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Product Documentation

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Regulators & Gas Tanks

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Kegging Equipment

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Fermentation Equipment

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Super Slim Font Kits

Series X Plus User Guide | Super Slim Font Kits

Modular Fonts

Series X Plus User Guide | Modular Font Kits

Single, Double and Triple Font Kits

Series 4 User Guide | Single, Double & Triple Font Kit Assembly

Product Documentation

KegLand Product Documentation | User Manuals | Guides

Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator | User Guide

KL15868 Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator | User Guide

The All-New Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator brought to you by KegLand is the most versatile mini regulator on the market. After much feedback on how to make mini regulators more compact, sturdy and efficient, the brilliant engineers at KegLand have come up with this mini-beast. This extremely versatile mini regulator can be used with either an Australian Sodastream Canister, the KegLand Sodastream Compatible Cylinders or the smaller disposable CO2 16g bulbs. If you would like to use the larger 74g disposable bulbs you can purchase the 74g bulb adaptor.

The Mini 360 also doubles as the perfect regulator for a Nitro setup! Just add the Mini 360 Nitrogen Adapter and one of our 2.2L Disposable N2 cylinders, slap a Stout Spout on your SS Nukatap and you are good to go!

Unlike other regulator designs this new design requires no sodastream adaptor and you do not have the issues of trying to screw the bulb or sodastream cylinder into the regulator while gas leaks everywhere. This robust, convenient and superior design is just what you need for any portable keg system.

Installation Diagrams

Series X User Guide | Installation Diagrams

Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams

Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams (Ball Lock Posts & Disconnects)

Single Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Double Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Triple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Quadruple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Installation Diagrams

Series X Plus User Guide | Installation Diagrams

Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams

Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams (Ball Lock Posts & Disconnects)

Single Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Double Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Triple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Quadruple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Installation Diagrams

Series 4 User Guide | Installation Diagrams

Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams

Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams (Ball Lock Posts & Disconnects)

Single Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Double Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Triple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | User Guide

KL41652 KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Quick Start Guide

The KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator is designed to be installed snugly into a standard 600mm kitchen cavity.

Unlike most other kegerator models, this is custom designed to not require any space around it for ventilation, so can be installed completely flush into your cavity, for a smooth, entirly modern look!

This particular Kegerator uses a multitude of fans to suck and blow air to the front of the Kegerator allowing it to squeeze into the tightest of spaces.

KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator

To purchase a complete kegerator setup, custom configured with anywhere from 1 to 4 taps please use the Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator Homebrew Bar Kit Configurable Builder

Installation Diagrams

KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Installation Diagrams

Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams

Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams (Ball Lock Posts & Disconnects)

Single Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Double Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Triple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Quadruple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Grand Deluxe 3 | User Guide

KL08877 | KL08891 | KL32605 | KL32612 | Grand Deluxe 3 | Quick Start Guide

The Grand Deluxe 3 models are made and built tough for a commercial environment for your use in the man cave or small bar/cafe.

The two door Grand Deluxe 3 model can hold:

12 x 19L Cornelius Ball Lock Kegs OR 3 x 50L DIN type Kegs

or a mix and match of both to your liking. The three door Grand Deluxe 3 model can hold:

20 x 19L Cornelius Ball Lock Kegs OR 5 x 50L DIN type Kegs

or a mix and match of both to your liking.

The Grand Deluxe 3 range of commercial kegerators are Climate Class 4 rated, with 304 Stainless Steel Countertops with thick core foam to aid in temperature loss from your refrigerator. They have double glazed tempered safety glass with self-closing lockable doors as standard, and inbuilt countersunk stainless drip tray system with drainage tubes fitted.

Installation Diagrams

Grand Deluxe 3 | Installation Diagrams

Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams

Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams (Ball Lock Posts & Disconnects)

Single Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Double Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Triple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Quadruple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Filling Guide

An indepth guide of how to fill your product into Talos Kegs by KegLand

Series X | User Guide

KL15080 Series X User Guide | User Manual

Designed to be the most cost effective, efficient and reliable kegerator on the market. Rated to Climate Class T so it can handle Australian weather. Compact, but can easily hold 1 x 50L commercial keg or up to 4 x 19L corny kegs!

Compared to the KegLand Series 4, the Series X is:

  • 10% more power efficient

  • 15% faster cooling and better cooling in hotter climates

Warning & Components

KL15868 Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator | Warning & Components

When attaching or disconnecting the regulator to or from a Sodastream or Sodastream compatible cylinder, always hold the neck of the cylinder with a spanner to prevent the cylinder valve from unscrewing

CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space

Always perform a leak test prior to use. Failure to do so may result in a leak occuring and the CO2 cylinder or bulb emptying

Do not submerge the regulator in liquid at any time

Ensure the regulator is set to an equal or higher pressure than the keg to prevent liquid ingress. If liquid enters the regulator it can result in the regulator being damaged

Do not overtighten the CO2 cylinder or Co2 bulb onto the regulator

Keg Types

Series X User Guide | Different Keg Types

When setting up a kegerator system at home, it is important to understand the differences between the two main types of keg on the market.

The different kegs require different gas and beer line fittings inside the kegerator. Other components of the kegerator (taps, font etc) are interchangeable. The way in which the beer line and gas line is attached to the keg is the main point of difference.

We divide kegerators into two types: setups and setups. Kegs in both types are available in multiple sizes.

It is possible to mix and match keg styles in the one kegerator, provided the kegs are small enough to fit. Simply use the correct connection (coupler or ball lock disconnects) on ach beer and gas line to allow this.

For example, you may wish to have a on tap, as well as in a 19L keg. In that case, one beer/gas line would be terminated with an A Type Coupler, and the other would have a gas and a liquid ball lock disconnect.

Series X Plus | User Guide

KL19880 Series X Plus User Guide | User Manual

The Series X Plus is the best and most cost effective solution to dispense up to 2 x 50L kegs at one time!

Designed to be the most cost effective, efficient and reliable kegerator on the market. Rated to Climate Class T so it can handle Australian weather. Compact, but can easily hold 2 x 50L commercial keg or up to 8 x 19L corny kegs!

Compared to the KegLand Series 4, the Series X range is:

  • 10% more power efficient

Keg Types

Series X Plus User Guide | Different Keg Types

When setting up a kegerator system at home, it is important to understand the differences between the two main types of keg on the market.

The different kegs require different gas and beer line fittings inside the kegerator. Other components of the kegerator (taps, font etc) are interchangeable. The way in which the beer line and gas line is attached to the keg is the main point of difference.

We divide kegerators into two types: setups and setups. Kegs in both types are available in multiple sizes.

It is possible to mix and match keg styles in the one kegerator, provided the kegs are small enough to fit. Simply use the correct connection (coupler or ball lock disconnects) on ach beer and gas line to allow this.

For example, you may wish to have a on tap, as well as in a 19L keg. In that case, one beer/gas line would be terminated with an A Type Coupler, and the other would have a gas and a liquid ball lock disconnect.

Series 4 | User Guide

KL00093 Series 4 User Guide | User Manual

The KegLand Series 4 is a super budget friendly kegerator designed primarily for single tap setups with a 50L commercial keg. It can also hold up to 3 x 19L Cornelius Kegs.

  • Climate Class: T (Tropical)

  • Refrigerant: R600a

Keg Types

Series 4 User Guide | Different Keg Types

When setting up a kegerator system at home, it is important to understand the differences between the two main types of keg on the market.

The different kegs require different gas and beer line fittings inside the kegerator. Other components of the kegerator (taps, font etc) are interchangeable. The way in which the beer line and gas line is attached to the keg is the main point of difference.

We divide kegerators into two types: setups and setups. Kegs in both types are available in multiple sizes.

It is possible to mix and match keg styles in the one kegerator, provided the kegs are small enough to fit. Simply use the correct connection (coupler or ball lock disconnects) on ach beer and gas line to allow this.

For example, you may wish to have a on tap, as well as in a 19L keg. In that case, one beer/gas line would be terminated with an A Type Coupler, and the other would have a gas and a liquid ball lock disconnect.

Font Kit Assembly

Series 4 User Guide | Font Kit Assembly

KegLand Kegerators can be configured with different font and tap options.

Depending on the kegerator, you can have from 1 - 8 taps, or possibly more with the Grand Deluxe range.

Fonts and taps can also have different configurations - you may chose standard , the black or possibly you need (if serving highly carbonated beverages, for example)

Fonts can be a standard tower configuration, a tee bar or a super slim tee bar type.

All KegLand Font Kits (as opposed to Font Only) include beer and gas line, shanks and duotight connectors (where necessary), standard black tap handles for NukaTaps and all required beer and gas line, as well as tee pieces to split the gas line as needed. A 7 in 1 tool for easy font and shank assembly is also required. The exact inclusions depend on the type of font and number of taps - please refer to the product page for the font kit for details.

Keg Types

KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Keg Types

When setting up a kegerator system at home, it is important to understand the differences between the two main types of keg on the market.

The different kegs require different gas and beer line fittings inside the kegerator. Other components of the kegerator (taps, font etc) are interchangeable. The way in which the beer line and gas line is attached to the keg is the main point of difference.

We divide kegerators into two types: setups and setups. Kegs in both types are available in multiple sizes.

It is possible to mix and match keg styles in the one kegerator, provided the kegs are small enough to fit. Simply use the correct connection (coupler or ball lock disconnects) on ach beer and gas line to allow this.

For example, you may wish to have a on tap, as well as in a 19L keg. In that case, one beer/gas line would be terminated with an A Type Coupler, and the other would have a gas and a liquid ball lock disconnect.

Guide to Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects

KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects

There are several types of Ball Lock keg available, including standard stainless and Cornelius Kegs, and also OXEBAR kegs in . If using Mini Kegs or 4L or 8L OXEBAR Kegs you will also need a ball lock tapping head.

To carbonate and dispense from a homebrew style keg you will need to use disconnects. These come in two different categories which are specific for ball-lock or pin-lock kegs. Balllock kegs require ball-lock disconnects and pin-lock kegs require pin-lock disconnects

Each keg requires a and a . Due to the design of the posts on the keg a liquid disconnect can only be used on the black liquid (OUT) post and a gas disconnect can only be used on the grey gas (IN) post.

Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689

Font Kit Assembly

KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Font Kit Assembly

KegLand Kegerators can be configured with different font and tap options.

Depending on the kegerator, you can have from 1 - 8 taps, or possibly more with the Grand Deluxe range.

Fonts and taps can also have different configurations - you may chose standard , the black or possibly you need (if serving highly carbonated beverages, for example)

Fonts can be a standard tower configuration, a tee bar or a super slim tee bar type.

All KegLand Font Kits (as opposed to Font Only) include beer and gas line, shanks and duotight connectors (where necessary), standard black tap handles for NukaTaps and all required beer and gas line, as well as tee pieces to split the gas line as needed. A 7 in 1 tool for easy font and shank assembly is also required. The exact inclusions depend on the type of font and number of taps - please refer to the product page for the font kit for details.

Single, Double and Triple Font Kits

KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Single, Double and Triple Font Kits

  1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

  2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator.

  3. Cut an approximately 1m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

Troubleshooting

Grand Deluxe 3 | Troubleshooting

  • Check that the pressure on the regulator is set to the correct PSI and that the keg is beer is not over carbonated. If the beer is over carbonated release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the pressure relief valve and then set the regulator to the correct PSI. Typically for most beers in a short draw system around 10-12psi will give a good pour

  • If the beer line is too short then it can pour with too much froth, consider increasing the length of your beer line. KL06224 4mm x 8mm EVABarrier will normally pour well at around 1.8-2m

Safety Information

Talos Keg | Safety Information

BEFORE CONNECTING THIS KEG, YOU MUST READ THE OPERATING MANUAL CAREFULLY. If any part of these instructions is unclear, stop immediately and contact KegLand Customer Support via email or phone for assistance.

  • Pressure Limitations: The maximum working pressure for this keg is 4.0 bar.

  • PRV Requirement: Before attaching a gas supply, you must have a pressure relief valve (PRV) installed on your regulator and/or keg coupler to prevent excessive pressure from entering the keg.

Dimensions - 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical

FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions

Connecting & Dispensing

Talos Keg | Learn how to hook up and dispense your beverage from a Talos Keg.

1

Remove the protective dust cap from the keg. Thoroughly spray the spear head and coupler with Super Kill Ethyl-Sanitiser Spray (KL05371) to ensure a sanitary connection.

2

Align and slide your dispensing coupler onto the sanitised spear head.

3

Engage the Keg

Firmly press the coupler handle downward until it clicks and locks into place to fully engage the keg and start the flow.

Sanitise the Spear Head

Align the Coupler

27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions

27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Tri Clover Lid

27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong

27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong + Butterfly Valve

27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions
27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Tri Clover Lid
27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong
27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong + Butterfly Valve

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Refrigerant Amount: 40g
  • Rated Current: 0.80A

  • Power: 85 Watts

  • Capacity: 163L

  • Voltage: 220-240V

  • Hz: 50-60Hz

  • 19L Ball Lock Kegs - Up to 3 9.5L Ball Lock Kegs - Up to 3 20L and 30L All Stainless Commercial Kegs - up to 2 x 20L kegs or 1 x 20L keg and 1 x 30L keg 50L Keg - 1

    Please Note: Heavy Duty Castor Wheels are not compatible with the Series 4 Kegerator Base Fridge with Regulator. Check out the Series X Kegerator for a unit which can be optionally installed with Heavy Duty Castor wheels.

    • 600mm wide

    • 640mm deep

    • 840mm high

    • 890mm high with castors (fridge component only, not including font, guard rail or drip tray)

    Specifications

    How Many Kegs Can Fit In A Series 4 Kegerator?

    Dimensions

    Approved Options: The KegLand KL09164 (Green) or KegLand KL05333 (Red) PRVs are both acceptable safety measures. And the A-Type Talos Filling Coupler SS KL35194 has a pressure release valve installed.

  • Single Use Only: Do NOT reuse the keg. This product is strictly designed for single-use applications.

  • Integrity Check: If there is any visible leakage on the inner bag, do not use the keg.

  • Sharp Objects: Keep sharp blades & objects away from the keg whilst pressurised.

    • Orientation: Once filled, always keep the keg in an upright position. Do NOT roll the keg.

    • Transport: Keep the ambient temperature under 40°C (104°F) during transportation. Do NOT transport underfilled.

    • Storage Temperature: Store the keg indoors under 25°C (77F). Avoid direct sunlight and prolonged exposure to heat.

    • Stacking Limit: Once the kegs have been filled, do NOT stack them more than 2 layers high.

    • Material Degradation: Do NOT let aggressive alkaline, caustic, or oxidising substances come into contact with the PET keg.

    • Risk of Failure: Exposure to these chemicals can cause the plastic to become brittle, leading to structural failure, potential bursting, and severe physical harm or injury.

    ⚠️ ATTENTION

    CRITICAL SAFETY WARNINGS

    STORAGE & TRANSPORTATION

    CHEMICAL EXPOSURE WARNING

    40% Thicker Side Walls for reduced heat ingress

  • 15% More Energy Efficient

  • 30% Larger Evaporator

  • 25% Larger Condenser

  • 15% Faster Cooling

  • Larger Font Fan

  • Larger, improved compressor

  • Internal LED light (Series X.1 and later)

  • 2x KL10788 Carbonation Cap gas bulkhead threads as standard

  • FITS 4 UP TO 4 CORNY KEGS

    • Climate Class: T (Tropical)

    • Refrigerant: R600a

    • Rated Current: 0.80A

    • Power: 85 Watts

    • Capacity: 187L

    • Voltage: 220-240V

    • Hz: 50Hz

    • 600mm wide

    • 640mm deep

    • 840mm high

    • 890mm high with castors (fridge component only, not including font, guard rail or drip tray

    Dimensioned drawings available here

    Specifications

    Dimensions

    Regularly lubricate the thumb screw assembly, especially if the regulator is used in a cold environment

    NOTE: Output 1 and Output 2 are identical. The duotight compatible barb and the FFL fitting can be used in either outlet as desired, allowing you to change the orientation of the regulator to suit.

    NOTE: It is essential to lubricate the thumb screw shaft regularly and prior to first use.

    It is highly recommended to lubricate the thumbscrew before use and at regular intervals to maintain performance. This will assist with ease of operation and is important as a maintenance step if the Mini 360 Regulator is used in adverse environments (such as inside a kegerator or fridge)

    Food grade lube such as Mini Haynes Food Grade Lube 28g is ideal.

    1. Disconnect the regulator from the pressure source

    2. Turn the thumb screw all the way anti-clockwise so it’s out as far as it will go

    3. Apply food grade lubricant to the thread or shaft of the thumb screw as shown below. Rotate the thumb screw in both directions to spread the lubricant over the thumb screw components

    NOTE: It is completely normal for the thumb screw to be tight when under pressure

    When the regulator has a cylinder attached and is under pressure the thumb screw will be more difficult to turn but with moderate force it still will move. When the pressure is released it will become easier to turn.

    1. Undo the flathead grub screw holding the output end cap in position and remove the output end cap

    1. Insert the output end cap into the unused output and tighten firmly using the grub screw

    2. Insert the required fitting into the output required to be used and tighten firmly using the grub screw

    3. If required (IE if the other output will not be used) insert the end cap into the unused output and tighten the grub screw to hold it in place

    As standard, the Mini 360 Regulator includes a 0-60psi - Mini gauge 27mm x 27mm x 8mm Radial Stem

    If desired, this can be swapped for similar gauges with different ranges:

    • KL14984 Mini Gauge 27mm x 27mm x 8mm Radial Stem 0-15 PSI

    • KL14991 Mini Gauge 27mm x 27mm x 8mm Radial Stem 0-30 PSI

    • KL15011 Mini Gauge 27mm x 27mm x 8mm Radial Stem 0-150 PSI

    Another all purpose option is the KL18388 High Accuracy Mini Digital Illuminated Gauge 27mm x 27mm x 8mm 0-90psi

    To swap the installed Mini Gauge:

    1. Unscrew the two socket head cap screws which hold the mini gauge cover in position and remove the mini gauge cover

    1. Carefully pull out the gauge. A small allen key or similar can be used as a lever in the screew sockets, or hold the face plate (be careful to not bend it)

    2. Once removed, install the replacement gauge in the desired orientation and fasten in place with the screws

    The Mini 360 Regulator comes with a green 65psi PRV (Pressure Relief Valve). If desired this can be swapped for a different PRV (for example, if you wish to regulate pressures higher than 60psi)

    Available PRVs include:

    • KL22569 PRV (YELLOW 17psi / 1.2BAR)

    • KL05333 PRV (RED 35psi / 2.5BAR)

    • KL03070 PRV (GREY 100psi / 7BAR)

    • KL09164 PRV (GREEN 65psi / 4.5BAR) - this is pre-installed

    To replace the PRV, simply unscrew the installed PRV (anticlockwise) and thread the replacement into position, ensuring it is snug.

    Warning - Important Information

    Regulator Components

    Lubricating Thumb Screw

    How To Swap Outputs

    Swapping the Mini Gauge

    Replacing the PRV

    Choose the type of connector used to see how to set each gas line up

    Different Keg Types

    Commercial (Brewery Made) Kegerator
    Homebrew Kegerator
    TALOS keg of craft beer
    on demand soda water
    15% faster cooling and better cooling in hotter climates
  • 40% Thicker Side Walls for reduced heat ingress

  • 15% More Energy Efficient

  • 30% Larger Evaporator

  • 25% Larger Condenser

  • 15% Faster Cooling

  • Larger Font Fan

  • Larger, improved compressor

  • 2x KL10788 Carbonation Cap gas bulkhead fittings as standard

  • FITS UP TO 8 CORNY KEGS or 2 x 50L COMMERCIAL KEGS

    • Climate Class: T (Tropical)

    • Refrigerant: R600a

    • Rated Current: 0.90A

    • Power: 100 Watts

    • Capacity: 310L

    • Voltage: 220-240V

    • Hz: 50Hz

    • 900mm wide

    • 708mm deep

    • 840mm high

    • 890mm high with castors (fridge component only, not including font, guard rail or drip tray

    Dimensioned drawings available here

    Specifications

    Dimensions

    Choose the type of connector used to see how to set each gas line up

    Different Keg Types

    Commercial (Brewery Made) Kegerator
    Homebrew Kegerator
    TALOS keg of craft beer
    on demand soda water
    Choose the type of connector used to see how to set each gas line up

    Different Keg Types

    Commercial (Brewery Made) Kegerator
    Homebrew Kegerator
    TALOS keg of craft beer
    on demand soda water
    Please refer to the guide below for the selected font kit assembly

    Single Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit

    Double Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit

    Triple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit

    Single Tap Black Phantom Font Kit

    Double Tap Black Phantom Font Kit

    Triple Tap Black Phantom Font Kit

    stainless NukaTaps
    Stealth Bomber NukaTaps
    Flow Control NukaTaps

    Compatible font options include:

    Choose the type of connector used to see how to set each gas line up

    Different Keg Types

    Commercial (Brewery Made) Kegerator
    Homebrew Kegerator
    TALOS keg of craft beer
    on demand soda water
    If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.

    Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.

    Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.

    To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.

    While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.

    Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.

    Using a 7 in 1 tool to remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting

    Inserting EVABarrier hose into duotight fittings

    19L
    9.5L
    stainless Mini Kegs
    20L, 8L and 4L sizes
    liquid disconnect (black)
    gas disconnect (grey)
    Tube Cutter
    Ball Lock fittings | Cornelius Kegs

    Removing EVABarrier Hose from duotight fittings

    Please refer to the guide below for the selected font kit assembly

    Single Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit

    Double Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit

    Triple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit

    Quadruple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit

    Single Tap Black Phantom Font Kit

    Double Tap Black Phantom Font Kit

    Triple Tap Black Phantom Font Kit

    Quadruple Tap Black Phantom Font Kit

    4 Tap T-Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kit

    stainless NukaTaps
    Stealth Bomber NukaTaps
    Flow Control NukaTaps

    Compatible font options include:

    Cut this section into approx 2 x 50cm lengths

  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

  • Double Gas Line Configuration
    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the MK4 or MK5 regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator.

    3. Cut an approximately 1.5m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    4. Cut this section into approx 3 x 50cm lengths

    5. Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

    6. Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for beer or for

    7. Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the MK4 or MK5 regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator.

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    4. Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths

    5. Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

    6. Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for beer or for

    7. Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

    MK4
    MK5

    Triple Font

    Quad Font

    If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To check for and fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the pressure relief valve. Remove the liquid post using the correct sized wrench/spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post
    • If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube(s) from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system

    • Place a jug of water in the fridge and measure the temperature of the water after 12 hours in the fridge to determine if the thermostat is reading the correct temperature. If this needs to be adjusted please refer to Temperature Calibration

    • Inspect inside the fan housing for ice build up. If there is visible ice build up run a manual defrost cycle by pressing theManual Defrost Button for more than 2 seconds to start a defrost cycle manually. The Grand Deluxe range are commercial kegerators with very powerful compressors. It is quite common to need to manually adjust the default Defrost Interval and Length settings to suit the conditions. Periodically inspect inside the compressor housing for ice build up and increase the duration cycle of the Defrost as required to prevent ice build up.

    Beer is too frothy or no beer pours when the tap is opened

    Kegerator is not cooling to the set temperature

    Quick Start Guide

    Series X User Guide | Quick Start Guide

    IMPORTANT SETUP INFORMATION

    If kegerator has been moved/delivered do not turn it on unless it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours. Failure to do this will void warranty and may damage the kegerator. Leave the kegerator upright for at least 24 hours before plugging in mains power after receiving and unboxing

    Only tip kegerator onto right hand side (as seen from the front), when installing castors etc. Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues

    CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space

    Never exceed 40psi in your keg system

    Always flush chemicals from the beer line completely before tapping keg

    Always check for gas leaks once the kegerator is set up

    Ensure there is at least 100mm clearance on each side of the kegerator after installation. Failure to allow adequate clearance will impact cooling performance and void warranty

    Please refer to this video for a detailed guide to setting up a kegerator.

    For detailed, step by step instructions, read on!

    Guide to Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects

    Series X User Guide | Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects

    Cornelius (Homebrew) Kegs

    There are two different styles of Cornelius kegs: Ball Lock and Pin Lock. Pin Lock kegs are not really in common use now. Any Cornelius style kegs purchased from KegLand will have Ball Lock fittings.

    Ball Lock fittings can be identified by the posts on the keg or tapping head and require the use of Ball Lock Disconnects:

    Ball Lock fittings | Cornelius Kegs

    There are several types of Ball Lock keg available, including standard stainless 19L and 9.5L Cornelius Kegs, stainless Mini Kegs and also OXEBAR kegs in 20L, 8L and 4L sizes. If using Mini Kegs or 4L or 8L OXEBAR Kegs you will also need a ball lock tapping head.

    To carbonate and dispense from a homebrew style keg you will need to use disconnects. These come in two different categories which are specific for ball-lock or pin-lock kegs. Balllock kegs require ball-lock disconnects and pin-lock kegs require pin-lock disconnects

    Each keg requires a liquid disconnect (black) and a gas disconnect (grey). Due to the design of the posts on the keg a liquid disconnect can only be used on the black liquid (OUT) post and a gas disconnect can only be used on the grey gas (IN) post.

    Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689

    If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.

    Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.

    Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.

    To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.

    While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.

    Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.

    Maintenance

    KL15868 Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator | Maintenance

    Pressure Creep | Seat and Seat Cap Assembly Replacement

    All regulators contain parts that are susceptible to ingress of contamination. Although the Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator is made from high quality components and assembled in a clean environment it’s possible that throughout its life that some contamination can get into the regulator (normally through the inlet side).

    For example, if a keg is completely full and at a higher pressure than the regulator is set to, then beer can enter the regulator through the outlet when the keg is connected. Always pulling the PRV of the keg to release headspace pressure will help prevent this from happening and is best practice whenever a CO2 Cylinder and regulator is connected to a keg.

    If this contamination is able to get past the integrated sintered filter you may get “pressure creep”. Pressure creep is when contamination or something else has got into the seat and seat cap assembly and the flow of gas doesn’t stop even when the set pressure is reached.

    This will often be noticed if the needle on the pressure gauge continues to rise until the pressure relief valve opens and pressure is released. If this happens repeatedly then it’s likely you will need to perform this maintenance process.

    NOTE: The seat and seat cap assembly is the same part used inside the KegLand MK4 Regulator and is interchangeable. The required part is KL15646

    1. With a small screw driver remove the two grub screws on both sides of the regulator knob

    1. Once these grub screws have been removed the regulator black knob can be completely undone and removed as shown below

    1. Using a set of needle nose pliers remove the piston diaphragm

    1. With a 16mm or 5/8” socket set remove the seat and seat cap assembly. Please ensure the black o-ring comes out with this assembly. If the o-ring doesn’t come out at the same time you may have to remove the o-ring separately with a pointy object or pick tool.

    Replace the brass seat and seat cap assembly with a new one. Ensure that you adequately tighten this seat cap assembly and then re-assemble the regulator in the reverse order.

    If for some reason you get gas leaking from the base of the thumb screw it’s possible that you have blown the o-ring on the thumb screw shaft. To replace this o-ring follow the steps below

    1. Follow the steps 1-4 above for

    2. Once the seat and seat cap has been removed in step 4 the thumb screw can be completely removed. Simply unscrew in the anti-clockwise direction

    1. Inspect the o-ring in the image above and replace if necessary

    2. Re-assemble the regulator in the same sequence as you took the components apart.

    It is highly recommended to lubricate the thumbscrew before use and at regular intervals to maintain performance. This will assist with ease of operation and is important as a maintenance step if the Mini 360 Regulator is used in adverse environments (such as inside a kegerator or fridge)

    Food grade lube such as is ideal.

    1. Disconnect the regulator from the pressure source

    2. Turn the thumb screw all the way anti-clockwise so it’s out as far as it will go

    3. Apply food grade lubricant to the thread or shaft of the thumb screw as shown below. Rotate the thumb screw in both directions to spread the lubricant over the thumb screw components

    NOTE: It is completely normal for the thumb screw to be tight when under pressure

    When the regulator has a cylinder attached and is under pressure the thumb screw will be more difficult to turn but with moderate force it still will move. When the pressure is released it will become easier to turn.

    Tee Bar Font Kits

    Series X User Guide | Tee Bar Font Kits

    Tee Bar Fonts

    1. Remove the caps from the end of the fonts and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks

    2. NOTE: Install shanks from the middle of the font outwards

    3. Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to

    4. Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    5. Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font. Angling the shank off to the side slightly is generally easiest

    6. Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

    7. Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.

    8. Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

    9. Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

    10. Using the included M5 x 30mm bolts, mount the font onto the kegerator after feeding the lines through into the kegerator

    11. Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a or

    12. Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

    13. Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    Quad Font Kits

    Series X User Guide | Quad Font Kit Assembly

    Quadruple Tap Font Kits

    1. Remove the cap from the top of the font and attach the font to the top of the kegerator using four metric M5 stainless steel screws. The mounting points can be found on the inside of the font and can be attached using a long screwdriver, bit extender or flexible drill bit

    2. Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

    3. Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    4. Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font

    5. Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

    6. Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.

    7. Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

    8. Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

    9. Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a or

    10. Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

    11. Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

    12. NOTE: It is easiest to attach the shanks in the order below:

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    Guide to Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects

    Series X Plus User Guide | Cornelius Kegs

    Cornelius (Homebrew) Kegs

    There are two different styles of Cornelius kegs: Ball Lock and Pin Lock. Pin Lock kegs are not really in common use now. Any Cornelius style kegs purchased from KegLand will have Ball Lock fittings.

    Ball Lock fittings can be identified by the posts on the keg or tapping head and require the use of Ball Lock Disconnects:

    Ball Lock fittings | Cornelius Kegs

    There are several types of Ball Lock keg available, including standard stainless 19L and 9.5L Cornelius Kegs, stainless Mini Kegs and also OXEBAR kegs in 20L, 8L and 4L sizes. If using Mini Kegs or 4L or 8L OXEBAR Kegs you will also need a ball lock tapping head.

    To carbonate and dispense from a homebrew style keg you will need to use disconnects. These come in two different categories which are specific for ball-lock or pin-lock kegs. Balllock kegs require ball-lock disconnects and pin-lock kegs require pin-lock disconnects

    Each keg requires a liquid disconnect (black) and a gas disconnect (grey). Due to the design of the posts on the keg a liquid disconnect can only be used on the black liquid (OUT) post and a gas disconnect can only be used on the grey gas (IN) post.

    Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689

    If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.

    Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.

    Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.

    To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.

    While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.

    Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.

    Font Kit Assembly

    Series X Plus User Guide | Font KIt Assembly

    KegLand Kegerators can be configured with different font and tap options.

    Depending on the kegerator, you can have from 1 - 8 taps, or possibly more with the Grand Deluxe range.

    Fonts and taps can also have different configurations - you may chose standard stainless NukaTaps, the black Stealth Bomber NukaTaps or possibly you need Flow Control NukaTaps (if serving highly carbonated beverages, for example)

    Fonts can be a standard tower configuration, a tee bar or a super slim tee bar type.

    All KegLand Font Kits (as opposed to Font Only) include beer and gas line, shanks and duotight connectors (where necessary), standard black tap handles for NukaTaps and all required beer and gas line, as well as tee pieces to split the gas line as needed. A 7 in 1 tool for easy font and shank assembly is also required. The exact inclusions depend on the type of font and number of taps - please refer to the product page for the font kit for details.

    Please refer to the guide below for the selected font kit assembly

    (only suitable for Series X Plus)

    (only suitable for Series X Plus)

    Quad Font Kits

    Series X Plus User Guide | Quad Font Kits

    Quadruple Tap Font Kits

    1. Remove the cap from the top of the font and attach the font to the top of the kegerator using four metric M5 stainless steel screws. The mounting points can be found on the inside of the font and can be attached using a long screwdriver, bit extender or flexible drill bit

    2. Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

    3. Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    4. Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font

    5. Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

    6. Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.

    7. Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

    8. Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

    9. Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a or

    10. Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

    11. Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

    12. NOTE: It is easiest to attach the shanks in the order below:

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    Tee Bar Font Kits

    Series X Plus User Guide | Tee Bar Font Kits

    Tee Bar Fonts

    1. Remove the caps from the end of the fonts and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks

    2. NOTE: Install shanks from the middle of the font outwards

    3. Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to

    4. Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    5. Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font. Angling the shank off to the side slightly is generally easiest

    6. Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

    7. Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.

    8. Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

    9. Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

    10. Using the included M5 x 30mm bolts, mount the font onto the kegerator after feeding the lines through into the kegerator

    11. Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a or

    12. Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

    13. Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

    1. Double check that the EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    Quick Start Guide

    Series 4 User Guide | Quick Start Guide

    IMPORTANT SETUP INFORMATION

    If kegerator has been moved/delivered do not turn it on unless it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours. Failure to do this will void warranty and may damage the kegerator. Leave the kegerator upright for at least 24 hours before plugging in mains power after receiving and unboxing

    Only tip kegerator onto right hand side (as seen from the front), when installing castors etc. Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues

    CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space

    Never exceed 40psi in your keg system

    Always flush chemicals from the beer line completely before tapping keg

    Always check for gas leaks once the kegerator is set up

    Ensure there is at least 100mm clearance on each side of the kegerator after installation. Failure to allow adequate clearance will impact cooling performance and void warranty

    Please refer to this video for a detailed guide to setting up a kegerator.

    This video is specific to a Series X.1 kegerator, but is worth watching as it has a lot of up to date information about duotight fittings etc.

    For detailed, step by step instructions, read on!

    Guide to Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects

    Series 4 User Guide | Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects

    Cornelius (Homebrew) Kegs

    There are two different styles of Cornelius kegs: Ball Lock and Pin Lock. Pin Lock kegs are not really in common use now. Any Cornelius style kegs purchased from KegLand will have Ball Lock fittings.

    Ball Lock fittings can be identified by the posts on the keg or tapping head and require the use of Ball Lock Disconnects:

    Ball Lock fittings | Cornelius Kegs

    There are several types of Ball Lock keg available, including standard stainless 19L and 9.5L Cornelius Kegs, stainless Mini Kegs and also OXEBAR kegs in 20L, 8L and 4L sizes. If using Mini Kegs or 4L or 8L OXEBAR Kegs you will also need a ball lock tapping head.

    To carbonate and dispense from a homebrew style keg you will need to use disconnects. These come in two different categories which are specific for ball-lock or pin-lock kegs. Balllock kegs require ball-lock disconnects and pin-lock kegs require pin-lock disconnects

    Each keg requires a liquid disconnect (black) and a gas disconnect (grey). Due to the design of the posts on the keg a liquid disconnect can only be used on the black liquid (OUT) post and a gas disconnect can only be used on the grey gas (IN) post.

    Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689

    If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.

    Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.

    Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.

    To remove EVABarrier froma duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.

    While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.

    Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.

    Preparation & Installation

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Installation

    WARNING - IMPORTANT INFORMATION

    If kegerator has been moved/delivered do not turn it on unless it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours. Failure to do this will void warranty and may damage the kegerator. Leave the kegerator upright for at least 24 hours before plugging in mains power after receiving and unboxing

    CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space

    Never exceed 40psi in your keg system

    Always flush chemicals from the beer line completely before tapping keg

    Always check for gas leaks once the kegerator is set up

    Included

    • MK4 CO2 Type 30 Regulator

    • Black Reinforced Plastic Drip Tray

    • Font Plug

    • Swappable Door Hinges

    • Custom Adhesive Door Handle (Place the door handle either horizontal on top of the door, or vertical. The choice is yours for which aesthetic is most pleasing)

    • Climate Class: T (Tropical)

    • Refrigerant: R600a

    • Gas Amount: 25g

    • Rated Current: 1A

    Width - 600mm Height - 865mm (no castors) Depth - 600mm (640mm including handle and rear fittings) Download the .

    Designed to fit in a standard 600mm wide cavity

    For a detailed guide on installing the UnderCover Kegerator into your cabinetry/indor or outdoor bar setup, please refer to this video:

    Please note as that as this unit is designed to be built in it does not include castor wheels, a guard rail or CO2 cylinder bracket.

    Setup

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Setup

    Setup

    Please refer to this video for a detailed guide to setting up a kegerator. This is for a Series X kegerator, but the specifics of font setup, balancing beer lines etc are exactly the same across kegerator models.

    Preparation

    • Remove all items from inside kegerator

    • Ensure all items have been included

    • Remove any protective plastic from the kegerator before first use

    • Check for any damage which has occurred during transit including any liquid or oil marks on the inside of the packaging

    Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench

    Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder using the knurled grip. MK5 Regulators can be hand tightened due to the new spigot seal design that easily compresses

    The MK4 regulator comes as standard with a

    Thread the KL06880 duotight fitting onto the regulator by hand, then tighten gently with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench. NOTE: DO not over tighten as this may cause the duotight fitting to split

    Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut

    Push the line firmly into the KL06880 duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)

    The MK5 regulator comes as standard with an 8mm duotight ball valve and integrated check valve

    Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut

    Push the line firmly into the duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted fully (approx.22mm)

    Ensure the ball valve is opened before using the MK5 Regulator

    Please refer to the for a detailed guide on the different types of fonts

    Please refer to the for assembly instructions for the different types of beer and gas connections

    Please refer to the for details on getting the system balanced for a great pour

    Guide to Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Prior to attaching the keg coupler onto the keg make sure that a gas line is connected to the gas inlet and this gas line is connected to a regulator and a beer line is connected to the liquid outlet and this beer line is connected to a tap. Attaching the keg to the keg coupler is usually the last step of the kegerator setup.

    A-Type Keg Coupler

    Slide the keg coupler over the groove on the top of the keg then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg. NOTE: To fit a 50L keg with an A-type keg coupler into a kegerator or if your keg is a DIN style keg (tall skinny style) you will need to use a KL00390 Low Profile Elbow Bend

    D-Type and S-Type Couplers

    Push the coupler into the opening of the spear and then rotate firmly clockwise to attach the coupler to the spear. Then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg.

    More detailed instructions on how to assemble and operate a keg coupler can be seen in this video:

    Inserting EVABarrier hose into duotight fittings

    Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689 Tube Cutter

    If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.

    Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.

    Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.

    NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.

    While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.

    Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.

    KegLand Commercial Couplers are supplied with duotight fittings that make connecting EVABarrier gas and beer line quite easy.

    However, if you plan on switching couplers or wish to use an alternative connection method that allows a bit more customisation, we recommend replacing the duotight fittings with Ball Lock Posts. When adding Ball Lock Posts to a coupler setup, it is recommended to also add a KL00390 which will make it easier to fit a 50L keg.

    You will also need a KL00840 and a KL00833 which will replace the duotight fittings on the coupler and allow you to use Ball Lock Disconnects on the beer and gas line instead

    Quad Font Kits

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Quad Font Kits

    Quadruple Tap Font Kits

    1. Remove the cap from the top of the font and attach the font to the top of the kegerator using four metric M5 stainless steel screws. The mounting points can be found on the inside of the font and can be attached using a long screwdriver, bit extender or flexible drill bit

    2. Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

    3. Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    4. Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font

    5. Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

    6. Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.

    7. Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

    8. Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

    9. Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a or

    10. Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

    11. Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

    12. NOTE: It is easiest to attach the shanks in the order below:

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator.

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    Tee Bar Font Kits

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Tee Bar Font Kits

    Tee Bar Fonts

    1. Remove the caps from the end of the fonts and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks

    2. NOTE: Install shanks from the middle of the font outwards

    3. Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to

    4. Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    5. Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font. Angling the shank off to the side slightly is generally easiest

    6. Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

    7. Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.

    8. Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

    9. Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

    10. Using the included M5 x 30mm bolts, mount the font onto the kegerator after feeding the lines through into the kegerator

    11. Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a or

    12. Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

    13. Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator.

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    Specifications

    Grand Deluxe 3 | Specifications

    WARNING - IMPORTANT INFORMATION

    If kegerator has been moved/delivered do not turn it on unless it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours. Failure to do this will void warranty and may damage the kegerator. Leave the kegerator upright for at least 24 hours before plugging in mains power after receiving and unboxing

    CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space

    Never exceed 40psi in your keg system

    Always flush chemicals from the beer line completely before tapping keg

    Always check for gas leaks once the kegerator is set up

    if fridge has just been moved do not turn on unless it has been standing upright for atleast 24 hours. Failure to do so will void warranty. Stand fridge in the upright position for 24 hours before plugging into mains power socket

    Climate Class 4 - recommended to be used inside an area that does not exceed 30°c and 55% relative humidity. If used outside, note that the compressor will operate for longer intervals and defrost cycles will need to be adjusted based on temperature/humidity levels

    These units do not have heated doors. In areas of high humidity the doors can frost or produce condensation

    Ensure there is at least 100mm clearance on the left side of the kegerator (compressor side) after installation. Failure to allow adequate clearance will impact cooling performance and void warranty

    • 6 x Heavy Duty Castor Wheels and bolts

    • Rubberised wire racks (2 shelves two door models, 4 shelves in three door models)

    • Font fan conduit (single run for two door models, double run for three door models)

    • Inbuilt countersunk stainless drip tray system with drainage tubes fitted

    External: 1495mm (L) x 705mm (W) x 910 (H) [without 100mm castor wheels] Internal: 1160mm (L) x 550mm (D) x 780mm (H)

    External: 2300mm (L) x 710mm (W) x 910 (H) [without 100mm castor wheels] Internal: 1970mm (L) x 550mm (D) x 780mm (H) Distance from the centre of the font holes: 714mm

    • Durable Dixell temperature controller.

    • r290 refrigerant gas. This is more electrically efficient, environmentally friendly and gives better cooling performance.

    • Embraco Compressor - EM2X3117U (Two Door), EM2X3125U (Three Door)

    Font Kit Assembly

    Series X User Guide | Font Kit Assembly

    KegLand Kegerators can be configured with different font and tap options.

    Depending on the kegerator, you can have from 1 - 8 taps, or possibly more with the Grand Deluxe range.

    Fonts and taps can also have different configurations - you may chose standard stainless NukaTaps, the black Stealth Bomber NukaTaps or possibly you need Flow Control NukaTaps (if serving highly carbonated beverages, for example)

    Fonts can be a standard tower configuration, a tee bar or a super slim tee bar type.

    All KegLand Font Kits (as opposed to Font Only) include beer and gas line, shanks and duotight connectors (where necessary), standard black tap handles for NukaTaps and all required beer and gas line, as well as tee pieces to split the gas line as needed. A 7 in 1 tool for easy font and shank assembly is also required. The exact inclusions depend on the type of font and number of taps - please refer to the product page for the font kit for details.

    Please refer to the guide below for the selected font kit assembly

    (only suitable for Series X Plus)

    (only suitable for Series X Plus)

    Equipment Required

    Talos Keg | Equipment Required

    1. Filling Coupler Assembly

      You can purchase the filling coupler as a complete, pre-assembled kit—either the Talos A-Type Filling Coupler (KegLand duotight) or the A-Type Talos Filling Coupler SS. Both options include all the necessary connections listed below:

    2. To move your beverage into the keg, you will need one of the following pressure sources:

    Talos Keg

    Talos Kegs are quickly becoming the best selling one-way keg solution in Australia.

    Leak & Pressure Testing

    Series X User Guide | Leak & Pressure Testing

    Performing a CO2 leak test is important to ensure that your system will hold pressure and that there are no leaks in any connections in the system.

    If there are any leaks this can result in the CO2 cylinder becoming empty in a short period.

    Initial pressure testing can be performed in two different ways. If leaks are detected an can help determine the location of he leak.

    1

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

    Quick Start Guide

    Series X Plus User Guide | Quick Start Guide

    If kegerator has been moved/delivered do not turn it on unless it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours. Failure to do this will void warranty and may damage the kegerator. Leave the kegerator upright for at least 24 hours before plugging in mains power after receiving and unboxing

    Only tip kegerator onto right hand side (as seen from the front), when installing castors etc. Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues

    CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space

    Never exceed 40psi in your keg system

    Always flush chemicals from the beer line completely before tapping keg

    Leak & Pressure Testing

    Series X Plus User Guide | Leak & Pressure Testing

    Performing a CO2 leak test is important to ensure that your system will hold pressure and that there are no leaks in any connections in the system.

    If there are any leaks this can result in the CO2 cylinder becoming empty in a short period.

    Initial pressure testing can be performed in two different ways. If leaks are detected an can help determine the location of he leak.

    1

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

    Leak & Pressure Testing

    Series 4 User Guide | Leak & Pressure Testing

    Performing a CO2 leak test is important to ensure that your system will hold pressure and that there are no leaks in any connections in the system.

    If there are any leaks this can result in the CO2 cylinder becoming empty in a short period.

    Initial pressure testing can be performed in two different ways. If leaks are detected an can help determine the location of he leak.

    1

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

    Leak & Pressure Testing

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Leak & Pressure Testing

    Performing a CO2 leak test is important to ensure that your system will hold pressure and that there are no leaks in any connections in the system.

    If there are any leaks this can result in the CO2 cylinder becoming empty in a short period.

    Initial pressure testing can be performed in two different ways. If leaks are detected an can help determine the location of he leak.

    1

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

    Important Information & Warnings

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Important Information & Warnings

    This instruction sheet contains vital information that is related to the safe usage and handling of the FermZilla All Rounder.

    It is vital that you read this instruction sheet from front to back before using the product!

    THIS IS FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY WHEN USING A PRESSURISABLE FERMENTAION VESSEL

    1. Do not loosen the lid when the FermZilla is under pressure. Purge all pressure in the FermZilla loosening the lid ring

    Disposal

    Talos Keg | Deflating & Recycling

    1

    Turn off the main gas supply line. If your keg coupler features a built-in pressure relief valve (PRV), pull the ring to safely vent the initial top-side pressure from the system.

    2

    Remove the keg coupler from the keg head. Locate the red pressure relief lever on top of the spear and twist it anti-clockwise to ensure all remaining internal pressure is completely released from the keg.

    3

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | User Guide

    KL25898 | KL25904 | KL47296 | KL47302 | FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | User Guide

    Now with 3 Inch Tri-Clover ferrule moulded into the tank and a 600mL Collection Container with a 3 Inch Tri-clover connection. Tri Clover fittings are the gold standard for sanitary design and effortless removal. This unit was born from customer feedback we received on the Gen 2 Model. No more complicated dump valve designs here, just simplicity.

    Brew with confidence in the new Tri-Clover FermZilla Range.

    The FermZilla allows many of the benefits of much more expensive stainless conical fermenters but with the additional benefit of being able to see the fermentation process in action and also ferment at pressures up to 2.4bar. This is an incredible product at an extremely attractive price point in all the different sizes and models.

    YES, it is by far the easiest Conical PET fermenter to disassemble and clean! Simply release all pressure inside the vessel and detatch the tri clover clamps. All parts come apart easily and can be cleaned and sanitised individually with no effort.

    Dimensions - 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions

    Transfer System (Choose One)

    Additional Hardware

    Talos Filling Table:

    Replacing the Seat and Seat Cap Assembly

    Replacing Thumb Screw O-Ring

    Lubricating Thumb Screw

    MK4 - Replacement Regulator Diaphragm and Seat Assembly
    Replacing Seat and Seat Cap Assembly
    Mini Haynes Food Grade Lube 28g

    Compatible font options include:

    Single Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit
    Double Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit
    Triple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit
    Quadruple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit
    Single Tap Black Phantom Font Kit
    Double Tap Black Phantom Font Kit
    Triple Tap Black Phantom Font Kit
    Quadruple Tap Black Phantom Font Kit
    4 Tap T-Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kit
    6 Tap TT Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kit
    8 Tap TT Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kit
    Cover

    Single, Double & Triple Tower Style Font Kits

    Cover

    Quad Font Tower Style Kits

    Cover

    Tee Bar Font Kits

    Compatible font options include:

    Single Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit
    Double Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit
    Triple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit
    Quadruple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit
    Single Tap Black Phantom Font Kit
    Double Tap Black Phantom Font Kit
    Triple Tap Black Phantom Font Kit
    Quadruple Tap Black Phantom Font Kit
    4 Tap T-Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kit
    6 Tap TT Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kit
    8 Tap TT Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kit
    Cover

    Single, Double & Triple Tower Style Font Kits

    Cover

    Quad Font Tower Style Kits

    Cover

    Tee Bar Font Kits

    Introducing the Gen3 FermZilla Tri-Conical

    What's new the difference between Gen2 and Gen3? 1. Moulded 3 inch tri clover ferrule in the body of the FermZilla tank 2. 3 inch Tri-Clover Butterfly Valve 3. 3 Inch Tri-Clover 600mL Collection Container

    Is it easier to clean / take apart than the Gen2?

    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions

    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Tri Clover Lid

    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong

    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong + Butterfly Valve

    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions
    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Tri Clover Lid
    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong
    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong + Butterfly Valve
  • Door keys

  • 220V
  • 304 Stainless Steel Countertops with thick core foam to aid in temperature loss from your refrigerator.

  • Black matte steel finish on the outside that has been chemically engineered with a vinyl substrate to prevent corrosion.

  • Double glazed tempered safety glass with self-closing lockable doors as standard.

  • Exterior LED light switch

  • Inbuilt countersunk stainless drip tray system with drainage tubes fitted. Font mounting hole(s) pre-fitted.

  • Included

    Dimensions (Grand Deluxe 3 Two Door Model)

    Dimensions (Grand Deluxe 3 Three Door Model)

    Specifications

    Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Homebrew Kegs & Disconnects

    Cover
    Cover

    Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Homebrew Kegs & Disconnects

    Cover
    Cover

    Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Homebrew Kegs & Disconnects

    Cover
    Cover

    Single, Double & Triple Tower Style Font Kits

    Cover

    Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Homebrew Kegs & Disconnects

    Cover
    Cover

    Single, Double & Triple Tower Style Font Kits

    Quad Font Tower Style Kits

    Tee Bar Font Kits

    Cover
    Cover
    Cover
    commercial (brewery made)
    homebrew
    commercial (brewery made)
    homebrew
    Triple Gas Line Configuration
    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration

    Inserting EVABarrier hose into duotight fittings

    Removing EVABarrier Hose from duotight fittings

    Tube Cutter
    Using a 7 in 1 tool to remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting

    Inserting EVABarrier hose into duotight fittings

    Removing EVABarrier Hose from duotight fittings

    Tube Cutter
    Using a 7 in 1 tool to remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting

    Inserting EVABarrier hose into duotight fittings

    Removing EVABarrier Hose from duotight fittings

    Tube Cutter
    Using a 7 in 1 tool to remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting

    Flatten and Prepare for Disposal

    Once all pressure is completely evacuated, safely flatten the PET keg shell to reduce its volume for transit or disposal.

    DO NOT CRUSH OR ATTEMPT TO RECYCLE A PRESSURISED KEG. Only completely depressurised and empty Talos Kegs are safe to be handled, crushed, and processed for recycling.

    • Local Standards: Dispose of the flattened PET components in accordance with your local municipality's standard plastic recycling protocols.

    • Maximising Recyclability: For optimal environmental efficiency within Australia, completely disassemble the empty keg before disposal. Manually removing the inner bladder, the plastic base, and the top handle from the outer PET shell significantly increases the overall recyclability of the materials.

    • KegLand Drop-Off Alternative: Empty, depressurised Talos kegs can be returned directly to any official KegLand Distribution Centre (DC) within Australia for dedicated commercial recycling processing.

    Isolate and Vent the Gas Supply

    Fully Depressurise the Spear

    ⚠️ CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING

    ♻️ REGIONAL RECYCLING GUIDELINES (AUSTRALIA)

  • Inclusions

    IMPORTANT

    Setup

    MK4 KegLand Regulator
    MK5 CO2 Regulator - Tool-Free
    Black Plastic Wrap Around Drip Tray
    Set of 4 Castor Wheels + bolts
    CO2 Cylinder Holder
    Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces

    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees

  • EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Four Tap Tee Bar Font Kits)

    Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
    liquid ball lock disconnect
    keg coupler
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    Attach duotight reducer to short shank
    Tightening Short Shank with 7 in 1 tool
    Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces

    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees

  • EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Quad Font Kit)

    Quad Font

    liquid ball lock disconnect
    keg coupler
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    Attach duotight reducer to short shank
    Tightening Short Shank with 7 in 1 tool
    Correct shank order | Quad Font
    Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces

    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees

  • EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Quad Font Kit)

    Quad Font

    liquid ball lock disconnect
    keg coupler
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    Attach duotight reducer to short shank
    Tightening Short Shank with 7 in 1 tool
    Correct shank order | Quad Font
    Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces

    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees

  • EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Four Tap Tee Bar Font Kits)

    Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
    liquid ball lock disconnect
    keg coupler
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    Attach duotight reducer to short shank
    Tightening Short Shank with 7 in 1 tool
  • Inclusions

    IMPORTANT

    Setup

    MK4 KegLand Regulator
    MK5 CO2 Regulator - Tool-Free
    Black Plastic Wrap Around Drip Tray
    Set of 4 Castor Wheels + bolts
    CO2 Cylinder Holder

    Power: 106 Watts

  • Fridge Capacity: 170L

  • Voltage: AC220V

  • Hz: 50Hz

  • Specifications

    KegLand Undercover Kegerator Dimensions

    Installation Guide

    drawings of this model here
    Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces

    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees

  • EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Quad Font Kit)

    Quad Font

    liquid ball lock disconnect
    keg coupler
    MK4
    MK5
    Attach duotight reducer to short shank
    Tightening Short Shank with 7 in 1 tool
    Correct shank order | Quad Font
    Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces

    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees

  • EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Four Tap Tee Bar Font Kits)

    Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
    liquid ball lock disconnect
    keg coupler
    MK4
    MK5
    Attach duotight reducer to short shank
    Tightening Short Shank with 7 in 1 tool

    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

    3

    Turn CO2 cylinder valve off

    Once pressurised, turn the valve handle on the CO2 cylinder clockwise until the valve is turned off

    4

    Check Pressure

    Wait for at least two hours then check the pressure reading on the right hand (low pressure) gauge of the regulator

    If the pressure reading has not changed (so is still reading ~20psi) then there are no leaks in the system

    If the pressure has dropped a noticeable amount then it is very likely there is a leak in the system. Use Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test to locate the leak. Note: Even if this test is passed it is quite a good idea to perform this test in any case

    1

    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 40-50psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to ensure the system is properly pressurised. Note: We use a higher pressure in order to make any leaks easier to detect. Ensure there is no beer in the keg as it may become over-carbonated

    3

    Check For Leaks

    Using a soapy water solution (washing up liquid and water is perfect for this) in a spry bottle or simply dabbed on, check for leaks at all connections. The soapy water spray will slowly bubble if there are any leaks.

    Connections to check include:

    • The connection between the CO2 cylinder and the regulator • All duotight connections including the 8mm x FFL duotight connected to the regulator, ball lock disconnects and keg coupler, the 6.5mm x 8mm duotight reducers connected to the short shanks and the 8mm duotight tee pieces • Around ball lock disconnects and keg couplers when they are connected to the keg • Around the lid of a Cornelius keg • Make sure to remove the ball lock disconnects from the posts of the ball lock keg and check the post itself for leaks

    IMPORTANT: Do not spray any duotight fittings with StellarSan or phosphoric acid solution to perform a leak test.

    4

    Once any leaks have been located and fixed, perform another Pressure Decay Test to ensure that the system holds pressure

    If any CO2 leaks are detected, if can be helpful to perform an Isolation Test to determine where the leak is in the system

    1

    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

    3

    Isolate System

    Once the system is pressurised, isolate each part of the system.

    1. Turn valve of CO2 cylinder fully off.

    2. Fully unwind the (anti clockwise) the regulator knob

    3. Remove Gas Disconnect from the keg

    4. (If using) Remove Gas Disconnect from gas inlet of kegerator

    4

    After at least 12 hours, if there is a leak in the system we can determine roughly where the leak is after isolating

    1. If the weight of the CO2 cylinder has gone down noticeably, the cylinder possibly has a leak

    2. If the pressure on the regulator has gone down, the regulator, gas line or fittings may have a leak

    Important

    Method 1 - Pressure Decay Test

    Connect System

    Isolation Test

    Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test

    Isolation Test

    Always check for gas leaks once the kegerator is set up

    Ensure there is at least 100mm clearance on each side of the kegerator after installation. Failure to allow adequate clearance will impact cooling performance and void warranty

    NOTE: The Series X Plus does not include a wire shelf. The Kegerator Modular Wire Shelf Set (3 Pieces) are suitable if you wish to add a shelf

    Please refer to this video for a detailed guide to setting up a kegerator.

    The following video is for a standard Series X setup, but includes useful information regarding duotight disconnect fittings and other products

    For detailed, step by step instructions, read on!

    IMPORTANT SETUP INFORMATION

    Inclusions

    IMPORTANT

    Setup

    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

    3

    Turn CO2 cylinder valve off

    Once pressurised, turn the valve handle on the CO2 cylinder clockwise until the valve is turned off

    4

    Check Pressure

    Wait for at least two hours then check the pressure reading on the right hand (low pressure) gauge of the regulator

    If the pressure reading has not changed (so is still reading ~20psi) then there are no leaks in the system

    If the pressure has dropped a noticeable amount then it is very likely there is a leak in the system. Use Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test to locate the leak. Note: Even if this test is passed it is quite a good idea to perform this test in any case

    1

    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 40-50psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to ensure the system is properly pressurised. Note: We use a higher pressure in order to make any leaks easier to detect. Ensure there is no beer in the keg as it may become over-carbonated

    3

    Check For Leaks

    Using a soapy water solution (washing up liquid and water is perfect for this) in a spry bottle or simply dabbed on, check for leaks at all connections. The soapy water spray will slowly bubble if there are any leaks.

    Connections to check include:

    • The connection between the CO2 cylinder and the regulator • All duotight connections including the 8mm x FFL duotight connected to the regulator, ball lock disconnects and keg coupler, the 6.5mm x 8mm duotight reducers connected to the short shanks and the 8mm duotight tee pieces • Around ball lock disconnects and keg couplers when they are connected to the keg • Around the lid of a Cornelius keg • Make sure to remove the ball lock disconnects from the posts of the ball lock keg and check the post itself for leaks

    IMPORTANT: Do not spray any duotight fittings with StellarSan or phosphoric acid solution to perform a leak test.

    4

    Once any leaks have been located and fixed, perform another Pressure Decay Test to ensure that the system holds pressure

    If any CO2 leaks are detected, if can be helpful to perform an Isolation Test to determine where the leak is in the system

    1

    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

    3

    Isolate System

    Once the system is pressurised, isolate each part of the system.

    1. Turn valve of CO2 cylinder fully off.

    2. Fully unwind the (anti clockwise) the regulator knob

    3. Remove Gas Disconnect from the keg

    4. (If using) Remove Gas Disconnect from gas inlet of kegerator

    4

    After at least 12 hours, if there is a leak in the system we can determine roughly where the leak is after isolating

    1. If the weight of the CO2 cylinder has gone down noticeably, the cylinder possibly has a leak

    2. If the pressure on the regulator has gone down, the regulator, gas line or fittings may have a leak

    Important

    Method 1 - Pressure Decay Test

    Connect System

    Isolation Test

    Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test

    Isolation Test

    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

    3

    Turn CO2 cylinder valve off

    Once pressurised, turn the valve handle on the CO2 cylinder clockwise until the valve is turned off

    4

    Check Pressure

    Wait for at least two hours then check the pressure reading on the right hand (low pressure) gauge of the regulator

    If the pressure reading has not changed (so is still reading ~20psi) then there are no leaks in the system

    If the pressure has dropped a noticeable amount then it is very likely there is a leak in the system. Use Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test to locate the leak. Note: Even if this test is passed it is quite a good idea to perform this test in any case

    1

    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 40-50psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to ensure the system is properly pressurised. Note: We use a higher pressure in order to make any leaks easier to detect. Ensure there is no beer in the keg as it may become over-carbonated

    3

    Check For Leaks

    Using a soapy water solution (washing up liquid and water is perfect for this) in a spry bottle or simply dabbed on, check for leaks at all connections. The soapy water spray will slowly bubble if there are any leaks.

    Connections to check include:

    • The connection between the CO2 cylinder and the regulator • All duotight connections including the 8mm x FFL duotight connected to the regulator, ball lock disconnects and keg coupler, the 6.5mm x 8mm duotight reducers connected to the short shanks and the 8mm duotight tee pieces • Around ball lock disconnects and keg couplers when they are connected to the keg • Around the lid of a Cornelius keg • Make sure to remove the ball lock disconnects from the posts of the ball lock keg and check the post itself for leaks

    IMPORTANT: Do not spray any duotight fittings with StellarSan or phosphoric acid solution to perform a leak test.

    4

    Once any leaks have been located and fixed, perform another Pressure Decay Test to ensure that the system holds pressure

    If any CO2 leaks are detected, if can be helpful to perform an Isolation Test to determine where the leak is in the system

    1

    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

    3

    Isolate System

    Once the system is pressurised, isolate each part of the system.

    1. Turn valve of CO2 cylinder fully off.

    2. Fully unwind the (anti clockwise) the regulator knob

    3. Remove Gas Disconnect from the keg

    4. (If using) Remove Gas Disconnect from gas inlet of kegerator

    4

    After at least 12 hours, if there is a leak in the system we can determine roughly where the leak is after isolating

    1. If the weight of the CO2 cylinder has gone down noticeably, the cylinder possibly has a leak

    2. If the pressure on the regulator has gone down, the regulator, gas line or fittings may have a leak

    Important

    Method 1 - Pressure Decay Test

    Connect System

    Isolation Test

    Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test

    Isolation Test

    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

    3

    Turn CO2 cylinder valve off

    Once pressurised, turn the valve handle on the CO2 cylinder clockwise until the valve is turned off

    4

    Check Pressure

    Wait for at least two hours then check the pressure reading on the right hand (low pressure) gauge of the regulator

    If the pressure reading has not changed (so is still reading ~20psi) then there are no leaks in the system

    If the pressure has dropped a noticeable amount then it is very likely there is a leak in the system. Use Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test to locate the leak. Note: Even if this test is passed it is quite a good idea to perform this test in any case

    1

    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 40-50psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to ensure the system is properly pressurised. Note: We use a higher pressure in order to make any leaks easier to detect. Ensure there is no beer in the keg as it may become over-carbonated

    3

    Check For Leaks

    Using a soapy water solution (washing up liquid and water is perfect for this) in a spry bottle or simply dabbed on, check for leaks at all connections. The soapy water spray will slowly bubble if there are any leaks.

    Connections to check include:

    • The connection between the CO2 cylinder and the regulator • All duotight connections including the 8mm x FFL duotight connected to the regulator, ball lock disconnects and keg coupler, the 6.5mm x 8mm duotight reducers connected to the short shanks and the 8mm duotight tee pieces • Around ball lock disconnects and keg couplers when they are connected to the keg • Around the lid of a Cornelius keg • Make sure to remove the ball lock disconnects from the posts of the ball lock keg and check the post itself for leaks

    IMPORTANT: Do not spray any duotight fittings with StellarSan or phosphoric acid solution to perform a leak test.

    4

    Once any leaks have been located and fixed, perform another Pressure Decay Test to ensure that the system holds pressure

    If any CO2 leaks are detected, if can be helpful to perform an Isolation Test to determine where the leak is in the system

    1

    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

    3

    Isolate System

    Once the system is pressurised, isolate each part of the system.

    1. Turn valve of CO2 cylinder fully off.

    2. Fully unwind the (anti clockwise) the regulator knob

    3. Remove Gas Disconnect from the keg

    4. (If using) Remove Gas Disconnect from gas inlet of kegerator

    4

    After at least 12 hours, if there is a leak in the system we can determine roughly where the leak is after isolating

    1. If the weight of the CO2 cylinder has gone down noticeably, the cylinder possibly has a leak

    2. If the pressure on the regulator has gone down, the regulator, gas line or fittings may have a leak

    Important

    Method 1 - Pressure Decay Test

    Connect System

    Isolation Test

    Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test

    Isolation Test

    When not under pressure do not expose to liquids above 55°C (131°F). Only clean, wash or sanitise the fermenter with cold water
  • When under pressure do not expose to any temperatures above 35°C (95°F)

  • Keep the fermenter out of direct sun or heat. Do not expose to UV rays of any sort

  • If using a heat belt to warm the fermenter then only have the heat belt sitting below the liquid level. Do not use an unregulated heat source, only use heat sources which are plugged into a temperature controller

  • Under no circumstances apply more than 2.5bar (35psi) to the fermenter. Do not connect an unregulated pressure source. If you connect external pressure source ensure it has independent PRV pre-set to 35psi or below

  • A spunding valve set below 35psi must always be connected to the FermZilla when fermenting under pressure or connected to the recipient keg when performing a closed transfer. Recommended range for pressure fermenting is 10-12psi

  • Do not tamper with the pressure relief valve. Only use the red or yellow coloured pressure relief valve supplied by KegLand

  • If vigorous fermentation is experienced and krausen or wort has contacted the PRV, ensure the PRV is removed and cleaned before putting the FermZilla under pressure

  • If the fermenter is scratched, damaged or has been under any physical duress; do not use the fermenter under pressure without hydro-testing

  • If you use the fermenter under pressure hydro test the fermenter every 24 months to ensure it is safe to use

  • Only use chemical cleaners and sanitizers that are approved by Kegland. These include: KL05371 Ethyl Sanitiser Spray (effective for sanitising the exterior of the FermZilla) , KL05357 StellarSan (mixed to the correct dilution), KL05494 StellarClean PBW (not to be left in the FermZilla for more than 30 minutes), KL07405 StellarOxy. Or contact https://www.kegland.com.au/ for more information regarding other compatible chemical cleaning products

  • Do not over tighten carbonation caps onto the threads of the lid. Doing so can result in the thread being stripped or cracked. We recommend using KL10788 Multi Gas Post Plastic Carbonation Cap (available in red (gas) and yellow (liquid)

  • Do not over tighten the stainless-steel handles onto the neck of the FermZilla

  • Avoid lifting the FermZilla while full. If filled with wort avoid moving the FermZilla to prevent sticky wort from preventing the PRV from operating

  • Always conduct a leak test prior to beginning fermentation

  • Lubricating all O-rings will prolong the life of the unit. We recommend Haynes Food Grade Lube

  • When fermenting under pressure, a PRV alone is not sufficient. A Spunding Valve must be used to ensure pressure dos not build beyond safe limits.

  • Using a Spunding Valve to ferment under Pressure

    Warnings

    Installing Regulator onto the CO2 Cylinder

    KL07429 MK4 Regulator

    KL30670 MK5 Regulator

    Attach 8mm EVABarrier gas line to the Regulator

    KL07429 MK4 Regulator

    KL30670 MK5 Regulator

    Setup Font, Taps and Beer line(s)

    Connect gas & beer lines to coupler or disconnects

    Balance Beer Lines and Carbonation levels

    KL06880 8mm x FFL duotight fitting
    Font Assembly
    Keg Types guide
    Balancing Kegerator Lines & CO2 guide

    Removing EVABarrier Hose from duotight fittings

    Using Ball Lock DIsconnects with Commercial Couplers

    Low Profile Elbow Bend
    Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Liquid
    Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Gas
    Using a 7 in 1 tool to remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting
    Couplers adapted for Ball Lock Posts

    Guide to Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Series X User Guide | Comerrcial Kegs & Couplers

    Commercial (Brewery Made) Style Kegs

    Commercial kegs primarily come in a range of sizes; 20L, 30L and 50L. 50L kegs are the most common size. Commercial kegs come in three main styles: A-type, D-type and S-type. These three types of commercial kegs can be distinguished by the shape of their spear (shown below).

    In Australia A-type and D-type kegs are the most common. You will need to buy the specific keg coupler to fit the keg type, make sure that prior to buying a kegerator you know which type of keg you will be using and which keg coupler is required to dispense from this keg.

    As a general rule, CUB and related breweries use D-Type Couplers, all other breweries use A-Type Couplers. S-Type Couplers are typically only used for fully imported beers.

    The following diagram shows the different ypes of spear available:

    Different commercial spear/coupler styles

    Once you have the correct coupler to suit your keg it will need to be assembled and connected to the beer and gas line.

    On a keg coupler there is an inlet for gas and an outlet for liquid. The gas inlet is positioned on a 45-degree angle and the liquid outlet is positioned vertically. It is important to connect the gas line and beer line to the correct inlet and outlet.

    Inside the KegLand coupler box you will find two types of one-way check valves: a gas duck bill valve and a liquid torpedo check piece.

    The duck bill valve is used for the gas inlet and the torpedo check piece or non-return ball is used for the liquid outlet. In a homebrew setting it may only be necessary to use a check valve in the gas inlet to prevent liquid flowing back in to the regulator.

    To install the gas duck bill valve, remove the black EPDM washer from inside the 5/8” duotight fitting on the gas inlet and then insert the gas duck bill valve into the opening (as shown below). Then screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler.

    To install the liquid torpedo check piece, remove the 5/8” duotight fitting keeping the black EPDM washer in place, then insert the ball and cage (in the order shown below) and then finally screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler. NOTE: The closed part of the cage must be at the top to hold the ball in place, otherwise this can block the beer from flowing.

    Prior to attaching the keg coupler onto the keg make sure that a gas line is connected to the gas inlet and this gas line is connected to a regulator and a beer line is connected to the liquid outlet and this beer line is connected to a tap. Attaching the keg to the keg coupler is usually the last step of the kegerator setup.

    Slide the keg coupler over the groove on the top of the keg then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg. NOTE: To fit a 50L keg with an A-type keg coupler into a kegerator or if your keg is a DIN style keg (tall skinny style) you will need to use a KL00390

    Push the coupler into the opening of the spear and then rotate firmly clockwise to attach the coupler to the spear. Then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg.

    More detailed instructions on how to assemble and operate a keg coupler can be seen in this video:

    Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689

    If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.

    Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.

    Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.

    NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.

    While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.

    Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.

    KegLand Commercial Couplers are supplied with duotight fittings that make connecting EVABarrier gas and beer line quite easy.

    However, if you plan on switching couplers or wish to use an alternative connection method that allows a bit more customisation, we recommend replacing the duotight fittings with Ball Lock Posts. When adding Ball Lock Posts to a coupler setup, it is recommended to also add a KL00390 which will make it easier to fit a 50L keg.

    You will also need a KL00840 and a KL00833 which will replace the duotight fittings on the coupler and allow you to use Ball Lock Disconnects on the beer and gas line instead

    Single, Double and Triple Font Kits

    Series X User Guide | Single, Double & Triple Font Kit Assembly

    Single, Double and Triple Tap Fonts

    1. Remove the cap from the top of the font and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks

    2. Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

    3. Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    4. Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font

    5. Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

    6. Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.

    7. Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

    8. Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

    9. Using the included M5 x 30mm bolts, mount the font onto the kegerator after feeding the lines through into the kegerator

    10. Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a or

    11. Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

    12. Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

    1. Double check that the EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for beer or for

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 1m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 1.5m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

    Series X User Guide | Balancing Beer Lines

    Beer Line Diameter and Length Correlation

    To ensure you get a consistent pour with the correct amount of head it is important to ensure the length of beer is correlated with the internal diameter of the EVABarrier hose. The suggested length of beer line for each internal diameter is outlined below.

    To get a great pour with good head the length of the beer line needs to be adjusted according to the internal diameter of the line and to the carbonation level of the liquid being dispensed. Broadly speaking, the smaller the internal diameter of the beer line the less line is required to get a good flow. For that reason, the standard line used for beer line in all KegLand Font Kits is KL06224 4mm ID x 8mm OD Double Wall EVABarrier

    Please refer to this chart for a guide to appropriate beer line length for different diameter line:

    Beer Line Length Guide

    Internal Line DIameter
    Suggested Beer Line Length

    KegLand Font Kits come with pre-cut lengths of beer and gas line. These are typically sized to allow at least 1.5m per length and thus do not need to be cut down in size.

    If cutting your own lengths of beer line it is best to start at the upper end of the suggested range and cut the beer line down in size until the desired pour speed is achieved. The faster the pour, the more likely you will get too much head/foam in the glass and also a fast pour can 'knock' carbonation out of solution resulting in a beer with too much head but no carbonation!

    Thus, for example, if starting with 4mm ID line start with a 2m length and cut down in 100mm lengths until the desired pour is achieved.

    4mm ID line is often the best choice in a short draw (kegerator) setup as it means less overall length of beer line is required which means the kegerator will be less cluttered. It also reduces the amount of beer sitting in the lines between pours.

    To see how much beer is in the line (approximately) please refer to this table:

    Internal Diameter
    Minimum length of line
    Beer per metre in line (approx)
    Total beer in line (approx)

    The downside of 4mm ID beer line is that it is quite hard to fit over barbs. We highly recommend using duotight fittings instead as they are very easy to use and install. They can also be readily swapped out if required - for example, if you decide to change the number of taps and kegs in your setup. All KegLand kegerator kits come with duotight fittings as standard.

    If you are not sure about temperature, carbonation levels and CO2 pressure for serving, setting the kegerator to 2­°C and the regulator to 12psi is appropriate for most situations.

    To produce the perfect pour, a number of variables need to be balanced. These include the beer line length, carbonation level of the beer and storage temperature of the keg.

    The temperature of the beer in the keg correlates directly to the carbonation level. Thus, a beer at 4°C will have less carbonation than a beer at 2°C at the same CO2 pressure.

    For most styles of beer, you should be aiming for a carbonation level of between 2.2-2.8 volumes of carbonation. 2.6 volumes of carbonation can be considered a good average level for most beers. If you are unsure of the carbonation level of the beer IE If it is a commercial keg then assume it is at 2.6 volumes of carbonation.

    To achieve a specific carbonation level refer to this and match the temperature of the kegerator to the desired carbonation level. Typically kegerators would be set to maintain a temperature between 0-3°C. Typically, 2°C is the perfect temperature for most beer styles.

    The pressure at which you dispense the beer should be slightly higher than the carbonation pressure (~10% higher).

    For example, to carbonate to 2.6 volumes at 2°C you would carbonate the beer at approximately 11psi and then serve the beer at approximately 12psi.

    The pressure at which you serve the beer should be determined as above - thus the carbonation level determines the serving level. Do not try to fix a fast or slow pour by adjusting the pressure. Too low a pressure will result in flat beer, and too high a pressure will cause over-carbonation.

    If you think that you have over carbonated your beer you may need to release the Pressure in the keg and then set it to your desired pressure according to the carbonation chart above. Do not release pressure in the keg by pulling the PRV on the regulator as this can result in liquid being pulled into the regulator and potentially causing damage to the regulator.

    If you wish to have beers of different carbonation levels in the kegerator then you can use a KL10870 to have two different serving pressures. Alternatively a KL15035 can be installed on the gas lines which allows individual control of each line.

    This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

    Operation

    Series X User Guide | Operation

    Display Panel Legend

    Display Panel Legend
    1. Cooler (Down) Button

    2. Warmer (Up) Button

    3. Temperature

    4. Celsius/Fahrenheit Indicator

    5. Fan Indicator

    6. Celsius/Fahrenheit Button

    7. Fan Button

    To adjust the Set Point Temperature:

    1. Press and hold the Up button for 5 seconds. The display will flash and show the current Set Point Temperature. This is a Child Safety Lock feature to prevent accidentally changing the Set Point Temperature.

    2. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify and save the Set Point Temperature. When the display stops flashing the new Set Point Temperature will be saved.

    NOTE: The Up or Down buttons must be pressed repeatedly to change the temperature. The temperature will not continue to change if the button is held down - this is a child lock feature.

    To change the displayed temperature between Celsius and Fahrenheit press the °F/°C button. Press it again to revert to the previous units.

    The fan is designed for continuous operation. This will help maintain a consistent temperature. In addition, directing the font fan conduit inside the font can assist with keeping the taps and beer lines cold, which helps to minimise 'first beer foam' issues. If desired the fan can be turned on and off manually using the Fan Button. When the fan is on, the fan icon will be displayed.

    If there is a large variance between the displayed temperature (IE the temperature of the internal temperature probe and the actual internal temperature of the kegerator (as measured by a calibrated thermometer) then the Temperature Offset can be adjusted from -10°C to 10°C

    A Temperature Offset will offset the displayed temperature by the entered amount.

    Thus, if the displayed temperature is 2°C but the actual internal temperature is 4°C, an offset of +2°C is required.

    Note: In most cases this is not necessary to be adjusted. There will be minor temperature differences in the kegerator due to airflow etc.

    1. Press and hold the Up and Down buttons for approx 5 seconds - until the display flashes SC

    2. Once the display flashes SC, release the Up or Down buttons and press the °F/°C button. This will display the current Offset Temperature (which should be 0°)

    The exterior of the kegerator can be cleaned with a damp microfibre cloth and a mild spray cleaner. Stainless polish may be used on stainless surfaces (such as fonts etc). or solutions may also be used instead.

    Monitor the evaporator plate (at the back of the kegerator on top of the compressor). In normal use this should not be filled with water as the heat generated by the compressor will evaporate normal levels of water. If there is excessive water in the evaporator plate or it is overflowing please refer to

    The interior of the kegerator may be cleaned in the same manner. It is not uncommon for some mould to be present inside the kegerator due to the nature of use. If present, clean with a mild mould remover spray and a damp microfibre cloth. Be careful to not get mould spray on any fittings such as keg posts or disconnects.

    Preparation & Setup

    Series X Plus User Guide | Preparation & Setup

    Installation & Setup

    Preparation

    Remove and check all items from inside the kegerator

    Remove any protective film and tape from the kegerator

    Inspect kegerator for any damage that may have incurred in transit including liquid or oil marks inside packaging. If any damage is noted contact your retailer

    Castor Wheels Installation

    Make sure the kegerator is empty

    Carefully lay the kegerator on its side on a soft surface such as carpet, cardboard or a towel. NOTE: Ensure the kegerator is tipped onto the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues

    Unscrew the feet from the base of the kegerator

    Remove the screws in the base of the kegerator in each corner. These are pre-installed screws that are used to mount the castor wheels. NOTE: These can be quite tight from the factory. A 5/16" socket or wrench will allow more leverage than a Philips driver if required

    The two locking castor wheels should be installed towards the front of the kegerator

    Position the kegerator back upright and leave for a minimum 1 hour before turning it on to allow the refrigerant gas to settle. If installing the castors shortly after receiving the kegerator, leave the kegerator upright for a minimum of 24 hours before turning it on

    NOTE: The screw holes may be filled with foam and have a foil covering. If this is the case push and thread the screws through the foam or foil. The screw will then catch on the thread allowing it to be screwed in completely

    Position the guard rail so the feet line up with the holes in the top of the kegerator

    Push the feet of the railing firmly into the holes

    Align the four holes in the bracket with the four studs on the back of the kegerator

    Insert the studs into the holes and then push the bracket down firmly to secure it

    Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench

    Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder using the knurled grip. MK5 Regulators can be hand tightened due to the new spigot seal design that easily compresses

    The MK4 regulator comes as standard with a

    Thread the KL06880 duotight fitting onto the regulator by hand, then tighten gently with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench. NOTE: DO not over tighten as this may cause the duotight fitting to split

    Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut

    Push the line firmly into the KL06880 duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)

    The MK5 regulator comes as standard with an 8mm duotight ball valve and integrated check valve

    Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut

    Push the line firmly into the duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted fully (approx.22mm)

    Ensure the ball valve is opened before using the MK5 Regulator

    Unscrew one of the caps on the back of the Series X and feed the EVABarrier gas line through the hole

    The gas port threads can be easily converted to allow a gas disconnect connection, which is quite convenient for disconnecting the gas line from the kegerator. This is optional

    You will need 1 x Carbonation Cap, 1 x Gas Disconnect, 1 x 8mm x 6.35mm duotight reducer

    Screw the Carbonation Cap onto the gas inlet thread at the back of the kegerator

    Cut the 8mm EVABarrier gas line to the correct length so that it easily reaches from the regulator to the Carbonation Cap

    Fit the Gas Disconnect onto the end of the gas line, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)

    FIt the 8mm x 6.35mm duotight reducer onto the corresponding barb of the Carbonation Cap inside the kegerator. The gas line(s) inside the kegerator will then attach directly to this duotight fitting

    Connect the Gas Disconnect to the Carbonation Cap to complete the assembly

    Please refer to the for a detailed guide on the different types of fonts

    Please refer to the for assembly instructions for the different types of beer and gas connections

    Please refer to the for details on getting the system balanced for a great pour

    Guide to Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Series X Plus User Guide | Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Commercial (Brewery Made) Style Kegs

    Commercial kegs primarily come in a range of sizes; 20L, 30L and 50L. 50L kegs are the most common size. Commercial kegs come in three main styles: A-type, D-type and S-type. These three types of commercial kegs can be distinguished by the shape of their spear (shown below).

    In Australia A-type and D-type kegs are the most common. You will need to buy the specific keg coupler to fit the keg type, make sure that prior to buying a kegerator you know which type of keg you will be using and which keg coupler is required to dispense from this keg.

    As a general rule, CUB and related breweries use D-Type Couplers, all other breweries use A-Type Couplers. S-Type Couplers are typically only used for fully imported beers.

    The following diagram shows the different ypes of spear available:

    Different commercial spear/coupler styles

    Once you have the correct coupler to suit your keg it will need to be assembled and connected to the beer and gas line.

    On a keg coupler there is an inlet for gas and an outlet for liquid. The gas inlet is positioned on a 45-degree angle and the liquid outlet is positioned vertically. It is important to connect the gas line and beer line to the correct inlet and outlet.

    Inside the KegLand coupler box you will find two types of one-way check valves: a gas duck bill valve and a liquid torpedo check piece.

    The duck bill valve is used for the gas inlet and the torpedo check piece or non-return ball is used for the liquid outlet. In a homebrew setting it may only be necessary to use a check valve in the gas inlet to prevent liquid flowing back in to the regulator.

    To install the gas duck bill valve, remove the black EPDM washer from inside the 5/8” duotight fitting on the gas inlet and then insert the gas duck bill valve into the opening (as shown below). Then screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler.

    To install the liquid torpedo check piece, remove the 5/8” duotight fitting keeping the black EPDM washer in place, then insert the ball and cage (in the order shown below) and then finally screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler. NOTE: The closed part of the cage must be at the top to hold the ball in place, otherwise this can block the beer from flowing.

    Prior to attaching the keg coupler onto the keg make sure that a gas line is connected to the gas inlet and this gas line is connected to a regulator and a beer line is connected to the liquid outlet and this beer line is connected to a tap. Attaching the keg to the keg coupler is usually the last step of the kegerator setup.

    Slide the keg coupler over the groove on the top of the keg then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg. NOTE: To fit a 50L keg with an A-type keg coupler into a kegerator or if your keg is a DIN style keg (tall skinny style) you will need to use a KL00390

    Push the coupler into the opening of the spear and then rotate firmly clockwise to attach the coupler to the spear. Then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg.

    More detailed instructions on how to assemble and operate a keg coupler can be seen in this video:

    Before connecting EVABarrier ito duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689

    If the EVABarrier has been used previousLY, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.

    Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.

    Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.

    NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    To remove EVABarrier froma duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.

    While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.

    Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.

    KegLand Commercial Couplers are supplied with duotight fittings that make connecting EVABarrier gas and beer line quite easy.

    However, if you plan on switching couplers or wish to use an alternative connection method that allows a bit more customisation, we recommend replacing the duotight fittings with Ball Lock Posts. When adding Ball Lock Posts to a coupler setup, it is recommended to also add a KL00390 which will make it easier to fit a 50L keg.

    You will also need a KL00840 and a KL00833 which will replace the duotight fittings on the coupler and allow you to use Ball Lock Disconnects on the beer and gas line instead

    Single, Double and Triple Font Kits

    Series X Plus User Guide | Single, Double and Triple Font Kits

    Single, Double and Triple Tap Fonts

    1. Remove the cap from the top of the font and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks

    2. Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

    3. Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    4. Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font

    5. Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

    6. Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.

    7. Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

    8. Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

    9. Using the included M5 x 30mm bolts, mount the font onto the kegerator after feeding the lines through into the kegerator

    10. Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a or

    11. Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

    12. Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

    1. Double check that the EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for beer or for

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 1m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 1.5m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

    Series X Plus User Guide | Balancing Lines

    Beer Line Diameter and Length Correlation

    To ensure you get a consistent pour with the correct amount of head it is important to ensure the length of beer is correlated with the internal diameter of the EVABarrier hose. The suggested length of beer line for each internal diameter is outlined below.

    To get a great pour with good head the length of the beer line needs to be adjusted according to the internal diameter of the line and to the carbonation level of the liquid being dispensed. Broadly speaking, the smaller the internal diameter of the beer line the less line is required to get a good flow. For that reason, the standard line used for beer line in all KegLand Font Kits is KL06224 4mm ID x 8mm OD Double Wall EVABarrier

    Please refer to this chart for a guide to appropriate beer line length for different diameter line:

    Beer Line Length Guide

    Internal Line DIameter
    Suggested Beer Line Length

    KegLand Font Kits come with pre-cut lengths of beer and gas line. These are typically sized to allow at least 1.5m per length and thus do not need to be cut down in size.

    If cutting your own lengths of beer line it is best to start at the upper end of the suggested range and cut the beer line down in size until the desired pour speed is achieved. The faster the pour, the more likely you will get too much head/foam in the glass and also a fast pour can 'knock' carbonation out of solution resulting in a beer with too much head but no carbonation!

    Thus, for example, if starting with 4mm ID line start with a 2m length and cut down in 100mm lengths until the desired pour is achieved.

    4mm ID line is often the best choice in a short draw (kegerator) setup as it means less overall length of beer line is required which means the kegerator will be less cluttered. It also reduces the amount of beer sitting in the lines between pours.

    To see how much beer is in the line (approximately) please refer to this table:

    Internal Diameter
    Minimum length of line
    Beer per metre in line (approx)
    Total beer in line (approx)

    The downside of 4mm ID beer line is that it is quite hard to fit over barbs. We highly recommend using duotight fittings instead as they are very easy to use and install. They can also be readily swapped out if required - for example, if you decide to change the number of taps and kegs in your setup. All KegLand kegerator kits come with duotight fittings as standard.

    If you are not sure about temperature, carbonation levels and CO2 pressure for serving, setting the kegerator to 2­°C and the regulator to 12psi is appropriate for most situations.

    To produce the perfect pour, a number of variables need to be balanced. These include the beer line length, carbonation level of the beer and storage temperature of the keg.

    The temperature of the beer in the keg correlates directly to the carbonation level. Thus, a beer at 4°C will have less carbonation than a beer at 2°C at the same CO2 pressure.

    For most styles of beer, you should be aiming for a carbonation level of between 2.2-2.8 volumes of carbonation. 2.6 volumes of carbonation can be considered a good average level for most beers. If you are unsure of the carbonation level of the beer IE If it is a commercial keg then assume it is at 2.6 volumes of carbonation.

    To achieve a specific carbonation level refer to this and match the temperature of the kegerator to the desired carbonation level. Typically kegerators would be set to maintain a temperature between 0-3°C. Typically, 2°C is the perfect temperature for most beer styles.

    The pressure at which you dispense the beer should be slightly higher than the carbonation pressure (~10% higher).

    For example, to carbonate to 2.6 volumes at 2°C you would carbonate the beer at approximately 11psi and then serve the beer at approximately 12psi.

    The pressure at which you serve the beer should be determined as above - thus the carbonation level determines the serving level. Do not try to fix a fast or slow pour by adjusting the pressure. Too low a pressure will result in flat beer, and too high a pressure will cause over-carbonation.

    If you think that you have over carbonated your beer you may need to release the Pressure in the keg and then set it to your desired pressure according to the carbonation chart above. Do not release pressure in the keg by pulling the PRV on the regulator as this can result in liquid being pulled into the regulator and potentially causing damage to the regulator.

    If you wish to have beers of different carbonation levels in the kegerator then you can use a KL10870 to have two different serving pressures. Alternatively a KL15035 can be installed on the gas lines which allows individual control of each line.

    This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the regulator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

    Operation

    Series X Plus User Guide | Operation

    Display Panel Legend

    Display Panel Legend
    1. Cooler (Down) Button

    2. Warmer (Up) Button

    3. Temperature

    4. Celsius/Fahrenheit Indicator

    5. Fan Indicator

    6. Celsius/Fahrenheit Button

    7. Fan Button

    To adjust the Set Point Temperature:

    1. Press and hold the Up button for 5 seconds. The display will flash and show the current Set Point Temperature. This is a Child Safety Lock feature to prevent accidentally changing the Set Point Temperature.

    2. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify and save the Set Point Temperature. When the display stops flashing the new Set Point Temperature will be saved.

    NOTE: The Up or Down buttons must be pressed repeatedly to change the temperature. The temperature will not continue to change if the button is held down - this is a child lock feature.

    To change the displayed temperature between Celsius and Fahrenheit press the °F/°C button. Press it again to revert to the previous units.

    The fan is designed for continuous operation. This will help maintain a consistent temperature. In addition, directing the font fan conduit inside the font can assist with keeping the taps and beer lines cold, which helps to minimise 'first beer foam' issues. If desired the fan can be turned on and off manually using the Fan Button. When the fan is on, the fan icon will be displayed.

    If there is a large variance between the displayed temperature (IE the temperature of the internal temperature probe and the actual internal temperature of the kegerator (as measured by a calibrated thermometer) then the Temperature Offset can be adjusted from -10°C to 10°C

    A Temperature Offset will offset the displayed temperature by the entered amount.

    Thus, if the displayed temperature is 2°C but the actual internal temperature is 4°C, an offset of +2°C is required.

    Note: In most cases this is not necessary to be adjusted. There will be minor temperature differences in the kegerator due to airflow etc.

    1. Press and hold the Up and Down buttons for approx 5 seconds - until the display flashes SC

    2. Once the display flashes SC, release the Up or Down buttons and press the °F/°C button. This will display the current Offset Temperature (which should be 0°)

    The exterior of the kegerator can be cleaned with a damp microfibre cloth and a mild spray cleaner. Stainless polish may be used on stainless surfaces (such as fonts etc). or solutions may also be used instead.

    Monitor the evaporator plate (at the back of the kegerator on top of the compressor). In normal use this should not be filled with water as the heat generated by the compressor will evaporate normal levels of water. If there is excessive water in the evaporator plate or it is overflowing please refer to

    The interior of the kegerator may be cleaned in the same manner. It is not uncommon for some mould to be present inside the kegerator due to the nature of use. If present, clean with a mild mould remover spray and a damp microfibre cloth. Be careful to not get mould spray on any fittings such as keg posts or disconnects.

    Preparation & Setup

    Series 4 User Guide | Preparation & Setup

    Installation & Setup

    Preparation

    Remove and check all items from inside the kegerator

    Remove any protective film and tape from the kegerator

    Inspect kegerator for any damage that may have incurred in transit including liquid or oil marks inside packaging. If any damage is noted contact your retailer

    Castor Wheels Installation

    Make sure the kegerator is empty

    Carefully lay the kegerator on its side on a soft surface such as carpet, cardboard or a towel. NOTE: Ensure the kegerator is tipped onto the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues

    Unscrew the feet from the base of the kegerator

    Remove the screws in the base of the kegerator in each corner. These are pre-installed screws that are used to mount the castor wheels. NOTE: These can be quite tight from the factory. A 5/16" socket or wrench will allow more leverage than a Philips driver if required

    The two locking castor wheels should be installed towards the front of the kegerator

    Position the kegerator back upright and leave for a minimum 1 hour before turning it on to allow the refrigerant gas to settle. If installing the castors shortly after receiving the kegerator, leave the kegerator upright for a minimum of 24 hours before turning it on

    NOTE: The screw holes may be filled with foam and have a foil covering. If this is the case push and thread the screws through the foam or foil. The screw will then catch on the thread allowing it to be screwed in completely

    Position the guard rail so the feet line up with the holes in the top of the kegerator

    Push the feet of the railing firmly into the holes

    Align the four holes in the bracket with the four studs on the back of the kegerator

    Insert the studs into the holes and then push the bracket down firmly to secure it

    Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench

    Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder using the knurled grip. MK5 Regulators can be hand tightened due to the new spigot seal design that easily compresses

    The MK4 regulator comes as standard with a

    Thread the KL06880 duotight fitting onto the regulator by hand, then tighten gently with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench. NOTE: DO not over tighten as this may cause the duotight fitting to split

    Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut

    Push the line firmly into the KL06880 duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)

    The MK5 regulator comes as standard with an 8mm duotight ball valve and integrated check valve

    Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut

    Push the line firmly into the duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted fully (approx.22mm)

    Ensure the ball valve is opened before using the MK5 Regulator

    Unscrew one of the caps on the back of the Series X and feed the EVABarrier gas line through the hole

    Please refer to the for a detailed guide on the different types of fonts

    Please refer to the for assembly instructions for the different types of beer and gas connections

    Please refer to the for details on getting the system balanced for a great pour

    Guide to Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Series 4 User Guide | Comerrcial Kegs & Couplers

    Commercial (Brewery Made) Style Kegs

    Commercial kegs primarily come in a range of sizes; 20L, 30L and 50L. 50L kegs are the most common size. Commercial kegs come in three main styles: A-type, D-type and S-type. These three types of commercial kegs can be distinguished by the shape of their spear (shown below).

    In Australia A-type and D-type kegs are the most common. You will need to buy the specific keg coupler to fit the keg type, make sure that prior to buying a kegerator you know which type of keg you will be using and which keg coupler is required to dispense from this keg.

    As a general rule, CUB and related breweries use D-Type Couplers, all other breweries use A-Type Couplers. S-Type Couplers are typically only used for fully imported beers.

    The following diagram shows the different ypes of spear available:

    Different commercial spear/coupler styles

    Once you have the correct coupler to suit your keg it will need to be assembled and connected to the beer and gas line.

    On a keg coupler there is an inlet for gas and an outlet for liquid. The gas inlet is positioned on a 45-degree angle and the liquid outlet is positioned vertically. It is important to connect the gas line and beer line to the correct inlet and outlet.

    Inside the KegLand coupler box you will find two types of one-way check valves: a gas duck bill valve and a liquid torpedo check piece.

    The duck bill valve is used for the gas inlet and the torpedo check piece or non-return ball is used for the liquid outlet. In a homebrew setting it may only be necessary to use a check valve in the gas inlet to prevent liquid flowing back in to the regulator.

    To install the gas duck bill valve, remove the black EPDM washer from inside the 5/8” duotight fitting on the gas inlet and then insert the gas duck bill valve into the opening (as shown below). Then screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler.

    To install the liquid torpedo check piece, remove the 5/8” duotight fitting keeping the black EPDM washer in place, then insert the ball and cage (in the order shown below) and then finally screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler. NOTE: The closed part of the cage must be at the top to hold the ball in place, otherwise this can block the beer from flowing.

    Prior to attaching the keg coupler onto the keg make sure that a gas line is connected to the gas inlet and this gas line is connected to a regulator and a beer line is connected to the liquid outlet and this beer line is connected to a tap. Attaching the keg to the keg coupler is usually the last step of the kegerator setup.

    Slide the keg coupler over the groove on the top of the keg then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg. NOTE: To fit a 50L keg with an A-type keg coupler into a kegerator or if your keg is a DIN style keg (tall skinny style) you will need to use a KL00390

    Push the coupler into the opening of the spear and then rotate firmly clockwise to attach the coupler to the spear. Then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg.

    More detailed instructions on how to assemble and operate a keg coupler can be seen in this video:

    Before connecting EVABarrier ito duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689

    If the EVABarrier has been used previousLY, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.

    Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.

    Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.

    NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.

    While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.

    Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.

    KegLand Commercial Couplers are supplied with duotight fittings that make connecting EVABarrier gas and beer line quite easy.

    However, if you plan on switching couplers or wish to use an alternative connection method that allows a bit more customisation, we recommend replacing the duotight fittings with Ball Lock Posts. When adding Ball Lock Posts to a coupler setup, it is recommended to also add a KL00390 which will make it easier to fit a 50L keg.

    You will also need a KL00840 and a KL00833 which will replace the duotight fittings on the coupler and allow you to use Ball Lock Disconnects on the beer and gas line instead

    Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

    Series 4 User Guide | Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

    Beer Line Diameter and Length Correlation

    To ensure you get a consistent pour with the correct amount of head it is important to ensure the length of beer is correlated with the internal diameter of the EVABarrier hose. The suggested length of beer line for each internal diameter is outlined below.

    To get a great pour with good head the length of the beer line needs to be adjusted according to the internal diameter of the line and to the carbonation level of the liquid being dispensed. Broadly speaking, the smaller the internal diameter of the beer line the less line is required to get a good flow. For that reason, the standard line used for beer line in all KegLand Font Kits is KL06224 4mm ID x 8mm OD Double Wall EVABarrier

    Please refer to this chart for a guide to appropriate beer line length for different diameter line:

    Beer Line Length Guide

    Internal Line DIameter
    Suggested Beer Line Length

    KegLand Font Kits come with pre-cut lengths of beer and gas line. These are typically sized to allow at least 1.5m per length and thus do not need to be cut down in size.

    If cutting your own lengths of beer line it is best to start at the upper end of the suggested range and cut the beer line down in size until the desired pour speed is achieved. The faster the pour, the more likely you will get too much head/foam in the glass and also a fast pour can 'knock' carbonation out of solution resulting in a beer with too much head but no carbonation!

    Thus, for example, if starting with 4mm ID line start with a 2m length and cut down in 100mm lengths until the desired pour is achieved.

    4mm ID line is often the best choice in a short draw (kegerator) setup as it means less overall length of beer line is required which means the kegerator will be less cluttered. It also reduces the amount of beer sitting in the lines between pours.

    To see how much beer is in the line (approximately) please refer to this table:

    Internal Diameter
    Minimum length of line
    Beer per metre in line (approx)
    Total beer in line (approx)

    The downside of 4mm ID beer line is that it is quite hard to fit over barbs. We highly recommend using duotight fittings instead as they are very easy to use and install. They can also be readily swapped out if required - for example, if you decide to change the number of taps and kegs in your setup. All KegLand kegerator kits come with duotight fittings as standard.

    If you are not sure about temperature, carbonation levels and CO2 pressure for serving, setting the kegerator to 2­°C and the regulator to 12psi is appropriate for most situations.

    To produce the perfect pour, a number of variables need to be balanced. These include the beer line length, carbonation level of the beer and storage temperature of the keg.

    The temperature of the beer in the keg correlates directly to the carbonation level. Thus, a beer at 4°C will have less carbonation than a beer at 2°C at the same CO2 pressure.

    For most styles of beer, you should be aiming for a carbonation level of between 2.2-2.8 volumes of carbonation. 2.6 volumes of carbonation can be considered a good average level for most beers. If you are unsure of the carbonation level of the beer IE If it is a commercial keg then assume it is at 2.6 volumes of carbonation.

    To achieve a specific carbonation level refer to this and match the temperature of the kegerator to the desired carbonation level. Typically kegerators would be set to maintain a temperature between 0-3°C. Typically, 2°C is the perfect temperature for most beer styles.

    The pressure at which you dispense the beer should be slightly higher than the carbonation pressure (~10% higher).

    For example, to carbonate to 2.6 volumes at 2°C you would carbonate the beer at approximately 11psi and then serve the beer at approximately 12psi.

    The pressure at which you serve the beer should be determined as above - thus the carbonation level determines the serving level. Do not try to fix a fast or slow pour by adjusting the pressure. Too low a pressure will result in flat beer, and too high a pressure will cause over-carbonation.

    If you think that you have over carbonated your beer you may need to release the Pressure in the keg and then set it to your desired pressure according to the carbonation chart above. Do not release pressure in the keg by pulling the PRV on the regulator as this can result in liquid being pulled into the regulator and potentially causing damage to the regulator.

    If you wish to have beers of different carbonation levels in the kegerator then you can use a KL10870 to have two different serving pressures. Alternatively a KL15035 can be installed on the gas lines which allows individual control of each line.

    This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

    Operation

    Series 4 User Guide | Operation

    Display Panel Legend

    Display Panel Legend
    1. Cooler (Down) Button

    2. Warmer (Up) Button

    3. Temperature

    4. Celsius/Fahrenheit Indicator

    5. Fan Indicator

    6. Celsius/Fahrenheit Button

    7. Fan Button

    To adjust the Set Point Temperature:

    1. Press and hold the Up button for 5 seconds. The display will flash and show the current Set Point Temperature. This is a Child Safety Lock feature to prevent accidentally changing the Set Point Temperature.

    2. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify and save the Set Point Temperature. When the display stops flashing the new Set Point Temperature will be saved.

    NOTE: The Up or Down buttons must be pressed repeatedly to change the temperature. The temperature will not continue to change if the button is held down - this is a child lock feature.

    To change the displayed temperature between Celsius and Fahrenheit press the °F/°C button. Press it again to revert to the previous units.

    The fan is designed for continuous operation. This will help maintain a consistent temperature. In addition, directing the font fan conduit inside the font can assist with keeping the taps and beer lines cold, which helps to minimise 'first beer foam' issues. If desired the fan can be turned on and off manually using the Fan Button. When the fan is on, the fan icon will be displayed.

    If there is a large variance between the displayed temperature (IE the temperature of the internal temperature probe and the actual internal temperature of the kegerator (as measured by a calibrated thermometer) then the Temperature Offset can be adjusted from -10°C to 10°C

    A Temperature Offset will offset the displayed temperature by the entered amount.

    Thus, if the displayed temperature is 2°C but the actual internal temperature is 4°C, an offset of +2°C is required.

    Note: In most cases this is not necessary to be adjusted. There will be minor temperature differences in the kegerator due to airflow etc.

    1. Press and hold the Up and Down buttons for approx 5 seconds - until the display flashes SC

    2. Once the display flashes SC, release the Up or Down buttons and press the °F/°C button. This will display the current Offset Temperature (which should be 0°)

    The exterior of the kegerator can be cleaned with a damp microfibre cloth and a mild spray cleaner. Stainless polish may be used on stainless surfaces (such as fonts etc). or solutions may also be used instead.

    Monitor the evaporator plate (at the back of the kegerator on top of the compressor). In normal use this should not be filled with water as the heat generated by the compressor will evaporate normal levels of water. If there is excessive water in the evaporator plate or it is overflowing please refer to

    The interior of the kegerator may be cleaned in the same manner. It is not uncommon for some mould to be present inside the kegerator due to the nature of use. If present, clean with a mild mould remover spray and a damp microfibre cloth. Be careful to not get mould spray on any fittings such as keg posts or disconnects.

    Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

    Beer Line Diameter and Length Correlation

    To ensure you get a consistent pour with the correct amount of head it is important to ensure the length of beer is correlated with the internal diameter of the EVABarrier hose. The suggested length of beer line for each internal diameter is outlined below.

    To get a great pour with good head the length of the beer line needs to be adjusted according to the internal diameter of the line and to the carbonation level of the liquid being dispensed. Broadly speaking, the smaller the internal diameter of the beer line the less line is required to get a good flow. For that reason, the standard line used for beer line in all KegLand Font Kits is KL06224 4mm ID x 8mm OD Double Wall EVABarrier

    Please refer to this chart for a guide to appropriate beer line length for different diameter line:

    Beer Line Length Guide

    Internal Line DIameter
    Suggested Beer Line Length

    KegLand Font Kits come with pre-cut lengths of beer and gas line. These are typically sized to allow at least 1.5m per length and thus do not need to be cut down in size.

    If cutting your own lengths of beer line it is best to start at the upper end of the suggested range and cut the beer line down in size until the desired pour speed is achieved. The faster the pour, the more likely you will get too much head/foam in the glass and also a fast pour can 'knock' carbonation out of solution resulting in a beer with too much head but no carbonation!

    Thus, for example, if starting with 4mm ID line start with a 2m length and cut down in 100mm lengths until the desired pour is achieved.

    4mm ID line is often the best choice in a short draw (kegerator) setup as it means less overall length of beer line is required which means the kegerator will be less cluttered. It also reduces the amount of beer sitting in the lines between pours.

    To see how much beer is in the line (approximately) please refer to this table:

    Internal Diameter
    Minimum length of line
    Beer per metre in line (approx)
    Total beer in line (approx)

    The downside of 4mm ID beer line is that it is quite hard to fit over barbs. We highly recommend using duotight fittings instead as they are very easy to use and install. They can also be readily swapped out if required - for example, if you decide to change the number of taps and kegs in your setup. All KegLand kegerator kits come with duotight fittings as standard.

    If you are not sure about temperature, carbonation levels and CO2 pressure for serving, setting the kegerator to 2­°C and the regulator to 12psi is appropriate for most situations.

    To produce the perfect pour, a number of variables need to be balanced. These include the beer line length, carbonation level of the beer and storage temperature of the keg.

    The temperature of the beer in the keg correlates directly to the carbonation level. Thus, a beer at 4°C will have less carbonation than a beer at 2°C at the same CO2 pressure.

    For most styles of beer, you should be aiming for a carbonation level of between 2.2-2.8 volumes of carbonation. 2.6 volumes of carbonation can be considered a good average level for most beers. If you are unsure of the carbonation level of the beer IE If it is a commercial keg then assume it is at 2.6 volumes of carbonation.

    To achieve a specific carbonation level refer to this and match the temperature of the kegerator to the desired carbonation level. Typically kegerators would be set to maintain a temperature between 0-3°C. Typically, 2°C is the perfect temperature for most beer styles.

    The pressure at which you dispense the beer should be slightly higher than the carbonation pressure (~10% higher).

    For example, to carbonate to 2.6 volumes at 2°C you would carbonate the beer at approximately 11psi and then serve the beer at approximately 12psi.

    The pressure at which you serve the beer should be determined as above - thus the carbonation level determines the serving level. Do not try to fix a fast or slow pour by adjusting the pressure. Too low a pressure will result in flat beer, and too high a pressure will cause over-carbonation.

    If you think that you have over carbonated your beer you may need to release the Pressure in the keg and then set it to your desired pressure according to the carbonation chart above. Do not release pressure in the keg by pulling the PRV on the regulator as this can result in liquid being pulled into the regulator and potentially causing damage to the regulator.

    If you wish to have beers of different carbonation levels in the kegerator then you can use a KL10870 to have two different serving pressures. Alternatively a KL15035 can be installed on the gas lines which allows individual control of each line.

    This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the regulator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

    Setup & Assembly

    Grand Deluxe 3 | Setup & Assembly

    Video Guide

    Please refer to this video for a detailed walkthrough on assembling a kegerator. This is specific to the Series X range, but most of the information is relevant to all kegerator setups

    Setup & Assembly

    Before plugging in the unit, ensure it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours after movement

    Tools Required: Philips head screwdriver and wrench or spanner

    Preparation

    • Cut the straps securing the carton. WIth the assistance of another person, carefully lift the carton off the Grand Deluxe

    • Remove the protective foam and plastic cover

    • Remove any protective plastic from the kegerator before first use

    • Using a Philips head screwdriver, carefully unscrew the brackets that secure the Grand Deluxe to the shipping pallet

    Using the supplied bolts, carefully install the castors in each corner and the middle of the Grand Deluxe. If tiliting the unit to install the castor wheels, ensure that the unit is left upright for 24 hours before turning on.

    The contersunk drip trays are plumbed inside and outside the Grand Deluxe. The drain tube can be emptied into a bucket or similar and simply emptied periodically, or (using the external barb) this can be drained directly to a suitable floor drain.

    • Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    • Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and ensure there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    • Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 faucet tap wrench/spanner

    • The Mk4 regulator comes as standard with an 8mm x FFL duotight Fitting ()

    • Make sure the end of the EVABarrier hose doesn’t have any burrs and is cut straight and cleanly. Push the EVABarrier hose line firmly into the duotight fitting on the regulator and ensure it is secure up to the line indicated on the 8mm x FFL duotight fitting

    • On the right hand side of the Grand Deluxe is a gas port. This will need to be drilled out (we recommend an 8mm bit for a good fit) to accomodate the gas line.

    1. Remove the cap from the top of the font and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks

    2. Feed the length of beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font

    3. Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank

    1. First, attach the font to the top of the kegerator using four metric M5 stainless steel screws. The mounting points can be found on the inside of the font and can be attached using a long screwdriver or flexible drill bit

    2. Then attach the duotight compatible short shanks, duotight 6.5mm x 8mm reducer and beer line to the font tower as described in step 11. It is easiest to attach the shanks to the font tower in the order shown

    3. Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator.

    Preparation & Setup

    Series X User Guide | Preparation & Setup

    Installation & Setup

    Preparation

    Remove and check all items from inside the kegerator

    Remove any protective film and tape from the kegerator

    Inspect kegerator for any damage that may have incurred in transit including liquid or oil marks inside packaging. If any damage is noted contact your retailer

    Castor Wheels Installation

    Make sure the kegerator is empty

    Carefully lay the kegerator on its side on a soft surface such as carpet, cardboard or a towel. NOTE: Ensure the kegerator is tipped onto the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues

    Unscrew the feet from the base of the kegerator

    Remove the screws in the base of the kegerator in each corner. These are pre-installed screws that are used to mount the castor wheels. NOTE: These can be quite tight from the factory. A 5/16" socket or wrench will allow more leverage than a Philips driver if required

    The two locking castor wheels should be installed towards the front of the kegerator

    Position the kegerator back upright and leave for a minimum 1 hour before turning it on to allow the refrigerant gas to settle. If installing the castors shortly after receiving the kegerator, leave the kegerator upright for a minimum of 24 hours before turning it on

    NOTE: The screw holes may be filled with foam and have a foil covering. If this is the case push and thread the screws through the foam or foil. The screw will then catch on the thread allowing it to be screwed in completely

    Position the guard rail so the feet line up with the holes in the top of the kegerator

    Push the feet of the railing firmly into the holes

    Align the four holes in the bracket with the four studs on the back of the kegerator

    Insert the studs into the holes and then push the bracket down firmly to secure it

    Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench

    Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder using the knurled grip. MK5 Regulators can be hand tightened due to the new spigot seal design that easily compresses

    The MK4 regulator comes as standard with a

    Thread the KL06880 duotight fitting onto the regulator by hand, then tighten gently with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench. NOTE: DO not over tighten as this may cause the duotight fitting to split

    Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut

    Push the line firmly into the KL06880 duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)

    The MK5 regulator comes as standard with an 8mm duotight ball valve and integrated check valve

    Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut

    Push the line firmly into the duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted fully (approx.22mm)

    Ensure the ball valve is opened before using the MK5 Regulator

    Unscrew one of the caps on the back of the Series X and feed the EVABarrier gas line through the hole

    The gas port threads can be easily converted to allow a gas disconnect connection, which is quite convenient for disconnecting the gas line from the kegerator. This is optional

    You will need 1 x Carbonation Cap, 1 x Gas Disconnect, 1 x 8mm x 6.35mm duotight reducer

    Screw the Carbonation Cap onto the gas inlet thread at the back of the kegerator

    Cut the 8mm EVABarrier gas line to the correct length so that it easily reaches from the regulator to the Carbonation Cap

    Fit the Gas Disconnect onto the end of the gas line, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)

    FIt the 8mm x 6.35mm duotight reducer onto the corresponding barb of the Carbonation Cap inside the kegerator. The gas line(s) inside the kegerator will then attach directly to this duotight fitting

    Connect the Gas Disconnect to the Carbonation Cap to complete the assembly

    Please refer to the for a detailed guide on the different types of fonts

    Please refer to the for assembly instructions for the different types of beer and gas connections

    Please refer to the for details on getting the system balanced for a great pour

    Important Information & Warnings

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Important Information

    Warnings

    This instruction sheet contains vital information that is related to the safe usage and handling of the FermZilla Tri-Conical Unitank.

    It is vital that you read this instruction sheet from front to back before using the product!

    THIS IS FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY WHEN USING A PRESSURISABLE FERMENTAION VESSEL

    1. Do not loosen the tri-clover clamps when the FermZilla is under pressure. Purge all pressure in the FermZilla and the collection container before loosening the tri-clover clamps

    2. When not under pressure do not expose to liquids above 55°C (131°F). Only clean, wash or sanitise the fermenter with cold water

    3. When under pressure do not expose to any temperatures above 35°C (95°F)

    4. Keep the fermenter out of direct sun or heat. Do not expose to UV rays of any sort

    5. If using a heat belt to warm the fermenter then only have the heat belt sitting below the liquid level. Do not use an unregulated heat source, only use heat sources which are plugged into a temperature controller

    6. Under no circumstances apply more than 2.5bar (35psi) to the fermenter. Do not connect an unregulated pressure source. If you connect external pressure source ensure it has independent PRV pre-set to 35psi or below

    7. A spunding valve set below 35psi must always be connected to the FermZilla when fermenting under pressure or connected to the recipient keg when performing a closed transfer. Recommended range for pressure fermenting is 10-12psi

    8. Do not tamper with the pressure relief valve. Only use the red or yellow coloured pressure relief valve supplied by KegLand

    9. If vigorous fermentation is experienced and krausen or wort has contacted the PRV, ensure the PRV is removed and cleaned before putting the FermZilla under pressure

    10. If the fermenter is scratched, damaged or has been under any physical duress; do not use the fermenter under pressure without hydro-testing

    11. If you use the fermenter under pressure hydro test the fermenter every 24 months to ensure it is safe to use

    12. Only use chemical cleaners and sanitizers that are approved by Kegland. These include: KL05371 (effective for sanitising the exterior of the FermZilla) , KL05357 (mixed to the correct dilution), KL05494 (not to be left in the FermZilla for more than 30 minutes), KL07405 . Or contact for more information regarding other compatible chemical cleaning products

    13. Always keep the butterfly valve open during fermentation. Only close the butterfly valve once fermentation has ceased and hydrometer readings are stable for 3 consecutive days

    14. Open the butterfly valve and ensure the system (including the collection container) is depressurized prior to removing the collection container

    15. Do not over tighten carbonation caps onto the threads of the lid or collection container. Doing so can result in the thread being stripped or cracked. We recommend using KL10788 Multi Gas Post Plastic Carbonation Cap (available in (gas) and (liquid)

    16. Do not over tighten the stainless-steel handles onto the neck of the FermZilla

    17. Avoid lifting the FermZilla while full. If filled with wort avoid moving the FermZilla to prevent sticky wort from preventing the PRV from operating

    18. Always conduct a leak test prior to beginning fermentation

    19. Lubricating the Butterfly valve gate and all O-rings will prolong the life of the unit. We recommend

    20. When fermenting under pressure, a PRV alone is not sufficient. A must be used to ensure pressure dos not build beyond safe limits.

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | User Guide

    KL15189 | KL15196 | FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | User Guide

    Introducing the FermZilla All Rounder

    The FermZilla All Rounder is the perfect fermentation vessel that can be used for fermenting under pressure, carbonating and dispensing. It's far more capable than the FermZilla Flat bottom but it's less complicated and less expensive than the Gen3 FermZilla Tri-Conical.

    Just like the name says - this is the All Rounder!

    Easy to Clean This fermenter is made from super smooth PET so it's easy to clean. Just use a small scoop of StellarClean (Powerful Brewery Wash) and wipe it clean after a 5 minute soak. No scrubbing necessary!

    Large 120mm Opening The opening at the top is much larger then the older Snub Nose or other similar fermenters. This bad boy has a 120mm opening so even brewers with large arms can easily get into the top making cleaning even easier.

    Pressure Rated This fermenter is rated up to 2.5bar so you can force carbonate just like a keg. You can use this fermenter for closed transfers and significantly reduce oxygen exposure.

    Crystal Clear The wall of the All Rounder is crystal clear so you can see what's going on inside. This means you can see exactly what is happening at all stages during fermentation, which is a massive boon for new and experienced brewers!

    Impermeable The PET plastic is not permeable like some other fermenters made from PP or HDPE. The fermenter wall is a much better gas barrier keeping your product fresher for longer, and will massively cut down on the potential for oxidation or infection

    Brew with confidence in the new Tri-Clover FermZilla Range.

    The FermZilla allows many of the benefits of much more expensive stainless conical fermenters but with the additional benefit of being able to see the fermentation process in action and also ferment at pressures up to 2.4bar. This is an incredible product at an extremely attractive price point in all the different sizes and models.

    Setup & Operation

    KL15868 Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator | Setup & Operation

    The Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator is a fantastically versatile regulator. There are two outputs with different orientations, either of which can be fitted with an included MFL fitting or a 6.35mm duoptight barb. To swap outputs please refer to

    There are several different ways to connect gas tubing and/or disconnects to the Mini 360. For example, you can use a KL24242 duotight 6.35mm (1/4'') x Ball Lock Disconnect - (Grey + Red Gas) on the 6.35mm barb at a right angle for use (for example) on a 19L cornelius Keg (see below.

    Connecting the Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator directly to a keg in this manner is thus extremely simple to setup.

    Doutight Disonnects are ideal for the Mini 360. It is recommended to use the included 6.35mm duotight barb fitting. Install this in the desired output first, and blank off the unused output if required.

    Identifying & Fixing Leaks

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Identifying & Fixing Leaks

    If you suspect that your FermZilla has a leak it is important to properly test this.

    Leak testing is not typically viable when fermentation is in progress. It is also possible to mis-identify the FermZilla as having a leak due to factors such as CO2 dissolving into solution (during cold crash, for example) or other factors.

    Unless the tank itself is cracked (in which case it will need to be replaced) then the All Rounder range can only leak from the lid or neck of the FermZilla.

    There are two ways to test and identify the location of a leak.

    1. Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with

    Cleaning

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Cleaning

    Cleaning is essential in order to ensure that you have trouble free fermentation and minimise the risk of infection or contamination. The recommended cleaner for the FermZilla range is . may also be used however it is important to limit contact time to 30 minutes or less as prolonged contact time with StellarClean PBW can degrade PET. StellarOxy is sufficient in most situations. StellarCleam PBW can be more effective on oils (for example, if using a large amount of dry hops in the FermZilla it can be preferable to use StellarClean.

    Once cleaned the FermZilla should also be sanitised. is the recommended sanitiser for interior surfaces. For exterior fittings such as carbonation caps etc, we recommend spraying with

    NOTE: The FermZilla must be cleaned and sanitised before use.

    1. Carefully release all pressure from the FermZilla vessel and collection container

    Assembly

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Assembly

    1. Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached

    2. Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring

    3. Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring

    Filling Process

    Talos Keg | Equipment Required

    1

    Spray the head of the keg and the filling coupler thoroughly with a food-safe disinfectant. We recommend using ethanol.

    2

    Open the liquid ball valve on the coupler to prime the beverage lines, completely purging them of all air and residual sanitiser.

    (If possible) Weigh the CO2 cylinder

  • Wait at least 12 hours

  • Test the keg(s) by pulling the PRV. If no CO2 is released then the keg may have a leak.
  • Once the general location of the leak has been determined by isolation testing, perform a Detergent Bubble Test in order to locate the leak precisely.

  • NOTE: It is safe to submerge duotight fittings and EVABarrier in water when locating leaks. Regulators cannot be safely immersed

    Perform a Pressure Decay Test

    Test System

    (If possible) Weigh the CO2 cylinder

  • Wait at least 12 hours

  • Test the keg(s) by pulling the PRV. If no CO2 is released then the keg may have a leak.
  • Once the general location of the leak has been determined by isolation testing, perform a Detergent Bubble Test in order to locate the leak precisely.

  • NOTE: It is safe to submerge duotight fittings and EVABarrier in water when locating leaks. Regulators cannot be safely immersed

    Perform a Pressure Decay Test

    Test System

    (If possible) Weigh the CO2 cylinder

  • Wait at least 12 hours

  • Test the keg(s) by pulling the PRV. If no CO2 is released then the keg may have a leak.
  • Once the general location of the leak has been determined by isolation testing, perform a Detergent Bubble Test in order to locate the leak precisely.

  • NOTE: It is safe to submerge duotight fittings and EVABarrier in water when locating leaks. Regulators cannot be safely immersed

    Perform a Pressure Decay Test

    Test System

    (If possible) Weigh the CO2 cylinder

  • Wait at least 12 hours

  • Test the keg(s) by pulling the PRV. If no CO2 is released then the keg may have a leak.
  • Once the general location of the leak has been determined by isolation testing, perform a Detergent Bubble Test in order to locate the leak precisely.

  • NOTE: It is safe to submerge duotight fittings and EVABarrier in water when locating leaks. Regulators cannot be safely immersed

    Perform a Pressure Decay Test

    Test System

    Chrome Plated Guard Rail Installation

    CO2 Cylinder Bracket Installation (optional)

    Installing Regulator onto the CO2 Cylinder

    KL07429 MK4 Regulator

    KL30670 MK5 Regulator

    Attach 8mm EVABarrier gas line to the Regulator

    KL07429 MK4 Regulator

    KL30670 MK5 Regulator

    Feed the 8mm EVABarrier gas line into the Kegerator

    Setup Font, Taps and Beer line(s)

    Connect gas & beer lines to coupler or disconnects

    Balance Beer Lines and Carbonation levels

    KL06880 8mm x FFL duotight fitting
    Font Assembly
    Keg Types guide
    Balancing Kegerator Lines & CO2 guide

    Chrome Plated Guard Rail Installation

    CO2 Cylinder Bracket Installation (optional)

    Installing Regulator onto the CO2 Cylinder

    KL07429 MK4 Regulator

    KL30670 MK5 Regulator

    Attach 8mm EVABarrier gas line to the Regulator

    KL07429 MK4 Regulator

    KL30670 MK5 Regulator

    Feed the 8mm EVABarrier gas line into the Kegerator

    Convert Gas Line to Quick Disconnect Fitting (optional)

    Setup Font, Taps and Beer line(s)

    Connect gas & beer lines to coupler or disconnects

    Balance Beer Lines and Carbonation levels

    KL06880 8mm x FFL duotight fitting
    KL10788
    KL20756
    KL07481
    KL10788
    KL20756
    KL07481
    Font Assembly
    Keg Types guide
    Balancing Kegerator Lines & CO2 guide
    Alternative Gas Bulkhead Fitting

    Chrome Plated Guard Rail Installation

    CO2 Cylinder Bracket Installation (optional)

    Installing Regulator onto the CO2 Cylinder

    KL07429 MK4 Regulator

    KL30670 MK5 Regulator

    Attach 8mm EVABarrier gas line to the Regulator

    KL07429 MK4 Regulator

    KL30670 MK5 Regulator

    Feed the 8mm EVABarrier gas line into the Kegerator

    Convert Gas Line to Quick Disconnect Fitting (optional)

    Setup Font, Taps and Beer line(s)

    Connect gas & beer lines to coupler or disconnects

    Balance Beer Lines and Carbonation levels

    KL06880 8mm x FFL duotight fitting
    KL10788
    KL20756
    KL07481
    KL10788
    KL20756
    KL07481
    Font Assembly
    Keg Types guide
    Balancing Kegerator Lines & CO2 guide
    Alternative Gas Bulkhead Fitting
    Ethyl Sanitiser Spray
    StellarSan
    StellarClean PBW
    StellarOxy
    https://www.kegland.com.au/
    red
    yellow
    Haynes Food Grade Lube
    Spunding Valve
    Using a Spunding Valve to ferment under Pressure
    Using a Spunding Valve to ferment under Pressure
    Using a Spunding Valve to ferment under Pressure

    2m

    20ml

    40ml

    6mm

    3m

    28ml

    84ml

    4mm

    1.5 metres – 2 metres

    5mm

    2 metres – 3 metres

    6.35mm

    3 metres – 4 metres

    4mm

    1.5m

    12.5ml

    19ml

    Balancing the Kegerator with CO2

    Carbonation Chart

    Carbonation Chart
    dual pressure regulator
    inline regulator

    5mm

    2m

    20ml

    40ml

    6mm

    3m

    28ml

    84ml

    4mm

    1.5 metres – 2 metres

    5mm

    2 metres – 3 metres

    6.35mm

    3 metres – 4 metres

    4mm

    1.5m

    12.5ml

    19ml

    Balancing the Kegerator with CO2

    Carbonation Chart

    Carbonation Chart
    dual pressure regulator
    inline regulator

    5mm

    2m

    20ml

    40ml

    6mm

    3m

    28ml

    84ml

    4mm

    1.5 metres – 2 metres

    5mm

    2 metres – 3 metres

    6.35mm

    3 metres – 4 metres

    4mm

    1.5m

    12.5ml

    19ml

    Balancing the Kegerator with CO2

    Carbonation Chart

    Carbonation Chart
    dual pressure regulator
    inline regulator

    5mm

    2m

    20ml

    40ml

    6mm

    3m

    28ml

    84ml

    4mm

    1.5 metres – 2 metres

    5mm

    2 metres – 3 metres

    6.35mm

    3 metres – 4 metres

    4mm

    1.5m

    12.5ml

    19ml

    Balancing the Kegerator with CO2

    Carbonation Chart

    Carbonation Chart
    dual pressure regulator
    inline regulator

    5mm

    Commercial Keg Couplers

    Keg Coupler Assembly

    How to use Keg Couplers

    A-Type Keg Coupler

    D-Type and S-Type Couplers

    Inserting EVABarrier hose into duotight fittings

    Removing EVABarrier Hose from duotight fittings

    Using Ball Lock DIsconnects with Commercial Couplers

    Low Profile Elbow Bend
    Tube Cutter
    Low Profile Elbow Bend
    Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Liquid
    Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Gas
    Inlet/outlet | A Type Keg Coupler
    Using a 7 in 1 tool to remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting
    Couplers adapted for Ball Lock Posts
    Commercial Keg Couplers

    Keg Coupler Assembly

    How to use Keg Couplers

    A-Type Keg Coupler

    D-Type and S-Type Couplers

    Inserting EVABarrier hose into duotight fittings

    Removing EVABarrier Hose from duotight fittings

    Using Ball Lock DIsconnects with Commercial Couplers

    Low Profile Elbow Bend
    Tube Cutter
    Low Profile Elbow Bend
    Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Liquid
    Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Gas
    Inlet/outlet | A Type Keg Coupler
    Using a 7 in 1 tool to remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting
    Couplers adapted for Ball Lock Posts
    Commercial Keg Couplers

    Keg Coupler Assembly

    How to use Keg Couplers

    A-Type Keg Coupler

    D-Type and S-Type Couplers

    Inserting EVABarrier hose into duotight fittings

    Removing EVABarrier Hose from duotight fittings

    Using Ball Lock DIsconnects with Commercial Couplers

    Low Profile Elbow Bend
    Tube Cutter
    Low Profile Elbow Bend
    Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Liquid
    Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Gas
    Inlet/outlet | A Type Keg Coupler
    Using a 7 in 1 tool to remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting
    Couplers adapted for Ball Lock Posts
    Commercial Keg Couplers
    Series X
    Cut this section into approx 2 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

  • Cut this section into approx 3 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

    Triple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

  • Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

  • EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Single Font Kit only)

    EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Double, Triple or Quad Font Kit)

    Double Font

    Triple Font

    Quad Font

    liquid ball lock disconnect
    keg coupler
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    commercial (brewery made)
    homebrew
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    Attach duotight reducer to short shank
    Tightening Short Shank with 7 in 1 tool
    Double Gas Line Configuration
    Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Temperature Offset (from 10°C to -10°C)
  • Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 5 seconds)

  • The display will revert to the current kegerator temperature. This will be different to the value displayed before the offset adjustment was made if the operation was performed correctly.

  • Adjusting the Set Point Temperature

    Change Display between Celsius and Fahrenheit

    Fan Operation

    Temperature Calibration

    To Adjust the Offset

    Cleaning Kegerator

    StellarClean PBW
    StellarOxy
    Troubleshooting
    Cut this section into approx 2 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

  • Cut this section into approx 3 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

    Triple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

  • Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

  • EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Single Font Kit only)

    EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Double, Triple or Quad Font Kit)

    Double Font

    Triple Font

    Quad Font

    liquid ball lock disconnect
    keg coupler
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    commercial (brewery made)
    homebrew
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    Attach duotight reducer to short shank
    Tightening Short Shank with 7 in 1 tool
    Double Gas Line Configuration
    Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Temperature Offset (from 10°C to -10°C)
  • Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 5 seconds)

  • The display will revert to the current kegerator temperature. This will be different to the value displayed before the offset adjustment was made if the operation was performed correctly.

  • Adjusting the Set Point Temperature

    Change Display between Celsius and Fahrenheit

    Fan Operation

    Temperature Calibration

    To Adjust the Offset

    Cleaning Kegerator

    StellarClean PBW
    StellarOxy
    Troubleshooting
    Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Temperature Offset (from 10°C to -10°C)
  • Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 5 seconds)

  • The display will revert to the current kegerator temperature. This will be different to the value displayed before the offset adjustment was made if the operation was performed correctly.

  • Adjusting the Set Point Temperature

    Change Display between Celsius and Fahrenheit

    Fan Operation

    Temperature Calibration

    To Adjust the Offset

    Cleaning Kegerator

    StellarClean PBW
    StellarOxy
    Troubleshooting

    The gas tubing can then be fed through the gas port into the kegerator. The gas line will also need to be tee'd off if you have two or more taps (duotight tee pieces included with Font Kit)

    Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font
  • Push each length of beer line into a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

  • Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower

  • Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

  • Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

  • Attach the font to the top of the kegerator by screwing the font onto the font mounting points using four metric M5 stainless steel screws.

  • Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a liquid ball lock disconnect or keg coupler

  • Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

  • Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

  • Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a ball lock disconnect or keg coupler
  • Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

  • Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

  • Install Castors

    Plumb Drip Tray(s)

    Installing MK4 Regulator onto CO2 Cylinder

    Attach EVABarrier to the regulator

    Assembling Font Kits

    Single, Double and Triple Tap Fonts

    Quadruple Tap Font

    KL06880
    TIghtening Short Shank
    KL24242 duotight 6.35mm (1/4'') x Ball Lock Disconnect - (Grey + Red Gas) This is directly compatible with the included 6.35mm duotight barb. simply push the disconnect directly onto the barb, ensuring that it is fitted up to the indicator on the disconnect. These are the recommended duotight Disconnects to use with the Mini 360.

    KL20756 duotight 8mm (5/16) x Ball Lock Disconnect - (Grey + Red Gas) First, connect a KL42642 duotight - 8mm (5/16'') Male x 6.35mm (1/4'') Female Reducer to the included 6.35mm duotight barb. Then connect the 8mm duotight Disconnect to the corresponding 8mm male barb

    KL20770 duotight 9.5mm (3.8) x Ball Lock Disconnect - (Grey + Red Gas) First, connect a KL08648 duotight - 6.35mm (1/4'')Female x 9.5mm (3/8'') Female Reducer to the included 6.35mm duotight barb. Then use a KL45735 Rigid Stainless Steel Joiner 6.5mm ID x 9.5mm OD (3/8) x 60mm Long to connect the 9.5mm duotight Disconnect

    Installing KL02967 Premium Ball Lock Disconnect - MFL (Grey/Gas)

    It is generally best to use the output immediately below the gauge when connecting the Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator to a KL02967 Premium Ball Lock Disconnect - MFL (Grey/Gas). Ensure the FFL outlet is installed in this orientation then thread the disconnect onto the FFL thread. No nylon flare washer is required to seal in this configuration

    Installing stainless MFL Disconnects (KL03001 Stainless Gas Lock Disconnect MFL Thread & KL09546 Machined Stainless Ball Lock Disconnect - MFL Thread (Black/Liquid)

    It is generally best to use the output adjacent to the gauge when connecting the Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator to a stainless MFL Disconnect. Ensure the FFL outlet is installed in this orientation then thread the disconnect onto the FFL thread.

    A KL03032 nylon flare washer is required to seal in this configuration

    You may wish to connect the gas ball lock disconnect to the Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator with a length of tubing rather than directly. This can be useful if using the Mini 360 with a jockey box or similar. It is also generally better when using the Mini 360 to charge PET kegs such as the OXEBAR kegs, as these are much lighter than stainless kegs and thus may not directly support the weight of the regulator.

    EABarrier tubing is recommended, as it is directly compatible with the included 6.35mm duotight barbed outlet.

    1. Install the included 6.35mm duotight barbed outlet in the output of choice

    2. Attach a suitable duotight joiner or reducer to the barb. See chart below. Ensure it is firmly seated.

    3. Push the end of the correctly sized EVABarrier into the duotight fitting, ensuring it is cut clean and square and is fully inserted.

    6.35mm OD EVABarrier - use KL37259 duotight - 6.35mm (1/4'') Female x 6.35mm (1/4'') Female Push In Joiner

    8mm OD EVABarrier - use KL07481 duotight - 6.35mm (1/4'') Female x 8mm (5/16'') Female Reducer

    9.5mm OD EVABarrier - use KL08648 duotight - 6.35mm (1/4'')Female x 9.5mm (3/8'') Female Reducer

    If you wish to use non duotight compatible tubing (such as vnyl tubing) or if you prefer to use clamps rather than duotight fittings then use the included 6.35mm duotight barb. Once this is installed in the output of choice then push the end of the tubing over the barb and secure with a suitable stepless clamp.

    KL06682 10.5mm S.S. Stepless Clamps (suit 7-10mm OD) are generally a good fit, although this can depend on the OD (outer diamter) of the line.

    If you find it difficult to get the tubing over the barb you can heat it up in warm or hot water and stretch the internal diameter using needle nose pliers. NOTE: 4mm ID EVABarrier is very difficult to stretch over a 6.35mm barb and is not recommended for that reason. Use duotight fittings instead.

    When using EVABarrier tubing with the Mini 260 Core Actuator Regulator, it is easy to tee off the gas line to carbonate and/or dispense multiple kegs at once.

    Simply use an appropriate tee piece to split the line as required - one tee pice services two kegs, two tee pieces service three kegs etc.

    Monotight - 6.35mm(1/4inch) Tee Piece

    duotight – 8mm (5/16”) Female x 8mm (5/16”) Female Tee Piece

    duotight - 9.5mm (3/8”) Female x 9.5mm (3/8”) Female Tee Piece

    KL06149 16g CO­2 cartridges are a great portable option for dispensing on the go with smaller volume kegs. They are not suggested for use for both carbonating and dispensing as this will require a large number of gas bulbs to be used, typically with about 6g per litre of CO2 used for carbonating and 6g per litre of CO2 used for dispensing.

    1. Ensure you have the 16g CO­2 reducing bush tightened onto the inlet

    2. Unscrew the thumb screw. Do not unscrew until there is thread exposed on the thumb screw - we want the actuator pin sufficently retracted so that the bulb can be inserted without piercing the bulb

    3. Screw the 16g CO2 bulb into the reducing bush

    4. Screw the thumb screw in to pierce the CO2 bulb

    5. Ensure a seal is formed between the gas bulb and the regulator. Tighten more if needed but do not over tighten the CO2 bulb into the reducing bush. Over tightening can result in no gas being able to pass through the regulator

    6. Perform a leak test to ensure an adequate seal has been formed

    KL16889 74g Big Bulb Disposable CO2 Bulbs are perfect for parties, picnics and gatherings where you are dispensing more beer than might be viable with the smaller 16g bulbs.. They are not suggested for use for both carbonating and dispensing as this will require a large number of gas bulbs to be used, typically with about 6g per litre of CO2 used for carbonating and 6g per litre of CO2 used for dispensing.

    NOTE: Requires an optional bushing KL20213 Mini 360 Core Adaptor for 74gram Cartridge/Bulb (G1/2 Male x 5/8-18UNF Female) NOT INCLUDED

    1. Thread the optional KL20213 74g Cartridge Adapter into the Mini 360. You will need to first remove the 16g bulb bushing if installed. Ensure it is snug but not over-tightened

    2. Unscrew the thumb screw. Do not unscrew until there is thread exposed on the thumb screw - we want the actuator pin sufficently retracted so that the bulb can be inserted without piercing the bulb

    3. Screw the 74g Big Bulb CO2 bulb into the reducing bush

    4. Screw the thumb screw in to pierce the CO2 bulb

    5. Ensure a seal is formed between the gas bulb and the regulator. Tighten more if needed but do not over tighten the CO2 bulb into the reducing bush. Over tightening can result in no gas being able to pass through the regulator

    6. Perform a leak test to ensure an adequate seal has been formed

    If you were looking for a more cost-effective but still portable CO2 source than CO2 bulbs a Sodastream cylinder or Sodastream Compatible Cylinder can be used. This doesn’t require an adaptor to be used. Using a Mini 360 Regulator with a Sodastream Compatible Cylinder can also be a great option for kegerators or fermenting chambers if space is limited.

    1. Unscrew the 16g bulb reducing bush on the inlet Iif fitted)

    2. Unscrew the thumb screw. Do not unscrew until there is thread exposed on the thumb screw - we want the actuator pin sufficently retracted so that the bulb can be inserted without engaging the poppet of the Sodastream cylinder

    3. Screw the Sodastream cylinder into the regulator, making sure to hold the neck of the Sodastream cylinder in place while attaching and detaching

    4. Screw the thumb screw in to depress the valve on the Sodastream cylinder

    5. Ensure a seal is formed between the cylinder and the regulator. Tighten more if needed but do not over tighten the Sodastream cylinder into the reducing bush. Over tightening can result in no gas being able to pass through the regulator

    6. Perform a leak test to ensure an adequate seal has been formed

    The Mini 360 Core Actuating Regulator is a fantastic option for regulating nitrogen from a KL25317 2.2L Nitrogen Disposable Gas Cylinder (N2).

    NOTE: Requires an optional bushing KL32087 Nitrogen Adaptor for Mini 360 Core Regualtor NOT INCLUDED

    1. Thread the optional KL20213 74g Cartridge Adapter into the Mini 360. You will need to first remove the 16g bulb bushing if installed. Ensure it is snug but not over-tightened

    2. Unscrew the thumb screw. Do not unscrew until there is thread exposed on the thumb screw - we want the actuator pin sufficently retracted so that the bulb can be inserted without engaging the poppet of the Sodastream cylinder

    3. Screw the disposable M10 threaded N2 cylinder into the regulator, making sure to hold the neck of the cylinder in place while attaching and detaching. Do not overtighten. These are a face sealing bushing so do not need to be super tight to seal. Over tightening the bushing or the cylinder can cause damage to the seal and can also block the flow of gas.

    4. Screw the thumb screw in to depress the valve on the N2 cylinder

    5. Ensure a seal is formed between the cylinder and the regulator. Tighten more if needed but do not over tighten the N2 cylinder into the reducing bush. Over tightening can result in no gas being able to pass through the regulator

    6. Perform a leak test to ensure an adequate seal has been formed

    Turn the adjustment dial on the regulator clockwise to increase the set pressure.

    To decrease the set pressure turn the adjustment knob completely anti clockwise and then release the pressure downstream of the regulator (by pulling on the PRV of the keg). Then turn the dial clockwise to reset the pressure at the desired pressure.

    Always ensure the pressure on the regulator is equal to or higher than the pressure of the keg to avoid liquid flowing back into the regulator. It is highly suggested to use a check valve in your system (KL07047) to prevent this from occurring in the event that your gas cylinder becomes empty and you are unaware of a pressure drop in the regulator. If liquid flows back into the regulator it may result in the regulator becoming damaged, hence, this should be avoided.

    If the regulator does get liquid inside for any reason, this will likely result in pressure creep. Pressure creep is when contamination or something else has got into the seat and seat cap assembly and the flow of gas doesn’t stop even when the set pressure is reached. You will see the indicated gauge pressure increase until the PRV starts venting, irrespective of the regulator knob position - this is pressure creep.

    If this happens repeatedly then it’s likely you will need to replace the Seat and Seat Cap Assembly.

    It is essential that a leak test is performed every time a gas bulb or Sodastream cylinder is connected to the Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator. This can be performed via the methods described below.

    1. Ensure a disconnect is connected to an output of the Mini 360, and that the other output is sealed.

    2. Attach the CO2 source to the regulator

    3. Turn the adjustment dial on the regulator to register 5-10 psi on your pressure gauge

    4. Turn the adjustment dial to the off position (anti-clockwise) and leave the regulator to sit for a few hours. Then check if the pressure on the gauge has decreased noticeably from the set pressure. NOTE: Pressure will fluctuate a small amount depending on ambient temperature, so a small (~1psi) drop is not indicitive of a leak.

      If the pressure has decreased noticeably on the gauge then there is a leak in the system and the source of the leak should be identified via a soapy water/stellarsan leak test.

    1. Ensure a disconnect is connected to an output of the Mini 360, and that the other output is sealed.

    2. Attach the CO2 source to the regulator

    3. Turn the adjustment dial on the regulator to register 20-30 psi on your pressure gauge

    4. Spray every connection with soapy water or stellarsan solution.

    • Between the gas bulb/cylinder and regulator

    • Between the regulator body and the 360° FFL fitting or 360° 6.5 mm duotight compatible barb

    • Between the regulator body and the output end cap

    • Between the 360° FFL fitting and ball lock disconnect (if applicable)

    • Between the 360° 6.5 mm duotight compatible barb and the 8mm OD hose

    • The ball lock posts and lid on the keg

    Connections

    Connecting Disconnects to Mini 360

    Duotight Disconnects

    How To Swap Outputs

    MFL Threaded Disconnects

    Connecting tubing to Mini 360

    EVABarrier Tubing

    Other Tubing (non EVABarrier)

    Splitting the Gas Line

    Connecting Gas Cylinders to Mini 360

    Connecting 16g Disposable CO2 Bulbs

    Connecting 74g Big Bulb Disposable CO2 Bulbs

    Connecting Sodastream and Sodastream Compatible Cylinders

    Connecting M10 Disposable Nitrogen Cylinders

    Regulating Pressure

    Performing A Leak Test

    Pressure Decay Test

    Soapy Water/StellarSan Leak Test

    Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)

  • Spray or lightly sponge the entirety of the lid and neck of the FermZilla with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Ensure the lid collar, the whole of the lid and the Carbonation Caps, threads and PRV are covered.

  • Examine the lid and neck for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the lid or neck of the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak

  • If any leaks are detected, please refer to Fixing Leaks

    1. Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with food grade lube

    2. Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)

    3. Half fill a suitable bucket or container (large enough to fit the FermZilla) with cold water

    4. Invert the FermZilla into the bucket, ensuring that it is submerged past the lid

    5. If a steady stream of bubbles, or slow but regular bubbles are visible, then the FermZilla may have a leak

    6. If the exact position of the leak cannot be determined (if the vessel is not large enough to see the whole lid, for example) then perform a to identify the location of the leak

    Babble and Immersion Testing | FermZilla

    Unless the tank itself is cracked (in which case it will need to be replaced) then the Tri-Conical range can only leak from the lid, Collection Container or Butterfly Valve assembly of the FermZilla.

    There are two ways to test and identify the location of a leak.

    1. Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with food grade lube

    2. Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)

    3. Spray or lightly sponge the entirety of the lid and neck of the FermZilla with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Ensure the lid collar, the whole of the lid and the Carbonation Caps, threads and PRV are covered.

    4. Examine the lid and neck for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the lid or neck of the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak

    5. Spray or lightly sponge the threads/caps/Carbonation Caps of the Collection Container with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Also spray or lightly sponge the Butterfly Valve assembly and the flange and clamps of the assembly

    6. Examine the bottom assembly (Collection Container, Butterfly Valve and 2" TC flange) for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak

    7. If any leaks are detected, please refer to

    1. Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with food grade lube

    2. Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)

    3. Half fill a suitable bucket or container (large enough to fit the FermZilla) with cold water

    4. Invert the FermZilla into the bucket, ensuring that it is submerged past the lid

    5. After checking the lid, lower the FermZIlla into the vessel so that the bottom assembly (Collection Container, Butterfly Valve and 2" TC flange) are submerged

    6. If a steady stream of bubbles, or slow but regular bubbles are visible, then the FermZilla may have a leak

    7. If the exact position of the leak cannot be determined (if the vessel is not large enough to see the whole lid, for example) then perform a to identify the location of the leak

    Babble and Immersion Testing | FermZilla

    Once a leak has been identified the cause of the leak needs to be determined and corrected.

    If the leak is from the lid itself or the neck of the FermZilla then remove the lid and inspect the threads of the FermZilla tank for cracking. If a crack is located then the tank will need to be replaced.

    Remove and insect the lid o-ring from the inner lid. Inspect the o-ring for burrs, cuts or damage. If this is damaged it will need to be replaced with a Replacement Lid Seal

    Inspect the threads of the Threaded Lid Ring and the Pressure Lid for cracks, nicks or damage. If this is the source of the leak it will need to be replaced.

    Once parts are inspected and/or replaced as needed, ensure the o-ring and threads are lubricated with food grade lube and repeat the above tests.

    If the lid is still leaking make sure that the stainless-steel handles are not too tight. Loosen these\ handles (or remove) and then perform another leak test. The handles should only be hand tight as too tight can result in distortion of the neck of the Fermzilla

    Inspect the threads on the Collection Container. If any cracks are found this will need to be replaced. Ensure that the threads are lubed and the Carbonation Caps are only hand tightened when replacing fittings.

    Inspect the Tri-Clover beaded seals for nicks or damage. If these are damaged they will need to be replaced.

    If no physical issues are found carefully reassemble the Collection Container and Butterfly Valve. Lubricate the beaded seals and all threads with food grade lube. Reassemble and retest the FermZilla.

    If you are still experiencing issues please send through a video to the email beer@kegland.com.au showing where the leak is occurring (leak test) and photos of the condition of the lid and o-ring.

    Leak Testing | 30L & 60L All Rounder FermZillas

    Detergent Bubble Test

    food grade lube

    Immersion Test

    Leak Testing | 27L & 55L Tri-Conical FermZillas

    Detergent Bubble Test

    Immersion Test

    Fixing Leaks

    Lid Leaks

    Collection Container and Butterfly Valves Leaks

    Remove the FermZilla collection container, tri-clover butterfly Valve and the lid

  • Rinse the walls of the FermZilla vessel, collection container, lid and butterfly valve (including the external face of the butterfly valve) with cold water. A garden hose is particularly useful for rinsing and dislodging yeast/hop matter

  • Use a non-abrasive cloth (microfibre cloths are ideal) to remove any stuck on particulate matter from the walls of the FermZilla, lid, collection vessel and butterfly valve

  • Reattach the butterfly valve and close the valve, leaving the collection vessel unattached

  • Rinse the collection vessel by filling it with cold water and StellarOxy or Stellarclean according to the instructions on the tub, attach the lid and shake to dislodge any yeast/hop matter

  • Then fill the FermZilla with cold water and the correct dosage of StellarOxy or StellarClean according to the instructions on the tub. After 30 minutes of soaking, gently wipe away any soiling with a soft cloth. Make sure not to use harsh scrubbers that may scratch the plastic and create ideal places for batch-ruining bacteria to hide. NOTE: If using StellarClean it is important to limit contact time to 30 minutes

  • If there is a large amount of hops or yeast coating the walls of the fermenter it is best to perform a longer overnight wash using StellarOxy. Do not leave StellarClean in the vessel for longer than 30 minutes as this can damage the tank

  • Remove the lid and drain the StellarClean or StellarOxy solution by opening the butterfly valve and then rinse thoroughly using cold water - a garden hose is ideal for this

  • Fill the FermZilla and collection vessel with cold water again and add StellarSan according to the instructions on the bottle. Reattach the lid and shake the full FermZilla to coat all surfaces - contact time of 60 seconds is required for StellarSan to be effective. It is safe to leave StellarSan (at the correct dilution) in the tank. However, prolonged contact with StellarSan can cause harmless discolouration of the silicon dip tube

  • The Bucket Blaster is ideal for cleaning a FermZIlla.

    1. Assemble the Bucket Blaster according to the instructions

    2. Connect the Bucket Blaster to power, ensuring a Drip Loop is used as per the instructions

    3. Fill the Bucket Blaster with water that is less than 40°C until the pump is fully submerged.

    4. The the suggested correct dosage of or to the bucket. Ensure it is correctly diluted

    5. Carefully release all pressure from the FermZilla vessel and collection container

    6. Remove the FermZilla collection container, tri-clover butterfly Valve and the lid

    7. Rinse the walls of the FermZilla vessel, collection container, lid and butterfly valve (including the external face of the butterfly valve) with cold water. A garden hose is particularly useful for rinsing and dislodging yeast/hop matter. This step is optional when using a Bucket Blaster but will help ensure thorough cleaning and speed the process up

    8. Reattach the butterfly valve and collection container and ensure the valve is open

    9. Place the FermZilla upside down on the stand and insert the spray wand and jet into the opening of the vessel

    10. Turn the pump on and allow the Bucket Blaster to do the rest

    11. Once the FermZIlla is clean, repeat the cleaning process using clean water (no more than 40°C) to thoroughly rinse the FermZilla

    12. Fill the FermZilla and collection vessel with cold water again and add according to the instructions on the bottle. Reattach the lid and shake the full FermZilla to coat all surfaces - contact time of 60 seconds is required for StellarSan to be effective. It is safe to leave StellarSan (at the correct dilution) in the tank. However, prolonged contact with StellarSan can cause harmless discolouration of the silicon dip tube

    If krausen or sticky wort has contacted the PRV you will need to clean the PRV to ensure it still activates at 35psi.

    This can be easily done by releasing the pressure in the FermZilla by pulling on the ring pull until no pressure is left in the vessel, then unscrew the PRV.

    Submerge this PRV in StellarClean solution to remove any sticky residue. Once all the residue has been removed, rinse and then sanitise the PRV with StellarSan or ethyl kill solution and screw back in to the pressure lid. The Carbonation Caps can also be removed, dismantled and cleaned in the same manner.

    It is recommended to clean the PRV and Carbonation Caps every few brews to ensure that no sticky wort build up causes issues.

    When fermenting under pressure or if fermentation has been particularly active or vigourous krausen or beer may enter the Spunding Valve. In this situation the Spunding Valve will need to be disassembled and cleaned to ensure it operates correctly.

    Follow these steps to disassemble and clean a Spunding Valve

    1. Completely remove the yellow adjustment knob and spring

    2. Unscrew the four large screws on the face of the Blowtie Spunding Valve and the two small screws on the housing of the integrated pressure gauge

    3. Remove the integrated pressure gauge housing and the integrated pressure gauge by gently pulling up on the dial

    4. Remove the face of the BlowTie Spunding Valve

    5. Remove the diaphragm assembly

    6. Remove the collets on the duotight fittings

    7. Remove the o-rings within the duotight fittings

    8. Soak all components in StellarClean solution for 30 minutes and then reassemble

    This process is also covered in this video

    Cleaning The FermZilla

    StellarOxy
    Stellarclean
    StellarSan Sanitizer
    Ethyl Sanitiser Spray

    Cleaning The FermZilla with a Bucket Blaster

    Cleaning the PRV

    Cleaning the BlowTie Spunding Valve

    Use one of the bottle caps to close of one of the holes in the lid

  • Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve

  • Push the three piece airlock into the silicone bung then push both parts into the remaining hole in the lid

  • FermZIlla Lid Assembly | Caps and Airlock
    1. Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached

    2. Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring

    3. Thread a red and a yellow KL10788 Carbonation Cap onto each post. Do not overtighten - these are a wedge seal. Overtightening can crack the posts which will prevent a pressure seal

    4. On the underside of the lid, push the silicone dip tube firmly onto the barb of the yellow Carbonation Cap*

    5. Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve

    6. Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring or Easy Grip Lid Ring

    *Cutting the silicone dip tube so that the ball float just rests at the base of the FermZilla tank will give the best results when transferring the finished beer

    FermZilla Lid Assembly | With Carbonation Caps and Dip Tube (for Pressure Fermentation and Transfer)
    1. Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached

    2. Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring

    3. Place the thread lid ring over the lid before assembling - once the Carbonation Caps are in place this will not fit over them

    4. Thread a red and a yellow KL10788 Carbonation Caps onto each post. Do not overtighten - these are a wedge seal. Overtightening can crack the posts which will prevent a pressure seal

    5. On the underside of the lid, push the silicone dip tube firmly onto the barb of the yellow Carbonation Cap*

    6. Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve

    7. Assemble the Butterfly Valve and Hop Bong. A 2" Tri-Clover clamp and beaded seal i used to secure the butterfly valve to the lid, and the Hop Bong to the butterfly valve. We recommend fitting a to the side outlet of the Hop Bong

    8. Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring

    *Cutting the silicone dip tube so that the ball float just rests at the base of the FermZilla tank will give the best results when transferring the finished beer

    FermZIlla Lid Assembly | Hop Bong (for O2 free Dry-Hopping, Pressure Fermentation and Transfer)
    1. Insert a bolt into a hole of each of the handles

    2. Screw a nut onto the bolt. Don’t tighten this nut yet

    3. Place the handles around the collar of the FermZilla as shown in the image below.

    4. Insert the second bolt into the remaining holes on the handle and screw the remaining nut onto this bolt

    5. Tighten the two nuts while holding the bolts to prevent them from spinning. Do not overtighten as it can warp the opening of the FermZilla. The handles should be able to freely rotate around the neck of the FermZilla. If they cannot rotate then it is too tight

    *Stainless Handle Assembly not included with FermZIlla Easy-Grip models

    Note: The Stainless Steel Float with Silicone Dip Tube and Mesh Filter (optional or part of the Pressure Brewing Pack) must be cut to the correct length before use.

    For most situations, cutting the dip tube so that it sits at the base of the FermZilla when the tube is gently curved. We want the dip tube to be able to reach the bottom of the vessel but not so long that it will rest against the sides when transferring. See images below (Tri-Conical on the left, All Rounder on the right)

    FermZIlla Ball Float and Dip Tube Length

    To gauge the correct length, lower the dip tube into the vessel until the desired length is acheived. Cut the dip tube where it reaches the top oif the neck of the FermZilla. Once cut to the correct length push it onto the yellow Carbonation Cap. Note: Carbonation Caps are Multi Posts, so can be used for gas or liquid. We use yellow for liquid and red (DANGER) for gas in order to be consistent and minimise the risk of error.

    The Ball Float can be positioned in the optional float positions on the filter, using the three hoops on the filter. The filter will sit lower in solution when the ball float is attached closer to the end - see below

    Three Optional Ball Float Positions

    The best way to accurately apply the graduation sticker to the FermZilla tank is to first fill the tank with 5L of water.

    This can be done using an accurate jug, or by weighing out 5kg water.

    Once filled with 5L water, apply the graduation sticker so that ithe 5L line is level with the water. Ensure the FermZilla is on a level surface to ensure correct placement.

    All Rounder FermZillas with pre-aqssembled Hex-Bases will need to have the graduation sticker cut to suit.

    FermZIlla Lid Assembly

    Lid Assembly | Caps and Airlock

    Lid Assembly | With Carbonation Caps and Dip Tube (for Pressure Fermentation and Transfer)

    Lid Assembly | Hop Bong (for O2 free Dry-Hopping, Pressure Fermentation and Transfer)

    FermZilla 304 Stainless Steel Handle Assembly*

    Floating Dip Tube Length

    Ball Float Position

    Graduation Sticker

    3

    Connect the Filling Coupler to the Keg

    Ensure the ball valves on the coupler assembly are closed, then slide the coupler onto the keg head. Push down the handle/lever to fully engage the keg.

    4

    Invert the Keg and Open the Liquid Ball Valve

    Place the keg upside down on your filling table and open the liquid-side ball valve. (Note: Liquid may not begin to flow yet due to the internal counter-pressure of the keg).

    5

    Gradually Open the Gas Ball Valve

    Gradually release the internal pressure by opening the gas-side ball valve. Maintain a counter-pressure level strictly above the equilibrium pressure of the beverage to ensure CO₂ doesn't break out of solution.

    • Recommendation: 0.5–1.0 bar is the minimum recommended pressure release setting for carbonated beverages to prevent foaming. Once the keg is filled, wait 5 seconds and close the valve.

    6

    Remove Coupler & Sanitise head of the Keg

    Close both ball valves on the coupler assembly, disengage the filling coupler from the keg, and immediately clean head with warm water, and spray the keg head again with disinfectant (ethanol).

    7

    Apply the Anti-Tamper Cap to the Keg

    Flip the keg back to its upright position and firmly click the included anti-tamper cap onto the keg head.

    8

    Verify Final Fill Volume via Scale

    To guarantee that the keg is filled to its exact specification, cross-reference the volume using a calibrated digital scale.

    • Determine the exact target weight of a full 20L keg by accounting for both the specific gravity (density) of your beverage and the tare weight of the empty keg assembly.

    Keg Type
    Tare Weight

    20L A-Type

    ~1.4kg

    30L A-Type

    ~1.39kg

    Sanitise the Filling Coupler & Keg Head

    Prime the Beverage Line

    Series X Plus - Replacement Guard Rail
    Carbonation Chart Sticker

    Hydro Test Guide

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Hydro Test Guide

    This instruction sheet contains vital information that is related to safely performing a hydro test of a FermZilla tank which is past its Hydro Test date. It is vital that you read this instruction sheet from front to back before performing this test!

    THIS IS FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY

    Hydrotesting is a simple process that anyone can do at home with relatively basic tools and equipment.

    If you have any doubts in the process or do not have time to do the hydrotest then once the tank has expired you should not continue to use the tank under pressure. Replacement new tanks can be purchased from KegLand Distributors

    Determining if your tank requires hydro testing

    All FermZillas have a Date Stamp on the tank body as below

    Date Stamp | FermZilla

    This date is the date after which the tank needs to be Hydro Tested before using under pressure.

    NOTE: If you are not using the FermZilla under pressure then it does not require hydrotesting.

    The Date Stamp on the FermZilla tank is 24 months after the manufacture date. This is a good guide as to when the tank requires hydro testing.

    However, if the FermZilla has been correctly stored in the original, unopened carton then it is not required to Hydro Test until 24 months from the date of purchase.

    The tank will remain in 'as new' condition when stored correctly in an unopened carton as it is not exposed to UV or chemicals etc.

    Please make a note of the date of purchase of the FermZilla and ensure it is Hydro Tested 24 months from the date of purchase

    Do not perform the Hydro Test with an empty tank

    Fill the tank with water to the brim before testing.

    The reason it is important to fill the tank with water when testing is because water is incompressible. This means in the event that the tank fails the test the resulting rupture will be safe. If the tank is filled with compressible gas such as CO2 then the failure will have significantly more stored energy and the resultant failure can be much more dangerous.

    Thus it is important to completely fill the tank with water prior to testing

    1. Assemble the FermZilla (if required). Fill the tank to the brim with water

    2. Remove the red 2.5bar PRV from the FermZilla lid and replace with a . NOTE: Ensure this PRV is swapped back for the red 2.5bar PRV immediately the test is complete. DO not operate the FermZilla with the incorrect PRV installed

    3. Once the FermZilla is filled with water and the lid in place, slowly apply pressure to the tank. It is important to apply pressure in a controlled manner. There are two methods to apply pressure in a controlled manner

    1. Connect mains pressure water to a length of 6.35mm EVABarrier with an inline regulator and liquid disconnect. You can use a KL13888 to connect to a 3/4" tap outlet, or a KL17756 to connect to a standard under sink outlet

    2. Use a short length of KL42789 , a KL26918 and a KL24235 to make a mains connected water line with inline regulation and a liquid disconnect to attach to the liquid post on the FermZilla

    3. Connect a KL11532 to a KL20756 . This will be used on the FermZilla to accurately measure the pressure in the tank

    1. Fill a Cornelius Keg and the FermZilla to be tested completely with water

    2. Connect the Cornelius Keg to a regulated gas source such as a KL01489 or KL01496 and and a KL07429

    3. Ensure the line out from the regulator is terminated with a gas disconnect such as a KL20756

    Tips, Tricks & Accessories

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Tips, Tricks & Accessories

    The FermZIlla range is distinguished by being pressure capable fermenters which allow fermenting and transferring beer under pressure. There are also a number of super handy accessories available to improve your beer and your brewing! The FermZilla range has a number of advantages over more traditional fermenters on the market.

    Dispensing from a FermZilla

    As a pressure capable fermenter, the FermZilla can be treated as an all in one fermentation and dispensing unit. If the FermZilla is equipped for pressure fermentation, simply ferment and cold crash as normal. Once the cold crash is complete, there is no need to transfer to a keg.

    Simply connect the FermZilla to CO2 using the Gas Post, and connect a tap of some kind to the Liquid Post. Once connected (and the beer is chilled and carbonated) you are good to go!

    Recommended taps include the NukaTap Mini FC Disconnect Kit, the Nylon Composite Pluto Gun and the duo-Bronco/duo-Picnic Party Tap. These are all great options to have to hand for pulling samples during fermentation (to check gravity etc).

    Yeast Harvesting (Tri-Conical series)

    To harvest the yeast from a fermentation it is as simple as waiting for fermentation to be complete. Ideally perform a cold crash to cause yeast in suspension to flocculate out. Once fermentation is done and the beer is transferred, simply close the Butterfly Valve and remove the Collection Container.

    The Collection Container can then simply be capped and placed in the fridge to be pitched into the next brew. Otherwise the yeast and trub can be carefully decanted in sanitised jars or similar and stored in the fridge until ready to use. Yeast harvested and stored in this manner will remain viable for approximately one month.

    It is always best to minimise introducing oxygen (O2) into the beer once fermentation is underway. Oxidation can cause off flavours (typically described as a 'cardboard' taste). Oxidation can also seriously impact hop flavour and aroma, resulting in a loss of both flavour and aroma. Low Oxygen Dry Hopping procedures are great for hoppy beer styles such as NEIPAs, XPAs, Pale Ales etc.

    The FermZilla Tri-conical offer low oxygen dry hopping capability with very few extra required parts and is quite easy and quick to introduce into your normal fermentation schedule.

    To use the Collection Container for LODO (Low Dissolved Oxygen) dry hopping replace once of the black PCO1881 caps with a KL10788 . This allows you to easily connect CO2 to the collection container. Use the other post to attach a .

    To use the Collection Container for dry hopping, it must first be cleaned and sanitised. It is quite useful to have a separate for this purpose. These instructions assume that the Collection Container has already been removed, cleaned and sanitised and the Butterfly Valve is closed on the FermZilla Tri-Conical.

    1. Place the required dry hops in the sanitised Collection Container

    2. Attach the Collection Container to the the 3" Butterfly Valve at the base of the FermZilla Tri-Conical

    3. Set your regulator to between 5-10psi and connect the gas ball lock disconnect to the Carbonation Cap on the Collection Container

    The Hop Bong is a fantastic way to dry hop in a FermZilla without introducing O2 (LODO). The Hop Bong is suitable for all pressure capable FermZillas (the Tri-Conical and the All Rounder). It can be purchased as a (if you have the required Carbonation Caps, dip tube etc) or as a .

    The Hop Bong assembly can be attached at the start of fermentation. It can also be added to the lid at any stage - simply keep the 2" Butterfly Valve closed until the Hop Bong has been attached.

    1. Remove the lid of the Hop Bong by undoing the 2" Tri Clover clamp

    2. Add the required dry hop to the Hop Bong

    3. Replace the lid on the Hop Bong and secure the 2" Tri-Clover clamp

    4. Set your regulator to between 5-10psi and connect the gas ball lock disconnect to the Carbonation Cap on the Hop Bong

    For more information and detailed instructions for the Hop Bong, please refer to this video

    The is the perfect accessory for the FermZilla range! Unlike stainless fermenters, the FermZilla is made of transparent PET. PET is easy to clean, sanitary and also transparent to WiFi signals, making the use of a network capable floating hydrometer such as the RAPT Pill very simple. Using the RAPT Pill connected to your home network (or to another RAPT device such as a via Bluetooth) you can get near real time gravity and temperature readings from directly inside the FermZilla! This unlocks powerful and easy fermentation and temperature control and is a highly recommended upgrade.

    More more information please refer to this video

    The is the most capable Fermentation Chamber on the market. It was designed from the ground up to hold 2 x 30L FermZilla All Rounders, 1 x 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical (with or without Hop Bong) or 1 x FermZilla 60L All Rounder or 55L Tri-Conical. With built in heating and cooling, WiFi and Bluetooth* connectivity and connection and control via the RAPT ecosystem it is the easiest and most advanced method of fermentation control on the market!

    *Bluetooth connectivity works only in conjunction with a

    For more information, please refer to this video

    The FermZilla range can also be used in conjunction with a glycol chiller such as the

    You will need to install a for the temperature probe and also a cooling coil such as the . All FermZilla lids have ports marked for drilling in order to fit these accessories. Otherwise, a can also be purchased. These can also be installed in the which enables the use of the Hop Bong in conjunction with a glycol setup.

    Due to the shape of the FermZIlla range (the conical shape of the Tri-Conical FermZilla and the rounded base of the All Rounder) you can skip the whirlpool in the kettle and just transfer everything! The hops and trub will simply settle out. You can then use the Collection Container of the Tri-Conical to dump this (if desired). In addition, when transferring under pressure, we are only drawing clear beer from the surface during the process, greatly minimising the amount of solids that can make their way into the keg.

    By attaching a ball lock post to the bottom of the Collection Container, you now have a variety of removable options at your fingertips.

    You can connect a KL21821 sanitised duo-Bronco / duo-Picnic Party Tap mounted to a KL24235 6.35mm to allow to take hydrometer samples. Simply slip some 10mm hose over the end of the tap and you now have a simple bottling gun!

    Just make sure the FermZilla is elevated so that gravity can carry the beer down to the bottle. You may need to remove some of the trub and yeast sediment before using this method to get clear beer. Crash chilling after fermentation will make the trub compact faster.

    Pressure Transfers

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Pressure Transfers

    One of the main advantages of a pressurisable FermZilla is the ability to transfer the finished beer into a keg under pressure. This enables a closed transfer with neither the keg nor the FermZilla needing to be opened so that it is possible to all but completely eliminate the risk of oxidation/O2 ingress.

    This is a fantastic boon for the avid homebrewer - avoiding oxidation when transferring helps all beers, especially modern hoppy styles such as NEIPAs.

    Whilst fermenting under pressure can be performed using just the CO2 generated during fermentation, most pressure transfers will require a source of CO2 and a regulator. Options for this include a refillable or and a . If space is limited a cylinder and a are great options.

    There are two easy ways to transfer your beer under pressure. The first step is to sanitise and purge the keg to be filled with CO2.

    Fermentation

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Operation

    The FermZIlla range (excluding the non pressure rated FermZilla Flat Bottom) are designed to be optimally used with CO2 pressure. They are not really designed for gravity only operation in the same manner as a fermenter with a tap.

    However, there are some workarounds that can allow this, although it is not recommended.

    If you intend to use FermZilla under pressure it is strongly advised to perform a leak test prior to commencing fermentation.

    This will require access to an external pressure source such as a CO2 cylinder with a Type 30 MK4 regulator. To thoroughly pressure test the FermZilla it is best to perform a pressure decay leak test.

    1. Assemble the FermZIlla according to the instructions

    What's Included

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | What's Included

    Cleaning

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Cleaning

    Cleaning is essential in order to ensure that you have trouble free fermentation and minimise the risk of infection or contamination. The recommended cleaner for the FermZilla range is . may also be used however it is important to limit contact time to 30 minutes or less as prolonged contact time with StellarClean PBW can degrade PET. StellarOxy is sufficient in most situations. StellarCleam PBW can be more effective on oils (for example, if using a large amount of dry hops in the FermZilla it can be preferable to use StellarClean.

    Once cleaned the FermZilla should also be sanitised. is the recommended sanitiser for interior surfaces. For exterior fittings such as carbonation caps etc, we recommend spraying with

    NOTE: The FermZilla must be cleaned and sanitised before use.

    1. Carefully release all pressure from the FermZilla vessel

    Detergent Bubble Test
    Fixing Leaks
    Detergent Bubble Test
    PRV 1881 Cap Combo

    Ensure the Inline Regulator is set to 0psi - the yellow knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise. Connect the liquid disconnect to the liquid post of the FermZilla.

  • Connect the gas disconnect and gauge to the gas post of the FermZIlla

  • Slowly turn the yellow handle of the Inline Regulator until the pressure reaches 4 bar (60psi). Confirm this pressure on the gauge attached to the gas post of the FermZilla. Note: It is normal for the FermZilla tank to swell in size and stretch during the hydro test

  • Once 4 bar has been reached, stop increasing pressure. Leave everything connected for 1 minute. Remove the liquid disconnect (connecting the tank to mains pressure water). Inspect the FermZilla tank. If the tank has not failed then the FermZilla has been successfully passed the Hydro Test and does not need testing for a further 24 months

  • If there are any visible cracks or damage, or if the tank ruptures then the Hydro Test has failed and the tank will need to be replaced

  • Ensure the regulator is set to 0psi - the knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise
  • Daisy chain the Cornelius Keg from the Liquid (Out) Post of the keg to the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to be tested using a length of EVABarrier and 2 x Liquid Disconnects. A length of KL06224 4mm x 8mm EVABarrier and 2 x KL20749 8mm duotight Disconnects - Liquid is ideal for this

  • Connect a KL11532 duotight 0-150psi push in gauge to a KL20756 8mm duotight Disconnect - Gas. This will be used on the FermZilla to accurately measure the pressure in the tank. Connect the gas disconnect and gauge to the gas post of the FermZIlla

  • Slowly and in a controlled manner adjust the regulator until the pressure reaches 4 bar (60psi). Confirm this pressure on the gauge attached to the gas post of the FermZilla. Ensure that water is being transferred into the FermZilla, not gas. Note: It is normal for the FermZilla tank to swell in size and stretch during the hydro test

  • Once 4 bar has been reached, stop increasing pressure. Leave everything connected for 1 minute. Remove the liquid disconnect connect the keg to the FermZIlla. Inspect the FermZilla tank. If the tank has not failed then the FermZilla has been successfully passed the Hydro Test and does not need testing for a further 24 months

  • If there are any visible cracks or damage, or if the tank ruptures then the Hydro Test has failed and the tank will need to be replaced

  • IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT THE DATE STAMP

    Hydro Testing Process

    Mains Water Pressure Testing

    Water Pressure Transfer from Cornelius Keg

    grey 6.5bar PRV
    duotight - 6.35mm (1/4'') x 3/4 inch BSP Thread Female
    6.35mm Diverter Valve 1/2" BSP
    Black Lightshield 6.35mm EVABarrier
    6.35mm Inline Regulator
    6.35mm duotight Disconnect - Liquid
    duotight 0-150psi push in gauge
    8mm duotight Disconnect - Gas
    2.6kg
    6kg CO2 cylinder
    MK4 Type 30 Regulator
    8mm duotight Disconnect - Gas
    Fill FermZilla tank completely with water prior to testing
    Hydro Test - Mains Water Setup
    Hydro Test - Cornelius Keg Setup
    Series X Plus
    While connected and pressurised, pull the PRV on the Collection Container several times. This will purge and refill the container with CO2, effectively displacing the O2 in the Collection Container
  • Once purged, disconnect the CO2 and open the Butterfly Valve to introduce the hops into the FermZilla tank

  • While connected and pressurised, pull the PRV on the lid of the Hop Bong several times. This will purge and refill the container with CO2, effectively displacing the O2 in the Hop Bong

  • Once purged, disconnect the CO2 and open the Butterfly Valve to introduce the hops into the FermZilla tank

  • Low Oxygen Dry Hopping using the Collection Container

    The Hop Bong

    LODO Dry Hopping with the Hop Bong

    RAPT Pill Hydrometer

    RAPT Fermentation Chamber

    Temperature Control with Glycol

    No need to do a whirlpool in the kettle

    Using the Collection Container for Samples and Bottling (Tri-Conical series)

    Carbonation Cap
    Red PRV 1881 Cap Combo
    Collection Container
    standalone unit
    complete kit
    RAPT Pill Hydrometer & Thermometer
    RAPT Temperature Controller
    RAPT - Fermentation Chamber
    RAPT Pill Hydrometer & Thermometer
    G20 - Glycol Chiller
    thermowell
    Temp Twister
    pre-drilled lid
    2" TC Pressure Lid
    duotight Disconnect
    Once the keg has been cleaned and rinsed, completely fill the keg with sanitiser solution such as StellarSan diluted to the correct ratio
  • Invert the keg for 120 seconds, then put the right way up to make sure that all surfaces some into contact with the sanitiser

  • Connect the keg to CO2 at around 10psi. Pull the PRV a couple of times to purge the small amount of headspace

  • Next we need to push the sanitiser out of the keg. Ideally connect the full keg to an empty, clean keg. Connect the two Liquid (Out) Posts with a short length of line. Put a Spunding Valve on the Gas Post of the empty keg. Use this to vent pressure in the empty keg at around 5psi. The pressure differential will push the sanitiser from the full keg to the empty keg

  • If you do not have an empty keg then the sanitiser can be transferred into any vessel of around 20L, or simply emptied into the sink.

  • Once the transfer is complete, the empty keg will now be sanitised and purged of O2. It will also have some residual pressure which is ideal for transferring from the FermZilla

  • A FOBS (Foam On Beer) detector can also be repurposed to detect sanitiser rather than beer - check out this video. It is a great way to automate this process.

    Before transferring the finished beer into a keg, we want to ensure that it is completely fermented. Taking a gravity reading over three consecutive is is the best way to ensure this. If the reading is stable for three consecutive days we can be sure that the fermentation is finished.

    Before transferring the completed beer, it is ideal to cold crash the beer.

    Cold crashing is quite simple if you have temperature control for your FermZilla. Simply set the temperature to -1-2°C (or as low as you can if it will not go this low). Once the desired cold crash temperature has been achieved, leave the finished beer at this temperature for 2-4 days. This will 'cold crash' the finished beer. Cold crashing helps a lot with getting solids such as hop matter, yeast and other solids in suspension to drop out of the beer. It also helps to compact the trub in the fermenter. Cold crashing is therefore very beneficial for transferring a clean beer into the keg, minimising trub in the keg.

    If you cannot cold crash that is OK. The integrated filter on the floating dip tube will assist greatly in preventing hop matter etc from being transferred into the keg.

    IMPORTANT: Before cold crashing, you must add pressure to the FermZilla. Positive pressure of approximately 10psi is required. before cold crashing. This is because as the beer gets chilled, CO2 in the headspace will be absorbed into solution. If there is not sufficient pressure (CO2) in the head space, this can cause negative pressure in the FermZilla which can cause the tank to be deformed once the atmospheric pressure is higher than the internal pressure.

    Ideally, hooking the FermZilla to CO2 at around 10psi when cold crashing will prevent this, and also help to carbonate the beer before it is transferred.

    To transfer the finished beer using pressure you will need a transfer line (a short length of line with a liquid disconnect on each end) and a Spunding Valve, as well as a purged, empty keg.

    Following the guide to Sanitising and Purging Kegs, you will have a sanitised, O2 free keg with a small amount of residual pressure in it.

    1. Connect the FermZilla to a regulated source of CO2. Set the regulator to ~10psi

    2. Turn the handle of the Spunding Valve clockwise (so that it does not let out pressure). Put the Spunding Valve on the Gas In Post of the sanitised keg

    3. Adjust the Spunding Valve until it is venting at a pressure slightly lower than the pressure in the FermZilla (~7psi). Starting the transfer with a small pressure difference will help to minimise foaming issues

    4. Connect the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to the Liquid Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the )

    5. The pressure differential will 'push' the finished beer into the keg

    6. Once the transfer is under way, you can adjust the Spunding Valve down to about 5psi. The greater pressure differential will speed up the transfer process

    7. Once the transfer is complete, disconnect the transfer line from both posts. Remove the Spunding Valve from the keg. Remove the gas line from the FermZilla

    8. Congratulations! The finished beer is now kegged and ready to go. It should now be p[laced in a kegerator or similar ready for dispensing. If it was fermented and cold crashed under pressure then it will already be partially or completely carbonated. Connect the keg to CO2 at 10-12psi to complete carbonation if required

    Pressure Transfer Setup | FermZilla

    Another method of pressure transferring the completed beer is a Closed Loop Gravity Transfer. This method is very useful if you wish to do a completely closed transfer (whereby no CO2 is vented during the process). This can be beneficial for super oppy beers as no hop aroma will be 'blown off' during the transfer process.

    Another benefit of a closed transfer is that no additional CO2 is required - the residual pressure in the FermZIlla should be sufficient.

    A Closed Loop transfer is effectively a siphon. Thus, the keg must be lower than the FermZilla for the transfer to complete.

    Following the guide to Sanitising and Purging Kegs, you will have a sanitised, O2 free keg with a small amount of residual pressure in it.

    1. Ensure that there is at least 5psi (ideally ~10psi) pressure in the FermZilla

    2. Position the FermZilla and the keg so that the FermZilla is higher than the keg

    3. Connect the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to the Liquid Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the Big Jumper)

    4. Provided there is less pressure in the keg than the FermZilla, beer will start to transfer. If beer does not begin to flow, pull the PRV of the keg to lower the pressure in the keg until the transfer begins

    5. Once the transfer is underway, connect the Gas Post of the FermZilla to the Gas Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the ). This will keep the pressures equalised between the FermZilla and the keg, enabled the transfer to complete as a siphon

    6. Once the transfer is complete, disconnect the transfer line from both liquid posts. Remove the gas line from the FermZilla and the keg

    7. Congratulations! The finished beer is now kegged and ready to go. It should now be p[laced in a kegerator or similar ready for dispensing. If it was fermented and cold crashed under pressure then it will already be partially or completely carbonated. Connect the keg to CO2 at 10-12psi to complete carbonation if required

    Closed Loop Transfer | FermZilla

    NOTE: There are several ways to either stop the transfer automatically once the keg is full, or alternatively to monitor the process so that it is easy to determine when to stop the transfer.

    A duotight Flow Stopper is an easy and inexpensive way to automatically stop the transfer. Simply place the Flow Stopper on the Gas Post of the target keg (you can use a longish length of line in order to add a Spunding Valve to this as well).

    A simple method is to place the keg on Digital Home Brew Scales before filling. TARE the weright to zero once everything is assembled, and stop filling at around 18.5kg - this will ensure the keg is filled below the gas dip tube.

    If the beer has been cold crashed prior to transfer, then you can use the condensation line on the keg as a guide.

    For a more precise guide for transferring cold crashed beer, a Cold Activated Keg Filler Sticker is a great way to help gauge fill volume during the transfer.

    Advantages Of Pressure Transfers

    Sanitising and Purging Kegs

    2.6kg
    6kg CO2 Cylinder
    MK5 Regulator
    KegLand Branded Sodastream
    Mini 360 regulator

    Transferring Finished Beer Under Pressure

    Cold Crashing Before Transfer

    Pressure Transfer

    Closed Loop (Gravity) Transfer

    Pressurise the empty FermZilla to a minimum of 15psi (but not more than 35psi)

  • Turn the CO2 cylinder off and leave to sit for a few hours

  • Check the pressure in the FermZilla. If it has decreased substantially then there may be a leak that will need to be identified before using the FermZilla under pressure

  • A leak can occur from the Carbonation Caps, the lid, the butterfly valve assembly and/or the Collection Container assembly

    To locate the leak you can pressurise the FermZilla and spray with soapy water to look for bubbles. Bubbles will identify the source of the leak. You can also fill a bucket with water and submerge both the Collection Container assembly and the lid of the FermZilla under water. Again, bubbles will identify exactly where the leak is.

    Once the leak has been located, remove and inspect any fittings. If there is damage (such as a crack) then the fitting may need to be replaced. If a seal is damaged it may need to be replaced. If no damage is found then reassemble using food safe lube and retest.

    Pressure Fermentation is a fantastic tool to have in your fermenting arsenal. In the commercial brewing world, most beers are fermented under pressure to some degree due to the size and shape of the tanks used. This means that the pressure at the bottom of the tank is quite significant even if no pressure has been applied to the tank.

    Fermenting under pressure can have several positive benefits.

    1: It can allow elevated temperatures with no off flavours. This in turn can lead to a faster and complete fermentation.

    2: Fermenting under pressure can suppress esters and off flavours, leading to a cleaner beer in the glass.

    3: Fermenting under pressure means that the CO2 produced in large quantities during fermentation can be dissolved back into solution - thus you can achieve complete carbonation y the time the beer is ready to keg.

    NOTE: Not all beers styles are suited to pressure fermentation. Styles such as Belgian beers and Saisons rely on yeast expression and character and thus they are not really good candidates for pressure fermentation.

    To ferment under pressure you will need either the Complete Pressure Brewing Kit:

    30L FermZilla All Rounder Complete Pressure Brewing Kit

    60L FermZilla All Rounder Complete Pressure Brewing Kit

    Gen3 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Complete Pressure Brewing Kit

    Gen3 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Complete Pressure Brewing Kit

    Or you will need to purchase the following accessories for your FermZilla (NOTE: Required accessories can differ according to model. Check the product page or contact KegLand if unsure)

    2 x KL10788 Carbonation Caps (we like to use Red for Gas, Yellow for Liquid for easy identification)

    1 x KL17060 100cm Silicone Dip Tube Kit with Yellow Weighted Filter and SS Float

    1 x KB03529 Integrated Gauge BlowTie Kit (0-15psi)

    To transfer your finished beer you wll also need some spare transfer line and 2 x Ball Lock Disconnects. If you do not have spare transfer line then the Big Jumper Kit is ideal

    For a comprehensive guide to Pressure Fermentation please check out this article: A Guide To Pressure Fermentation

    To ferment under pressure simply replace the black plastic caps on the FermZilla lid with Carbonation Caps. Ensure the Silicon Dip Tube is cut to the correct length and connected to one of the caps using the barb.

    Instead of using the airlock we will use a Blowtie Spunding Valve to control the pressure build up in the tank. Best practice is to not allow pressure build up for the first 24 hours after pitching yeast. This is because pressure can inhibit yeast growth.

    For most fermentations, we recommend setting the Spunding Valve to allow pressure to build to 10-12psi. Under no circumstances should pressure be allowed to go to or higher than 35psi.

    WARNING: If fermenting at high temperatures (above 35psi) do not also ferment under pressure. The combination of high temperature fermentation and pressure can cause failure.

    WARNING: Ensure the butterfly valve is open during active fermentation, especially when fermenting under pressure. Failure to leave this open can cause unregulated pressure to build up in the Collection Container which can cause failure. The Butterfly Valve may be closed before filling the FermZilla with wort or after fermentation has finished and the gravity reading has been stable for three consecutive days.

    To set the Spunding Valve two methods can be used.

    1. Wind in the handle of the Spunding Valve (clockwise) and connect it to an empty, pressurised vessel with ball lock posts - a keg is ideal. Ensure the pressure in the keg is higher than the desired set pressure. Slowly unscrew the handle of the Spunding Valve until the desired pressure is reached. Once the Spunding Valve is just venting at the desired pressure it can be removed and put on the FermZilla

    2. Once active fermentation is underway CO2 will be produced quite quickly. You can connect the Spunding Valve to the Gas Post of the FermZIlla and turn the handle clockwise. Pressure will build up over a few hours and thus you can check the FermZilla and valve every 15 minutes and adjust until the desired pressure is reached. NOTE: It is important to constantly monitor the FermZIlla when setting pressure manually in order to ensure there is no possibility of over pressurising the tank

    When fermenting under pressure ensure that the FermZilla is depressurised prior to closing the Butterfly Valve, Removing the Collection Container or removing the FermZilla Lid

    Fermenting under pressure with Spunding Valve

    Once fermentation is finished, best practice is to cold crash the beer before transferring to your desired packaging.

    To ensure that fermentation is complete before transferring, take a gravity reading across three consecutive days. If the gravity reading is stable and in the expected range we can be sure that fermentation is completed and the beer is ready!

    As a pressure capable fermenter, the FermZilla range is the ideal fermenter for transferring into kegs. This can be easily done with no mess, fuss or risk of oxidation using a pressure transfer once the beer is finished.

    Using The FermZilla Without Pressure

    Using The FermZilla Under Pressure

    Performing a Leak Test

    Pressure Decay Leak Test Procedure

    Fermenting Under Pressure

    Setting The Spunding Valve To The Desired Pressure

    30L & 6oL FermZilla All Rounder

    30L FermZilla All Rounder Easy-Grip Pressure Fermenter Starter Kit

    FermZilla All Rounder Tank with Metal Neck Ring
    30L Tank
    60L Tank
    FermZilla Easy-Grip Threaded Lid Ring
    Pressure Lid
    Red 35psi PRV
    lid o-ring
    Strip Stick on Thermometer

    30L & 60L FermZilla All Rounder Starter Kit with handle

    30L & 60L FermZilla All Rounder Complete Pressure Brewing Kit

    30L & 60L FermZilla All Rounder Hop Bong Complete Pressure Brewing Kit

    Rinse the walls of the FermZilla vessel and the lid with cold water. A garden hose is particularly useful for rinsing and dislodging yeast/hop matter

  • Use a non-abrasive cloth (microfibre cloths are ideal) to remove any stuck on particulate matter from the walls of the FermZilla and lid

  • Fill the FermZilla with cold water and the correct dosage of StellarOxy or StellarClean according to the instructions on the tub. After 30 minutes of soaking, gently wipe away any soiling with a soft cloth. Make sure not to use harsh scrubbers that may scratch the plastic and create ideal places for batch-ruining bacteria to hide. NOTE: If using StellarClean it is important to limit contact time to 30 minutes

  • If there is a large amount of hops or yeast coating the walls of the fermenter it is best to perform a longer overnight wash using StellarOxy. Do not leave StellarClean in the vessel for longer than 30 minutes as this can damage the tank

  • Remove the lid and drain the StellarClean or StellarOxy solution and then rinse thoroughly using cold water - a garden hose is ideal for this

  • Fill the FermZilla with cold water again and add StellarSan according to the instructions on the bottle. Reattach the lid and shake the full FermZilla to coat all surfaces - contact time of 60 seconds is required for StellarSan to be effective. It is safe to leave StellarSan (at the correct dilution) in the tank. However, prolonged contact with StellarSan can cause harmless discolouration of the silicon dip tube

  • The Bucket Blaster is ideal for cleaning a FermZIlla.

    1. Assemble the Bucket Blaster according to the instructions

    2. Connect the Bucket Blaster to power, ensuring a Drip Loop is used as per the instructions

    3. Fill the Bucket Blaster with water that is less than 40°C until the pump is fully submerged.

    4. The the suggested correct dosage of or to the bucket. Ensure it is correctly diluted

    5. Carefully release all pressure from the FermZilla vessel

    6. Rinse the walls of the FermZilla vessel and the lid with cold water. A garden hose is particularly useful for rinsing and dislodging yeast/hop matter. This step is optional when using a Bucket Blaster but will help ensure thorough cleaning and speed the process up

    7. Place the FermZilla upside down on the stand and insert the spray wand and jet into the opening of the vessel

    8. Turn the pump on and allow the Bucket Blaster to do the rest

    9. Once the FermZIlla is clean, repeat the cleaning process using clean water (no more than 40°C) to thoroughly rinse the FermZilla

    10. Fill the FermZilla with cold water again and add according to the instructions on the bottle. Reattach the lid and shake the full FermZilla to coat all surfaces - contact time of 60 seconds is required for StellarSan to be effective. It is safe to leave StellarSan (at the correct dilution) in the tank. However, prolonged contact with StellarSan can cause harmless discolouration of the silicon dip tube

    If krausen or sticky wort has contacted the PRV you will need to clean the PRV to ensure it still activates at 35psi.

    This can be easily done by releasing the pressure in the FermZilla by pulling on the ring pull until no pressure is left in the vessel, then unscrew the PRV.

    Submerge this PRV in StellarClean solution to remove any sticky residue. Once all the residue has been removed, rinse and then sanitise the PRV with StellarSan or ethyl kill solution and screw back in to the pressure lid. The Carbonation Caps can also be removed, dismantled and cleaned in the same manner.

    It is recommended to clean the PRV and Carbonation Caps every few brews to ensure that no sticky wort build up causes issues.

    When fermenting under pressure or if fermentation has been particularly active or vigourous krausen or beer may enter the Spunding Valve. In this situation the Spunding Valve will need to be disassembled and cleaned to ensure it operates correctly.

    Follow these steps to disassemble and clean a Spunding Valve

    1. Completely remove the yellow adjustment knob and spring

    2. Unscrew the four large screws on the face of the Blowtie Spunding Valve and the two small screws on the housing of the integrated pressure gauge

    3. Remove the integrated pressure gauge housing and the integrated pressure gauge by gently pulling up on the dial

    4. Remove the face of the BlowTie Spunding Valve

    5. Remove the diaphragm assembly

    6. Remove the collets on the duotight fittings

    7. Remove the o-rings within the duotight fittings

    8. Soak all components in StellarClean solution for 30 minutes and then reassemble

    This process is also covered in this video

    Cleaning The FermZilla

    StellarOxy
    Stellarclean
    StellarSan Sanitizer
    Ethyl Sanitiser Spray

    Cleaning The FermZilla with a Bucket Blaster

    Cleaning the PRV

    Cleaning the BlowTie Spunding Valve

    StellarOxy
    Stellarclean
    StellarSan

    Assembly

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Assembly

    FermZIlla Lid Assembly

    Lid Assembly | Caps and Airlock

    1. Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached

    2. Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring

    3. Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring

    4. Use one of the bottle caps to close of one of the holes in the lid

    5. Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve

    6. Push the three piece airlock into the silicone bung then push both parts into the remaining hole in the lid

    1. Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached

    2. Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring

    3. Thread a and a KL10788 Carbonation Cap onto each post. Do not overtighten - these are a wedge seal. Overtightening can crack the posts which will prevent a pressure seal

    *Cutting the silicone dip tube so that the ball float just rests at the base of the FermZilla tank will give the best results when transferring the finished beer

    1. Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached

    2. Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring

    3. Place the thread lid ring over the lid before assembling - once the Carbonation Caps are in place this will not fit over them

    *Cutting the silicone dip tube so that the ball float just rests at the base of the FermZilla tank will give the best results when transferring the finished beer

    1. Insert a bolt into a hole of each of the handles

    2. Screw a nut onto the bolt. Don’t tighten this nut yet

    3. Place the handles around the collar of the FermZilla as shown in the image below.

    4. Insert the second bolt into the remaining holes on the handle and screw the remaining nut onto this bolt

    *Stainless Handle Assembly not included with FermZIlla Easy-Grip models

    1. Place the 3” tri-clover seal and butterfly valve onto the 3” tri-clover ferrule on the tank

    2. Best practice is to use a small amount of on the seal before assembly

    3. Fasten the butterfly valve in place onto the tank using the 3” tri-clover 3-piece clamp, ensuring that the seal is seated in the groove on the butterfly valve and tank

    Note: It is good practice to lubricate tri-clover seals using food-grade lube to help form a hermetic seal

    IMPORTANT: Depressurise the vessel prior to disassembling the butterfly dump valve.

    1. To release the pressure in the vessel, pull the ring on the PRV on the lid until there is no audible hissing heard (this is caused by CO2 escaping from the tank)

    2. Once the vessel is depressurised the butterfly valve can be removed by loosening the 3” tri-clover clamp which holds the butterfly valve in place

    The Collection Container has many uses. The primary function is for collecting and harvesting yeast. However, it can also be used for several other purposes such as:

    • Reagent Bottle

    • Dry Hopping Bottle

    • Beer Sampling Bottle

    • Collection and disposal of unwanted turb or hop material

    The FermZilla 600ml Collection Container is made from heat resistant Tritan plastic. This is robust, heat and chemical resistant and can also handle extended contact with hot liquid at 100°C (212°F)

    Note: The current generation of 600ml Tri-Conical Collection Containers are made from a reformulated version of Tritan which is substantially tougher. This makes it more resistant to damage (if dropped etc) and less likely to crack if excessive force is used (when threading carbonation caps, for example).

    This generation can be identified by a small raised circle on the base next to the cap thread - see below

    1. Best practice is to use a small amount of on the seal before assembly

    2. The caps on the 600ml collection jar can be replaced with and KL10788 Carbonation Caps or a as desired

    3. Place the 3" beaded tri-clover seal in the groove on the top of the collection container.

    It is extremely important that if you have wort in the Collection Container attached that you keep the butterfly valve open during the entirety of the fermentation process. The butterfly valve should only be closed once fermentation has ceased which is to be determined by three consecutive days of the same Specific Gravity reading.

    To remove the Collection Container once fermentation has ceased it is important to depressurise the entire system. To release the pressure in the vessel, open the butterfly valve if necessary (note: this will already be open during normal fermentation) and pull the ring on the PRV until there is no audible hissing from the PRV. It is also a good idea to loosen one of the carbonation caps on the collection vessel to ensure the Collection Container is completely depressurised.

    Once the system is depressurised the butterfly valve should then be closed if there is liquid in the FermZilla. Then the Collection Container can be detached from the butterfly valve by removing the lower 3” tri-clover 3-piece clamp. This clamp can then be used to secure the lid on the collection jar if desired.

    If the Collection Container is sealed after removing it is vital that fermentation cannot continue as this can cause unregulated pressure build up. We recommend storing Collection Containers in the fridge to help prevent this possibility.

    Note: The (optional or part of the Pressure Brewing Pack) must be cut to the correct length before use.

    For most situations, cutting the dip tube so that it sits at the base of the FermZilla when the tube is gently curved. We want the dip tube to be able to reach the bottom of the vessel but not so long that it will rest against the sides when transferring. See images below (Tri-Conical on the left, All Rounder on the right)

    To gauge the correct length, lower the dip tube into the vessel until the desired length is acheived. Cut the dip tube where it reaches the top oif the neck of the FermZilla. Once cut to the correct length push it onto the yellow Carbonation Cap. Note: Carbonation Caps are Multi Posts, so can be used for gas or liquid. We use yellow for liquid and red (DANGER) for gas in order to be consistent and minimise the risk of error.

    The Ball Float can be positioned in the optional float positions on the filter, using the three hoops on the filter. The filter will sit lower in solution when the ball float is attached closer to the end - see below

    The best way to accurately apply the graduation sticker to the FermZilla tank is to first fill the tank with 5L of water.

    This can be done using an accurate jug, or by weighing out 5kg water.

    Once filled with 5L water, apply the graduation sticker so that ithe 5L line is level with the water. Ensure the FermZilla is on a level surface to ensure correct placement.

    Fermentation

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Fermentation

    Using The FermZilla Without Pressure

    The FermZIlla range (excluding the non pressure rated FermZilla Flat Bottom) are designed to be optimally used with CO2 pressure. They are not really designed for gravity only operation in the same manner as a fermenter with a tap.

    However, there are some workarounds that can allow this, although it is not recommended.

    Using The FermZilla Under Pressure

    Performing a Leak Test

    If you intend to use FermZilla under pressure it is strongly advised to perform a leak test prior to commencing fermentation.

    This will require access to an external pressure source such as a CO2 cylinder with a Type 30 MK4 regulator. To thoroughly pressure test the FermZilla it is best to perform a pressure decay leak test.

    Pressure Decay Leak Test Procedure

    1. Assemble the FermZIlla according to the instructions

    2. Pressurise the empty FermZilla to a minimum of 15psi (but not more than 35psi)

    3. Turn the CO2 cylinder off and leave to sit for a few hours

    4. Check the pressure in the FermZilla. If it has decreased substantially then there may be a leak that will need to be identified before using the FermZilla under pressure

    A leak can occur from the Carbonation Caps, the lid, the butterfly valve assembly* and/or the Collection Container assembly*

    *FermZilla Tri-Conical model only

    To locate the leak you can pressurise the FermZilla and spray with soapy water to look for bubbles. Bubbles will identify the source of the leak. You can also fill a bucket with water and submerge the lid of the FermZilla under water. Again, bubbles will identify exactly where the leak is.

    Once the leak has been located, remove and inspect any fittings. If there is damage (such as a crack) then the fitting may need to be replaced. If a seal is damaged it may need to be replaced. If no damage is found then reassemble using food safe lube and retest.

    Pressure Fermentation is a fantastic tool to have in your fermenting arsenal. In the commercial brewing world, most beers are fermented under pressure to some degree due to the size and shape of the tanks used. This means that the pressure at the bottom of the tank is quite significant even if no pressure has been applied to the tank.

    Fermenting under pressure can have several positive benefits.

    1: It can allow elevated temperatures with no off flavours. This in turn can lead to a faster and complete fermentation.

    2: Fermenting under pressure can suppress esters and off flavours, leading to a cleaner beer in the glass.

    3: Fermenting under pressure means that the CO2 produced in large quantities during fermentation can be dissolved back into solution - thus you can achieve complete carbonation y the time the beer is ready to keg.

    NOTE: Not all beers styles are suited to pressure fermentation. Styles such as Belgian beers and Saisons rely on yeast expression and character and thus they are not really good candidates for pressure fermentation.

    To ferment under pressure you will need either the Complete Pressure Brewing Kit:

    Or you will need to purchase the following accessories for your FermZilla (NOTE: Required accessories can differ according to model. Check the product page or contact KegLand if unsure)

    2 x KL10788 (we like to use for Gas, for Liquid for easy identification)

    1 x KL17060

    1 x KB03529

    To transfer your finished beer you will also need some spare transfer line and 2 x . If you do not have spare transfer line then the is ideal

    For a comprehensive guide to Pressure Fermentation please check out this article:

    To ferment under pressure simply replace the black plastic caps on the FermZilla lid with Carbonation Caps. Ensure the Silicon Dip Tube is cut to the correct length and connected to one of the caps using the barb.

    Instead of using the airlock we will use a to control the pressure build up in the tank. Best practice is to not allow pressure build up for the first 24 hours after pitching yeast. This is because pressure can inhibit yeast growth.

    For most fermentations, we recommend setting the Spunding Valve to allow pressure to build to 10-12psi. Under no circumstances should pressure be allowed to go to or higher than 35psi.

    WARNING: If fermenting at high temperatures (above 35psi) do not also ferment under pressure. The combination of high temperature fermentation and pressure can cause failure.

    To set the Spunding Valve two methods can be used.

    1. Wind in the handle of the Spunding Valve (clockwise) and connect it to an empty, pressurised vessel with ball lock posts - a keg is ideal. Ensure the pressure in the keg is higher than the desired set pressure. Slowly unscrew the handle of the Spunding Valve until the desired pressure is reached. Once the Spunding Valve is just venting at the desired pressure it can be removed and put on the FermZilla

    2. Once active fermentation is underway CO2 will be produced quite quickly. You can connect the Spunding Valve to the Gas Post of the FermZIlla and turn the handle clockwise. Pressure will build up over a few hours and thus you can check the FermZilla and valve every 15 minutes and adjust until the desired pressure is reached. NOTE: It is important to constantly monitor the FermZIlla when setting pressure manually in order to ensure there is no possibility of over pressurising the tank

    When fermenting under pressure ensure that the FermZilla is depressurised prior to closing the Butterfly Valve, Removing the Collection Container or removing the FermZilla Lid

    Once fermentation is finished, best practice is to the beer before transferring to your desired packaging.

    To ensure that fermentation is complete before transferring, take a gravity reading across three consecutive days. If the gravity reading is stable and in the expected range we can be sure that fermentation is completed and the beer is ready!

    As a pressure capable fermenter, the FermZilla range is the ideal fermenter for transferring into kegs. This can be easily done with no mess, fuss or risk of oxidation using a once the beer is finished.

    Pressure Transfers

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Pressure Transfers

    Advantages Of Pressure Transfers

    One of the main advantages of a pressurisable FermZilla is the ability to transfer the finished beer into a keg under pressure. This enables a closed transfer with neither the keg nor the FermZilla needing to be opened so that it is possible to all but completely eliminate the risk of oxidation/O2 ingress.

    This is a fantastic boon for the avid homebrewer - avoiding oxidation when transferring helps all beers, especially modern hoppy styles such as NEIPAs.

    Whilst fermenting under pressure can be performed using just the CO2 generated during fermentation, most pressure transfers will require a source of CO2 and a regulator. Options for this include a refillable 2.6kg or 6kg CO2 Cylinder and a MK5 Regulator. If space is limited a KegLand Branded Sodastream cylinder and a Mini 360 regulator are great options.

    There are two easy ways to transfer your beer under pressure. The first step is to sanitise and purge the keg to be filled with CO2.

    Sanitising and Purging Kegs

    1. Once the keg has been cleaned and rinsed, completely fill the keg with sanitiser solution such as StellarSan diluted to the correct ratio

    2. Invert the keg for 120 seconds, then put the right way up to make sure that all surfaces some into contact with the sanitiser

    3. Connect the keg to CO2 at around 10psi. Pull the PRV a couple of times to purge the small amount of headspace

    4. Next we need to push the sanitiser out of the keg. Ideally connect the full keg to an empty, clean keg. Connect the two Liquid (Out) Posts with a short length of line. Put a Spunding Valve on the Gas Post of the empty keg. Use this to vent pressure in the empty keg at around 5psi. The pressure differential will push the sanitiser from the full keg to the empty keg

    5. If you do not have an empty keg then the sanitiser can be transferred into any vessel of around 20L, or simply emptied into the sink.

    6. Once the transfer is complete, the empty keg will now be sanitised and purged of O2. It will also have some residual pressure which is ideal for transferring from the FermZilla

    A can also be repurposed to detect sanitiser rather than beer - check out this video. It is a great way to automate this process.

    Before transferring the finished beer into a keg, we want to ensure that it is completely fermented. Taking a gravity reading over three consecutive is is the best way to ensure this. If the reading is stable for three consecutive days we can be sure that the fermentation is finished.

    Before transferring the completed beer, it is ideal to cold crash the beer.

    Cold crashing is quite simple if you have temperature control for your FermZilla. Simply set the temperature to -1-2°C (or as low as you can if it will not go this low). Once the desired cold crash temperature has been achieved, leave the finished beer at this temperature for 2-4 days. This will 'cold crash' the finished beer. Cold crashing helps a lot with getting solids such as hop matter, yeast and other solids in suspension to drop out of the beer. It also helps to compact the trub in the fermenter. Cold crashing is therefore very beneficial for transferring a clean beer into the keg, minimising trub in the keg.

    If you cannot cold crash that is OK. The integrated filter on the floating dip tube will assist greatly in preventing hop matter etc from being transferred into the keg.

    IMPORTANT: Before cold crashing, you must add pressure to the FermZilla. Positive pressure of approximately 10psi is required. before cold crashing. This is because as the beer gets chilled, CO2 in the headspace will be absorbed into solution. If there is not sufficient pressure (CO2) in the head space, this can cause negative pressure in the FermZilla which can cause the tank to be deformed once the atmospheric pressure is higher than the internal pressure.

    Ideally, hooking the FermZilla to CO2 at around 10psi when cold crashing will prevent this, and also help to carbonate the beer before it is transferred.

    To transfer the finished beer using pressure you will need a transfer line (a short length of line with a liquid disconnect on each end) and a Spunding Valve, as well as a purged, empty keg.

    Following the guide to , you will have a sanitised, O2 free keg with a small amount of residual pressure in it.

    1. Connect the FermZilla to a regulated source of CO2. Set the regulator to ~10psi

    2. Turn the handle of the Spunding Valve clockwise (so that it does not let out pressure). Put the Spunding Valve on the Gas In Post of the sanitised keg

    3. Adjust the Spunding Valve until it is venting at a pressure slightly lower than the pressure in the FermZilla (~7psi). Starting the transfer with a small pressure difference will help to minimise foaming issues

    Another method of pressure transferring the completed beer is a Closed Loop Gravity Transfer. This method is very useful if you wish to do a completely closed transfer (whereby no CO2 is vented during the process). This can be beneficial for super oppy beers as no hop aroma will be 'blown off' during the transfer process.

    Another benefit of a closed transfer is that no additional CO2 is required - the residual pressure in the FermZIlla should be sufficient.

    A Closed Loop transfer is effectively a siphon. Thus, the keg must be lower than the FermZilla for the transfer to complete.

    Following the guide to , you will have a sanitised, O2 free keg with a small amount of residual pressure in it.

    1. Ensure that there is at least 5psi (ideally ~10psi) pressure in the FermZilla

    2. Position the FermZilla and the keg so that the FermZilla is higher than the keg

    3. Connect the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to the Liquid Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the )

    NOTE: There are several ways to either stop the transfer automatically once the keg is full, or alternatively to monitor the process so that it is easy to determine when to stop the transfer.

    A is an easy and inexpensive way to automatically stop the transfer. Simply place the Flow Stopper on the Gas Post of the target keg (you can use a longish length of line in order to add a Spunding Valve to this as well).

    A simple method is to place the keg on before filling. TARE the weright to zero once everything is assembled, and stop filling at around 18.5kg - this will ensure the keg is filled below the gas dip tube.

    If the beer has been cold crashed prior to transfer, then you can use the condensation line on the keg as a guide.

    For a more precise guide for transferring cold crashed beer, a is a great way to help gauge fill volume during the transfer.

    What's Included

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Inclusions

    On the underside of the lid, push the silicone dip tube firmly onto the barb of the yellow Carbonation Cap*
  • Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve

  • Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring or Easy Grip Lid Ring

  • Thread a red and a yellow KL10788 Carbonation Caps onto each post. Do not overtighten - these are a wedge seal. Overtightening can crack the posts which will prevent a pressure seal
  • On the underside of the lid, push the silicone dip tube firmly onto the barb of the yellow Carbonation Cap*

  • Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve

  • Assemble the Butterfly Valve and Hop Bong. A 2" Tri-Clover clamp and beaded seal i used to secure the butterfly valve to the lid, and the Hop Bong to the butterfly valve. We recommend fitting a PRV 1881 Cap Combo to the side outlet of the Hop Bong

  • Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring

  • Tighten the two nuts while holding the bolts to prevent them from spinning. Do not overtighten as it can warp the opening of the FermZilla. The handles should be able to freely rotate around the neck of the FermZilla. If they cannot rotate then it is too tight

  • Carbonation of small samples

  • Yeast culturing container

  • Assemble this against the corresponding groove in the 3" tri-clover butterfly valve, and fasten with the 3” tri-clover 3-piece clamp, ensuring that the seal is seated in the groove on the butterfly valve and collection container

    Lid Assembly | With Carbonation Caps and Dip Tube (for Pressure Fermentation and Transfer)

    Lid Assembly | Hop Bong (for O2 free Dry-Hopping, Pressure Fermentation and Transfer)

    FermZilla 304 Stainless Steel Handle Assembly*

    FermZilla – Butterfly (Dump) Valve Assembly

    FermZilla Butterfly (Dump) Valve Disassembly

    FermZilla – 600ml Collection Container

    FermZilla – 600ml Collection Container Assembly

    FermZilla - Collection Container Removal & Safety

    Floating Dip Tube Length

    Ball Float Position

    Graduation Sticker

    red
    yellow
    food grade lube
    food grade lube
    red
    yellow
    PCO1881 threaded PRV Cap Combo
    Stainless Steel Float with Silicone Dip Tube and Mesh Filter
    FermZIlla Lid Assembly | Caps and Airlock
    FermZilla Lid Assembly | With Carbonation Caps and Dip Tube (for Pressure Fermentation and Transfer)
    FermZIlla Lid Assembly | Hop Bong (for O2 free Dry-Hopping, Pressure Fermentation and Transfer)
    3" Tri-Clover Beaded Seal Fitting
    600ml Tritan Collection Container
    Assembly - 600ml Collection Container & butterfly valve
    FermZIlla Ball Float and Dip Tube Length
    Three Optional Ball Float Positions

    Fermenting Under Pressure

    Setting The Spunding Valve To The Desired Pressure

    30L FermZilla All Rounder Complete Pressure Brewing Kit
    60L FermZilla All Rounder Complete Pressure Brewing Kit
    Gen3 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Complete Pressure Brewing Kit
    Gen3 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Complete Pressure Brewing Kit
    Carbonation Caps
    Red
    Yellow
    100cm Silicone Dip Tube Kit with Yellow Weighted Filter and SS Float
    Integrated Gauge BlowTie Kit (0-15psi)
    Ball Lock Disconnects
    Big Jumper Kit
    A Guide To Pressure Fermentation
    Blowtie Spunding Valve
    cold crash
    pressure transfer
    Fermenting under pressure with Spunding Valve
    Red 35psi PRV
    lid o-ring
    Grommet PCO1881 Black Cap
    Blank PCO1881 Black Cap for Lid
    Three Piece Airlock
    Strip Stick on Thermometer
    30L
    60L
    BlowTie Integrated Spunding Valve Kit
    duotight 8mm x Gas Ball Lock Disconnect
    8mm Rigid Joiner Tube
    FermZilla Nylon Web Strapping
    Series X Plus Installation Video
    Connect the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to the Liquid Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the Big Jumper)
  • The pressure differential will 'push' the finished beer into the keg

  • Once the transfer is under way, you can adjust the Spunding Valve down to about 5psi. The greater pressure differential will speed up the transfer process

  • Once the transfer is complete, disconnect the transfer line from both posts. Remove the Spunding Valve from the keg. Remove the gas line from the FermZilla

  • Congratulations! The finished beer is now kegged and ready to go. It should now be p[laced in a kegerator or similar ready for dispensing. If it was fermented and cold crashed under pressure then it will already be partially or completely carbonated. Connect the keg to CO2 at 10-12psi to complete carbonation if required

  • Provided there is less pressure in the keg than the FermZilla, beer will start to transfer. If beer does not begin to flow, pull the PRV of the keg to lower the pressure in the keg until the transfer begins
  • Once the transfer is underway, connect the Gas Post of the FermZilla to the Gas Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the Big Jumper). This will keep the pressures equalised between the FermZilla and the keg, enabled the transfer to complete as a siphon

  • Once the transfer is complete, disconnect the transfer line from both liquid posts. Remove the gas line from the FermZilla and the keg

  • Congratulations! The finished beer is now kegged and ready to go. It should now be p[laced in a kegerator or similar ready for dispensing. If it was fermented and cold crashed under pressure then it will already be partially or completely carbonated. Connect the keg to CO2 at 10-12psi to complete carbonation if required

  • Transferring Finished Beer Under Pressure

    Cold Crashing Before Transfer

    Pressure Transfer

    Closed Loop (Gravity) Transfer

    FOBS (Foam On Beer) detector
    Sanitising and Purging Kegs
    Sanitising and Purging Kegs
    Big Jumper
    duotight Flow Stopper
    Digital Home Brew Scales
    Cold Activated Keg Filler Sticker
    Pressure Transfer Setup | FermZilla
    Closed Loop Transfer | FermZilla
    27L & 55L Gen3 Tri-Conical FermZilla

    27L & 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Easy-Grip Pressure Fermenter Starter Kit

    27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Tank
    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Tank
    FermZilla Easy-Grip Threaded Lid Ring
    Pressure Lid
    Red 35psi PRV
    lid o-ring
    Strip Stick on Thermometer

    Gen3 27L & 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Starter Kit with handle

    Gen3 27L & 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Complete Pressure Brewing Kit

    Gen3 27L & 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Hop Bong Complete Pressure Brewing Kit

    Big Jumper
    Big Jumper
    StellarOxy
    Stellarclean
    StellarSan

    Operation

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Operation

    Display Panel Legend

    Display Panel Legend
    1. Power Button

    2. SET Button

    3. Up and Down Buttons

    4. Compressor Cycle Indicator (flashes during compressor cooldown cycle)

    5. Fan Indicator

    6. Celsius/Fahrenheit Button

    7. Manual LED Button

    To adjust the Set Point Temperature:

    1. Press the SET button to display the current Set Point Temperature.

    2. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify and save the Set Point Temperature

    3. Press the SET button to exit the Adjustment Status and display the current actual temperature

    To change the displayed temperature between Celsius and Fahrenheit press the °C/°F button. Press it again to revert to the previous units.

    The internal LED is automatically turned on when the door is opened. It can be manually operated - turned on or off - using the Light Button. The LED is on a timer so it will automatically turn off after 2 minutes.

    The KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator has a defrost cycle programmed in. Should you wish to perform a manual defrost for any reason (such as visible ice build up) this can be performed by pressing the Up button for 6 seconds to begin a defrost cycle. If a defrost cycle is running, performing this operation will manually stop the defrost cycle.

    Hysteresis is the allowed differntial from the Set Point Temperature before the compressor (cooling) operates. Thus, if the Set Point Temperature is 2°C and the Hysteresis is 3°C then the compressor will operate when the internal temperature reads 5°C, and it will continue to operate until the Set Point Temperature of 2°C is reached. The default hysteresis is 3°C, which is appropriate for most circumstances.

    Note: Decreasing the hysteresis can increase power consumption

    1. Press the SET button and hold for 8 seconds to enter the parameter setup mode - L1 will flash on the display

    2. Press the SET button to cycle through Parameters until L3 is displayed

    3. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Hysteresis

    If there is a large variance between the displayed temperature (IE the temperature of the internal temperature probe and the actual internal temperature of the kegerator (as measureed by a calibrated thermometer) then the Temperature Offset can be adjusted from -20°C to 20°C

    A Temperature Offset will offset the displayed temperature by the entered amount.

    Thus, if the displayed temperature is 2°C but the actual internal temperature is 4°C, and offset of +2°C is required.

    Note: In most cases this is not necessary to be adjusted. There will be minor temperature differences in the kegerator due to airflow etc.

    1. Press the SET button and hold for 8 seconds to enter the parameter setup mode - L1 will flash on the display

    2. Press the SET button to cycle through Parameters until L5 is displayed

    3. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Temperature Offset (from 20°C to -20°C)

    1. Press the SET button and hold for 8 seconds to enter the parameter setup mode - L1 will flash on the display

    2. Press the SET button to cycle through Parameters until F1 is displayed

    3. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Defrost Duration (from 1 minute to 60 minutes). The default setting is 30 minutes

    1. Press the SET button and hold for 8 seconds to enter the parameter setup mode - L1 will flash on the display

    2. Press the SET button to cycle through Parameters until F2 is displayed

    3. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Defrost Interval Time (from 00 hours to 24 hours). The default setting is 4 hours

    To reset all settings (Set Point, Hysteresis, Offset etc) to factory defaults, press and hold the Up or Down buttons simultaneously for 8 seconds until the display flashes 888, then release. This will restore the unit to factory defaults.

    Refer below for a list of all functions and defaulty settings. it is strongly recommended to not adjust any settings unless advised except for the Temperature Set Point as needed. Please note that failure due to incorrect settings (such as insufficient defrost cycle time or compresser delay time) will not be covered under warranty.

    Parameter
    Function
    Range
    Default

    Troubleshooting

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Troubleshooting

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution
    Red 35psi PRV
    lid o-ring
    Grommet PCO1881 Black Cap
    Blank PCO1881 Black Cap
    Three Piece Airlock
    Strip Stick on Thermometer
    27L
    55L
    3 Inch tri-clover to 3 Inch tri-clover Butterfly Valve
    3 Inch tri-clover 3 Piece Clamp
    3 Inch tri-clover Beaded Seal
    3 Inch tri-clover Black POK End Caps
    600mL Collection Container with 2 x Blank PCO1881 Black Caps
    Spare Lid O-ring
    BlowTie Integrated Spunding Valve Kit
    duotight 8mm x Gas Ball Lock Disconnect
    8mm Rigid Joiner Tube

    Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 6 seconds)

    Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 6 seconds)

    Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 6 seconds)

    Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 6 seconds)

    Set Point - 8°C (46°F)

    8°C (46°F)

    L3

    Hysteresis

    01-20°C (01-36°F)

    3°C (5°F)

    L4

    Compressor Delay Time

    0-10 minutes

    2 minutes

    L5

    Temperature Offset

    -20-20°C (-36-36°F)

    0°C (0°F)

    F1

    Max Defrost Duration

    1-60 minutes

    30 minutes

    F2

    Defrost Interval Time

    0-24 hours

    4 hours

    F6

    Display During Defrost

    00-Normal Display 01-Last Value Before Defrost 02-DEF

    01

    L1

    Lowest Setpoint Limit

    -5°C (23°F) - Set Point

    -01°C (30°F)

    L2

    Adjusting the Set Point Temperature

    Change Display between Celsius and Fahrenheit

    Manually operate the internal LED

    Enter Manual Defrost

    Adjust Hysteresis

    To Adjust the Hysteresis

    Temperature Calibration

    To Adjust the Offset

    To Adjust the Defrost Duration

    To Adjust the Defrost Interval Time

    Factory Reset

    All Functions

    Highest Setpoint Limit

    BlowTie Spunding Valve Cleaning
    BlowTie Spunding Valve Cleaning

    Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Refer to to fix over-carbonated beer

    Pouring too slowly

    CO2 pressure may be too low. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this for more info

    Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved.

    Beer is too foamy/frothy

    Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Typically most beers in a short draw system are served at approx. 10-12psi. Refer to to fix over-carbonated beer

    Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can partially freeze the beer in the line. This creates turbulence in the line which can cause excess foam. Ensure the beer lines are not in contact with the cold plate.

    Beer may be too warm. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator or leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled

    Beer does not have enough head

    Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved. Please refer to this for more info

    Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer may be too cold.

    (Homebrew) Beer may not have much head. Not all beer styles produce a lot of head - this may be due to the grist of the particular brew or possibly a brewing technique affected the head

    No beer comes out of tap

    Lines or connections may be blocked. If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the PRV. Remove the liquid post with a socket or spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post

    The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can freeze the beer in the line and partially or completely block the flow. Ensure the lines do not come into contact with the cold plate

    CO2 cylinder may be empty. If there is insufficient CO2 to pressurise the head space of the keg then beer will not pour. Replace or refill the CO2 cylinder if empty

    Keg may be frozen. If the Set Point is too low or there is an issue with the temp probe calibration, the keg(s) may freeze. Check and correct the and Set Point of the kegerator

    Beer is too warm

    Kegerator may not be cold enough. Check and of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour

    Keg may not be cold enough. Leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled. This can take up to 24 hours (for example) with a room temperature 50L keg

    Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

    Font not cool enough. Direct the Font Fan tubing to the top of the font. Cut the Font Fan tubing to the correct length. Cut the tubing at a 45° angle to ensure it remains unobstructed. Ensure the fan is turned on

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    CO2 Cylinder is empty

    Cylinder may be used up. It takes approx 6g of CO2 to dispense 1L of beer at normal serving pressure. Thus, a 2.6kg CO2 cylinder will dispense approx. 8 x 50L kegs. More CO2 will be used if also carbonating the kegs. Refill the CO2 cylinder when empty

    Possible Gas Leak. Perform an to check for potential CO2 leaks

    Problem
    Possible Cause and Solution

    Kegerator not cooling to set point temperature

    Set Point may be too high. Check and of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour

    Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Front vents may be covered. The UnderCover kegerator is designed to be built into a typical 600mm cabinet and thus does not require celarance at the sides or rear. The front vents require ventilation. Ensure that these are not covered or cooling performance and warranty may be affected

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    How to adjust Set Point Temperature

    Press the Up or Down buttons to select the desired et Point. Press the SET button to save the Set Point

    Excessive noise from fan

    Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up there is likely also ice in the fan housing. The fan lades will hit this when spinning causing excessive noise. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Loose wiring. It is possible for the lead to the fan to become slightly loose and contact the blades causing noise. Remove the fan housing and reposition the wire to prevent it from contacting the blades

    Internal Line DIameter
    Suggested Beer Line Length

    4mm

    1.5 metres – 2 metres

    5mm

    2 metres – 3 metres

    6.35mm

    3 metres – 4 metres

    If your beer is foaming after checking CO2 pressure, beer line length and kegerator temperature, then possibly the beer is over-carbonated. If this is the gas, then the carbonation level of the beer in the keg will need to be reduced in order to get a good pour.

    19L Cornelius Kegs have a PRV (Pressure Relief Valve) which makes releasing excess pressure quite easy. TO fix an over-carbonated 19L keg (or any homebrew keg with a PRV such as a 20L OXEBAR keg) follow these steps:

    1. Disconnect the gas line to the keg

    2. Pull the PRV to vent all headspace pressure

    3. Wait a couple of hours and then repeat. DO not reconnect the gas line until the desired carbonation level has dropped

    This process can be sped up if the keg is removed from the kegerator and allowed to come to room temperature - CO2 will come out of solution faster at room temperatures. You can also vent the PRV, then close the PRV and shake the keg for 30 seconds, then vent it again. This will help force CO2 out of solution. Please note that this can cause beer or foam to spray from the PRV when venting, so proceed with caution.

    Commercial kegs such as 20L, 30L or 50L kegs which are connected to the beer and gas lines by a coupler do not have a PRV, so it is a bit trickier to vent excess carbonation.

    If the beer is only slightly over carbonated, the easiest way to reduce carbonation is to turn off the CO2 cylinder valve and pour beer as normal. CO2 will come out of solution as the headspace pressure is purged. This will take a while however, depending on the level of over-carbonation.

    To speed this up, remove the keg from the kegerator to allow it to come to room temperature. CO2 will come out of solution faster when the beer is warm.

    This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

    KegLand Carbonation Chart

    Pouring too quickly

    Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    CO2 pressure may be too high. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info

    Beer is not pouring or not pouring well

    Gas Issues & Gas Leaks

    Kegerator cooling issues

    General Troubleshooting

    Beer Line Length Guide

    How To Fix An Over Carbonated Keg

    19L Corny Keg

    Commercial Keg

    Carbonation Chart

    Operation

    Grand Deluxe 3 | Operation

    Operation | Dixell Controller

    Front Panel Operation

    Display Set Point or (in Programming Mode) select Paramater of confirm operation

    Begin Manual Defrost Cycle

    Increase displayed value or (in Programming Mode) cycle through displayed values

    Decrease displayed value or (in Programming Mode) cycle through displayed values

    Display Legend

    LED
    MODE
    DESCRIPTION

    Push theButton - this will display the current Set Point Temperature

    To Adjust the Set Point Temperature

    1. Hold theButton for 3 seconds until the display shows the current Set Point and the °C or °F symbol starts flashing

    2. Use the or buttons to change the Set Point Temperature

    Press theManual Defrost Button for more than 2 seconds to start a defrost cycle manually. The Defrost indicator will illuminate

    The Dixell Controller has several advanced programabble features that can be tailired for individual situtations. In most ases, the default values will suit. However, as this is a commercial unit, we recommend programming the Defrost Cycle to a suitable length and interval to avoid ice build up. If ice is allowed to build up inside the compressor housing, this will negatively affect performance and potentially void warranty.

    1. Enter the Programming mode by pressing the Button and or buttons for 3 seconds. The °C or °F symbol will start flashing

    2. Select the required parameter using theor buttons

    3. When the desired parameter is displayed, press the Button to display the current stored value of the parameter

    The following parameters can be selected and adjusted in Programming Mode. To adjust any parameter, enter and navigate to the desired parameter

    Hysteresis is the allowed differential from the Set Point Temperature before the compressor (cooling) operates. Thus, if the Set Point Temperature is 2°C and the Hysteresis is 2°C then the compressor will operate when the internal temperature reads 4°C, and it will continue to operate until the Set Point Temperature of 2°C is reached. The default hysteresis is 2°C, which is appropriate for most circumstances.

    Note: Decreasing the hysteresis can increase power consumption

    1. Enter and navigate to Hy using theor buttons

    2. The Differential Range can be adjusted between 0.1-25°C or 1-45°F. The default is 4°C

    3. Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Hysteresis

    1. Enter and navigate to LS using theor buttons

    2. The Minimum Set Point can be adjusted down to -55°C or -67°F. The default is 0°C

    3. Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Minimum Set Point

    1. Enter and navigate to US using theor buttons

    2. The Maximum Set Point can be adjusted up to 99°C or °F. The default is 10°C

    3. Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Maximum Set Point

    If there is a large variance between the displayed temperature (IE the temperature of the internal temperature probe and the actual internal temperature of the kegerator (as measureed by a calibrated thermometer) then the Temperature Offset can be adjusted from -9.9°C to +9.9°C

    A Temperature Offset will offset the displayed temperature by the entered amount.

    Thus, if the displayed temperature is 2°C but the actual internal temperature is 4°C, and offset of +2°C is required.

    Note: In most cases this is not necessary to be adjusted. There will be minor temperature differences in the kegerator due to airflow etc. This may also be pre-adjusted in the factory.

    1. Enter and navigate to ot using theor buttons

    2. The Probe Calibration Offset can be adjusted from -9.9°C to +9.9°C. This may be at a value other than 0°C due to factory calibration.

    3. Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Probe Calibration Offset

    1. Enter and navigate to CF using theor buttons

    2. Use theor buttons to cycle the display between Cesius (°C) and Fahrenheit (°F)

    3. Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter

    The Grand Deluxe 3 range are commercial units. As such, they have very powerful compressors. It is important that an adequate Defrost Cycle is programmed in to ensure that ice does not build up on the cooling fins. Failure to program an adequate defrost cycle can reduce the performance of the unit and may also void warranty.

    • Enter and navigate to id using theor buttons

    • The Defrost Interval can be adjusted from 0-99 hours. The default is 6

    • Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Defrost Interval

    • Enter and navigate to Nd using theor buttons

    • The Maximum defrost length can be adjusted from 0-99 minutes. The default is 20

    • Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Defrost length

    Troubleshooting

    Series X User Guide | Troubleshooting

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    Troubleshooting

    Series X Plus User Guide | Troubleshooting

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    Troubleshooting

    Series 4 User Guide | Troubleshooting

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    Door left open/not closed properly. If the door is not properly closed or misaligned the kegerator may not cool adequately. Ensure the door is closed and aligned properly

    Not calibrated properly. If the kegerator is not cooling adequately but the compressor is cycling at the Set Point temperature the kegerator may require Calibration.

    Hot environment. If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system

    Kegerator is too cold

    Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform Offset Calibration to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

    Set Point temperature may be incorrect. Check the Set Point temperature. For best results set this to 2°C. Setting too low a temperature may cause freezing or performance issues

    Ice build up on cold plate

    Moisture or humidity ingress. If the door is left open or the seals are damaged or dirty then ice can build up on the cold plate. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    EE Error

    This is an electrical fault. This can be caused by a faulty Temperature Probe (Thermistor) or a loose connection or damaged or faulty connection. Try replacing the Temperature Probe. Inspect the board for loose or damaged connections

    Water is leaking from kegerator

    Melted ice build up. If there is too much water, moisture or humidity ingress in the kegerator, the ice build up can overwhelm the evaporator plate at the rear of the kegerator. Defrost the kegerator (if necessary) by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    this guide
    Carbonation Chart
    this chart
    this guide
    this chart
    Carbonation Chart
    this chart
    Increase the Set Point of the kegerator
    calibration
    adjust the Set Point
    Offset Calibration
    Isolation Test
    adjust the Set Point

    Fan enabled

    Flashing

    Fan on delay after Defrost

    OR

    On

    Current Temperature

    OR

    Flashing

    Programming Mode Active

    Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter

  • Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter

  • To exit Programming Mode, press the Button and thebutton or wait for 15 seconds without pushing any buttons. This revert the controller.

  • Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter
    Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter
    Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter
    Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter
    Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter
    Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter

    On

    Compressor enabled

    Flashing

    Compressor Delay active

    On

    Defrost in progress

    Operation

    Viewing the Set Point

    Adjusting the Set Point Temperature

    Starting a manual Defrost Cycle

    Programming Mode

    Enter Programming Mode

    Adjusting Parameters

    Adjust Hysteresis

    To Adjust the Hysteresis [Hy]

    Adjust Minimum Set Point [LS]

    Adjust Maximum Set Point [US]

    Temperature Probe Calibration [ot]

    To Adjust the Temperature Probe Offset [ot]

    Change Display Units (Celsius/Fahrenheit) [CF]

    Defrost Cycle Adjustments

    Defrost Interval (interval between defrost cycles) [id]

    Maximum defrost length [Nd]

    Programming Mode
    Programming Mode
    Programming Mode
    Programming Mode
    Programming Mode
    Programming Mode
    Programming Mode
    Programming Mode

    On

    Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Refer to to fix over-carbonated beer

    Pouring too slowly

    CO2 pressure may be too low. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this for more info

    Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved.

    Beer is too foamy/frothy

    Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Typically most beers in a short draw system are served at approx. 10-12psi. Refer to to fix over-carbonated beer

    Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can partially freeze the beer in the line. This creates turbulence in the line which can cause excess foam. Ensure the beer lines are not in contact with the cold plate.

    Beer may be too warm. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator or leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled

    Beer does not have enough head

    Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved. Please refer to this for more info

    Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer may be too cold.

    (Homebrew) Beer may not have much head. Not all beer styles produce a lot of head - this may be due to the grist of the particular brew or possibly a brewing technique affected the head

    No beer comes out of tap

    Lines or connections may be blocked. If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the PRV. Remove the liquid post with a socket or spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post

    The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can freeze the beer in the line and partially or completely block the flow. Ensure the lines do not come into contact with the cold plate

    CO2 cylinder may be empty. If there is insufficient CO2 to pressurise the head space of the keg then beer will not pour. Replace or refill the CO2 cylinder if empty

    Keg may be frozen. If the Set Point is too low or there is an issue with the temp probe calibration, the keg(s) may freeze. Check and correct the and Set Point of the kegerator

    Beer is too warm

    Kegerator may not be cold enough. Check and of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour

    Keg may not be cold enough. Leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled. This can take up to 24 hours (for example) with a room temperature 50L keg

    Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

    Font not cool enough. Direct the Font Fan tubing to the top of the font. Cut the Font Fan tubing to the correct length. Cut the tubing at a 45° angle to ensure it remains unobstructed. Ensure the fan is turned on

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    CO2 Cylinder is empty

    Cylinder may be used up. It takes approx 6g of CO2 to dispense 1L of beer at normal serving pressure. Thus, a 2.6kg CO2 cylinder will dispense approx. 8 x 50L kegs. More CO2 will be used if also carbonating the kegs. Refill the CO2 cylinder when empty

    Possible Gas Leak. Perform an to check for potential CO2 leaks

    Problem
    Possible Cause and Solution

    Kegerator not cooling to set point temperature

    Insufficient clearance. A minimum of 100mm clearance is required on each side of the kegerator to ensure adequate heat dissipation for the condensers. Move the kegerator into open space to improve cooling efficiency

    Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Door left open/not closed properly. If the door is not properly closed or misaligned the kegerator may not cool adequately. Ensure the door is closed and aligned properly

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    Sides of kegerator are extremely warm

    This is normal. The heat generated during refrigerant cooling is radiated from the left and right hand side of the kegerator. During normal operation these can get quite warm/hot. This is typically more apparent when the kegerator is cooling from ambient (so the compressor will be working harder and for longer). NOTE: It is vital that this unit has a minimum of 100mm clearance on each side for adequate cooling performance

    Cannot adjust Set Point Temperature

    Child Lock engaged. These have a built in Child Lock. , press and hold the Warmer button for 5 seconds until the display flashes (the displayed number is the current Set Point)

    Excessive noise from fan

    Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up there is likely also ice in the fan housing. The fan lades will hit this when spinning causing excessive noise. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Kegerators are not domestic fridges and thus will make noises that are quite different to a standard domestic fridge. A gurgling or similar noise is quite common, and not considered unusual. The kegerators use a highly efficient refrigerant gas which can sound like gurgling. This is often more noticeable when the fridge is empty or the kegerator is brand new. Any noises are often reduced once the kegerator is filled with kegs due to the large thermal mass of the kegs.

    Refrigerant noise is often more noticeable in a new kegerator, as it can take time for the coolant to settle.

    To avoid excessive refrigerant noise, it is vital to leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least 24 hours after transit.

    In addition, if tipping the kegerator over (to install castors, for example) the kegerator must be tipped towards the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues.

    Leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least one hour before switching on after installing castors or tipping the kegerator for any other reason.

    If the fan is making excessive noise refer to General Troubleshooting

    Internal Line DIameter
    Suggested Beer Line Length

    4mm

    1.5 metres – 2 metres

    5mm

    2 metres – 3 metres

    6.35mm

    3 metres – 4 metres

    If your beer is foaming after checking CO2 pressure, beer line length and kegerator temperature, then possibly the beer is over-carbonated. If this is the gas, then the carbonation level of the beer in the keg will need to be reduced in order to get a good pour.

    19L Cornelius Kegs have a PRV (Pressure Relief Valve) which makes releasing excess pressure quite easy. TO fix an over-carbonated 19L keg (or any homebrew keg with a PRV such as a 20L OXEBAR keg) follow these steps:

    1. Disconnect the gas line to the keg

    2. Pull the PRV to vent all headspace pressure

    3. Wait a couple of hours and then repeat. DO not reconnect the gas line until the desired carbonation level has dropped

    This process can be sped up if the keg is removed from the kegerator and allowed to come to room temperature - CO2 will come out of solution faster at room temperatures. You can also vent the PRV, then close the PRV and shake the keg for 30 seconds, then vent it again. This will help force CO2 out of solution. Please note that this can cause beer or foam to spray from the PRV when venting, so proceed with caution.

    Commercial kegs such as 20L, 30L or 50L kegs which are connected to the beer and gas lines by a coupler do not have a PRV, so it is a bit trickier to vent excess carbonation.

    If the beer is only slightly over carbonated, the easiest way to reduce carbonation is to turn off the CO2 cylinder valve and pour beer as normal. CO2 will come out of solution as the headspace pressure is purged. This will take a while however, depending on the level of over-carbonation.

    To speed this up, remove the keg from the kegerator to allow it to come to room temperature. CO2 will come out of solution faster when the beer is warm.

    This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

    KegLand Carbonation Chart

    Pouring too quickly

    Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    CO2 pressure may be too high. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info

    Beer is not pouring or not pouring well

    Gas Issues & Gas Leaks

    Kegerator cooling issues

    General Troubleshooting

    Kegerator Noise

    Beer Line Length Guide

    How To Fix An Over Carbonated Keg

    19L Corny Keg

    Commercial Keg

    Carbonation Chart

    Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Refer to to fix over-carbonated beer

    Pouring too slowly

    CO2 pressure may be too low. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this for more info

    Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved.

    Beer is too foamy/frothy

    Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Typically most beers in a short draw system are served at approx. 10-12psi. Refer to to fix over-carbonated beer

    Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can partially freeze the beer in the line. This creates turbulence in the line which can cause excess foam. Ensure the beer lines are not in contact with the cold plate.

    Beer may be too warm. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator or leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled

    Beer does not have enough head

    Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved. Please refer to this for more info

    Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer may be too cold.

    (Homebrew) Beer may not have much head. Not all beer styles produce a lot of head - this may be due to the grist of the particular brew or possibly a brewing technique affected the head

    No beer comes out of tap

    Lines or connections may be blocked. If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the PRV. Remove the liquid post with a socket or spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post

    The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can freeze the beer in the line and partially or completely block the flow. Ensure the lines do not come into contact with the cold plate

    CO2 cylinder may be empty. If there is insufficient CO2 to pressurise the head space of the keg then beer will not pour. Replace or refill the CO2 cylinder if empty

    Keg may be frozen. If the Set Point is too low or there is an issue with the temp probe calibration, the keg(s) may freeze. Check and correct the and Set Point of the kegerator

    Beer is too warm

    Kegerator may not be cold enough. Check and of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour

    Keg may not be cold enough. Leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled. This can take up to 24 hours (for example) with a room temperature 50L keg

    Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

    Font not cool enough. Direct the Font Fan tubing to the top of the font. Cut the Font Fan tubing to the correct length. Cut the tubing at a 45° angle to ensure it remains unobstructed. Ensure the fan is turned on

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    CO2 Cylinder is empty

    Cylinder may be used up. It takes approx 6g of CO2 to dispense 1L of beer at normal serving pressure. Thus, a 2.6kg CO2 cylinder will dispense approx. 8 x 50L kegs. More CO2 will be used if also carbonating the kegs. Refill the CO2 cylinder when empty

    Possible Gas Leak. Perform an to check for potential CO2 leaks

    Problem
    Possible Cause and Solution

    Kegerator not cooling to set point temperature

    Insufficient clearance. A minimum of 100mm clearance is required on each side of the kegerator to ensure adequate heat dissipation for the condensers. Move the kegerator into open space to improve cooling efficiency

    Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Door left open/not closed properly. If the door is not properly closed or misaligned the kegerator may not cool adequately. Ensure the door is closed and aligned properly

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    Sides of kegerator are extremely warm

    This is normal. The heat generated during refrigerant cooling is radiated from the left and right hand side of the kegerator. During normal operation these can get quite warm/hot. This is typically more apparent when the kegerator is cooling from ambient (so the compressor will be working harder and for longer). NOTE: It is vital that this unit has a minimum of 100mm clearance on each side for adequate cooling performance

    Cannot adjust Set Point Temperature

    Child Lock engaged. These have a built in Child Lock. , press and hold the Warmer button for 5 seconds until the display flashes (the displayed number is the current Set Point)

    Excessive noise from fan

    Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up there is likely also ice in the fan housing. The fan lades will hit this when spinning causing excessive noise. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Kegerators are not domestic fridges and thus will make noises that are quite different to a standard domestic fridge. A gurgling or similar noise is quite common, and not considered unusual. The kegerators use a highly efficient refrigerant gas which can sound like gurgling. This is often more noticeable when the fridge is empty or the kegerator is brand new. Any noises are often reduced once the kegerator is filled with kegs due to the large thermal mass of the kegs.

    Refrigerant noise is often more noticeable in a new kegerator, as it can take time for the coolant to settle.

    To avoid excessive refrigerant noise, it is vital to leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least 24 hours after transit.

    In addition, if tipping the kegerator over (to install castors, for example) the kegerator must be tipped towards the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues.

    Leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least one hour before switching on after installing castors or tipping the kegerator for any other reason.

    If the fan is making excessive noise refer to General Troubleshooting

    Internal Line DIameter
    Suggested Beer Line Length

    4mm

    1.5 metres – 2 metres

    5mm

    2 metres – 3 metres

    6.35mm

    3 metres – 4 metres

    If your beer is foaming after checking CO2 pressure, beer line length and kegerator temperature, then possibly the beer is over-carbonated. If this is the gas, then the carbonation level of the beer in the keg will need to be reduced in order to get a good pour.

    19L Cornelius Kegs have a PRV (Pressure Relief Valve) which makes releasing excess pressure quite easy. TO fix an over-carbonated 19L keg (or any homebrew keg with a PRV such as a 20L OXEBAR keg) follow these steps:

    1. Disconnect the gas line to the keg

    2. Pull the PRV to vent all headspace pressure

    3. Wait a couple of hours and then repeat. DO not reconnect the gas line until the desired carbonation level has dropped

    This process can be sped up if the keg is removed from the kegerator and allowed to come to room temperature - CO2 will come out of solution faster at room temperatures. You can also vent the PRV, then close the PRV and shake the keg for 30 seconds, then vent it again. This will help force CO2 out of solution. Please note that this can cause beer or foam to spray from the PRV when venting, so proceed with caution.

    Commercial kegs such as 20L, 30L or 50L kegs which are connected to the beer and gas lines by a coupler do not have a PRV, so it is a bit trickier to vent excess carbonation.

    If the beer is only slightly over carbonated, the easiest way to reduce carbonation is to turn off the CO2 cylinder valve and pour beer as normal. CO2 will come out of solution as the headspace pressure is purged. This will take a while however, depending on the level of over-carbonation.

    To speed this up, remove the keg from the kegerator to allow it to come to room temperature. CO2 will come out of solution faster when the beer is warm.

    This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the regulator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

    KegLand Carbonation Chart

    Pouring too quickly

    Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer is not pouring or not pouring well

    CO2 pressure may be too high. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this for more info

    Gas Issues & Gas Leaks

    Kegerator cooling issues

    General Troubleshooting

    Kegerator Noise

    Beer Line Length Guide

    How To Fix An Over Carbonated Keg

    19L Corny Keg

    Commercial Keg

    Carbonation Chart

    Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Refer to to fix over-carbonated beer

    Pouring too slowly

    CO2 pressure may be too low. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this for more info

    Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved.

    Beer is too foamy/frothy

    Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Typically most beers in a short draw system are served at approx. 10-12psi. Refer to to fix over-carbonated beer

    Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can partially freeze the beer in the line. This creates turbulence in the line which can cause excess foam. Ensure the beer lines are not in contact with the cold plate.

    Beer may be too warm. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator or leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled

    Beer does not have enough head

    Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved. Please refer to this for more info

    Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer may be too cold.

    (Homebrew) Beer may not have much head. Not all beer styles produce a lot of head - this may be due to the grist of the particular brew or possibly a brewing technique affected the head

    No beer comes out of tap

    Lines or connections may be blocked. If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the PRV. Remove the liquid post with a socket or spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post

    The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can freeze the beer in the line and partially or completely block the flow. Ensure the lines do not come into contact with the cold plate

    CO2 cylinder may be empty. If there is insufficient CO2 to pressurise the head space of the keg then beer will not pour. Replace or refill the CO2 cylinder if empty

    Keg may be frozen. If the Set Point is too low or there is an issue with the temp probe calibration, the keg(s) may freeze. Check and correct the and Set Point of the kegerator

    Beer is too warm

    Kegerator may not be cold enough. Check and of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour

    Keg may not be cold enough. Leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled. This can take up to 24 hours (for example) with a room temperature 50L keg

    Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

    Font not cool enough. Direct the Font Fan tubing to the top of the font. Cut the Font Fan tubing to the correct length. Cut the tubing at a 45° angle to ensure it remains unobstructed. Ensure the fan is turned on

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    CO2 Cylinder is empty

    Cylinder may be used up. It takes approx 6g of CO2 to dispense 1L of beer at normal serving pressure. Thus, a 2.6kg CO2 cylinder will dispense approx. 8 x 50L kegs. More CO2 will be used if also carbonating the kegs. Refill the CO2 cylinder when empty

    Possible Gas Leak. Perform an to check for potential CO2 leaks

    Problem
    Possible Cause and Solution

    Kegerator not cooling to set point temperature

    Insufficient clearance. A minimum of 100mm clearance is required on each side of the kegerator to ensure adequate heat dissipation for the condensers. Move the kegerator into open space to improve cooling efficiency

    Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Door left open/not closed properly. If the door is not properly closed or misaligned the kegerator may not cool adequately. Ensure the door is closed and aligned properly

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    Sides of kegerator are extremely warm

    This is normal. The heat generated during refrigerant cooling is radiated from the left and right hand side of the kegerator. During normal operation these can get quite warm/hot. This is typically more apparent when the kegerator is cooling from ambient (so the compressor will be working harder and for longer). NOTE: It is vital that this unit has a minimum of 100mm clearance on each side for adequate cooling performance

    Cannot adjust Set Point Temperature

    Child Lock engaged. These have a built in Child Lock. , press and hold the Warmer button for 5 seconds until the display flashes (the displayed number is the current Set Point)

    Excessive noise from fan

    Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up there is likely also ice in the fan housing. The fan lades will hit this when spinning causing excessive noise. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Kegerators are not domestic fridges and thus will make noises that are quite different to a standard domestic fridge. A gurgling or similar noise is quite common, and not considered unusual. The kegerators use a highly efficient refrigerant gas which can sound like gurgling. This is often more noticeable when the fridge is empty or the kegerator is brand new. Any noises are often reduced once the kegerator is filled with kegs due to the large thermal mass of the kegs.

    Refrigerant noise is often more noticeable in a new kegerator, as it can take time for the coolant to settle.

    To avoid excessive refrigerant noise, it is vital to leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least 24 hours after transit.

    In addition, if tipping the kegerator over (to install castors, for example) the kegerator must be tipped towards the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues.

    Leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least one hour before switching on after installing castors or tipping the kegerator for any other reason.

    If the fan is making excessive noise refer to General Troubleshooting

    Internal Line DIameter
    Suggested Beer Line Length

    4mm

    1.5 metres – 2 metres

    5mm

    2 metres – 3 metres

    6.35mm

    3 metres – 4 metres

    If your beer is foaming after checking CO2 pressure, beer line length and kegerator temperature, then possibly the beer is over-carbonated. If this is the gas, then the carbonation level of the beer in the keg will need to be reduced in order to get a good pour.

    19L Cornelius Kegs have a PRV (Pressure Relief Valve) which makes releasing excess pressure quite easy. TO fix an over-carbonated 19L keg (or any homebrew keg with a PRV such as a 20L OXEBAR keg) follow these steps:

    1. Disconnect the gas line to the keg

    2. Pull the PRV to vent all headspace pressure

    3. Wait a couple of hours and then repeat. DO not reconnect the gas line until the desired carbonation level has dropped

    This process can be sped up if the keg is removed from the kegerator and allowed to come to room temperature - CO2 will come out of solution faster at room temperatures. You can also vent the PRV, then close the PRV and shake the keg for 30 seconds, then vent it again. This will help force CO2 out of solution. Please note that this can cause beer or foam to spray from the PRV when venting, so proceed with caution.

    Commercial kegs such as 20L, 30L or 50L kegs which are connected to the beer and gas lines by a coupler do not have a PRV, so it is a bit trickier to vent excess carbonation.

    If the beer is only slightly over carbonated, the easiest way to reduce carbonation is to turn off the CO2 cylinder valve and pour beer as normal. CO2 will come out of solution as the headspace pressure is purged. This will take a while however, depending on the level of over-carbonation.

    To speed this up, remove the keg from the kegerator to allow it to come to room temperature. CO2 will come out of solution faster when the beer is warm.

    This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

    KegLand Carbonation Chart

    Pouring too quickly

    Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    CO2 pressure may be too high. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info

    Beer is not pouring or not pouring well

    Gas Issues & Gas Leaks

    Kegerator cooling issues

    General Troubleshooting

    Kegerator Noise

    Beer Line Length Guide

    How To Fix An Over Carbonated Keg

    19L Corny Keg

    Commercial Keg

    Carbonation Chart

    Introducing the Hop Bong
    Using a FOBS to automate purging kegs
    Using a FOBS to automate purging kegs

    Not calibrated properly. If the kegerator is not cooling adequately but the compressor is cycling at the Set Point temperature the kegerator may require .

    Hot environment. If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system

    Kegerator is too cold

    Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

    Set Point temperature may be incorrect. . For best results set this to 2°C. Setting too low a temperature may cause freezing or performance issues

    Black substance under cold plate

    This is excess insulation. This is not uncommon in new kegerators after use. Excess foam insulation may drip from behind the cold plate. This is normal and nothing to worry about - simply clean with a damp microfibre cloth.

    Loose wiring. It is possible for the lead to the fan to become slightly loose and contact the blades causing noise. Remove the fan housing and reposition the wire to prevent it from contacting the blades

    No castor wheel screws

    These are pre-installed. The castor wheel screws are installed in the underneath of the kegerator and simply need to be unscrewed with a 5/16" socket or wrench, or Philips driver

    Ice build up on cold plate

    Moisture or humidity ingress. If the door is left open or the seals are damaged or dirty then ice can build up on the cold plate. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    EE Error

    This is an electrical fault. This can be caused by a faulty Temperature Probe (Thermistor) or a loose connection or damaged or faulty connection. Try replacing the Temperature Probe. Inspect the board for loose or damaged connections

    Front display flashing

    Board Failure. This can indicate a failure of the front or the . Both boards are designed for easy replacement

    No power to kegerator

    The circuit may have tripped. Check that the beaker has not tripped. If it has, remove all other appliances form the circuit, reset the breaker and try again

    Board failure. This can indicate a failure of the front or the . Both boards are designed for easy replacement

    Water is leaking from kegerator

    Melted ice build up. If there is too much water, moisture or humidity ingress in the kegerator, the ice build up can overwhelm the evaporator plate at the rear of the kegerator. Defrost the kegerator (if necessary) by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    this guide
    Carbonation Chart
    this chart
    this guide
    this chart
    Carbonation Chart
    this chart
    Increase the Set Point of the kegerator
    calibration
    adjust the Set Point
    Offset Calibration
    Isolation Test
    To adjust the Set Point temperature

    Not calibrated properly. If the kegerator is not cooling adequately but the compressor is cycling at the Set Point temperature the kegerator may require .

    Hot environment. If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system

    Kegerator is too cold

    Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

    Set Point temperature may be incorrect. . For best results set this to 2°C. Setting too low a temperature may cause freezing or performance issues

    Black substance under cold plate

    This is excess insulation. This is not uncommon in new kegerators after use. Excess foam insulation may drip from behind the cold plate. This is normal and nothing to worry about - simply clean with a damp microfibre cloth.

    Loose wiring. It is possible for the lead to the fan to become slightly loose and contact the blades causing noise. Remove the fan housing and reposition the wire to prevent it from contacting the blades

    No castor wheel screws

    These are pre-installed. The castor wheel screws are installed in the underneath of the kegerator and simply need to be unscrewed with a 5/16" socket or wrench, or Philips driver

    Ice build up on cold plate

    Moisture or humidity ingress. If the door is left open or the seals are damaged or dirty then ice can build up on the cold plate. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    EE Error

    This is an electrical fault. This can be caused by a faulty Temperature Probe (Thermistor) or a loose connection or damaged or faulty connection. Try replacing the Temperature Probe. Inspect the board for loose or damaged connections

    Front display flashing

    Board Failure. This can indicate a failure of the front or the . Both boards are designed for easy replacement

    No power to kegerator

    The circuit may have tripped. Check that the beaker has not tripped. If it has, remove all other appliances form the circuit, reset the breaker and try again

    Board failure. This can indicate a failure of the front or the . Both boards are designed for easy replacement

    Water is leaking from kegerator

    Melted ice build up. If there is too much water, moisture or humidity ingress in the kegerator, the ice build up can overwhelm the evaporator plate at the rear of the kegerator. Defrost the kegerator (if necessary) by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Carbonation Chart
    this guide
    Carbonation Chart
    this chart
    this guide
    this chart
    Carbonation Chart
    this chart
    Increase the Set Point of the kegerator
    calibration
    adjust the Set Point
    Offset Calibration
    Isolation Test
    To adjust the Set Point temperature

    Not calibrated properly. If the kegerator is not cooling adequately but the compressor is cycling at the Set Point temperature the kegerator may require .

    Hot environment. If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system

    Kegerator is too cold

    Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

    Set Point temperature may be incorrect. . For best results set this to 2°C. Setting too low a temperature may cause freezing or performance issues

    Black substance under cold plate

    This is excess insulation. This is not uncommon in new kegerators after use. Excess foam insulation may drip from behind the cold plate. This is normal and nothing to worry about - simply clean with a damp microfibre cloth.

    Loose wiring. It is possible for the lead to the fan to become slightly loose and contact the blades causing noise. Remove the fan housing and reposition the wire to prevent it from contacting the blades

    No castor wheel screws

    These are pre-installed. The castor wheel screws are installed in the underneath of the kegerator and simply need to be unscrewed with a 5/16" socket or wrench, or Philips driver

    Ice build up on cold plate

    Moisture or humidity ingress. If the door is left open or the seals are damaged or dirty then ice can build up on the cold plate. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    EE Error

    This is an electrical fault. This can be caused by a faulty Temperature Probe (Thermistor) or a loose connection or damaged or faulty connection. Try replacing the Temperature Probe. Inspect the board for loose or damaged connections

    Front display flashing

    Board Failure. This can indicate a failure of the front or the . Both boards are designed for easy replacement

    No power to kegerator

    The circuit may have tripped. Check that the beaker has not tripped. If it has, remove all other appliances form the circuit, reset the breaker and try again

    Board failure. This can indicate a failure of the front or the . Both boards are designed for easy replacement

    Water is leaking from kegerator

    Melted ice build up. If there is too much water, moisture or humidity ingress in the kegerator, the ice build up can overwhelm the evaporator plate at the rear of the kegerator. Defrost the kegerator (if necessary) by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    this guide
    Carbonation Chart
    this chart
    this guide
    this chart
    Carbonation Chart
    this chart
    Increase the Set Point of the kegerator
    calibration
    adjust the Set Point
    Offset Calibration
    Isolation Test
    To adjust the Set Point temperature
    Calibration
    Offset Calibration
    Check the Set Point temperature
    LCD Temperature Control board
    Main Circuit Board
    LCD Temperature Control board
    Main Circuit Board
    Calibration
    Offset Calibration
    Check the Set Point temperature
    LCD Temperature Control board
    Main Circuit Board
    LCD Temperature Control board
    Main Circuit Board
    Calibration
    Offset Calibration
    Check the Set Point temperature
    LCD Temperature Control board
    Main Circuit Board
    LCD Temperature Control board
    Main Circuit Board
    Using a Flow Stopper to fill kegs
    Using a Flow Stopper to fill kegs
    Integrating the UnderCover Kegerator into a kitchen cabinet