# Cleaning & Assembly

### Cleaning

It is VERY IMPORTANT to rinse the boiler and inside of the column with hot tap water as soon as possible after you have finished using the still, as spent mash can become corrosive.

You can easily clean the inside of the column by just running hot tap water through it.

Turn it upside down under a tap and let water run into the column and out the top of the still.

If you do not clean it properly, then you may get blue liquid or crystals coming out the next time you use it. If this happens, perform a full [Citric Acid Bath](#citric-acid-bath)

You can clean the outside with any type of copper polish, vinegar or even steel wool. If looks don’t matter to you, then it is perfectly OK to let it stay the way it is. Copper naturally turns brown over time.

#### Acid/Vinegar Cleaning

The best way to clean a still after use is with a vinegar or acid wash. This is also recommended before first use.

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### Flush with Warm Water

Once assembled but not attached to the distillation lid, you can run plenty of clean, warm water through the still to help flush out manufacturing residue
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### Vinegar or Acid Run

After flushing, complete assembly of the still. Fill the boiler to around 20% full (the exact amount is not important as long as it is sufficient to ensure the elements do not boil dry). Us e a 50/50 mixture of plain vinegar (acetic acid) and water. Other acids can be used, although the dilution rates will be different. For example, 1 Tbp Citric acid to 1L water.

Connect the coolant lines but do not run any water yet.

Bring the acid wash up to a boil and maintain a boil with the minimum power required for at least 10-15 minutes. After this time turn on the coolant and run the still for a further 10 minutes. This will condense the vapour and help flush out the still

Turn off the water and the boiler and allow the still to cool completely. **Do not attempt to handle any part of the still or boiler until at a safe temperature.**
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### Water Run

Once the still and boiler is cool enough to handle, empty the boiler, rinse it out and fill the boiler to around 20% full (the exact amount is not important as long as it is sufficient to ensure the elements do not boil dry) with clean water. Bring this up to a boil and maintain a boil with the minimum power required for at least 10-15 minutes. After this time turn on the coolant and run the still for a further 10 minutes. This will condense the vapour and help flush out the still

Turn off the water and the boiler and allow the still to cool completely. **Do not attempt to handle any part of the still or boiler until at a safe temperature.**
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### Congratulations!

Your still is now clean and ready to use.
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***

#### Citric Acid Bath

If the still does not clean properly after a vonegar run, or if corrosion is noticed, or If you do not clean it properly, then you may get blue liquid or crystals coming out still head during a run. If this happens, get some[ Citric Acid](https://kegland.com.au/products/citric-acid-1kg?_pos=1&_sid=d9ea0c15c&_ss=r) from your homebrew store.

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### Mix Citric Acid Bath

Mix 2 tablespoons of Citric Acid with a litre of boiling water in a plastic container. Place the still head upside down inside a bucket, and pour the hot acid into the bottom of the still. Wear protective equipment, including heat proof gloves. When it has all run through the still, collect the acid and run it through again a few times, then rinse out the still head thoroughly with hot water.&#x20;
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### Neutralise with Bicarbonate Soda

Mix up a few teaspoons of Bicarbonate Soda (from the supermarket) in some water and pour this through the bottom of the still to neutralise any remaining acid, then rinse again with hot water. If you do not neutralise it with the Bicarbonate Soda, it will corrode again.
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### Congratulations!

Your still is now clean and ready to use.
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This process should be completed as needed to maintain your still in good order.

### Included Components

<figure><img src="/files/3foS2haYrRjTUtRZc4Fu" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

### Assembly Instructions

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### Check the included components

This reflux still should include all the components shown in the image above.
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### Assemble the Still carefully

The Alcoengine Still must be assembled before use. It's important that you assemble these components carefully. We recommend using Teflon tape on the threaded fittings to ensure a seal. NOTE: Both the 0.6mm and the 1mm Outlets will be attached to the Collection Tube and the Ball Valve as in this image.

<figure><img src="/files/5yX40pVgJKFFOMwvptg1" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>
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### Connect Reflux Still to Distillation Lid

If using a standard Distillation Lid with a 47mm hole, unscrew the brass nut on the still. Insert the threaded base of the still through the hole on the lid and use the brass nut to fasten the still head to the lid. The seal should be positioned outside the lid

<figure><img src="/files/W17McpqHzar3Bz6heHZD" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

If using a Distillation Lid with a 2" TC flange, you will also need a 2" TC Clamp. Remove the brass nut completely - it will not be used. Use the 2" TC Clamp to secure the Reflux Still to the lid. Use the flat seal that is included with the Reflux Still.

<figure><img src="/files/1TCo64hP4B1XJfGC4G1J" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>
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### Attach the Ball Valve

Use Teflon tape to cover the thread of the ball valve, then screw it into the side of the still body so that the valve handle is facing up. No need to use a spanner - finger tight is appropriate. Over-tightening may damage the thread.

<figure><img src="/files/ryha0ch2DIYHe6Q4Ygy8" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>
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### Attach the Flow Control Outlet

Next, get some Teflon tape and attach the Teflon tape to the thread of the flow control device. Then screw this into the ball valve as shown above
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### Choose the Flow Control Outlet

As shown below, there are two Outlets included with the AlcoEngine Reflux Still. These operate as Flow Control devices for the still.

There is a 1mm Outlet and a 0.6mm Outlet

The hole size dictates the speed at which the spirit flows out of the still. The faster the flow, the quicker the run but the lower the purity. The 0.6mm Outlet is recommended for highest purity, but the run will take longer. The 1mm Outlet will give lower purity but will be faster. The 1mm Outlet is also commonly used for stripping runs

<figure><img src="/files/VPU1tgm42EKAJN0r4zwZ" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

The different flow control outlets are marked discretely with a small punch on the side of the device but if you have good eyesight you can probably see the difference in hole size with your naked eyes.
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### Attach the collection tube

Lastly, attach the collection tube with the olive fitting. Tighten up this fitting onto the Flow Control Outlet and tighten carefully with a spanner/shifter. Do not over-tighten as it is easy to damage the soft brass fittings.
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### Keep the breather hole unobstructed

Please note it is important that the breather hole is unobstructed and is also facing **UPWARD**.

<p align="center"><img src="/files/wio6suvH5fIAaUOJek5m" alt=""></p>

The breather hole is so unwanted sulphide smells escape to the atmosphere.
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### Insert the Thermometer

Insert the thermometer into the thermowell. There may be some resistance - it is OK to use a small amount of pressure to push past this. The probe will go approximately 50mm deep

<figure><img src="/files/8MrZ3G1RfQwF57ohb7bV" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>
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### Congratulations! The AlcoEngine Reflux Still is now assembled!

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