# Troubleshooting ### Beer is not pouring or not pouring well | Problem | Possible Cause & Solution | | ---------------------------------- | --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | **Pouring too quickly** | **Beer Line may be too short**. Please refer to [this chart ](#beer-line-length-guide)for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter | | | **CO2 pressure may be too high.** Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this [Carbonation Chart](#carbonation-chart) for more info | | | **Beer may be over-carbonated.** The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Refer to [this guide ](#how-to-fix-an-over-carbonated-keg)to fix over-carbonated beer | | **Pouring too slowly** | **CO2 pressure may be too low.** Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this [Carbonation Chart](#carbonation-chart) for more info | | | **Beer Line may be too long**. Please refer to[ this chart](#beer-line-length-guide) for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter | | | **Beer may not be fully carbonated**. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved. | | **Beer is too foamy/frothy** | **Beer may be over-carbonated.** The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Typically most beers in a short draw system are served at approx. 10-12psi. Refer to [this guide ](#how-to-fix-an-over-carbonated-keg)to fix over-carbonated beer | | | **Beer Line may be too short**. Please refer to [this chart ](#beer-line-length-guide)for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter | | | **The beer lines may be frozen.** If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can partially freeze the beer in the line. This creates turbulence in the line which can cause excess foam. Ensure the beer lines are not in contact with the cold plate. | | | **Beer may be too warm.** Increase the Set Point of the kegerator or leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled | | **Beer does not have enough head** | **Beer may not be fully carbonated**. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved. Please refer to this [Carbonation Chart](#carbonation-chart) for more info | | | **Beer Line may be too long**. Please refer to[ this chart](#beer-line-length-guide) for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter | | | **Beer may be too cold.**[ Increase the Set Point of the kegerator](https://docs.kegland.com.au/products/kegging-equipment/operation#adjusting-the-set-point-temperature) | | | **(Homebrew) Beer may not have much head.** Not all beer styles produce a lot of head - this may be due to the grist of the particular brew or possibly a brewing technique affected the head | | **No beer comes out of tap** | **Lines or connections may be blocked.** If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the PRV. Remove the liquid post with a socket or spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post | | | **The beer lines may be frozen.** If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can freeze the beer in the line and partially or completely block the flow. Ensure the lines do not come into contact with the cold plate | | | **CO2 cylinder may be empty.** If there is insufficient CO2 to pressurise the head space of the keg then beer will not pour. Replace or refill the CO2 cylinder if empty | | | **Keg may be frozen.** If the Set Point is too low or there is an issue with the temp probe calibration, the keg(s) may freeze. Check and correct the [calibration ](https://docs.kegland.com.au/products/kegging-equipment/operation#temperature-calibration)and Set Point of the kegerator | | **Beer is too warm** | **Kegerator may not be cold enough.** Check and [adjust the Set Point](https://docs.kegland.com.au/products/kegging-equipment/operation#adjusting-the-set-point-temperature) of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour | | | **Keg may not be cold enough.** Leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled. This can take up to 24 hours (for example) with a room temperature 50L keg | | | **Kegerator may need calibrating.** Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform[ Offset Calibration](https://docs.kegland.com.au/products/kegging-equipment/operation#to-adjust-the-offset) to ensure the correct temperature is maintained | | | **Font not cool enough.** Direct the Font Fan tubing to the top of the font. Cut the Font Fan tubing to the correct length. Cut the tubing at a 45° angle to ensure it remains unobstructed. Ensure the fan is turned on | ### Gas Issues & Gas Leaks | Problem | Possible Cause & Solution | | ------------------------- | --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | **CO2 Cylinder is empty** | **Cylinder may be used up.** It takes approx 6g of CO2 to dispense 1L of beer at normal serving pressure. Thus, a 2.6kg CO2 cylinder will dispense approx. 8 x 50L kegs. More CO2 will be used if also carbonating the kegs. Refill the CO2 cylinder when empty | | | **Possible Gas Leak.** Perform an [Isolation Test](https://docs.kegland.com.au/products/kegging-equipment/leak-and-pressure-testing#isolation-test) to check for potential CO2 leaks | ### Kegerator cooling issues | Problem | Possible Cause and Solution | | -------------------------------------------------- | ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | **Kegerator not cooling to set point temperature** | **Insufficient clearance.** A minimum of 100mm clearance is required on each side of the kegerator to ensure adequate heat dissipation for the condensers. Move the kegerator into open space to improve cooling efficiency | | | **Ice build up.** If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. **Note**: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty | | | **Door left open/not closed properly.** If the door is not properly closed or misaligned the kegerator may not cool adequately. Ensure the door is closed and aligned properly | | | **Not calibrated properly.** If the kegerator is not cooling adequately but the compressor is cycling at the Set Point temperature the kegerator may require [Calibration](https://docs.kegland.com.au/products/kegging-equipment/operation#temperature-calibration). | | | **Hot environment.** If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system | | **Kegerator is too cold** | **Kegerator may need calibrating.** Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform [Offset Calibration](https://docs.kegland.com.au/products/kegging-equipment/operation#temperature-calibration) to ensure the correct temperature is maintained | | | **Set Point temperature may be incorrect.** [Check the Set Point temperature](https://docs.kegland.com.au/products/kegging-equipment/operation#adjusting-the-set-point-temperature). For best results set this to 2°C. Setting too low a temperature may cause freezing or performance issues | ### General Troubleshooting | Problem | Possible Cause & Solution | | ----------------------------------------- | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | **Sides of kegerator are extremely warm** | **This is normal.** The heat generated during refrigerant cooling is radiated from the left and right hand side of the kegerator. During normal operation these can get quite warm/hot. This is typically more apparent when the kegerator is cooling from ambient (so the compressor will be working harder and for longer). **NOTE: It is vital that this unit has a minimum of 100mm clearance on each side for adequate cooling performance** | | **Cannot adjust Set Point Temperature** | **Child Lock engaged.** These have a built in Child Lock. [To adjust the Set Point temperature](https://docs.kegland.com.au/products/kegging-equipment/operation#adjusting-the-set-point-temperature), press and hold the Warmer button for 5 seconds until the display flashes (the displayed number is the current Set Point) | | **Excessive noise from fan** | **Ice build up.** If there is visible ice build up there is likely also ice in the fan housing. The fan lades will hit this when spinning causing excessive noise. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. **Note**: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty | | **Black substance under cold plate** | **This is excess insulation.** This is not uncommon in new kegerators after use. Excess foam insulation may drip from behind the cold plate. This is normal and nothing to worry about - simply clean with a damp microfibre cloth. | | | **Loose wiring.** It is possible for the lead to the fan to become slightly loose and contact the blades causing noise. Remove the fan housing and reposition the wire to prevent it from contacting the blades | | **No castor wheel screws** | **These are pre-installed.** The castor wheel screws are installed in the underneath of the kegerator and simply need to be unscrewed with a 5/16" socket or wrench, or Philips driver | | **Ice build up on cold plate** | **Moisture or humidity ingress.** If the door is left open or the seals are damaged or dirty then ice can build up on the cold plate. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. **Note**: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty | | **EE Error** | **This is an electrical fault.** This can be caused by a faulty Temperature Probe (Thermistor) or a loose connection or damaged or faulty connection. Try replacing the Temperature Probe. Inspect the board for loose or damaged connections | | **Front display flashing** | **Board Failure.** This can indicate a failure of the front [LCD Temperature Control board](https://kegland.com.au/products/series-4-x-x-plus-replacement-temperature-control-circuit-board-with-plastic-frame) or the [Main Circuit Board](http://kegland.com.au/products/series-4-x-x-plus-replacement-main-circuit-board). Both boards are designed for easy replacement | | **No power to kegerator** | **The circuit may have tripped.** Check that the beaker has not tripped. If it has, remove all other appliances form the circuit, reset the breaker and try again | | | **Board failure.** This can indicate a failure of the front [LCD Temperature Control board](https://kegland.com.au/products/series-4-x-x-plus-replacement-temperature-control-circuit-board-with-plastic-frame) or the [Main Circuit Board](http://kegland.com.au/products/series-4-x-x-plus-replacement-main-circuit-board). Both boards are designed for easy replacement | | **Water is leaking from kegerator** | **Melted ice build up.** If there is too much water, moisture or humidity ingress in the kegerator, the ice build up can overwhelm the evaporator plate at the rear of the kegerator. Defrost the kegerator (if necessary) by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. **Note**: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty | ### Kegerator Noise Kegerators are not domestic fridges and thus will make noises that are quite different to a standard domestic fridge. A gurgling or similar noise is quite common, and not considered unusual. The kegerators use a highly efficient refrigerant gas which can sound like gurgling. This is often more noticeable when the fridge is empty or the kegerator is brand new. Any noises are often reduced once the kegerator is filled with kegs due to the large thermal mass of the kegs. Refrigerant noise is often more noticeable in a new kegerator, as it can take time for the coolant to settle. To avoid excessive refrigerant noise, it is vital to leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least 24 hours after transit. In addition, if tipping the kegerator over (to install castors, for example) the kegerator must be tipped towards the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues. Leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least one hour before switching on after installing castors or tipping the kegerator for any other reason. If the fan is making excessive noise refer to[ General Troubleshooting](#general-troubleshooting) ### Beer Line Length Guide | Internal Line DIameter | Suggested Beer Line Length | | ---------------------- | -------------------------- | | 4mm | 1.5 metres – 2 metres | | 5mm | 2 metres – 3 metres | | 6.35mm | 3 metres – 4 metres | ### How To Fix An Over Carbonated Keg If your beer is foaming after checking CO2 pressure, beer line length and kegerator temperature, then possibly the beer is over-carbonated. If this is the gas, then the carbonation level of the beer in the keg will need to be reduced in order to get a good pour. #### 19L Corny Keg 19L Cornelius Kegs have a PRV (Pressure Relief Valve) which makes releasing excess pressure quite easy. TO fix an over-carbonated 19L keg (or any homebrew keg with a PRV such as a [20L OXEBAR keg](https://kegland.com.au/products/oxebar-20l-amber-pet-keg-pressure-fermenter-tank)) follow these steps: 1. Disconnect the gas line to the keg 2. Pull the PRV to vent all headspace pressure 3. Wait a couple of hours and then repeat. DO not reconnect the gas line until the desired carbonation level has dropped This process can be sped up if the keg is removed from the kegerator and allowed to come to room temperature - CO2 will come out of solution faster at room temperatures. You can also vent the PRV, then close the PRV and shake the keg for 30 seconds, then vent it again. This will help force CO2 out of solution. Please note that this can cause beer or foam to spray from the PRV when venting, so proceed with caution. #### Commercial Keg Commercial kegs such as 20L, 30L or 50L kegs which are connected to the beer and gas lines by a coupler do not have a PRV, so it is a bit trickier to vent excess carbonation. If the beer is only slightly over carbonated, the easiest way to reduce carbonation is to turn off the CO2 cylinder valve and pour beer as normal. CO2 will come out of solution as the headspace pressure is purged. This will take a while however, depending on the level of over-carbonation. To speed this up, remove the keg from the kegerator to allow it to come to room temperature. CO2 will come out of solution faster when the beer is warm. ### Carbonation Chart This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

KegLand Carbonation Chart