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Product Documentation

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Regulators & Gas Tanks

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Kegging Equipment

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Fermentation Equipment

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Product Documentation

KegLand Product Documentation | User Manuals | Guides

This is the new home for KegLand Product Documentation

Super Slim Font Kits

Series X Plus User Guide | Super Slim Font Kits

Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator | User Guide

KL15868 Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator | User Guide

The All-New Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator brought to you by KegLand is the most versatile mini regulator on the market. After much feedback on how to make mini regulators more compact, sturdy and efficient, the brilliant engineers at KegLand have come up with this mini-beast. This extremely versatile mini regulator can be used with either an Australian Sodastream Canister, the KegLand Sodastream Compatible Cylindersarrow-up-right or the smaller disposable CO2 16g bulbs.arrow-up-right If you would like to use the larger 74g disposable bulbsarrow-up-right you can purchase the 74g bulb adaptorarrow-up-right.

The Mini 360 also doubles as the perfect regulator for a Nitro setup! Just add the Mini 360 Nitrogen Adapterarrow-up-right and one of our 2.2L Disposable N2 cylindersarrow-up-right, slap a Stout Spoutarrow-up-right on your SS Nukataparrow-up-right and you are good to go!

Unlike other regulator designs this new design requires no sodastream adaptor and you do not have the issues of trying to screw the bulb or sodastream cylinder into the regulator while gas leaks everywhere. This robust, convenient and superior design is just what you need for any portable keg system.

Installation Diagrams

Series X User Guide | Installation Diagrams

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Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams

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Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams (Ball Lock Posts & Disconnects)

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Single Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

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Double Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

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Triple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

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Quadruple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

Keg Types

Series X User Guide | Different Keg Types

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Different Keg Types

When setting up a kegerator system at home, it is important to understand the differences between the two main types of keg on the market.

The different kegs require different gas and beer line fittings inside the kegerator. Other components of the kegerator (taps, font etc) are interchangeable. The way in which the beer line and gas line is attached to the keg is the main point of difference.

We divide kegerators into two types: setups and setups. Kegs in both types are available in multiple sizes.

Series X | User Guide

KL15080 Series X User Guide | User Manual

Designed to be the most cost effective, efficient and reliable kegerator on the market. Rated to Climate Class T so it can handle Australian weather. Compact, but can easily hold 1 x 50L commercial keg or up to 4 x 19L corny kegs!

Compared to the KegLand Series 4, the Series X is:

  • 10% more power efficient

  • 15% faster cooling and better cooling in hotter climates

Keg Types

Series X Plus User Guide | Different Keg Types

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Different Keg Types

When setting up a kegerator system at home, it is important to understand the differences between the two main types of keg on the market.

The different kegs require different gas and beer line fittings inside the kegerator. Other components of the kegerator (taps, font etc) are interchangeable. The way in which the beer line and gas line is attached to the keg is the main point of difference.

We divide kegerators into two types: setups and setups. Kegs in both types are available in multiple sizes.

Series X Plus | User Guide

KL19880 Series X Plus User Guide | User Manual

The Series X Plus is the best and most cost effective solution to dispense up to 2 x 50L kegs at one time!

Designed to be the most cost effective, efficient and reliable kegerator on the market. Rated to Climate Class T so it can handle Australian weather. Compact, but can easily hold 2 x 50L commercial keg or up to 8 x 19L corny kegs!

Compared to the KegLand Series 4, the Series X range is:

  • 10% more power efficient

Modular Fonts

Series X Plus User Guide | Modular Font Kits

Single, Double and Triple Font Kits

Series 4 User Guide | Single, Double & Triple Font Kit Assembly

It is possible to mix and match keg styles in the one kegerator, provided the kegs are small enough to fit. Simply use the correct connection (coupler or ball lock disconnects) on ach beer and gas line to allow this.

For example, you may wish to have a TALOS keg of craft beerarrow-up-right on tap, as well as on demand soda waterarrow-up-right in a 19L keg. In that case, one beer/gas line would be terminated with an A Type Coupler, and the other would have a gas and a liquid ball lock disconnect.

Choose the type of connector used to see how to set each gas line up

Commercial (Brewery Made) Kegeratorarrow-up-right
Homebrew Kegeratorarrow-up-right

40% Thicker Side Walls for reduced heat ingress

  • 15% More Energy Efficient

  • 30% Larger Evaporator

  • 25% Larger Condenser

  • 15% Faster Cooling

  • Larger Font Fan

  • Larger, improved compressor

  • Internal LED light (Series X.1 and later)

  • 2x KL10788 Carbonation Caparrow-up-right gas bulkhead threads as standard

  • FITS 4 UP TO 4 CORNY KEGS

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    Specifications

    • Climate Class: T (Tropical)

    • Refrigerant: R600a

    • Rated Current: 0.80A

    • Power: 85 Watts

    • Capacity: 187L

    • Voltage: 220-240V

    • Hz: 50Hz

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    Dimensions

    • 600mm wide

    • 640mm deep

    • 840mm high

    • 890mm high with castors (fridge component only, not including font, guard rail or drip tray

    Dimensioned drawings available herearrow-up-right

    It is possible to mix and match keg styles in the one kegerator, provided the kegs are small enough to fit. Simply use the correct connection (coupler or ball lock disconnects) on ach beer and gas line to allow this.

    For example, you may wish to have a TALOS keg of craft beerarrow-up-right on tap, as well as on demand soda waterarrow-up-right in a 19L keg. In that case, one beer/gas line would be terminated with an A Type Coupler, and the other would have a gas and a liquid ball lock disconnect.

    Choose the type of connector used to see how to set each gas line up

    Commercial (Brewery Made) Kegeratorarrow-up-right
    Homebrew Kegeratorarrow-up-right
    15% faster cooling and better cooling in hotter climates
  • 40% Thicker Side Walls for reduced heat ingress

  • 15% More Energy Efficient

  • 30% Larger Evaporator

  • 25% Larger Condenser

  • 15% Faster Cooling

  • Larger Font Fan

  • Larger, improved compressor

  • 2x KL10788 Carbonation Caparrow-up-right gas bulkhead fittings as standard

  • FITS UP TO 8 CORNY KEGS or 2 x 50L COMMERCIAL KEGS

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    Specifications

    • Climate Class: T (Tropical)

    • Refrigerant: R600a

    • Rated Current: 0.90A

    • Power: 100 Watts

    • Capacity: 310L

    • Voltage: 220-240V

    • Hz: 50Hz

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    Dimensions

    • 900mm wide

    • 708mm deep

    • 840mm high

    • 890mm high with castors (fridge component only, not including font, guard rail or drip tray

    Dimensioned drawings available herearrow-up-right

    Quad Font Kits

    Series X User Guide | Quad Font Kit Assembly

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    Quadruple Tap Font Kits

    1. Remove the cap from the top of the font and attach the font to the top of the kegerator using four metric M5 stainless steel screws. The mounting points can be found on the inside of the font and can be attached using a long screwdriver, bit extender or flexible drill bit

    2. Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to

    3. Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    4. Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font

    5. Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

    6. Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.

    7. Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

    8. Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

    9. Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a or

    10. Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

    11. Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

    12. NOTE: It is easiest to attach the shanks in the order below:

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    EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Quad Font Kit)

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    Quad Font

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    Quick Start Guide

    Series X User Guide | Quick Start Guide

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    IMPORTANT SETUP INFORMATION

    If kegerator has been moved/delivered do not turn it on unless it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours. Failure to do this will void warranty and may damage the kegerator. Leave the kegerator upright for at least 24 hours before plugging in mains power after receiving and unboxing

    Only tip kegerator onto right hand side (as seen from the front), when installing castors etc. Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues

    CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space

    Never exceed 40psi in your keg system

    Always flush chemicals from the beer line completely before tapping keg

    Always check for gas leaks once the kegerator is set up

    Ensure there is at least 100mm clearance on each side of the kegerator after installation. Failure to allow adequate clearance will impact cooling performance and void warranty

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    Inclusions

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    IMPORTANT

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    Setup

    Please refer to this video for a detailed guide to setting up a kegerator.

    For detailed, step by step instructions, read on!

    Maintenance

    KL15868 Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator | Maintenance

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    Pressure Creep | Seat and Seat Cap Assembly Replacement

    All regulators contain parts that are susceptible to ingress of contamination. Although the Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator is made from high quality components and assembled in a clean environment it’s possible that throughout its life that some contamination can get into the regulator (normally through the inlet side).

    For example, if a keg is completely full and at a higher pressure than the regulator is set to, then beer can enter the regulator through the outlet when the keg is connected. Always pulling the PRV of the keg to release headspace pressure will help prevent this from happening and is best practice whenever a CO2 Cylinder and regulator is connected to a keg.

    If this contamination is able to get past the integrated sintered filter you may get “pressure creep”. Pressure creep is when contamination or something else has got into the seat and seat cap assembly and the flow of gas doesn’t stop even when the set pressure is reached.

    This will often be noticed if the needle on the pressure gauge continues to rise until the pressure relief valve opens and pressure is released. If this happens repeatedly then it’s likely you will need to perform this maintenance process.

    NOTE: The seat and seat cap assembly is the same part used inside the KegLand MK4 Regulator and is interchangeable. The required part is KL15646

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    Replacing the Seat and Seat Cap Assembly

    1. With a small screw driver remove the two grub screws on both sides of the regulator knob

    1. Once these grub screws have been removed the regulator black knob can be completely undone and removed as shown below

    1. Using a set of needle nose pliers remove the piston diaphragm

    1. With a 16mm or 5/8” socket set remove the seat and seat cap assembly. Please ensure the black o-ring comes out with this assembly. If the o-ring doesn’t come out at the same time you may have to remove the o-ring separately with a pointy object or pick tool.

    Replace the brass seat and seat cap assembly with a new one. Ensure that you adequately tighten this seat cap assembly and then re-assemble the regulator in the reverse order.

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    Replacing Thumb Screw O-Ring

    If for some reason you get gas leaking from the base of the thumb screw it’s possible that you have blown the o-ring on the thumb screw shaft. To replace this o-ring follow the steps below

    1. Follow the steps 1-4 above for

    2. Once the seat and seat cap has been removed in step 4 the thumb screw can be completely removed. Simply unscrew in the anti-clockwise direction

    1. Inspect the o-ring in the image above and replace if necessary

    2. Re-assemble the regulator in the same sequence as you took the components apart.

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    Lubricating Thumb Screw

    It is highly recommended to lubricate the thumbscrew before use and at regular intervals to maintain performance. This will assist with ease of operation and is important as a maintenance step if the Mini 360 Regulator is used in adverse environments (such as inside a kegerator or fridge)

    Food grade lube such as is ideal.

    1. Disconnect the regulator from the pressure source

    2. Turn the thumb screw all the way anti-clockwise so it’s out as far as it will go

    3. Apply food grade lubricant to the thread or shaft of the thumb screw as shown below. Rotate the thumb screw in both directions to spread the lubricant over the thumb screw components

    NOTE: It is completely normal for the thumb screw to be tight when under pressure

    When the regulator has a cylinder attached and is under pressure the thumb screw will be more difficult to turn but with moderate force it still will move. When the pressure is released it will become easier to turn.

    Font Kit Assembly

    Series X User Guide | Font Kit Assembly

    KegLand Kegerators can be configured with different font and tap options.

    Depending on the kegerator, you can have from 1 - 8 taps, or possibly more with the Grand Deluxe range.

    Fonts and taps can also have different configurations - you may chose standard stainless NukaTapsarrow-up-right, the black Stealth Bomber NukaTapsarrow-up-right or possibly you need Flow Control NukaTapsarrow-up-right (if serving highly carbonated beverages, for example)

    Fonts can be a standard tower configuration, a tee bar or a super slim tee bar type.

    All KegLand Font Kits (as opposed to Font Only) include beer and gas line, shanks and duotight connectors (where necessary), standard black tap handles for NukaTaps and all required beer and gas line, as well as tee pieces to split the gas line as needed. A 7 in 1 tool for easy font and shank assembly is also required. The exact inclusions depend on the type of font and number of taps - please refer to the product page for the font kit for details.

    Please refer to the guide below for the selected font kit assembly

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    Compatible font options include:

    (only suitable for Series X Plus)

    (only suitable for Series X Plus)

    Guide to Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects

    Series X Plus User Guide | Cornelius Kegs

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    Cornelius (Homebrew) Kegs

    There are two different styles of Cornelius kegs: Ball Lock and Pin Lock. Pin Lock kegs are not really in common use now. Any Cornelius style kegs purchased from KegLand will have Ball Lock fittings.

    Ball Lock fittings can be identified by the posts on the keg or tapping head and require the use of Ball Lock Disconnects:

    Ball Lock fittings | Cornelius Kegs

    There are several types of Ball Lock keg available, including standard stainless and Cornelius Kegs, and also OXEBAR kegs in . If using Mini Kegs or 4L or 8L OXEBAR Kegs you will also need a ball lock tapping head.

    To carbonate and dispense from a homebrew style keg you will need to use disconnects. These come in two different categories which are specific for ball-lock or pin-lock kegs. Balllock kegs require ball-lock disconnects and pin-lock kegs require pin-lock disconnects

    Each keg requires a and a . Due to the design of the posts on the keg a liquid disconnect can only be used on the black liquid (OUT) post and a gas disconnect can only be used on the grey gas (IN) post.

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    Inserting EVABarrier hose into duotight fittings

    Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689

    If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.

    Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.

    Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.

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    Removing EVABarrier Hose from duotight fittings

    To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.

    While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.

    Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.

    Tee Bar Font Kits

    Series X Plus User Guide | Tee Bar Font Kits

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    Tee Bar Fonts

    1. Remove the caps from the end of the fonts and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks

    2. NOTE: Install shanks from the middle of the font outwards

    3. Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to

    4. Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    5. Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font. Angling the shank off to the side slightly is generally easiest

    6. Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

    7. Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.

    8. Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

    9. Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

    10. Using the included M5 x 30mm bolts, mount the font onto the kegerator after feeding the lines through into the kegerator

    11. Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a or

    12. Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

    13. Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

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    EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Four Tap Tee Bar Font Kits)

    1. Double check that the EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    Font Kit Assembly

    Series X Plus User Guide | Font KIt Assembly

    KegLand Kegerators can be configured with different font and tap options.

    Depending on the kegerator, you can have from 1 - 8 taps, or possibly more with the Grand Deluxe range.

    Fonts and taps can also have different configurations - you may chose standard stainless NukaTapsarrow-up-right, the black Stealth Bomber NukaTapsarrow-up-right or possibly you need Flow Control NukaTapsarrow-up-right (if serving highly carbonated beverages, for example)

    Fonts can be a standard tower configuration, a tee bar or a super slim tee bar type.

    All KegLand Font Kits (as opposed to Font Only) include beer and gas line, shanks and duotight connectors (where necessary), standard black tap handles for NukaTaps and all required beer and gas line, as well as tee pieces to split the gas line as needed. A 7 in 1 tool for easy font and shank assembly is also required. The exact inclusions depend on the type of font and number of taps - please refer to the product page for the font kit for details.

    Please refer to the guide below for the selected font kit assembly

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    Compatible font options include:

    (only suitable for Series X Plus)

    (only suitable for Series X Plus)

    Quad Font Kits

    Series X Plus User Guide | Quad Font Kits

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    Quadruple Tap Font Kits

    1. Remove the cap from the top of the font and attach the font to the top of the kegerator using four metric M5 stainless steel screws. The mounting points can be found on the inside of the font and can be attached using a long screwdriver, bit extender or flexible drill bit

    2. Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to

    3. Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    4. Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font

    5. Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

    6. Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.

    7. Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

    8. Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

    9. Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a or

    10. Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

    11. Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

    12. NOTE: It is easiest to attach the shanks in the order below:

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    EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Quad Font Kit)

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    Quad Font

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    Guide to Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects

    Series X User Guide | Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects

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    Cornelius (Homebrew) Kegs

    There are two different styles of Cornelius kegs: Ball Lock and Pin Lock. Pin Lock kegs are not really in common use now. Any Cornelius style kegs purchased from KegLand will have Ball Lock fittings.

    Ball Lock fittings can be identified by the posts on the keg or tapping head and require the use of Ball Lock Disconnects:

    Ball Lock fittings | Cornelius Kegs

    There are several types of Ball Lock keg available, including standard stainless and Cornelius Kegs, and also OXEBAR kegs in . If using Mini Kegs or 4L or 8L OXEBAR Kegs you will also need a ball lock tapping head.

    To carbonate and dispense from a homebrew style keg you will need to use disconnects. These come in two different categories which are specific for ball-lock or pin-lock kegs. Balllock kegs require ball-lock disconnects and pin-lock kegs require pin-lock disconnects

    Each keg requires a and a . Due to the design of the posts on the keg a liquid disconnect can only be used on the black liquid (OUT) post and a gas disconnect can only be used on the grey gas (IN) post.

    hashtag
    Inserting EVABarrier hose into duotight fittings

    Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689

    If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.

    Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.

    Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.

    hashtag
    Removing EVABarrier Hose from duotight fittings

    To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.

    While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.

    Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.

    Tee Bar Font Kits

    Series X User Guide | Tee Bar Font Kits

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    Tee Bar Fonts

    1. Remove the caps from the end of the fonts and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks

    2. NOTE: Install shanks from the middle of the font outwards

    3. Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to

    4. Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    5. Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font. Angling the shank off to the side slightly is generally easiest

    6. Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

    7. Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.

    8. Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

    9. Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

    10. Using the included M5 x 30mm bolts, mount the font onto the kegerator after feeding the lines through into the kegerator

    11. Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a or

    12. Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

    13. Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

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    EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Four Tap Tee Bar Font Kits)

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    Leak & Pressure Testing

    Series X User Guide | Leak & Pressure Testing

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    Important

    Performing a CO2 leak test is important to ensure that your system will hold pressure and that there are no leaks in any connections in the system.

    If there are any leaks this can result in the CO2 cylinder becoming empty in a short period.

    Initial pressure testing can be performed in two different ways. If leaks are detected an can help determine the location of he leak.

    Quick Start Guide

    Series X Plus User Guide | Quick Start Guide

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    IMPORTANT SETUP INFORMATION

    If kegerator has been moved/delivered do not turn it on unless it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours. Failure to do this will void warranty and may damage the kegerator. Leave the kegerator upright for at least 24 hours before plugging in mains power after receiving and unboxing

    Only tip kegerator onto right hand side (as seen from the front), when installing castors etc. Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues

    Installation Diagrams

    Series X Plus User Guide | Installation Diagrams

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    Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams

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    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | User Guide

    KL41652 KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Quick Start Guide

    The KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator is designed to be installed snugly into a standard 600mm kitchen cavity.

    Unlike most other kegerator models, this is custom designed to not require any space around it for ventilation, so can be installed completely flush into your cavity, for a smooth, entirly modern look!

    This particular Kegerator uses a multitude of fans to suck and blow air to the front of the Kegerator allowing it to squeeze into the tightest of spaces.

    To purchase a complete kegerator setup, custom configured with anywhere from 1 to 4 taps please use the Configurable Builder

    Installation Diagrams

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Installation Diagrams

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    Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams

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    Grand Deluxe 3 | User Guide

    KL08877 | KL08891 | KL32605 | KL32612 | Grand Deluxe 3 | Quick Start Guide

    The Grand Deluxe 3 models are made and built tough for a commercial environment for your use in the man cave or small bar/cafe.

    The two door Grand Deluxe 3 model can hold:

    12 x 19L Cornelius Ball Lock Kegs OR 3 x 50L DIN type Kegs

    or a mix and match of both to your liking. The three door Grand Deluxe 3 model can hold:

    20 x 19L Cornelius Ball Lock Kegs OR 5 x 50L DIN type Kegs

    or a mix and match of both to your liking.

    The Grand Deluxe 3 range of commercial kegerators are Climate Class 4 rated, with 304 Stainless Steel Countertops with thick core foam to aid in temperature loss from your refrigerator. They have double glazed tempered safety glass with self-closing lockable doors as standard, and inbuilt countersunk stainless drip tray system with drainage tubes fitted.

    Installation Diagrams

    Grand Deluxe 3 | Installation Diagrams

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    Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams

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    MK4 - Replacement Regulator Diaphragm and Seat Assemblyarrow-up-right
    Replacing Seat and Seat Cap Assembly
    Mini Haynes Food Grade Lube 28garrow-up-right
    Single Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Double Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Triple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Quadruple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Single Tap Black Phantom Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Double Tap Black Phantom Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Triple Tap Black Phantom Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Quadruple Tap Black Phantom Font Kitarrow-up-right
    4 Tap T-Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    6 Tap TT Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    8 Tap TT Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Cover

    Single, Double & Triple Tower Style Font Kits

    Cover

    Quad Font Tower Style Kits

    Cover

    Tee Bar Font Kits

    Single Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Double Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Triple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Quadruple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Single Tap Black Phantom Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Double Tap Black Phantom Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Triple Tap Black Phantom Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Quadruple Tap Black Phantom Font Kitarrow-up-right
    4 Tap T-Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    6 Tap TT Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    8 Tap TT Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Cover

    Single, Double & Triple Tower Style Font Kits

    Cover

    Quad Font Tower Style Kits

    Cover

    Tee Bar Font Kits

    Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator Homebrew Bar Kitarrow-up-right
    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator

    Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Homebrew Kegs & Disconnects

    Cover
    Cover

    Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Homebrew Kegs & Disconnects

    Cover
    Cover
    19L arrow-up-right
    9.5Larrow-up-right
    stainless Mini Kegsarrow-up-right
    20L, 8L and 4L sizesarrow-up-right
    liquid disconnect (black)arrow-up-right
    gas disconnect (grey)arrow-up-right
    Tube Cutterarrow-up-right
    Using a 7 in 1 tool to remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting
    19L arrow-up-right
    9.5Larrow-up-right
    stainless Mini Kegsarrow-up-right
    20L, 8L and 4L sizesarrow-up-right
    liquid disconnect (black)arrow-up-right
    gas disconnect (grey)arrow-up-right
    Tube Cutterarrow-up-right
    Using a 7 in 1 tool to remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting
    Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces

    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees

  • Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
    liquid ball lock disconnect
    keg coupler
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    Attach duotight reducer to short shank
    Tightening Short Shank with 7 in 1 tool
    Correct shank order | Quad Font
    (designed to suit 2.6kg gas cylinder)
  • MK4 KegLand Regulatorarrow-up-right
    MK5 CO2 Regulator - Tool-Freearrow-up-right
    Black Plastic Wrap Around Drip Trayarrow-up-right
    Set of 4 Castor Wheels + boltsarrow-up-right
    CO2 Cylinder Holderarrow-up-right
    Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces

    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees

  • Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
    liquid ball lock disconnect
    keg coupler
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    Attach duotight reducer to short shank
    Tightening Short Shank with 7 in 1 tool
    Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces

    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees

  • Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
    liquid ball lock disconnect
    keg coupler
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    Attach duotight reducer to short shank
    Tightening Short Shank with 7 in 1 tool
    Correct shank order | Quad Font
    Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces

    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees

  • Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
    liquid ball lock disconnect
    keg coupler
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    Attach duotight reducer to short shank
    Tightening Short Shank with 7 in 1 tool
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    Method 1 - Pressure Decay Test
    1

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    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

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    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

    3

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    Turn CO2 cylinder valve off

    Once pressurised, turn the valve handle on the CO2 cylinder clockwise until the valve is turned off

    4

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    Check Pressure

    Wait for at least two hours then check the pressure reading on the right hand (low pressure) gauge of the regulator

    If the pressure reading has not changed (so is still reading ~20psi) then there are no leaks in the system

    If the pressure has dropped a noticeable amount then it is very likely there is a leak in the system. Use Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test to locate the leak. Note: Even if this test is passed it is quite a good idea to perform this test in any case

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    Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test

    1

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    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

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    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 40-50psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to ensure the system is properly pressurised. Note: We use a higher pressure in order to make any leaks easier to detect. Ensure there is no beer in the keg as it may become over-carbonated

    3

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    Check For Leaks

    Using a soapy water solution (washing up liquid and water is perfect for this) in a spry bottle or simply dabbed on, check for leaks at all connections. The soapy water spray will slowly bubble if there are any leaks.

    Connections to check include:

    • The connection between the CO2 cylinder and the regulator • All duotight connections including the 8mm x FFL duotight connected to the regulator, ball lock disconnects and keg coupler, the 6.5mm x 8mm duotight reducers connected to the short shanks and the 8mm duotight tee pieces • Around ball lock disconnects and keg couplers when they are connected to the keg • Around the lid of a Cornelius keg • Make sure to remove the ball lock disconnects from the posts of the ball lock keg and check the post itself for leaks

    4

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    Perform a Pressure Decay Test

    Once any leaks have been located and fixed, perform another Pressure Decay Test to ensure that the system holds pressure

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    Isolation Test

    If any CO2 leaks are detected, if can be helpful to perform an Isolation Test to determine where the leak is in the system

    1

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    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

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    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

    3

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    Isolate System

    Once the system is pressurised, isolate each part of the system.

    1. Turn valve of CO2 cylinder fully off.

    4

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    Test System

    After at least 12 hours, if there is a leak in the system we can determine roughly where the leak is after isolating

    1. If the weight of the CO2 cylinder has gone down noticeably, the cylinder possibly has a leak

    Isolation Test
    CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space

    Never exceed 40psi in your keg system

    Always flush chemicals from the beer line completely before tapping keg

    Always check for gas leaks once the kegerator is set up

    Ensure there is at least 100mm clearance on each side of the kegerator after installation. Failure to allow adequate clearance will impact cooling performance and void warranty

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    Inclusions

    NOTE: The Series X Plus does not include a wire shelf. The Kegerator Modular Wire Shelf Set (3 Pieces)arrow-up-right are suitable if you wish to add a shelf

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    IMPORTANT

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    Setup

    Please refer to this video for a detailed guide to setting up a kegerator.

    The following video is for a standard Series X setup, but includes useful information regarding duotight disconnect fittings and other products

    For detailed, step by step instructions, read on!

    Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams (Ball Lock Posts & Disconnects)

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    Single Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

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    Double Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

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    Triple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

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    Quadruple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

    Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams (Ball Lock Posts & Disconnects)

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    Single Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

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    Double Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

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    Triple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

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    Quadruple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

    Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams (Ball Lock Posts & Disconnects)

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    Single Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

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    Double Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

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    Triple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

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    Quadruple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

    Preparation & Setup

    Series X User Guide | Preparation & Setup

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    Installation & Setup

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    Preparation

    Remove and check all items from inside the kegerator

    Remove any protective film and tape from the kegerator

    Inspect kegerator for any damage that may have incurred in transit including liquid or oil marks inside packaging. If any damage is noted contact your retailer

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    Castor Wheels Installation

    Make sure the kegerator is empty

    Carefully lay the kegerator on its side on a soft surface such as carpet, cardboard or a towel. NOTE: Ensure the kegerator is tipped onto the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues

    Unscrew the feet from the base of the kegerator

    Remove the screws in the base of the kegerator in each corner. These are pre-installed screws that are used to mount the castor wheels. NOTE: These can be quite tight from the factory. A 5/16" socket or wrench will allow more leverage than a Philips driver if required

    The two locking castor wheels should be installed towards the front of the kegerator

    Position the kegerator back upright and leave for a minimum 1 hour before turning it on to allow the refrigerant gas to settle. If installing the castors shortly after receiving the kegerator, leave the kegerator upright for a minimum of 24 hours before turning it on

    NOTE: The screw holes may be filled with foam and have a foil covering. If this is the case push and thread the screws through the foam or foil. The screw will then catch on the thread allowing it to be screwed in completely

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    Chrome Plated Guard Rail Installation

    Position the guard rail so the feet line up with the holes in the top of the kegerator

    Push the feet of the railing firmly into the holes

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    CO2 Cylinder Bracket Installation (optional)

    Align the four holes in the bracket with the four studs on the back of the kegerator

    Insert the studs into the holes and then push the bracket down firmly to secure it

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    Installing Regulator onto the CO2 Cylinder

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    Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench

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    Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder using the knurled grip. MK5 Regulators can be hand tightened due to the new spigot seal design that easily compresses

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    Attach 8mm EVABarrier gas line to the Regulator

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    KL07429 MK4 Regulator

    The MK4 regulator comes as standard with a

    Thread the KL06880 duotight fitting onto the regulator by hand, then tighten gently with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench. NOTE: DO not over tighten as this may cause the duotight fitting to split

    Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut

    Push the line firmly into the KL06880 duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)

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    KL30670 MK5 Regulator

    The MK5 regulator comes as standard with an 8mm duotight ball valve and integrated check valve

    Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut

    Push the line firmly into the duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted fully (approx.22mm)

    Ensure the ball valve is opened before using the MK5 Regulator

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    Feed the 8mm EVABarrier gas line into the Kegerator

    Unscrew one of the caps on the back of the Series X and feed the EVABarrier gas line through the hole

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    Convert Gas Line to Quick Disconnect Fitting (optional)

    The gas port threads can be easily converted to allow a gas disconnect connection, which is quite convenient for disconnecting the gas line from the kegerator. This is optional

    You will need 1 x Carbonation Cap, 1 x Gas Disconnect, 1 x 8mm x 6.35mm duotight reducer

    Screw the Carbonation Cap onto the gas inlet thread at the back of the kegerator

    Cut the 8mm EVABarrier gas line to the correct length so that it easily reaches from the regulator to the Carbonation Cap

    Fit the Gas Disconnect onto the end of the gas line, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)

    FIt the 8mm x 6.35mm duotight reducer onto the corresponding barb of the Carbonation Cap inside the kegerator. The gas line(s) inside the kegerator will then attach directly to this duotight fitting

    Connect the Gas Disconnect to the Carbonation Cap to complete the assembly

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    Setup Font, Taps and Beer line(s)

    Please refer to the for a detailed guide on the different types of fonts

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    Connect gas & beer lines to coupler or disconnects

    Please refer to the for assembly instructions for the different types of beer and gas connections

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    Balance Beer Lines and Carbonation levels

    Please refer to the for details on getting the system balanced for a great pour

    Single, Double and Triple Font Kits

    Series X User Guide | Single, Double & Triple Font Kit Assembly

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    Single, Double and Triple Tap Fonts

    1. Remove the cap from the top of the font and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks

    2. Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to

    3. Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    4. Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font

    5. Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

    6. Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.

    7. Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

    8. Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

    9. Using the included M5 x 30mm bolts, mount the font onto the kegerator after feeding the lines through into the kegerator

    10. Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a or

    11. Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

    12. Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

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    EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Single Font Kit only)

    1. Double check that the EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for beer or for

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    EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Double, Triple or Quad Font Kit)

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    Double Font

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 1m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

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    Triple Font

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 1.5m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

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    Quad Font

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

    Series X User Guide | Balancing Beer Lines

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    Beer Line Diameter and Length Correlation

    To ensure you get a consistent pour with the correct amount of head it is important to ensure the length of beer is correlated with the internal diameter of the EVABarrier hose. The suggested length of beer line for each internal diameter is outlined below.

    To get a great pour with good head the length of the beer line needs to be adjusted according to the internal diameter of the line and to the carbonation level of the liquid being dispensed. Broadly speaking, the smaller the internal diameter of the beer line the less line is required to get a good flow. For that reason, the standard line used for beer line in all KegLand Font Kits is KL06224 4mm ID x 8mm OD Double Wall EVABarrierarrow-up-right

    Please refer to this chart for a guide to appropriate beer line length for different diameter line:

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    Beer Line Length Guide

    Internal Line DIameter
    Suggested Beer Line Length

    KegLand Font Kits come with pre-cut lengths of beer and gas line. These are typically sized to allow at least 1.5m per length and thus do not need to be cut down in size.

    If cutting your own lengths of beer line it is best to start at the upper end of the suggested range and cut the beer line down in size until the desired pour speed is achieved. The faster the pour, the more likely you will get too much head/foam in the glass and also a fast pour can 'knock' carbonation out of solution resulting in a beer with too much head but no carbonation!

    Thus, for example, if starting with 4mm ID line start with a 2m length and cut down in 100mm lengths until the desired pour is achieved.

    4mm ID line is often the best choice in a short draw (kegerator) setup as it means less overall length of beer line is required which means the kegerator will be less cluttered. It also reduces the amount of beer sitting in the lines between pours.

    To see how much beer is in the line (approximately) please refer to this table:

    Internal Diameter
    Minimum length of line
    Beer per metre in line (approx)
    Total beer in line (approx)

    The downside of 4mm ID beer line is that it is quite hard to fit over barbs. We highly recommend using duotight fittings instead as they are very easy to use and install. They can also be readily swapped out if required - for example, if you decide to change the number of taps and kegs in your setup. All KegLand kegerator kits come with duotight fittings as standard.

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    Balancing the Kegerator with CO2

    If you are not sure about temperature, carbonation levels and CO2 pressure for serving, setting the kegerator to 2­°C and the regulator to 12psi is appropriate for most situations.

    To produce the perfect pour, a number of variables need to be balanced. These include the beer line length, carbonation level of the beer and storage temperature of the keg.

    The temperature of the beer in the keg correlates directly to the carbonation level. Thus, a beer at 4°C will have less carbonation than a beer at 2°C at the same CO2 pressure.

    For most styles of beer, you should be aiming for a carbonation level of between 2.2-2.8 volumes of carbonation. 2.6 volumes of carbonation can be considered a good average level for most beers. If you are unsure of the carbonation level of the beer IE If it is a commercial keg then assume it is at 2.6 volumes of carbonation.

    To achieve a specific carbonation level refer to this and match the temperature of the kegerator to the desired carbonation level. Typically kegerators would be set to maintain a temperature between 0-3°C. Typically, 2°C is the perfect temperature for most beer styles.

    The pressure at which you dispense the beer should be slightly higher than the carbonation pressure (~10% higher).

    For example, to carbonate to 2.6 volumes at 2°C you would carbonate the beer at approximately 11psi and then serve the beer at approximately 12psi.

    The pressure at which you serve the beer should be determined as above - thus the carbonation level determines the serving level. Do not try to fix a fast or slow pour by adjusting the pressure. Too low a pressure will result in flat beer, and too high a pressure will cause over-carbonation.

    If you think that you have over carbonated your beer you may need to release the Pressure in the keg and then set it to your desired pressure according to the carbonation chart above. Do not release pressure in the keg by pulling the PRV on the regulator as this can result in liquid being pulled into the regulator and potentially causing damage to the regulator.

    If you wish to have beers of different carbonation levels in the kegerator then you can use a KL10870 to have two different serving pressures. Alternatively a KL15035 can be installed on the gas lines which allows individual control of each line.

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    Carbonation Chart

    This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

    Guide to Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Series X User Guide | Comerrcial Kegs & Couplers

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    Commercial (Brewery Made) Style Kegs

    Commercial kegs primarily come in a range of sizes; 20L, 30L and 50L. 50L kegs are the most common size. Commercial kegs come in three main styles: A-type, D-type and S-type. These three types of commercial kegs can be distinguished by the shape of their spear (shown below).

    In Australia A-type and D-type kegs are the most common. You will need to buy the specific keg coupler to fit the keg type, make sure that prior to buying a kegerator you know which type of keg you will be using and which keg coupler is required to dispense from this keg.

    As a general rule, CUB and related breweries use D-Type Couplers, all other breweries use A-Type Couplers. S-Type Couplers are typically only used for fully imported beers.

    The following diagram shows the different ypes of spear available:

    Once you have the correct coupler to suit your keg it will need to be assembled and connected to the beer and gas line.

    On a keg coupler there is an inlet for gas and an outlet for liquid. The gas inlet is positioned on a 45-degree angle and the liquid outlet is positioned vertically. It is important to connect the gas line and beer line to the correct inlet and outlet.

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    Keg Coupler Assembly

    Inside the KegLand coupler box you will find two types of one-way check valves: a gas duck bill valve and a liquid torpedo check piece.

    The duck bill valve is used for the gas inlet and the torpedo check piece or non-return ball is used for the liquid outlet. In a homebrew setting it may only be necessary to use a check valve in the gas inlet to prevent liquid flowing back in to the regulator.

    To install the gas duck bill valve, remove the black EPDM washer from inside the 5/8” duotight fitting on the gas inlet and then insert the gas duck bill valve into the opening (as shown below). Then screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler.

    To install the liquid torpedo check piece, remove the 5/8” duotight fitting keeping the black EPDM washer in place, then insert the ball and cage (in the order shown below) and then finally screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler. NOTE: The closed part of the cage must be at the top to hold the ball in place, otherwise this can block the beer from flowing.

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    How to use Keg Couplers

    Prior to attaching the keg coupler onto the keg make sure that a gas line is connected to the gas inlet and this gas line is connected to a regulator and a beer line is connected to the liquid outlet and this beer line is connected to a tap. Attaching the keg to the keg coupler is usually the last step of the kegerator setup.

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    A-Type Keg Coupler

    Slide the keg coupler over the groove on the top of the keg then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg. NOTE: To fit a 50L keg with an A-type keg coupler into a kegerator or if your keg is a DIN style keg (tall skinny style) you will need to use a KL00390

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    D-Type and S-Type Couplers

    Push the coupler into the opening of the spear and then rotate firmly clockwise to attach the coupler to the spear. Then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg.

    More detailed instructions on how to assemble and operate a keg coupler can be seen in this video:

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    Inserting EVABarrier hose into duotight fittings

    Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689

    If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.

    Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.

    Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.

    NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

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    Removing EVABarrier Hose from duotight fittings

    To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.

    While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.

    Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.

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    Using Ball Lock DIsconnects with Commercial Couplers

    KegLand Commercial Couplers are supplied with duotight fittings that make connecting EVABarrier gas and beer line quite easy.

    However, if you plan on switching couplers or wish to use an alternative connection method that allows a bit more customisation, we recommend replacing the duotight fittings with Ball Lock Posts. When adding Ball Lock Posts to a coupler setup, it is recommended to also add a KL00390 which will make it easier to fit a 50L keg.

    You will also need a KL00840 and a KL00833 which will replace the duotight fittings on the coupler and allow you to use Ball Lock Disconnects on the beer and gas line instead

    Preparation & Setup

    Series X Plus User Guide | Preparation & Setup

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    Installation & Setup

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    Preparation

    Remove and from inside the kegerator

    Remove any protective film and tape from the kegerator

    Inspect kegerator for any damage that may have incurred in transit including liquid or oil marks inside packaging. If any damage is noted contact your retailer

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    Castor Wheels Installation

    Make sure the kegerator is empty

    Carefully lay the kegerator on its side on a soft surface such as carpet, cardboard or a towel. NOTE: Ensure the kegerator is tipped onto the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues

    Unscrew the feet from the base of the kegerator

    Remove the screws in the base of the kegerator in each corner. These are pre-installed screws that are used to mount the castor wheels. NOTE: These can be quite tight from the factory. A 5/16" socket or wrench will allow more leverage than a Philips driver if required

    The two locking castor wheels should be installed towards the front of the kegerator

    Position the kegerator back upright and leave for a minimum 1 hour before turning it on to allow the refrigerant gas to settle. If installing the castors shortly after receiving the kegerator, leave the kegerator upright for a minimum of 24 hours before turning it on

    NOTE: The screw holes may be filled with foam and have a foil covering. If this is the case push and thread the screws through the foam or foil. The screw will then catch on the thread allowing it to be screwed in completely

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    Chrome Plated Guard Rail Installation

    Position the guard rail so the feet line up with the holes in the top of the kegerator

    Push the feet of the railing firmly into the holes

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    CO2 Cylinder Bracket Installation (optional)

    Align the four holes in the bracket with the four studs on the back of the kegerator

    Insert the studs into the holes and then push the bracket down firmly to secure it

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    Installing Regulator onto the CO2 Cylinder

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    Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench

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    Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder using the knurled grip. MK5 Regulators can be hand tightened due to the new spigot seal design that easily compresses

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    Attach 8mm EVABarrier gas line to the Regulator

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    KL07429 MK4 Regulator

    The MK4 regulator comes as standard with a

    Thread the KL06880 duotight fitting onto the regulator by hand, then tighten gently with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench. NOTE: DO not over tighten as this may cause the duotight fitting to split

    Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut

    Push the line firmly into the KL06880 duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)

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    KL30670 MK5 Regulator

    The MK5 regulator comes as standard with an 8mm duotight ball valve and integrated check valve

    Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut

    Push the line firmly into the duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted fully (approx.22mm)

    Ensure the ball valve is opened before using the MK5 Regulator

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    Feed the 8mm EVABarrier gas line into the Kegerator

    Unscrew one of the caps on the back of the Series X and feed the EVABarrier gas line through the hole

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    Convert Gas Line to Quick Disconnect Fitting (optional)

    The gas port threads can be easily converted to allow a gas disconnect connection, which is quite convenient for disconnecting the gas line from the kegerator. This is optional

    You will need 1 x Carbonation Cap, 1 x Gas Disconnect, 1 x 8mm x 6.35mm duotight reducer

    Screw the Carbonation Cap onto the gas inlet thread at the back of the kegerator

    Cut the 8mm EVABarrier gas line to the correct length so that it easily reaches from the regulator to the Carbonation Cap

    Fit the Gas Disconnect onto the end of the gas line, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)

    FIt the 8mm x 6.35mm duotight reducer onto the corresponding barb of the Carbonation Cap inside the kegerator. The gas line(s) inside the kegerator will then attach directly to this duotight fitting

    Connect the Gas Disconnect to the Carbonation Cap to complete the assembly

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    Setup Font, Taps and Beer line(s)

    Please refer to the for a detailed guide on the different types of fonts

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    Connect gas & beer lines to coupler or disconnects

    Please refer to the for assembly instructions for the different types of beer and gas connections

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    Balance Beer Lines and Carbonation levels

    Please refer to the for details on getting the system balanced for a great pour

    Operation

    Series X User Guide | Operation

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    Display Panel Legend

    Display Panel Legend
    1. Cooler (Down) Button

    2. Warmer (Up) Button

    3. Temperature

    4. Celsius/Fahrenheit Indicator

    5. Fan Indicator

    6. Celsius/Fahrenheit Button

    7. Fan Button

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    Adjusting the Set Point Temperature

    To adjust the Set Point Temperature:

    1. Press and hold the Up button for 5 seconds. The display will flash and show the current Set Point Temperature. This is a Child Safety Lock feature to prevent accidentally changing the Set Point Temperature.

    2. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify and save the Set Point Temperature. When the display stops flashing the new Set Point Temperature will be saved.

    NOTE: The Up or Down buttons must be pressed repeatedly to change the temperature. The temperature will not continue to change if the button is held down - this is a child lock feature.

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    Change Display between Celsius and Fahrenheit

    To change the displayed temperature between Celsius and Fahrenheit press the °F/°C button. Press it again to revert to the previous units.

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    Fan Operation

    The fan is designed for continuous operation. This will help maintain a consistent temperature. In addition, directing the font fan conduit inside the font can assist with keeping the taps and beer lines cold, which helps to minimise 'first beer foam' issues. If desired the fan can be turned on and off manually using the Fan Button. When the fan is on, the fan icon will be displayed.

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    Temperature Calibration

    If there is a large variance between the displayed temperature (IE the temperature of the internal temperature probe and the actual internal temperature of the kegerator (as measured by a calibrated thermometer) then the Temperature Offset can be adjusted from -10°C to 10°C

    A Temperature Offset will offset the displayed temperature by the entered amount.

    Thus, if the displayed temperature is 2°C but the actual internal temperature is 4°C, an offset of +2°C is required.

    Note: In most cases this is not necessary to be adjusted. There will be minor temperature differences in the kegerator due to airflow etc.

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    To Adjust the Offset

    1. Press and hold the Up and Down buttons for approx 5 seconds - until the display flashes SC

    2. Once the display flashes SC, release the Up or Down buttons and press the °F/°C button. This will display the current Offset Temperature (which should be 0°)

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    Cleaning Kegerator

    The exterior of the kegerator can be cleaned with a damp microfibre cloth and a mild spray cleaner. Stainless polish may be used on stainless surfaces (such as fonts etc). or solutions may also be used instead.

    Monitor the evaporator plate (at the back of the kegerator on top of the compressor). In normal use this should not be filled with water as the heat generated by the compressor will evaporate normal levels of water. If there is excessive water in the evaporator plate or it is overflowing please refer to

    The interior of the kegerator may be cleaned in the same manner. It is not uncommon for some mould to be present inside the kegerator due to the nature of use. If present, clean with a mild mould remover spray and a damp microfibre cloth. Be careful to not get mould spray on any fittings such as keg posts or disconnects.

    Guide to Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Series X Plus User Guide | Commercial Kegs & Couplers

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    Commercial (Brewery Made) Style Kegs

    Commercial kegs primarily come in a range of sizes; 20L, 30L and 50L. 50L kegs are the most common size. Commercial kegs come in three main styles: A-type, D-type and S-type. These three types of commercial kegs can be distinguished by the shape of their spear (shown below).

    In Australia A-type and D-type kegs are the most common. You will need to buy the specific keg coupler to fit the keg type, make sure that prior to buying a kegerator you know which type of keg you will be using and which keg coupler is required to dispense from this keg.

    As a general rule, CUB and related breweries use D-Type Couplers, all other breweries use A-Type Couplers. S-Type Couplers are typically only used for fully imported beers.

    The following diagram shows the different ypes of spear available:

    Once you have the correct coupler to suit your keg it will need to be assembled and connected to the beer and gas line.

    On a keg coupler there is an inlet for gas and an outlet for liquid. The gas inlet is positioned on a 45-degree angle and the liquid outlet is positioned vertically. It is important to connect the gas line and beer line to the correct inlet and outlet.

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    Keg Coupler Assembly

    Inside the KegLand coupler box you will find two types of one-way check valves: a gas duck bill valve and a liquid torpedo check piece.

    The duck bill valve is used for the gas inlet and the torpedo check piece or non-return ball is used for the liquid outlet. In a homebrew setting it may only be necessary to use a check valve in the gas inlet to prevent liquid flowing back in to the regulator.

    To install the gas duck bill valve, remove the black EPDM washer from inside the 5/8” duotight fitting on the gas inlet and then insert the gas duck bill valve into the opening (as shown below). Then screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler.

    To install the liquid torpedo check piece, remove the 5/8” duotight fitting keeping the black EPDM washer in place, then insert the ball and cage (in the order shown below) and then finally screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler. NOTE: The closed part of the cage must be at the top to hold the ball in place, otherwise this can block the beer from flowing.

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    How to use Keg Couplers

    Prior to attaching the keg coupler onto the keg make sure that a gas line is connected to the gas inlet and this gas line is connected to a regulator and a beer line is connected to the liquid outlet and this beer line is connected to a tap. Attaching the keg to the keg coupler is usually the last step of the kegerator setup.

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    A-Type Keg Coupler

    Slide the keg coupler over the groove on the top of the keg then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg. NOTE: To fit a 50L keg with an A-type keg coupler into a kegerator or if your keg is a DIN style keg (tall skinny style) you will need to use a KL00390

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    D-Type and S-Type Couplers

    Push the coupler into the opening of the spear and then rotate firmly clockwise to attach the coupler to the spear. Then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg.

    More detailed instructions on how to assemble and operate a keg coupler can be seen in this video:

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    Inserting EVABarrier hose into duotight fittings

    Before connecting EVABarrier ito duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689

    If the EVABarrier has been used previousLY, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.

    Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.

    Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.

    NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

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    Removing EVABarrier Hose from duotight fittings

    To remove EVABarrier froma duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.

    While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.

    Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.

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    Using Ball Lock DIsconnects with Commercial Couplers

    KegLand Commercial Couplers are supplied with duotight fittings that make connecting EVABarrier gas and beer line quite easy.

    However, if you plan on switching couplers or wish to use an alternative connection method that allows a bit more customisation, we recommend replacing the duotight fittings with Ball Lock Posts. When adding Ball Lock Posts to a coupler setup, it is recommended to also add a KL00390 which will make it easier to fit a 50L keg.

    You will also need a KL00840 and a KL00833 which will replace the duotight fittings on the coupler and allow you to use Ball Lock Disconnects on the beer and gas line instead

    Series 4 | User Guide

    KL00093 Series 4 User Guide | User Manual

    The KegLand Series 4 is a super budget friendly kegerator designed primarily for single tap setups with a 50L commercial keg. It can also hold up to 3 x 19L Cornelius Kegs.

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    Specifications

    • Climate Class: T (Tropical)

    • Refrigerant: R600a

    • Refrigerant Amount: 40g

    • Rated Current: 0.80A

    • Power: 85 Watts

    • Capacity: 163L

    • Voltage: 220-240V

    • Hz: 50-60Hz

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    How Many Kegs Can Fit In A Series 4 Kegerator?

    19L Ball Lock Kegs - Up to 3 9.5L Ball Lock Kegs - Up to 3 20L and 30L All Stainless Commercial Kegs - up to 2 x 20L kegs or 1 x 20L keg and 1 x 30L keg 50L Keg - 1

    Please Note: Heavy Duty Castor Wheels are not compatible with the Series 4 Kegerator Base Fridge with Regulator. Check out the Kegerator for a unit which can be optionally installed with Heavy Duty Castor wheels.

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    Dimensions

    • 600mm wide

    • 640mm deep

    • 840mm high

    • 890mm high with castors (fridge component only, not including font, guard rail or drip tray)

    Keg Types

    Series 4 User Guide | Different Keg Types

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    Different Keg Types

    When setting up a kegerator system at home, it is important to understand the differences between the two main types of keg on the market.

    The different kegs require different gas and beer line fittings inside the kegerator. Other components of the kegerator (taps, font etc) are interchangeable. The way in which the beer line and gas line is attached to the keg is the main point of difference.

    We divide kegerators into two types: Commercial (Brewery Made) Kegerator setups and Homebrew Kegerator setups. Kegs in both types are available in multiple sizes.

    It is possible to mix and match keg styles in the one kegerator, provided the kegs are small enough to fit. Simply use the correct connection (coupler or ball lock disconnects) on ach beer and gas line to allow this.

    For example, you may wish to have a on tap, as well as in a 19L keg. In that case, one beer/gas line would be terminated with an A Type Coupler, and the other would have a gas and a liquid ball lock disconnect.

    Choose the type of connector used to see how to set each gas line up

    Font Kit Assembly

    Series 4 User Guide | Font Kit Assembly

    KegLand Kegerators can be configured with different font and tap options.

    Depending on the kegerator, you can have from 1 - 8 taps, or possibly more with the Grand Deluxe range.

    Fonts and taps can also have different configurations - you may chose standard stainless NukaTapsarrow-up-right, the black Stealth Bomber NukaTapsarrow-up-right or possibly you need Flow Control NukaTapsarrow-up-right (if serving highly carbonated beverages, for example)

    Fonts can be a standard tower configuration, a tee bar or a super slim tee bar type.

    All KegLand Font Kits (as opposed to Font Only) include beer and gas line, shanks and duotight connectors (where necessary), standard black tap handles for NukaTaps and all required beer and gas line, as well as tee pieces to split the gas line as needed. A 7 in 1 tool for easy font and shank assembly is also required. The exact inclusions depend on the type of font and number of taps - please refer to the product page for the font kit for details.

    Please refer to the guide below for the selected font kit assembly

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    Compatible font options include:

    Keg Types

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Keg Types

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    Different Keg Types

    When setting up a kegerator system at home, it is important to understand the differences between the two main types of keg on the market.

    The different kegs require different gas and beer line fittings inside the kegerator. Other components of the kegerator (taps, font etc) are interchangeable. The way in which the beer line and gas line is attached to the keg is the main point of difference.

    We divide kegerators into two types: Commercial (Brewery Made) Kegeratorarrow-up-right setups and Homebrew Kegeratorarrow-up-right setups. Kegs in both types are available in multiple sizes.

    It is possible to mix and match keg styles in the one kegerator, provided the kegs are small enough to fit. Simply use the correct connection (coupler or ball lock disconnects) on ach beer and gas line to allow this.

    For example, you may wish to have a on tap, as well as in a 19L keg. In that case, one beer/gas line would be terminated with an A Type Coupler, and the other would have a gas and a liquid ball lock disconnect.

    Choose the type of connector used to see how to set each gas line up

    Guide to Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects

    Ball Lock fittings | Cornelius Kegs

    There are several types of Ball Lock keg available, including standard stainless 19L arrow-up-rightand 9.5Larrow-up-right Cornelius Kegs, stainless Mini Kegsarrow-up-right and also OXEBAR kegs in 20L, 8L and 4L sizesarrow-up-right. If using Mini Kegs or 4L or 8L OXEBAR Kegs you will also need a ball lock tapping head.

    To carbonate and dispense from a homebrew style keg you will need to use disconnects. These come in two different categories which are specific for ball-lock or pin-lock kegs. Balllock kegs require ball-lock disconnects and pin-lock kegs require pin-lock disconnects

    Each keg requires a liquid disconnect (black)arrow-up-right and a gas disconnect (grey)arrow-up-right. Due to the design of the posts on the keg a liquid disconnect can only be used on the black liquid (OUT) post and a gas disconnect can only be used on the grey gas (IN) post.

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    Inserting EVABarrier hose into duotight fittings

    Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689

    If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.

    Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.

    Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.

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    Removing EVABarrier Hose from duotight fittings

    To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.

    While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.

    Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.

    Font Kit Assembly

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Font Kit Assembly

    KegLand Kegerators can be configured with different font and tap options.

    Depending on the kegerator, you can have from 1 - 8 taps, or possibly more with the Grand Deluxe range.

    Fonts and taps can also have different configurations - you may chose standard stainless NukaTapsarrow-up-right, the black Stealth Bomber NukaTapsarrow-up-right or possibly you need Flow Control NukaTapsarrow-up-right (if serving highly carbonated beverages, for example)

    Fonts can be a standard tower configuration, a tee bar or a super slim tee bar type.

    All KegLand Font Kits (as opposed to Font Only) include beer and gas line, shanks and duotight connectors (where necessary), standard black tap handles for NukaTaps and all required beer and gas line, as well as tee pieces to split the gas line as needed. A 7 in 1 tool for easy font and shank assembly is also required. The exact inclusions depend on the type of font and number of taps - please refer to the product page for the font kit for details.

    Please refer to the guide below for the selected font kit assembly

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    Compatible font options include:

    Single, Double and Triple Font Kits

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Single, Double and Triple Font Kits

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the MK4 or MK5 regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator.

    3. Cut an approximately 1m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    4. Cut this section into approx 2 x 50cm lengths

    5. Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

    6. Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for beer or for

    7. Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

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    Triple Font

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator.

    3. Cut an approximately 1.5m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

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    Quad Font

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator.

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    Troubleshooting

    Grand Deluxe 3 | Troubleshooting

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    Beer is too frothy or no beer pours when the tap is opened

    • Check that the pressure on the regulator is set to the correct PSI and that the keg is beer is not over carbonated. If the beer is over carbonated release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the pressure relief valve and then set the regulator to the correct PSI. Typically for most beers in a short draw system around 10-12psi will give a good pour

    • If the beer line is too short then it can pour with too much froth, consider increasing the length of your beer line. KL06224 4mm x 8mm EVABarrier will normally pour well at around 1.8-2m

    • If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To check for and fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the pressure relief valve. Remove the liquid post using the correct sized wrench/spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post

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    Kegerator is not cooling to the set temperature

    • If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube(s) from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system

    • Place a jug of water in the fridge and measure the temperature of the water after 12 hours in the fridge to determine if the thermostat is reading the correct temperature. If this needs to be adjusted please refer to

    • Inspect inside the fan housing for ice build up. If there is visible ice build up run a manual defrost cycle by pressing theManual Defrost Button for more than 2 seconds to start a defrost cycle manually. The Grand Deluxe range are commercial kegerators with very powerful compressors. It is quite common to need to manually adjust the default Defrost Interval and Length settings to suit the conditions. Periodically inspect inside the compressor housing for ice build up and increase the duration cycle of the Defrost as required to prevent ice build up.

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | User Guide

    KL25898 | KL25904 | KL47296 | KL47302 | FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | User Guide

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    Introducing the Gen3 FermZilla Tri-Conical

    Now with 3 Inch Tri-Clover ferrule moulded into the tank and a 600mL Collection Container with a 3 Inch Tri-clover connection. Tri Clover fittings are the gold standard for sanitary design and effortless removal. This unit was born from customer feedback we received on the Gen 2 Model. No more complicated dump valve designs here, just simplicity.

    Brew with confidence in the new Tri-Clover FermZilla Range.

    The FermZilla allows many of the benefits of much more expensive stainless conical fermenters but with the additional benefit of being able to see the fermentation process in action and also ferment at pressures up to 2.4bar. This is an incredible product at an extremely attractive price point in all the different sizes and models.

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    What's new the difference between Gen2 and Gen3? 1. Moulded 3 inch tri clover ferrule in the body of the FermZilla tank 2. 3 inch Tri-Clover Butterfly Valve 3. 3 Inch Tri-Clover 600mL Collection Container

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    Is it easier to clean / take apart than the Gen2?

    YES, it is by far the easiest Conical PET fermenter to disassemble and clean! Simply release all pressure inside the vessel and detatch the tri clover clamps. All parts come apart easily and can be cleaned and sanitised individually with no effort.

    Dimensions - 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions

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    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions

    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions

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    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Tri Clover Lid

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    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong

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    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong + Butterfly Valve

    Warning & Components

    KL15868 Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator | Warning & Components

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    Warning - Important Information

    When attaching or disconnecting the regulator to or from a Sodastream or Sodastream compatible cylinder, always hold the neck of the cylinder with a spanner to prevent the cylinder valve from unscrewing

    CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space

    Always perform a leak test prior to use. Failure to do so may result in a leak occuring and the CO2 cylinder or bulb emptying

    Single, Double and Triple Font Kits

    Series X Plus User Guide | Single, Double and Triple Font Kits

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    Single, Double and Triple Tap Fonts

    1. Remove the cap from the top of the font and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks

    Quick Start Guide

    Series 4 User Guide | Quick Start Guide

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    IMPORTANT SETUP INFORMATION

    If kegerator has been moved/delivered do not turn it on unless it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours. Failure to do this will void warranty and may damage the kegerator. Leave the kegerator upright for at least 24 hours before plugging in mains power after receiving and unboxing

    Only tip kegerator onto right hand side (as seen from the front), when installing castors etc. Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues

    Guide to Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects

    Series 4 User Guide | Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects

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    Cornelius (Homebrew) Kegs

    There are two different styles of Cornelius kegs: Ball Lock and Pin Lock. Pin Lock kegs are not really in common use now. Any Cornelius style kegs purchased from KegLand will have Ball Lock fittings.

    Ball Lock fittings can be identified by the posts on the keg or tapping head and require the use of Ball Lock Disconnects:

    There are several types of Ball Lock keg available, including standard stainless

    Preparation & Installation

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Installation

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    WARNING - IMPORTANT INFORMATION

    If kegerator has been moved/delivered do not turn it on unless it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours. Failure to do this will void warranty and may damage the kegerator. Leave the kegerator upright for at least 24 hours before plugging in mains power after receiving and unboxing

    CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space

    Setup

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Setup

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    Setup

    Please refer to this video for a detailed guide to setting up a kegerator. This is for a Series X kegerator, but the specifics of font setup, balancing beer lines etc are exactly the same across kegerator models.

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    Quad Font Kits

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Quad Font Kits

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    Quadruple Tap Font Kits

    1. Remove the cap from the top of the font and attach the font to the top of the kegerator using four metric M5 stainless steel screws. The mounting points can be found on the inside of the font and can be attached using a long screwdriver, bit extender or flexible drill bit

    Tee Bar Font Kits

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Tee Bar Font Kits

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    Tee Bar Fonts

    1. Remove the caps from the end of the fonts and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks

    Specifications

    Grand Deluxe 3 | Specifications

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    WARNING - IMPORTANT INFORMATION

    If kegerator has been moved/delivered do not turn it on unless it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours. Failure to do this will void warranty and may damage the kegerator. Leave the kegerator upright for at least 24 hours before plugging in mains power after receiving and unboxing

    CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space

    Never exceed 40psi in your keg system

    Important Information & Warnings

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Important Information

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    Warnings

    This instruction sheet contains vital information that is related to the safe usage and handling of the FermZilla Tri-Conical Unitank.

    It is vital that you read this instruction sheet from front to back before using the product!

    THIS IS FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY WHEN USING A PRESSURISABLE FERMENTAION VESSEL

    IMPORTANT: Do not spray any duotight fittings with StellarSan or phosphoric acid solution to perform a leak test.

    Fully unwind the (anti clockwise) the regulator knob

  • Remove Gas Disconnect from the keg

  • (If using) Remove Gas Disconnect from gas inlet of kegerator

  • (If possible) Weigh the CO2 cylinder

  • Wait at least 12 hours

  • If the pressure on the regulator has gone down, the regulator, gas line or fittings may have a leak

  • Test the keg(s) by pulling the PRV. If no CO2 is released then the keg may have a leak.

  • Once the general location of the leak has been determined by isolation testing, perform a Detergent Bubble Test in order to locate the leak precisely.

  • NOTE: It is safe to submerge duotight fittings and EVABarrier in water when locating leaks. Regulators cannot be safely immersed

    Series Xarrow-up-right
    KL07429 MK4 Regulatorarrow-up-right
    KL30670 MK5 Regulatorarrow-up-right
    KL06880 8mm x FFL duotight fittingarrow-up-right
    KL10788 arrow-up-right
    KL20756 arrow-up-right
    KL07481arrow-up-right
    KL10788 arrow-up-right
    KL20756 arrow-up-right
    KL07481arrow-up-right
    Font Assemblyarrow-up-right
    Keg Types guidearrow-up-right
    Balancing Kegerator Lines & CO2 guidearrow-up-right
    Alternative Gas Bulkhead Fitting
    check all items
    KL07429 MK4 Regulatorarrow-up-right
    KL30670 MK5 Regulatorarrow-up-right
    KL06880 8mm x FFL duotight fittingarrow-up-right
    KL10788 arrow-up-right
    KL20756 arrow-up-right
    KL07481arrow-up-right
    KL10788 arrow-up-right
    KL20756 arrow-up-right
    KL07481arrow-up-right
    Font Assemblyarrow-up-right
    Keg Types guidearrow-up-right
    Balancing Kegerator Lines & CO2 guidearrow-up-right
    Alternative Gas Bulkhead Fitting
    TALOS keg of craft beerarrow-up-right
    on demand soda waterarrow-up-right
    Cover

    Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Cover

    Homebrew Kegs & Disconnects

    Single Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Double Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Triple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Single Tap Black Phantom Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Double Tap Black Phantom Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Triple Tap Black Phantom Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Cover

    Single, Double & Triple Tower Style Font Kits

    TALOS keg of craft beerarrow-up-right
    on demand soda waterarrow-up-right
    Cover

    Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Cover

    Homebrew Kegs & Disconnects

    Single Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Double Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Triple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Quadruple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Single Tap Black Phantom Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Double Tap Black Phantom Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Triple Tap Black Phantom Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Quadruple Tap Black Phantom Font Kitarrow-up-right
    4 Tap T-Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kitarrow-up-right
    Cover

    Single, Double & Triple Tower Style Font Kits

    Cover

    Quad Font Tower Style Kits

    Cover

    Tee Bar Font Kits

    Temperature Calibration
    Tube Cutterarrow-up-right
    Using a 7 in 1 tool to remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting
    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Tri Clover Lid
    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong
    55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong + Butterfly Valve

    20ml

    40ml

    6mm

    3m

    28ml

    84ml

    4mm

    1.5 metres – 2 metres

    5mm

    2 metres – 3 metres

    6.35mm

    3 metres – 4 metres

    4mm

    1.5m

    12.5ml

    19ml

    5mm

    Carbonation Chart
    dual pressure regulatorarrow-up-right
    inline regulatorarrow-up-right

    2m

    Series X Plus
    Series X
    Cut this section into approx 2 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

  • Cut this section into approx 3 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

    Triple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

  • Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

  • Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
    liquid ball lock disconnect
    keg coupler
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    commercial (brewery made)
    homebrew
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    MK4
    MK5
    this guide
    Attach duotight reducer to short shank
    Tightening Short Shank with 7 in 1 tool
    Double Gas Line Configuration
    Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Temperature Offset (from 10°C to -10°C)
  • Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 5 seconds)

  • The display will revert to the current kegerator temperature. This will be different to the value displayed before the offset adjustment was made if the operation was performed correctly.

  • StellarClean PBWarrow-up-right
    StellarOxyarrow-up-right
    Troubleshooting
    Cut this section into approx 3 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

    Triple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

  • Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
  • Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
  • Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

  • Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

  • commercial (brewery made)
    homebrew
    MK4
    MK5
    MK4
    MK5
    Double Gas Line Configuration

    Do not submerge the regulator in liquid at any time

    Ensure the regulator is set to an equal or higher pressure than the keg to prevent liquid ingress. If liquid enters the regulator it can result in the regulator being damaged

    Do not overtighten the CO2 cylinder or Co2 bulb onto the regulator

    Regularly lubricate the thumb screw assembly, especially if the regulator is used in a cold environment

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    Regulator Components

    NOTE: Output 1 and Output 2 are identical. The duotight compatible barb and the FFL fitting can be used in either outlet as desired, allowing you to change the orientation of the regulator to suit.

    NOTE: It is essential to lubricate the thumb screw shaft regularly and prior to first use.

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    Lubricating Thumb Screw

    It is highly recommended to lubricate the thumbscrew before use and at regular intervals to maintain performance. This will assist with ease of operation and is important as a maintenance step if the Mini 360 Regulator is used in adverse environments (such as inside a kegerator or fridge)

    Food grade lube such as Mini Haynes Food Grade Lube 28garrow-up-right is ideal.

    1. Disconnect the regulator from the pressure source

    2. Turn the thumb screw all the way anti-clockwise so it’s out as far as it will go

    3. Apply food grade lubricant to the thread or shaft of the thumb screw as shown below. Rotate the thumb screw in both directions to spread the lubricant over the thumb screw components

    NOTE: It is completely normal for the thumb screw to be tight when under pressure

    When the regulator has a cylinder attached and is under pressure the thumb screw will be more difficult to turn but with moderate force it still will move. When the pressure is released it will become easier to turn.

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    How To Swap Outputs

    1. Undo the flathead grub screw holding the output end cap in position and remove the output end cap

    1. Insert the output end cap into the unused output and tighten firmly using the grub screw

    2. Insert the required fitting into the output required to be used and tighten firmly using the grub screw

    3. If required (IE if the other output will not be used) insert the end cap into the unused output and tighten the grub screw to hold it in place

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    Swapping the Mini Gauge

    As standard, the Mini 360 Regulator includes a 0-60psi - Mini gauge 27mm x 27mm x 8mm Radial Stemarrow-up-right

    If desired, this can be swapped for similar gauges with different ranges:

    • KL14984 Mini Gauge 27mm x 27mm x 8mm Radial Stem 0-15 PSIarrow-up-right

    • KL14991 Mini Gauge 27mm x 27mm x 8mm Radial Stem 0-30 PSIarrow-up-right

    • KL15011 Mini Gauge 27mm x 27mm x 8mm Radial Stem 0-150 PSIarrow-up-right

    Another all purpose option is the KL18388 High Accuracy Mini Digital Illuminated Gauge 27mm x 27mm x 8mm 0-90psiarrow-up-right

    To swap the installed Mini Gauge:

    1. Unscrew the two socket head cap screws which hold the mini gauge cover in position and remove the mini gauge cover

    1. Carefully pull out the gauge. A small allen key or similar can be used as a lever in the screew sockets, or hold the face plate (be careful to not bend it)

    2. Once removed, install the replacement gauge in the desired orientation and fasten in place with the screws

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    Replacing the PRV

    The Mini 360 Regulator comes with a green 65psi PRV (Pressure Relief Valve). If desired this can be swapped for a different PRV (for example, if you wish to regulate pressures higher than 60psi)

    Available PRVs include:

    • KL22569 PRV (YELLOW 17psi / 1.2BAR)arrow-up-right

    • KL05333 PRV (RED 35psi / 2.5BAR)arrow-up-right

    • KL03070 PRV (GREY 100psi / 7BAR)arrow-up-right

    • KL09164 PRV - this is pre-installed

    To replace the PRV, simply unscrew the installed PRV (anticlockwise) and thread the replacement into position, ensuring it is snug.

    Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
  • Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    Attach duotight reducer to short shank
  • Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font

  • Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

  • Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.

  • Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

  • Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

  • Using the included M5 x 30mm bolts, mount the font onto the kegerator after feeding the lines through into the kegerator

  • Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a liquid ball lock disconnect or keg coupler

  • Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

  • Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

  • Tightening Short Shank with 7 in 1 tool

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    EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Single Font Kit only)

    1. Double check that the EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the MK4 or MK5 regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using this guide

    3. Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew

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    EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Double, Triple or Quad Font Kit)

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    Double Font

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the MK4 or MK5 regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using this guide

    3. Cut an approximately 1m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    4. Cut this section into approx 2 x 50cm lengths

    5. Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

    6. Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for beer or for

    7. Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

    Double Gas Line Configuration

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    Triple Font

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the MK4 or MK5 regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using this guide

    3. Cut an approximately 1.5m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    4. Cut this section into approx 3 x 50cm lengths

    5. Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

    6. Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for beer or for

    7. Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

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    Quad Font

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the MK4 or MK5 regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using this guide

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    4. Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths

    5. Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece

    6. Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for beer or for

    7. Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee

    CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space

    Never exceed 40psi in your keg system

    Always flush chemicals from the beer line completely before tapping keg

    Always check for gas leaks once the kegerator is set up

    Ensure there is at least 100mm clearance on each side of the kegerator after installation. Failure to allow adequate clearance will impact cooling performance and void warranty

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    Inclusions

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    IMPORTANT

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    Setup

    Please refer to this video for a detailed guide to setting up a kegerator.

    This video is specific to a Series X.1 kegerator, but is worth watching as it has a lot of up to date information about duotight fittings etc.

    For detailed, step by step instructions, read on!

    and
    Cornelius Kegs,
    and also OXEBAR kegs in
    . If using Mini Kegs or 4L or 8L OXEBAR Kegs you will also need a ball lock tapping head.

    To carbonate and dispense from a homebrew style keg you will need to use disconnects. These come in two different categories which are specific for ball-lock or pin-lock kegs. Balllock kegs require ball-lock disconnects and pin-lock kegs require pin-lock disconnects

    Each keg requires a liquid disconnect (black)arrow-up-right and a gas disconnect (grey)arrow-up-right. Due to the design of the posts on the keg a liquid disconnect can only be used on the black liquid (OUT) post and a gas disconnect can only be used on the grey gas (IN) post.

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    Inserting EVABarrier hose into duotight fittings

    Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689 Tube Cutterarrow-up-right

    If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.

    Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.

    Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.

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    Removing EVABarrier Hose from duotight fittings

    To remove EVABarrier froma duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.

    While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.

    Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.

    Using a 7 in 1 tool to remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting
    Ball Lock fittings | Cornelius Kegs
    19L arrow-up-right
    9.5Larrow-up-right
    stainless Mini Kegsarrow-up-right
    20L, 8L and 4L sizesarrow-up-right
    Never exceed 40psi in your keg system

    Always flush chemicals from the beer line completely before tapping keg

    Always check for gas leaks once the kegerator is set up

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    Included

    • MK4 CO2 Type 30 Regulator

    • Black Reinforced Plastic Drip Tray

    • Font Plug

    • Swappable Door Hinges

    • Custom Adhesive Door Handle (Place the door handle either horizontal on top of the door, or vertical. The choice is yours for which aesthetic is most pleasing)

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    Specifications

    • Climate Class: T (Tropical)

    • Refrigerant: R600a

    • Gas Amount: 25g

    • Rated Current: 1A

    • Power: 106 Watts

    • Fridge Capacity: 170L

    • Voltage: AC220V

    • Hz: 50Hz

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    KegLand Undercover Kegerator Dimensions

    Width - 600mm Height - 865mm (no castors) Depth - 600mm (640mm including handle and rear fittings) Download the drawings of this model herearrow-up-right.

    Designed to fit in a standard 600mm wide cavity

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    Installation Guide

    For a detailed guide on installing the UnderCover Kegerator into your cabinetry/indor or outdoor bar setup, please refer to this video:

    Please note as that as this unit is designed to be built in it does not include castor wheels, a guard rail or CO2 cylinder bracket.

    Preparation
    • Remove all items from inside kegerator

    • Ensure all items have been included

    • Remove any protective plastic from the kegerator before first use

    • Check for any damage which has occurred during transit including any liquid or oil marks on the inside of the packaging

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    Installing Regulator onto the CO2 Cylinder

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    KL07429 MK4 Regulatorarrow-up-right

    Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench

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    KL30670 MK5 Regulatorarrow-up-right

    Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder using the knurled grip. MK5 Regulators can be hand tightened due to the new spigot seal design that easily compresses

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    Attach 8mm EVABarrier gas line to the Regulator

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    KL07429 MK4 Regulator

    The MK4 regulator comes as standard with a KL06880 8mm x FFL duotight fittingarrow-up-right

    Thread the KL06880 duotight fitting onto the regulator by hand, then tighten gently with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench. NOTE: DO not over tighten as this may cause the duotight fitting to split

    Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut

    Push the line firmly into the KL06880 duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)

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    KL30670 MK5 Regulator

    The MK5 regulator comes as standard with an 8mm duotight ball valve and integrated check valve

    Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut

    Push the line firmly into the duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted fully (approx.22mm)

    Ensure the ball valve is opened before using the MK5 Regulator

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    Setup Font, Taps and Beer line(s)

    Please refer to the Font Assemblyarrow-up-right for a detailed guide on the different types of fonts

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    Connect gas & beer lines to coupler or disconnects

    Please refer to the Keg Types guidearrow-up-right for assembly instructions for the different types of beer and gas connections

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    Balance Beer Lines and Carbonation levels

    Please refer to the Balancing Kegerator Lines & CO2 guidearrow-up-right for details on getting the system balanced for a great pour

    Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

  • Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    Attach duotight reducer to short shank
  • Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font

  • Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

  • Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.

  • Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

  • Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

  • Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a liquid ball lock disconnect or keg coupler

  • Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

  • Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

    Tightening Short Shank with 7 in 1 tool
  • NOTE: It is easiest to attach the shanks in the order below:

  • Correct shank order | Quad Font

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    EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Quad Font Kit)

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    Quad Font

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the MK4 or MK5 regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator.

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    4. Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths

    5. Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces

    6. Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for beer or for

    7. Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees

    NOTE: Install shanks from the middle of the font outwards
  • Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

  • Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    Attach duotight reducer to short shank
  • Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font. Angling the shank off to the side slightly is generally easiest

  • Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

  • Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.

  • Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

  • Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

  • Using the included M5 x 30mm bolts, mount the font onto the kegerator after feeding the lines through into the kegerator

  • Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a liquid ball lock disconnect or keg coupler

  • Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

  • Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

    Tightening Short Shank with 7 in 1 tool
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    EVABarrier Gas Line Setup (Four Tap Tee Bar Font Kits)

    1. Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the MK4 or MK5 regulator

    2. Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator.

    3. Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end

    4. Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths

    5. Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces

    6. Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for beer or for

    7. Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees

    Always flush chemicals from the beer line completely before tapping keg

    Always check for gas leaks once the kegerator is set up

    if fridge has just been moved do not turn on unless it has been standing upright for atleast 24 hours. Failure to do so will void warranty. Stand fridge in the upright position for 24 hours before plugging into mains power socket

    Climate Class 4 - recommended to be used inside an area that does not exceed 30°c and 55% relative humidity. If used outside, note that the compressor will operate for longer intervals and defrost cycles will need to be adjusted based on temperature/humidity levels

    These units do not have heated doors. In areas of high humidity the doors can frost or produce condensation

    Ensure there is at least 100mm clearance on the left side of the kegerator (compressor side) after installation. Failure to allow adequate clearance will impact cooling performance and void warranty

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    Included

    • 6 x Heavy Duty Castor Wheels and bolts

    • Rubberised wire racks (2 shelves two door models, 4 shelves in three door models)

    • Font fan conduit (single run for two door models, double run for three door models)

    • Inbuilt countersunk stainless drip tray system with drainage tubes fitted

    • Door keys

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    Dimensions (Grand Deluxe 3 Two Door Model)

    External: 1495mm (L) x 705mm (W) x 910 (H) [without 100mm castor wheels] Internal: 1160mm (L) x 550mm (D) x 780mm (H)

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    Dimensions (Grand Deluxe 3 Three Door Model)

    External: 2300mm (L) x 710mm (W) x 910 (H) [without 100mm castor wheels] Internal: 1970mm (L) x 550mm (D) x 780mm (H) Distance from the centre of the font holes: 714mm

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    Specifications

    • Durable Dixell temperature controller.

    • r290 refrigerant gas. This is more electrically efficient, environmentally friendly and gives better cooling performance.

    • Embraco Compressor - EM2X3117U (Two Door), EM2X3125U (Three Door)

    • 220V

    • 304 Stainless Steel Countertops with thick core foam to aid in temperature loss from your refrigerator.

    • Black matte steel finish on the outside that has been chemically engineered with a vinyl substrate to prevent corrosion.

    • Double glazed tempered safety glass with self-closing lockable doors as standard.

    • Exterior LED light switch

    • Inbuilt countersunk stainless drip tray system with drainage tubes fitted. Font mounting hole(s) pre-fitted.

    Do not loosen the tri-clover clamps when the FermZilla is under pressure. Purge all pressure in the FermZilla and the collection container before loosening the tri-clover clamps

  • When not under pressure do not expose to liquids above 55°C (131°F). Only clean, wash or sanitise the fermenter with cold water

  • When under pressure do not expose to any temperatures above 35°C (95°F)

  • Keep the fermenter out of direct sun or heat. Do not expose to UV rays of any sort

  • If using a heat belt to warm the fermenter then only have the heat belt sitting below the liquid level. Do not use an unregulated heat source, only use heat sources which are plugged into a temperature controller

  • Under no circumstances apply more than 2.5bar (35psi) to the fermenter. Do not connect an unregulated pressure source. If you connect external pressure source ensure it has independent PRV pre-set to 35psi or below

  • A spunding valve set below 35psi must always be connected to the FermZilla when fermenting under pressure or connected to the recipient keg when performing a closed transfer. Recommended range for pressure fermenting is 10-12psi

  • Do not tamper with the pressure relief valve. Only use the red or yellow coloured pressure relief valve supplied by KegLand

  • If vigorous fermentation is experienced and krausen or wort has contacted the PRV, ensure the PRV is removed and cleaned before putting the FermZilla under pressure

  • If the fermenter is scratched, damaged or has been under any physical duress; do not use the fermenter under pressure without hydro-testing

  • If you use the fermenter under pressure hydro test the fermenter every 24 months to ensure it is safe to use

  • Only use chemical cleaners and sanitizers that are approved by Kegland. These include: KL05371 Ethyl Sanitiser Sprayarrow-up-right (effective for sanitising the exterior of the FermZilla) , KL05357 StellarSanarrow-up-right (mixed to the correct dilution), KL05494 StellarClean PBWarrow-up-right (not to be left in the FermZilla for more than 30 minutes), KL07405 StellarOxyarrow-up-right. Or contact https://www.kegland.com.au/arrow-up-right for more information regarding other compatible chemical cleaning products

  • Always keep the butterfly valve open during fermentation. Only close the butterfly valve once fermentation has ceased and hydrometer readings are stable for 3 consecutive days

  • Open the butterfly valve and ensure the system (including the collection container) is depressurized prior to removing the collection container

  • Do not over tighten carbonation caps onto the threads of the lid or collection container. Doing so can result in the thread being stripped or cracked. We recommend using KL10788 Multi Gas Post Plastic Carbonation Cap (available in redarrow-up-right (gas) and yellowarrow-up-right (liquid)

  • Do not over tighten the stainless-steel handles onto the neck of the FermZilla

  • Avoid lifting the FermZilla while full. If filled with wort avoid moving the FermZilla to prevent sticky wort from preventing the PRV from operating

  • Always conduct a leak test prior to beginning fermentation

  • Lubricating the Butterfly valve gate and all O-rings will prolong the life of the unit. We recommend Haynes Food Grade Lubearrow-up-right

  • When fermenting under pressure, a PRV alone is not sufficient. A Spunding Valvearrow-up-right must be used to ensure pressure dos not build beyond safe limits.

  • Using a Spunding Valve to ferment under Pressure

    Series X Plus - Replacement Guard Railarrow-up-right
    Carbonation Chart Stickerarrow-up-right
    Low Profile Elbow Bendarrow-up-right
    Tube Cutterarrow-up-right
    Low Profile Elbow Bendarrow-up-right
    Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Liquidarrow-up-right
    Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Gasarrow-up-right
    Different commercial spear/coupler styles
    Inlet/outlet | A Type Keg Coupler
    Using a 7 in 1 tool to remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting
    Couplers adapted for Ball Lock Posts
    Low Profile Elbow Bendarrow-up-right
    Tube Cutterarrow-up-right
    Low Profile Elbow Bendarrow-up-right
    Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Liquidarrow-up-right
    Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Gasarrow-up-right
    Different commercial spear/coupler styles
    Inlet/outlet | A Type Keg Coupler
    Using a 7 in 1 tool to remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting
    Couplers adapted for Ball Lock Posts

    Leak & Pressure Testing

    Series X Plus User Guide | Leak & Pressure Testing

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    Important

    Performing a CO2 leak test is important to ensure that your system will hold pressure and that there are no leaks in any connections in the system.

    If there are any leaks this can result in the CO2 cylinder becoming empty in a short period.

    Initial pressure testing can be performed in two different ways. If leaks are detected an Isolation Test can help determine the location of he leak.

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    Method 1 - Pressure Decay Test

    1

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    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

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    Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test

    1

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    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

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    Isolation Test

    If any CO2 leaks are detected, if can be helpful to perform an Isolation Test to determine where the leak is in the system

    1

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    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

    Leak & Pressure Testing

    Series 4 User Guide | Leak & Pressure Testing

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    Important

    Performing a CO2 leak test is important to ensure that your system will hold pressure and that there are no leaks in any connections in the system.

    If there are any leaks this can result in the CO2 cylinder becoming empty in a short period.

    Initial pressure testing can be performed in two different ways. If leaks are detected an Isolation Test can help determine the location of he leak.

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    Method 1 - Pressure Decay Test

    1

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    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

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    Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test

    1

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    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

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    Isolation Test

    If any CO2 leaks are detected, if can be helpful to perform an Isolation Test to determine where the leak is in the system

    1

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    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

    Leak & Pressure Testing

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Leak & Pressure Testing

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    Important

    Performing a CO2 leak test is important to ensure that your system will hold pressure and that there are no leaks in any connections in the system.

    If there are any leaks this can result in the CO2 cylinder becoming empty in a short period.

    Initial pressure testing can be performed in two different ways. If leaks are detected an Isolation Test can help determine the location of he leak.

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    Method 1 - Pressure Decay Test

    1

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    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

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    Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test

    1

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    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

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    Isolation Test

    If any CO2 leaks are detected, if can be helpful to perform an Isolation Test to determine where the leak is in the system

    1

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    Connect System

    Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution

    2

    Dimensions

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Dimensions

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    KL15189 FermZilla All Rounder 30L Dimensions

    30L All Rounder | Dimensions

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    KL15196 FermZilla All Rounder 60L Dimensions

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    30L All Rounder Mega Grip Dimensions

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    30L All Rounder Mega Grip Dimensions - Tri Clover Lid

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    30L All Rounder Mega Grip Dimensions - Hop Bong

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    60L All Rounder Mega Grip Dimensions

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    60L All Rounder Mega Grip Dimensions - Tri Clover Lid

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    60L All Rounder Mega Grip Dimensions - Hop Bong

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | User Guide

    KL15189 | KL15196 | FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | User Guide

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    Introducing the FermZilla All Rounder

    The FermZilla All Rounder is the perfect fermentation vessel that can be used for fermenting under pressure, carbonating and dispensing. It's far more capable than the FermZilla Flat bottomarrow-up-right but it's less complicated and less expensive than the Gen3 FermZilla Tri-Conicalarrow-up-right.

    Just like the name says - this is the All Rounder!

    Easy to Clean This fermenter is made from super smooth PET so it's easy to clean. Just use a small scoop of ( and wipe it clean after a 5 minute soak. No scrubbing necessary!

    Large 120mm Opening The opening at the top is much larger then the older Snub Nose or other similar fermenters. This bad boy has a 120mm opening so even brewers with large arms can easily get into the top making cleaning even easier.

    Pressure Rated This fermenter is rated up to 2.5bar so you can force carbonate just like a keg. You can use this fermenter for closed transfers and significantly reduce oxygen exposure.

    Crystal Clear The wall of the All Rounder is crystal clear so you can see what's going on inside. This means you can see exactly what is happening at all stages during fermentation, which is a massive boon for new and experienced brewers!

    Impermeable The PET plastic is not permeable like some other fermenters made from PP or HDPE. The fermenter wall is a much better gas barrier keeping your product fresher for longer, and will massively cut down on the potential for oxidation or infection

    Brew with confidence in the new Tri-Clover FermZilla Range.

    The FermZilla allows many of the benefits of much more expensive stainless conical fermenters but with the additional benefit of being able to see the fermentation process in action and also ferment at pressures up to 2.4bar. This is an incredible product at an extremely attractive price point in all the different sizes and models.

    Dimensions - 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions

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    27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions

    27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions

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    27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Tri Clover Lid

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    27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong

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    27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong + Butterfly Valve

    Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

    Series X Plus User Guide | Balancing Lines

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    Beer Line Diameter and Length Correlation

    To ensure you get a consistent pour with the correct amount of head it is important to ensure the length of beer is correlated with the internal diameter of the EVABarrier hose. The suggested length of beer line for each internal diameter is outlined below.

    To get a great pour with good head the length of the beer line needs to be adjusted according to the internal diameter of the line and to the carbonation level of the liquid being dispensed. Broadly speaking, the smaller the internal diameter of the beer line the less line is required to get a good flow. For that reason, the standard line used for beer line in all KegLand Font Kits is KL06224

    Operation

    Series X Plus User Guide | Operation

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    Display Panel Legend

    1. Cooler (Down) Button

    Preparation & Setup

    Series 4 User Guide | Preparation & Setup

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    Installation & Setup

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    Preparation

    Remove and

    Guide to Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Series 4 User Guide | Comerrcial Kegs & Couplers

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    Commercial (Brewery Made) Style Kegs

    Commercial kegs primarily come in a range of sizes; 20L, 30L and 50L. 50L kegs are the most common size. Commercial kegs come in three main styles: A-type, D-type and S-type. These three types of commercial kegs can be distinguished by the shape of their spear (shown below).

    In Australia A-type and D-type kegs are the most common. You will need to buy the specific keg coupler to fit the keg type, make sure that prior to buying a kegerator you know which type of keg you will be using and which keg coupler is required to dispense from this keg.

    Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

    Series 4 User Guide | Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

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    Beer Line Diameter and Length Correlation

    To ensure you get a consistent pour with the correct amount of head it is important to ensure the length of beer is correlated with the internal diameter of the EVABarrier hose. The suggested length of beer line for each internal diameter is outlined below.

    To get a great pour with good head the length of the beer line needs to be adjusted according to the internal diameter of the line and to the carbonation level of the liquid being dispensed. Broadly speaking, the smaller the internal diameter of the beer line the less line is required to get a good flow. For that reason, the standard line used for beer line in all KegLand Font Kits is KL06224

    Operation

    Series 4 User Guide | Operation

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    Display Panel Legend

    1. Cooler (Down) Button

    Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure

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    Beer Line Diameter and Length Correlation

    To ensure you get a consistent pour with the correct amount of head it is important to ensure the length of beer is correlated with the internal diameter of the EVABarrier hose. The suggested length of beer line for each internal diameter is outlined below.

    To get a great pour with good head the length of the beer line needs to be adjusted according to the internal diameter of the line and to the carbonation level of the liquid being dispensed. Broadly speaking, the smaller the internal diameter of the beer line the less line is required to get a good flow. For that reason, the standard line used for beer line in all KegLand Font Kits is KL06224

    Setup & Assembly

    Grand Deluxe 3 | Setup & Assembly

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    Video Guide

    Please refer to this video for a detailed walkthrough on assembling a kegerator. This is specific to the Series X range, but most of the information is relevant to all kegerator setups

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    from inside the kegerator

    Remove any protective film and tape from the kegerator

    Inspect kegerator for any damage that may have incurred in transit including liquid or oil marks inside packaging. If any damage is noted contact your retailer

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    Castor Wheels Installation

    Make sure the kegerator is empty

    Carefully lay the kegerator on its side on a soft surface such as carpet, cardboard or a towel. NOTE: Ensure the kegerator is tipped onto the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues

    Unscrew the feet from the base of the kegerator

    Remove the screws in the base of the kegerator in each corner. These are pre-installed screws that are used to mount the castor wheels. NOTE: These can be quite tight from the factory. A 5/16" socket or wrench will allow more leverage than a Philips driver if required

    The two locking castor wheels should be installed towards the front of the kegerator

    Position the kegerator back upright and leave for a minimum 1 hour before turning it on to allow the refrigerant gas to settle. If installing the castors shortly after receiving the kegerator, leave the kegerator upright for a minimum of 24 hours before turning it on

    NOTE: The screw holes may be filled with foam and have a foil covering. If this is the case push and thread the screws through the foam or foil. The screw will then catch on the thread allowing it to be screwed in completely

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    Chrome Plated Guard Rail Installation

    Position the guard rail so the feet line up with the holes in the top of the kegerator

    Push the feet of the railing firmly into the holes

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    CO2 Cylinder Bracket Installation (optional)

    Align the four holes in the bracket with the four studs on the back of the kegerator

    Insert the studs into the holes and then push the bracket down firmly to secure it

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    Installing Regulator onto the CO2 Cylinder

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    KL07429 MK4 Regulatorarrow-up-right

    Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench

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    KL30670 MK5 Regulatorarrow-up-right

    Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder using the knurled grip. MK5 Regulators can be hand tightened due to the new spigot seal design that easily compresses

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    Attach 8mm EVABarrier gas line to the Regulator

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    KL07429 MK4 Regulator

    The MK4 regulator comes as standard with a KL06880 8mm x FFL duotight fittingarrow-up-right

    Thread the KL06880 duotight fitting onto the regulator by hand, then tighten gently with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench. NOTE: DO not over tighten as this may cause the duotight fitting to split

    Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut

    Push the line firmly into the KL06880 duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)

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    KL30670 MK5 Regulator

    The MK5 regulator comes as standard with an 8mm duotight ball valve and integrated check valve

    Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut

    Push the line firmly into the duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted fully (approx.22mm)

    Ensure the ball valve is opened before using the MK5 Regulator

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    Feed the 8mm EVABarrier gas line into the Kegerator

    Unscrew one of the caps on the back of the Series X and feed the EVABarrier gas line through the hole

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    Setup Font, Taps and Beer line(s)

    Please refer to the Font Assembly for a detailed guide on the different types of fonts

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    Connect gas & beer lines to coupler or disconnects

    Please refer to the Keg Types guide for assembly instructions for the different types of beer and gas connections

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    Balance Beer Lines and Carbonation levels

    Please refer to the Balancing Kegerator Lines & CO2 guide for details on getting the system balanced for a great pour

    check all items
    StellarCleanarrow-up-right
    Powerful Brewery Wash)arrow-up-right
    commercial (brewery made)
    homebrew
    commercial (brewery made)
    homebrew
    commercial (brewery made)
    homebrew
    Triple Gas Line Configuration
    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
    commercial (brewery made)
    homebrew
    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
    commercial (brewery made)
    homebrew
    Quadruple Gas Line Configuration
    Using a Spunding Valve to ferment under Pressure
    60L All Rounder | Dimensions
    30L All Rounder Mega Grip Dimensions
    30L All Rounder Mega Grip Dimensions - Tri Clover Lid
    30L All Rounder Mega Grip Dimensions - Hop Bong
    60L All Rounder Mega Grip Dimensions
    60L All Rounder Mega Grip Dimensions - Tri Clover Lid
    60L All Rounder Mega Grip Dimensions - Hop Bong
    27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Tri Clover Lid
    27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong
    27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong + Butterfly Valve
    (GREEN 65psi / 4.5BAR)arrow-up-right
    Series X Plus Installation Video
    Commercial Keg Couplers
    Commercial Keg Couplers
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    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

    3

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    Turn CO2 cylinder valve off

    Once pressurised, turn the valve handle on the CO2 cylinder clockwise until the valve is turned off

    4

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    Check Pressure

    Wait for at least two hours then check the pressure reading on the right hand (low pressure) gauge of the regulator

    If the pressure reading has not changed (so is still reading ~20psi) then there are no leaks in the system

    If the pressure has dropped a noticeable amount then it is very likely there is a leak in the system. Use Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test to locate the leak. Note: Even if this test is passed it is quite a good idea to perform this test in any case

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    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 40-50psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to ensure the system is properly pressurised. Note: We use a higher pressure in order to make any leaks easier to detect. Ensure there is no beer in the keg as it may become over-carbonated

    3

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    Check For Leaks

    Using a soapy water solution (washing up liquid and water is perfect for this) in a spry bottle or simply dabbed on, check for leaks at all connections. The soapy water spray will slowly bubble if there are any leaks.

    Connections to check include:

    • The connection between the CO2 cylinder and the regulator • All duotight connections including the 8mm x FFL duotight connected to the regulator, ball lock disconnects and keg coupler, the 6.5mm x 8mm duotight reducers connected to the short shanks and the 8mm duotight tee pieces • Around ball lock disconnects and keg couplers when they are connected to the keg • Around the lid of a Cornelius keg • Make sure to remove the ball lock disconnects from the posts of the ball lock keg and check the post itself for leaks

    IMPORTANT: Do not spray any duotight fittings with StellarSan or phosphoric acid solution to perform a leak test.

    4

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    Perform a Pressure Decay Test

    Once any leaks have been located and fixed, perform another Pressure Decay Test to ensure that the system holds pressure

    hashtag
    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

    3

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    Isolate System

    Once the system is pressurised, isolate each part of the system.

    1. Turn valve of CO2 cylinder fully off.

    2. Fully unwind the (anti clockwise) the regulator knob

    3. Remove Gas Disconnect from the keg

    4. (If using) Remove Gas Disconnect from gas inlet of kegerator

    5. (If possible) Weigh the CO2 cylinder

    6. Wait at least 12 hours

    4

    hashtag
    Test System

    After at least 12 hours, if there is a leak in the system we can determine roughly where the leak is after isolating

    1. If the weight of the CO2 cylinder has gone down noticeably, the cylinder possibly has a leak

    2. If the pressure on the regulator has gone down, the regulator, gas line or fittings may have a leak

    3. Test the keg(s) by pulling the PRV. If no CO2 is released then the keg may have a leak.

    4. Once the general location of the leak has been determined by isolation testing, perform a in order to locate the leak precisely.

    NOTE: It is safe to submerge duotight fittings and EVABarrier in water when locating leaks. Regulators cannot be safely immersed

    hashtag
    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

    3

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    Turn CO2 cylinder valve off

    Once pressurised, turn the valve handle on the CO2 cylinder clockwise until the valve is turned off

    4

    hashtag
    Check Pressure

    Wait for at least two hours then check the pressure reading on the right hand (low pressure) gauge of the regulator

    If the pressure reading has not changed (so is still reading ~20psi) then there are no leaks in the system

    If the pressure has dropped a noticeable amount then it is very likely there is a leak in the system. Use Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test to locate the leak. Note: Even if this test is passed it is quite a good idea to perform this test in any case

    hashtag
    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 40-50psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to ensure the system is properly pressurised. Note: We use a higher pressure in order to make any leaks easier to detect. Ensure there is no beer in the keg as it may become over-carbonated

    3

    hashtag
    Check For Leaks

    Using a soapy water solution (washing up liquid and water is perfect for this) in a spry bottle or simply dabbed on, check for leaks at all connections. The soapy water spray will slowly bubble if there are any leaks.

    Connections to check include:

    • The connection between the CO2 cylinder and the regulator • All duotight connections including the 8mm x FFL duotight connected to the regulator, ball lock disconnects and keg coupler, the 6.5mm x 8mm duotight reducers connected to the short shanks and the 8mm duotight tee pieces • Around ball lock disconnects and keg couplers when they are connected to the keg • Around the lid of a Cornelius keg • Make sure to remove the ball lock disconnects from the posts of the ball lock keg and check the post itself for leaks

    IMPORTANT: Do not spray any duotight fittings with StellarSan or phosphoric acid solution to perform a leak test.

    4

    hashtag
    Perform a Pressure Decay Test

    Once any leaks have been located and fixed, perform another Pressure Decay Test to ensure that the system holds pressure

    hashtag
    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

    3

    hashtag
    Isolate System

    Once the system is pressurised, isolate each part of the system.

    1. Turn valve of CO2 cylinder fully off.

    2. Fully unwind the (anti clockwise) the regulator knob

    3. Remove Gas Disconnect from the keg

    4. (If using) Remove Gas Disconnect from gas inlet of kegerator

    5. (If possible) Weigh the CO2 cylinder

    6. Wait at least 12 hours

    4

    hashtag
    Test System

    After at least 12 hours, if there is a leak in the system we can determine roughly where the leak is after isolating

    1. If the weight of the CO2 cylinder has gone down noticeably, the cylinder possibly has a leak

    2. If the pressure on the regulator has gone down, the regulator, gas line or fittings may have a leak

    3. Test the keg(s) by pulling the PRV. If no CO2 is released then the keg may have a leak.

    4. Once the general location of the leak has been determined by isolation testing, perform a in order to locate the leak precisely.

    NOTE: It is safe to submerge duotight fittings and EVABarrier in water when locating leaks. Regulators cannot be safely immersed

    hashtag
    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

    3

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    Turn CO2 cylinder valve off

    Once pressurised, turn the valve handle on the CO2 cylinder clockwise until the valve is turned off

    4

    hashtag
    Check Pressure

    Wait for at least two hours then check the pressure reading on the right hand (low pressure) gauge of the regulator

    If the pressure reading has not changed (so is still reading ~20psi) then there are no leaks in the system

    If the pressure has dropped a noticeable amount then it is very likely there is a leak in the system. Use Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test to locate the leak. Note: Even if this test is passed it is quite a good idea to perform this test in any case

    hashtag
    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 40-50psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to ensure the system is properly pressurised. Note: We use a higher pressure in order to make any leaks easier to detect. Ensure there is no beer in the keg as it may become over-carbonated

    3

    hashtag
    Check For Leaks

    Using a soapy water solution (washing up liquid and water is perfect for this) in a spry bottle or simply dabbed on, check for leaks at all connections. The soapy water spray will slowly bubble if there are any leaks.

    Connections to check include:

    • The connection between the CO2 cylinder and the regulator • All duotight connections including the 8mm x FFL duotight connected to the regulator, ball lock disconnects and keg coupler, the 6.5mm x 8mm duotight reducers connected to the short shanks and the 8mm duotight tee pieces • Around ball lock disconnects and keg couplers when they are connected to the keg • Around the lid of a Cornelius keg • Make sure to remove the ball lock disconnects from the posts of the ball lock keg and check the post itself for leaks

    IMPORTANT: Do not spray any duotight fittings with StellarSan or phosphoric acid solution to perform a leak test.

    4

    hashtag
    Perform a Pressure Decay Test

    Once any leaks have been located and fixed, perform another Pressure Decay Test to ensure that the system holds pressure

    hashtag
    Set Pressure

    Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised

    3

    hashtag
    Isolate System

    Once the system is pressurised, isolate each part of the system.

    1. Turn valve of CO2 cylinder fully off.

    2. Fully unwind the (anti clockwise) the regulator knob

    3. Remove Gas Disconnect from the keg

    4. (If using) Remove Gas Disconnect from gas inlet of kegerator

    5. (If possible) Weigh the CO2 cylinder

    6. Wait at least 12 hours

    4

    hashtag
    Test System

    After at least 12 hours, if there is a leak in the system we can determine roughly where the leak is after isolating

    1. If the weight of the CO2 cylinder has gone down noticeably, the cylinder possibly has a leak

    2. If the pressure on the regulator has gone down, the regulator, gas line or fittings may have a leak

    3. Test the keg(s) by pulling the PRV. If no CO2 is released then the keg may have a leak.

    4. Once the general location of the leak has been determined by isolation testing, perform a in order to locate the leak precisely.

    NOTE: It is safe to submerge duotight fittings and EVABarrier in water when locating leaks. Regulators cannot be safely immersed

    Please refer to this chart for a guide to appropriate beer line length for different diameter line:

    hashtag
    Beer Line Length Guide

    Internal Line DIameter
    Suggested Beer Line Length

    4mm

    1.5 metres – 2 metres

    5mm

    2 metres – 3 metres

    6.35mm

    3 metres – 4 metres

    KegLand Font Kits come with pre-cut lengths of beer and gas line. These are typically sized to allow at least 1.5m per length and thus do not need to be cut down in size.

    If cutting your own lengths of beer line it is best to start at the upper end of the suggested range and cut the beer line down in size until the desired pour speed is achieved. The faster the pour, the more likely you will get too much head/foam in the glass and also a fast pour can 'knock' carbonation out of solution resulting in a beer with too much head but no carbonation!

    Thus, for example, if starting with 4mm ID line start with a 2m length and cut down in 100mm lengths until the desired pour is achieved.

    4mm ID line is often the best choice in a short draw (kegerator) setup as it means less overall length of beer line is required which means the kegerator will be less cluttered. It also reduces the amount of beer sitting in the lines between pours.

    To see how much beer is in the line (approximately) please refer to this table:

    Internal Diameter
    Minimum length of line
    Beer per metre in line (approx)
    Total beer in line (approx)

    4mm

    1.5m

    12.5ml

    19ml

    5mm

    The downside of 4mm ID beer line is that it is quite hard to fit over barbs. We highly recommend using duotight fittings instead as they are very easy to use and install. They can also be readily swapped out if required - for example, if you decide to change the number of taps and kegs in your setup. All KegLand kegerator kits come with duotight fittings as standard.

    hashtag
    Balancing the Kegerator with CO2

    If you are not sure about temperature, carbonation levels and CO2 pressure for serving, setting the kegerator to 2­°C and the regulator to 12psi is appropriate for most situations.

    To produce the perfect pour, a number of variables need to be balanced. These include the beer line length, carbonation level of the beer and storage temperature of the keg.

    The temperature of the beer in the keg correlates directly to the carbonation level. Thus, a beer at 4°C will have less carbonation than a beer at 2°C at the same CO2 pressure.

    For most styles of beer, you should be aiming for a carbonation level of between 2.2-2.8 volumes of carbonation. 2.6 volumes of carbonation can be considered a good average level for most beers. If you are unsure of the carbonation level of the beer IE If it is a commercial keg then assume it is at 2.6 volumes of carbonation.

    To achieve a specific carbonation level refer to this Carbonation Chart and match the temperature of the kegerator to the desired carbonation level. Typically kegerators would be set to maintain a temperature between 0-3°C. Typically, 2°C is the perfect temperature for most beer styles.

    The pressure at which you dispense the beer should be slightly higher than the carbonation pressure (~10% higher).

    For example, to carbonate to 2.6 volumes at 2°C you would carbonate the beer at approximately 11psi and then serve the beer at approximately 12psi.

    The pressure at which you serve the beer should be determined as above - thus the carbonation level determines the serving level. Do not try to fix a fast or slow pour by adjusting the pressure. Too low a pressure will result in flat beer, and too high a pressure will cause over-carbonation.

    If you think that you have over carbonated your beer you may need to release the Pressure in the keg and then set it to your desired pressure according to the carbonation chart above. Do not release pressure in the keg by pulling the PRV on the regulator as this can result in liquid being pulled into the regulator and potentially causing damage to the regulator.

    If you wish to have beers of different carbonation levels in the kegerator then you can use a KL10870 dual pressure regulatorarrow-up-right to have two different serving pressures. Alternatively a KL15035 inline regulatorarrow-up-right can be installed on the gas lines which allows individual control of each line.

    hashtag
    Carbonation Chart

    This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the regulator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

    4mm ID x 8mm OD Double Wall EVABarrierarrow-up-right
    Warmer (Up) Button
  • Temperature

  • Celsius/Fahrenheit Indicator

  • Fan Indicator

  • Celsius/Fahrenheit Button

  • Fan Button

  • hashtag
    Adjusting the Set Point Temperature

    To adjust the Set Point Temperature:

    1. Press and hold the Up button for 5 seconds. The display will flash and show the current Set Point Temperature. This is a Child Safety Lock feature to prevent accidentally changing the Set Point Temperature.

    2. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify and save the Set Point Temperature. When the display stops flashing the new Set Point Temperature will be saved.

    NOTE: The Up or Down buttons must be pressed repeatedly to change the temperature. The temperature will not continue to change if the button is held down - this is a child lock feature.

    hashtag
    Change Display between Celsius and Fahrenheit

    To change the displayed temperature between Celsius and Fahrenheit press the °F/°C button. Press it again to revert to the previous units.

    hashtag
    Fan Operation

    The fan is designed for continuous operation. This will help maintain a consistent temperature. In addition, directing the font fan conduit inside the font can assist with keeping the taps and beer lines cold, which helps to minimise 'first beer foam' issues. If desired the fan can be turned on and off manually using the Fan Button. When the fan is on, the fan icon will be displayed.

    hashtag
    Temperature Calibration

    If there is a large variance between the displayed temperature (IE the temperature of the internal temperature probe and the actual internal temperature of the kegerator (as measured by a calibrated thermometer) then the Temperature Offset can be adjusted from -10°C to 10°C

    A Temperature Offset will offset the displayed temperature by the entered amount.

    Thus, if the displayed temperature is 2°C but the actual internal temperature is 4°C, an offset of +2°C is required.

    Note: In most cases this is not necessary to be adjusted. There will be minor temperature differences in the kegerator due to airflow etc.

    hashtag
    To Adjust the Offset

    1. Press and hold the Up and Down buttons for approx 5 seconds - until the display flashes SC

    2. Once the display flashes SC, release the Up or Down buttons and press the °F/°C button. This will display the current Offset Temperature (which should be 0°)

    3. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Temperature Offset (from 10°C to -10°C)

    4. Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 5 seconds)

    5. The display will revert to the current kegerator temperature. This will be different to the value displayed before the offset adjustment was made if the operation was performed correctly.

    hashtag
    Cleaning Kegerator

    The exterior of the kegerator can be cleaned with a damp microfibre cloth and a mild spray cleaner. Stainless polish may be used on stainless surfaces (such as fonts etc). StellarClean PBWarrow-up-right or StellarOxyarrow-up-right solutions may also be used instead.

    Monitor the evaporator plate (at the back of the kegerator on top of the compressor). In normal use this should not be filled with water as the heat generated by the compressor will evaporate normal levels of water. If there is excessive water in the evaporator plate or it is overflowing please refer to Troubleshooting

    The interior of the kegerator may be cleaned in the same manner. It is not uncommon for some mould to be present inside the kegerator due to the nature of use. If present, clean with a mild mould remover spray and a damp microfibre cloth. Be careful to not get mould spray on any fittings such as keg posts or disconnects.

    Display Panel Legend
    As a general rule, CUB and related breweries use D-Type Couplers, all other breweries use A-Type Couplers. S-Type Couplers are typically only used for fully imported beers.

    The following diagram shows the different ypes of spear available:

    Different commercial spear/coupler styles

    Once you have the correct coupler to suit your keg it will need to be assembled and connected to the beer and gas line.

    On a keg coupler there is an inlet for gas and an outlet for liquid. The gas inlet is positioned on a 45-degree angle and the liquid outlet is positioned vertically. It is important to connect the gas line and beer line to the correct inlet and outlet.

    Inlet/outlet | A Type Keg Coupler

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    Keg Coupler Assembly

    Inside the KegLand coupler box you will find two types of one-way check valves: a gas duck bill valve and a liquid torpedo check piece.

    The duck bill valve is used for the gas inlet and the torpedo check piece or non-return ball is used for the liquid outlet. In a homebrew setting it may only be necessary to use a check valve in the gas inlet to prevent liquid flowing back in to the regulator.

    To install the gas duck bill valve, remove the black EPDM washer from inside the 5/8” duotight fitting on the gas inlet and then insert the gas duck bill valve into the opening (as shown below). Then screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler.

    To install the liquid torpedo check piece, remove the 5/8” duotight fitting keeping the black EPDM washer in place, then insert the ball and cage (in the order shown below) and then finally screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler. NOTE: The closed part of the cage must be at the top to hold the ball in place, otherwise this can block the beer from flowing.

    hashtag
    How to use Keg Couplers

    Prior to attaching the keg coupler onto the keg make sure that a gas line is connected to the gas inlet and this gas line is connected to a regulator and a beer line is connected to the liquid outlet and this beer line is connected to a tap. Attaching the keg to the keg coupler is usually the last step of the kegerator setup.

    hashtag
    A-Type Keg Coupler

    Slide the keg coupler over the groove on the top of the keg then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg. NOTE: To fit a 50L keg with an A-type keg coupler into a kegerator or if your keg is a DIN style keg (tall skinny style) you will need to use a KL00390 Low Profile Elbow Bendarrow-up-right

    hashtag
    D-Type and S-Type Couplers

    Push the coupler into the opening of the spear and then rotate firmly clockwise to attach the coupler to the spear. Then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg.

    More detailed instructions on how to assemble and operate a keg coupler can be seen in this video:

    hashtag
    Inserting EVABarrier hose into duotight fittings

    Before connecting EVABarrier ito duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689 Tube Cutterarrow-up-right

    If the EVABarrier has been used previousLY, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.

    Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.

    Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.

    NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

    hashtag
    Removing EVABarrier Hose from duotight fittings

    To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.

    While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.

    Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.

    Using a 7 in 1 tool to remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting

    hashtag
    Using Ball Lock DIsconnects with Commercial Couplers

    KegLand Commercial Couplers are supplied with duotight fittings that make connecting EVABarrier gas and beer line quite easy.

    However, if you plan on switching couplers or wish to use an alternative connection method that allows a bit more customisation, we recommend replacing the duotight fittings with Ball Lock Posts. When adding Ball Lock Posts to a coupler setup, it is recommended to also add a KL00390 Low Profile Elbow Bendarrow-up-right which will make it easier to fit a 50L keg.

    You will also need a KL00840 Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Liquidarrow-up-right and a KL00833 Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Gasarrow-up-right which will replace the duotight fittings on the coupler and allow you to use Ball Lock Disconnects on the beer and gas line instead

    Couplers adapted for Ball Lock Posts

    Commercial Keg Couplers
    Please refer to this chart for a guide to appropriate beer line length for different diameter line:

    hashtag
    Beer Line Length Guide

    Internal Line DIameter
    Suggested Beer Line Length

    4mm

    1.5 metres – 2 metres

    5mm

    2 metres – 3 metres

    6.35mm

    3 metres – 4 metres

    KegLand Font Kits come with pre-cut lengths of beer and gas line. These are typically sized to allow at least 1.5m per length and thus do not need to be cut down in size.

    If cutting your own lengths of beer line it is best to start at the upper end of the suggested range and cut the beer line down in size until the desired pour speed is achieved. The faster the pour, the more likely you will get too much head/foam in the glass and also a fast pour can 'knock' carbonation out of solution resulting in a beer with too much head but no carbonation!

    Thus, for example, if starting with 4mm ID line start with a 2m length and cut down in 100mm lengths until the desired pour is achieved.

    4mm ID line is often the best choice in a short draw (kegerator) setup as it means less overall length of beer line is required which means the kegerator will be less cluttered. It also reduces the amount of beer sitting in the lines between pours.

    To see how much beer is in the line (approximately) please refer to this table:

    Internal Diameter
    Minimum length of line
    Beer per metre in line (approx)
    Total beer in line (approx)

    4mm

    1.5m

    12.5ml

    19ml

    5mm

    The downside of 4mm ID beer line is that it is quite hard to fit over barbs. We highly recommend using duotight fittings instead as they are very easy to use and install. They can also be readily swapped out if required - for example, if you decide to change the number of taps and kegs in your setup. All KegLand kegerator kits come with duotight fittings as standard.

    hashtag
    Balancing the Kegerator with CO2

    If you are not sure about temperature, carbonation levels and CO2 pressure for serving, setting the kegerator to 2­°C and the regulator to 12psi is appropriate for most situations.

    To produce the perfect pour, a number of variables need to be balanced. These include the beer line length, carbonation level of the beer and storage temperature of the keg.

    The temperature of the beer in the keg correlates directly to the carbonation level. Thus, a beer at 4°C will have less carbonation than a beer at 2°C at the same CO2 pressure.

    For most styles of beer, you should be aiming for a carbonation level of between 2.2-2.8 volumes of carbonation. 2.6 volumes of carbonation can be considered a good average level for most beers. If you are unsure of the carbonation level of the beer IE If it is a commercial keg then assume it is at 2.6 volumes of carbonation.

    To achieve a specific carbonation level refer to this Carbonation Chart and match the temperature of the kegerator to the desired carbonation level. Typically kegerators would be set to maintain a temperature between 0-3°C. Typically, 2°C is the perfect temperature for most beer styles.

    The pressure at which you dispense the beer should be slightly higher than the carbonation pressure (~10% higher).

    For example, to carbonate to 2.6 volumes at 2°C you would carbonate the beer at approximately 11psi and then serve the beer at approximately 12psi.

    The pressure at which you serve the beer should be determined as above - thus the carbonation level determines the serving level. Do not try to fix a fast or slow pour by adjusting the pressure. Too low a pressure will result in flat beer, and too high a pressure will cause over-carbonation.

    If you think that you have over carbonated your beer you may need to release the Pressure in the keg and then set it to your desired pressure according to the carbonation chart above. Do not release pressure in the keg by pulling the PRV on the regulator as this can result in liquid being pulled into the regulator and potentially causing damage to the regulator.

    If you wish to have beers of different carbonation levels in the kegerator then you can use a KL10870 dual pressure regulatorarrow-up-right to have two different serving pressures. Alternatively a KL15035 inline regulatorarrow-up-right can be installed on the gas lines which allows individual control of each line.

    hashtag
    Carbonation Chart

    This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

    4mm ID x 8mm OD Double Wall EVABarrierarrow-up-right
    Warmer (Up) Button
  • Temperature

  • Celsius/Fahrenheit Indicator

  • Fan Indicator

  • Celsius/Fahrenheit Button

  • Fan Button

  • hashtag
    Adjusting the Set Point Temperature

    To adjust the Set Point Temperature:

    1. Press and hold the Up button for 5 seconds. The display will flash and show the current Set Point Temperature. This is a Child Safety Lock feature to prevent accidentally changing the Set Point Temperature.

    2. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify and save the Set Point Temperature. When the display stops flashing the new Set Point Temperature will be saved.

    NOTE: The Up or Down buttons must be pressed repeatedly to change the temperature. The temperature will not continue to change if the button is held down - this is a child lock feature.

    hashtag
    Change Display between Celsius and Fahrenheit

    To change the displayed temperature between Celsius and Fahrenheit press the °F/°C button. Press it again to revert to the previous units.

    hashtag
    Fan Operation

    The fan is designed for continuous operation. This will help maintain a consistent temperature. In addition, directing the font fan conduit inside the font can assist with keeping the taps and beer lines cold, which helps to minimise 'first beer foam' issues. If desired the fan can be turned on and off manually using the Fan Button. When the fan is on, the fan icon will be displayed.

    hashtag
    Temperature Calibration

    If there is a large variance between the displayed temperature (IE the temperature of the internal temperature probe and the actual internal temperature of the kegerator (as measured by a calibrated thermometer) then the Temperature Offset can be adjusted from -10°C to 10°C

    A Temperature Offset will offset the displayed temperature by the entered amount.

    Thus, if the displayed temperature is 2°C but the actual internal temperature is 4°C, an offset of +2°C is required.

    Note: In most cases this is not necessary to be adjusted. There will be minor temperature differences in the kegerator due to airflow etc.

    hashtag
    To Adjust the Offset

    1. Press and hold the Up and Down buttons for approx 5 seconds - until the display flashes SC

    2. Once the display flashes SC, release the Up or Down buttons and press the °F/°C button. This will display the current Offset Temperature (which should be 0°)

    3. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Temperature Offset (from 10°C to -10°C)

    4. Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 5 seconds)

    5. The display will revert to the current kegerator temperature. This will be different to the value displayed before the offset adjustment was made if the operation was performed correctly.

    hashtag
    Cleaning Kegerator

    The exterior of the kegerator can be cleaned with a damp microfibre cloth and a mild spray cleaner. Stainless polish may be used on stainless surfaces (such as fonts etc). StellarClean PBWarrow-up-right or StellarOxyarrow-up-right solutions may also be used instead.

    Monitor the evaporator plate (at the back of the kegerator on top of the compressor). In normal use this should not be filled with water as the heat generated by the compressor will evaporate normal levels of water. If there is excessive water in the evaporator plate or it is overflowing please refer to Troubleshooting

    The interior of the kegerator may be cleaned in the same manner. It is not uncommon for some mould to be present inside the kegerator due to the nature of use. If present, clean with a mild mould remover spray and a damp microfibre cloth. Be careful to not get mould spray on any fittings such as keg posts or disconnects.

    Display Panel Legend
    Please refer to this chart for a guide to appropriate beer line length for different diameter line:

    hashtag
    Beer Line Length Guide

    Internal Line DIameter
    Suggested Beer Line Length

    4mm

    1.5 metres – 2 metres

    5mm

    2 metres – 3 metres

    6.35mm

    3 metres – 4 metres

    KegLand Font Kits come with pre-cut lengths of beer and gas line. These are typically sized to allow at least 1.5m per length and thus do not need to be cut down in size.

    If cutting your own lengths of beer line it is best to start at the upper end of the suggested range and cut the beer line down in size until the desired pour speed is achieved. The faster the pour, the more likely you will get too much head/foam in the glass and also a fast pour can 'knock' carbonation out of solution resulting in a beer with too much head but no carbonation!

    Thus, for example, if starting with 4mm ID line start with a 2m length and cut down in 100mm lengths until the desired pour is achieved.

    4mm ID line is often the best choice in a short draw (kegerator) setup as it means less overall length of beer line is required which means the kegerator will be less cluttered. It also reduces the amount of beer sitting in the lines between pours.

    To see how much beer is in the line (approximately) please refer to this table:

    Internal Diameter
    Minimum length of line
    Beer per metre in line (approx)
    Total beer in line (approx)

    4mm

    1.5m

    12.5ml

    19ml

    5mm

    The downside of 4mm ID beer line is that it is quite hard to fit over barbs. We highly recommend using duotight fittings instead as they are very easy to use and install. They can also be readily swapped out if required - for example, if you decide to change the number of taps and kegs in your setup. All KegLand kegerator kits come with duotight fittings as standard.

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    Balancing the Kegerator with CO2

    If you are not sure about temperature, carbonation levels and CO2 pressure for serving, setting the kegerator to 2­°C and the regulator to 12psi is appropriate for most situations.

    To produce the perfect pour, a number of variables need to be balanced. These include the beer line length, carbonation level of the beer and storage temperature of the keg.

    The temperature of the beer in the keg correlates directly to the carbonation level. Thus, a beer at 4°C will have less carbonation than a beer at 2°C at the same CO2 pressure.

    For most styles of beer, you should be aiming for a carbonation level of between 2.2-2.8 volumes of carbonation. 2.6 volumes of carbonation can be considered a good average level for most beers. If you are unsure of the carbonation level of the beer IE If it is a commercial keg then assume it is at 2.6 volumes of carbonation.

    To achieve a specific carbonation level refer to this Carbonation Chart and match the temperature of the kegerator to the desired carbonation level. Typically kegerators would be set to maintain a temperature between 0-3°C. Typically, 2°C is the perfect temperature for most beer styles.

    The pressure at which you dispense the beer should be slightly higher than the carbonation pressure (~10% higher).

    For example, to carbonate to 2.6 volumes at 2°C you would carbonate the beer at approximately 11psi and then serve the beer at approximately 12psi.

    The pressure at which you serve the beer should be determined as above - thus the carbonation level determines the serving level. Do not try to fix a fast or slow pour by adjusting the pressure. Too low a pressure will result in flat beer, and too high a pressure will cause over-carbonation.

    If you think that you have over carbonated your beer you may need to release the Pressure in the keg and then set it to your desired pressure according to the carbonation chart above. Do not release pressure in the keg by pulling the PRV on the regulator as this can result in liquid being pulled into the regulator and potentially causing damage to the regulator.

    If you wish to have beers of different carbonation levels in the kegerator then you can use a KL10870 dual pressure regulatorarrow-up-right to have two different serving pressures. Alternatively a KL15035 inline regulatorarrow-up-right can be installed on the gas lines which allows individual control of each line.

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    Carbonation Chart

    This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the regulator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

    4mm ID x 8mm OD Double Wall EVABarrierarrow-up-right
    Setup & Assembly

    Before plugging in the unit, ensure it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours after movement

    Tools Required: Philips head screwdriver and wrench or spanner

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    Preparation

    • Cut the straps securing the carton. WIth the assistance of another person, carefully lift the carton off the Grand Deluxe

    • Remove the protective foam and plastic cover

    • Remove any protective plastic from the kegerator before first use

    • Using a Philips head screwdriver, carefully unscrew the brackets that secure the Grand Deluxe to the shipping pallet

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    Install Castors

    Using the supplied bolts, carefully install the castors in each corner and the middle of the Grand Deluxe. If tiliting the unit to install the castor wheels, ensure that the unit is left upright for 24 hours before turning on.

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    Plumb Drip Tray(s)

    The contersunk drip trays are plumbed inside and outside the Grand Deluxe. The drain tube can be emptied into a bucket or similar and simply emptied periodically, or (using the external barb) this can be drained directly to a suitable floor drain.

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    Installing MK4 Regulator onto CO2 Cylinder

    • Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise

    • Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and ensure there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder

    • Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 faucet tap wrench/spanner

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    Attach EVABarrier to the regulator

    • The Mk4 regulator comes as standard with an 8mm x FFL duotight Fitting (KL06880arrow-up-right)

    • Make sure the end of the EVABarrier hose doesn’t have any burrs and is cut straight and cleanly. Push the EVABarrier hose line firmly into the duotight fitting on the regulator and ensure it is secure up to the line indicated on the 8mm x FFL duotight fitting

    • On the right hand side of the Grand Deluxe is a gas port. This will need to be drilled out (we recommend an 8mm bit for a good fit) to accomodate the gas line.

    • The gas tubing can then be fed through the gas port into the kegerator. The gas line will also need to be tee'd off if you have two or more taps (duotight tee pieces included with Font Kit)

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    Assembling Font Kits

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    Single, Double and Triple Tap Fonts

    1. Remove the cap from the top of the font and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks

    2. Feed the length of beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font

    3. Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank

    4. Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font

    5. Push each length of beer line into a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank

    6. Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower

    7. Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines

    8. Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator

    9. Attach the font to the top of the kegerator by screwing the font onto the font mounting points using four metric M5 stainless steel screws.

    10. Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a liquid ball lock disconnect or keg coupler

    11. Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

    12. Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

    TIghtening Short Shank

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    Quadruple Tap Font

    1. First, attach the font to the top of the kegerator using four metric M5 stainless steel screws. The mounting points can be found on the inside of the font and can be attached using a long screwdriver or flexible drill bit

    2. Then attach the duotight compatible short shanks, duotight 6.5mm x 8mm reducer and beer line to the font tower as described in step 11. It is easiest to attach the shanks to the font tower in the order shown

    3. Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator.

    4. Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a ball lock disconnect or keg coupler

    5. Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank

    6. Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner

    Chrome Plated Guard Rail with rubber locking feetarrow-up-right
    Wire Shelfarrow-up-right

    What's Included

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | What's Included

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    30L FermZilla All Rounder Easy-Grip Pressure Fermenter Starter Kit

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    30L & 60L FermZilla All Rounder Starter Kit with handle

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    30L & 60L FermZilla All Rounder Complete Pressure Brewing Kit

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    30L & 60L FermZilla All Rounder Hop Bong Complete Pressure Brewing Kit

    Cleaning

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Cleaning

    Cleaning is essential in order to ensure that you have trouble free fermentation and minimise the risk of infection or contamination. The recommended cleaner for the FermZilla range is StellarOxyarrow-up-right. Stellarcleanarrow-up-right may also be used however it is important to limit contact time to 30 minutes or less as prolonged contact time with StellarClean PBW can degrade PET. StellarOxy is sufficient in most situations. StellarCleam PBW can be more effective on oils (for example, if using a large amount of dry hops in the FermZilla it can be preferable to use StellarClean.

    Once cleaned the FermZilla should also be sanitised. StellarSan Sanitizerarrow-up-right is the recommended sanitiser for interior surfaces. For exterior fittings such as carbonation caps etc, we recommend spraying with Ethyl Sanitiser Sprayarrow-up-right

    NOTE: The FermZilla must be cleaned and sanitised before use.

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    Cleaning The FermZilla

    1. Carefully release all pressure from the FermZilla vessel

    2. Rinse the walls of the FermZilla vessel and the lid with cold water. A garden hose is particularly useful for rinsing and dislodging yeast/hop matter

    3. Use a non-abrasive cloth (microfibre cloths are ideal) to remove any stuck on particulate matter from the walls of the FermZilla and lid

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    Cleaning The FermZilla with a Bucket Blaster

    The is ideal for cleaning a FermZIlla.

    1. Assemble the Bucket Blaster according to the

    2. Connect the Bucket Blaster to power, ensuring a Drip Loop is used as per the instructions

    3. Fill the Bucket Blaster with water that is less than 40°C until the pump is fully submerged.

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    Cleaning the PRV

    If krausen or sticky wort has contacted the PRV you will need to clean the PRV to ensure it still activates at 35psi.

    This can be easily done by releasing the pressure in the FermZilla by pulling on the ring pull until no pressure is left in the vessel, then unscrew the PRV.

    Submerge this PRV in StellarClean solution to remove any sticky residue. Once all the residue has been removed, rinse and then sanitise the PRV with StellarSan or ethyl kill solution and screw back in to the pressure lid. The Carbonation Caps can also be removed, dismantled and cleaned in the same manner.

    It is recommended to clean the PRV and Carbonation Caps every few brews to ensure that no sticky wort build up causes issues.

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    Cleaning the BlowTie Spunding Valve

    When fermenting under pressure or if fermentation has been particularly active or vigourous krausen or beer may enter the Spunding Valve. In this situation the Spunding Valve will need to be disassembled and cleaned to ensure it operates correctly.

    Follow these steps to disassemble and clean a Spunding Valve

    1. Completely remove the yellow adjustment knob and spring

    2. Unscrew the four large screws on the face of the Blowtie Spunding Valve and the two small screws on the housing of the integrated pressure gauge

    3. Remove the integrated pressure gauge housing and the integrated pressure gauge by gently pulling up on the dial

    This process is also covered in this video

    Assembly

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Assembly

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    FermZIlla Lid Assembly

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    Lid Assembly | Caps and Airlock

    1. Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached

    2. Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring

    3. Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring

    4. Use one of the bottle caps to close of one of the holes in the lid

    5. Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve

    6. Push the three piece airlock into the silicone bung then push both parts into the remaining hole in the lid

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    Lid Assembly | With Carbonation Caps and Dip Tube (for Pressure Fermentation and Transfer)

    1. Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached

    2. Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring

    3. Thread a and a KL10788 Carbonation Cap onto each post. Do not overtighten - these are a wedge seal. Overtightening can crack the posts which will prevent a pressure seal

    *Cutting the silicone dip tube so that the ball float just rests at the base of the FermZilla tank will give the best results when transferring the finished beer

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    Lid Assembly | Hop Bong (for O2 free Dry-Hopping, Pressure Fermentation and Transfer)

    1. Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached

    2. Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring

    3. Place the thread lid ring over the lid before assembling - once the Carbonation Caps are in place this will not fit over them

    *Cutting the silicone dip tube so that the ball float just rests at the base of the FermZilla tank will give the best results when transferring the finished beer

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    FermZilla 304 Stainless Steel Handle Assembly*

    1. Insert a bolt into a hole of each of the handles

    2. Screw a nut onto the bolt. Don’t tighten this nut yet

    3. Place the handles around the collar of the FermZilla as shown in the image below.

    *Stainless Handle Assembly not included with FermZIlla Easy-Grip models

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    Floating Dip Tube Length

    Note: The (optional or part of the Pressure Brewing Pack) must be cut to the correct length before use.

    For most situations, cutting the dip tube so that it sits at the base of the FermZilla when the tube is gently curved. We want the dip tube to be able to reach the bottom of the vessel but not so long that it will rest against the sides when transferring. See images below (Tri-Conical on the left, All Rounder on the right)

    To gauge the correct length, lower the dip tube into the vessel until the desired length is acheived. Cut the dip tube where it reaches the top oif the neck of the FermZilla. Once cut to the correct length push it onto the yellow Carbonation Cap. Note: Carbonation Caps are Multi Posts, so can be used for gas or liquid. We use yellow for liquid and red (DANGER) for gas in order to be consistent and minimise the risk of error.

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    Ball Float Position

    The Ball Float can be positioned in the optional float positions on the filter, using the three hoops on the filter. The filter will sit lower in solution when the ball float is attached closer to the end - see below

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    Graduation Sticker

    The best way to accurately apply the graduation sticker to the FermZilla tank is to first fill the tank with 5L of water.

    This can be done using an accurate jug, or by weighing out 5kg water.

    Once filled with 5L water, apply the graduation sticker so that ithe 5L line is level with the water. Ensure the FermZilla is on a level surface to ensure correct placement.

    All Rounder FermZillas with pre-aqssembled Hex-Bases will need to have the graduation sticker cut to suit.

    Identifying & Fixing Leaks

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Identifying & Fixing Leaks

    If you suspect that your FermZilla has a leak it is important to properly test this.

    Leak testing is not typically viable when fermentation is in progress. It is also possible to mis-identify the FermZilla as having a leak due to factors such as CO2 dissolving into solution (during cold crash, for example) or other factors.

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    Leak Testing | 30L & 60L All Rounder FermZillas

    Unless the tank itself is cracked (in which case it will need to be replaced) then the All Rounder range can only leak from the lid or neck of the FermZilla.

    There are two ways to test and identify the location of a leak.

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    Detergent Bubble Test

    1. Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with

    2. Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)

    3. Spray or lightly sponge the entirety of the lid and neck of the FermZilla with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Ensure the lid collar, the whole of the lid and the Carbonation Caps, threads and PRV are covered.

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    Immersion Test

    1. Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with

    2. Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)

    3. Half fill a suitable bucket or container (large enough to fit the FermZilla) with cold water

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    Leak Testing | 27L & 55L Tri-Conical FermZillas

    Unless the tank itself is cracked (in which case it will need to be replaced) then the Tri-Conical range can only leak from the lid, Collection Container or Butterfly Valve assembly of the FermZilla.

    There are two ways to test and identify the location of a leak.

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    Detergent Bubble Test

    1. Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with

    2. Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)

    3. Spray or lightly sponge the entirety of the lid and neck of the FermZilla with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Ensure the lid collar, the whole of the lid and the Carbonation Caps, threads and PRV are covered.

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    Immersion Test

    1. Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with

    2. Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)

    3. Half fill a suitable bucket or container (large enough to fit the FermZilla) with cold water

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    Fixing Leaks

    Once a leak has been identified the cause of the leak needs to be determined and corrected.

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    Lid Leaks

    If the leak is from the lid itself or the neck of the FermZilla then remove the lid and inspect the threads of the FermZilla tank for cracking. If a crack is located then the tank will need to be replaced.

    Remove and insect the lid o-ring from the inner lid. Inspect the o-ring for burrs, cuts or damage. If this is damaged it will need to be replaced with a

    Inspect the threads of the and the for cracks, nicks or damage. If this is the source of the leak it will need to be replaced.

    Once parts are inspected and/or replaced as needed, ensure the o-ring and threads are lubricated with food grade lube and repeat the above tests.

    If the lid is still leaking make sure that the stainless-steel handles are not too tight. Loosen these\ handles (or remove) and then perform another leak test. The handles should only be hand tight as too tight can result in distortion of the neck of the Fermzilla

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    Collection Container and Butterfly Valves Leaks

    Inspect the threads on the Collection Container. If any cracks are found this will need to be replaced. Ensure that the threads are lubed and the Carbonation Caps are only hand tightened when replacing fittings.

    Inspect the for nicks or damage. If these are damaged they will need to be replaced.

    If no physical issues are found carefully reassemble the Collection Container and Butterfly Valve. Lubricate the beaded seals and all threads with food grade lube. Reassemble and retest the FermZilla.

    If you are still experiencing issues please send through a video to the email showing where the leak is occurring (leak test) and photos of the condition of the lid and o-ring.

    Installation Diagrams

    Series 4 User Guide | Installation Diagrams

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    Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams

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    Single Tap Commercial Keg Installation Diagrams (Ball Lock Posts & Disconnects)

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    Single Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

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    Double Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

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    Triple Tap Cornelius Ball Lock Keg Installation Diagram

    Fermentation

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Operation

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    Using The FermZilla Without Pressure

    The FermZIlla range (excluding the non pressure rated FermZilla Flat Bottom) are designed to be optimally used with CO2 pressure. They are not really designed for gravity only operation in the same manner as a fermenter with a tap.

    However, there are some workarounds that can allow this, although it is not recommended.

    Pressure Transfers

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Pressure Transfers

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    Advantages Of Pressure Transfers

    One of the main advantages of a pressurisable FermZilla is the ability to transfer the finished beer into a keg under pressure. This enables a closed transfer with neither the keg nor the FermZilla needing to be opened so that it is possible to all but completely eliminate the risk of oxidation/O2 ingress.

    This is a fantastic boon for the avid homebrewer - avoiding oxidation when transferring helps all beers, especially modern hoppy styles such as NEIPAs.

    Whilst fermenting under pressure can be performed using just the CO2 generated during fermentation, most pressure transfers will require a source of CO2 and a regulator. Options for this include a refillable

    Hydro Test Guide

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Hydro Test Guide

    This instruction sheet contains vital information that is related to safely performing a hydro test of a FermZilla tank which is past its Hydro Test date. It is vital that you read this instruction sheet from front to back before performing this test!

    THIS IS FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY

    Hydrotesting is a simple process that anyone can do at home with relatively basic tools and equipment.

    If you have any doubts in the process or do not have time to do the hydrotest then once the tank has expired you should not continue to use the tank under pressure. Replacement new tanks can be purchased from KegLand Distributors

    Tips, Tricks & Accessories

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Tips, Tricks & Accessories

    The FermZIlla range is distinguished by being pressure capable fermenters which allow fermenting and transferring beer under pressure. There are also a number of super handy accessories available to improve your beer and your brewing! The FermZilla range has a number of advantages over more traditional fermenters on the market.

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    Dispensing from a FermZilla

    As a pressure capable fermenter, the FermZilla can be treated as an all in one fermentation and dispensing unit. If the FermZilla is equipped for pressure fermentation, simply ferment and cold crash as normal. Once the cold crash is complete, there is no need to transfer to a keg.

    Hydro Test Guide

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Hydro Test Guide

    This instruction sheet contains vital information that is related to safely performing a hydro test of a FermZilla tank which is past its Hydro Test date. It is vital that you read this instruction sheet from front to back before performing this test!

    THIS IS FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY

    Hydrotesting is a simple process that anyone can do at home with relatively basic tools and equipment.

    If you have any doubts in the process or do not have time to do the hydrotest then once the tank has expired you should not continue to use the tank under pressure. Replacement new tanks can be purchased from KegLand Distributors

    Identifying & Fixing Leaks

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Identifying & Fixing Leaks

    If you suspect that your FermZilla has a leak it is important to properly test this.

    Leak testing is not typically viable when fermentation is in progress. It is also possible to mis-identify the FermZilla as having a leak due to factors such as CO2 dissolving into solution (during cold crash, for example) or other factors.

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    Leak Testing | 30L & 60L All Rounder FermZillas

    Unless the tank itself is cracked (in which case it will need to be replaced) then the All Rounder range can only leak from the lid or neck of the FermZilla.

    Tips, Tricks & Accessories

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Tips, Tricks & Accessories

    The FermZIlla range is distinguished by being pressure capable fermenters which allow fermenting and transferring beer under pressure. There are also a number of super handy accessories available to improve your beer and your brewing! The FermZilla range has a number of advantages over more traditional fermenters on the market.

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    Dispensing from a FermZilla

    As a pressure capable fermenter, the FermZilla can be treated as an all in one fermentation and dispensing unit. If the FermZilla is equipped for pressure fermentation, simply ferment and cold crash as normal. Once the cold crash is complete, there is no need to transfer to a keg.

    Important Information & Warnings

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Important Information & Warnings

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    Warnings

    This instruction sheet contains vital information that is related to the safe usage and handling of the FermZilla All Rounder.

    It is vital that you read this instruction sheet from front to back before using the product!

    THIS IS FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY WHEN USING A PRESSURISABLE FERMENTAION VESSEL

    Guide to Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Commercial Kegs & Couplers

    Prior to attaching the keg coupler onto the keg make sure that a gas line is connected to the gas inlet and this gas line is connected to a regulator and a beer line is connected to the liquid outlet and this beer line is connected to a tap. Attaching the keg to the keg coupler is usually the last step of the kegerator setup.

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    A-Type Keg Coupler

    Slide the keg coupler over the groove on the top of the keg then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg. NOTE: To fit a 50L keg with an A-type keg coupler into a kegerator or if your keg is a DIN style keg (tall skinny style) you will need to use a KL00390

    Detergent Bubble Test
    Detergent Bubble Test
    Detergent Bubble Test
    On the underside of the lid, push the silicone dip tube firmly onto the barb of the yellow Carbonation Cap*
  • Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve

  • Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring or Easy Grip Lid Ring

  • Thread a red and a yellow KL10788 Carbonation Caps onto each post. Do not overtighten - these are a wedge seal. Overtightening can crack the posts which will prevent a pressure seal
  • On the underside of the lid, push the silicone dip tube firmly onto the barb of the yellow Carbonation Cap*

  • Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve

  • Assemble the Butterfly Valve and Hop Bong. A 2" Tri-Clover clamp and beaded seal i used to secure the butterfly valve to the lid, and the Hop Bong to the butterfly valve. We recommend fitting a PRV 1881 Cap Comboarrow-up-right to the side outlet of the Hop Bong

  • Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring

  • Insert the second bolt into the remaining holes on the handle and screw the remaining nut onto this bolt
  • Tighten the two nuts while holding the bolts to prevent them from spinning. Do not overtighten as it can warp the opening of the FermZilla. The handles should be able to freely rotate around the neck of the FermZilla. If they cannot rotate then it is too tight

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    Stainless Steel Float with Silicone Dip Tube and Mesh Filterarrow-up-right
    FermZIlla Lid Assembly | Caps and Airlock
    FermZilla Lid Assembly | With Carbonation Caps and Dip Tube (for Pressure Fermentation and Transfer)
    FermZIlla Lid Assembly | Hop Bong (for O2 free Dry-Hopping, Pressure Fermentation and Transfer)
    FermZIlla Ball Float and Dip Tube Length
    Three Optional Ball Float Positions

    Examine the lid and neck for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the lid or neck of the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak

  • If any leaks are detected, please refer to Fixing Leaks

  • Invert the FermZilla into the bucket, ensuring that it is submerged past the lid
  • If a steady stream of bubbles, or slow but regular bubbles are visible, then the FermZilla may have a leak

  • If the exact position of the leak cannot be determined (if the vessel is not large enough to see the whole lid, for example) then perform a Detergent Bubble Test to identify the location of the leak

  • Examine the lid and neck for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the lid or neck of the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak

  • Spray or lightly sponge the threads/caps/Carbonation Caps of the Collection Container with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Also spray or lightly sponge the Butterfly Valve assembly and the flange and clamps of the assembly

  • Examine the bottom assembly (Collection Container, Butterfly Valve and 2" TC flange) for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak

  • If any leaks are detected, please refer to Fixing Leaks

  • Invert the FermZilla into the bucket, ensuring that it is submerged past the lid
  • After checking the lid, lower the FermZIlla into the vessel so that the bottom assembly (Collection Container, Butterfly Valve and 2" TC flange) are submerged

  • If a steady stream of bubbles, or slow but regular bubbles are visible, then the FermZilla may have a leak

  • If the exact position of the leak cannot be determined (if the vessel is not large enough to see the whole lid, for example) then perform a Detergent Bubble Test to identify the location of the leak

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    food grade lubearrow-up-right
    food grade lubearrow-up-right
    food grade lubearrow-up-right
    Replacement Lid Sealarrow-up-right
    Threaded Lid Ringarrow-up-right
    Pressure Lidarrow-up-right
    Tri-Clover beaded sealsarrow-up-right
    [email protected]envelope
    Babble and Immersion Testing | FermZilla
    Babble and Immersion Testing | FermZilla

    2m

    20ml

    40ml

    6mm

    3m

    28ml

    84ml

    2m

    20ml

    40ml

    6mm

    3m

    28ml

    84ml

    2m

    20ml

    40ml

    6mm

    3m

    28ml

    84ml

    Integrating the UnderCover Kegerator into a kitchen cabinet
    , KL11402
    , KL05333
    and KL11426
  • 1 x KL17060 Stainless Steel Float with Silicone Dip Tube and Mesh Filterarrow-up-right (You will need to cut this to your desired depth)
  • FermZilla Easy-Grip Threaded Lid Ringarrow-up-right
    Pressure Lidarrow-up-right
    Red 35psi PRVarrow-up-right
    lid o-ringarrow-up-right
    Strip Stick on Thermometerarrow-up-right
    30L arrow-up-right
    Red Carbonation Capsarrow-up-right
    Yellow Carbonation Capsarrow-up-right
    Stainless Steel Float with Silicone Dip Tube and Mesh Filterarrow-up-right
    Integrated Gauge BlowTie Kit (0-15psi) Spunding Valvearrow-up-right
    FermZilla All Rounder Tank with Metal Neck Ringarrow-up-right
    30L Tankarrow-up-right
    60L Tankarrow-up-right
    Stainless Steel Standarrow-up-right
    Stainless Steel Handle Assemblyarrow-up-right
    inclusions as above
    Red Carbonation Capsarrow-up-right
    Yellow Carbonation Capsarrow-up-right
    inclusions as above
    duotight - BlowTie 2 with Integrated Gauge 0-15psiarrow-up-right
    2 Inch Tri-Clover Hop Bong (Swedish Pumper) Pressure Pack for FermZillaarrow-up-right
    30L & 6oL FermZilla All Rounder
    Threaded Lid Ringarrow-up-right
    Pressure Lidarrow-up-right
    Red 35psi PRVarrow-up-right
    lid o-ringarrow-up-right
    Fill the FermZilla with cold water and the correct dosage of StellarOxy arrow-up-rightor StellarCleanarrow-up-right according to the instructions on the tub. After 30 minutes of soaking, gently wipe away any soiling with a soft cloth. Make sure not to use harsh scrubbers that may scratch the plastic and create ideal places for batch-ruining bacteria to hide. NOTE: If using StellarClean it is important to limit contact time to 30 minutes
  • If there is a large amount of hops or yeast coating the walls of the fermenter it is best to perform a longer overnight wash using StellarOxyarrow-up-right. Do not leave StellarClean in the vessel for longer than 30 minutes as this can damage the tank

  • Remove the lid and drain the StellarClean or StellarOxy solution and then rinse thoroughly using cold water - a garden hose is ideal for this

  • Fill the FermZilla with cold water again and add StellarSan arrow-up-rightaccording to the instructions on the bottle. Reattach the lid and shake the full FermZilla to coat all surfaces - contact time of 60 seconds is required for StellarSan to be effective. It is safe to leave StellarSan (at the correct dilution) in the tank. However, prolonged contact with StellarSan can cause harmless discolouration of the silicon dip tube

  • The the suggested correct dosage of StellarOxy arrow-up-rightor Stellarcleanarrow-up-right to the bucket. Ensure it is correctly diluted
  • Carefully release all pressure from the FermZilla vessel

  • Rinse the walls of the FermZilla vessel and the lid with cold water. A garden hose is particularly useful for rinsing and dislodging yeast/hop matter. This step is optional when using a Bucket Blaster but will help ensure thorough cleaning and speed the process up

  • Place the FermZilla upside down on the stand and insert the spray wand and jet into the opening of the vessel

  • Turn the pump on and allow the Bucket Blaster to do the rest

  • Once the FermZIlla is clean, repeat the cleaning process using clean water (no more than 40°C) to thoroughly rinse the FermZilla

  • Fill the FermZilla with cold water again and add StellarSan arrow-up-rightaccording to the instructions on the bottle. Reattach the lid and shake the full FermZilla to coat all surfaces - contact time of 60 seconds is required for StellarSan to be effective. It is safe to leave StellarSan (at the correct dilution) in the tank. However, prolonged contact with StellarSan can cause harmless discolouration of the silicon dip tube

  • Remove the face of the BlowTie Spunding Valve
  • Remove the diaphragm assembly

  • Remove the collets on the duotight fittings

  • Remove the o-rings within the duotight fittings

  • Soak all components in StellarClean solution for 30 minutes and then reassemble

  • Bucket Blasterarrow-up-right
    instructionsarrow-up-right
    hashtag
    Using The FermZilla Under Pressure

    hashtag
    Performing a Leak Test

    If you intend to use FermZilla under pressure it is strongly advised to perform a leak test prior to commencing fermentation.

    This will require access to an external pressure source such as a CO2 cylinder with a Type 30 MK4 regulator. To thoroughly pressure test the FermZilla it is best to perform a pressure decay leak test.

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    Pressure Decay Leak Test Procedure

    1. Assemble the FermZIlla according to the instructions

    2. Pressurise the empty FermZilla to a minimum of 15psi (but not more than 35psi)

    3. Turn the CO2 cylinder off and leave to sit for a few hours

    4. Check the pressure in the FermZilla. If it has decreased substantially then there may be a leak that will need to be identified before using the FermZilla under pressure

    A leak can occur from the Carbonation Caps, the lid, the butterfly valve assembly and/or the Collection Container assembly

    To locate the leak you can pressurise the FermZilla and spray with soapy water to look for bubbles. Bubbles will identify the source of the leak. You can also fill a bucket with water and submerge both the Collection Container assembly and the lid of the FermZilla under water. Again, bubbles will identify exactly where the leak is.

    Once the leak has been located, remove and inspect any fittings. If there is damage (such as a crack) then the fitting may need to be replaced. If a seal is damaged it may need to be replaced. If no damage is found then reassemble using food safe lube and retest.

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    Fermenting Under Pressure

    Pressure Fermentation is a fantastic tool to have in your fermenting arsenal. In the commercial brewing world, most beers are fermented under pressure to some degree due to the size and shape of the tanks used. This means that the pressure at the bottom of the tank is quite significant even if no pressure has been applied to the tank.

    Fermenting under pressure can have several positive benefits.

    1: It can allow elevated temperatures with no off flavours. This in turn can lead to a faster and complete fermentation.

    2: Fermenting under pressure can suppress esters and off flavours, leading to a cleaner beer in the glass.

    3: Fermenting under pressure means that the CO2 produced in large quantities during fermentation can be dissolved back into solution - thus you can achieve complete carbonation y the time the beer is ready to keg.

    NOTE: Not all beers styles are suited to pressure fermentation. Styles such as Belgian beers and Saisons rely on yeast expression and character and thus they are not really good candidates for pressure fermentation.

    To ferment under pressure you will need either the Complete Pressure Brewing Kit:

    30L FermZilla All Rounder Complete Pressure Brewing Kitarrow-up-right

    60L FermZilla All Rounder Complete Pressure Brewing Kitarrow-up-right

    Gen3 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Complete Pressure Brewing Kitarrow-up-right

    Gen3 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Complete Pressure Brewing Kitarrow-up-right

    Or you will need to purchase the following accessories for your FermZilla (NOTE: Required accessories can differ according to model. Check the product page or contact KegLand if unsure)

    2 x KL10788 Carbonation Capsarrow-up-right (we like to use Red arrow-up-rightfor Gas, Yellow arrow-up-rightfor Liquid for easy identification)

    1 x KL17060 100cm Silicone Dip Tube Kit with Yellow Weighted Filter and SS Floatarrow-up-right

    1 x KB03529 Integrated Gauge BlowTie Kit (0-15psi)arrow-up-right

    To transfer your finished beer you wll also need some spare transfer line and 2 x Ball Lock Disconnectsarrow-up-right. If you do not have spare transfer line then the Big Jumper Kitarrow-up-right is ideal

    For a comprehensive guide to Pressure Fermentation please check out this article: A Guide To Pressure Fermentationarrow-up-right

    To ferment under pressure simply replace the black plastic caps on the FermZilla lid with Carbonation Caps. Ensure the Silicon Dip Tube is cut to the correct length and connected to one of the caps using the barb.

    Instead of using the airlock we will use a Blowtie Spunding Valvearrow-up-right to control the pressure build up in the tank. Best practice is to not allow pressure build up for the first 24 hours after pitching yeast. This is because pressure can inhibit yeast growth.

    For most fermentations, we recommend setting the Spunding Valve to allow pressure to build to 10-12psi. Under no circumstances should pressure be allowed to go to or higher than 35psi.

    WARNING: If fermenting at high temperatures (above 35psi) do not also ferment under pressure. The combination of high temperature fermentation and pressure can cause failure.

    WARNING: Ensure the butterfly valve is open during active fermentation, especially when fermenting under pressure. Failure to leave this open can cause unregulated pressure to build up in the Collection Container which can cause failure. The Butterfly Valve may be closed before filling the FermZilla with wort or after fermentation has finished and the gravity reading has been stable for three consecutive days.

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    Setting The Spunding Valve To The Desired Pressure

    To set the Spunding Valve two methods can be used.

    1. Wind in the handle of the Spunding Valve (clockwise) and connect it to an empty, pressurised vessel with ball lock posts - a keg is ideal. Ensure the pressure in the keg is higher than the desired set pressure. Slowly unscrew the handle of the Spunding Valve until the desired pressure is reached. Once the Spunding Valve is just venting at the desired pressure it can be removed and put on the FermZilla

    2. Once active fermentation is underway CO2 will be produced quite quickly. You can connect the Spunding Valve to the Gas Post of the FermZIlla and turn the handle clockwise. Pressure will build up over a few hours and thus you can check the FermZilla and valve every 15 minutes and adjust until the desired pressure is reached. NOTE: It is important to constantly monitor the FermZIlla when setting pressure manually in order to ensure there is no possibility of over pressurising the tank

    When fermenting under pressure ensure that the FermZilla is depressurised prior to closing the Butterfly Valve, Removing the Collection Container or removing the FermZilla Lid

    Fermenting under pressure with Spunding Valve

    Once fermentation is finished, best practice is to cold crash the beer before transferring to your desired packaging.

    To ensure that fermentation is complete before transferring, take a gravity reading across three consecutive days. If the gravity reading is stable and in the expected range we can be sure that fermentation is completed and the beer is ready!

    As a pressure capable fermenter, the FermZilla range is the ideal fermenter for transferring into kegs. This can be easily done with no mess, fuss or risk of oxidation using a pressure transfer once the beer is finished.

    or
    and a
    . If space is limited a
    cylinder and a
    are great options.

    There are two easy ways to transfer your beer under pressure. The first step is to sanitise and purge the keg to be filled with CO2.

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    Sanitising and Purging Kegs

    1. Once the keg has been cleaned and rinsed, completely fill the keg with sanitiser solution such as StellarSan diluted to the correct ratio

    2. Invert the keg for 120 seconds, then put the right way up to make sure that all surfaces some into contact with the sanitiser

    3. Connect the keg to CO2 at around 10psi. Pull the PRV a couple of times to purge the small amount of headspace

    4. Next we need to push the sanitiser out of the keg. Ideally connect the full keg to an empty, clean keg. Connect the two Liquid (Out) Posts with a short length of line. Put a Spunding Valve on the Gas Post of the empty keg. Use this to vent pressure in the empty keg at around 5psi. The pressure differential will push the sanitiser from the full keg to the empty keg

    5. If you do not have an empty keg then the sanitiser can be transferred into any vessel of around 20L, or simply emptied into the sink.

    6. Once the transfer is complete, the empty keg will now be sanitised and purged of O2. It will also have some residual pressure which is ideal for transferring from the FermZilla

    A FOBS (Foam On Beer) detectorarrow-up-right can also be repurposed to detect sanitiser rather than beer - check out this video. It is a great way to automate this process.

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    Transferring Finished Beer Under Pressure

    Before transferring the finished beer into a keg, we want to ensure that it is completely fermented. Taking a gravity reading over three consecutive is is the best way to ensure this. If the reading is stable for three consecutive days we can be sure that the fermentation is finished.

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    Cold Crashing Before Transfer

    Before transferring the completed beer, it is ideal to cold crash the beer.

    Cold crashing is quite simple if you have temperature control for your FermZilla. Simply set the temperature to -1-2°C (or as low as you can if it will not go this low). Once the desired cold crash temperature has been achieved, leave the finished beer at this temperature for 2-4 days. This will 'cold crash' the finished beer. Cold crashing helps a lot with getting solids such as hop matter, yeast and other solids in suspension to drop out of the beer. It also helps to compact the trub in the fermenter. Cold crashing is therefore very beneficial for transferring a clean beer into the keg, minimising trub in the keg.

    If you cannot cold crash that is OK. The integrated filter on the floating dip tube will assist greatly in preventing hop matter etc from being transferred into the keg.

    IMPORTANT: Before cold crashing, you must add pressure to the FermZilla. Positive pressure of approximately 10psi is required. before cold crashing. This is because as the beer gets chilled, CO2 in the headspace will be absorbed into solution. If there is not sufficient pressure (CO2) in the head space, this can cause negative pressure in the FermZilla which can cause the tank to be deformed once the atmospheric pressure is higher than the internal pressure.

    Ideally, hooking the FermZilla to CO2 at around 10psi when cold crashing will prevent this, and also help to carbonate the beer before it is transferred.

    To transfer the finished beer using pressure you will need a transfer line (a short length of line with a liquid disconnect on each end) and a Spunding Valve, as well as a purged, empty keg.

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    Pressure Transfer

    Following the guide to Sanitising and Purging Kegs, you will have a sanitised, O2 free keg with a small amount of residual pressure in it.

    1. Connect the FermZilla to a regulated source of CO2. Set the regulator to ~10psi

    2. Turn the handle of the Spunding Valve clockwise (so that it does not let out pressure). Put the Spunding Valve on the Gas In Post of the sanitised keg

    3. Adjust the Spunding Valve until it is venting at a pressure slightly lower than the pressure in the FermZilla (~7psi). Starting the transfer with a small pressure difference will help to minimise foaming issues

    4. Connect the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to the Liquid Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the )

    5. The pressure differential will 'push' the finished beer into the keg

    6. Once the transfer is under way, you can adjust the Spunding Valve down to about 5psi. The greater pressure differential will speed up the transfer process

    7. Once the transfer is complete, disconnect the transfer line from both posts. Remove the Spunding Valve from the keg. Remove the gas line from the FermZilla

    8. Congratulations! The finished beer is now kegged and ready to go. It should now be p[laced in a kegerator or similar ready for dispensing. If it was fermented and cold crashed under pressure then it will already be partially or completely carbonated. Connect the keg to CO2 at 10-12psi to complete carbonation if required

    Pressure Transfer Setup | FermZilla

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    Closed Loop (Gravity) Transfer

    Another method of pressure transferring the completed beer is a Closed Loop Gravity Transfer. This method is very useful if you wish to do a completely closed transfer (whereby no CO2 is vented during the process). This can be beneficial for super oppy beers as no hop aroma will be 'blown off' during the transfer process.

    Another benefit of a closed transfer is that no additional CO2 is required - the residual pressure in the FermZIlla should be sufficient.

    A Closed Loop transfer is effectively a siphon. Thus, the keg must be lower than the FermZilla for the transfer to complete.

    Following the guide to Sanitising and Purging Kegs, you will have a sanitised, O2 free keg with a small amount of residual pressure in it.

    1. Ensure that there is at least 5psi (ideally ~10psi) pressure in the FermZilla

    2. Position the FermZilla and the keg so that the FermZilla is higher than the keg

    3. Connect the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to the Liquid Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the Big Jumperarrow-up-right)

    4. Provided there is less pressure in the keg than the FermZilla, beer will start to transfer. If beer does not begin to flow, pull the PRV of the keg to lower the pressure in the keg until the transfer begins

    5. Once the transfer is underway, connect the Gas Post of the FermZilla to the Gas Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the ). This will keep the pressures equalised between the FermZilla and the keg, enabled the transfer to complete as a siphon

    6. Once the transfer is complete, disconnect the transfer line from both liquid posts. Remove the gas line from the FermZilla and the keg

    7. Congratulations! The finished beer is now kegged and ready to go. It should now be p[laced in a kegerator or similar ready for dispensing. If it was fermented and cold crashed under pressure then it will already be partially or completely carbonated. Connect the keg to CO2 at 10-12psi to complete carbonation if required

    Closed Loop Transfer | FermZilla

    NOTE: There are several ways to either stop the transfer automatically once the keg is full, or alternatively to monitor the process so that it is easy to determine when to stop the transfer.

    A duotight Flow Stopperarrow-up-right is an easy and inexpensive way to automatically stop the transfer. Simply place the Flow Stopper on the Gas Post of the target keg (you can use a longish length of line in order to add a Spunding Valve to this as well).

    A simple method is to place the keg on Digital Home Brew Scalesarrow-up-right before filling. TARE the weright to zero once everything is assembled, and stop filling at around 18.5kg - this will ensure the keg is filled below the gas dip tube.

    If the beer has been cold crashed prior to transfer, then you can use the condensation line on the keg as a guide.

    For a more precise guide for transferring cold crashed beer, a Cold Activated Keg Filler Stickerarrow-up-right is a great way to help gauge fill volume during the transfer.

    2.6kgarrow-up-right
    6kg CO2 Cylinderarrow-up-right
    MK5 Regulatorarrow-up-right
    KegLand Branded Sodastreamarrow-up-right
    Mini 360 regulatorarrow-up-right
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    Determining if your tank requires hydro testing

    All FermZillas have a Date Stamp on the tank body as below

    Date Stamp | FermZilla

    This date is the date after which the tank needs to be Hydro Tested before using under pressure.

    NOTE: If you are not using the FermZilla under pressure then it does not require hydrotesting.

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    IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT THE DATE STAMP

    The Date Stamp on the FermZilla tank is 24 months after the manufacture date. This is a good guide as to when the tank requires hydro testing.

    However, if the FermZilla has been correctly stored in the original, unopened carton then it is not required to Hydro Test until 24 months from the date of purchase.

    The tank will remain in 'as new' condition when stored correctly in an unopened carton as it is not exposed to UV or chemicals etc.

    Please make a note of the date of purchase of the FermZilla and ensure it is Hydro Tested 24 months from the date of purchase

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    Hydro Testing Process

    Do not perform the Hydro Test with an empty tank

    Fill the tank with water to the brim before testing.

    The reason it is important to fill the tank with water when testing is because water is incompressible. This means in the event that the tank fails the test the resulting rupture will be safe. If the tank is filled with compressible gas such as CO2 then the failure will have significantly more stored energy and the resultant failure can be much more dangerous.

    Thus it is important to completely fill the tank with water prior to testing

    1. Assemble the FermZilla (if required). Fill the tank to the brim with water

    2. Remove the red 2.5bar PRV from the FermZilla lid and replace with a grey 6.5bar PRVarrow-up-right. NOTE: Ensure this PRV is swapped back for the red 2.5bar PRV immediately the test is complete. DO not operate the FermZilla with the incorrect PRV installed

    3. Once the FermZilla is filled with water and the lid in place, slowly apply pressure to the tank. It is important to apply pressure in a controlled manner. There are two methods to apply pressure in a controlled manner

    Fill FermZilla tank completely with water prior to testing

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    Mains Water Pressure Testing

    1. Connect mains pressure water to a length of 6.35mm EVABarrier with an inline regulator and liquid disconnect. You can use a KL13888 duotight - 6.35mm (1/4'') x 3/4 inch BSP Thread Femalearrow-up-right to connect to a 3/4" tap outlet, or a KL17756 6.35mm Diverter Valve 1/2" BSParrow-up-right to connect to a standard under sink outlet

    2. Use a short length of KL42789 Black Lightshield 6.35mm EVABarrierarrow-up-right, a KL26918 6.35mm Inline Regulatorarrow-up-right and a KL24235 6.35mm duotight Disconnect - Liquidarrow-up-right to make a mains connected water line with inline regulation and a liquid disconnect to attach to the liquid post on the FermZilla

    3. Connect a KL11532 duotight 0-150psi push in gaugearrow-up-right to a KL20756 8mm duotight Disconnect - Gasarrow-up-right. This will be used on the FermZilla to accurately measure the pressure in the tank

    4. Ensure the Inline Regulator is set to 0psi - the yellow knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise. Connect the liquid disconnect to the liquid post of the FermZilla.

    5. Connect the gas disconnect and gauge to the gas post of the FermZIlla

    6. Slowly turn the yellow handle of the Inline Regulator until the pressure reaches 4 bar (60psi). Confirm this pressure on the gauge attached to the gas post of the FermZilla. Note: It is normal for the FermZilla tank to swell in size and stretch during the hydro test

    7. Once 4 bar has been reached, stop increasing pressure. Leave everything connected for 1 minute. Remove the liquid disconnect (connecting the tank to mains pressure water). Inspect the FermZilla tank. If the tank has not failed then the FermZilla has been successfully passed the Hydro Test and does not need testing for a further 24 months

    8. If there are any visible cracks or damage, or if the tank ruptures then the Hydro Test has failed and the tank will need to be replaced

    Hydro Test - Mains Water Setup

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    Water Pressure Transfer from Cornelius Keg

    1. Fill a Cornelius Keg and the FermZilla to be tested completely with water

    2. Connect the Cornelius Keg to a regulated gas source such as a KL01489 2.6kg arrow-up-rightor KL01496 6kg CO2 cylinderarrow-up-right and and a KL07429 MK4 Type 30 Regulatorarrow-up-right

    3. Ensure the line out from the regulator is terminated with a gas disconnect such as a KL20756 8mm duotight Disconnect - Gasarrow-up-right

    4. Ensure the regulator is set to 0psi - the knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise

    5. Daisy chain the Cornelius Keg from the Liquid (Out) Post of the keg to the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to be tested using a length of EVABarrier and 2 x Liquid Disconnects. A length of KL06224 and 2 x KL20749 is ideal for this

    6. Connect a KL11532 to a KL20756 . This will be used on the FermZilla to accurately measure the pressure in the tank. Connect the gas disconnect and gauge to the gas post of the FermZIlla

    7. Slowly and in a controlled manner adjust the regulator until the pressure reaches 4 bar (60psi). Confirm this pressure on the gauge attached to the gas post of the FermZilla. Ensure that water is being transferred into the FermZilla, not gas. Note: It is normal for the FermZilla tank to swell in size and stretch during the hydro test

    8. Once 4 bar has been reached, stop increasing pressure. Leave everything connected for 1 minute. Remove the liquid disconnect connect the keg to the FermZIlla. Inspect the FermZilla tank. If the tank has not failed then the FermZilla has been successfully passed the Hydro Test and does not need testing for a further 24 months

    9. If there are any visible cracks or damage, or if the tank ruptures then the Hydro Test has failed and the tank will need to be replaced

    Hydro Test - Cornelius Keg Setup
    Simply connect the FermZilla to CO2 using the Gas Post, and connect a tap of some kind to the Liquid Post. Once connected (and the beer is chilled and carbonated) you are good to go!

    Recommended taps include the NukaTap Mini FC Disconnect Kitarrow-up-right, the Nylon Composite Pluto Gunarrow-up-right and the duo-Bronco/duo-Picnic Party Taparrow-up-right. These are all great options to have to hand for pulling samples during fermentation (to check gravity etc).

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    Yeast Harvesting (Tri-Conical series)

    To harvest the yeast from a fermentation it is as simple as waiting for fermentation to be complete. Ideally perform a cold crash to cause yeast in suspension to flocculate out. Once fermentation is done and the beer is transferred, simply close the Butterfly Valve and remove the Collection Container.

    The Collection Container can then simply be capped and placed in the fridge to be pitched into the next brew. Otherwise the yeast and trub can be carefully decanted in sanitised jars or similar and stored in the fridge until ready to use. Yeast harvested and stored in this manner will remain viable for approximately one month.

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    Low Oxygen Dry Hopping using the Collection Container

    It is always best to minimise introducing oxygen (O2) into the beer once fermentation is underway. Oxidation can cause off flavours (typically described as a 'cardboard' taste). Oxidation can also seriously impact hop flavour and aroma, resulting in a loss of both flavour and aroma. Low Oxygen Dry Hopping procedures are great for hoppy beer styles such as NEIPAs, XPAs, Pale Ales etc.

    The FermZilla Tri-conical offer low oxygen dry hopping capability with very few extra required parts and is quite easy and quick to introduce into your normal fermentation schedule.

    To use the Collection Container for LODO (Low Dissolved Oxygen) dry hopping replace once of the black PCO1881 caps with a KL10788 Carbonation Caparrow-up-right. This allows you to easily connect CO2 to the collection container. Use the other post to attach a Red PRV 1881 Cap Comboarrow-up-right.

    To use the Collection Container for dry hopping, it must first be cleaned and sanitised. It is quite useful to have a separate Collection Containerarrow-up-right for this purpose. These instructions assume that the Collection Container has already been removed, cleaned and sanitised and the Butterfly Valve is closed on the FermZilla Tri-Conical.

    1. Place the required dry hops in the sanitised Collection Container

    2. Attach the Collection Container to the the 3" Butterfly Valve at the base of the FermZilla Tri-Conical

    3. Set your regulator to between 5-10psi and connect the gas ball lock disconnect to the Carbonation Cap on the Collection Container

    4. While connected and pressurised, pull the PRV on the Collection Container several times. This will purge and refill the container with CO2, effectively displacing the O2 in the Collection Container

    5. Once purged, disconnect the CO2 and open the Butterfly Valve to introduce the hops into the FermZilla tank

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    The Hop Bong

    The Hop Bong is a fantastic way to dry hop in a FermZilla without introducing O2 (LODO). The Hop Bong is suitable for all pressure capable FermZillas (the Tri-Conical and the All Rounder). It can be purchased as a standalone unitarrow-up-right (if you have the required Carbonation Caps, dip tube etc) or as a complete kitarrow-up-right.

    The Hop Bong assembly can be attached at the start of fermentation. It can also be added to the lid at any stage - simply keep the 2" Butterfly Valve closed until the Hop Bong has been attached.

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    LODO Dry Hopping with the Hop Bong

    1. Remove the lid of the Hop Bong by undoing the 2" Tri Clover clamp

    2. Add the required dry hop to the Hop Bong

    3. Replace the lid on the Hop Bong and secure the 2" Tri-Clover clamp

    4. Set your regulator to between 5-10psi and connect the gas ball lock disconnect to the Carbonation Cap on the Hop Bong

    5. While connected and pressurised, pull the PRV on the lid of the Hop Bong several times. This will purge and refill the container with CO2, effectively displacing the O2 in the Hop Bong

    6. Once purged, disconnect the CO2 and open the Butterfly Valve to introduce the hops into the FermZilla tank

    For more information and detailed instructions for the Hop Bong, please refer to this video

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    RAPT Pill Hydrometer

    The RAPT Pill Hydrometer & Thermometerarrow-up-right is the perfect accessory for the FermZilla range! Unlike stainless fermenters, the FermZilla is made of transparent PET. PET is easy to clean, sanitary and also transparent to WiFi signals, making the use of a network capable floating hydrometer such as the RAPT Pill very simple. Using the RAPT Pill connected to your home network (or to another RAPT device such as a RAPT Temperature Controllerarrow-up-right via Bluetooth) you can get near real time gravity and temperature readings from directly inside the FermZilla! This unlocks powerful and easy fermentation and temperature control and is a highly recommended upgrade.

    More more information please refer to this video

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    RAPT Fermentation Chamber

    The RAPT - Fermentation Chamberarrow-up-right is the most capable Fermentation Chamber on the market. It was designed from the ground up to hold 2 x 30L FermZilla All Rounders, 1 x 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical (with or without Hop Bong) or 1 x FermZilla 60L All Rounder or 55L Tri-Conical. With built in heating and cooling, WiFi and Bluetooth* connectivity and connection and control via the RAPT ecosystem it is the easiest and most advanced method of fermentation control on the market!

    *Bluetooth connectivity works only in conjunction with a RAPT Pill Hydrometer & Thermometerarrow-up-right

    For more information, please refer to this video

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    Temperature Control with Glycol

    The FermZilla range can also be used in conjunction with a glycol chiller such as the G20 - Glycol Chillerarrow-up-right

    You will need to install a thermowell arrow-up-rightfor the temperature probe and also a cooling coil such as the Temp Twisterarrow-up-right. All FermZilla lids have ports marked for drilling in order to fit these accessories. Otherwise, a pre-drilled lidarrow-up-right can also be purchased. These can also be installed in the 2" TC Pressure Lidarrow-up-right which enables the use of the Hop Bong in conjunction with a glycol setup.

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    No need to do a whirlpool in the kettle

    Due to the shape of the FermZIlla range (the conical shape of the Tri-Conical FermZilla and the rounded base of the All Rounder) you can skip the whirlpool in the kettle and just transfer everything! The hops and trub will simply settle out. You can then use the Collection Container of the Tri-Conical to dump this (if desired). In addition, when transferring under pressure, we are only drawing clear beer from the surface during the process, greatly minimising the amount of solids that can make their way into the keg.

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    Using the Collection Container for Samples and Bottling (Tri-Conical series)

    By attaching a ball lock post to the bottom of the Collection Container, you now have a variety of removable options at your fingertips.

    You can connect a KL21821 sanitised duo-Bronco / duo-Picnic Party Tap mounted to a KL24235 6.35mm duotight Disconnectarrow-up-right to allow to take hydrometer samples. Simply slip some 10mm hose over the end of the tap and you now have a simple bottling gun!

    Just make sure the FermZilla is elevated so that gravity can carry the beer down to the bottle. You may need to remove some of the trub and yeast sediment before using this method to get clear beer. Crash chilling after fermentation will make the trub compact faster.

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    Determining if your tank requires hydro testing

    All FermZillas have a Date Stamp on the tank body as below

    Date Stamp | FermZilla

    This date is the date after which the tank needs to be Hydro Tested before using under pressure.

    NOTE: If you are not using the FermZilla under pressure then it does not require hydrotesting.

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    IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT THE DATE STAMP

    The Date Stamp on the FermZilla tank is 24 months after the manufacture date. This is a good guide as to when the tank requires hydro testing.

    However, if the FermZilla has been correctly stored in the original, unopened carton then it is not required to Hydro Test until 24 months from the date of purchase.

    The tank will remain in 'as new' condition when stored correctly in an unopened carton as it is not exposed to UV or chemicals etc.

    Please make a note of the date of purchase of the FermZilla and ensure it is Hydro Tested 24 months from the date of purchase

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    Hydro Testing Process

    Do not perform the Hydro Test with an empty tank

    Fill the tank with water to the brim before testing.

    The reason it is important to fill the tank with water when testing is because water is incompressible. This means in the event that the tank fails the test the resulting rupture will be safe. If the tank is filled with compressible gas such as CO2 then the failure will have significantly more stored energy and the resultant failure can be much more dangerous.

    Thus it is important to completely fill the tank with water prior to testing

    1. Assemble the FermZilla (if required). Fill the tank to the brim with water

    2. Remove the red 2.5bar PRV from the FermZilla lid and replace with a grey 6.5bar PRVarrow-up-right. NOTE: Ensure this PRV is swapped back for the red 2.5bar PRV immediately the test is complete. DO not operate the FermZilla with the incorrect PRV installed

    3. Once the FermZilla is filled with water and the lid in place, slowly apply pressure to the tank. It is important to apply pressure in a controlled manner. There are two methods to apply pressure in a controlled manner

    Fill FermZilla tank completely with water prior to testing

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    Mains Water Pressure Testing

    1. Connect mains pressure water to a length of 6.35mm EVABarrier with an inline regulator and liquid disconnect. You can use a KL13888 duotight - 6.35mm (1/4'') x 3/4 inch BSP Thread Femalearrow-up-right to connect to a 3/4" tap outlet, or a KL17756 6.35mm Diverter Valve 1/2" BSParrow-up-right to connect to a standard under sink outlet

    2. Use a short length of KL42789 Black Lightshield 6.35mm EVABarrierarrow-up-right, a KL26918 6.35mm Inline Regulatorarrow-up-right and a KL24235 6.35mm duotight Disconnect - Liquidarrow-up-right to make a mains connected water line with inline regulation and a liquid disconnect to attach to the liquid post on the FermZilla

    3. Connect a KL11532 duotight 0-150psi push in gaugearrow-up-right to a KL20756 8mm duotight Disconnect - Gasarrow-up-right. This will be used on the FermZilla to accurately measure the pressure in the tank

    4. Ensure the Inline Regulator is set to 0psi - the yellow knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise. Connect the liquid disconnect to the liquid post of the FermZilla.

    5. Connect the gas disconnect and gauge to the gas post of the FermZIlla

    6. Slowly turn the yellow handle of the Inline Regulator until the pressure reaches 4 bar (60psi). Confirm this pressure on the gauge attached to the gas post of the FermZilla. Note: It is normal for the FermZilla tank to swell in size and stretch during the hydro test

    7. Once 4 bar has been reached, stop increasing pressure. Leave everything connected for 1 minute. Remove the liquid disconnect (connecting the tank to mains pressure water). Inspect the FermZilla tank. If the tank has not failed then the FermZilla has been successfully passed the Hydro Test and does not need testing for a further 24 months

    8. If there are any visible cracks or damage, or if the tank ruptures then the Hydro Test has failed and the tank will need to be replaced

    Hydro Test - Mains Water Setup

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    Water Pressure Transfer from Cornelius Keg

    1. Fill a Cornelius Keg and the FermZilla to be tested completely with water

    2. Connect the Cornelius Keg to a regulated gas source such as a KL01489 2.6kg arrow-up-rightor KL01496 6kg CO2 cylinderarrow-up-right and and a KL07429 MK4 Type 30 Regulatorarrow-up-right

    3. Ensure the line out from the regulator is terminated with a gas disconnect such as a KL20756 8mm duotight Disconnect - Gasarrow-up-right

    4. Ensure the regulator is set to 0psi - the knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise

    5. Daisy chain the Cornelius Keg from the Liquid (Out) Post of the keg to the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to be tested using a length of EVABarrier and 2 x Liquid Disconnects. A length of KL06224 and 2 x KL20749 is ideal for this

    6. Connect a KL11532 to a KL20756 . This will be used on the FermZilla to accurately measure the pressure in the tank. Connect the gas disconnect and gauge to the gas post of the FermZIlla

    7. Slowly and in a controlled manner adjust the regulator until the pressure reaches 4 bar (60psi). Confirm this pressure on the gauge attached to the gas post of the FermZilla. Ensure that water is being transferred into the FermZilla, not gas. Note: It is normal for the FermZilla tank to swell in size and stretch during the hydro test

    8. Once 4 bar has been reached, stop increasing pressure. Leave everything connected for 1 minute. Remove the liquid disconnect connect the keg to the FermZIlla. Inspect the FermZilla tank. If the tank has not failed then the FermZilla has been successfully passed the Hydro Test and does not need testing for a further 24 months

    9. If there are any visible cracks or damage, or if the tank ruptures then the Hydro Test has failed and the tank will need to be replaced

    Hydro Test - Cornelius Keg Setup

    There are two ways to test and identify the location of a leak.

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    Detergent Bubble Test

    1. Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with food grade lubearrow-up-right

    2. Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)

    3. Spray or lightly sponge the entirety of the lid and neck of the FermZilla with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Ensure the lid collar, the whole of the lid and the Carbonation Caps, threads and PRV are covered.

    4. Examine the lid and neck for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the lid or neck of the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak

    5. If any leaks are detected, please refer to

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    Immersion Test

    1. Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with food grade lubearrow-up-right

    2. Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)

    3. Half fill a suitable bucket or container (large enough to fit the FermZilla) with cold water

    4. Invert the FermZilla into the bucket, ensuring that it is submerged past the lid

    5. If a steady stream of bubbles, or slow but regular bubbles are visible, then the FermZilla may have a leak

    6. If the exact position of the leak cannot be determined (if the vessel is not large enough to see the whole lid, for example) then perform a to identify the location of the leak

    Babble and Immersion Testing | FermZilla

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    Leak Testing | 27L & 55L Tri-Conical FermZillas

    Unless the tank itself is cracked (in which case it will need to be replaced) then the Tri-Conical range can only leak from the lid, Collection Container or Butterfly Valve assembly of the FermZilla.

    There are two ways to test and identify the location of a leak.

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    Detergent Bubble Test

    1. Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with food grade lubearrow-up-right

    2. Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)

    3. Spray or lightly sponge the entirety of the lid and neck of the FermZilla with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Ensure the lid collar, the whole of the lid and the Carbonation Caps, threads and PRV are covered.

    4. Examine the lid and neck for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the lid or neck of the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak

    5. Spray or lightly sponge the threads/caps/Carbonation Caps of the Collection Container with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Also spray or lightly sponge the Butterfly Valve assembly and the flange and clamps of the assembly

    6. Examine the bottom assembly (Collection Container, Butterfly Valve and 2" TC flange) for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak

    7. If any leaks are detected, please refer to

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    Immersion Test

    1. Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with food grade lubearrow-up-right

    2. Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)

    3. Half fill a suitable bucket or container (large enough to fit the FermZilla) with cold water

    4. Invert the FermZilla into the bucket, ensuring that it is submerged past the lid

    5. After checking the lid, lower the FermZIlla into the vessel so that the bottom assembly (Collection Container, Butterfly Valve and 2" TC flange) are submerged

    6. If a steady stream of bubbles, or slow but regular bubbles are visible, then the FermZilla may have a leak

    7. If the exact position of the leak cannot be determined (if the vessel is not large enough to see the whole lid, for example) then perform a to identify the location of the leak

    Babble and Immersion Testing | FermZilla

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    Fixing Leaks

    Once a leak has been identified the cause of the leak needs to be determined and corrected.

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    Lid Leaks

    If the leak is from the lid itself or the neck of the FermZilla then remove the lid and inspect the threads of the FermZilla tank for cracking. If a crack is located then the tank will need to be replaced.

    Remove and insect the lid o-ring from the inner lid. Inspect the o-ring for burrs, cuts or damage. If this is damaged it will need to be replaced with a Replacement Lid Sealarrow-up-right

    Inspect the threads of the Threaded Lid Ringarrow-up-right and the Pressure Lidarrow-up-right for cracks, nicks or damage. If this is the source of the leak it will need to be replaced.

    Once parts are inspected and/or replaced as needed, ensure the o-ring and threads are lubricated with food grade lube and repeat the above tests.

    If the lid is still leaking make sure that the stainless-steel handles are not too tight. Loosen these\ handles (or remove) and then perform another leak test. The handles should only be hand tight as too tight can result in distortion of the neck of the Fermzilla

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    Collection Container and Butterfly Valves Leaks

    Inspect the threads on the Collection Container. If any cracks are found this will need to be replaced. Ensure that the threads are lubed and the Carbonation Caps are only hand tightened when replacing fittings.

    Inspect the Tri-Clover beaded sealsarrow-up-right for nicks or damage. If these are damaged they will need to be replaced.

    If no physical issues are found carefully reassemble the Collection Container and Butterfly Valve. Lubricate the beaded seals and all threads with food grade lube. Reassemble and retest the FermZilla.

    If you are still experiencing issues please send through a video to the email [email protected]envelope showing where the leak is occurring (leak test) and photos of the condition of the lid and o-ring.

    Simply connect the FermZilla to CO2 using the Gas Post, and connect a tap of some kind to the Liquid Post. Once connected (and the beer is chilled and carbonated) you are good to go!

    Recommended taps include the NukaTap Mini FC Disconnect Kitarrow-up-right, the Nylon Composite Pluto Gunarrow-up-right and the duo-Bronco/duo-Picnic Party Taparrow-up-right. These are all great options to have to hand for pulling samples during fermentation (to check gravity etc).

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    The Hop Bong

    The Hop Bong is a fantastic way to dry hop in a FermZilla without introducing O2 (LODO). The Hop Bong is suitable for all pressure capable FermZillas (the Tri-Conical and the All Rounder). It can be purchased as a standalone unitarrow-up-right (if you have the required Carbonation Caps, dip tube etc) or as a complete kitarrow-up-right.

    The Hop Bong assembly can be attached at the start of fermentation. It can also be added to the lid at any stage - simply keep the 2" Butterfly Valve closed until the Hop Bong has been attached.

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    LODO Dry Hopping with the Hop Bong

    1. Remove the lid of the Hop Bong by undoing the 2" Tri Clover clamp

    2. Add the required dry hop to the Hop Bong

    3. Replace the lid on the Hop Bong and secure the 2" Tri-Clover clamp

    4. Set your regulator to between 5-10psi and connect the gas ball lock disconnect to the Carbonation Cap on the Hop Bong

    5. While connected and pressurised, pull the PRV on the lid of the Hop Bong several times. This will purge and refill the container with CO2, effectively displacing the O2 in the Hop Bong

    6. Once purged, disconnect the CO2 and open the Butterfly Valve to introduce the hops into the FermZilla tank

    For more information and detailed instructions for the Hop Bong, please refer to this video

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    RAPT Pill Hydrometer

    The RAPT Pill Hydrometer & Thermometerarrow-up-right is the perfect accessory for the FermZilla range! Unlike stainless fermenters, the FermZilla is made of transparent PET. PET is easy to clean, sanitary and also transparent to WiFi signals, making the use of a network capable floating hydrometer such as the RAPT Pill very simple. Using the RAPT Pill connected to your home network (or to another RAPT device such as a RAPT Temperature Controllerarrow-up-right via Bluetooth) you can get near real time gravity and temperature readings from directly inside the FermZilla! This unlocks powerful and easy fermentation and temperature control and is a highly recommended upgrade.

    For more information , please refer to this video

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    RAPT Fermentation Chamber

    The RAPT - Fermentation Chamberarrow-up-right is the most capable Fermentation Chamber on the market. It was designed from the ground up to hold 2 x 30L FermZilla All Rounders, 1 x 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical (with or without Hop Bong) or 1 x FermZilla 60L All Rounder or 55L Tri-Conical. With built in heating and cooling, WiFi and Bluetooth* connectivity and connection and control via the RAPT ecosystem it is the easiest and most advanced method of fermentation control on the market!

    *Bluetooth connectivity works only in conjunction with a RAPT Pill Hydrometer & Thermometerarrow-up-right

    For more information, please refer to this video

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    Temperature Control with Glycol

    The FermZilla range can also be used in conjunction with a glycol chiller such as the G20 - Glycol Chillerarrow-up-right

    You will need to install a thermowell arrow-up-rightfor the temperature probe and also a cooling coil such as the Temp Twisterarrow-up-right. All FermZilla lids have ports marked for drilling in order to fit these accessories. Otherwise, a pre-drilled lidarrow-up-right can also be purchased. These can also be installed in the 2" TC Pressure Lidarrow-up-right which enables the use of the Hop Bong in conjunction with a glycol setup.

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    No need to do a whirlpool in the kettle

    Due to the shape of the FermZIlla range (the conical shape of the Tri-Conical FermZilla and the rounded base of the All Rounder) you can skip the whirlpool in the kettle and just transfer everything! The hops and trub will simply settle out. You can then use the Collection Container of the Tri-Conical to dump this (if desired). In addition, when transferring under pressure, we are only drawing clear beer from the surface during the process, greatly minimising the amount of solids that can make their way into the keg.

    Do not loosen the lid when the FermZilla is under pressure. Purge all pressure in the FermZilla loosening the lid ring

  • When not under pressure do not expose to liquids above 55°C (131°F). Only clean, wash or sanitise the fermenter with cold water

  • When under pressure do not expose to any temperatures above 35°C (95°F)

  • Keep the fermenter out of direct sun or heat. Do not expose to UV rays of any sort

  • If using a heat belt to warm the fermenter then only have the heat belt sitting below the liquid level. Do not use an unregulated heat source, only use heat sources which are plugged into a temperature controller

  • Under no circumstances apply more than 2.5bar (35psi) to the fermenter. Do not connect an unregulated pressure source. If you connect external pressure source ensure it has independent PRV pre-set to 35psi or below

  • A spunding valve set below 35psi must always be connected to the FermZilla when fermenting under pressure or connected to the recipient keg when performing a closed transfer. Recommended range for pressure fermenting is 10-12psi

  • Do not tamper with the pressure relief valve. Only use the red or yellow coloured pressure relief valve supplied by KegLand

  • If vigorous fermentation is experienced and krausen or wort has contacted the PRV, ensure the PRV is removed and cleaned before putting the FermZilla under pressure

  • If the fermenter is scratched, damaged or has been under any physical duress; do not use the fermenter under pressure without hydro-testing

  • If you use the fermenter under pressure hydro test the fermenter every 24 months to ensure it is safe to use

  • Only use chemical cleaners and sanitizers that are approved by Kegland. These include: KL05371 Ethyl Sanitiser Sprayarrow-up-right (effective for sanitising the exterior of the FermZilla) , KL05357 StellarSanarrow-up-right (mixed to the correct dilution), KL05494 StellarClean PBWarrow-up-right (not to be left in the FermZilla for more than 30 minutes), KL07405 StellarOxyarrow-up-right. Or contact https://www.kegland.com.au/arrow-up-right for more information regarding other compatible chemical cleaning products

  • Do not over tighten carbonation caps onto the threads of the lid. Doing so can result in the thread being stripped or cracked. We recommend using KL10788 Multi Gas Post Plastic Carbonation Cap (available in redarrow-up-right (gas) and yellowarrow-up-right (liquid)

  • Do not over tighten the stainless-steel handles onto the neck of the FermZilla

  • Avoid lifting the FermZilla while full. If filled with wort avoid moving the FermZilla to prevent sticky wort from preventing the PRV from operating

  • Always conduct a leak test prior to beginning fermentation

  • Lubricating all O-rings will prolong the life of the unit. We recommend Haynes Food Grade Lubearrow-up-right

  • When fermenting under pressure, a PRV alone is not sufficient. A Spunding Valvearrow-up-right must be used to ensure pressure dos not build beyond safe limits.

  • Using a Spunding Valve to ferment under Pressure

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    D-Type and S-Type Couplers

    Push the coupler into the opening of the spear and then rotate firmly clockwise to attach the coupler to the spear. Then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg.

    More detailed instructions on how to assemble and operate a keg coupler can be seen in this video:

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    Inserting EVABarrier hose into duotight fittings

    Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689 Tube Cutterarrow-up-right

    If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.

    Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.

    Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.

    NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue

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    Removing EVABarrier Hose from duotight fittings

    To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.

    While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.

    Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.

    Using a 7 in 1 tool to remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting

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    Using Ball Lock DIsconnects with Commercial Couplers

    KegLand Commercial Couplers are supplied with duotight fittings that make connecting EVABarrier gas and beer line quite easy.

    However, if you plan on switching couplers or wish to use an alternative connection method that allows a bit more customisation, we recommend replacing the duotight fittings with Ball Lock Posts. When adding Ball Lock Posts to a coupler setup, it is recommended to also add a KL00390 Low Profile Elbow Bendarrow-up-right which will make it easier to fit a 50L keg.

    You will also need a KL00840 Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Liquidarrow-up-right and a KL00833 Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Gasarrow-up-right which will replace the duotight fittings on the coupler and allow you to use Ball Lock Disconnects on the beer and gas line instead

    Couplers adapted for Ball Lock Posts
    Low Profile Elbow Bendarrow-up-right
    Commercial Keg Couplers

    Setup & Operation

    KL15868 Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator | Setup & Operation

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    Connections

    The Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator is a fantastically versatile regulator. There are two outputs with different orientations, either of which can be fitted with an included MFL fitting or a 6.35mm duoptight barb. To swap outputs please refer to How To Swap Outputs

    There are several different ways to connect gas tubing and/or disconnects to the Mini 360. For example, you can use a KL24242 duotight 6.35mm (1/4'') x Ball Lock Disconnect - (Grey + Red Gas) on the 6.35mm barb at a right angle for use (for example) on a 19L cornelius Keg (see below.

    Connecting the Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator directly to a keg in this manner is thus extremely simple to setup.

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    Connecting Disconnects to Mini 360

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    Duotight Disconnects

    Doutight Disonnects are ideal for the Mini 360. It is recommended to use the included 6.35mm duotight barb fitting. Install this in the desired output first, and blank off the unused output if required.

    KL24242 This is directly compatible with the included 6.35mm duotight barb. simply push the disconnect directly onto the barb, ensuring that it is fitted up to the indicator on the disconnect. These are the recommended duotight Disconnects to use with the Mini 360.

    KL20756 First, connect a KL42642 to the included 6.35mm duotight barb. Then connect the 8mm duotight Disconnect to the corresponding 8mm male barb

    KL20770 First, connect a KL08648 to the included 6.35mm duotight barb. Then use a KL45735 to connect the 9.5mm duotight Disconnect

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    MFL Threaded Disconnects

    Installing KL02967

    It is generally best to use the output immediately below the gauge when connecting the Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator to a KL02967 . Ensure the FFL outlet is installed in this orientation then thread the disconnect onto the FFL thread. No nylon flare washer is required to seal in this configuration

    Installing stainless MFL Disconnects (KL03001 & KL09546 )

    It is generally best to use the output adjacent to the gauge when connecting the Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator to a stainless MFL Disconnect. Ensure the FFL outlet is installed in this orientation then thread the disconnect onto the FFL thread.

    A KL03032 is required to seal in this configuration

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    Connecting tubing to Mini 360

    You may wish to connect the gas ball lock disconnect to the Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator with a length of tubing rather than directly. This can be useful if using the Mini 360 with a jockey box or similar. It is also generally better when using the Mini 360 to charge PET kegs such as the , as these are much lighter than stainless kegs and thus may not directly support the weight of the regulator.

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    EVABarrier Tubing

    EABarrier tubing is recommended, as it is directly compatible with the included 6.35mm duotight barbed outlet.

    1. Install the included 6.35mm duotight barbed outlet in the output of choice

    2. Attach a suitable duotight joiner or reducer to the barb. See chart below. Ensure it is firmly seated.

    3. Push the end of the correctly sized EVABarrier into the duotight fitting, ensuring it is cut clean and square and is fully inserted.

    6.35mm OD EVABarrier - use KL37259

    8mm OD EVABarrier - use KL07481

    9.5mm OD EVABarrier - use KL08648 Reducer

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    Other Tubing (non EVABarrier)

    If you wish to use non duotight compatible tubing (such as vnyl tubing) or if you prefer to use clamps rather than duotight fittings then use the included 6.35mm duotight barb. Once this is installed in the output of choice then push the end of the tubing over the barb and secure with a suitable stepless clamp.

    KL06682 are generally a good fit, although this can depend on the OD (outer diamter) of the line.

    If you find it difficult to get the tubing over the barb you can heat it up in warm or hot water and stretch the internal diameter using needle nose pliers. NOTE: 4mm ID EVABarrier is very difficult to stretch over a 6.35mm barb and is not recommended for that reason.

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    Splitting the Gas Line

    When using EVABarrier tubing with the Mini 260 Core Actuator Regulator, it is easy to tee off the gas line to carbonate and/or dispense multiple kegs at once.

    Simply use an appropriate tee piece to split the line as required - one tee pice services two kegs, two tee pieces service three kegs etc.

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    Connecting Gas Cylinders to Mini 360

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    Connecting 16g Disposable CO2 Bulbs

    KL06149 are a great portable option for dispensing on the go with smaller volume kegs. They are not suggested for use for both carbonating and dispensing as this will require a large number of gas bulbs to be used, typically with about 6g per litre of CO2 used for carbonating and 6g per litre of CO2 used for dispensing.

    1. Ensure you have the 16g CO­2 reducing bush tightened onto the inlet

    2. Unscrew the thumb screw. Do not unscrew until there is thread exposed on the thumb screw - we want the actuator pin sufficently retracted so that the bulb can be inserted without piercing the bulb

    3. Screw the 16g CO2 bulb into the reducing bush

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    Connecting 74g Big Bulb Disposable CO2 Bulbs

    KL16889 are perfect for parties, picnics and gatherings where you are dispensing more beer than might be viable with the smaller 16g bulbs.. They are not suggested for use for both carbonating and dispensing as this will require a large number of gas bulbs to be used, typically with about 6g per litre of CO2 used for carbonating and 6g per litre of CO2 used for dispensing.

    NOTE: Requires an optional bushing KL20213 NOT INCLUDED

    1. Thread the optional KL20213 74g Cartridge Adapter into the Mini 360. You will need to first remove the 16g bulb bushing if installed. Ensure it is snug but not over-tightened

    2. Unscrew the thumb screw. Do not unscrew until there is thread exposed on the thumb screw - we want the actuator pin sufficently retracted so that the bulb can be inserted without piercing the bulb

    3. Screw the 74g Big Bulb CO2 bulb into the reducing bush

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    Connecting Sodastream and Sodastream Compatible Cylinders

    If you were looking for a more cost-effective but still portable CO2 source than CO2 bulbs a Sodastream cylinder or can be used. This doesn’t require an adaptor to be used. Using a Mini 360 Regulator with a Sodastream Compatible Cylinder can also be a great option for kegerators or fermenting chambers if space is limited.

    1. Unscrew the 16g bulb reducing bush on the inlet Iif fitted)

    2. Unscrew the thumb screw. Do not unscrew until there is thread exposed on the thumb screw - we want the actuator pin sufficently retracted so that the bulb can be inserted without engaging the poppet of the Sodastream cylinder

    3. Screw the Sodastream cylinder into the regulator, making sure to hold the neck of the Sodastream cylinder in place while attaching and detaching

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    Connecting M10 Disposable Nitrogen Cylinders

    The Mini 360 Core Actuating Regulator is a fantastic option for regulating nitrogen from a KL25317 .

    NOTE: Requires an optional bushing KL32087 NOT INCLUDED

    1. Thread the optional KL20213 74g Cartridge Adapter into the Mini 360. You will need to first remove the 16g bulb bushing if installed. Ensure it is snug but not over-tightened

    2. Unscrew the thumb screw. Do not unscrew until there is thread exposed on the thumb screw - we want the actuator pin sufficently retracted so that the bulb can be inserted without engaging the poppet of the Sodastream cylinder

    3. Screw the disposable M10 threaded N2 cylinder into the regulator, making sure to hold the neck of the cylinder in place while attaching and detaching. Do not overtighten. These are a face sealing bushing so do not need to be super tight to seal. Over tightening the bushing or the cylinder can cause damage to the seal and can also block the flow of gas.

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    Regulating Pressure

    Turn the adjustment dial on the regulator clockwise to increase the set pressure.

    To decrease the set pressure turn the adjustment knob completely anti clockwise and then release the pressure downstream of the regulator (by pulling on the PRV of the keg). Then turn the dial clockwise to reset the pressure at the desired pressure.

    Always ensure the pressure on the regulator is equal to or higher than the pressure of the keg to avoid liquid flowing back into the regulator. It is highly suggested to use a check valve in your system () to prevent this from occurring in the event that your gas cylinder becomes empty and you are unaware of a pressure drop in the regulator. If liquid flows back into the regulator it may result in the regulator becoming damaged, hence, this should be avoided.

    If the regulator does get liquid inside for any reason, this will likely result in pressure creep. Pressure creep is when contamination or something else has got into the seat and seat cap assembly and the flow of gas doesn’t stop even when the set pressure is reached. You will see the indicated gauge pressure increase until the PRV starts venting, irrespective of the regulator knob position - this is pressure creep.

    If this happens repeatedly then it’s likely you will need to .

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    Performing A Leak Test

    It is essential that a leak test is performed every time a gas bulb or Sodastream cylinder is connected to the Mini 360 Core Actuator Regulator. This can be performed via the methods described below.

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    Pressure Decay Test

    1. Ensure a disconnect is connected to an output of the Mini 360, and that the other output is sealed.

    2. Attach the CO2 source to the regulator

    3. Turn the adjustment dial on the regulator to register 5-10 psi on your pressure gauge

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    Soapy Water/StellarSan Leak Test

    1. Ensure a disconnect is connected to an output of the Mini 360, and that the other output is sealed.

    2. Attach the CO2 source to the regulator

    3. Turn the adjustment dial on the regulator to register 20-30 psi on your pressure gauge

    • Between the gas bulb/cylinder and regulator

    • Between the regulator body and the 360° FFL fitting or 360° 6.5 mm duotight compatible barb

    • Between the regulator body and the output end cap

    Operation

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Operation

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    Display Panel Legend

    Display Panel Legend
    1. Power Button

    2. SET Button

    3. Up and Down Buttons

    4. Compressor Cycle Indicator (flashes during compressor cooldown cycle)

    5. Fan Indicator

    6. Celsius/Fahrenheit Button

    7. Manual LED Button

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    Adjusting the Set Point Temperature

    To adjust the Set Point Temperature:

    1. Press the SET button to display the current Set Point Temperature.

    2. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify and save the Set Point Temperature

    3. Press the SET button to exit the Adjustment Status and display the current actual temperature

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    Change Display between Celsius and Fahrenheit

    To change the displayed temperature between Celsius and Fahrenheit press the °C/°F button. Press it again to revert to the previous units.

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    Manually operate the internal LED

    The internal LED is automatically turned on when the door is opened. It can be manually operated - turned on or off - using the Light Button. The LED is on a timer so it will automatically turn off after 2 minutes.

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    Enter Manual Defrost

    The KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator has a defrost cycle programmed in. Should you wish to perform a manual defrost for any reason (such as visible ice build up) this can be performed by pressing the Up button for 6 seconds to begin a defrost cycle. If a defrost cycle is running, performing this operation will manually stop the defrost cycle.

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    Adjust Hysteresis

    Hysteresis is the allowed differntial from the Set Point Temperature before the compressor (cooling) operates. Thus, if the Set Point Temperature is 2°C and the Hysteresis is 3°C then the compressor will operate when the internal temperature reads 5°C, and it will continue to operate until the Set Point Temperature of 2°C is reached. The default hysteresis is 3°C, which is appropriate for most circumstances.

    Note: Decreasing the hysteresis can increase power consumption

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    To Adjust the Hysteresis

    1. Press the SET button and hold for 8 seconds to enter the parameter setup mode - L1 will flash on the display

    2. Press the SET button to cycle through Parameters until L3 is displayed

    3. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Hysteresis

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    Temperature Calibration

    If there is a large variance between the displayed temperature (IE the temperature of the internal temperature probe and the actual internal temperature of the kegerator (as measureed by a calibrated thermometer) then the Temperature Offset can be adjusted from -20°C to 20°C

    A Temperature Offset will offset the displayed temperature by the entered amount.

    Thus, if the displayed temperature is 2°C but the actual internal temperature is 4°C, and offset of +2°C is required.

    Note: In most cases this is not necessary to be adjusted. There will be minor temperature differences in the kegerator due to airflow etc.

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    To Adjust the Offset

    1. Press the SET button and hold for 8 seconds to enter the parameter setup mode - L1 will flash on the display

    2. Press the SET button to cycle through Parameters until L5 is displayed

    3. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Temperature Offset (from 20°C to -20°C)

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    To Adjust the Defrost Duration

    1. Press the SET button and hold for 8 seconds to enter the parameter setup mode - L1 will flash on the display

    2. Press the SET button to cycle through Parameters until F1 is displayed

    3. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Defrost Duration (from 1 minute to 60 minutes). The default setting is 30 minutes

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    To Adjust the Defrost Interval Time

    1. Press the SET button and hold for 8 seconds to enter the parameter setup mode - L1 will flash on the display

    2. Press the SET button to cycle through Parameters until F2 is displayed

    3. Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Defrost Interval Time (from 00 hours to 24 hours). The default setting is 4 hours

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    Factory Reset

    To reset all settings (Set Point, Hysteresis, Offset etc) to factory defaults, press and hold the Up or Down buttons simultaneously for 8 seconds until the display flashes 888, then release. This will restore the unit to factory defaults.

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    All Functions

    Refer below for a list of all functions and defaulty settings. it is strongly recommended to not adjust any settings unless advised except for the Temperature Set Point as needed. Please note that failure due to incorrect settings (such as insufficient defrost cycle time or compresser delay time) will not be covered under warranty.

    Parameter
    Function
    Range
    Default

    What's Included

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Inclusions

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    27L & 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Easy-Grip Pressure Fermenter Starter Kit

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    Gen3 27L & 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Starter Kit with handle

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    Gen3 27L & 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Complete Pressure Brewing Kit

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    Gen3 27L & 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Hop Bong Complete Pressure Brewing Kit

    Fermentation

    FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Fermentation

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    Using The FermZilla Without Pressure

    The FermZIlla range (excluding the non pressure rated FermZilla Flat Bottom) are designed to be optimally used with CO2 pressure. They are not really designed for gravity only operation in the same manner as a fermenter with a tap.

    However, there are some workarounds that can allow this, although it is not recommended.

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    Using The FermZilla Under Pressure

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    Performing a Leak Test

    If you intend to use FermZilla under pressure it is strongly advised to perform a leak test prior to commencing fermentation.

    This will require access to an external pressure source such as a CO2 cylinder with a Type 30 MK4 regulator. To thoroughly pressure test the FermZilla it is best to perform a pressure decay leak test.

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    Pressure Decay Leak Test Procedure

    1. Assemble the FermZIlla according to the instructions

    2. Pressurise the empty FermZilla to a minimum of 15psi (but not more than 35psi)

    3. Turn the CO2 cylinder off and leave to sit for a few hours

    A leak can occur from the Carbonation Caps, the lid, the butterfly valve assembly* and/or the Collection Container assembly*

    *FermZilla Tri-Conical model only

    To locate the leak you can pressurise the FermZilla and spray with soapy water to look for bubbles. Bubbles will identify the source of the leak. You can also fill a bucket with water and submerge the lid of the FermZilla under water. Again, bubbles will identify exactly where the leak is.

    Once the leak has been located, remove and inspect any fittings. If there is damage (such as a crack) then the fitting may need to be replaced. If a seal is damaged it may need to be replaced. If no damage is found then reassemble using food safe lube and retest.

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    Fermenting Under Pressure

    Pressure Fermentation is a fantastic tool to have in your fermenting arsenal. In the commercial brewing world, most beers are fermented under pressure to some degree due to the size and shape of the tanks used. This means that the pressure at the bottom of the tank is quite significant even if no pressure has been applied to the tank.

    Fermenting under pressure can have several positive benefits.

    1: It can allow elevated temperatures with no off flavours. This in turn can lead to a faster and complete fermentation.

    2: Fermenting under pressure can suppress esters and off flavours, leading to a cleaner beer in the glass.

    3: Fermenting under pressure means that the CO2 produced in large quantities during fermentation can be dissolved back into solution - thus you can achieve complete carbonation y the time the beer is ready to keg.

    NOTE: Not all beers styles are suited to pressure fermentation. Styles such as Belgian beers and Saisons rely on yeast expression and character and thus they are not really good candidates for pressure fermentation.

    To ferment under pressure you will need either the Complete Pressure Brewing Kit:

    Or you will need to purchase the following accessories for your FermZilla (NOTE: Required accessories can differ according to model. Check the product page or contact KegLand if unsure)

    2 x KL10788 (we like to use for Gas, for Liquid for easy identification)

    1 x KL17060

    1 x KB03529

    To transfer your finished beer you will also need some spare transfer line and 2 x . If you do not have spare transfer line then the is ideal

    For a comprehensive guide to Pressure Fermentation please check out this article:

    To ferment under pressure simply replace the black plastic caps on the FermZilla lid with Carbonation Caps. Ensure the Silicon Dip Tube is cut to the correct length and connected to one of the caps using the barb.

    Instead of using the airlock we will use a to control the pressure build up in the tank. Best practice is to not allow pressure build up for the first 24 hours after pitching yeast. This is because pressure can inhibit yeast growth.

    For most fermentations, we recommend setting the Spunding Valve to allow pressure to build to 10-12psi. Under no circumstances should pressure be allowed to go to or higher than 35psi.

    WARNING: If fermenting at high temperatures (above 35psi) do not also ferment under pressure. The combination of high temperature fermentation and pressure can cause failure.

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    Setting The Spunding Valve To The Desired Pressure

    To set the Spunding Valve two methods can be used.

    1. Wind in the handle of the Spunding Valve (clockwise) and connect it to an empty, pressurised vessel with ball lock posts - a keg is ideal. Ensure the pressure in the keg is higher than the desired set pressure. Slowly unscrew the handle of the Spunding Valve until the desired pressure is reached. Once the Spunding Valve is just venting at the desired pressure it can be removed and put on the FermZilla

    2. Once active fermentation is underway CO2 will be produced quite quickly. You can connect the Spunding Valve to the Gas Post of the FermZIlla and turn the handle clockwise. Pressure will build up over a few hours and thus you can check the FermZilla and valve every 15 minutes and adjust until the desired pressure is reached. NOTE: It is important to constantly monitor the FermZIlla when setting pressure manually in order to ensure there is no possibility of over pressurising the tank

    When fermenting under pressure ensure that the FermZilla is depressurised prior to closing the Butterfly Valve, Removing the Collection Container or removing the FermZilla Lid

    Once fermentation is finished, best practice is to the beer before transferring to your desired packaging.

    To ensure that fermentation is complete before transferring, take a gravity reading across three consecutive days. If the gravity reading is stable and in the expected range we can be sure that fermentation is completed and the beer is ready!

    As a pressure capable fermenter, the FermZilla range is the ideal fermenter for transferring into kegs. This can be easily done with no mess, fuss or risk of oxidation using a once the beer is finished.

    BrewBuilt X3 Uni Conical Fermenter | User Guide

    BrewBuilt X3 Uni Conical Fermenter | User Guide | KB24793 | KB24817 | KB24841 | KB24865

    No Need to Upgrade Later, The BrewBuilt X3 Comes Fully Loaded:

    • Built-in external cooling jacket with 1.5" TC Ports

    • Neoprene jacket for insulation

    • Pressure Pack lid with floating dip tube, draft style QD connections for sampling/serving, and an extra 1.5" TC for hop bongs.

    • The Clear Flex Chamber Bottom Dump allows you to see fermentation, collect and remove trub, and has added ports for purging, oxygenating, carbing and more... so flexible.

    • Highest quality mirror polish finish inside and out

    • Welded, ground and polished interior welds are the very highest quality and the ultimate for sanitation

    New Features:

    • Professional 8” Tri-Clamp lid replaces the need for a complicated band clamp to attach the lid

    • Four crossbar reinforced legs, that flare out, create the most stable base and more access to the front fittings and dump system

    • Horizontal ports on the cone, just like pro tanks, allowing your racking arm, carbstone, and thermometer to have a horizontal placement in your tank. This allows for smaller minimum batch sizes, better carbonation, and more

    The new X3 from BrewBuilt sets the new standard for quality. We guarantee that you will love the fit and finish of the X3 Uni Jacketed Conical. Made entirely of 304 stainless steel, with flawless welds and a dazzling mirror-polish finish inside and out that is simply the best. The BrewBuilt X3 Uni is easy to sanitize and even easier on the eyes. It is definitely Instagram worthy! #BrewBuilt

    External Cooling Jacket When it comes to temperature control for a homebrew conical fermenter the holy grail has been an external cooling jacket. Internal cooling coils have long been the answer and while they are simpler to make and relatively inexpensive, they are harder to clean and have issues cold crashing in warm environments. The BrewBuilt X3 Jacketed Conical offers maximum cooling power without any compromise of sanitation.

    8” Tri-Clamp Top Port New to the X3, the 8” Tri-Clamp lid is rock solid and easy to use. The 8” opening allows plenty of space to still get in and clean the inside of the conical by hand if desired. A unique 8”, three-piece, tri-clamp is used to make sealing the top very easy and very secure.

    Extra Large 3” T.C. Dump Valve The largest in the industry. Dry hop to your heart's desire. Try as they might, hopheads will have a hard time clogging this conical. With an oversized 3" bottom port, you’ll have all the clearance you need (and even more than some pro brewers) to drop out your dry hop additions with ease. The slick mirror-polish finish on the inside allows flocculating yeast to collect neatly at the bottom of the cone as they slide right down the smooth interior walls. The butterfly dump valve integrates perfectly with the optional Flex Chamber Collection Jar and Yeast Harvester.

    Reinforced Four-Leg Foundation There’s a common complaint about the tippiness of three-legged units. Three legs may be fine when the fermenter is sitting still on an even surface, but users are often forced to purchase a bracing shelf for more stability if they add casters or leg extensions. A conical is only as worthy as its foundation, so BrewBuilt modeled the X3 after professional-level brewery tanks with a four-leg, reinforced base. This seemingly small design feature is more expensive to produce, but it's what makes the X3 conical exceedingly stable when compared to other models. When you fill up your fermenter with delicious fresh wort, you want to trust the vessel that’s holding your latest creation. Brewers shouted from the mountaintops that they wanted stronger, sturdier legs right out of the box that doesn’t require an additional bracing shelf. The four-leg, welded-bar reinforced system is absolutely rock solid. This is an especially critical feature if you plan to add rolling casters so you can easily glide the fermenter around your brewery.

    The reinforced four-leg design not only increased the stability and strength of the conical but also allows the unit to stand taller, thereby eliminating the need for extensions in almost every situation. An elbow, a sight glass, or the Flex Chamber can be mounted under the unit with room to spare.

    Adjustable Feet The X3 Jacketed Conical comes standard with reinforced thread-in adjustable feet. If your home brewery has uneven flooring, you can quickly and easily level out the fermenter. The feet can be swapped out with high-quality casters at any time.

    Flex Chamber Collection Jar - Trub Separator & Yeast Harvester Working in collaboration with KegLand, we developed the pressurizable Flex Chamber Collection Jar. It attaches directly to the butterfly dump valve and can be used for removing trub, harvesting yeast, and many other tasks. Since it's made from crystal clear Triton, you'll be able to visually monitor fermentation activity just as you would with a sight glass. Ball lock adapters can be attached to the threaded ports on either side, allowing you to connect oxygenation or carbonation stones, or flush the Flex Chamber with CO2 and use it to inject hops or other ingredients into your conical. Also, a great option for storing yeast! Simply attach a 3" T.C. end cap or PRV and store your harvested yeast in the fridge for your next fermentation.

    Pressure Pack with Clear Float Technology Adding pressure capability will allow you to ferment, carbonate, and even serve all in one vessel. The KL23573 features the unique Clear Float Technology racking tube that can be used for taking samples, transferring to keg, or serving finished beer. This innovative feature draws beer from the top down, which means you’re always pulling the clearest, most sediment-free beer possible. Using pressure to draw a sample from the floating dip tube will also eliminate the tiny bit of oxygen that would be injected into your beer every time the traditional sample valve is opened.

    Pressure transferring from fermenter to keg is the best way to protect your beer from oxygen when it’s at its most vulnerable state. Kegging could be considered the final hurdle in the brewing process, where limiting oxygen exposure is critical. This could mean the difference between your beer tasting great for months or tasting great for a week. Don’t take any chances. Use the Pressure Pack to keg from the top down and leave sediment behind.

    Other Features You’ll Love:

    • Downward-facing Blowoff U Barb prevents blow off tubing from kinking and is much easier to remove and clean than a fixed stainless blow off

    • Stainless steel lid clamp with single-piece molded silicone gasket

    • In the GEN 3 redesign, we've added two more 1.5" T.C. ports to the cone and body for additional flexibility with current and upcoming product add-ons

    X-Series Accessories

    • BrewBuilt Kit for Fermenting Under Pressure (Required to ferment or seal/cap an X3 with an active fermentation) The Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) that comes with the conical is not sufficient for fermentation as it can become clogged with Krausen. To ferment or seal/cap an active fermentation requires the use and safety of the KL40631 This no-compromises kit includes the same hardware you will find on a commercial unitank, including a dedicated pro level spunding valve, a sealed pressure gauge, and a dedicated commercial PRV. Read more about these key hardware features in the kit copy. Also included is liquid Foam-Axe which helps reduce Krausen. Please read and follow all special instructions that come with the kit as well as your instruction manual.

    • Hop Bong Oxygen-Free Dry Hopping Device The KL26062 is a versatile pressurizable tri-clamp accessory that is perfect for purging oxygen from your dry hops before dropping them into your fermenter. Load up the Hop Bong, flush it with CO2, purge out oxygen with the handy PRV on top, then simply open the Butterfly Valve to inject your beer with a 6 oz payload of dry hops.

    Assembly

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Assembly

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    FermZIlla Lid Assembly

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    Lid Assembly | Caps and Airlock

    3" oversized bottom port and Butterfly Valve with 3” tri-clamp Flex Chamber collection vessel

    High Roller Caster Set Go mobile with this KL38386 BrewBuilt X3 - 3 Inch SS TPR Caster Wheel Set. Your fermenter moves around the brewery a lot, so why not give it some glide? Roll from sanitizing to kettle transfer to keg transfer to cleaning with minimal effort. Moving a stainless conical around can be taxing. Give your back a break and upgrade your conical with a set of rolling casters.

  • Fermentation Glycol Chiller with Digital Control | 4 Pump Model | G40 Built to pair perfectly with the KL13499 G40 Glycol Fermenter chillerarrow-up-right. Easily and efficiently control your fermentation temperature and cold crash for conditioning and clarifying. Pair with our BrewBuilt Insulated Tubing Kit that comes complete with premium quick disconnects with shutoff valves that provide a “dry break” when they’re disconnected.

  • Pressure Packarrow-up-right
    Spunding Valve Bubbler Pressure Fermenting Kitarrow-up-right
    .arrow-up-right
    1.5 Inch Hop Bong arrow-up-right

    Screw the thumb screw in to pierce the CO2 bulb

  • Ensure a seal is formed between the gas bulb and the regulator. Tighten more if needed but do not over tighten the CO2 bulb into the reducing bush. Over tightening can result in no gas being able to pass through the regulator

  • Perform a leak test to ensure an adequate seal has been formed

  • Screw the thumb screw in to pierce the CO2 bulb

  • Ensure a seal is formed between the gas bulb and the regulator. Tighten more if needed but do not over tighten the CO2 bulb into the reducing bush. Over tightening can result in no gas being able to pass through the regulator

  • Perform a leak test to ensure an adequate seal has been formed

  • Screw the thumb screw in to depress the valve on the Sodastream cylinder

  • Ensure a seal is formed between the cylinder and the regulator. Tighten more if needed but do not over tighten the Sodastream cylinder into the reducing bush. Over tightening can result in no gas being able to pass through the regulator

  • Perform a leak test to ensure an adequate seal has been formed

  • Screw the thumb screw in to depress the valve on the N2 cylinder

  • Ensure a seal is formed between the cylinder and the regulator. Tighten more if needed but do not over tighten the N2 cylinder into the reducing bush. Over tightening can result in no gas being able to pass through the regulator

  • Perform a leak test to ensure an adequate seal has been formed

  • Turn the adjustment dial to the off position (anti-clockwise) and leave the regulator to sit for a few hours. Then check if the pressure on the gauge has decreased noticeably from the set pressure. NOTE: Pressure will fluctuate a small amount depending on ambient temperature, so a small (~1psi) drop is not indicitive of a leak.

    If the pressure has decreased noticeably on the gauge then there is a leak in the system and the source of the leak should be identified via a soapy water/stellarsan leak test.

    Spray every connection with soapy water or stellarsan solution.
    Between the 360° FFL fitting and ball lock disconnect (if applicable)
  • Between the 360° 6.5 mm duotight compatible barb and the 8mm OD hose

  • The ball lock posts and lid on the keg

  • duotight 6.35mm (1/4'') x Ball Lock Disconnect - (Grey + Red Gas)arrow-up-right
    duotight 8mm (5/16) x Ball Lock Disconnect - (Grey + Red Gas)arrow-up-right
    duotight - 8mm (5/16'') Male x 6.35mm (1/4'') Female Reducerarrow-up-right
    duotight 9.5mm (3.8) x Ball Lock Disconnect - (Grey + Red Gas)arrow-up-right
    duotight - 6.35mm (1/4'')Female x 9.5mm (3/8'') Female Reducerarrow-up-right
    Rigid Stainless Steel Joiner 6.5mm ID x 9.5mm OD (3/8) x 60mm Longarrow-up-right
    Premium Ball Lock Disconnect - MFL (Grey/Gas)arrow-up-right
    Premium Ball Lock Disconnect - MFL (Grey/Gas)arrow-up-right
    Stainless Gas Lock Disconnect MFL Threadarrow-up-right
    Machined Stainless Ball Lock Disconnect - MFL Thread (Black/Liquidarrow-up-right
    nylon flare washerarrow-up-right
    OXEBAR kegsarrow-up-right
    duotight - 6.35mm (1/4'') Female x 6.35mm (1/4'') Female Push In Joinerarrow-up-right
    duotight - 6.35mm (1/4'') Female x 8mm (5/16'') Female Reducerarrow-up-right
    duotight - 6.35mm (1/4'')Female x 9.5mm (3/8'') Femalearrow-up-right
    10.5mm S.S. Stepless Clamps (suit 7-10mm OD)arrow-up-right
    Use duotight fittings instead.
    Monotight - 6.35mm(1/4inch) Tee Piecearrow-up-right
    duotight – 8mm (5/16”) Female x 8mm (5/16”) Female Tee Piecearrow-up-right
    duotight - 9.5mm (3/8”) Female x 9.5mm (3/8”) Female Tee Piecearrow-up-right
    16g CO­2 cartridgesarrow-up-right
    74g Big Bulb Disposable CO2 Bulbsarrow-up-right
    Mini 360 Core Adaptor for 74gram Cartridge/Bulb (G1/2 Male x 5/8-18UNF Female)arrow-up-right
    Sodastream Compatible Cylinderarrow-up-right
    2.2L Nitrogen Disposable Gas Cylinder (N2)arrow-up-right
    Nitrogen Adaptor for Mini 360 Core Regualtorarrow-up-right
    KL07047arrow-up-right
    replace the Seat and Seat Cap Assembly
    Check the pressure in the FermZilla. If it has decreased substantially then there may be a leak that will need to be identified before using the FermZilla under pressure
    30L FermZilla All Rounder Complete Pressure Brewing Kitarrow-up-right
    60L FermZilla All Rounder Complete Pressure Brewing Kitarrow-up-right
    Gen3 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Complete Pressure Brewing Kitarrow-up-right
    Gen3 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Complete Pressure Brewing Kitarrow-up-right
    Carbonation Capsarrow-up-right
    Red arrow-up-right
    Yellow arrow-up-right
    100cm Silicone Dip Tube Kit with Yellow Weighted Filter and SS Floatarrow-up-right
    Integrated Gauge BlowTie Kit (0-15psi)arrow-up-right
    Ball Lock Disconnectsarrow-up-right
    Big Jumper Kitarrow-up-right
    A Guide To Pressure Fermentationarrow-up-right
    Blowtie Spunding Valvearrow-up-right
    cold crash
    pressure transfer
    Fermenting under pressure with Spunding Valve
    4mm x 8mm EVABarrierarrow-up-right
    8mm duotight Disconnects - Liquidarrow-up-right
    duotight 0-150psi push in gaugearrow-up-right
    8mm duotight Disconnect - Gasarrow-up-right
    4mm x 8mm EVABarrierarrow-up-right
    8mm duotight Disconnects - Liquidarrow-up-right
    duotight 0-150psi push in gaugearrow-up-right
    8mm duotight Disconnect - Gasarrow-up-right
    Fixing Leaks
    Detergent Bubble Test
    Fixing Leaks
    Detergent Bubble Test
    Using a Spunding Valve to ferment under Pressure

    Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 6 seconds)

    Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 6 seconds)

    Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 6 seconds)

    Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 6 seconds)

    8°C (46°F)

    L3

    Hysteresis

    01-20°C (01-36°F)

    3°C (5°F)

    L4

    Compressor Delay Time

    0-10 minutes

    2 minutes

    L5

    Temperature Offset

    -20-20°C (-36-36°F)

    0°C (0°F)

    F1

    Max Defrost Duration

    1-60 minutes

    30 minutes

    F2

    Defrost Interval Time

    0-24 hours

    4 hours

    F6

    Display During Defrost

    00-Normal Display 01-Last Value Before Defrost 02-DEF

    01

    L1

    Lowest Setpoint Limit

    -5°C (23°F) - Set Point

    -01°C (30°F)

    L2

    Highest Setpoint Limit

    Set Point - 8°C (46°F)

    , KL11402
    , KL05333
    and KL11426
  • 1 x KL17060 Stainless Steel Float with Silicone Dip Tube and Mesh Filterarrow-up-right (You will need to cut this to your desired depth)
  • FermZilla Easy-Grip Threaded Lid Ringarrow-up-right
    Pressure Lidarrow-up-right
    Red 35psi PRVarrow-up-right
    lid o-ringarrow-up-right
    Strip Stick on Thermometerarrow-up-right
    27Larrow-up-right
    55Larrow-up-right
    3 Inch tri-clover to 3 Inch tri-clover Butterfly Valvearrow-up-right
    3 Inch tri-clover 3 Piece Clamparrow-up-right
    3 Inch tri-clover Beaded Sealarrow-up-right
    FermZilla - 3 Inch Tri-Conical - 600ml Collection Container Kitarrow-up-right
    Red Carbonation Capsarrow-up-right
    Yellow Carbonation Capsarrow-up-right
    Stainless Steel Float with Silicone Dip Tube and Mesh Filterarrow-up-right
    Integrated Gauge BlowTie Kit (0-15psi) Spunding Valvearrow-up-right
    27L Tankarrow-up-right
    55L Tankarrow-up-right
    Stainless Steel Stand with Swing Handlesarrow-up-right
    Stainless Steel Handle Assemblyarrow-up-right
    inclusions as above
    Red Carbonation Capsarrow-up-right
    Yellow Carbonation Capsarrow-up-right
    inclusions as above
    duotight - BlowTie 2 with Integrated Gauge 0-15psiarrow-up-right
    2 Inch Tri-Clover Hop Bong (Swedish Pumper) Pressure Pack for FermZillaarrow-up-right
    27L & 55L Gen3 Tri-Conical FermZilla
    Threaded Lid Ringarrow-up-right
    Pressure Lidarrow-up-right
    Red 35psi PRVarrow-up-right
    lid o-ringarrow-up-right
    BlowTie Spunding Valve Cleaning

    Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached

  • Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring

  • Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring

  • Use one of the bottle caps to close of one of the holes in the lid

  • Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve

  • Push the three piece airlock into the silicone bung then push both parts into the remaining hole in the lid

  • FermZIlla Lid Assembly | Caps and Airlock

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    Lid Assembly | With Carbonation Caps and Dip Tube (for Pressure Fermentation and Transfer)

    1. Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached

    2. Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring

    3. Thread a red arrow-up-rightand a yellow arrow-up-rightKL10788 Carbonation Cap onto each post. Do not overtighten - these are a wedge seal. Overtightening can crack the posts which will prevent a pressure seal

    4. On the underside of the lid, push the silicone dip tube firmly onto the barb of the yellow Carbonation Cap*

    5. Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve

    6. Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring or Easy Grip Lid Ring

    *Cutting the silicone dip tube so that the ball float just rests at the base of the FermZilla tank will give the best results when transferring the finished beer

    FermZilla Lid Assembly | With Carbonation Caps and Dip Tube (for Pressure Fermentation and Transfer)

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    Lid Assembly | Hop Bong (for O2 free Dry-Hopping, Pressure Fermentation and Transfer)

    1. Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached

    2. Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring

    3. Place the thread lid ring over the lid before assembling - once the Carbonation Caps are in place this will not fit over them

    4. Thread a red and a yellow KL10788 Carbonation Caps onto each post. Do not overtighten - these are a wedge seal. Overtightening can crack the posts which will prevent a pressure seal

    5. On the underside of the lid, push the silicone dip tube firmly onto the barb of the yellow Carbonation Cap*

    6. Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve

    7. Assemble the Butterfly Valve and Hop Bong. A 2" Tri-Clover clamp and beaded seal i used to secure the butterfly valve to the lid, and the Hop Bong to the butterfly valve. We recommend fitting a to the side outlet of the Hop Bong

    8. Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring

    *Cutting the silicone dip tube so that the ball float just rests at the base of the FermZilla tank will give the best results when transferring the finished beer

    FermZIlla Lid Assembly | Hop Bong (for O2 free Dry-Hopping, Pressure Fermentation and Transfer)

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    FermZilla 304 Stainless Steel Handle Assembly*

    1. Insert a bolt into a hole of each of the handles

    2. Screw a nut onto the bolt. Don’t tighten this nut yet

    3. Place the handles around the collar of the FermZilla as shown in the image below.

    4. Insert the second bolt into the remaining holes on the handle and screw the remaining nut onto this bolt

    5. Tighten the two nuts while holding the bolts to prevent them from spinning. Do not overtighten as it can warp the opening of the FermZilla. The handles should be able to freely rotate around the neck of the FermZilla. If they cannot rotate then it is too tight

    *Stainless Handle Assembly not included with FermZIlla Easy-Grip models

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    FermZilla – Butterfly (Dump) Valve Assembly

    1. Place the 3” tri-clover seal and butterfly valve onto the 3” tri-clover ferrule on the tank

    2. Best practice is to use a small amount of food grade lubearrow-up-right on the seal before assembly

    3. Fasten the butterfly valve in place onto the tank using the 3” tri-clover 3-piece clamp, ensuring that the seal is seated in the groove on the butterfly valve and tank

    3" Tri-Clover Beaded Seal Fitting

    Note: It is good practice to lubricate tri-clover seals using food-grade lube to help form a hermetic seal

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    FermZilla Butterfly (Dump) Valve Disassembly

    IMPORTANT: Depressurise the vessel prior to disassembling the butterfly dump valve.

    1. To release the pressure in the vessel, pull the ring on the PRV on the lid until there is no audible hissing heard (this is caused by CO2 escaping from the tank)

    2. Once the vessel is depressurised the butterfly valve can be removed by loosening the 3” tri-clover clamp which holds the butterfly valve in place

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    FermZilla – 600ml Collection Container

    The Collection Container has many uses. The primary function is for collecting and harvesting yeast. However, it can also be used for several other purposes such as:

    • Reagent Bottle

    • Dry Hopping Bottle

    • Beer Sampling Bottle

    • Collection and disposal of unwanted turb or hop material

    • Carbonation of small samples

    • Yeast culturing container

    The FermZilla 600ml Collection Container is made from heat resistant Tritan plastic. This is robust, heat and chemical resistant and can also handle extended contact with hot liquid at 100°C (212°F)

    Note: The current generation of 600ml Tri-Conical Collection Containers are made from a reformulated version of Tritan which is substantially tougher. This makes it more resistant to damage (if dropped etc) and less likely to crack if excessive force is used (when threading carbonation caps, for example).

    This generation can be identified by a small raised circle on the base next to the cap thread - see below

    600ml Tritan Collection Container

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    FermZilla – 600ml Collection Container Assembly

    1. Best practice is to use a small amount of food grade lubearrow-up-right on the seal before assembly

    2. The caps on the 600ml collection jar can be replaced with red arrow-up-rightand yellow arrow-up-rightKL10788 Carbonation Caps or a PCO1881 threaded PRV Cap Comboarrow-up-right as desired

    3. Place the 3" beaded tri-clover seal in the groove on the top of the collection container.

    4. Assemble this against the corresponding groove in the 3" tri-clover butterfly valve, and fasten with the 3” tri-clover 3-piece clamp, ensuring that the seal is seated in the groove on the butterfly valve and collection container

    Assembly - 600ml Collection Container & butterfly valve

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    FermZilla - Collection Container Removal & Safety

    It is extremely important that if you have wort in the Collection Container attached that you keep the butterfly valve open during the entirety of the fermentation process. The butterfly valve should only be closed once fermentation has ceased which is to be determined by three consecutive days of the same Specific Gravity reading.

    To remove the Collection Container once fermentation has ceased it is important to depressurise the entire system. To release the pressure in the vessel, open the butterfly valve if necessary (note: this will already be open during normal fermentation) and pull the ring on the PRV until there is no audible hissing from the PRV. It is also a good idea to loosen one of the carbonation caps on the collection vessel to ensure the Collection Container is completely depressurised.

    Once the system is depressurised the butterfly valve should then be closed if there is liquid in the FermZilla. Then the Collection Container can be detached from the butterfly valve by removing the lower 3” tri-clover 3-piece clamp. This clamp can then be used to secure the lid on the collection jar if desired.

    If the Collection Container is sealed after removing it is vital that fermentation cannot continue as this can cause unregulated pressure build up. We recommend storing Collection Containers in the fridge to help prevent this possibility.

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    Floating Dip Tube Length

    Note: The Stainless Steel Float with Silicone Dip Tube and Mesh Filterarrow-up-right (optional or part of the Pressure Brewing Pack) must be cut to the correct length before use.

    For most situations, cutting the dip tube so that it sits at the base of the FermZilla when the tube is gently curved. We want the dip tube to be able to reach the bottom of the vessel but not so long that it will rest against the sides when transferring. See images below (Tri-Conical on the left, All Rounder on the right)

    FermZIlla Ball Float and Dip Tube Length

    To gauge the correct length, lower the dip tube into the vessel until the desired length is acheived. Cut the dip tube where it reaches the top oif the neck of the FermZilla. Once cut to the correct length push it onto the yellow Carbonation Cap. Note: Carbonation Caps are Multi Posts, so can be used for gas or liquid. We use yellow for liquid and red (DANGER) for gas in order to be consistent and minimise the risk of error.

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    Ball Float Position

    The Ball Float can be positioned in the optional float positions on the filter, using the three hoops on the filter. The filter will sit lower in solution when the ball float is attached closer to the end - see below

    Three Optional Ball Float Positions

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    Graduation Sticker

    The best way to accurately apply the graduation sticker to the FermZilla tank is to first fill the tank with 5L of water.

    This can be done using an accurate jug, or by weighing out 5kg water.

    Once filled with 5L water, apply the graduation sticker so that ithe 5L line is level with the water. Ensure the FermZilla is on a level surface to ensure correct placement.

    Big Jumperarrow-up-right
    Big Jumperarrow-up-right

    Cleaning

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Cleaning

    Cleaning is essential in order to ensure that you have trouble free fermentation and minimise the risk of infection or contamination. The recommended cleaner for the FermZilla range is StellarOxyarrow-up-right. Stellarcleanarrow-up-right may also be used however it is important to limit contact time to 30 minutes or less as prolonged contact time with StellarClean PBW can degrade PET. StellarOxy is sufficient in most situations. StellarCleam PBW can be more effective on oils (for example, if using a large amount of dry hops in the FermZilla it can be preferable to use StellarClean.

    Once cleaned the FermZilla should also be sanitised. StellarSan Sanitizerarrow-up-right is the recommended sanitiser for interior surfaces. For exterior fittings such as carbonation caps etc, we recommend spraying with Ethyl Sanitiser Sprayarrow-up-right

    NOTE: The FermZilla must be cleaned and sanitised before use.

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    Cleaning The FermZilla

    1. Carefully release all pressure from the FermZilla vessel and collection container

    2. Remove the FermZilla collection container, tri-clover butterfly Valve and the lid

    3. Rinse the walls of the FermZilla vessel, collection container, lid and butterfly valve (including the external face of the butterfly valve) with cold water. A garden hose is particularly useful for rinsing and dislodging yeast/hop matter

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    Cleaning The FermZilla with a Bucket Blaster

    The is ideal for cleaning a FermZIlla.

    1. Assemble the Bucket Blaster according to the

    2. Connect the Bucket Blaster to power, ensuring a Drip Loop is used as per the instructions

    3. Fill the Bucket Blaster with water that is less than 40°C until the pump is fully submerged.

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    Cleaning the PRV

    If krausen or sticky wort has contacted the PRV you will need to clean the PRV to ensure it still activates at 35psi.

    This can be easily done by releasing the pressure in the FermZilla by pulling on the ring pull until no pressure is left in the vessel, then unscrew the PRV.

    Submerge this PRV in StellarClean solution to remove any sticky residue. Once all the residue has been removed, rinse and then sanitise the PRV with StellarSan or ethyl kill solution and screw back in to the pressure lid. The Carbonation Caps can also be removed, dismantled and cleaned in the same manner.

    It is recommended to clean the PRV and Carbonation Caps every few brews to ensure that no sticky wort build up causes issues.

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    Cleaning the BlowTie Spunding Valve

    When fermenting under pressure or if fermentation has been particularly active or vigourous krausen or beer may enter the Spunding Valve. In this situation the Spunding Valve will need to be disassembled and cleaned to ensure it operates correctly.

    Follow these steps to disassemble and clean a Spunding Valve

    1. Completely remove the yellow adjustment knob and spring

    2. Unscrew the four large screws on the face of the Blowtie Spunding Valve and the two small screws on the housing of the integrated pressure gauge

    3. Remove the integrated pressure gauge housing and the integrated pressure gauge by gently pulling up on the dial

    This process is also covered in this video

    Troubleshooting

    Series X User Guide | Troubleshooting

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    Beer is not pouring or not pouring well

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    Operation

    Grand Deluxe 3 | Operation

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    Operation | Dixell Controller

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    Front Panel Operation

    Assembly & Instruction Guide

    WARNING: Read entire manual for important safety information before using your BrewBuilt X3 Uni Conical Fermenter. Failure to follow warnings could result in serious injury or death.

    This guide will walk you through assembling and using your X3 Jacketed Conical Fermenter.

    1. READ AND UNDERSTAND THIS FULL MANUAL Before your first use, read through this full manual, and make sure you understand the use & warnings. Visit our BrewBuilt YouTube channel for additional assembly videos.

    2. CLEAN THE CONICAL Before your first use, clean and rinse the conical along with all the parts and fittings. This will remove any leftover oil or dust from the manufacturing process. We recommend using PBW cleaner. Do not use bleach.

    Pressure Transfers

    FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Pressure Transfers

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    Advantages Of Pressure Transfers

    One of the main advantages of a pressurisable FermZilla is the ability to transfer the finished beer into a keg under pressure. This enables a closed transfer with neither the keg nor the FermZilla needing to be opened so that it is possible to all but completely eliminate the risk of oxidation/O2 ingress.

    This is a fantastic boon for the avid homebrewer - avoiding oxidation when transferring helps all beers, especially modern hoppy styles such as NEIPAs.

    Whilst fermenting under pressure can be performed using just the CO2 generated during fermentation, most pressure transfers will require a source of CO2 and a regulator. Options for this include a refillable

    Use a non-abrasive cloth (microfibre cloths are ideal) to remove any stuck on particulate matter from the walls of the FermZilla, lid, collection vessel and butterfly valve
  • Reattach the butterfly valve and close the valve, leaving the collection vessel unattached

  • Rinse the collection vessel by filling it with cold water and StellarOxy arrow-up-rightor Stellarcleanarrow-up-right according to the instructions on the tub, attach the lid and shake to dislodge any yeast/hop matter

  • Then fill the FermZilla with cold water and the correct dosage of StellarOxy arrow-up-rightor StellarCleanarrow-up-right according to the instructions on the tub. After 30 minutes of soaking, gently wipe away any soiling with a soft cloth. Make sure not to use harsh scrubbers that may scratch the plastic and create ideal places for batch-ruining bacteria to hide. NOTE: If using StellarClean it is important to limit contact time to 30 minutes

  • If there is a large amount of hops or yeast coating the walls of the fermenter it is best to perform a longer overnight wash using StellarOxyarrow-up-right. Do not leave StellarClean in the vessel for longer than 30 minutes as this can damage the tank

  • Remove the lid and drain the StellarClean or StellarOxy solution by opening the butterfly valve and then rinse thoroughly using cold water - a garden hose is ideal for this

  • Fill the FermZilla and collection vessel with cold water again and add StellarSan arrow-up-rightaccording to the instructions on the bottle. Reattach the lid and shake the full FermZilla to coat all surfaces - contact time of 60 seconds is required for StellarSan to be effective. It is safe to leave StellarSan (at the correct dilution) in the tank. However, prolonged contact with StellarSan can cause harmless discolouration of the silicon dip tube

  • The the suggested correct dosage of StellarOxy arrow-up-rightor Stellarcleanarrow-up-right to the bucket. Ensure it is correctly diluted
  • Carefully release all pressure from the FermZilla vessel and collection container

  • Remove the FermZilla collection container, tri-clover butterfly Valve and the lid

  • Rinse the walls of the FermZilla vessel, collection container, lid and butterfly valve (including the external face of the butterfly valve) with cold water. A garden hose is particularly useful for rinsing and dislodging yeast/hop matter. This step is optional when using a Bucket Blaster but will help ensure thorough cleaning and speed the process up

  • Reattach the butterfly valve and collection container and ensure the valve is open

  • Place the FermZilla upside down on the stand and insert the spray wand and jet into the opening of the vessel

  • Turn the pump on and allow the Bucket Blaster to do the rest

  • Once the FermZIlla is clean, repeat the cleaning process using clean water (no more than 40°C) to thoroughly rinse the FermZilla

  • Fill the FermZilla and collection vessel with cold water again and add StellarSan arrow-up-rightaccording to the instructions on the bottle. Reattach the lid and shake the full FermZilla to coat all surfaces - contact time of 60 seconds is required for StellarSan to be effective. It is safe to leave StellarSan (at the correct dilution) in the tank. However, prolonged contact with StellarSan can cause harmless discolouration of the silicon dip tube

  • Remove the face of the BlowTie Spunding Valve
  • Remove the diaphragm assembly

  • Remove the collets on the duotight fittings

  • Remove the o-rings within the duotight fittings

  • Soak all components in StellarClean solution for 30 minutes and then reassemble

  • BlowTie Spunding Valve Cleaning
    Bucket Blasterarrow-up-right
    instructionsarrow-up-right
    PRV 1881 Cap Comboarrow-up-right
    Introducing the Hop Bong
    Introducing the Hop Bong
    Using a FOBS to automate purging kegs
    Using a Flow Stopper to fill kegs

    CO2 pressure may be too high. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this for more info

    Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Refer to to fix over-carbonated beer

    Pouring too slowly

    CO2 pressure may be too low. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this for more info

    Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved.

    Beer is too foamy/frothy

    Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Typically most beers in a short draw system are served at approx. 10-12psi. Refer to to fix over-carbonated beer

    Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can partially freeze the beer in the line. This creates turbulence in the line which can cause excess foam. Ensure the beer lines are not in contact with the cold plate.

    Beer may be too warm. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator or leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled

    Beer does not have enough head

    Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved. Please refer to this for more info

    Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer may be too cold.

    (Homebrew) Beer may not have much head. Not all beer styles produce a lot of head - this may be due to the grist of the particular brew or possibly a brewing technique affected the head

    No beer comes out of tap

    Lines or connections may be blocked. If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the PRV. Remove the liquid post with a socket or spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post

    The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can freeze the beer in the line and partially or completely block the flow. Ensure the lines do not come into contact with the cold plate

    CO2 cylinder may be empty. If there is insufficient CO2 to pressurise the head space of the keg then beer will not pour. Replace or refill the CO2 cylinder if empty

    Keg may be frozen. If the Set Point is too low or there is an issue with the temp probe calibration, the keg(s) may freeze. Check and correct the and Set Point of the kegerator

    Beer is too warm

    Kegerator may not be cold enough. Check and of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour

    Keg may not be cold enough. Leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled. This can take up to 24 hours (for example) with a room temperature 50L keg

    Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

    Font not cool enough. Direct the Font Fan tubing to the top of the font. Cut the Font Fan tubing to the correct length. Cut the tubing at a 45° angle to ensure it remains unobstructed. Ensure the fan is turned on

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    Gas Issues & Gas Leaks

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    CO2 Cylinder is empty

    Cylinder may be used up. It takes approx 6g of CO2 to dispense 1L of beer at normal serving pressure. Thus, a 2.6kg CO2 cylinder will dispense approx. 8 x 50L kegs. More CO2 will be used if also carbonating the kegs. Refill the CO2 cylinder when empty

    Possible Gas Leak. Perform an to check for potential CO2 leaks

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    Kegerator cooling issues

    Problem
    Possible Cause and Solution

    Kegerator not cooling to set point temperature

    Insufficient clearance. A minimum of 100mm clearance is required on each side of the kegerator to ensure adequate heat dissipation for the condensers. Move the kegerator into open space to improve cooling efficiency

    Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Door left open/not closed properly. If the door is not properly closed or misaligned the kegerator may not cool adequately. Ensure the door is closed and aligned properly

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    General Troubleshooting

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    Sides of kegerator are extremely warm

    This is normal. The heat generated during refrigerant cooling is radiated from the left and right hand side of the kegerator. During normal operation these can get quite warm/hot. This is typically more apparent when the kegerator is cooling from ambient (so the compressor will be working harder and for longer). NOTE: It is vital that this unit has a minimum of 100mm clearance on each side for adequate cooling performance

    Cannot adjust Set Point Temperature

    Child Lock engaged. These have a built in Child Lock. , press and hold the Warmer button for 5 seconds until the display flashes (the displayed number is the current Set Point)

    Excessive noise from fan

    Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up there is likely also ice in the fan housing. The fan lades will hit this when spinning causing excessive noise. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Black substance under cold plate

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    Kegerator Noise

    Kegerators are not domestic fridges and thus will make noises that are quite different to a standard domestic fridge. A gurgling or similar noise is quite common, and not considered unusual. The kegerators use a highly efficient refrigerant gas which can sound like gurgling. This is often more noticeable when the fridge is empty or the kegerator is brand new. Any noises are often reduced once the kegerator is filled with kegs due to the large thermal mass of the kegs.

    Refrigerant noise is often more noticeable in a new kegerator, as it can take time for the coolant to settle.

    To avoid excessive refrigerant noise, it is vital to leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least 24 hours after transit.

    In addition, if tipping the kegerator over (to install castors, for example) the kegerator must be tipped towards the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues.

    Leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least one hour before switching on after installing castors or tipping the kegerator for any other reason.

    If the fan is making excessive noise refer to General Troubleshooting

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    Beer Line Length Guide

    Internal Line DIameter
    Suggested Beer Line Length

    4mm

    1.5 metres – 2 metres

    5mm

    2 metres – 3 metres

    6.35mm

    3 metres – 4 metres

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    How To Fix An Over Carbonated Keg

    If your beer is foaming after checking CO2 pressure, beer line length and kegerator temperature, then possibly the beer is over-carbonated. If this is the gas, then the carbonation level of the beer in the keg will need to be reduced in order to get a good pour.

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    19L Corny Keg

    19L Cornelius Kegs have a PRV (Pressure Relief Valve) which makes releasing excess pressure quite easy. TO fix an over-carbonated 19L keg (or any homebrew keg with a PRV such as a 20L OXEBAR kegarrow-up-right) follow these steps:

    1. Disconnect the gas line to the keg

    2. Pull the PRV to vent all headspace pressure

    3. Wait a couple of hours and then repeat. DO not reconnect the gas line until the desired carbonation level has dropped

    This process can be sped up if the keg is removed from the kegerator and allowed to come to room temperature - CO2 will come out of solution faster at room temperatures. You can also vent the PRV, then close the PRV and shake the keg for 30 seconds, then vent it again. This will help force CO2 out of solution. Please note that this can cause beer or foam to spray from the PRV when venting, so proceed with caution.

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    Commercial Keg

    Commercial kegs such as 20L, 30L or 50L kegs which are connected to the beer and gas lines by a coupler do not have a PRV, so it is a bit trickier to vent excess carbonation.

    If the beer is only slightly over carbonated, the easiest way to reduce carbonation is to turn off the CO2 cylinder valve and pour beer as normal. CO2 will come out of solution as the headspace pressure is purged. This will take a while however, depending on the level of over-carbonation.

    To speed this up, remove the keg from the kegerator to allow it to come to room temperature. CO2 will come out of solution faster when the beer is warm.

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    Carbonation Chart

    This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

    KegLand Carbonation Chart

    Pouring too quickly

    Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Display Set Point or (in Programming Mode) select Paramater of confirm operation

    Begin Manual Defrost Cycle

    Increase displayed value or (in Programming Mode) cycle through displayed values

    Decrease displayed value or (in Programming Mode) cycle through displayed values

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    Display Legend

    LED
    MODE
    DESCRIPTION

    On

    Compressor enabled

    Flashing

    Compressor Delay active

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    Operation

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    Viewing the Set Point

    Push theButton - this will display the current Set Point Temperature

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    Adjusting the Set Point Temperature

    To Adjust the Set Point Temperature

    1. Hold theButton for 3 seconds until the display shows the current Set Point and the °C or °F symbol starts flashing

    2. Use the or buttons to change the Set Point Temperature

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    Starting a manual Defrost Cycle

    Press theManual Defrost Button for more than 2 seconds to start a defrost cycle manually. The Defrost indicator will illuminate

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    Programming Mode

    The Dixell Controller has several advanced programabble features that can be tailired for individual situtations. In most ases, the default values will suit. However, as this is a commercial unit, we recommend programming the Defrost Cycle to a suitable length and interval to avoid ice build up. If ice is allowed to build up inside the compressor housing, this will negatively affect performance and potentially void warranty.

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    Enter Programming Mode

    1. Enter the Programming mode by pressing the Button and or buttons for 3 seconds. The °C or °F symbol will start flashing

    2. Select the required parameter using theor buttons

    3. When the desired parameter is displayed, press the Button to display the current stored value of the parameter

    4. Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter

    5. Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter

    6. To exit Programming Mode, press the Button and thebutton or wait for 15 seconds without pushing any buttons. This revert the controller.

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    Adjusting Parameters

    The following parameters can be selected and adjusted in Programming Mode. To adjust any parameter, enter Programming Mode and navigate to the desired parameter

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    Adjust Hysteresis

    Hysteresis is the allowed differential from the Set Point Temperature before the compressor (cooling) operates. Thus, if the Set Point Temperature is 2°C and the Hysteresis is 2°C then the compressor will operate when the internal temperature reads 4°C, and it will continue to operate until the Set Point Temperature of 2°C is reached. The default hysteresis is 2°C, which is appropriate for most circumstances.

    Note: Decreasing the hysteresis can increase power consumption

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    To Adjust the Hysteresis [Hy]

    1. Enter Programming Mode and navigate to Hy using theor buttons

    2. The Differential Range can be adjusted between 0.1-25°C or 1-45°F. The default is 4°C

    3. Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Hysteresis

    4. Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter

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    Adjust Minimum Set Point [LS]

    1. Enter Programming Mode and navigate to LS using theor buttons

    2. The Minimum Set Point can be adjusted down to -55°C or -67°F. The default is 0°C

    3. Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Minimum Set Point

    4. Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter

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    Adjust Maximum Set Point [US]

    1. Enter Programming Mode and navigate to US using theor buttons

    2. The Maximum Set Point can be adjusted up to 99°C or °F. The default is 10°C

    3. Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Maximum Set Point

    4. Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter

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    Temperature Probe Calibration [ot]

    If there is a large variance between the displayed temperature (IE the temperature of the internal temperature probe and the actual internal temperature of the kegerator (as measureed by a calibrated thermometer) then the Temperature Offset can be adjusted from -9.9°C to +9.9°C

    A Temperature Offset will offset the displayed temperature by the entered amount.

    Thus, if the displayed temperature is 2°C but the actual internal temperature is 4°C, and offset of +2°C is required.

    Note: In most cases this is not necessary to be adjusted. There will be minor temperature differences in the kegerator due to airflow etc. This may also be pre-adjusted in the factory.

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    To Adjust the Temperature Probe Offset [ot]

    1. Enter Programming Mode and navigate to ot using theor buttons

    2. The Probe Calibration Offset can be adjusted from -9.9°C to +9.9°C. This may be at a value other than 0°C due to factory calibration.

    3. Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Probe Calibration Offset

    4. Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter

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    Change Display Units (Celsius/Fahrenheit) [CF]

    1. Enter Programming Mode and navigate to CF using theor buttons

    2. Use theor buttons to cycle the display between Cesius (°C) and Fahrenheit (°F)

    3. Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter

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    Defrost Cycle Adjustments

    The Grand Deluxe 3 range are commercial units. As such, they have very powerful compressors. It is important that an adequate Defrost Cycle is programmed in to ensure that ice does not build up on the cooling fins. Failure to program an adequate defrost cycle can reduce the performance of the unit and may also void warranty.

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    Defrost Interval (interval between defrost cycles) [id]

    • Enter Programming Mode and navigate to id using theor buttons

    • The Defrost Interval can be adjusted from 0-99 hours. The default is 6

    • Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Defrost Interval

    • Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter

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    Maximum defrost length [Nd]

    • Enter Programming Mode and navigate to Nd using theor buttons

    • The Maximum defrost length can be adjusted from 0-99 minutes. The default is 20

    • Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Defrost length

    • Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter

  • WATER TEST Once rinsed and cleaned, we recommend filling your conical with water and familiarizing yourself with its operations prior to your first use.

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    First Time Working With TC Clamps?

    • Before you tighten down TC clamps, make sure the gasket is seated correctly into both flanges.

    • Once the gasket is in place, loosen the clamp so it can be fitted around the flange ends.

    • You do not need to use any tools for leverage when tightening TC clamps. Hand tightening is enough for a secure, leak‑proof connection.

    WARNING: ALWAYS RELEASE PRESSURE from the fermenter before removing any TC connection, fitting, or accessory connected to the Fermenter. Read "RELEASING PRESSURE" below for how to release pressure from your Fermenter.

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    X3 Parts List

    ITEM
    DESCRIPTION
    QTY

    A

    4" Pressure Pack Lid

    1

    B

    4" TC Clamp

    1

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    IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION WARNING

    Failure to follow these warnings could result in serious injury or death.

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    GENERAL PRECAUTIONS

    • Follow all instructions and warnings provided with cleaning agents when cleaning and sanitizing Fermenter.

    • Do not pick up Fermenter when full.

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    PRESSURE HAZARDS

    • Do not alter or change the Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) built into the lid cap.

    • Always use an approved CO2 regulator with a functional low-pressure gauge. Never exceed 15 PSI.

    • During fermentation, never close off/cap your X3 except when using the BrewBuilt Kit for Fermenting Under Pressure.

    • When the optional BrewBuilt Flex Chamber is installed, always keep the bottom butterfly valve open (see Flex Chamber section).

    • Use a mesh bag to contain hops, oak chips, or other loose additions to prevent clogging blowoff and airlock.

    • Do not place pellet hops, whole hops, oak chips, or other items directly into the fermenter.

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    ASSEMBLING THE X3 CONICAL

    1

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    Feet

    Install the 3/8" leveling feet (qty 4) to the base as required for stable placement and leveling.

    2

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    Blowoff

    Place a 1.5" TC gasket into an open blow-off port on the conical dome and fasten the Blowoff U Barb with a 1.5" TC clamp, ensuring that the U Barb is pointing downward off the side of the conical. Slide ½" Silicone tubing over the barbed side of the U Barb. It’s easiest to start with one side and then work it around until the barbs are fully covered.

    3

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    Thermowell

    Install the 1.5" TC thermowell into the designated lid or body port and secure with proper gasket and clamp.

    4

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    Sample Valve

    Place a 1.5" TC Gasket and Sample Valve into the open lower port on the front cone section and fasten using a 1.5" TC clamp. Make sure the Sample Valve is closed by turning it clockwise until it stops.

    5

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    Butterfly Valve

    The Butterfly Valve opens in one direction, be sure to install it so the valve handle opens downward away from the conical bottom. Place 3" TC Gasket and Butterfly Valve on the bottom port of the conical and fasten in place using a 3" TC clamp.

    6

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    8" PRV Lid Cap

    Place the large 8" TC gasket and Lid Cap into the open port on the dome. Fasten using the 3 piece 8" TC clamp, being careful on installation to keep parts aligned until tightened down to help ensure a complete seal.

    7

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    End Caps

    Place a 1.5" TC gasket into the open 1.5" TC port on the conical dome and fasten an end cap with a 1.5" TC clamp. Follow the same process to attach the other 1.5" end cap to the last open port on the front of the cone, as well as the two additional ports on the PRV Lid Cap. If not using a Heating Element (sold separately), then install a 2” gasket and end cap onto the side port on the cone section. Fasten with a 2" TC clamp.

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    BrewBuilt X3 Volume & Dimensions Guide

    file-pdf
    297KB
    X3 Volume-Dims-Chart.pdf
    PDF
    arrow-up-right-from-squareOpen
    or
    and a
    . If space is limited a
    cylinder and a
    are great options.

    There are two easy ways to transfer your beer under pressure. The first step is to sanitise and purge the keg to be filled with CO2.

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    Sanitising and Purging Kegs

    1. Once the keg has been cleaned and rinsed, completely fill the keg with sanitiser solution such as StellarSan diluted to the correct ratio

    2. Invert the keg for 120 seconds, then put the right way up to make sure that all surfaces some into contact with the sanitiser

    3. Connect the keg to CO2 at around 10psi. Pull the PRV a couple of times to purge the small amount of headspace

    4. Next we need to push the sanitiser out of the keg. Ideally connect the full keg to an empty, clean keg. Connect the two Liquid (Out) Posts with a short length of line. Put a Spunding Valve on the Gas Post of the empty keg. Use this to vent pressure in the empty keg at around 5psi. The pressure differential will push the sanitiser from the full keg to the empty keg

    5. If you do not have an empty keg then the sanitiser can be transferred into any vessel of around 20L, or simply emptied into the sink.

    6. Once the transfer is complete, the empty keg will now be sanitised and purged of O2. It will also have some residual pressure which is ideal for transferring from the FermZilla

    A FOBS (Foam On Beer) detectorarrow-up-right can also be repurposed to detect sanitiser rather than beer - check out this video. It is a great way to automate this process.

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    Transferring Finished Beer Under Pressure

    Before transferring the finished beer into a keg, we want to ensure that it is completely fermented. Taking a gravity reading over three consecutive is is the best way to ensure this. If the reading is stable for three consecutive days we can be sure that the fermentation is finished.

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    Cold Crashing Before Transfer

    Before transferring the completed beer, it is ideal to cold crash the beer.

    Cold crashing is quite simple if you have temperature control for your FermZilla. Simply set the temperature to -1-2°C (or as low as you can if it will not go this low). Once the desired cold crash temperature has been achieved, leave the finished beer at this temperature for 2-4 days. This will 'cold crash' the finished beer. Cold crashing helps a lot with getting solids such as hop matter, yeast and other solids in suspension to drop out of the beer. It also helps to compact the trub in the fermenter. Cold crashing is therefore very beneficial for transferring a clean beer into the keg, minimising trub in the keg.

    If you cannot cold crash that is OK. The integrated filter on the floating dip tube will assist greatly in preventing hop matter etc from being transferred into the keg.

    IMPORTANT: Before cold crashing, you must add pressure to the FermZilla. Positive pressure of approximately 10psi is required. before cold crashing. This is because as the beer gets chilled, CO2 in the headspace will be absorbed into solution. If there is not sufficient pressure (CO2) in the head space, this can cause negative pressure in the FermZilla which can cause the tank to be deformed once the atmospheric pressure is higher than the internal pressure.

    Ideally, hooking the FermZilla to CO2 at around 10psi when cold crashing will prevent this, and also help to carbonate the beer before it is transferred.

    To transfer the finished beer using pressure you will need a transfer line (a short length of line with a liquid disconnect on each end) and a Spunding Valve, as well as a purged, empty keg.

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    Pressure Transfer

    Following the guide to Sanitising and Purging Kegs, you will have a sanitised, O2 free keg with a small amount of residual pressure in it.

    1. Connect the FermZilla to a regulated source of CO2. Set the regulator to ~10psi

    2. Turn the handle of the Spunding Valve clockwise (so that it does not let out pressure). Put the Spunding Valve on the Gas In Post of the sanitised keg

    3. Adjust the Spunding Valve until it is venting at a pressure slightly lower than the pressure in the FermZilla (~7psi). Starting the transfer with a small pressure difference will help to minimise foaming issues

    4. Connect the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to the Liquid Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the )

    5. The pressure differential will 'push' the finished beer into the keg

    6. Once the transfer is under way, you can adjust the Spunding Valve down to about 5psi. The greater pressure differential will speed up the transfer process

    7. Once the transfer is complete, disconnect the transfer line from both posts. Remove the Spunding Valve from the keg. Remove the gas line from the FermZilla

    8. Congratulations! The finished beer is now kegged and ready to go. It should now be p[laced in a kegerator or similar ready for dispensing. If it was fermented and cold crashed under pressure then it will already be partially or completely carbonated. Connect the keg to CO2 at 10-12psi to complete carbonation if required

    Pressure Transfer Setup | FermZilla

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    Closed Loop (Gravity) Transfer

    Another method of pressure transferring the completed beer is a Closed Loop Gravity Transfer. This method is very useful if you wish to do a completely closed transfer (whereby no CO2 is vented during the process). This can be beneficial for super oppy beers as no hop aroma will be 'blown off' during the transfer process.

    Another benefit of a closed transfer is that no additional CO2 is required - the residual pressure in the FermZIlla should be sufficient.

    A Closed Loop transfer is effectively a siphon. Thus, the keg must be lower than the FermZilla for the transfer to complete.

    Following the guide to Sanitising and Purging Kegs, you will have a sanitised, O2 free keg with a small amount of residual pressure in it.

    1. Ensure that there is at least 5psi (ideally ~10psi) pressure in the FermZilla

    2. Position the FermZilla and the keg so that the FermZilla is higher than the keg

    3. Connect the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to the Liquid Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the Big Jumperarrow-up-right)

    4. Provided there is less pressure in the keg than the FermZilla, beer will start to transfer. If beer does not begin to flow, pull the PRV of the keg to lower the pressure in the keg until the transfer begins

    5. Once the transfer is underway, connect the Gas Post of the FermZilla to the Gas Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the ). This will keep the pressures equalised between the FermZilla and the keg, enabled the transfer to complete as a siphon

    6. Once the transfer is complete, disconnect the transfer line from both liquid posts. Remove the gas line from the FermZilla and the keg

    7. Congratulations! The finished beer is now kegged and ready to go. It should now be p[laced in a kegerator or similar ready for dispensing. If it was fermented and cold crashed under pressure then it will already be partially or completely carbonated. Connect the keg to CO2 at 10-12psi to complete carbonation if required

    Closed Loop Transfer | FermZilla

    NOTE: There are several ways to either stop the transfer automatically once the keg is full, or alternatively to monitor the process so that it is easy to determine when to stop the transfer.

    A duotight Flow Stopperarrow-up-right is an easy and inexpensive way to automatically stop the transfer. Simply place the Flow Stopper on the Gas Post of the target keg (you can use a longish length of line in order to add a Spunding Valve to this as well).

    A simple method is to place the keg on Digital Home Brew Scalesarrow-up-right before filling. TARE the weright to zero once everything is assembled, and stop filling at around 18.5kg - this will ensure the keg is filled below the gas dip tube.

    If the beer has been cold crashed prior to transfer, then you can use the condensation line on the keg as a guide.

    For a more precise guide for transferring cold crashed beer, a Cold Activated Keg Filler Stickerarrow-up-right is a great way to help gauge fill volume during the transfer.

    Using a FOBS to automate purging kegs
    Using a Flow Stopper to fill kegs
    2.6kgarrow-up-right
    6kg CO2 Cylinderarrow-up-right
    MK5 Regulatorarrow-up-right
    KegLand Branded Sodastreamarrow-up-right
    Mini 360 regulatorarrow-up-right

    Troubleshooting

    KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Troubleshooting

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    Beer is not pouring or not pouring well

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    Pouring too quickly

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    Gas Issues & Gas Leaks

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

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    Kegerator cooling issues

    Problem
    Possible Cause and Solution

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    General Troubleshooting

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

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    Beer Line Length Guide

    Internal Line DIameter
    Suggested Beer Line Length

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    How To Fix An Over Carbonated Keg

    If your beer is foaming after checking CO2 pressure, beer line length and kegerator temperature, then possibly the beer is over-carbonated. If this is the gas, then the carbonation level of the beer in the keg will need to be reduced in order to get a good pour.

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    19L Corny Keg

    19L Cornelius Kegs have a PRV (Pressure Relief Valve) which makes releasing excess pressure quite easy. TO fix an over-carbonated 19L keg (or any homebrew keg with a PRV such as a ) follow these steps:

    1. Disconnect the gas line to the keg

    2. Pull the PRV to vent all headspace pressure

    3. Wait a couple of hours and then repeat. DO not reconnect the gas line until the desired carbonation level has dropped

    This process can be sped up if the keg is removed from the kegerator and allowed to come to room temperature - CO2 will come out of solution faster at room temperatures. You can also vent the PRV, then close the PRV and shake the keg for 30 seconds, then vent it again. This will help force CO2 out of solution. Please note that this can cause beer or foam to spray from the PRV when venting, so proceed with caution.

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    Commercial Keg

    Commercial kegs such as 20L, 30L or 50L kegs which are connected to the beer and gas lines by a coupler do not have a PRV, so it is a bit trickier to vent excess carbonation.

    If the beer is only slightly over carbonated, the easiest way to reduce carbonation is to turn off the CO2 cylinder valve and pour beer as normal. CO2 will come out of solution as the headspace pressure is purged. This will take a while however, depending on the level of over-carbonation.

    To speed this up, remove the keg from the kegerator to allow it to come to room temperature. CO2 will come out of solution faster when the beer is warm.

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    Carbonation Chart

    This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

    General Use

    SANITISE — Always sanitise your Conical before filling it with wort. This includes opening your sample valve and dump ports to ensure sanitizer makes contact with every nook 'n cranny. We recommend Star San or a similar sanitizer. Never use a bleach solution as bleach will cause pitting and corrosion on the surface of the stainless steel.

    FILLING — Your conical can be filled by dumping wort through the top, or pumped in via the sample valve.

    WARNING: Do not overfill your conical past the maximum volumes listed below. Excess volume during fermentation can cause fermentation material called Krausen to clog the blowoff and airlock causing over-pressurization of the conical.

    MAXIMUM FILL LEVELS:

    • 7 Gallon X3 - 5.5 gallons liquid

    • 14 Gallon X3 - 11 gallons liquid

    • 25 Gallon X3 - 21.5 gallons liquid

    • 38 Gallon X3 - 33 gallons liquid

    FERMENTATION

    • With the blow-off barb and silicone blow-off hose connected, place the end of the silicone blow-off tubing into a bucket filled with water.

    • We prefer silicone tubing to a rigid stainless blow-off as silicone tubing is easier to remove and clean between batches and offers flexibility for blow-off location.

    WARNING: During fermentation, never close off/cap your X3 except when using the BrewBuilt Kit for Fermenting Under Pressure. This includes capping towards the end of fermentation!

    • If you wish to add pellet hops, whole hops, oak, or any other loose material to the fermentation, we recommend using a mesh bag. Boil the mesh bag before use to ensure it's sanitised.

    WARNING: Do not place pellet hops, whole hops, oak chips, or other items directly into the fermenter. Loose material can clog the blowoff and airlock causing over-pressurization of the conical to occur. Use a mesh bag to contain these types of materials

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    TEMP CONTROL

    Controlling fermentation temperatures is one of the most important things you can do to make a better beer. The Jacketed X3 Unitank is constructed with a stainless steel external welded ‘jacket’ for chilled liquid from a glycol chiller to flow through and cool your brew. This not only allows for easy temperature control without any additional hardware to clean, but performs double duty in helping insulate your conical further as well. Use is extremely simple, we sell & recommend our Insulated Tubing Kit which includes insulated tubing sets, auto-shutoff Quick Disconnects, as well as the TC fittings needed to connect to your Jacketed X3. This is a great option as it keeps your glycol from heating up on the way to your fermenter, & also provides an easy connection point that seals on both sides, so neither your lines nor your conical will leak fluid when disconnected. While you can always put your fermenter inside of a fridge or other temperature controlled environment, the external jacket will provide a clean and easy means of maintaining your desired temperature

    PLEASE NOTE: This unit comes with the jacketed exchanger, but still relies on a chilled liquid source for cooling. You will need a Glycol Chiller such as our in order to cool the liquid which will then cool your fermentation.

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    DUMPING YEAST AND TRUB

    One of the other most significant benefits of a Conical Fermenter is the ability to dump yeast & trub from the bottom port. This couldn’t be easier with the 2" TC Butterfly Valve on the bottom of your conical. Another added advantage is being able to harvest your yeast for use in future batches. Whether you’re dumping trub, hops, or yeast, you will want to guide that slurry into a drain or receiving vessel like a bucket or jar. Be sure to spray the Butterfly Valve down with sanitizer before dumping. Also, remember that you will need to open one of the ports on the top of the conical to allow air to replace the liquid flowing out the bottom. Another option is the BrewBuilt Flex Chamber which connects to the bottom of the conical and allows you to collect and dump yeast and trub. Learn more about using the Flex Chamber in the X3 accessories section of this manual.

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    TRANSFERRING FINISHED BEER

    Racking your beer with the sample port is as easy as hooking up some sanitized tubing and opening the valve. Remember that you will need to either open one of the ports on the top of the conical to allow air to replace the liquid that is flowing out. To transfer out of your X3 using CO2 pressure, see the section under Pressure Package below.

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    USING YOUR X3 ACCESSORIES

    Your X3 Jacketed Uni comes with additional accessories including the BrewBuilt Flex Chamber and Pressure Pack. You will find instructions for these products below.

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    THE FLEX CHAMBER

    WARNING When the optional BrewBuilt Flex Chamber is installed, always keep the bottom butterfly valve open, allowing CO2 to be released. Failure to keep the valve open could cause the Flex Chamber to become over-pressurized and explode. When ready to remove the Flex Chamber, depressurize the system with the butterfly valve open. After relieving all pressure in the system, you can close the butterfly valve and safely remove the Flex Chamber.

    The Flex Chamber attaches directly to the 2" butterfly dump valve and can be used for removing trub, harvesting yeast, and many other tasks.

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    Preparing your Flex Chamber for use each time

    1

    Soak or spray the Flex Chamber Collection Jar and all parts (caps, gaskets, clamps, etc.) with sanitizer before assembling and attaching it to your conical dump port.

    2

    Assemble the Flex Chamber by threading the caps onto the threaded ports.

    3

    TIP: When connecting the Flex Chamber to a full X3 Conical, understand displacement concepts: the empty Flex Chamber contains gas that may be sent up through your beer. If used post-fermentation, flush with CO2 to avoid oxygen exposure (see Flushing the Flex Chamber with CO2).

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    COLLECTING & DUMPING TRUB WITH THE FLEX CHAMBER

    The ability to remove trub and hop sediment is one of the key advantages of a conical fermenter. With the butterfly valve open and the Flex Chamber attached, trub separates directly into the Flex Chamber, which can then be easily removed. Follow the process outlined next.

    1. If you are using the conical with the Pressure Pack lid, make sure the entire conical system has been depressurized and that the bottom butterfly valve is in the open position. For instructions on releasing pressure see the section below titled “Releasing Pressure”.

    2. When you are sure the system has been depressurized, close the butterfly valve at the bottom of the conical.

    3. Place a bowl or small bucket below the Flex Chamber to collect drips and un-clamp the Flex Chamber from the butterfly valve.

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    FLUSHING THE FLEX CHAMBER WITH CO2

    1

    Soak or spray the Flex Chamber and all parts (caps, gaskets, clamps, etc.) with sanitizer before assembling and attaching it to your conical dump port.

    2

    Attach the Flex Chamber Collection Jar to the bottom of the butterfly valve, keeping the butterfly valve closed. Remove the lower black side cap and install the KG500 ball lock adapter. Slightly loosen the top black cap on the Flex Chamber so CO2 can escape while flushing.

    3

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    PRESSURE PACKAGE

    WARNING If sealed, the fermenter can be pressurized due to CO2 production in fermentation or the introduction of compressed gas. Incorrect use can lead to fittings being launched with great force causing serious injury or death. Follow these precautions:

    • Before removing any TC fittings or accessories, release all pressure by opening the PRV.

    • Do not overfill past maximum volumes.

    • Do not place loose additions directly into the fermenter; use a mesh bag.

    The Pressure Pack, specifically designed to work with BrewBuilt X3 Conical Unitanks, unlocks many possibilities. Apply low pressure before cooling to eliminate sucking oxygen back in. Use it to grab a sample or transfer finished beer to a keg in a true oxygen-free environment. The Clear Float allows sampling or transferring of the clearest possible beer from the top down! In this guide. Please read and follow the additional instructions that come with your Pressure Pack Kit.

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    INSTALLATION

    • Assemble the Pressure Pack lid per the diagram included with the kit.

    • DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE on threaded body connects; they seal with the included O-rings.

    • When attaching the Pressure Pack lid to your X3 conical, ensure the TC gasket is seated correctly, then tighten the TC clamp. TIP: A welded U-Hook on the bottom of the Pressure Pack Lid can be used to hang drawstring bags for flavoring additions.

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    Applying Pressure (first test & practice)

    First, take a moment and read the warnings above. For safety, we always recommend the first pressure test be made while the conical is filled with water. After the conical is filled with water, replace the u-shaped blowoff with an included TC end cap. Before connecting CO2 pressure be sure you have a working, accurate regulator with a low-pressure gauge.

    We recommend setting your regulator to 1–2 psi to start with and always less than 15 psi. Connect your gas-in ball lock QD on your CO2 draft system to the gas-in body connect located on the Pressure Pack. The gasin body connect has a notch on the side, while the beverage-out body connect does not. With 1-2 psi applied to the conical, practice releasing the pressure by unthreading the PRV cap.

    Read the section on releasing pressure slowly as instructed in the section ‘Releasing Pressure’ below

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    TRANSFERRING AND SAMPLING

    The bev-out fitting is equipped with a unique floating dip tube that will pull beer from the top rather than the middle or bottom of the conical. We recommend using a ball lock jumper, a section of beer line with a beverage-out QD at both sides, to transfer beer from your X3 to the bottom of your keg. When applying pressure for sampling or transferring, start with a low pressure and increase only as needed. Keep in mind that your X3 Uni and Pressure Pack lid are rated at 15 psi, and the PRV will start releasing pressure around this point.

    WARNING: Never apply more than 15 PSI to your X3.

    TIP: Filling your keg from the bottom up will keep splashing to a minimum as beer will flow down the beverage dip tube and gently fill the keg from the bottom up. Lastly, pull up the PRV ring on the keg and set it in the open position to allow air (or CO2 if you prepurged the keg) to escape as your fresh beer flows in.

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    RELEASING PRESSURE

    WARNING Before removing any TC fitting or accessory, you must first release all pressure from your BrewBuilt Fermenter.

    • Pull the ring on the Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) built into the Lid Cap. Slowly pull until you hear CO2 hissing from the PRV.

    • When the hissing stops, slowly unthread the PRV assembly. If you hear additional CO2 while unthreading, stop and wait until hissing stops.

    • When no CO2 is released, slowly remove the PRV completely to ensure all pressure is relieved.

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    TRANSFER CLEAR BEER TO KEG UNDER PRESSURE

    • Push finished beer into a keg using CO2 so it never becomes exposed to oxygen; use the Clear Float to transfer clearest beer.

    • NOTE: you will need a (beverage tubing with bev-out ball lock connectors at both ends).

    Procedure:

    1

    Fill your keg with sanitiser solution. Push the sanitizer out using CO2. Open the keg pressure relief valve to let CO2 exit the keg during filling.

    2

    Attach your CO2 tank to the gas-in post on your Pressure Pack lid and set it to around 10–12 psi.

    3

    Be sure to release any pressure from inside your X3 before opening it for cleaning.

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    FERMENTING UNDER PRESSURE

    WARNING Follow all special warnings and instructions that come with the optional BrewBuilt Kit for Fermenting Under Pressure. Do not pressure ferment without using the optional Kit for Fermenting Under Pressure.

    • To ferment under pressure or capture CO2 at the end of fermentation, you must use the optional BrewBuilt Kit for Fermenting Under Pressure.

    • The optional kit includes a commercial-grade pressure relief that connects to the 1.5" TC port on the lid and an adjustable spunding valve to set a safe fermentation pressure.

    • With the kit installed, three safety relief valves exist: the standard PRV welded into the PRV Lid Cap, the commercial 1.5" TC relief valve, and the PRV on the Spunding Valve.

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    TEMPERATURE CONTROL

    Your new X3 Jacketed is constructed with an integral cooling layer. Using the secondary section of stainless steel layered on the cylinder of the unit, you can flow glycol or a cooled water source around your fermentation, cooling it as needed. We recommend an IceMaster series Glycol Chiller, combined with a Insulated Tubing Kit for the ultimate in temperature control. For highest efficiency performance we recommend hooking up your cold glycol “in” feed to the lower port of the jacket, as shown in the image below. When using an Icemaster Glycol Chiller, plug the thermal probe from the IceMaster directly into the thermowell installed on the Conical body. You can then adjust the Set Point on the IceMaster to your desired beer temperature. This will turn the IceMaster’s recirculation pump on or off depending on whether your beer needs to lower temperature.

    HAVE QUESTIONS? If you have any questions, please contact our customer service team:

    • Email:

    Spray sanitiser into the closed butterfly valve on your conical dump port as well as the top of the Flex Chamber and its TC gasket. Fasten the Flex Chamber to the butterfly valve with a 3" TC clamp.
    Set the regulator on your CO2 tank to its lowest possible setting (e.g., 1–2 psi) and connect your Ball Lock Gas QD to the KG500 ball lock adapter.
    4

    Allow gas to flow out of the Flex Chamber for a few seconds to ensure all the oxygen has been flushed. Tighten the black cap. You can replace the KG500 with the black cap or leave it in place for fermentation.

    Do not alter/change the Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) built into the Lid Cap.
  • Pressurize with compressed gas only with the BrewBuilt Kit for Fermenting Under Pressure.

  • Always use an approved CO2 regulator with a functional low-pressure gauge. Never exceed 15 PSI.

  • During fermentation, never close off/cap your X3 except when using the BrewBuilt Kit for Fermenting Under Pressure.

  • When the optional Flex Chamber is installed, always keep the bottom butterfly valve open.

  • Only then is it safe to begin removing fittings or accessories.
    Attach the Corny Keg Ball Lock Jumper Line to the bev-out post on your Pressure Pack lid. Once hooked up, beer will begin flowing from the pressurized X3 Unitank into the unpressurized keg.
    4

    Once transfer finishes, unhook the bev-out and gas-in connectors. Pressurize your keg.

    The fermentation kit includes a no-foam krausen reducer (CellarScience® Foam-Axe Part# AD105A) to reduce the chance krausen could enter any PRVs.

    JoinTech Fermentation Glycol Chiller with Digital Control | 2 Pump Model | G20arrow-up-right
    Corny Keg Ball Lock Jumper Linearrow-up-right
    [email protected]envelope

    Not calibrated properly. If the kegerator is not cooling adequately but the compressor is cycling at the Set Point temperature the kegerator may require Calibration.

    Hot environment. If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system

    Kegerator is too cold

    Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform Offset Calibration to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

    Set Point temperature may be incorrect. Check the Set Point temperature. For best results set this to 2°C. Setting too low a temperature may cause freezing or performance issues

    This is excess insulation. This is not uncommon in new kegerators after use. Excess foam insulation may drip from behind the cold plate. This is normal and nothing to worry about - simply clean with a damp microfibre cloth.

    Loose wiring. It is possible for the lead to the fan to become slightly loose and contact the blades causing noise. Remove the fan housing and reposition the wire to prevent it from contacting the blades

    No castor wheel screws

    These are pre-installed. The castor wheel screws are installed in the underneath of the kegerator and simply need to be unscrewed with a 5/16" socket or wrench, or Philips driver

    Ice build up on cold plate

    Moisture or humidity ingress. If the door is left open or the seals are damaged or dirty then ice can build up on the cold plate. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    EE Error

    This is an electrical fault. This can be caused by a faulty Temperature Probe (Thermistor) or a loose connection or damaged or faulty connection. Try replacing the Temperature Probe. Inspect the board for loose or damaged connections

    Front display flashing

    Board Failure. This can indicate a failure of the front LCD Temperature Control boardarrow-up-right or the Main Circuit Boardarrow-up-right. Both boards are designed for easy replacement

    No power to kegerator

    The circuit may have tripped. Check that the beaker has not tripped. If it has, remove all other appliances form the circuit, reset the breaker and try again

    Board failure. This can indicate a failure of the front LCD Temperature Control boardarrow-up-right or the Main Circuit Boardarrow-up-right. Both boards are designed for easy replacement

    Water is leaking from kegerator

    Melted ice build up. If there is too much water, moisture or humidity ingress in the kegerator, the ice build up can overwhelm the evaporator plate at the rear of the kegerator. Defrost the kegerator (if necessary) by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    this chart
    Carbonation Chart
    this guide
    Carbonation Chart
    this chart
    this guide
    this chart
    Carbonation Chart
    this chart
    Increase the Set Point of the kegerator
    calibration
    adjust the Set Point
    Offset Calibration
    Isolation Test
    To adjust the Set Point temperature

    C

    4" TC Gasket

    1

    D

    8" TC Clamp

    1

    E

    8" TC Gasket

    1

    F

    8" PRV Lid Cap

    1

    G

    1.5" Blow-Off Barb

    1

    H

    Silicone Blow-Off Tube

    1

    I

    1.5" TC Clamp

    7

    J

    1.5" TC Gasket

    7

    K

    1.5" TC End Cap

    4

    L

    Conical Body

    1

    M

    1.5" TC Thermowell

    1

    N

    1.5" TC Sample Valve

    1

    O

    2" TC Gasket

    1

    P

    2" TC Clamp

    1

    Q

    2" TC End Cap

    1

    R

    3" TC Gasket

    2

    S

    3" TC Clamp

    2

    T

    3" Butterfly Valve

    1

    U

    Neoprene Jacket

    7

    V

    Flex Chamber Collection Jar

    1

    W

    3/8" Leveling Foot

    4

    Big Jumperarrow-up-right
    Big Jumperarrow-up-right

    Not calibrated properly. If the kegerator is not cooling adequately but the compressor is cycling at the Set Point temperature the kegerator may require .

    Hot environment. If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system

    Kegerator is too cold

    Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

    Set Point temperature may be incorrect. . For best results set this to 2°C. Setting too low a temperature may cause freezing or performance issues

    EE Error

    This is an electrical fault. This can be caused by a faulty Temperature Probe (Thermistor) or a loose connection or damaged or faulty connection. Try replacing the Temperature Probe. Inspect the board for loose or damaged connections

    Water is leaking from kegerator

    Melted ice build up. If there is too much water, moisture or humidity ingress in the kegerator, the ice build up can overwhelm the evaporator plate at the rear of the kegerator. Defrost the kegerator (if necessary) by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    CO2 pressure may be too high. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info

    Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Refer to this guide to fix over-carbonated beer

    Pouring too slowly

    CO2 pressure may be too low. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info

    Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved.

    Beer is too foamy/frothy

    Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Typically most beers in a short draw system are served at approx. 10-12psi. Refer to this guide to fix over-carbonated beer

    Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can partially freeze the beer in the line. This creates turbulence in the line which can cause excess foam. Ensure the beer lines are not in contact with the cold plate.

    Beer may be too warm. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator or leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled

    Beer does not have enough head

    Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info

    Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer may be too cold. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator

    (Homebrew) Beer may not have much head. Not all beer styles produce a lot of head - this may be due to the grist of the particular brew or possibly a brewing technique affected the head

    No beer comes out of tap

    Lines or connections may be blocked. If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the PRV. Remove the liquid post with a socket or spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post

    The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can freeze the beer in the line and partially or completely block the flow. Ensure the lines do not come into contact with the cold plate

    CO2 cylinder may be empty. If there is insufficient CO2 to pressurise the head space of the keg then beer will not pour. Replace or refill the CO2 cylinder if empty

    Keg may be frozen. If the Set Point is too low or there is an issue with the temp probe calibration, the keg(s) may freeze. Check and correct the calibration and Set Point of the kegerator

    Beer is too warm

    Kegerator may not be cold enough. Check and adjust the Set Point of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour

    Keg may not be cold enough. Leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled. This can take up to 24 hours (for example) with a room temperature 50L keg

    Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform Offset Calibration to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

    Font not cool enough. Direct the Font Fan tubing to the top of the font. Cut the Font Fan tubing to the correct length. Cut the tubing at a 45° angle to ensure it remains unobstructed. Ensure the fan is turned on

    CO2 Cylinder is empty

    Cylinder may be used up. It takes approx 6g of CO2 to dispense 1L of beer at normal serving pressure. Thus, a 2.6kg CO2 cylinder will dispense approx. 8 x 50L kegs. More CO2 will be used if also carbonating the kegs. Refill the CO2 cylinder when empty

    Possible Gas Leak. Perform an Isolation Test to check for potential CO2 leaks

    Kegerator not cooling to set point temperature

    Set Point may be too high. Check and adjust the Set Point of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour

    Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Front vents may be covered. The UnderCover kegerator is designed to be built into a typical 600mm cabinet and thus does not require celarance at the sides or rear. The front vents require ventilation. Ensure that these are not covered or cooling performance and warranty may be affected

    How to adjust Set Point Temperature

    Press the Up or Down buttons to select the desired et Point. Press the SET button to save the Set Point

    Excessive noise from fan

    Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up there is likely also ice in the fan housing. The fan lades will hit this when spinning causing excessive noise. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Loose wiring. It is possible for the lead to the fan to become slightly loose and contact the blades causing noise. Remove the fan housing and reposition the wire to prevent it from contacting the blades

    Ice build up on cold plate

    4mm

    1.5 metres – 2 metres

    5mm

    2 metres – 3 metres

    6.35mm

    3 metres – 4 metres

    20L OXEBAR kegarrow-up-right
    KegLand Carbonation Chart

    Door left open/not closed properly. If the door is not properly closed or misaligned the kegerator may not cool adequately. Ensure the door is closed and aligned properly

    Moisture or humidity ingress. If the door is left open or the seals are damaged or dirty then ice can build up on the cold plate. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    On

    Defrost in progress

    On

    Fan enabled

    Flashing

    Fan on delay after Defrost

    OR

    On

    Current Temperature

    OR

    Flashing

    Programming Mode Active

    Troubleshooting

    Series X Plus User Guide | Troubleshooting

    hashtag
    Beer is not pouring or not pouring well

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    hashtag
    Gas Issues & Gas Leaks

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    hashtag
    Kegerator cooling issues

    Problem
    Possible Cause and Solution

    hashtag
    General Troubleshooting

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    hashtag
    Kegerator Noise

    Kegerators are not domestic fridges and thus will make noises that are quite different to a standard domestic fridge. A gurgling or similar noise is quite common, and not considered unusual. The kegerators use a highly efficient refrigerant gas which can sound like gurgling. This is often more noticeable when the fridge is empty or the kegerator is brand new. Any noises are often reduced once the kegerator is filled with kegs due to the large thermal mass of the kegs.

    Refrigerant noise is often more noticeable in a new kegerator, as it can take time for the coolant to settle.

    To avoid excessive refrigerant noise, it is vital to leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least 24 hours after transit.

    In addition, if tipping the kegerator over (to install castors, for example) the kegerator must be tipped towards the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues.

    Leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least one hour before switching on after installing castors or tipping the kegerator for any other reason.

    If the fan is making excessive noise refer to

    hashtag
    Beer Line Length Guide

    Internal Line DIameter
    Suggested Beer Line Length

    hashtag
    How To Fix An Over Carbonated Keg

    If your beer is foaming after checking CO2 pressure, beer line length and kegerator temperature, then possibly the beer is over-carbonated. If this is the gas, then the carbonation level of the beer in the keg will need to be reduced in order to get a good pour.

    hashtag
    19L Corny Keg

    19L Cornelius Kegs have a PRV (Pressure Relief Valve) which makes releasing excess pressure quite easy. TO fix an over-carbonated 19L keg (or any homebrew keg with a PRV such as a ) follow these steps:

    1. Disconnect the gas line to the keg

    2. Pull the PRV to vent all headspace pressure

    3. Wait a couple of hours and then repeat. DO not reconnect the gas line until the desired carbonation level has dropped

    This process can be sped up if the keg is removed from the kegerator and allowed to come to room temperature - CO2 will come out of solution faster at room temperatures. You can also vent the PRV, then close the PRV and shake the keg for 30 seconds, then vent it again. This will help force CO2 out of solution. Please note that this can cause beer or foam to spray from the PRV when venting, so proceed with caution.

    hashtag
    Commercial Keg

    Commercial kegs such as 20L, 30L or 50L kegs which are connected to the beer and gas lines by a coupler do not have a PRV, so it is a bit trickier to vent excess carbonation.

    If the beer is only slightly over carbonated, the easiest way to reduce carbonation is to turn off the CO2 cylinder valve and pour beer as normal. CO2 will come out of solution as the headspace pressure is purged. This will take a while however, depending on the level of over-carbonation.

    To speed this up, remove the keg from the kegerator to allow it to come to room temperature. CO2 will come out of solution faster when the beer is warm.

    hashtag
    Carbonation Chart

    This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the regulator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

    Troubleshooting

    Series 4 User Guide | Troubleshooting

    hashtag
    Beer is not pouring or not pouring well

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    Pouring too quickly

    hashtag
    Gas Issues & Gas Leaks

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    hashtag
    Kegerator cooling issues

    Problem
    Possible Cause and Solution

    hashtag
    General Troubleshooting

    Problem
    Possible Cause & Solution

    hashtag
    Kegerator Noise

    Kegerators are not domestic fridges and thus will make noises that are quite different to a standard domestic fridge. A gurgling or similar noise is quite common, and not considered unusual. The kegerators use a highly efficient refrigerant gas which can sound like gurgling. This is often more noticeable when the fridge is empty or the kegerator is brand new. Any noises are often reduced once the kegerator is filled with kegs due to the large thermal mass of the kegs.

    Refrigerant noise is often more noticeable in a new kegerator, as it can take time for the coolant to settle.

    To avoid excessive refrigerant noise, it is vital to leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least 24 hours after transit.

    In addition, if tipping the kegerator over (to install castors, for example) the kegerator must be tipped towards the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues.

    Leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least one hour before switching on after installing castors or tipping the kegerator for any other reason.

    If the fan is making excessive noise refer to

    hashtag
    Beer Line Length Guide

    Internal Line DIameter
    Suggested Beer Line Length

    hashtag
    How To Fix An Over Carbonated Keg

    If your beer is foaming after checking CO2 pressure, beer line length and kegerator temperature, then possibly the beer is over-carbonated. If this is the gas, then the carbonation level of the beer in the keg will need to be reduced in order to get a good pour.

    hashtag
    19L Corny Keg

    19L Cornelius Kegs have a PRV (Pressure Relief Valve) which makes releasing excess pressure quite easy. TO fix an over-carbonated 19L keg (or any homebrew keg with a PRV such as a ) follow these steps:

    1. Disconnect the gas line to the keg

    2. Pull the PRV to vent all headspace pressure

    3. Wait a couple of hours and then repeat. DO not reconnect the gas line until the desired carbonation level has dropped

    This process can be sped up if the keg is removed from the kegerator and allowed to come to room temperature - CO2 will come out of solution faster at room temperatures. You can also vent the PRV, then close the PRV and shake the keg for 30 seconds, then vent it again. This will help force CO2 out of solution. Please note that this can cause beer or foam to spray from the PRV when venting, so proceed with caution.

    hashtag
    Commercial Keg

    Commercial kegs such as 20L, 30L or 50L kegs which are connected to the beer and gas lines by a coupler do not have a PRV, so it is a bit trickier to vent excess carbonation.

    If the beer is only slightly over carbonated, the easiest way to reduce carbonation is to turn off the CO2 cylinder valve and pour beer as normal. CO2 will come out of solution as the headspace pressure is purged. This will take a while however, depending on the level of over-carbonation.

    To speed this up, remove the keg from the kegerator to allow it to come to room temperature. CO2 will come out of solution faster when the beer is warm.

    hashtag
    Carbonation Chart

    This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

    Calibration
    Offset Calibration
    Check the Set Point temperature

    Hot environment. If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system

    Kegerator is too cold

    Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

    Set Point temperature may be incorrect. . For best results set this to 2°C. Setting too low a temperature may cause freezing or performance issues

    Loose wiring. It is possible for the lead to the fan to become slightly loose and contact the blades causing noise. Remove the fan housing and reposition the wire to prevent it from contacting the blades

    No castor wheel screws

    These are pre-installed. The castor wheel screws are installed in the underneath of the kegerator and simply need to be unscrewed with a 5/16" socket or wrench, or Philips driver

    Ice build up on cold plate

    Moisture or humidity ingress. If the door is left open or the seals are damaged or dirty then ice can build up on the cold plate. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    EE Error

    This is an electrical fault. This can be caused by a faulty Temperature Probe (Thermistor) or a loose connection or damaged or faulty connection. Try replacing the Temperature Probe. Inspect the board for loose or damaged connections

    Front display flashing

    Board Failure. This can indicate a failure of the front or the . Both boards are designed for easy replacement

    No power to kegerator

    The circuit may have tripped. Check that the beaker has not tripped. If it has, remove all other appliances form the circuit, reset the breaker and try again

    Board failure. This can indicate a failure of the front or the . Both boards are designed for easy replacement

    Water is leaking from kegerator

    Melted ice build up. If there is too much water, moisture or humidity ingress in the kegerator, the ice build up can overwhelm the evaporator plate at the rear of the kegerator. Defrost the kegerator (if necessary) by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Pouring too quickly

    Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    CO2 pressure may be too high. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info

    Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Refer to this guide to fix over-carbonated beer

    Pouring too slowly

    CO2 pressure may be too low. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info

    Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved.

    Beer is too foamy/frothy

    Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Typically most beers in a short draw system are served at approx. 10-12psi. Refer to this guide to fix over-carbonated beer

    Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can partially freeze the beer in the line. This creates turbulence in the line which can cause excess foam. Ensure the beer lines are not in contact with the cold plate.

    Beer may be too warm. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator or leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled

    Beer does not have enough head

    Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info

    Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer may be too cold. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator

    (Homebrew) Beer may not have much head. Not all beer styles produce a lot of head - this may be due to the grist of the particular brew or possibly a brewing technique affected the head

    No beer comes out of tap

    Lines or connections may be blocked. If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the PRV. Remove the liquid post with a socket or spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post

    The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can freeze the beer in the line and partially or completely block the flow. Ensure the lines do not come into contact with the cold plate

    CO2 cylinder may be empty. If there is insufficient CO2 to pressurise the head space of the keg then beer will not pour. Replace or refill the CO2 cylinder if empty

    Keg may be frozen. If the Set Point is too low or there is an issue with the temp probe calibration, the keg(s) may freeze. Check and correct the calibration and Set Point of the kegerator

    Beer is too warm

    Kegerator may not be cold enough. Check and adjust the Set Point of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour

    Keg may not be cold enough. Leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled. This can take up to 24 hours (for example) with a room temperature 50L keg

    Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform Offset Calibration to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

    Font not cool enough. Direct the Font Fan tubing to the top of the font. Cut the Font Fan tubing to the correct length. Cut the tubing at a 45° angle to ensure it remains unobstructed. Ensure the fan is turned on

    CO2 Cylinder is empty

    Cylinder may be used up. It takes approx 6g of CO2 to dispense 1L of beer at normal serving pressure. Thus, a 2.6kg CO2 cylinder will dispense approx. 8 x 50L kegs. More CO2 will be used if also carbonating the kegs. Refill the CO2 cylinder when empty

    Possible Gas Leak. Perform an Isolation Test to check for potential CO2 leaks

    Kegerator not cooling to set point temperature

    Insufficient clearance. A minimum of 100mm clearance is required on each side of the kegerator to ensure adequate heat dissipation for the condensers. Move the kegerator into open space to improve cooling efficiency

    Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Door left open/not closed properly. If the door is not properly closed or misaligned the kegerator may not cool adequately. Ensure the door is closed and aligned properly

    Sides of kegerator are extremely warm

    This is normal. The heat generated during refrigerant cooling is radiated from the left and right hand side of the kegerator. During normal operation these can get quite warm/hot. This is typically more apparent when the kegerator is cooling from ambient (so the compressor will be working harder and for longer). NOTE: It is vital that this unit has a minimum of 100mm clearance on each side for adequate cooling performance

    Cannot adjust Set Point Temperature

    Child Lock engaged. These have a built in Child Lock. To adjust the Set Point temperature, press and hold the Warmer button for 5 seconds until the display flashes (the displayed number is the current Set Point)

    Excessive noise from fan

    Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up there is likely also ice in the fan housing. The fan lades will hit this when spinning causing excessive noise. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Black substance under cold plate

    4mm

    1.5 metres – 2 metres

    5mm

    2 metres – 3 metres

    6.35mm

    3 metres – 4 metres

    General Troubleshooting
    20L OXEBAR kegarrow-up-right
    KegLand Carbonation Chart

    Not calibrated properly. If the kegerator is not cooling adequately but the compressor is cycling at the Set Point temperature the kegerator may require .

    This is excess insulation. This is not uncommon in new kegerators after use. Excess foam insulation may drip from behind the cold plate. This is normal and nothing to worry about - simply clean with a damp microfibre cloth.

    Hot environment. If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system

    Kegerator is too cold

    Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

    Set Point temperature may be incorrect. . For best results set this to 2°C. Setting too low a temperature may cause freezing or performance issues

    Loose wiring. It is possible for the lead to the fan to become slightly loose and contact the blades causing noise. Remove the fan housing and reposition the wire to prevent it from contacting the blades

    No castor wheel screws

    These are pre-installed. The castor wheel screws are installed in the underneath of the kegerator and simply need to be unscrewed with a 5/16" socket or wrench, or Philips driver

    Ice build up on cold plate

    Moisture or humidity ingress. If the door is left open or the seals are damaged or dirty then ice can build up on the cold plate. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    EE Error

    This is an electrical fault. This can be caused by a faulty Temperature Probe (Thermistor) or a loose connection or damaged or faulty connection. Try replacing the Temperature Probe. Inspect the board for loose or damaged connections

    Front display flashing

    Board Failure. This can indicate a failure of the front or the . Both boards are designed for easy replacement

    No power to kegerator

    The circuit may have tripped. Check that the beaker has not tripped. If it has, remove all other appliances form the circuit, reset the breaker and try again

    Board failure. This can indicate a failure of the front or the . Both boards are designed for easy replacement

    Water is leaking from kegerator

    Melted ice build up. If there is too much water, moisture or humidity ingress in the kegerator, the ice build up can overwhelm the evaporator plate at the rear of the kegerator. Defrost the kegerator (if necessary) by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    CO2 pressure may be too high. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info

    Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Refer to this guide to fix over-carbonated beer

    Pouring too slowly

    CO2 pressure may be too low. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info

    Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved.

    Beer is too foamy/frothy

    Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Typically most beers in a short draw system are served at approx. 10-12psi. Refer to this guide to fix over-carbonated beer

    Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can partially freeze the beer in the line. This creates turbulence in the line which can cause excess foam. Ensure the beer lines are not in contact with the cold plate.

    Beer may be too warm. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator or leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled

    Beer does not have enough head

    Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info

    Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter

    Beer may be too cold. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator

    (Homebrew) Beer may not have much head. Not all beer styles produce a lot of head - this may be due to the grist of the particular brew or possibly a brewing technique affected the head

    No beer comes out of tap

    Lines or connections may be blocked. If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the PRV. Remove the liquid post with a socket or spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post

    The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can freeze the beer in the line and partially or completely block the flow. Ensure the lines do not come into contact with the cold plate

    CO2 cylinder may be empty. If there is insufficient CO2 to pressurise the head space of the keg then beer will not pour. Replace or refill the CO2 cylinder if empty

    Keg may be frozen. If the Set Point is too low or there is an issue with the temp probe calibration, the keg(s) may freeze. Check and correct the calibration and Set Point of the kegerator

    Beer is too warm

    Kegerator may not be cold enough. Check and adjust the Set Point of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour

    Keg may not be cold enough. Leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled. This can take up to 24 hours (for example) with a room temperature 50L keg

    Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform Offset Calibration to ensure the correct temperature is maintained

    Font not cool enough. Direct the Font Fan tubing to the top of the font. Cut the Font Fan tubing to the correct length. Cut the tubing at a 45° angle to ensure it remains unobstructed. Ensure the fan is turned on

    CO2 Cylinder is empty

    Cylinder may be used up. It takes approx 6g of CO2 to dispense 1L of beer at normal serving pressure. Thus, a 2.6kg CO2 cylinder will dispense approx. 8 x 50L kegs. More CO2 will be used if also carbonating the kegs. Refill the CO2 cylinder when empty

    Possible Gas Leak. Perform an Isolation Test to check for potential CO2 leaks

    Kegerator not cooling to set point temperature

    Insufficient clearance. A minimum of 100mm clearance is required on each side of the kegerator to ensure adequate heat dissipation for the condensers. Move the kegerator into open space to improve cooling efficiency

    Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Door left open/not closed properly. If the door is not properly closed or misaligned the kegerator may not cool adequately. Ensure the door is closed and aligned properly

    Sides of kegerator are extremely warm

    This is normal. The heat generated during refrigerant cooling is radiated from the left and right hand side of the kegerator. During normal operation these can get quite warm/hot. This is typically more apparent when the kegerator is cooling from ambient (so the compressor will be working harder and for longer). NOTE: It is vital that this unit has a minimum of 100mm clearance on each side for adequate cooling performance

    Cannot adjust Set Point Temperature

    Child Lock engaged. These have a built in Child Lock. To adjust the Set Point temperature, press and hold the Warmer button for 5 seconds until the display flashes (the displayed number is the current Set Point)

    Excessive noise from fan

    Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up there is likely also ice in the fan housing. The fan lades will hit this when spinning causing excessive noise. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty

    Black substance under cold plate

    4mm

    1.5 metres – 2 metres

    5mm

    2 metres – 3 metres

    6.35mm

    3 metres – 4 metres

    General Troubleshooting
    20L OXEBAR kegarrow-up-right
    KegLand Carbonation Chart

    Not calibrated properly. If the kegerator is not cooling adequately but the compressor is cycling at the Set Point temperature the kegerator may require .

    This is excess insulation. This is not uncommon in new kegerators after use. Excess foam insulation may drip from behind the cold plate. This is normal and nothing to worry about - simply clean with a damp microfibre cloth.

    Calibration
    Offset Calibration
    Check the Set Point temperature
    LCD Temperature Control boardarrow-up-right
    Main Circuit Boardarrow-up-right
    LCD Temperature Control boardarrow-up-right
    Main Circuit Boardarrow-up-right
    Calibration
    Offset Calibration
    Check the Set Point temperature
    LCD Temperature Control boardarrow-up-right
    Main Circuit Boardarrow-up-right
    LCD Temperature Control boardarrow-up-right
    Main Circuit Boardarrow-up-right