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KegLand Product Documentation | User Manuals | Guides
This is the new home for KegLand Product Docmentation
Series X Plus User Guide | Super Slim Font Kits
Series X Plus User Guide | Modular Font Kits
Series 4 User Guide | Single, Double & Triple Font Kit Assembly
KL15080 Series X User Guide | User Manual
Designed to be the most cost effective, efficient and reliable kegerator on the market. Rated to Climate Class T so it can handle Australian weather. Compact, but can easily hold 1 x 50L commercial keg or up to 4 x 19L corny kegs!
Compared to the KegLand Series 4, the Series X is:
10% more power efficient
15% faster cooling and better cooling in hotter climates
40% Thicker Side Walls for reduced heat ingress
15% More Energy Efficient
30% Larger Evaporator
25% Larger Condenser
15% Faster Cooling
Larger Font Fan
Larger, improved compressor
Internal LED light (Series X.1 and later)
2x KL10788 Carbonation Cap gas bulkhead threads as standard
FITS 4 UP TO 4 CORNY KEGS
Climate Class: T (Tropical)
Refrigerant: R600a
Rated Current: 0.80A
Power: 85 Watts
Capacity: 187L
Voltage: 220-240V
Hz: 50Hz
600mm wide
640mm deep
840mm high
890mm high with castors (fridge component only, not including font, guard rail or drip tray
Dimensioned drawings available here
Series X Plus User Guide | Installation Diagrams
Series 4 User Guide | Installation Diagrams
KL41652 KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Quick Start Guide
The KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator is designed to be installed snugly into a standard 600mm kitchen cavity.
Unlike most other kegerator models, this is custom designed to not require any space around it for ventilation, so can be installed completely flush into your cavity, for a smooth, entirly modern look!
This particular Kegerator uses a multitude of fans to suck and blow air to the front of the Kegerator allowing it to squeeze into the tightest of spaces.
To purchase a complete kegerator setup, custom configured with anywhere from 1 to 4 taps please use the Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator Homebrew Bar Kit Configurable Builder
KL08877 | KL08891 | KL32605 | KL32612 | Grand Deluxe 3 | Quick Start Guide
The Grand Deluxe 3 models are made and built tough for a commercial environment for your use in the man cave or small bar/cafe.
The two door Grand Deluxe 3 model can hold:
12 x 19L Cornelius Ball Lock Kegs OR 3 x 50L DIN type Kegs
or a mix and match of both to your liking. The three door Grand Deluxe 3 model can hold:
20 x 19L Cornelius Ball Lock Kegs OR 5 x 50L DIN type Kegs
or a mix and match of both to your liking.
The Grand Deluxe 3 range of commercial kegerators are Climate Class 4 rated, with 304 Stainless Steel Countertops with thick core foam to aid in temperature loss from your refrigerator. They have double glazed tempered safety glass with self-closing lockable doors as standard, and inbuilt countersunk stainless drip tray system with drainage tubes fitted.
Series X User Guide | Different Keg Types
When setting up a kegerator system at home, it is important to understand the differences between the two main types of keg on the market.
The different kegs require different gas and beer line fittings inside the kegerator. Other components of the kegerator (taps, font etc) are interchangeable. The way in which the beer line and gas line is attached to the keg is the main point of difference.
We divide kegerators into two types: setups and setups. Kegs in both types are available in multiple sizes.
It is possible to mix and match keg styles in the one kegerator, provided the kegs are small enough to fit. Simply use the correct connection (coupler or ball lock disconnects) on ach beer and gas line to allow this.
For example, you may wish to have a on tap, as well as in a 19L keg. In that case, one beer/gas line would be terminated with an A Type Coupler, and the other would have a gas and a liquid ball lock disconnect.
Choose the type of connector used to see how to set each gas line up
Series X User Guide | Installation Diagrams
KL19880 Series X Plus User Guide | User Manual
The Series X Plus is the best and most cost effective solution to dispense up to 2 x 50L kegs at one time!
Designed to be the most cost effective, efficient and reliable kegerator on the market. Rated to Climate Class T so it can handle Australian weather. Compact, but can easily hold 2 x 50L commercial keg or up to 8 x 19L corny kegs!
Compared to the KegLand Series 4, the Series X range is:
10% more power efficient
15% faster cooling and better cooling in hotter climates
40% Thicker Side Walls for reduced heat ingress
15% More Energy Efficient
30% Larger Evaporator
25% Larger Condenser
15% Faster Cooling
Larger Font Fan
Larger, improved compressor
2x KL10788 gas bulkhead fittings as standard
FITS UP TO 8 CORNY KEGS or 2 x 50L COMMERCIAL KEGS
Climate Class: T (Tropical)
Refrigerant: R600a
Rated Current: 0.90A
Power: 100 Watts
Capacity: 310L
Voltage: 220-240V
Hz: 50Hz
900mm wide
708mm deep
840mm high
890mm high with castors (fridge component only, not including font, guard rail or drip tray
Dimensioned drawings available
Series X Plus User Guide | Different Keg Types
When setting up a kegerator system at home, it is important to understand the differences between the two main types of keg on the market.
The different kegs require different gas and beer line fittings inside the kegerator. Other components of the kegerator (taps, font etc) are interchangeable. The way in which the beer line and gas line is attached to the keg is the main point of difference.
We divide kegerators into two types: setups and setups. Kegs in both types are available in multiple sizes.
It is possible to mix and match keg styles in the one kegerator, provided the kegs are small enough to fit. Simply use the correct connection (coupler or ball lock disconnects) on ach beer and gas line to allow this.
For example, you may wish to have a on tap, as well as in a 19L keg. In that case, one beer/gas line would be terminated with an A Type Coupler, and the other would have a gas and a liquid ball lock disconnect.
Choose the type of connector used to see how to set each gas line up
KL00093 Series 4 User Guide | User Manual
The KegLand Series 4 is a super budget friendly kegerator designed primarily for single tap setups with a 50L commercial keg. It can also hold up to 3 x 19L Cornelius Kegs.
Climate Class: T (Tropical)
Refrigerant: R600a
Refrigerant Amount: 40g
Rated Current: 0.80A
Power: 85 Watts
Capacity: 163L
Voltage: 220-240V
Hz: 50-60Hz
19L Ball Lock Kegs - Up to 3 9.5L Ball Lock Kegs - Up to 3 20L and 30L All Stainless Commercial Kegs - up to 2 x 20L kegs or 1 x 20L keg and 1 x 30L keg 50L Keg - 1
Please Note: Heavy Duty Castor Wheels are not compatible with the Series 4 Kegerator Base Fridge with Regulator. Check out the Kegerator for a unit which can be optionally installed with Heavy Duty Castor wheels.
600mm wide
640mm deep
840mm high
890mm high with castors (fridge component only, not including font, guard rail or drip tray)
Series 4 User Guide | Different Keg Types
When setting up a kegerator system at home, it is important to understand the differences between the two main types of keg on the market.
The different kegs require different gas and beer line fittings inside the kegerator. Other components of the kegerator (taps, font etc) are interchangeable. The way in which the beer line and gas line is attached to the keg is the main point of difference.
We divide kegerators into two types: setups and setups. Kegs in both types are available in multiple sizes.
It is possible to mix and match keg styles in the one kegerator, provided the kegs are small enough to fit. Simply use the correct connection (coupler or ball lock disconnects) on ach beer and gas line to allow this.
For example, you may wish to have a on tap, as well as in a 19L keg. In that case, one beer/gas line would be terminated with an A Type Coupler, and the other would have a gas and a liquid ball lock disconnect.
Choose the type of connector used to see how to set each gas line up
Grand Deluxe 3 | Installation Diagrams



















KL16049 | KL47340 | G20 - Glycol Chiller | User Guide
The Icemaster G20 is an efficient glycol chiller that has fantastic cooling performance.
It is compact, quiet and ideal for a domestic environment. It is powerful enough to chill well-insulated fermenters up to 200L in size or multiple smaller fermenters.
The G20 has 500watts of cooling power making it suitable for crash chilling even in hot ambient temperatures in your garage or brewery.
Refrigerant: r600a isobutane
Cooling Power: 500watts (0.67hp) (Rated at 22C)
Power Consumption: 155w
Tank: 16.42L
Max Head (per pump): 5meter
Max Flow (per pump): 600L/Hr
Output Barb Size (KL16049): To suit 10mm ID tube
Output Barbs (KL47364): Dry Break JoinTech 1/2" Male Fittings ~ Requires Dry Break Female JoinTechs for hosing (13mm ID)
Dimensions: 510mm x 300mm x 460mm (L x W x H)
Series X User Guide | Quick Start Guide
If kegerator has been moved/delivered do not turn it on unless it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours. Failure to do this will void warranty and may damage the kegerator. Leave the kegerator upright for at least 24 hours before plugging in mains power after receiving and unboxing
Only tip kegerator onto right hand side (as seen from the front), when installing castors etc. Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues
CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space
Never exceed 40psi in your keg system
Always flush chemicals from the beer line completely before tapping keg
Always check for gas leaks once the kegerator is set up
Ensure there is at least 100mm clearance on each side of the kegerator after installation. Failure to allow adequate clearance will impact cooling performance and void warranty
Please refer to this video for a detailed guide to setting up a kegerator.
For detailed, step by step instructions, read on!
Series X User Guide | Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects
There are two different styles of Cornelius kegs: Ball Lock and Pin Lock. Pin Lock kegs are not really in common use now. Any Cornelius style kegs purchased from KegLand will have Ball Lock fittings.
Ball Lock fittings can be identified by the posts on the keg or tapping head and require the use of Ball Lock Disconnects:
There are several types of Ball Lock keg available, including standard stainless 19L and 9.5L Cornelius Kegs, stainless Mini Kegs and also OXEBAR kegs in 20L, 8L and 4L sizes. If using Mini Kegs or 4L or 8L OXEBAR Kegs you will also need a ball lock tapping head.
To carbonate and dispense from a homebrew style keg you will need to use disconnects. These come in two different categories which are specific for ball-lock or pin-lock kegs. Balllock kegs require ball-lock disconnects and pin-lock kegs require pin-lock disconnects
Each keg requires a liquid disconnect (black) and a gas disconnect (grey). Due to the design of the posts on the keg a liquid disconnect can only be used on the black liquid (OUT) post and a gas disconnect can only be used on the grey gas (IN) post.
Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689 Tube Cutter
If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.
Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.
Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.
To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.
While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.
Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.
Series X User Guide | Font Kit Assembly
KegLand Kegerators can be configured with different font and tap options.
Depending on the kegerator, you can have from 1 - 8 taps, or possibly more with the Grand Deluxe range.
Fonts and taps can also have different configurations - you may chose standard stainless NukaTaps, the black Stealth Bomber NukaTaps or possibly you need Flow Control NukaTaps (if serving highly carbonated beverages, for example)
Fonts can be a standard tower configuration, a tee bar or a super slim tee bar type.
All KegLand Font Kits (as opposed to Font Only) include beer and gas line, shanks and duotight connectors (where necessary), standard black tap handles for NukaTaps and all required beer and gas line, as well as tee pieces to split the gas line as needed. A 7 in 1 tool for easy font and shank assembly is also required. The exact inclusions depend on the type of font and number of taps - please refer to the product page for the font kit for details.
Please refer to the guide below for the selected font kit assembly
Single Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit
Double Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit
Triple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit
Quadruple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit
Single Tap Black Phantom Font Kit
Double Tap Black Phantom Font Kit
Triple Tap Black Phantom Font Kit
Quadruple Tap Black Phantom Font Kit
4 Tap T-Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kit
6 Tap TT Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kit (only suitable for Series X Plus)
8 Tap TT Bar Brushed Stainless Font Kit (only suitable for Series X Plus)
Series X User Guide | Quad Font Kit Assembly
Remove the cap from the top of the font and attach the font to the top of the kegerator using four metric M5 stainless steel screws. The mounting points can be found on the inside of the font and can be attached using a long screwdriver, bit extender or flexible drill bit
Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue
Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font
Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank
Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.
Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines
Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator
Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a liquid ball lock disconnect or keg coupler
Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank
Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner
NOTE: It is easiest to attach the shanks in the order below:
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using this guide
Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end
Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew
Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees
Series 4 User Guide | Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects
There are two different styles of Cornelius kegs: Ball Lock and Pin Lock. Pin Lock kegs are not really in common use now. Any Cornelius style kegs purchased from KegLand will have Ball Lock fittings.
Ball Lock fittings can be identified by the posts on the keg or tapping head and require the use of Ball Lock Disconnects:
There are several types of Ball Lock keg available, including standard stainless 19L and 9.5L Cornelius Kegs, stainless Mini Kegs and also OXEBAR kegs in 20L, 8L and 4L sizes. If using Mini Kegs or 4L or 8L OXEBAR Kegs you will also need a ball lock tapping head.
To carbonate and dispense from a homebrew style keg you will need to use disconnects. These come in two different categories which are specific for ball-lock or pin-lock kegs. Balllock kegs require ball-lock disconnects and pin-lock kegs require pin-lock disconnects
Each keg requires a liquid disconnect (black) and a gas disconnect (grey). Due to the design of the posts on the keg a liquid disconnect can only be used on the black liquid (OUT) post and a gas disconnect can only be used on the grey gas (IN) post.
Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689 Tube Cutter
If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.
Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.
Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.
To remove EVABarrier froma duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.
While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.
Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.
Series 4 User Guide | Font Kit Assembly
KegLand Kegerators can be configured with different font and tap options.
Depending on the kegerator, you can have from 1 - 8 taps, or possibly more with the Grand Deluxe range.
Fonts and taps can also have different configurations - you may chose standard stainless NukaTaps, the black Stealth Bomber NukaTaps or possibly you need Flow Control NukaTaps (if serving highly carbonated beverages, for example)
Fonts can be a standard tower configuration, a tee bar or a super slim tee bar type.
All KegLand Font Kits (as opposed to Font Only) include beer and gas line, shanks and duotight connectors (where necessary), standard black tap handles for NukaTaps and all required beer and gas line, as well as tee pieces to split the gas line as needed. A 7 in 1 tool for easy font and shank assembly is also required. The exact inclusions depend on the type of font and number of taps - please refer to the product page for the font kit for details.
Please refer to the guide below for the selected font kit assembly
Single Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit
Double Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit
Triple Tap Brushed Stainless Font Kit
Single Tap Black Phantom Font Kit
KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Keg Types
When setting up a kegerator system at home, it is important to understand the differences between the two main types of keg on the market.
The different kegs require different gas and beer line fittings inside the kegerator. Other components of the kegerator (taps, font etc) are interchangeable. The way in which the beer line and gas line is attached to the keg is the main point of difference.
We divide kegerators into two types: Commercial (Brewery Made) Kegerator setups and Homebrew Kegerator setups. Kegs in both types are available in multiple sizes.
It is possible to mix and match keg styles in the one kegerator, provided the kegs are small enough to fit. Simply use the correct connection (coupler or ball lock disconnects) on ach beer and gas line to allow this.
For example, you may wish to have a TALOS keg of craft beer on tap, as well as on demand soda water in a 19L keg. In that case, one beer/gas line would be terminated with an A Type Coupler, and the other would have a gas and a liquid ball lock disconnect.
Choose the type of connector used to see how to set each gas line up
KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Installation
If kegerator has been moved/delivered do not turn it on unless it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours. Failure to do this will void warranty and may damage the kegerator. Leave the kegerator upright for at least 24 hours before plugging in mains power after receiving and unboxing
CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space
Never exceed 40psi in your keg system
Always flush chemicals from the beer line completely before tapping keg
Always check for gas leaks once the kegerator is set up
MK4 CO2 Type 30 Regulator
Black Reinforced Plastic Drip Tray
Font Plug
Swappable Door Hinges
Custom Adhesive Door Handle (Place the door handle either horizontal on top of the door, or vertical. The choice is yours for which aesthetic is most pleasing)
Climate Class: T (Tropical)
Refrigerant: R600a
Gas Amount: 25g
Rated Current: 1A
Power: 106 Watts
Fridge Capacity: 170L
Voltage: AC220V
Hz: 50Hz
Width - 600mm Height - 865mm (no castors) Depth - 600mm (640mm including handle and rear fittings) Download the drawings of this model here.
Designed to fit in a standard 600mm wide cavity
For a detailed guide on installing the UnderCover Kegerator into your cabinetry/indor or outdoor bar setup, please refer to this video:
Please note as that as this unit is designed to be built in it does not include castor wheels, a guard rail or CO2 cylinder bracket.
KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Tee Bar Font Kits
Remove the caps from the end of the fonts and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks
NOTE: Install shanks from the middle of the font outwards
Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue
Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font. Angling the shank off to the side slightly is generally easiest
Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank
Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.
Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines
Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator
Using the included M5 x 30mm bolts, mount the font onto the kegerator after feeding the lines through into the kegerator
Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a liquid ball lock disconnect or keg coupler
Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank
Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator.
Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end
Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew
Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees
KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Quad Font Kits
Remove the cap from the top of the font and attach the font to the top of the kegerator using four metric M5 stainless steel screws. The mounting points can be found on the inside of the font and can be attached using a long screwdriver, bit extender or flexible drill bit
Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue
Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font
Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank
Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.
Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines
Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator
Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a liquid ball lock disconnect or keg coupler
Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank
Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner
NOTE: It is easiest to attach the shanks in the order below:
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator.
Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end
Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew
Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees
Grand Deluxe 3 | Troubleshooting
Check that the pressure on the regulator is set to the correct PSI and that the keg is beer is not over carbonated. If the beer is over carbonated release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the pressure relief valve and then set the regulator to the correct PSI. Typically for most beers in a short draw system around 10-12psi will give a good pour
If the beer line is too short then it can pour with too much froth, consider increasing the length of your beer line. KL06224 4mm x 8mm EVABarrier will normally pour well at around 1.8-2m
If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To check for and fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the pressure relief valve. Remove the liquid post using the correct sized wrench/spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post
If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube(s) from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system
Place a jug of water in the fridge and measure the temperature of the water after 12 hours in the fridge to determine if the thermostat is reading the correct temperature. If this needs to be adjusted please refer to Temperature Calibration
Inspect inside the fan housing for ice build up. If there is visible ice build up run a manual defrost cycle by pressing theManual Defrost Button for more than 2 seconds to start a defrost cycle manually. The Grand Deluxe range are commercial kegerators with very powerful compressors. It is quite common to need to manually adjust the default Defrost Interval and Length settings to suit the conditions. Periodically inspect inside thew compressor housing for ice build up and increase the durtation cycle of the Defrost as required to prevent ice build up.
KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects
There are several types of Ball Lock keg available, including standard stainless 19L and 9.5L Cornelius Kegs, stainless Mini Kegs and also OXEBAR kegs in 20L, 8L and 4L sizes. If using Mini Kegs or 4L or 8L OXEBAR Kegs you will also need a ball lock tapping head.
To carbonate and dispense from a homebrew style keg you will need to use disconnects. These come in two different categories which are specific for ball-lock or pin-lock kegs. Balllock kegs require ball-lock disconnects and pin-lock kegs require pin-lock disconnects
Each keg requires a liquid disconnect (black) and a gas disconnect (grey). Due to the design of the posts on the keg a liquid disconnect can only be used on the black liquid (OUT) post and a gas disconnect can only be used on the grey gas (IN) post.
Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689 Tube Cutter
If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.
Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.
Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.
To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.
While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.
Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.
G20 Glycol Chiller | Heating Relay Instructions
All electrical works must be carried out or inspected by a licensed electrician
Each Temperature Controller has a Heating Relay as standard. This allows a heating device to be wired directly to the Temerpature Controller so that it can be turned on or off by the the controller.
This work must be performed by a licensed electrician.
The heating relay is rated to 240V
Unplug the power source for the heating device and the Glycol Chiller
Locate and cut the active wire to your heating device (see diagram). Most active wires are brown or red but this should be double checked with an electrician.
Divert the active wire into the blade connects (terminals 4 and 5 shown below)
Plug both the Glycol Chiller and heating device into mains power
NOTE: This is the same process for each temperature controller. So repeat this step to wire multiple controllers in the same way
KegLand is not liable for electrical work not performed by a licensed electrican
FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Dimensions
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions
KL15189 | KL15196 | FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | User Guide
The FermZilla All Rounder is the perfect fermentation vessel that can be used for fermenting under pressure, carbonating and dispensing. It's far more capable than the FermZilla Flat bottom but it's less complicated and less expensive than the Gen3 FermZilla Tri-Conical.
Just like the name says - this is the All Rounder!
Easy to Clean This fermenter is made from super smooth PET so it's easy to clean. Just use a small scoop of StellarClean (Powerful Brewery Wash) and wipe it clean after a 5 minute soak. No scrubbing necessary!
Large 120mm Opening The opening at the top is much larger then the older Snub Nose or other similar fermenters. This bad boy has a 120mm opening so even brewers with large arms can easily get into the top making cleaning even easier.
Pressure Rated This fermenter is rated up to 2.5bar so you can force carbonate just like a keg. You can use this fermenter for closed transfers and significantly reduce oxygen exposure.
Crystal Clear The wall of the All Rounder is crystal clear so you can see what's going on inside. This means you can see exactly what is happening at all stages during fermentation, which is a massive boon for new and experienced brewers!
Impermeable The PET plastic is not permeable like some other fermenters made from PP or HDPE. The fermenter wall is a much better gas barrier keeping your product fresher for longer, and will massively cut down on the potential for oxidation or infection
Brew with confidence in the new Tri-Clover FermZilla Range.
The FermZilla allows many of the benefits of much more expensive stainless conical fermenters but with the additional benefit of being able to see the fermentation process in action and also ferment at pressures up to 2.4bar. This is an incredible product at an extremely attractive price point in all the different sizes and models.
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions
Series X Plus User Guide | Cornelius Kegs
There are two different styles of Cornelius kegs: Ball Lock and Pin Lock. Pin Lock kegs are not really in common use now. Any Cornelius style kegs purchased from KegLand will have Ball Lock fittings.
Ball Lock fittings can be identified by the posts on the keg or tapping head and require the use of Ball Lock Disconnects:
There are several types of Ball Lock keg available, including standard stainless and Cornelius Kegs, and also OXEBAR kegs in . If using Mini Kegs or 4L or 8L OXEBAR Kegs you will also need a ball lock tapping head.
To carbonate and dispense from a homebrew style keg you will need to use disconnects. These come in two different categories which are specific for ball-lock or pin-lock kegs. Balllock kegs require ball-lock disconnects and pin-lock kegs require pin-lock disconnects
Each keg requires a and a . Due to the design of the posts on the keg a liquid disconnect can only be used on the black liquid (OUT) post and a gas disconnect can only be used on the grey gas (IN) post.
Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689
If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.
Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.
Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.
To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.
While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.
Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.
Series X Plus User Guide | Font KIt Assembly
KegLand Kegerators can be configured with different font and tap options.
Depending on the kegerator, you can have from 1 - 8 taps, or possibly more with the Grand Deluxe range.
Fonts and taps can also have different configurations - you may chose standard , the black or possibly you need (if serving highly carbonated beverages, for example)
Fonts can be a standard tower configuration, a tee bar or a super slim tee bar type.
All KegLand Font Kits (as opposed to Font Only) include beer and gas line, shanks and duotight connectors (where necessary), standard black tap handles for NukaTaps and all required beer and gas line, as well as tee pieces to split the gas line as needed. A 7 in 1 tool for easy font and shank assembly is also required. The exact inclusions depend on the type of font and number of taps - please refer to the product page for the font kit for details.
Please refer to the guide below for the selected font kit assembly
(only suitable for Series X Plus)
(only suitable for Series X Plus)
Series 4 User Guide | Quick Start Guide
If kegerator has been moved/delivered do not turn it on unless it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours. Failure to do this will void warranty and may damage the kegerator. Leave the kegerator upright for at least 24 hours before plugging in mains power after receiving and unboxing
Only tip kegerator onto right hand side (as seen from the front), when installing castors etc. Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues
CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space
Never exceed 40psi in your keg system
Always flush chemicals from the beer line completely before tapping keg
Always check for gas leaks once the kegerator is set up
Ensure there is at least 100mm clearance on each side of the kegerator after installation. Failure to allow adequate clearance will impact cooling performance and void warranty
Please refer to this video for a detailed guide to setting up a kegerator.
This video is specific to a Series X.1 kegerator, but is worth watching as it has a lot of up to date information about duotight fittings etc.
For detailed, step by step instructions, read on!
Series 4 User Guide | Leak & Pressure Testing
Performing a CO2 leak test is important to ensure that your system will hold pressure and that there are no leaks in any connections in the system.
If there are any leaks this can result in the CO2 cylinder becoming empty in a short period.
Initial pressure testing can be performed in two different ways. If leaks are detected an can help determine the location of he leak.
Wait for at least two hours then check the pressure reading on the right hand (low pressure) gauge of the regulator
If the pressure reading has not changed (so is still reading ~20psi) then there are no leaks in the system
If the pressure has dropped a noticeable amount then it is very likely there is a leak in the system. Use Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test to locate the leak. Note: Even if this test is passed it is quite a good idea to perform this test in any case
Using a soapy water solution (washing up liquid and water is perfect for this) in a spry bottle or simply dabbed on, check for leaks at all connections. The soapy water spray will slowly bubble if there are any leaks.
Connections to check include:
• The connection between the CO2 cylinder and the regulator • All duotight connections including the 8mm x FFL duotight connected to the regulator, ball lock disconnects and keg coupler, the 6.5mm x 8mm duotight reducers connected to the short shanks and the 8mm duotight tee pieces • Around ball lock disconnects and keg couplers when they are connected to the keg • Around the lid of a Cornelius keg • Make sure to remove the ball lock disconnects from the posts of the ball lock keg and check the post itself for leaks
IMPORTANT: Do not spray any duotight fittings with StellarSan or phosphoric acid solution to perform a leak test.
If any CO2 leaks are detected, if can be helpful to perform an Isolation Test to determine where the leak is in the system
Once the system is pressurised, isolate each part of the system.
Turn valve of CO2 cylinder fully off.
Fully unwind the (anti clockwise) the regulator knob
Remove Gas Disconnect from the keg
(If using) Remove Gas Disconnect from gas inlet of kegerator
(If possible) Weigh the CO2 cylinder
Wait at least 12 hours
After at least 12 hours, if there is a leak in the system we can determine roughly where the leak is after isolating
If the weight of the CO2 cylinder has gone down noticeably, the cylinder possibly has a leak
If the pressure on the regulator has gone down, the regulator, gas line or fittings may have a leak
Test the keg(s) by pulling the PRV. If no CO2 is released then the keg may have a leak.
Once the general location of the leak has been determined by isolation testing, perform a in order to locate the leak precisely.
NOTE: It is safe to submerge duotight fittings and EVABarrier in water when locating leaks. Regulators cannot be safely immersed
Series 4 User Guide | Operation
Cooler (Down) Button
Warmer (Up) Button
Temperature
Celsius/Fahrenheit Indicator
Fan Indicator
Celsius/Fahrenheit Button
Fan Button
To adjust the Set Point Temperature:
Press and hold the Up button for 5 seconds. The display will flash and show the current Set Point Temperature. This is a Child Safety Lock feature to prevent accidentally changing the Set Point Temperature.
Press the Up or Down buttons to modify and save the Set Point Temperature. When the display stops flashing the new Set Point Temperature will be saved.
NOTE: The Up or Down buttons must be pressed repeatedly to change the temperature. The temperature will not continue to change if the button is held down - this is a child lock feature.
To change the displayed temperature between Celsius and Fahrenheit press the °F/°C button. Press it again to revert to the previous units.
The fan is designed for continuous operation. This will help maintain a consistent temperature. In addition, directing the font fan conduit inside the font can assist with keeping the taps and beer lines cold, which helps to minimise 'first beer foam' issues. If desired the fan can be turned on and off manually using the Fan Button. When the fan is on, the fan icon will be displayed.
If there is a large variance between the displayed temperature (IE the temperature of the internal temperature probe and the actual internal temperature of the kegerator (as measured by a calibrated thermometer) then the Temperature Offset can be adjusted from -10°C to 10°C
A Temperature Offset will offset the displayed temperature by the entered amount.
Thus, if the displayed temperature is 2°C but the actual internal temperature is 4°C, an offset of +2°C is required.
Note: In most cases this is not necessary to be adjusted. There will be minor temperature differences in the kegerator due to airflow etc.
Press and hold the Up and Down buttons for approx 5 seconds - until the display flashes SC
Once the display flashes SC, release the Up or Down buttons and press the °F/°C button. This will display the current Offset Temperature (which should be 0°)
Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Temperature Offset (from 10°C to -10°C)
Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 5 seconds)
The display will revert to the current kegerator temperature. This will be different to the value displayed before the offset adjustment was made if the operation was performed correctly.
The exterior of the kegerator can be cleaned with a damp microfibre cloth and a mild spray cleaner. Stainless polish may be used on stainless surfaces (such as fonts etc). or solutions may also be used instead.
Monitor the evaporator plate (at the back of the kegerator on top of the compressor). In normal use this should not be filled with water as the heat generated by the compressor will evaporate normal levels of water. If there is excessive water in the evaporator plate or it is overflowing please refer to
The interior of the kegerator may be cleaned in the same manner. It is not uncommon for some mould to be present inside the kegerator due to the nature of use. If present, clean with a mild mould remover spray and a damp microfibre cloth. Be careful to not get mould spray on any fittings such as keg posts or disconnects.
KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Commercial Kegs & Couplers
Prior to attaching the keg coupler onto the keg make sure that a gas line is connected to the gas inlet and this gas line is connected to a regulator and a beer line is connected to the liquid outlet and this beer line is connected to a tap. Attaching the keg to the keg coupler is usually the last step of the kegerator setup.
Slide the keg coupler over the groove on the top of the keg then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg. NOTE: To fit a 50L keg with an A-type keg coupler into a kegerator or if your keg is a DIN style keg (tall skinny style) you will need to use a KL00390
Push the coupler into the opening of the spear and then rotate firmly clockwise to attach the coupler to the spear. Then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg.
More detailed instructions on how to assemble and operate a keg coupler can be seen in this video:
Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689
If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.
Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.
Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.
NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue
To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.
While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.
Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.
KegLand Commercial Couplers are supplied with duotight fittings that make connecting EVABarrier gas and beer line quite easy.
However, if you plan on switching couplers or wish to use an alternative connection method that allows a bit more customisation, we recommend replacing the duotight fittings with Ball Lock Posts. When adding Ball Lock Posts to a coupler setup, it is recommended to also add a KL00390 which will make it easier to fit a 50L keg.
You will also need a KL00840 and a KL00833 which will replace the duotight fittings on the coupler and allow you to use Ball Lock Disconnects on the beer and gas line instead
KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Font Kit Assembly
KegLand Kegerators can be configured with different font and tap options.
Depending on the kegerator, you can have from 1 - 8 taps, or possibly more with the Grand Deluxe range.
Fonts and taps can also have different configurations - you may chose standard , the black or possibly you need (if serving highly carbonated beverages, for example)
Fonts can be a standard tower configuration, a tee bar or a super slim tee bar type.
All KegLand Font Kits (as opposed to Font Only) include beer and gas line, shanks and duotight connectors (where necessary), standard black tap handles for NukaTaps and all required beer and gas line, as well as tee pieces to split the gas line as needed. A 7 in 1 tool for easy font and shank assembly is also required. The exact inclusions depend on the type of font and number of taps - please refer to the product page for the font kit for details.
Please refer to the guide below for the selected font kit assembly
KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Single, Double and Triple Font Kits
Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator.
Cut an approximately 1m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end
Cut this section into approx 2 x 50cm lengths
Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for beer or for
Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee
Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator.
Cut an approximately 1.5m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end
Cut this section into approx 3 x 50cm lengths
Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for beer or for
Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee
Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator.
Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end
Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for beer or for
Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee
KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Setup
Please refer to this video for a detailed guide to setting up a kegerator. This is for a Series X kegerator, but the specifics of font setup, balancing beer lines etc are exactly the same across kegerator models.
Remove all items from inside kegerator
Ensure all items have been included
Remove any protective plastic from the kegerator before first use
Check for any damage which has occurred during transit including any liquid or oil marks on the inside of the packaging
Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise
Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder
Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench
Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise
Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder
Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder using the knurled grip. MK5 Regulators can be hand tightened due to the new spigot seal design that easily compresses
The MK4 regulator comes as standard with a
Thread the KL06880 duotight fitting onto the regulator by hand, then tighten gently with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench. NOTE: DO not over tighten as this may cause the duotight fitting to split
Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut
Push the line firmly into the KL06880 duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)
The MK5 regulator comes as standard with an 8mm duotight ball valve and integrated check valve
Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut
Push the line firmly into the duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted fully (approx.22mm)
Ensure the ball valve is opened before using the MK5 Regulator
Please refer to the for a detailed guide on the different types of fonts
Please refer to the for assembly instructions for the different types of beer and gas connections
Please refer to the for details on getting the system balanced for a great pour
Series X Plus User Guide | Quad Font Kits
Remove the cap from the top of the font and attach the font to the top of the kegerator using four metric M5 stainless steel screws. The mounting points can be found on the inside of the font and can be attached using a long screwdriver, bit extender or flexible drill bit
Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to
Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue
Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font
Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank
Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.
Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines
Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator
Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a or
Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank
Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner
NOTE: It is easiest to attach the shanks in the order below:
Double check that the the 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line is securely connected to the or regulator
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using
Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end
Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for beer or for
Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees
KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Installation Diagrams
Grand Deluxe 3 | Specifications
IF FRIDGE HAS JUST BEEN MOVED DO NOT TURN ON UNLESS IT HAS BEEN STANDING UPRIGHT FOR ATLEAST 24 HOURS. FAILURE TO DO SO WILL VOID WARRANTY. STAND FRIDGE IN THE UPRIGHT POSITION FOR 24 HOURS BEFORE PLUGGING INTO MAINS POWER SOCKET
CO2 GAS CAN BE DANGEROUS. MAKE SURE TO ALWAYS USE CO2 IN A WELL VENTILATED SPACE.
ENSURE THERE IS A MINIMUM OF 100MM CLEARANCE ON THE LEFT HAND SIDE OF THE UNIT (ON THE COMPRESSOR SIDE). FAILURE TO PROVIDE ADEQUATE VENTILATION SPACE WILL REDUCE PERFORMANCE AND VOID WARRANTY
CLIMATE CLASS 4 - RECOMMENDED TO BE USED INSIDE AN AREA THAT DOES NOT EXCEED 30°c AND 55% RELATIVE HUMIDITY. IF USED OUTSIDE, NOTE THAT THE COMPRESSOR WILL OPERATE FOR LONGER INTERVALS AND DEFROST CYCLES WILL NEED TO BE ADJUSTED BASED ON TEMPERATURE/HUMIDITY LEVELS
THESE UNITS DO NOT HAVE HEATED DOORS. IN AREAS OF HIGH HUMIDITY THE DOORS CAN FROST OR PRODUCE CONDENSATION
NEVER EXCEED 40PSI ON YOUR KEG SYSTEM.
FLUSH OUT CHEMICALS FROM YOUR BEER LINE COMPLETELY BEFORE TAPPING KEG.
ALWAYS THOROUGHLY CHECK FOR GAS LEAKS ONCE YOU HAVE SET UP YOUR SYSTEM.
6 x Heavy Duty Castor Wheels and bolts
Rubberised wire racks (2 shelves two door models, 4 shelves in three door models)
Font fan conduit (single run for two door models, double run for three door models)
Inbuilt countersunk stainless drip tray system with drainage tubes fitted
Door keys
External: 1495mm (L) x 705mm (W) x 910 (H) [without 100mm castor wheels] Internal: 1160mm (L) x 550mm (D) x 780mm (H)
External: 2300mm (L) x 710mm (W) x 910 (H) [without 100mm castor wheels] Internal: 1970mm (L) x 550mm (D) x 780mm (H) Distance from the centre of the font holes: 714mm
Durable Dixell temperature controller.
r290 refrigerant gas. This is more electrically efficient, environmentally friendly and gives better cooling performance.
Embraco Compressor - EM2X3117U (Two Door), EM2X3125U (Three Door)
220V
304 Stainless Steel Countertops with thick core foam to aid in temperature loss from your refrigerator.
Black matte steel finish on the outside that has been chemically engineered with a vinyl substrate to prevent corrosion.
Double glazed tempered safety glass with self-closing lockable doors as standard.
Exterior LED light switch
Inbuilt countersunk stainless drip tray system with drainage tubes fitted. Font mounting hole(s) pre-fitted.
KL25898 | KL25904 | KL47296 | KL47302 | FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | User Guide
Now with 3 Inch Tri-Clover ferrule moulded into the tank and a 600mL Collection Container with a 3 Inch Tri-clover connection. Tri Clover fittings are the gold standard for sanitary design and effortless removal. This unit was born from customer feedback we received on the Gen 2 Model. No more complicated dump valve designs here, just simplicity.
Brew with confidence in the new Tri-Clover FermZilla Range.
The FermZilla allows many of the benefits of much more expensive stainless conical fermenters but with the additional benefit of being able to see the fermentation process in action and also ferment at pressures up to 2.4bar. This is an incredible product at an extremely attractive price point in all the different sizes and models.
YES, it is by far the easiest Conical PET fermenter to disassemble and clean! Simply release all pressure inside the vessel and detatch the tri clover clamps. All parts come apart easily and can be cleaned and sanitised individually with no effort.





















Single, Double & Triple Tower Style Font Kits
Quad Font Tower Style Kits
Tee Bar Font Kits










Single, Double & Triple Tower Style Font Kits

Commercial Kegs & Couplers
Homebrew Kegs & Disconnects

































Series X User Guide | Leak & Pressure Testing
Performing a CO2 leak test is important to ensure that your system will hold pressure and that there are no leaks in any connections in the system.
If there are any leaks this can result in the CO2 cylinder becoming empty in a short period.
Initial pressure testing can be performed in two different ways. If leaks are detected an Isolation Test can help determine the location of he leak.
Wait for at least two hours then check the pressure reading on the right hand (low pressure) gauge of the regulator
If the pressure reading has not changed (so is still reading ~20psi) then there are no leaks in the system
If the pressure has dropped a noticeable amount then it is very likely there is a leak in the system. Use Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test to locate the leak. Note: Even if this test is passed it is quite a good idea to perform this test in any case
Using a soapy water solution (washing up liquid and water is perfect for this) in a spry bottle or simply dabbed on, check for leaks at all connections. The soapy water spray will slowly bubble if there are any leaks.
Connections to check include:
• The connection between the CO2 cylinder and the regulator • All duotight connections including the 8mm x FFL duotight connected to the regulator, ball lock disconnects and keg coupler, the 6.5mm x 8mm duotight reducers connected to the short shanks and the 8mm duotight tee pieces • Around ball lock disconnects and keg couplers when they are connected to the keg • Around the lid of a Cornelius keg • Make sure to remove the ball lock disconnects from the posts of the ball lock keg and check the post itself for leaks
IMPORTANT: Do not spray any duotight fittings with StellarSan or phosphoric acid solution to perform a leak test.
If any CO2 leaks are detected, if can be helpful to perform an Isolation Test to determine where the leak is in the system
Once the system is pressurised, isolate each part of the system.
Turn valve of CO2 cylinder fully off.
Fully unwind the (anti clockwise) the regulator knob
Remove Gas Disconnect from the keg
(If using) Remove Gas Disconnect from gas inlet of kegerator
(If possible) Weigh the CO2 cylinder
Wait at least 12 hours
After at least 12 hours, if there is a leak in the system we can determine roughly where the leak is after isolating
If the weight of the CO2 cylinder has gone down noticeably, the cylinder possibly has a leak
If the pressure on the regulator has gone down, the regulator, gas line or fittings may have a leak
Test the keg(s) by pulling the PRV. If no CO2 is released then the keg may have a leak.
Once the general location of the leak has been determined by isolation testing, perform a Detergent Bubble Test in order to locate the leak precisely.
NOTE: It is safe to submerge duotight fittings and EVABarrier in water when locating leaks. Regulators cannot be safely immersed
Series X Plus User Guide | Leak & Pressure Testing
Performing a CO2 leak test is important to ensure that your system will hold pressure and that there are no leaks in any connections in the system.
If there are any leaks this can result in the CO2 cylinder becoming empty in a short period.
Initial pressure testing can be performed in two different ways. If leaks are detected an Isolation Test can help determine the location of he leak.
Wait for at least two hours then check the pressure reading on the right hand (low pressure) gauge of the regulator
If the pressure reading has not changed (so is still reading ~20psi) then there are no leaks in the system
If the pressure has dropped a noticeable amount then it is very likely there is a leak in the system. Use Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test to locate the leak. Note: Even if this test is passed it is quite a good idea to perform this test in any case
Using a soapy water solution (washing up liquid and water is perfect for this) in a spry bottle or simply dabbed on, check for leaks at all connections. The soapy water spray will slowly bubble if there are any leaks.
Connections to check include:
• The connection between the CO2 cylinder and the regulator • All duotight connections including the 8mm x FFL duotight connected to the regulator, ball lock disconnects and keg coupler, the 6.5mm x 8mm duotight reducers connected to the short shanks and the 8mm duotight tee pieces • Around ball lock disconnects and keg couplers when they are connected to the keg • Around the lid of a Cornelius keg • Make sure to remove the ball lock disconnects from the posts of the ball lock keg and check the post itself for leaks
IMPORTANT: Do not spray any duotight fittings with StellarSan or phosphoric acid solution to perform a leak test.
If any CO2 leaks are detected, if can be helpful to perform an Isolation Test to determine where the leak is in the system
Once the system is pressurised, isolate each part of the system.
Turn valve of CO2 cylinder fully off.
Fully unwind the (anti clockwise) the regulator knob
Remove Gas Disconnect from the keg
(If using) Remove Gas Disconnect from gas inlet of kegerator
(If possible) Weigh the CO2 cylinder
Wait at least 12 hours
After at least 12 hours, if there is a leak in the system we can determine roughly where the leak is after isolating
If the weight of the CO2 cylinder has gone down noticeably, the cylinder possibly has a leak
If the pressure on the regulator has gone down, the regulator, gas line or fittings may have a leak
Test the keg(s) by pulling the PRV. If no CO2 is released then the keg may have a leak.
Once the general location of the leak has been determined by isolation testing, perform a Detergent Bubble Test in order to locate the leak precisely.
NOTE: It is safe to submerge duotight fittings and EVABarrier in water when locating leaks. Regulators cannot be safely immersed
Series 4 User Guide | Preparation & Setup
Remove and check all items from inside the kegerator
Remove any protective film and tape from the kegerator
Inspect kegerator for any damage that may have incurred in transit including liquid or oil marks inside packaging. If any damage is noted contact your retailer
Make sure the kegerator is empty
Carefully lay the kegerator on its side on a soft surface such as carpet, cardboard or a towel. NOTE: Ensure the kegerator is tipped onto the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues
Unscrew the feet from the base of the kegerator
Remove the screws in the base of the kegerator in each corner. These are pre-installed screws that are used to mount the castor wheels. NOTE: These can be quite tight from the factory. A 5/16" socket or wrench will allow more leverage than a Philips driver if required
The two locking castor wheels should be installed towards the front of the kegerator
Position the kegerator back upright and leave for a minimum 1 hour before turning it on to allow the refrigerant gas to settle. If installing the castors shortly after receiving the kegerator, leave the kegerator upright for a minimum of 24 hours before turning it on
NOTE: The screw holes may be filled with foam and have a foil covering. If this is the case push and thread the screws through the foam or foil. The screw will then catch on the thread allowing it to be screwed in completely
Position the guard rail so the feet line up with the holes in the top of the kegerator
Push the feet of the railing firmly into the holes
Align the four holes in the bracket with the four studs on the back of the kegerator
Insert the studs into the holes and then push the bracket down firmly to secure it
Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise
Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder
Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench
Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise
Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder
Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder using the knurled grip. MK5 Regulators can be hand tightened due to the new spigot seal design that easily compresses
The MK4 regulator comes as standard with a KL06880 8mm x FFL duotight fitting
Thread the KL06880 duotight fitting onto the regulator by hand, then tighten gently with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench. NOTE: DO not over tighten as this may cause the duotight fitting to split
Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut
Push the line firmly into the KL06880 duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)
The MK5 regulator comes as standard with an 8mm duotight ball valve and integrated check valve
Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut
Push the line firmly into the duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted fully (approx.22mm)
Ensure the ball valve is opened before using the MK5 Regulator
Unscrew one of the caps on the back of the Series X and feed the EVABarrier gas line through the hole
Please refer to the Font Assembly for a detailed guide on the different types of fonts
Please refer to the Keg Types guide for assembly instructions for the different types of beer and gas connections
Please refer to the Balancing Kegerator Lines & CO2 guide for details on getting the system balanced for a great pour
KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Leak & Pressure Testing
Performing a CO2 leak test is important to ensure that your system will hold pressure and that there are no leaks in any connections in the system.
If there are any leaks this can result in the CO2 cylinder becoming empty in a short period.
Initial pressure testing can be performed in two different ways. If leaks are detected an Isolation Test can help determine the location of he leak.
Wait for at least two hours then check the pressure reading on the right hand (low pressure) gauge of the regulator
If the pressure reading has not changed (so is still reading ~20psi) then there are no leaks in the system
If the pressure has dropped a noticeable amount then it is very likely there is a leak in the system. Use Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test to locate the leak. Note: Even if this test is passed it is quite a good idea to perform this test in any case
Using a soapy water solution (washing up liquid and water is perfect for this) in a spry bottle or simply dabbed on, check for leaks at all connections. The soapy water spray will slowly bubble if there are any leaks.
Connections to check include:
• The connection between the CO2 cylinder and the regulator • All duotight connections including the 8mm x FFL duotight connected to the regulator, ball lock disconnects and keg coupler, the 6.5mm x 8mm duotight reducers connected to the short shanks and the 8mm duotight tee pieces • Around ball lock disconnects and keg couplers when they are connected to the keg • Around the lid of a Cornelius keg • Make sure to remove the ball lock disconnects from the posts of the ball lock keg and check the post itself for leaks
IMPORTANT: Do not spray any duotight fittings with StellarSan or phosphoric acid solution to perform a leak test.
If any CO2 leaks are detected, if can be helpful to perform an Isolation Test to determine where the leak is in the system
Once the system is pressurised, isolate each part of the system.
Turn valve of CO2 cylinder fully off.
Fully unwind the (anti clockwise) the regulator knob
Remove Gas Disconnect from the keg
(If using) Remove Gas Disconnect from gas inlet of kegerator
(If possible) Weigh the CO2 cylinder
Wait at least 12 hours
After at least 12 hours, if there is a leak in the system we can determine roughly where the leak is after isolating
If the weight of the CO2 cylinder has gone down noticeably, the cylinder possibly has a leak
If the pressure on the regulator has gone down, the regulator, gas line or fittings may have a leak
Test the keg(s) by pulling the PRV. If no CO2 is released then the keg may have a leak.
Once the general location of the leak has been determined by isolation testing, perform a Detergent Bubble Test in order to locate the leak precisely.
NOTE: It is safe to submerge duotight fittings and EVABarrier in water when locating leaks. Regulators cannot be safely immersed






















Series X User Guide | Comerrcial Kegs & Couplers
Commercial kegs primarily come in a range of sizes; 20L, 30L and 50L. 50L kegs are the most common size. Commercial kegs come in three main styles: A-type, D-type and S-type. These three types of commercial kegs can be distinguished by the shape of their spear (shown below).
In Australia A-type and D-type kegs are the most common. You will need to buy the specific keg coupler to fit the keg type, make sure that prior to buying a kegerator you know which type of keg you will be using and which keg coupler is required to dispense from this keg.
As a general rule, CUB and related breweries use D-Type Couplers, all other breweries use A-Type Couplers. S-Type Couplers are typically only used for fully imported beers.
The following diagram shows the different ypes of spear available:
Once you have the correct coupler to suit your keg it will need to be assembled and connected to the beer and gas line.
On a keg coupler there is an inlet for gas and an outlet for liquid. The gas inlet is positioned on a 45-degree angle and the liquid outlet is positioned vertically. It is important to connect the gas line and beer line to the correct inlet and outlet.
Inside the KegLand coupler box you will find two types of one-way check valves: a gas duck bill valve and a liquid torpedo check piece.
The duck bill valve is used for the gas inlet and the torpedo check piece or non-return ball is used for the liquid outlet. In a homebrew setting it may only be necessary to use a check valve in the gas inlet to prevent liquid flowing back in to the regulator.
To install the gas duck bill valve, remove the black EPDM washer from inside the 5/8” duotight fitting on the gas inlet and then insert the gas duck bill valve into the opening (as shown below). Then screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler.
To install the liquid torpedo check piece, remove the 5/8” duotight fitting keeping the black EPDM washer in place, then insert the ball and cage (in the order shown below) and then finally screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler. NOTE: The closed part of the cage must be at the top to hold the ball in place, otherwise this can block the beer from flowing.
Prior to attaching the keg coupler onto the keg make sure that a gas line is connected to the gas inlet and this gas line is connected to a regulator and a beer line is connected to the liquid outlet and this beer line is connected to a tap. Attaching the keg to the keg coupler is usually the last step of the kegerator setup.
Slide the keg coupler over the groove on the top of the keg then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg. NOTE: To fit a 50L keg with an A-type keg coupler into a kegerator or if your keg is a DIN style keg (tall skinny style) you will need to use a KL00390 Low Profile Elbow Bend
Push the coupler into the opening of the spear and then rotate firmly clockwise to attach the coupler to the spear. Then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg.
More detailed instructions on how to assemble and operate a keg coupler can be seen in this video:
Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689 Tube Cutter
If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.
Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.
Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.
NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue
To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.
While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.
Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.
KegLand Commercial Couplers are supplied with duotight fittings that make connecting EVABarrier gas and beer line quite easy.
However, if you plan on switching couplers or wish to use an alternative connection method that allows a bit more customisation, we recommend replacing the duotight fittings with Ball Lock Posts. When adding Ball Lock Posts to a coupler setup, it is recommended to also add a KL00390 Low Profile Elbow Bend which will make it easier to fit a 50L keg.
You will also need a KL00840 Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Liquid and a KL00833 Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Gas which will replace the duotight fittings on the coupler and allow you to use Ball Lock Disconnects on the beer and gas line instead
Series X User Guide | Single, Double & Triple Font Kit Assembly
Remove the cap from the top of the font and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks
Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue
Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font
Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank
Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.
Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines
Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator
Using the included M5 x 30mm bolts, mount the font onto the kegerator after feeding the lines through into the kegerator
Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a liquid ball lock disconnect or keg coupler
Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank
Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using this guide
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using this guide
Cut an approximately 1m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end
Cut this section into approx 2 x 50cm lengths
Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew
Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using this guide
Cut an approximately 1.5m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end
Cut this section into approx 3 x 50cm lengths
Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew
Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using this guide
Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end
Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew
Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee
Series X User Guide | Operation
Cooler (Down) Button
Warmer (Up) Button
Temperature
Celsius/Fahrenheit Indicator
Fan Indicator
Celsius/Fahrenheit Button
Fan Button
To adjust the Set Point Temperature:
Press and hold the Up button for 5 seconds. The display will flash and show the current Set Point Temperature. This is a Child Safety Lock feature to prevent accidentally changing the Set Point Temperature.
Press the Up or Down buttons to modify and save the Set Point Temperature. When the display stops flashing the new Set Point Temperature will be saved.
NOTE: The Up or Down buttons must be pressed repeatedly to change the temperature. The temperature will not continue to change if the button is held down - this is a child lock feature.
To change the displayed temperature between Celsius and Fahrenheit press the °F/°C button. Press it again to revert to the previous units.
The fan is designed for continuous operation. This will help maintain a consistent temperature. In addition, directing the font fan conduit inside the font can assist with keeping the taps and beer lines cold, which helps to minimise 'first beer foam' issues. If desired the fan can be turned on and off manually using the Fan Button. When the fan is on, the fan icon will be displayed.
If there is a large variance between the displayed temperature (IE the temperature of the internal temperature probe and the actual internal temperature of the kegerator (as measured by a calibrated thermometer) then the Temperature Offset can be adjusted from -10°C to 10°C
A Temperature Offset will offset the displayed temperature by the entered amount.
Thus, if the displayed temperature is 2°C but the actual internal temperature is 4°C, an offset of +2°C is required.
Note: In most cases this is not necessary to be adjusted. There will be minor temperature differences in the kegerator due to airflow etc.
Press and hold the Up and Down buttons for approx 5 seconds - until the display flashes SC
Once the display flashes SC, release the Up or Down buttons and press the °F/°C button. This will display the current Offset Temperature (which should be 0°)
Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Temperature Offset (from 10°C to -10°C)
Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 5 seconds)
The display will revert to the current kegerator temperature. This will be different to the value displayed before the offset adjustment was made if the operation was performed correctly.
The exterior of the kegerator can be cleaned with a damp microfibre cloth and a mild spray cleaner. Stainless polish may be used on stainless surfaces (such as fonts etc). StellarClean PBW or StellarOxy solutions may also be used instead.
Monitor the evaporator plate (at the back of the kegerator on top of the compressor). In normal use this should not be filled with water as the heat generated by the compressor will evaporate normal levels of water. If there is excessive water in the evaporator plate or it is overflowing please refer to Troubleshooting
The interior of the kegerator may be cleaned in the same manner. It is not uncommon for some mould to be present inside the kegerator due to the nature of use. If present, clean with a mild mould remover spray and a damp microfibre cloth. Be careful to not get mould spray on any fittings such as keg posts or disconnects.
Series X Plus User Guide | Preparation & Setup
Remove and check all items from inside the kegerator
Remove any protective film and tape from the kegerator
Inspect kegerator for any damage that may have incurred in transit including liquid or oil marks inside packaging. If any damage is noted contact your retailer
Make sure the kegerator is empty
Carefully lay the kegerator on its side on a soft surface such as carpet, cardboard or a towel. NOTE: Ensure the kegerator is tipped onto the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues
Unscrew the feet from the base of the kegerator
Remove the screws in the base of the kegerator in each corner. These are pre-installed screws that are used to mount the castor wheels. NOTE: These can be quite tight from the factory. A 5/16" socket or wrench will allow more leverage than a Philips driver if required
The two locking castor wheels should be installed towards the front of the kegerator
Position the kegerator back upright and leave for a minimum 1 hour before turning it on to allow the refrigerant gas to settle. If installing the castors shortly after receiving the kegerator, leave the kegerator upright for a minimum of 24 hours before turning it on
NOTE: The screw holes may be filled with foam and have a foil covering. If this is the case push and thread the screws through the foam or foil. The screw will then catch on the thread allowing it to be screwed in completely
Position the guard rail so the feet line up with the holes in the top of the kegerator
Push the feet of the railing firmly into the holes
Align the four holes in the bracket with the four studs on the back of the kegerator
Insert the studs into the holes and then push the bracket down firmly to secure it
Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise
Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder
Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench
Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise
Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder
Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder using the knurled grip. MK5 Regulators can be hand tightened due to the new spigot seal design that easily compresses
The MK4 regulator comes as standard with a KL06880 8mm x FFL duotight fitting
Thread the KL06880 duotight fitting onto the regulator by hand, then tighten gently with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench. NOTE: DO not over tighten as this may cause the duotight fitting to split
Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut
Push the line firmly into the KL06880 duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)
The MK5 regulator comes as standard with an 8mm duotight ball valve and integrated check valve
Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut
Push the line firmly into the duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted fully (approx.22mm)
Ensure the ball valve is opened before using the MK5 Regulator
Unscrew one of the caps on the back of the Series X and feed the EVABarrier gas line through the hole
The gas port threads can be easily converted to allow a gas disconnect connection, which is quite convenient for disconnecting the gas line from the kegerator. This is optional
You will need 1 x KL10788 Carbonation Cap, 1 x KL20756 Gas Disconnect, 1 x KL07481 8mm x 6.35mm duotight reducer
Screw the KL10788 Carbonation Cap onto the gas inlet thread at the back of the kegerator
Cut the 8mm EVABarrier gas line to the correct length so that it easily reaches from the regulator to the Carbonation Cap
Fit the KL20756 Gas Disconnect onto the end of the gas line, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)
FIt the KL07481 8mm x 6.35mm duotight reducer onto the corresponding barb of the Carbonation Cap inside the kegerator. The gas line(s) inside the kegerator will then attach directly to this duotight fitting
Connect the Gas Disconnect to the Carbonation Cap to complete the assembly
Please refer to the Font Assembly for a detailed guide on the different types of fonts
Please refer to the Keg Types guide for assembly instructions for the different types of beer and gas connections
Please refer to the Balancing Kegerator Lines & CO2 guide for details on getting the system balanced for a great pour
Series X Plus User Guide | Single, Double and Triple Font Kits
Remove the cap from the top of the font and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks
Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue
Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font
Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank
Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.
Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines
Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator
Using the included M5 x 30mm bolts, mount the font onto the kegerator after feeding the lines through into the kegerator
Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a liquid ball lock disconnect or keg coupler
Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank
Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using this guide
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using this guide
Cut an approximately 1m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end
Cut this section into approx 2 x 50cm lengths
Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew
Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using this guide
Cut an approximately 1.5m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end
Cut this section into approx 3 x 50cm lengths
Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew
Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using this guide
Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end
Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Piece
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew
Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tee
Series X Plus User Guide | Operation
Cooler (Down) Button
Warmer (Up) Button
Temperature
Celsius/Fahrenheit Indicator
Fan Indicator
Celsius/Fahrenheit Button
Fan Button
To adjust the Set Point Temperature:
Press and hold the Up button for 5 seconds. The display will flash and show the current Set Point Temperature. This is a Child Safety Lock feature to prevent accidentally changing the Set Point Temperature.
Press the Up or Down buttons to modify and save the Set Point Temperature. When the display stops flashing the new Set Point Temperature will be saved.
NOTE: The Up or Down buttons must be pressed repeatedly to change the temperature. The temperature will not continue to change if the button is held down - this is a child lock feature.
To change the displayed temperature between Celsius and Fahrenheit press the °F/°C button. Press it again to revert to the previous units.
The fan is designed for continuous operation. This will help maintain a consistent temperature. In addition, directing the font fan conduit inside the font can assist with keeping the taps and beer lines cold, which helps to minimise 'first beer foam' issues. If desired the fan can be turned on and off manually using the Fan Button. When the fan is on, the fan icon will be displayed.
If there is a large variance between the displayed temperature (IE the temperature of the internal temperature probe and the actual internal temperature of the kegerator (as measured by a calibrated thermometer) then the Temperature Offset can be adjusted from -10°C to 10°C
A Temperature Offset will offset the displayed temperature by the entered amount.
Thus, if the displayed temperature is 2°C but the actual internal temperature is 4°C, an offset of +2°C is required.
Note: In most cases this is not necessary to be adjusted. There will be minor temperature differences in the kegerator due to airflow etc.
Press and hold the Up and Down buttons for approx 5 seconds - until the display flashes SC
Once the display flashes SC, release the Up or Down buttons and press the °F/°C button. This will display the current Offset Temperature (which should be 0°)
Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Temperature Offset (from 10°C to -10°C)
Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 5 seconds)
The display will revert to the current kegerator temperature. This will be different to the value displayed before the offset adjustment was made if the operation was performed correctly.
The exterior of the kegerator can be cleaned with a damp microfibre cloth and a mild spray cleaner. Stainless polish may be used on stainless surfaces (such as fonts etc). StellarClean PBW or StellarOxy solutions may also be used instead.
Monitor the evaporator plate (at the back of the kegerator on top of the compressor). In normal use this should not be filled with water as the heat generated by the compressor will evaporate normal levels of water. If there is excessive water in the evaporator plate or it is overflowing please refer to Troubleshooting
The interior of the kegerator may be cleaned in the same manner. It is not uncommon for some mould to be present inside the kegerator due to the nature of use. If present, clean with a mild mould remover spray and a damp microfibre cloth. Be careful to not get mould spray on any fittings such as keg posts or disconnects.
Series 4 User Guide | Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
To ensure you get a consistent pour with the correct amount of head it is important to ensure the length of beer is correlated with the internal diameter of the EVABarrier hose. The suggested length of beer line for each internal diameter is outlined below.
To get a great pour with good head the length of the beer line needs to be adjusted according to the internal diameter of the line and to the carbonation level of the liquid being dispensed. Broadly speaking, the smaller the internal diameter of the beer line the less line is required to get a good flow. For that reason, the standard line used for beer line in all KegLand Font Kits is KL06224 4mm ID x 8mm OD Double Wall EVABarrier
Please refer to this chart for a guide to appropriate beer line length for different diameter line:
4mm
1.5 metres – 2 metres
5mm
2 metres – 3 metres
6.35mm
3 metres – 4 metres
KegLand Font Kits come with pre-cut lengths of beer and gas line. These are typically sized to allow at least 1.5m per length and thus do not need to be cut down in size.
If cutting your own lengths of beer line it is best to start at the upper end of the suggested range and cut the beer line down in size until the desired pour speed is achieved. The faster the pour, the more likely you will get too much head/foam in the glass and also a fast pour can 'knock' carbonation out of solution resulting in a beer with too much head but no carbonation!
Thus, for example, if starting with 4mm ID line start with a 2m length and cut down in 100mm lengths until the desired pour is achieved.
4mm ID line is often the best choice in a short draw (kegerator) setup as it means less overall length of beer line is required which means the kegerator will be less cluttered. It also reduces the amount of beer sitting in the lines between pours.
To see how much beer is in the line (approximately) please refer to this table:
4mm
1.5m
12.5ml
19ml
5mm
2m
20ml
40ml
6mm
3m
28ml
84ml
The downside of 4mm ID beer line is that it is quite hard to fit over barbs. We highly recommend using duotight fittings instead as they are very easy to use and install. They can also be readily swapped out if required - for example, if you decide to change the number of taps and kegs in your setup. All KegLand kegerator kits come with duotight fittings as standard.
If you are not sure about temperature, carbonation levels and CO2 pressure for serving, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the regulator to 12psi is appropriate for most situations.
To produce the perfect pour, a number of variables need to be balanced. These include the beer line length, carbonation level of the beer and storage temperature of the keg.
The temperature of the beer in the keg correlates directly to the carbonation level. Thus, a beer at 4°C will have less carbonation than a beer at 2°C at the same CO2 pressure.
For most styles of beer, you should be aiming for a carbonation level of between 2.2-2.8 volumes of carbonation. 2.6 volumes of carbonation can be considered a good average level for most beers. If you are unsure of the carbonation level of the beer IE If it is a commercial keg then assume it is at 2.6 volumes of carbonation.
To achieve a specific carbonation level refer to this Carbonation Chart and match the temperature of the kegerator to the desired carbonation level. Typically kegerators would be set to maintain a temperature between 0-3°C. Typically, 2°C is the perfect temperature for most beer styles.
The pressure at which you dispense the beer should be slightly higher than the carbonation pressure (~10% higher).
For example, to carbonate to 2.6 volumes at 2°C you would carbonate the beer at approximately 11psi and then serve the beer at approximately 12psi.
The pressure at which you serve the beer should be determined as above - thus the carbonation level determines the serving level. Do not try to fix a fast or slow pour by adjusting the pressure. Too low a pressure will result in flat beer, and too high a pressure will cause over-carbonation.
If you think that you have over carbonated your beer you may need to release the Pressure in the keg and then set it to your desired pressure according to the carbonation chart above. Do not release pressure in the keg by pulling the PRV on the regulator as this can result in liquid being pulled into the regulator and potentially causing damage to the regulator.
If you wish to have beers of different carbonation levels in the kegerator then you can use a KL10870 dual pressure regulator to have two different serving pressures. Alternatively a KL15035 inline regulator can be installed on the gas lines which allows individual control of each line.
This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Important Information
This instruction sheet contains vital information that is related to the safe usage and handling of the FermZilla Tri-Conical Unitank.
It is vital that you read this instruction sheet from front to back before using the product!
THIS IS FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY WHEN USING A PRESSURISABLE FERMENTAION VESSEL
Do not loosen the tri-clover clamps when the FermZilla is under pressure. Purge all pressure in the FermZilla and the collection container before loosening the tri-clover clamps
When not under pressure do not expose to liquids above 55°C (131°F). Only clean, wash or sanitise the fermenter with cold water
When under pressure do not expose to any temperatures above 35°C (95°F)
Keep the fermenter out of direct sun or heat. Do not expose to UV rays of any sort
If using a heat belt to warm the fermenter then only have the heat belt sitting below the liquid level. Do not use an unregulated heat source, only use heat sources which are plugged into a temperature controller
Under no circumstances apply more than 2.5bar (35psi) to the fermenter. Do not connect an unregulated pressure source. If you connect external pressure source ensure it has independent PRV pre-set to 35psi or below
A spunding valve set below 35psi must always be connected to the FermZilla when fermenting under pressure or connected to the recipient keg when performing a closed transfer. Recommended range for pressure fermenting is 10-12psi
Do not tamper with the pressure relief valve. Only use the red or yellow coloured pressure relief valve supplied by KegLand
If vigorous fermentation is experienced and krausen or wort has contacted the PRV, ensure the PRV is removed and cleaned before putting the FermZilla under pressure
If the fermenter is scratched, damaged or has been under any physical duress; do not use the fermenter under pressure without hydro-testing
If you use the fermenter under pressure hydro test the fermenter every 24 months to ensure it is safe to use
Only use chemical cleaners and sanitizers that are approved by Kegland. These include: KL05371 Ethyl Sanitiser Spray (effective for sanitising the exterior of the FermZilla) , KL05357 StellarSan (mixed to the correct dilution), KL05494 StellarClean PBW (not to be left in the FermZilla for more than 30 minutes), KL07405 StellarOxy. Or contact https://www.kegland.com.au/ for more information regarding other compatible chemical cleaning products
Always keep the butterfly valve open during fermentation. Only close the butterfly valve once fermentation has ceased and hydrometer readings are stable for 3 consecutive days
Open the butterfly valve and ensure the system (including the collection container) is depressurized prior to removing the collection container
Do not over tighten the stainless-steel handles onto the neck of the FermZilla
Avoid lifting the FermZilla while full. If filled with wort avoid moving the FermZilla to prevent sticky wort from preventing the PRV from operating
Always conduct a leak test prior to beginning fermentation
Lubricating the Butterfly valve gate and all O-rings will prolong the life of the unit. We recommend Haynes Food Grade Lube
When fermenting under pressure, a PRV alone is not sufficient. A Spunding Valve must be used to ensure pressure dos not build beyond safe limits.
Series X Plus User Guide | Tee Bar Font Kits
Remove the caps from the end of the fonts and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks
NOTE: Install shanks from the middle of the font outwards
Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue
Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font. Angling the shank off to the side slightly is generally easiest
Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank
Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.
Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines
Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator
Using the included M5 x 30mm bolts, mount the font onto the kegerator after feeding the lines through into the kegerator
Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a liquid ball lock disconnect or keg coupler
Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank
Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using this guide
Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end
Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew
Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees
FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Important Information & Warnings
This instruction sheet contains vital information that is related to the safe usage and handling of the FermZilla All Rounder.
It is vital that you read this instruction sheet from front to back before using the product!
THIS IS FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY WHEN USING A PRESSURISABLE FERMENTAION VESSEL
Do not loosen the lid when the FermZilla is under pressure. Purge all pressure in the FermZilla loosening the lid ring
When not under pressure do not expose to liquids above 55°C (131°F). Only clean, wash or sanitise the fermenter with cold water
When under pressure do not expose to any temperatures above 35°C (95°F)
Keep the fermenter out of direct sun or heat. Do not expose to UV rays of any sort
If using a heat belt to warm the fermenter then only have the heat belt sitting below the liquid level. Do not use an unregulated heat source, only use heat sources which are plugged into a temperature controller
Under no circumstances apply more than 2.5bar (35psi) to the fermenter. Do not connect an unregulated pressure source. If you connect external pressure source ensure it has independent PRV pre-set to 35psi or below
A spunding valve set below 35psi must always be connected to the FermZilla when fermenting under pressure or connected to the recipient keg when performing a closed transfer. Recommended range for pressure fermenting is 10-12psi
Do not tamper with the pressure relief valve. Only use the red or yellow coloured pressure relief valve supplied by KegLand
If vigorous fermentation is experienced and krausen or wort has contacted the PRV, ensure the PRV is removed and cleaned before putting the FermZilla under pressure
If the fermenter is scratched, damaged or has been under any physical duress; do not use the fermenter under pressure without hydro-testing
If you use the fermenter under pressure hydro test the fermenter every 24 months to ensure it is safe to use
Only use chemical cleaners and sanitizers that are approved by Kegland. These include: KL05371 Ethyl Sanitiser Spray (effective for sanitising the exterior of the FermZilla) , KL05357 StellarSan (mixed to the correct dilution), KL05494 StellarClean PBW (not to be left in the FermZilla for more than 30 minutes), KL07405 StellarOxy. Or contact https://www.kegland.com.au/ for more information regarding other compatible chemical cleaning products
Do not over tighten the stainless-steel handles onto the neck of the FermZilla
Avoid lifting the FermZilla while full. If filled with wort avoid moving the FermZilla to prevent sticky wort from preventing the PRV from operating
Always conduct a leak test prior to beginning fermentation
Lubricating all O-rings will prolong the life of the unit. We recommend Haynes Food Grade Lube
When fermenting under pressure, a PRV alone is not sufficient. A Spunding Valve must be used to ensure pressure dos not build beyond safe limits.
Series X User Guide | Tee Bar Font Kits
Remove the caps from the end of the fonts and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks
NOTE: Install shanks from the middle of the font outwards
Feed the length of 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the 4mmx8mm EVABarrier beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font. For a guide to getting the correct length for beer line refer to Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank. NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue
Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font. Angling the shank off to the side slightly is generally easiest
Push each length of beer line into the 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank
Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower.
Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines
Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator
Using the included M5 x 30mm bolts, mount the font onto the kegerator after feeding the lines through into the kegerator
Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a liquid ball lock disconnect or keg coupler
Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank
Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner
Feed this through the gas inlet into the kegerator. If desired, convert the gas post to a Ball Lock Disconnect fitting using this guide
Cut an approximately 2m length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier gas line from the end
Cut this section into approx 4 x 50cm lengths
Push each length into the 8mm duotight Equal Tee Pieces
Connect the other end of the EVABarrier to the duotight fitting on the coupler or a Ball Lock Disconnect. The fitting will depend on the kegerator setup - whether it is for commercial (brewery made) beer or for homebrew
Insert the remaining length of 5mm x 8mm EVABarrier (that is connected to the regulator) into the the Equal Tees
Series X User Guide | Preparation & Setup
Remove and from inside the kegerator
Remove any protective film and tape from the kegerator
Inspect kegerator for any damage that may have incurred in transit including liquid or oil marks inside packaging. If any damage is noted contact your retailer
Make sure the kegerator is empty
Carefully lay the kegerator on its side on a soft surface such as carpet, cardboard or a towel. NOTE: Ensure the kegerator is tipped onto the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues
Unscrew the feet from the base of the kegerator
Remove the screws in the base of the kegerator in each corner. These are pre-installed screws that are used to mount the castor wheels. NOTE: These can be quite tight from the factory. A 5/16" socket or wrench will allow more leverage than a Philips driver if required
The two locking castor wheels should be installed towards the front of the kegerator
Position the kegerator back upright and leave for a minimum 1 hour before turning it on to allow the refrigerant gas to settle. If installing the castors shortly after receiving the kegerator, leave the kegerator upright for a minimum of 24 hours before turning it on
NOTE: The screw holes may be filled with foam and have a foil covering. If this is the case push and thread the screws through the foam or foil. The screw will then catch on the thread allowing it to be screwed in completely
Position the guard rail so the feet line up with the holes in the top of the kegerator
Push the feet of the railing firmly into the holes
Align the four holes in the bracket with the four studs on the back of the kegerator
Insert the studs into the holes and then push the bracket down firmly to secure it
Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise
Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder
Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench
Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise
Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder
Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder using the knurled grip. MK5 Regulators can be hand tightened due to the new spigot seal design that easily compresses
The MK4 regulator comes as standard with a
Thread the KL06880 duotight fitting onto the regulator by hand, then tighten gently with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench. NOTE: DO not over tighten as this may cause the duotight fitting to split
Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut
Push the line firmly into the KL06880 duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)
The MK5 regulator comes as standard with an 8mm duotight ball valve and integrated check valve
Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut
Push the line firmly into the duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted fully (approx.22mm)
Ensure the ball valve is opened before using the MK5 Regulator
Unscrew one of the caps on the back of the Series X and feed the EVABarrier gas line through the hole
The gas port threads can be easily converted to allow a gas disconnect connection, which is quite convenient for disconnecting the gas line from the kegerator. This is optional
You will need 1 x Carbonation Cap, 1 x Gas Disconnect, 1 x 8mm x 6.35mm duotight reducer
Screw the Carbonation Cap onto the gas inlet thread at the back of the kegerator
Cut the 8mm EVABarrier gas line to the correct length so that it easily reaches from the regulator to the Carbonation Cap
Fit the Gas Disconnect onto the end of the gas line, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)
FIt the 8mm x 6.35mm duotight reducer onto the corresponding barb of the Carbonation Cap inside the kegerator. The gas line(s) inside the kegerator will then attach directly to this duotight fitting
Connect the Gas Disconnect to the Carbonation Cap to complete the assembly
Please refer to the for a detailed guide on the different types of fonts
Please refer to the for assembly instructions for the different types of beer and gas connections
Please refer to the for details on getting the system balanced for a great pour
Series X User Guide | Balancing Beer Lines
To ensure you get a consistent pour with the correct amount of head it is important to ensure the length of beer is correlated with the internal diameter of the EVABarrier hose. The suggested length of beer line for each internal diameter is outlined below.
To get a great pour with good head the length of the beer line needs to be adjusted according to the internal diameter of the line and to the carbonation level of the liquid being dispensed. Broadly speaking, the smaller the internal diameter of the beer line the less line is required to get a good flow. For that reason, the standard line used for beer line in all KegLand Font Kits is KL06224
Please refer to this chart for a guide to appropriate beer line length for different diameter line:
KegLand Font Kits come with pre-cut lengths of beer and gas line. These are typically sized to allow at least 1.5m per length and thus do not need to be cut down in size.
If cutting your own lengths of beer line it is best to start at the upper end of the suggested range and cut the beer line down in size until the desired pour speed is achieved. The faster the pour, the more likely you will get too much head/foam in the glass and also a fast pour can 'knock' carbonation out of solution resulting in a beer with too much head but no carbonation!
Thus, for example, if starting with 4mm ID line start with a 2m length and cut down in 100mm lengths until the desired pour is achieved.
4mm ID line is often the best choice in a short draw (kegerator) setup as it means less overall length of beer line is required which means the kegerator will be less cluttered. It also reduces the amount of beer sitting in the lines between pours.
To see how much beer is in the line (approximately) please refer to this table:
The downside of 4mm ID beer line is that it is quite hard to fit over barbs. We highly recommend using duotight fittings instead as they are very easy to use and install. They can also be readily swapped out if required - for example, if you decide to change the number of taps and kegs in your setup. All KegLand kegerator kits come with duotight fittings as standard.
If you are not sure about temperature, carbonation levels and CO2 pressure for serving, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the regulator to 12psi is appropriate for most situations.
To produce the perfect pour, a number of variables need to be balanced. These include the beer line length, carbonation level of the beer and storage temperature of the keg.
The temperature of the beer in the keg correlates directly to the carbonation level. Thus, a beer at 4°C will have less carbonation than a beer at 2°C at the same CO2 pressure.
For most styles of beer, you should be aiming for a carbonation level of between 2.2-2.8 volumes of carbonation. 2.6 volumes of carbonation can be considered a good average level for most beers. If you are unsure of the carbonation level of the beer IE If it is a commercial keg then assume it is at 2.6 volumes of carbonation.
To achieve a specific carbonation level refer to this and match the temperature of the kegerator to the desired carbonation level. Typically kegerators would be set to maintain a temperature between 0-3°C. Typically, 2°C is the perfect temperature for most beer styles.
The pressure at which you dispense the beer should be slightly higher than the carbonation pressure (~10% higher).
For example, to carbonate to 2.6 volumes at 2°C you would carbonate the beer at approximately 11psi and then serve the beer at approximately 12psi.
The pressure at which you serve the beer should be determined as above - thus the carbonation level determines the serving level. Do not try to fix a fast or slow pour by adjusting the pressure. Too low a pressure will result in flat beer, and too high a pressure will cause over-carbonation.
If you think that you have over carbonated your beer you may need to release the Pressure in the keg and then set it to your desired pressure according to the carbonation chart above. Do not release pressure in the keg by pulling the PRV on the regulator as this can result in liquid being pulled into the regulator and potentially causing damage to the regulator.
If you wish to have beers of different carbonation levels in the kegerator then you can use a KL10870 to have two different serving pressures. Alternatively a KL15035 can be installed on the gas lines which allows individual control of each line.
This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles
Series X Plus User Guide | Quick Start Guide
If kegerator has been moved/delivered do not turn it on unless it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours. Failure to do this will void warranty and may damage the kegerator. Leave the kegerator upright for at least 24 hours before plugging in mains power after receiving and unboxing
Only tip kegerator onto right hand side (as seen from the front), when installing castors etc. Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues
CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space
Never exceed 40psi in your keg system
Always flush chemicals from the beer line completely before tapping keg
Always check for gas leaks once the kegerator is set up
Ensure there is at least 100mm clearance on each side of the kegerator after installation. Failure to allow adequate clearance will impact cooling performance and void warranty
NOTE: The Series X Plus does not include a wire shelf. The are suitable if you wish to add a shelf
Please refer to this video for a detailed guide to setting up a kegerator.
The following video is for a standard Series X setup, but includes useful information regarding duotight disconnect fittings and other products
For detailed, step by step instructions, read on!
KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
To ensure you get a consistent pour with the correct amount of head it is important to ensure the length of beer is correlated with the internal diameter of the EVABarrier hose. The suggested length of beer line for each internal diameter is outlined below.
To get a great pour with good head the length of the beer line needs to be adjusted according to the internal diameter of the line and to the carbonation level of the liquid being dispensed. Broadly speaking, the smaller the internal diameter of the beer line the less line is required to get a good flow. For that reason, the standard line used for beer line in all KegLand Font Kits is KL06224
Please refer to this chart for a guide to appropriate beer line length for different diameter line:
KegLand Font Kits come with pre-cut lengths of beer and gas line. These are typically sized to allow at least 1.5m per length and thus do not need to be cut down in size.
If cutting your own lengths of beer line it is best to start at the upper end of the suggested range and cut the beer line down in size until the desired pour speed is achieved. The faster the pour, the more likely you will get too much head/foam in the glass and also a fast pour can 'knock' carbonation out of solution resulting in a beer with too much head but no carbonation!
Thus, for example, if starting with 4mm ID line start with a 2m length and cut down in 100mm lengths until the desired pour is achieved.
4mm ID line is often the best choice in a short draw (kegerator) setup as it means less overall length of beer line is required which means the kegerator will be less cluttered. It also reduces the amount of beer sitting in the lines between pours.
To see how much beer is in the line (approximately) please refer to this table:
The downside of 4mm ID beer line is that it is quite hard to fit over barbs. We highly recommend using duotight fittings instead as they are very easy to use and install. They can also be readily swapped out if required - for example, if you decide to change the number of taps and kegs in your setup. All KegLand kegerator kits come with duotight fittings as standard.
If you are not sure about temperature, carbonation levels and CO2 pressure for serving, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the regulator to 12psi is appropriate for most situations.
To produce the perfect pour, a number of variables need to be balanced. These include the beer line length, carbonation level of the beer and storage temperature of the keg.
The temperature of the beer in the keg correlates directly to the carbonation level. Thus, a beer at 4°C will have less carbonation than a beer at 2°C at the same CO2 pressure.
For most styles of beer, you should be aiming for a carbonation level of between 2.2-2.8 volumes of carbonation. 2.6 volumes of carbonation can be considered a good average level for most beers. If you are unsure of the carbonation level of the beer IE If it is a commercial keg then assume it is at 2.6 volumes of carbonation.
To achieve a specific carbonation level refer to this and match the temperature of the kegerator to the desired carbonation level. Typically kegerators would be set to maintain a temperature between 0-3°C. Typically, 2°C is the perfect temperature for most beer styles.
The pressure at which you dispense the beer should be slightly higher than the carbonation pressure (~10% higher).
For example, to carbonate to 2.6 volumes at 2°C you would carbonate the beer at approximately 11psi and then serve the beer at approximately 12psi.
The pressure at which you serve the beer should be determined as above - thus the carbonation level determines the serving level. Do not try to fix a fast or slow pour by adjusting the pressure. Too low a pressure will result in flat beer, and too high a pressure will cause over-carbonation.
If you think that you have over carbonated your beer you may need to release the Pressure in the keg and then set it to your desired pressure according to the carbonation chart above. Do not release pressure in the keg by pulling the PRV on the regulator as this can result in liquid being pulled into the regulator and potentially causing damage to the regulator.
If you wish to have beers of different carbonation levels in the kegerator then you can use a KL10870 to have two different serving pressures. Alternatively a KL15035 can be installed on the gas lines which allows individual control of each line.
This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the regulator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles
KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Operation
Power Button
SET Button
Up and Down Buttons
Defrost Cycle Indicator
Fan Indicator
Celsius/Fahrenheit Button
Manual LED Button
To adjust the Set Point Temperature:
Press the SET button to display the current Set Point Temperature.
Press the Up or Down buttons to modify and save the Set Point Temperature
Press the SET button to exit the Adjustment Status and display the current actual temperature
To change the displayed temperature between Celsius and Fahrenheit press the °C/°F button. Press it again to revert to the previous units.
The internal LED is automatically turned on when the door is opened. It can be manually operated - turned on or off - using the Light Button. The LED is on a timer so it will automatically turn off after 2 minutes.
The KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator has a defrost cycle programmed in. Should you wish to perform a manual defrost for any reason (such as visible ice build up) this can be performed by pressing the Up button for 6 seconds to begin a defrost cycle. If a defrost cycle is running, performing this operation will manually stop the defrost cycle.
Hysteresis is the allowed differntial from the Set Point Temperature before the compressor (cooling) operates. Thus, if the Set Point Temperature is 2°C and the Hysteresis is 3°C then the compressor will operate when the internal temperature reads 5°C, and it will continue to operate until the Set Point Temperature of 2°C is reached. The default hysteresis is 3°C, which is appropriate for most circumstances.
Note: Decreasing the hysteresis can increase power consumption
Press the SET button and hold for 8 seconds to enter the parameter setup mode - L1 will flash on the display
Press the SET button to cycle through Parameters until L3 is displayed
Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Hysteresis
Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 6 seconds)
If there is a large variance between the displayed temperature (IE the temperature of the internal temperature probe and the actual internal temperature of the kegerator (as measureed by a calibrated thermometer) then the Temperature Offset can be adjusted from -20°C to 20°C
A Temperature Offset will offset the displayed temperature by the entered amount.
Thus, if the displayed temperature is 2°C but the actual internal temperature is 4°C, and offset of +2°C is required.
Note: In most cases this is not necessary to be adjusted. There will be minor temperature differences in the kegerator due to airflow etc.
Press the SET button and hold for 8 seconds to enter the parameter setup mode - L1 will flash on the display
Press the SET button to cycle through Parameters until L5 is displayed
Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Temperature Offset (from 20°C to -20°C)
Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 6 seconds)
Press the SET button and hold for 8 seconds to enter the parameter setup mode - L1 will flash on the display
Press the SET button to cycle through Parameters until F1 is displayed
Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Defrost Duration (from 1 minute to 60 minutes). The default setting is 30 minutes
Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 6 seconds)
Press the SET button and hold for 8 seconds to enter the parameter setup mode - L1 will flash on the display
Press the SET button to cycle through Parameters until F2 is displayed
Press the Up or Down buttons to modify the Defrost Interval Time (from 00 hours to 24 hours). The default setting is 4 hours
Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 6 seconds)
To reset all settings (Set Point, Hysteresis, Offset etc) to factory defaults, press and hold the Up or Down buttons simultaneously for 8 seconds until the display flashes 888, then release. This will restore the unit to factory defaults.
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Identifying & Fixing Leaks
If you suspect that your FermZilla has a leak it is important to properly test this.
Leak testing is not typically viable when fermentation is in progress. It is also possible to mis-identify the FermZilla as having a leak due to factors such as CO2 dissolving into solution (during cold crash, for example) or other factors.
Unless the tank itself is cracked (in which case it will need to be replaced) then the All Rounder range can only leak from the lid or neck of the FermZilla.
There are two ways to test and identify the location of a leak.
Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with
Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)
Spray or lightly sponge the entirety of the lid and neck of the FermZilla with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Ensure the lid collar, the whole of the lid and the Carbonation Caps, threads and PRV are covered.
Examine the lid and neck for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the lid or neck of the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak
If any leaks are detected, please refer to
Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with
Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)
Half fill a suitable bucket or container (large enough to fit the FermZilla) with cold water
Invert the FermZilla into the bucket, ensuring that it is submerged past the lid
If a steady stream of bubbles, or slow but regular bubbles are visible, then the FermZilla may have a leak
If the exact position of the leak cannot be determined (if the vessel is not large enough to see the whole lid, for example) then perform a to identify the location of the leak
Unless the tank itself is cracked (in which case it will need to be replaced) then the Tri-Conical range can only leak from the lid, Collection Container or Butterfly Valve assembly of the FermZilla.
There are two ways to test and identify the location of a leak.
Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with
Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)
Spray or lightly sponge the entirety of the lid and neck of the FermZilla with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Ensure the lid collar, the whole of the lid and the Carbonation Caps, threads and PRV are covered.
Examine the lid and neck for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the lid or neck of the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak
Spray or lightly sponge the threads/caps/Carbonation Caps of the Collection Container with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Also spray or lightly sponge the Butterfly Valve assembly and the flange and clamps of the assembly
Examine the bottom assembly (Collection Container, Butterfly Valve and 2" TC flange) for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak
If any leaks are detected, please refer to
Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with
Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)
Half fill a suitable bucket or container (large enough to fit the FermZilla) with cold water
Invert the FermZilla into the bucket, ensuring that it is submerged past the lid
After checking the lid, lower the FermZIlla into the vessel so that the bottom assembly (Collection Container, Butterfly Valve and 2" TC flange) are submerged
If a steady stream of bubbles, or slow but regular bubbles are visible, then the FermZilla may have a leak
If the exact position of the leak cannot be determined (if the vessel is not large enough to see the whole lid, for example) then perform a to identify the location of the leak
Once a leak has been identified the cause of the leak needs to be determined and corrected.
If the leak is from the lid itself or the neck of the FermZilla then remove the lid and inspect the threads of the FermZilla tank for cracking. If a crack is located then the tank will need to be replaced.
Remove and insect the lid o-ring from the inner lid. Inspect the o-ring for burrs, cuts or damage. If this is damaged it will need to be replaced with a
Inspect the threads of the and the for cracks, nicks or damage. If this is the source of the leak it will need to be replaced.
Once parts are inspected and/or replaced as needed, ensure the o-ring and threads are lubricated with food grade lube and repeat the above tests.
If the lid is still leaking make sure that the stainless-steel handles are not too tight. Loosen these\ handles (or remove) and then perform another leak test. The handles should only be hand tight as too tight can result in distortion of the neck of the Fermzilla
Inspect the threads on the Collection Container. If any cracks are found this will need to be replaced. Ensure that the threads are lubed and the Carbonation Caps are only hand tightened when replacing fittings.
Inspect the for nicks or damage. If these are damaged they will need to be replaced.
If no physical issues are found carefully reassemble the Collection Container and Butterfly Valve. Lubricate the beaded seals and all threads with food grade lube. Reassemble and retest the FermZilla.
If you are still experiencing issues please send through a video to the email showing where the leak is occurring (leak test) and photos of the condition of the lid and o-ring.
FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Tips, Tricks & Accessories
The FermZIlla range is distinguished by being pressure capable fermenters which allow fermenting and transferring beer under pressure. There are also a number of super handy accessories available to improve your beer and your brewing! The FermZilla range has a number of advantages over more traditional fermenters on the market.
As a pressure capable fermenter, the FermZilla can be treated as an all in one fermentation and dispensing unit. If the FermZilla is equipped for pressure fermentation, simply ferment and cold crash as normal. Once the cold crash is complete, there is no need to transfer to a keg.
Simply connect the FermZilla to CO2 using the Gas Post, and connect a tap of some kind to the Liquid Post. Once connected (and the beer is chilled and carbonated) you are good to go!
Recommended taps include the , the and the . These are all great options to have to hand for pulling samples during fermentation (to check gravity etc).
The Hop Bong is a fantastic way to dry hop in a FermZilla without introducing O2 (LODO). The Hop Bong is suitable for all pressure capable FermZillas (the Tri-Conical and the All Rounder). It can be purchased as a (if you have the required Carbonation Caps, dip tube etc) or as a .
The Hop Bong assembly can be attached at the start of fermentation. It can also be added to the lid at any stage - simply keep the 2" Butterfly Valve closed until the Hop Bong has been attached.
Remove the lid of the Hop Bong by undoing the 2" Tri Clover clamp
Add the required dry hop to the Hop Bong
Replace the lid on the Hop Bong and secure the 2" Tri-Clover clamp
Set your regulator to between 5-10psi and connect the gas ball lock disconnect to the Carbonation Cap on the Hop Bong
While connected and pressurised, pull the PRV on the lid of the Hop Bong several times. This will purge and refill the container with CO2, effectively displacing the O2 in the Hop Bong
Once purged, disconnect the CO2 and open the Butterfly Valve to introduce the hops into the FermZilla tank
For more information and detailed instructions for the Hop Bong, please refer to this video
The is the perfect accessory for the FermZilla range! Unlike stainless fermenters, the FermZilla is made of transparent PET. PET is easy to clean, sanitary and also transparent to WiFi signals, making the use of a network capable floating hydrometer such as the RAPT Pill very simple. Using the RAPT Pill connected to your home network (or to another RAPT device such as a via Bluetooth) you can get near real time gravity and temperature readings from directly inside the FermZilla! This unlocks powerful and easy fermentation and temperature control and is a highly recommended upgrade.
For more information , please refer to this video
The is the most capable Fermentation Chamber on the market. It was designed from the ground up to hold 2 x 30L FermZilla All Rounders, 1 x 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical (with or without Hop Bong) or 1 x FermZilla 60L All Rounder or 55L Tri-Conical. With built in heating and cooling, WiFi and Bluetooth* connectivity and connection and control via the RAPT ecosystem it is the easiest and most advanced method of fermentation control on the market!
*Bluetooth connectivity works only in conjunction with a
For more information, please refer to this video
The FermZilla range can also be used in conjunction with a glycol chiller such as the
You will need to install a for the temperature probe and also a cooling coil such as the . All FermZilla lids have ports marked for drilling in order to fit these accessories. Otherwise, a can also be purchased. These can also be installed in the which enables the use of the Hop Bong in conjunction with a glycol setup.
Due to the shape of the FermZIlla range (the conical shape of the Tri-Conical FermZilla and the rounded base of the All Rounder) you can skip the whirlpool in the kettle and just transfer everything! The hops and trub will simply settle out. You can then use the Collection Container of the Tri-Conical to dump this (if desired). In addition, when transferring under pressure, we are only drawing clear beer from the surface during the process, greatly minimising the amount of solids that can make their way into the keg.
G20 Glycol Chiller | Fermenter Setup
Once the G20 has been setup and tested, and is filled with a glycol solution of the appropriate ratio, we are ready to attach the lines to the fermenter(s)
IMPORTANT: Prior to connecting the G20 to the fermenter ensure that the temperature of the liquid in the fermenter is below 50°C. The G20 is not designed to cool from boiling to 50°C and instead normal tap water should be recirculated through the cooling coils first to drop the temperature of the liquid
KL47340 JoinTech G20 has KL41096 fittings as standard. This works in conjunction with KL41102
The 13mm barb on the female JoinTech fitting is ideally suited for KL40587 and KL40570
It is recommended to secure the insulated glycol tubing to the JoinTech barb using KL06729 as illustrated
For best performance, insulate the hosing between the G20 (if not using pre-insulated tubing as above) and the fermenter and try and minimise the distance between the Glycol Chiller and fermenter(s)
Before connecting the Glycol Chiller to the fermenter ensure that the liquid in the fermenter is below 50°C. The Glycol Chiller is not designed to cool liquids above 50°C so the liquid in the fermenter must be cooled below 50°C before the Glycol Chiller is connected
Connect a suitable length of 12mm ID tubing for your application to the desired outlet (OUT) port on the G20 using JoinTech fittings
Connect the tubing to the cooling coil or jacket inlet on your fermenter
Run a length of 12mm ID tubing from the coil or jacket outlet back into the inlet (IN) adjacent to the outlet chosen on the G20 using JoinTech fittings
Insert the temperature probe into the thermowell of the fermenter being controlled. If there is no thermowell, tape and insulate the temperature probe to the side of the fermenter
Set the temperature on the temperature controller to the set temperature of fermentation
Set the temperature on the temperature controller for the reservoir to between -2° and -6°C if using glycol. Do not set this to a temperature lower than recommended according to . If you are only using water in the reservoir and not glycol then do not set the temperature of the reservoir to below 2°C
The Glycol Chiller has 10mm barbs as standard, suited to KL18142
IMPORTANT: Prior to connecting the G20 to the fermenter ensure that the temperature of the liquid in the fermenter is below 50°C. The G20 is not designed to cool from boiling to 50°C and instead normal tap water should be recirculated through the cooling coils first to drop the temperature of the liquid
The Glycol Chiller has 10mm barbs as standard, suited to KL18142
For best performance, insulate the hosing between the G20 and the fermenter and try and minimise the distance between the Glycol Chiller and fermenter(s)
Before connecting the Glycol Chiller to the fermenter ensure that the liquid in the fermenter is below 50°C. The Glycol Chiller is not designed to cool liquids above 50°C so the liquid in the fermenter must be cooled below 50°C before the Glycol Chiller is connected
Connect a suitable length of 10mm ID silicone tubing for your application to the desired outlet (OUT) port on the G20
Connect the silicone tubing to the cooling coil or jacket inlet on your fermenter
Run a length of 10mm ID silicone tubing from the coil or jacket outlet back into the inlet (IN) adjacent to the outlet chosen on the G20
Insert the temperature probe into the thermowell of the fermenter being controlled. If there is no thermowell, tape and insulate the temperature probe to the side of the fermenter
Set the temperature on the temperature controller to the set temperature of fermentation
Set the temperature on the temperature controller for the reservoir to between -2° and -6°C if using glycol. Do not set this to a temperature lower than recommended according to . If you are only using water in the reservoir and not glycol then do not set the temperature of the reservoir to below 2°C
NOTE: When under load such as when cooling a fermenter it can take a longer time than the cooling factor you have measured to cool the reservoir down to the set temperature This time is dependent on a number of variables including but not limited to:
Jacketing of the fermenter (jacketed or non-jacketed)
Number of fermenters being cooled
Ambient temperature
Heat ingress
Line legth and type
Insulation of the system
An ideal setup would include some or all of the following features.
Short runs of line to/from the G20 and the fermenter
Insulation of the lines
Insulation of the fermenter
Gycol rather than water (to allow the reservoir temperature to drop below 0°C)
Controlled ambient temperature
G20 and fermenter out of direct sunlight
The G20 is capable of cooling 200L jacketed fermenters. However, if your fermenter is a large distance away from the G20 then the submersible pumps may not be able to handle this increased resistance. Hence, it is suggested for fermenters at a distance that an external pump be used to transfer the glycol to the fermenter.
It is also important that thermal losses in the system are minimised as much as possible by insulation of all parts of the system.
Connect an external pump to an external temperature controller
Remove the retaining clip and 3/8” plug from the bottom duotight fitting on the nylon sight tube. Attach 9.5mm (3/8”) EVABarrier tubing (KL06248) to the duotight fitting and connect this tubing to your external pump
Attach tubing to the outlet of the external pump and attach this tube to the cooling coils or jacket on your fermenter
Run tubing from the outlet of the fermenter cooling coils back into the reservoir of the G20
Set the temperature on the temperature controller for the reservoir to between -2° and -6°C if using glycol. Do not set this to a temperature lower than recommended according to . If you are only using water in the reservoir and not glycol then do not set the temperature of the reservoir to below 2°C. For long runs using a glycol mixture is strongly recommended
Insert the temperature probe of the external temperature controller into the thermowell on your fermenter
Set the temperature on your external temperature controller to your desired fermentation temperature. This will cycle the pump on and off to supply cold glycol solution only when the temperature of the fermenter increases above the set fermentation temperature

4mm
1.5 metres – 2 metres
5mm
2 metres – 3 metres
6.35mm
3 metres – 4 metres
4mm
1.5m
12.5ml
19ml
5mm
2m
20ml
40ml
6mm
3m
28ml
84ml

4mm
1.5 metres – 2 metres
5mm
2 metres – 3 metres
6.35mm
3 metres – 4 metres
4mm
1.5m
12.5ml
19ml
5mm
2m
20ml
40ml
6mm
3m
28ml
84ml









































Series X Plus User Guide | Balancing Lines
To ensure you get a consistent pour with the correct amount of head it is important to ensure the length of beer is correlated with the internal diameter of the EVABarrier hose. The suggested length of beer line for each internal diameter is outlined below.
To get a great pour with good head the length of the beer line needs to be adjusted according to the internal diameter of the line and to the carbonation level of the liquid being dispensed. Broadly speaking, the smaller the internal diameter of the beer line the less line is required to get a good flow. For that reason, the standard line used for beer line in all KegLand Font Kits is KL06224 4mm ID x 8mm OD Double Wall EVABarrier
Please refer to this chart for a guide to appropriate beer line length for different diameter line:
4mm
1.5 metres – 2 metres
5mm
2 metres – 3 metres
6.35mm
3 metres – 4 metres
KegLand Font Kits come with pre-cut lengths of beer and gas line. These are typically sized to allow at least 1.5m per length and thus do not need to be cut down in size.
If cutting your own lengths of beer line it is best to start at the upper end of the suggested range and cut the beer line down in size until the desired pour speed is achieved. The faster the pour, the more likely you will get too much head/foam in the glass and also a fast pour can 'knock' carbonation out of solution resulting in a beer with too much head but no carbonation!
Thus, for example, if starting with 4mm ID line start with a 2m length and cut down in 100mm lengths until the desired pour is achieved.
4mm ID line is often the best choice in a short draw (kegerator) setup as it means less overall length of beer line is required which means the kegerator will be less cluttered. It also reduces the amount of beer sitting in the lines between pours.
To see how much beer is in the line (approximately) please refer to this table:
4mm
1.5m
12.5ml
19ml
5mm
2m
20ml
40ml
6mm
3m
28ml
84ml
The downside of 4mm ID beer line is that it is quite hard to fit over barbs. We highly recommend using duotight fittings instead as they are very easy to use and install. They can also be readily swapped out if required - for example, if you decide to change the number of taps and kegs in your setup. All KegLand kegerator kits come with duotight fittings as standard.
If you are not sure about temperature, carbonation levels and CO2 pressure for serving, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the regulator to 12psi is appropriate for most situations.
To produce the perfect pour, a number of variables need to be balanced. These include the beer line length, carbonation level of the beer and storage temperature of the keg.
The temperature of the beer in the keg correlates directly to the carbonation level. Thus, a beer at 4°C will have less carbonation than a beer at 2°C at the same CO2 pressure.
For most styles of beer, you should be aiming for a carbonation level of between 2.2-2.8 volumes of carbonation. 2.6 volumes of carbonation can be considered a good average level for most beers. If you are unsure of the carbonation level of the beer IE If it is a commercial keg then assume it is at 2.6 volumes of carbonation.
To achieve a specific carbonation level refer to this Carbonation Chart and match the temperature of the kegerator to the desired carbonation level. Typically kegerators would be set to maintain a temperature between 0-3°C. Typically, 2°C is the perfect temperature for most beer styles.
The pressure at which you dispense the beer should be slightly higher than the carbonation pressure (~10% higher).
For example, to carbonate to 2.6 volumes at 2°C you would carbonate the beer at approximately 11psi and then serve the beer at approximately 12psi.
The pressure at which you serve the beer should be determined as above - thus the carbonation level determines the serving level. Do not try to fix a fast or slow pour by adjusting the pressure. Too low a pressure will result in flat beer, and too high a pressure will cause over-carbonation.
If you think that you have over carbonated your beer you may need to release the Pressure in the keg and then set it to your desired pressure according to the carbonation chart above. Do not release pressure in the keg by pulling the PRV on the regulator as this can result in liquid being pulled into the regulator and potentially causing damage to the regulator.
If you wish to have beers of different carbonation levels in the kegerator then you can use a KL10870 dual pressure regulator to have two different serving pressures. Alternatively a KL15035 inline regulator can be installed on the gas lines which allows individual control of each line.
This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the regulator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles
Series 4 User Guide | Comerrcial Kegs & Couplers
Commercial kegs primarily come in a range of sizes; 20L, 30L and 50L. 50L kegs are the most common size. Commercial kegs come in three main styles: A-type, D-type and S-type. These three types of commercial kegs can be distinguished by the shape of their spear (shown below).
In Australia A-type and D-type kegs are the most common. You will need to buy the specific keg coupler to fit the keg type, make sure that prior to buying a kegerator you know which type of keg you will be using and which keg coupler is required to dispense from this keg.
As a general rule, CUB and related breweries use D-Type Couplers, all other breweries use A-Type Couplers. S-Type Couplers are typically only used for fully imported beers.
The following diagram shows the different ypes of spear available:
Once you have the correct coupler to suit your keg it will need to be assembled and connected to the beer and gas line.
On a keg coupler there is an inlet for gas and an outlet for liquid. The gas inlet is positioned on a 45-degree angle and the liquid outlet is positioned vertically. It is important to connect the gas line and beer line to the correct inlet and outlet.
Inside the KegLand coupler box you will find two types of one-way check valves: a gas duck bill valve and a liquid torpedo check piece.
The duck bill valve is used for the gas inlet and the torpedo check piece or non-return ball is used for the liquid outlet. In a homebrew setting it may only be necessary to use a check valve in the gas inlet to prevent liquid flowing back in to the regulator.
To install the gas duck bill valve, remove the black EPDM washer from inside the 5/8” duotight fitting on the gas inlet and then insert the gas duck bill valve into the opening (as shown below). Then screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler.
To install the liquid torpedo check piece, remove the 5/8” duotight fitting keeping the black EPDM washer in place, then insert the ball and cage (in the order shown below) and then finally screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler. NOTE: The closed part of the cage must be at the top to hold the ball in place, otherwise this can block the beer from flowing.
Prior to attaching the keg coupler onto the keg make sure that a gas line is connected to the gas inlet and this gas line is connected to a regulator and a beer line is connected to the liquid outlet and this beer line is connected to a tap. Attaching the keg to the keg coupler is usually the last step of the kegerator setup.
Slide the keg coupler over the groove on the top of the keg then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg. NOTE: To fit a 50L keg with an A-type keg coupler into a kegerator or if your keg is a DIN style keg (tall skinny style) you will need to use a KL00390 Low Profile Elbow Bend
Push the coupler into the opening of the spear and then rotate firmly clockwise to attach the coupler to the spear. Then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg.
More detailed instructions on how to assemble and operate a keg coupler can be seen in this video:
Before connecting EVABarrier ito duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689 Tube Cutter
If the EVABarrier has been used previousLY, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.
Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.
Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.
NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue
To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.
While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.
Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.
KegLand Commercial Couplers are supplied with duotight fittings that make connecting EVABarrier gas and beer line quite easy.
However, if you plan on switching couplers or wish to use an alternative connection method that allows a bit more customisation, we recommend replacing the duotight fittings with Ball Lock Posts. When adding Ball Lock Posts to a coupler setup, it is recommended to also add a KL00390 Low Profile Elbow Bend which will make it easier to fit a 50L keg.
You will also need a KL00840 Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Liquid and a KL00833 Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Gas which will replace the duotight fittings on the coupler and allow you to use Ball Lock Disconnects on the beer and gas line instead
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Operation
The FermZIlla range (excluding the non pressure rated FermZilla Flat Bottom) are designed to be optimally used with CO2 pressure. They are not really designed for gravity only operation in the same manner as a fermenter with a tap.
However, there are some workarounds that can allow this, although it is not recommended.
If you intend to use FermZilla under pressure it is strongly advised to perform a leak test prior to commencing fermentation.
This will require access to an external pressure source such as a CO2 cylinder with a Type 30 MK4 regulator. To thoroughly pressure test the FermZilla it is best to perform a pressure decay leak test.
Assemble the FermZIlla according to the instructions
Pressurise the empty FermZilla to a minimum of 15psi (but not more than 35psi)
Turn the CO2 cylinder off and leave to sit for a few hours
Check the pressure in the FermZilla. If it has decreased substantially then there may be a leak that will need to be identified before using the FermZilla under pressure
A leak can occur from the Carbonation Caps, the lid, the butterfly valve assembly and/or the Collection Container assembly
To locate the leak you can pressurise the FermZilla and spray with soapy water to look for bubbles. Bubbles will identify the source of the leak. You can also fill a bucket with water and submerge both the Collection Container assembly and the lid of the FermZilla under water. Again, bubbles will identify exactly where the leak is.
Once the leak has been located, remove and inspect any fittings. If there is damage (such as a crack) then the fitting may need to be replaced. If a seal is damaged it may need to be replaced. If no damage is found then reassemble using food safe lube and retest.
Pressure Fermentation is a fantastic tool to have in your fermenting arsenal. In the commercial brewing world, most beers are fermented under pressure to some degree due to the size and shape of the tanks used. This means that the pressure at the bottom of the tank is quite significant even if no pressure has been applied to the tank.
Fermenting under pressure can have several positive benefits.
1: It can allow elevated temperatures with no off flavours. This in turn can lead to a faster and complete fermentation.
2: Fermenting under pressure can suppress esters and off flavours, leading to a cleaner beer in the glass.
3: Fermenting under pressure means that the CO2 produced in large quantities during fermentation can be dissolved back into solution - thus you can achieve complete carbonation y the time the beer is ready to keg.
NOTE: Not all beers styles are suited to pressure fermentation. Styles such as Belgian beers and Saisons rely on yeast expression and character and thus they are not really good candidates for pressure fermentation.
To ferment under pressure you will need either the Complete Pressure Brewing Kit:
30L FermZilla All Rounder Complete Pressure Brewing Kit
60L FermZilla All Rounder Complete Pressure Brewing Kit
Gen3 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Complete Pressure Brewing Kit
Gen3 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Complete Pressure Brewing Kit
Or you will need to purchase the following accessories for your FermZilla (NOTE: Required accessories can differ according to model. Check the product page or contact KegLand if unsure)
2 x KL10788 Carbonation Caps (we like to use Red for Gas, Yellow for Liquid for easy identification)
1 x KL17060 100cm Silicone Dip Tube Kit with Yellow Weighted Filter and SS Float
1 x KB03529 Integrated Gauge BlowTie Kit (0-15psi)
To transfer your finished beer you wll also need some spare transfer line and 2 x Ball Lock Disconnects. If you do not have spare transfer line then the Big Jumper Kit is ideal
For a comprehensive guide to Pressure Fermentation please check out this article: A Guide To Pressure Fermentation
To ferment under pressure simply replace the black plastic caps on the FermZilla lid with Carbonation Caps. Ensure the Silicon Dip Tube is cut to the correct length and connected to one of the caps using the barb.
Instead of using the airlock we will use a Blowtie Spunding Valve to control the pressure build up in the tank. Best practice is to not allow pressure build up for the first 24 hours after pitching yeast. This is because pressure can inhibit yeast growth.
For most fermentations, we recommend setting the Spunding Valve to allow pressure to build to 10-12psi. Under no circumstances should pressure be allowed to go to or higher than 35psi.
WARNING: If fermenting at high temperatures (above 35psi) do not also ferment under pressure. The combination of high temperature fermentation and pressure can cause failure.
WARNING: Ensure the butterfly valve is open during active fermentation, especially when fermenting under pressure. Failure to leave this open can cause unregulated pressure to build up in the Collection Container which can cause failure. The Butterfly Valve may be closed before filling the FermZilla with wort or after fermentation has finished and the gravity reading has been stable for three consecutive days.
To set the Spunding Valve two methods can be used.
Wind in the handle of the Spunding Valve (clockwise) and connect it to an empty, pressurised vessel with ball lock posts - a keg is ideal. Ensure the pressure in the keg is higher than the desired set pressure. Slowly unscrew the handle of the Spunding Valve until the desired pressure is reached. Once the Spunding Valve is just venting at the desired pressure it can be removed and put on the FermZilla
Once active fermentation is underway CO2 will be produced quite quickly. You can connect the Spunding Valve to the Gas Post of the FermZIlla and turn the handle clockwise. Pressure will build up over a few hours and thus you can check the FermZilla and valve every 15 minutes and adjust until the desired pressure is reached. NOTE: It is important to constantly monitor the FermZIlla when setting pressure manually in order to ensure there is no possibility of over pressurising the tank
When fermenting under pressure ensure that the FermZilla is depressurised prior to closing the Butterfly Valve, Removing the Collection Container or removing the FermZilla Lid
Once fermentation is finished, best practice is to cold crash the beer before transferring to your desired packaging.
To ensure that fermentation is complete before transferring, take a gravity reading across three consecutive days. If the gravity reading is stable and in the expected range we can be sure that fermentation is completed and the beer is ready!
As a pressure capable fermenter, the FermZilla range is the ideal fermenter for transferring into kegs. This can be easily done with no mess, fuss or risk of oxidation using a pressure transfer once the beer is finished.
FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Assembly
Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached
Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring
Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring
Use one of the bottle caps to close of one of the holes in the lid
Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve
Push the three piece airlock into the silicone bung then push both parts into the remaining hole in the lid
Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached
Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring
On the underside of the lid, push the silicone dip tube firmly onto the barb of the yellow Carbonation Cap*
Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve
Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring or Easy Grip Lid Ring
*Cutting the silicone dip tube so that the ball float just rests at the base of the FermZilla tank will give the best results when transferring the finished beer
Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached
Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring
Place the thread lid ring over the lid before assembling - once the Carbonation Caps are in place this will not fit over them
Thread a red and a yellow KL10788 Carbonation Caps onto each post. Do not overtighten - these are a wedge seal. Overtightening can crack the posts which will prevent a pressure seal
On the underside of the lid, push the silicone dip tube firmly onto the barb of the yellow Carbonation Cap*
Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve
Assemble the Butterfly Valve and Hop Bong. A 2" Tri-Clover clamp and beaded seal i used to secure the butterfly valve to the lid, and the Hop Bong to the butterfly valve. We recommend fitting a PRV 1881 Cap Combo to the side outlet of the Hop Bong
Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring
*Cutting the silicone dip tube so that the ball float just rests at the base of the FermZilla tank will give the best results when transferring the finished beer
Insert a bolt into a hole of each of the handles
Screw a nut onto the bolt. Don’t tighten this nut yet
Place the handles around the collar of the FermZilla as shown in the image below.
Insert the second bolt into the remaining holes on the handle and screw the remaining nut onto this bolt
Tighten the two nuts while holding the bolts to prevent them from spinning. Do not overtighten as it can warp the opening of the FermZilla. The handles should be able to freely rotate around the neck of the FermZilla. If they cannot rotate then it is too tight
*Stainless Handle Assembly not included with FermZIlla Easy-Grip models
Note: The Stainless Steel Float with Silicone Dip Tube and Mesh Filter (optional or part of the Pressure Brewing Pack) must be cut to the correct length before use.
For most situations, cutting the dip tube so that it sits at the base of the FermZilla when the tube is gently curved. We want the dip tube to be able to reach the bottom of the vessel but not so long that it will rest against the sides when transferring. See images below (Tri-Conical on the left, All Rounder on the right)
To gauge the correct length, lower the dip tube into the vessel until the desired length is acheived. Cut the dip tube where it reaches the top oif the neck of the FermZilla. Once cut to the correct length push it onto the yellow Carbonation Cap. Note: Carbonation Caps are Multi Posts, so can be used for gas or liquid. We use yellow for liquid and red (DANGER) for gas in order to be consistent and minimise the risk of error.
The Ball Float can be positioned in the optional float positions on the filter, using the three hoops on the filter. The filter will sit lower in solution when the ball float is attached closer to the end - see below
The best way to accurately apply the graduation sticker to the FermZilla tank is to first fill the tank with 5L of water.
This can be done using an accurate jug, or by weighing out 5kg water.
Once filled with 5L water, apply the graduation sticker so that ithe 5L line is level with the water. Ensure the FermZilla is on a level surface to ensure correct placement.
All Rounder FermZillas with pre-aqssembled Hex-Bases will need to have the graduation sticker cut to suit.
Grand Deluxe 3 | Setup & Assembly
Please refer to this video for a detailed walkthrough on assembling a kegerator. This is specific to the Series X range, but most of the information is relevant to all kegerator setups
Before plugging in the unit, ensure it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours after movement
Tools Required: Philips head screwdriver and wrench or spanner
Cut the straps securing the carton. WIth the assistance of another person, carefully lift the carton off the Grand Deluxe
Remove the protective foam and plastic cover
Remove any protective plastic from the kegerator before first use
Using a Philips head screwdriver, carefully unscrew the brackets that secure the Grand Deluxe to the shipping pallet
Using the supplied bolts, carefully install the castors in each corner and the middle of the Grand Deluxe. If tiliting the unit to install the castor wheels, ensure that the unit is left upright for 24 hours before turning on.
The contersunk drip trays are plumbed inside and outside the Grand Deluxe. The drain tube can be emptied into a bucket or similar and simply emptied periodically, or (using the external barb) this can be drained directly to a suitable floor drain.
Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise
Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and ensure there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder
Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 faucet tap wrench/spanner
The Mk4 regulator comes as standard with an 8mm x FFL duotight Fitting (KL06880)
Make sure the end of the EVABarrier hose doesn’t have any burrs and is cut straight and cleanly. Push the EVABarrier hose line firmly into the duotight fitting on the regulator and ensure it is secure up to the line indicated on the 8mm x FFL duotight fitting
On the right hand side of the Grand Deluxe is a gas port. This will need to be drilled out (we recommend an 8mm bit for a good fit) to accomodate the gas line.
The gas tubing can then be fed through the gas port into the kegerator. The gas line will also need to be tee'd off if you have two or more taps (duotight tee pieces included with Font Kit)
Remove the cap from the top of the font and ensure the font collar is present at the base of the font prior to attaching any duotight compatible short shanks
Feed the length of beer line through the tap hole on the front of the font and feed the beer line through the slimline nut and convex collet on the inside of the font
Push a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer onto the back of the duotight compatible short shank
Feed the tail and thread of the duotight compatible short shank through the tap hole and align the curvature of the shank and the concave collet with the curvature of the font
Push each length of beer line into a 6.5mm x 8mm reducer which is attached to a short shank
Tighten the slimline nut onto the thread of the duotight compatible short shank to secure the shank to the font tower
Repeat for all other duotight compatible short shanks and beer lines
Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator
Attach the font to the top of the kegerator by screwing the font onto the font mounting points using four metric M5 stainless steel screws.
Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a liquid ball lock disconnect or keg coupler
Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank
Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner
First, attach the font to the top of the kegerator using four metric M5 stainless steel screws. The mounting points can be found on the inside of the font and can be attached using a long screwdriver or flexible drill bit
Then attach the duotight compatible short shanks, duotight 6.5mm x 8mm reducer and beer line to the font tower as described in step 11. It is easiest to attach the shanks to the font tower in the order shown
Feed the beer lines from the duotight compatible short shanks into the kegerator.
Attach each EVABarrier beer line to a ball lock disconnect or keg coupler
Hand-tighten the tap (sold separately) onto the duotight compatible short shank
Tighten the short shank collar onto the tap using a 7 in 1 tap wrench/spanner
FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Cleaning
Cleaning is essential in order to ensure that you have trouble free fermentation and minimise the risk of infection or contamination. The recommended cleaner for the FermZilla range is StellarOxy. Stellarclean may also be used however it is important to limit contact time to 30 minutes or less as prolonged contact time with StellarClean PBW can degrade PET. StellarOxy is sufficient in most situations. StellarCleam PBW can be more effective on oils (for example, if using a large amount of dry hops in the FermZilla it can be preferable to use StellarClean.
Once cleaned the FermZilla should also be sanitised. StellarSan Sanitizer is the recommended sanitiser for interior surfaces. For exterior fittings such as carbonation caps etc, we recommend spraying with Ethyl Sanitiser Spray
NOTE: The FermZilla must be cleaned and sanitised before use.
Carefully release all pressure from the FermZilla vessel
Rinse the walls of the FermZilla vessel and the lid with cold water. A garden hose is particularly useful for rinsing and dislodging yeast/hop matter
Use a non-abrasive cloth (microfibre cloths are ideal) to remove any stuck on particulate matter from the walls of the FermZilla and lid
Fill the FermZilla with cold water and the correct dosage of StellarOxy or StellarClean according to the instructions on the tub. After 30 minutes of soaking, gently wipe away any soiling with a soft cloth. Make sure not to use harsh scrubbers that may scratch the plastic and create ideal places for batch-ruining bacteria to hide. NOTE: If using StellarClean it is important to limit contact time to 30 minutes
If there is a large amount of hops or yeast coating the walls of the fermenter it is best to perform a longer overnight wash using StellarOxy. Do not leave StellarClean in the vessel for longer than 30 minutes as this can damage the tank
Remove the lid and drain the StellarClean or StellarOxy solution and then rinse thoroughly using cold water - a garden hose is ideal for this
Fill the FermZilla with cold water again and add StellarSan according to the instructions on the bottle. Reattach the lid and shake the full FermZilla to coat all surfaces - contact time of 60 seconds is required for StellarSan to be effective. It is safe to leave StellarSan (at the correct dilution) in the tank. However, prolonged contact with StellarSan can cause harmless discolouration of the silicon dip tube
The Bucket Blaster is ideal for cleaning a FermZIlla.
Assemble the Bucket Blaster according to the instructions
Connect the Bucket Blaster to power, ensuring a Drip Loop is used as per the instructions
Fill the Bucket Blaster with water that is less than 40°C until the pump is fully submerged.
The the suggested correct dosage of StellarOxy or Stellarclean to the bucket. Ensure it is correctly diluted
Carefully release all pressure from the FermZilla vessel
Rinse the walls of the FermZilla vessel and the lid with cold water. A garden hose is particularly useful for rinsing and dislodging yeast/hop matter. This step is optional when using a Bucket Blaster but will help ensure thorough cleaning and speed the process up
Place the FermZilla upside down on the stand and insert the spray wand and jet into the opening of the vessel
Turn the pump on and allow the Bucket Blaster to do the rest
Once the FermZIlla is clean, repeat the cleaning process using clean water (no more than 40°C) to thoroughly rinse the FermZilla
Fill the FermZilla with cold water again and add StellarSan according to the instructions on the bottle. Reattach the lid and shake the full FermZilla to coat all surfaces - contact time of 60 seconds is required for StellarSan to be effective. It is safe to leave StellarSan (at the correct dilution) in the tank. However, prolonged contact with StellarSan can cause harmless discolouration of the silicon dip tube
If krausen or sticky wort has contacted the PRV you will need to clean the PRV to ensure it still activates at 35psi.
This can be easily done by releasing the pressure in the FermZilla by pulling on the ring pull until no pressure is left in the vessel, then unscrew the PRV.
Submerge this PRV in StellarClean solution to remove any sticky residue. Once all the residue has been removed, rinse and then sanitise the PRV with StellarSan or ethyl kill solution and screw back in to the pressure lid. The Carbonation Caps can also be removed, dismantled and cleaned in the same manner.
It is recommended to clean the PRV and Carbonation Caps every few brews to ensure that no sticky wort build up causes issues.
When fermenting under pressure or if fermentation has been particularly active or vigourous krausen or beer may enter the Spunding Valve. In this situation the Spunding Valve will need to be disassembled and cleaned to ensure it operates correctly.
Follow these steps to disassemble and clean a Spunding Valve
Completely remove the yellow adjustment knob and spring
Unscrew the four large screws on the face of the Blowtie Spunding Valve and the two small screws on the housing of the integrated pressure gauge
Remove the integrated pressure gauge housing and the integrated pressure gauge by gently pulling up on the dial
Remove the face of the BlowTie Spunding Valve
Remove the diaphragm assembly
Remove the collets on the duotight fittings
Remove the o-rings within the duotight fittings
Soak all components in StellarClean solution for 30 minutes and then reassemble
This process is also covered in this video
KL01564 30L Pail Fermenter Kit | Cleaning & User Guide
The 30L Pail Fermenter Kit comes with the following
1 x 30L KegLand Wide Pail Fermenter & Lid with Pail Fermenter Decal (not sold separately)
1 x KL01625 Black Grommet. (Pre-Drilled and installed within lid)
1 x KL10672 3/4" Black Fermenter Tap (KL12911 Sediment reducer compatible) / (silicone hose / bottling wand ready)
1 x KL01595 3 Piece Sanitary Airlock made of PP (dishwasher safe)
1 x KL01618 Strip Stick On Thermometer
FREE! 1 x KegLand Beverage Tag
To assemble the 30L Pail Fermenter Kit remove the bag containing the accessories.
Thread the 3/4" Black Fermenter Tap into the corresponding thread hole at the bottom of the fermenter. A seal is not required as this is a plastic on plastic. The tap does not have a hard stop and thus needs to be tightened sufficiently to seal and be in the correct downwards orientation as pictured.
The 3 piece airlock can be instered directly into the pre-installed grommet in the lid.
The thermometer strip should be applied to the side of the fermenter so that the top of the thermometer will be below the liquid level of the pail fermenter when in use to ensure it is as accurate as possible
The lid is a wedge seal - no washer or o-ring is required
The fermenter and all components must be cleaned and sanitised before use.
To clean the 30L Pail Fermenter mix up a solution at the recommended dilution rate of KL05494 StellarClean - 1kg Tub - Powerful Brewery Wash (PBW) directly in the fermenter. PBW works faster at hot temperatures.
Use a microfibre cloth to thoroughly clean all internal and external surfaces of the fermenter.
When clean, open the tap to drain PBW solution through the tap (into a suitable receptacle or sink). This will also clean the tap.
Next, partially fill the fermenter with clean, warm water to rinse. Using a clean microfibre cloth, ensure that all surfaces are rinsed thoroughly.
When rinsed, open the tap to drain the fermenter through the tap (into a suitable receptacle or sink). This will also rinse the tap.
To sanitise, add between 1-5L of clean water to the fermenter. Add KL05357 StellarSan Sanitiser - 500mL Split Chamber Bottle - Phosphoric Sanitiser at the recommended dilution to this. Seal the fermenter with the lid and airlock, and ensure the tap is closed. Gently shake the fermenter for at least 60 seconds, ensuring that all interior surfaces come into contact with the sanitiser solution.
When sanitised, open the tap to drain the fermenter through the tap (into a suitable receptacle or sink). This will also sanitise the tap. NOTE: The sanitiser solution can also be stored for re-suse (for example) it can be used in the airlock during fermentation.
Once cleaned, rinsed and sanitised, the 30L Pail Fermenter is ready for use!
Add the wort: Add the wort to the fermenter and top up if needed (for example if using a Fresh Wort Kit such as Fresh3 that may require further dilution). If the wort is at pitching temperature, proceed to step 3
Cool if necessary: If the wort is too hot for the yeast the fermenter can be sealed and the airlock added before pitching. The fermenter can be immersed in an ice bath or placed in a fridge large enough to hold it until thw wort is at pitching temeprature.
Pitch the yeast: Pitch the yeast onto the wort once it is at pitching temperature(typically 16-24°C). Dry yeast can typically be sprinkled directly onto the wort and liquid yeast can be poured directly into the fermenter.
Close the fermenter: Seal the lid securely onto the fermenter.
Install the airlock: Half fill the 3 piece airlock with sanitiser solution at the correct dilution and insert securely in the grommet in the lid.
Monitor temperature: Keep the fermenter at the recommended temperature for your yeast strain to control fermentation.
Monitor activity: Observe the airlock for signs of fermentation. Bubbles in the airlock indicate that CO2 is being off-gassed which is a good indicator of yeast activity.
Fermentation completion: Take gravity readings over a few days. Fermentation is complete when the gravity is stable across three days and has reached your expected target. You may also see yeast flocculating (clumping) at the bottom of the fermenter.
Optional diacetyl rest: If you have temperature control, raise the temperature slightly for the last few days to allow the yeast to reabsorb byproducts like diacetyl and to ensure complete fermenation.
Cold crash: If you have temperature control, lower the temperature to -1°C to 2°C for a few days to help clear the beer and improve yeast flocculation.
Bottling: Use a bottling wand to fill bottles from the bottom up in order to minimise oxidation. Add priming sugar to either the fermenter or the bottles to carbonate the beer. Carbonation Drops are ideal for adding directly to the bottle. For a guide to bottling please refer to A Beginner's Guide To Bottling HomeBrew
Kegging: Use tubing attached to the tap or an auto-siphon to transfer the beer to a keg. Minimize splashing to prevent oxygenation - ideally fill from the bottom up. Oxidation can negatively affect flavor and shelf stability. For a guide to kegging please refer to The Ultimate Guide to Kegging Your Homebrew
FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Fermentation
The FermZIlla range (excluding the non pressure rated FermZilla Flat Bottom) are designed to be optimally used with CO2 pressure. They are not really designed for gravity only operation in the same manner as a fermenter with a tap.
However, there are some workarounds that can allow this, although it is not recommended.
If you intend to use FermZilla under pressure it is strongly advised to perform a leak test prior to commencing fermentation.
This will require access to an external pressure source such as a CO2 cylinder with a Type 30 MK4 regulator. To thoroughly pressure test the FermZilla it is best to perform a pressure decay leak test.
Assemble the FermZIlla according to the instructions
Pressurise the empty FermZilla to a minimum of 15psi (but not more than 35psi)
Turn the CO2 cylinder off and leave to sit for a few hours
Check the pressure in the FermZilla. If it has decreased substantially then there may be a leak that will need to be identified before using the FermZilla under pressure
A leak can occur from the Carbonation Caps, the lid, the butterfly valve assembly* and/or the Collection Container assembly*
*FermZilla Tri-Conical model only
To locate the leak you can pressurise the FermZilla and spray with soapy water to look for bubbles. Bubbles will identify the source of the leak. You can also fill a bucket with water and submerge the lid of the FermZilla under water. Again, bubbles will identify exactly where the leak is.
Once the leak has been located, remove and inspect any fittings. If there is damage (such as a crack) then the fitting may need to be replaced. If a seal is damaged it may need to be replaced. If no damage is found then reassemble using food safe lube and retest.
Pressure Fermentation is a fantastic tool to have in your fermenting arsenal. In the commercial brewing world, most beers are fermented under pressure to some degree due to the size and shape of the tanks used. This means that the pressure at the bottom of the tank is quite significant even if no pressure has been applied to the tank.
Fermenting under pressure can have several positive benefits.
1: It can allow elevated temperatures with no off flavours. This in turn can lead to a faster and complete fermentation.
2: Fermenting under pressure can suppress esters and off flavours, leading to a cleaner beer in the glass.
3: Fermenting under pressure means that the CO2 produced in large quantities during fermentation can be dissolved back into solution - thus you can achieve complete carbonation y the time the beer is ready to keg.
NOTE: Not all beers styles are suited to pressure fermentation. Styles such as Belgian beers and Saisons rely on yeast expression and character and thus they are not really good candidates for pressure fermentation.
To ferment under pressure you will need either the Complete Pressure Brewing Kit:
30L FermZilla All Rounder Complete Pressure Brewing Kit
60L FermZilla All Rounder Complete Pressure Brewing Kit
Gen3 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Complete Pressure Brewing Kit
Gen3 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Complete Pressure Brewing Kit
Or you will need to purchase the following accessories for your FermZilla (NOTE: Required accessories can differ according to model. Check the product page or contact KegLand if unsure)
2 x KL10788 Carbonation Caps (we like to use Red for Gas, Yellow for Liquid for easy identification)
1 x KL17060 100cm Silicone Dip Tube Kit with Yellow Weighted Filter and SS Float
1 x KB03529 Integrated Gauge BlowTie Kit (0-15psi)
To transfer your finished beer you will also need some spare transfer line and 2 x Ball Lock Disconnects. If you do not have spare transfer line then the Big Jumper Kit is ideal
For a comprehensive guide to Pressure Fermentation please check out this article: A Guide To Pressure Fermentation
To ferment under pressure simply replace the black plastic caps on the FermZilla lid with Carbonation Caps. Ensure the Silicon Dip Tube is cut to the correct length and connected to one of the caps using the barb.
Instead of using the airlock we will use a Blowtie Spunding Valve to control the pressure build up in the tank. Best practice is to not allow pressure build up for the first 24 hours after pitching yeast. This is because pressure can inhibit yeast growth.
For most fermentations, we recommend setting the Spunding Valve to allow pressure to build to 10-12psi. Under no circumstances should pressure be allowed to go to or higher than 35psi.
WARNING: If fermenting at high temperatures (above 35psi) do not also ferment under pressure. The combination of high temperature fermentation and pressure can cause failure.
To set the Spunding Valve two methods can be used.
Wind in the handle of the Spunding Valve (clockwise) and connect it to an empty, pressurised vessel with ball lock posts - a keg is ideal. Ensure the pressure in the keg is higher than the desired set pressure. Slowly unscrew the handle of the Spunding Valve until the desired pressure is reached. Once the Spunding Valve is just venting at the desired pressure it can be removed and put on the FermZilla
Once active fermentation is underway CO2 will be produced quite quickly. You can connect the Spunding Valve to the Gas Post of the FermZIlla and turn the handle clockwise. Pressure will build up over a few hours and thus you can check the FermZilla and valve every 15 minutes and adjust until the desired pressure is reached. NOTE: It is important to constantly monitor the FermZIlla when setting pressure manually in order to ensure there is no possibility of over pressurising the tank
When fermenting under pressure ensure that the FermZilla is depressurised prior to closing the Butterfly Valve, Removing the Collection Container or removing the FermZilla Lid
Once fermentation is finished, best practice is to cold crash the beer before transferring to your desired packaging.
To ensure that fermentation is complete before transferring, take a gravity reading across three consecutive days. If the gravity reading is stable and in the expected range we can be sure that fermentation is completed and the beer is ready!
As a pressure capable fermenter, the FermZilla range is the ideal fermenter for transferring into kegs. This can be easily done with no mess, fuss or risk of oxidation using a pressure transfer once the beer is finished.
FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | What's Included
FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Hydro Test Guide
This instruction sheet contains vital information that is related to safely performing a hydro test of a FermZilla tank which is past its Hydro Test date. It is vital that you read this instruction sheet from front to back before performing this test!
THIS IS FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY
Hydrotesting is a simple process that anyone can do at home with relatively basic tools and equipment.
If you have any doubts in the process or do not have time to do the hydrotest then once the tank has expired you should not continue to use the tank under pressure. Replacement new tanks can be purchased from KegLand Distributors
All FermZillas have a Date Stamp on the tank body as below
This date is the date after which the tank needs to be Hydro Tested before using under pressure.
NOTE: If you are not using the FermZilla under pressure then it does not require hydrotesting.
The Date Stamp on the FermZilla tank is 24 months after the manufacture date. This is a good guide as to when the tank requires hydro testing.
However, if the FermZilla has been correctly stored in the original, unopened carton then it is not required to Hydro Test until 24 months from the date of purchase.
The tank will remain in 'as new' condition when stored correctly in an unopened carton as it is not exposed to UV or chemicals etc.
Please make a note of the date of purchase of the FermZilla and ensure it is Hydro Tested 24 months from the date of purchase
Do not perform the Hydro Test with an empty tank
Fill the tank with water to the brim before testing.
The reason it is important to fill the tank with water when testing is because water is incompressible. This means in the event that the tank fails the test the resulting rupture will be safe. If the tank is filled with compressible gas such as CO2 then the failure will have significantly more stored energy and the resultant failure can be much more dangerous.
Thus it is important to completely fill the tank with water prior to testing
Assemble the FermZilla (if required). Fill the tank to the brim with water
Remove the red 2.5bar PRV from the FermZilla lid and replace with a grey 6.5bar PRV. NOTE: Ensure this PRV is swapped back for the red 2.5bar PRV immediately the test is complete. DO not operate the FermZilla with the incorrect PRV installed
Once the FermZilla is filled with water and the lid in place, slowly apply pressure to the tank. It is important to apply pressure in a controlled manner. There are two methods to apply pressure in a controlled manner
Connect mains pressure water to a length of 6.35mm EVABarrier with an inline regulator and liquid disconnect. You can use a KL13888 duotight - 6.35mm (1/4'') x 3/4 inch BSP Thread Female to connect to a 3/4" tap outlet, or a KL17756 6.35mm Diverter Valve 1/2" BSP to connect to a standard under sink outlet
Use a short length of KL42789 Black Lightshield 6.35mm EVABarrier, a KL26918 6.35mm Inline Regulator and a KL24235 6.35mm duotight Disconnect - Liquid to make a mains connected water line with inline regulation and a liquid disconnect to attach to the liquid post on the FermZilla
Connect a KL11532 duotight 0-150psi push in gauge to a KL20756 8mm duotight Disconnect - Gas. This will be used on the FermZilla to accurately measure the pressure in the tank
Ensure the Inline Regulator is set to 0psi - the yellow knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise. Connect the liquid disconnect to the liquid post of the FermZilla.
Connect the gas disconnect and gauge to the gas post of the FermZIlla
Slowly turn the yellow handle of the Inline Regulator until the pressure reaches 4 bar (60psi). Confirm this pressure on the gauge attached to the gas post of the FermZilla. Note: It is normal for the FermZilla tank to swell in size and stretch during the hydro test
Once 4 bar has been reached, stop increasing pressure. Leave everything connected for 1 minute. Remove the liquid disconnect (connecting the tank to mains pressure water). Inspect the FermZilla tank. If the tank has not failed then the FermZilla has been successfully passed the Hydro Test and does not need testing for a further 24 months
If there are any visible cracks or damage, or if the tank ruptures then the Hydro Test has failed and the tank will need to be replaced
Fill a Cornelius Keg and the FermZilla to be tested completely with water
Connect the Cornelius Keg to a regulated gas source such as a KL01489 2.6kg or KL01496 6kg CO2 cylinder and and a KL07429 MK4 Type 30 Regulator
Ensure the line out from the regulator is terminated with a gas disconnect such as a KL20756 8mm duotight Disconnect - Gas
Ensure the regulator is set to 0psi - the knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise
Daisy chain the Cornelius Keg from the Liquid (Out) Post of the keg to the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to be tested using a length of EVABarrier and 2 x Liquid Disconnects. A length of KL06224 4mm x 8mm EVABarrier and 2 x KL20749 8mm duotight Disconnects - Liquid is ideal for this
Connect a KL11532 duotight 0-150psi push in gauge to a KL20756 8mm duotight Disconnect - Gas. This will be used on the FermZilla to accurately measure the pressure in the tank. Connect the gas disconnect and gauge to the gas post of the FermZIlla
Slowly and in a controlled manner adjust the regulator until the pressure reaches 4 bar (60psi). Confirm this pressure on the gauge attached to the gas post of the FermZilla. Ensure that water is being transferred into the FermZilla, not gas. Note: It is normal for the FermZilla tank to swell in size and stretch during the hydro test
Once 4 bar has been reached, stop increasing pressure. Leave everything connected for 1 minute. Remove the liquid disconnect connect the keg to the FermZIlla. Inspect the FermZilla tank. If the tank has not failed then the FermZilla has been successfully passed the Hydro Test and does not need testing for a further 24 months
If there are any visible cracks or damage, or if the tank ruptures then the Hydro Test has failed and the tank will need to be replaced
FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Identifying & Fixing Leaks
If you suspect that your FermZilla has a leak it is important to properly test this.
Leak testing is not typically viable when fermentation is in progress. It is also possible to mis-identify the FermZilla as having a leak due to factors such as CO2 dissolving into solution (during cold crash, for example) or other factors.
Unless the tank itself is cracked (in which case it will need to be replaced) then the All Rounder range can only leak from the lid or neck of the FermZilla.
There are two ways to test and identify the location of a leak.
Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with food grade lube
Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)
Spray or lightly sponge the entirety of the lid and neck of the FermZilla with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Ensure the lid collar, the whole of the lid and the Carbonation Caps, threads and PRV are covered.
Examine the lid and neck for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the lid or neck of the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak
If any leaks are detected, please refer to Fixing Leaks
Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with food grade lube
Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)
Half fill a suitable bucket or container (large enough to fit the FermZilla) with cold water
Invert the FermZilla into the bucket, ensuring that it is submerged past the lid
If a steady stream of bubbles, or slow but regular bubbles are visible, then the FermZilla may have a leak
If the exact position of the leak cannot be determined (if the vessel is not large enough to see the whole lid, for example) then perform a Detergent Bubble Test to identify the location of the leak
Unless the tank itself is cracked (in which case it will need to be replaced) then the Tri-Conical range can only leak from the lid, Collection Container or Butterfly Valve assembly of the FermZilla.
There are two ways to test and identify the location of a leak.
Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with food grade lube
Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)
Spray or lightly sponge the entirety of the lid and neck of the FermZilla with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Ensure the lid collar, the whole of the lid and the Carbonation Caps, threads and PRV are covered.
Examine the lid and neck for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the lid or neck of the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak
Spray or lightly sponge the threads/caps/Carbonation Caps of the Collection Container with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Also spray or lightly sponge the Butterfly Valve assembly and the flange and clamps of the assembly
Examine the bottom assembly (Collection Container, Butterfly Valve and 2" TC flange) for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak
If any leaks are detected, please refer to Fixing Leaks
Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with food grade lube
Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)
Half fill a suitable bucket or container (large enough to fit the FermZilla) with cold water
Invert the FermZilla into the bucket, ensuring that it is submerged past the lid
After checking the lid, lower the FermZIlla into the vessel so that the bottom assembly (Collection Container, Butterfly Valve and 2" TC flange) are submerged
If a steady stream of bubbles, or slow but regular bubbles are visible, then the FermZilla may have a leak
If the exact position of the leak cannot be determined (if the vessel is not large enough to see the whole lid, for example) then perform a Detergent Bubble Test to identify the location of the leak
Once a leak has been identified the cause of the leak needs to be determined and corrected.
If the leak is from the lid itself or the neck of the FermZilla then remove the lid and inspect the threads of the FermZilla tank for cracking. If a crack is located then the tank will need to be replaced.
Remove and insect the lid o-ring from the inner lid. Inspect the o-ring for burrs, cuts or damage. If this is damaged it will need to be replaced with a Replacement Lid Seal
Inspect the threads of the Threaded Lid Ring and the Pressure Lid for cracks, nicks or damage. If this is the source of the leak it will need to be replaced.
Once parts are inspected and/or replaced as needed, ensure the o-ring and threads are lubricated with food grade lube and repeat the above tests.
If the lid is still leaking make sure that the stainless-steel handles are not too tight. Loosen these\ handles (or remove) and then perform another leak test. The handles should only be hand tight as too tight can result in distortion of the neck of the Fermzilla
Inspect the threads on the Collection Container. If any cracks are found this will need to be replaced. Ensure that the threads are lubed and the Carbonation Caps are only hand tightened when replacing fittings.
Inspect the Tri-Clover beaded seals for nicks or damage. If these are damaged they will need to be replaced.
If no physical issues are found carefully reassemble the Collection Container and Butterfly Valve. Lubricate the beaded seals and all threads with food grade lube. Reassemble and retest the FermZilla.
If you are still experiencing issues please send through a video to the email [email protected] showing where the leak is occurring (leak test) and photos of the condition of the lid and o-ring.
G20 Glycol Chiller | Troubleshooting
Front Controllers not working
Not turned on
Turn controller on by holding Down button for 3 seconds*
Transformer issue
Check transformer to ensure 12V DC is output
EE Error
Probes not plugged in
The Front Controllers will display EE and the alarm will sound if they are turned on when the temperature probe is not installed. Install the temperature probe or turn the controller off to clear the EE error
Front Controllers cycling on and off
Time Delay issue
Set a time delay on one of the controllers - to any value other than 1 to do this
Pump Blockage
If the pumps are blocked due to contaminaints or ice build up in the reservoir this cn cause excessive power draw. Empty, clean and flush the reservoir then test again
Pump Faliure
If a pump has failed for some reason (for example, ice build up) this can cause power cycling. Turn each controller off by holding the down button for 3 seconds, then turn on one by one to isolate this. If the issue is isolated to one controller test that pump
Reservoir not reaching Set Point Temperature
Thermal Loss
If the reservoir does not reach the Set Point Temperature when cooling, this can be due to thermal loss in the system. See below
Insufficient Clearance
A minimum of 100mm clearance is required on each side of the glycol chiller to ensure adequate heat dissipation for the condensers. Move the unit into open space to improve cooling efficiency
Set Point may be incorrect
Check the and adjust if needed.
Pumps not working
Set Point Temperature not correct
The pumps will cycle on or off as called by the cooling relay of the front controller. If the ambient temperature is higher than the set point, the pump will activate. Check that the set point temperature is lower than the measured temperature
Temperature probe in wrong location
For the most accurate results use a thermowell in the fermenter wto insert the temperature probe
Faulty or blocked pumps
See above for troubleshooting steps
Heat Relay on but unit is not getting wram/hot
No Heating Device installed
Refer to to install an (optional) heating device
*NOTE: The display will illuminate if the up button is pushed whether or not the controller is turned on. If the display immediately goes off this indicates the controller is not turned on.
The cooling power of the Glycol Chiller is independant of the cooling power of the system - IE the system when connected to fermenter(s). For best results it is important to minimise thermal loss by insulating all lines and fermenters, running as short a line as possible, and ensuring inlets and outlets of cooling coils or jackets are correctly connected.
If the Glycol Chiller is not cooling as expected, or if it is not cooling to the current set point, this can indicate that the thermal losses in the system are too great for the Glycol Chiller to overcome.
To determine if this is a issue with the unit or if it is an issue with the setup it is important to test the cooling Power of the Glycol Chiller independantly.
To do this, the Gylcol Chiller must be isolated from the fermenters and tubing connecting to the fermenters. We want to only test the cooling power of the reservoir. To do this, remove any existing tubing and run a short length of 10mm ID tubing from the outlet and linlet of each pump as below:
When disconnected, fill the reservoir with fresh gylcol solution or with water. NOTE: If using water do not set the reservoir temperature below 2° as this may cause freezing issues.
Make a not of the starting temperature - this will be the ambient temperature or thereabouts. Make a note of the time this reading is taken.
Set the reservoir to 0°C (if using glycol) or 2°C if using water.
Leave the Glycol Chiller to run, checking every 10 minutes to observe and note the temperature of the reservoir.
When the set point temperature has been reached, make a note of the total time taken to reach this temperature.
If the Glycol Chiller takes a long time to reach the set point temperature - in excess of 6 hours* then there may be an issue with the Glycol Chiller preventing it from cooling effectively - see Reservoir not reaching Set Point Temperature Troubleshootiing above.
*NOTE: This number is a guide only and external factors will play a part in performance.
If the set point temperaure is reached in a reasonable timeframe then it is likely that any cooling issues are caused by thermal loss in the system. To combat this, reduce the line length, check that the inlet and outlet are the right way round and insulate the fermenter(s).
It is recommended to set the reservoir temperature to around -5°C when using glycol solution when crash cooling (for example)
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Hydro Test Guide
This instruction sheet contains vital information that is related to safely performing a hydro test of a FermZilla tank which is past its Hydro Test date. It is vital that you read this instruction sheet from front to back before performing this test!
THIS IS FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY
Hydrotesting is a simple process that anyone can do at home with relatively basic tools and equipment.
If you have any doubts in the process or do not have time to do the hydrotest then once the tank has expired you should not continue to use the tank under pressure. Replacement new tanks can be purchased from KegLand Distributors
All FermZillas have a Date Stamp on the tank body as below
This date is the date after which the tank needs to be Hydro Tested before using under pressure.
NOTE: If you are not using the FermZilla under pressure then it does not require hydrotesting.
The Date Stamp on the FermZilla tank is 24 months after the manufacture date. This is a good guide as to when the tank requires hydro testing.
However, if the FermZilla has been correctly stored in the original, unopened carton then it is not required to Hydro Test until 24 months from the date of purchase.
The tank will remain in 'as new' condition when stored correctly in an unopened carton as it is not exposed to UV or chemicals etc.
Please make a note of the date of purchase of the FermZilla and ensure it is Hydro Tested 24 months from the date of purchase
Do not perform the Hydro Test with an empty tank
Fill the tank with water to the brim before testing.
The reason it is important to fill the tank with water when testing is because water is incompressible. This means in the event that the tank fails the test the resulting rupture will be safe. If the tank is filled with compressible gas such as CO2 then the failure will have significantly more stored energy and the resultant failure can be much more dangerous.
Thus it is important to completely fill the tank with water prior to testing
Assemble the FermZilla (if required). Fill the tank to the brim with water
Remove the red 2.5bar PRV from the FermZilla lid and replace with a grey 6.5bar PRV. NOTE: Ensure this PRV is swapped back for the red 2.5bar PRV immediately the test is complete. DO not operate the FermZilla with the incorrect PRV installed
Once the FermZilla is filled with water and the lid in place, slowly apply pressure to the tank. It is important to apply pressure in a controlled manner. There are two methods to apply pressure in a controlled manner
Connect mains pressure water to a length of 6.35mm EVABarrier with an inline regulator and liquid disconnect. You can use a KL13888 duotight - 6.35mm (1/4'') x 3/4 inch BSP Thread Female to connect to a 3/4" tap outlet, or a KL17756 6.35mm Diverter Valve 1/2" BSP to connect to a standard under sink outlet
Use a short length of KL42789 Black Lightshield 6.35mm EVABarrier, a KL26918 6.35mm Inline Regulator and a KL24235 6.35mm duotight Disconnect - Liquid to make a mains connected water line with inline regulation and a liquid disconnect to attach to the liquid post on the FermZilla
Connect a KL11532 duotight 0-150psi push in gauge to a KL20756 8mm duotight Disconnect - Gas. This will be used on the FermZilla to accurately measure the pressure in the tank
Ensure the Inline Regulator is set to 0psi - the yellow knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise. Connect the liquid disconnect to the liquid post of the FermZilla.
Connect the gas disconnect and gauge to the gas post of the FermZIlla
Slowly turn the yellow handle of the Inline Regulator until the pressure reaches 4 bar (60psi). Confirm this pressure on the gauge attached to the gas post of the FermZilla. Note: It is normal for the FermZilla tank to swell in size and stretch during the hydro test
Once 4 bar has been reached, stop increasing pressure. Leave everything connected for 1 minute. Remove the liquid disconnect (connecting the tank to mains pressure water). Inspect the FermZilla tank. If the tank has not failed then the FermZilla has been successfully passed the Hydro Test and does not need testing for a further 24 months
If there are any visible cracks or damage, or if the tank ruptures then the Hydro Test has failed and the tank will need to be replaced
Fill a Cornelius Keg and the FermZilla to be tested completely with water
Connect the Cornelius Keg to a regulated gas source such as a KL01489 2.6kg or KL01496 6kg CO2 cylinder and and a KL07429 MK4 Type 30 Regulator
Ensure the line out from the regulator is terminated with a gas disconnect such as a KL20756 8mm duotight Disconnect - Gas
Ensure the regulator is set to 0psi - the knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise
Daisy chain the Cornelius Keg from the Liquid (Out) Post of the keg to the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to be tested using a length of EVABarrier and 2 x Liquid Disconnects. A length of KL06224 4mm x 8mm EVABarrier and 2 x KL20749 8mm duotight Disconnects - Liquid is ideal for this
Connect a KL11532 duotight 0-150psi push in gauge to a KL20756 8mm duotight Disconnect - Gas. This will be used on the FermZilla to accurately measure the pressure in the tank. Connect the gas disconnect and gauge to the gas post of the FermZIlla
Slowly and in a controlled manner adjust the regulator until the pressure reaches 4 bar (60psi). Confirm this pressure on the gauge attached to the gas post of the FermZilla. Ensure that water is being transferred into the FermZilla, not gas. Note: It is normal for the FermZilla tank to swell in size and stretch during the hydro test
Once 4 bar has been reached, stop increasing pressure. Leave everything connected for 1 minute. Remove the liquid disconnect connect the keg to the FermZIlla. Inspect the FermZilla tank. If the tank has not failed then the FermZilla has been successfully passed the Hydro Test and does not need testing for a further 24 months
If there are any visible cracks or damage, or if the tank ruptures then the Hydro Test has failed and the tank will need to be replaced
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Pressure Transfers
One of the main advantages of a pressurisable FermZilla is the ability to transfer the finished beer into a keg under pressure. This enables a closed transfer with neither the keg nor the FermZilla needing to be opened so that it is possible to all but completely eliminate the risk of oxidation/O2 ingress.
This is a fantastic boon for the avid homebrewer - avoiding oxidation when transferring helps all beers, especially modern hoppy styles such as NEIPAs.
Whilst fermenting under pressure can be performed using just the CO2 generated during fermentation, most pressure transfers will require a source of CO2 and a regulator. Options for this include a refillable or and a . If space is limited a cylinder and a are great options.
There are two easy ways to transfer your beer under pressure. The first step is to sanitise and purge the keg to be filled with CO2.
Once the keg has been cleaned and rinsed, completely fill the keg with sanitiser solution such as StellarSan diluted to the correct ratio
Invert the keg for 120 seconds, then put the right way up to make sure that all surfaces some into contact with the sanitiser
Connect the keg to CO2 at around 10psi. Pull the PRV a couple of times to purge the small amount of headspace
Next we need to push the sanitiser out of the keg. Ideally connect the full keg to an empty, clean keg. Connect the two Liquid (Out) Posts with a short length of line. Put a Spunding Valve on the Gas Post of the empty keg. Use this to vent pressure in the empty keg at around 5psi. The pressure differential will push the sanitiser from the full keg to the empty keg
If you do not have an empty keg then the sanitiser can be transferred into any vessel of around 20L, or simply emptied into the sink.
Once the transfer is complete, the empty keg will now be sanitised and purged of O2. It will also have some residual pressure which is ideal for transferring from the FermZilla
A can also be repurposed to detect sanitiser rather than beer - check out this video. It is a great way to automate this process.
Before transferring the finished beer into a keg, we want to ensure that it is completely fermented. Taking a gravity reading over three consecutive is is the best way to ensure this. If the reading is stable for three consecutive days we can be sure that the fermentation is finished.
Before transferring the completed beer, it is ideal to cold crash the beer.
Cold crashing is quite simple if you have temperature control for your FermZilla. Simply set the temperature to -1-2°C (or as low as you can if it will not go this low). Once the desired cold crash temperature has been achieved, leave the finished beer at this temperature for 2-4 days. This will 'cold crash' the finished beer. Cold crashing helps a lot with getting solids such as hop matter, yeast and other solids in suspension to drop out of the beer. It also helps to compact the trub in the fermenter. Cold crashing is therefore very beneficial for transferring a clean beer into the keg, minimising trub in the keg.
If you cannot cold crash that is OK. The integrated filter on the floating dip tube will assist greatly in preventing hop matter etc from being transferred into the keg.
IMPORTANT: Before cold crashing, you must add pressure to the FermZilla. Positive pressure of approximately 10psi is required. before cold crashing. This is because as the beer gets chilled, CO2 in the headspace will be absorbed into solution. If there is not sufficient pressure (CO2) in the head space, this can cause negative pressure in the FermZilla which can cause the tank to be deformed once the atmospheric pressure is higher than the internal pressure.
Ideally, hooking the FermZilla to CO2 at around 10psi when cold crashing will prevent this, and also help to carbonate the beer before it is transferred.
To transfer the finished beer using pressure you will need a transfer line (a short length of line with a liquid disconnect on each end) and a Spunding Valve, as well as a purged, empty keg.
Following the guide to , you will have a sanitised, O2 free keg with a small amount of residual pressure in it.
Connect the FermZilla to a regulated source of CO2. Set the regulator to ~10psi
Turn the handle of the Spunding Valve clockwise (so that it does not let out pressure). Put the Spunding Valve on the Gas In Post of the sanitised keg
Adjust the Spunding Valve until it is venting at a pressure slightly lower than the pressure in the FermZilla (~7psi). Starting the transfer with a small pressure difference will help to minimise foaming issues
Connect the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to the Liquid Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the )
The pressure differential will 'push' the finished beer into the keg
Once the transfer is under way, you can adjust the Spunding Valve down to about 5psi. The greater pressure differential will speed up the transfer process
Once the transfer is complete, disconnect the transfer line from both posts. Remove the Spunding Valve from the keg. Remove the gas line from the FermZilla
Congratulations! The finished beer is now kegged and ready to go. It should now be p[laced in a kegerator or similar ready for dispensing. If it was fermented and cold crashed under pressure then it will already be partially or completely carbonated. Connect the keg to CO2 at 10-12psi to complete carbonation if required
Another method of pressure transferring the completed beer is a Closed Loop Gravity Transfer. This method is very useful if you wish to do a completely closed transfer (whereby no CO2 is vented during the process). This can be beneficial for super oppy beers as no hop aroma will be 'blown off' during the transfer process.
Another benefit of a closed transfer is that no additional CO2 is required - the residual pressure in the FermZIlla should be sufficient.
A Closed Loop transfer is effectively a siphon. Thus, the keg must be lower than the FermZilla for the transfer to complete.
Following the guide to , you will have a sanitised, O2 free keg with a small amount of residual pressure in it.
Ensure that there is at least 5psi (ideally ~10psi) pressure in the FermZilla
Position the FermZilla and the keg so that the FermZilla is higher than the keg
Connect the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to the Liquid Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the )
Provided there is less pressure in the keg than the FermZilla, beer will start to transfer. If beer does not begin to flow, pull the PRV of the keg to lower the pressure in the keg until the transfer begins
Once the transfer is underway, connect the Gas Post of the FermZilla to the Gas Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the ). This will keep the pressures equalised between the FermZilla and the keg, enabled the transfer to complete as a siphon
Once the transfer is complete, disconnect the transfer line from both liquid posts. Remove the gas line from the FermZilla and the keg
Congratulations! The finished beer is now kegged and ready to go. It should now be p[laced in a kegerator or similar ready for dispensing. If it was fermented and cold crashed under pressure then it will already be partially or completely carbonated. Connect the keg to CO2 at 10-12psi to complete carbonation if required
NOTE: There are several ways to either stop the transfer automatically once the keg is full, or alternatively to monitor the process so that it is easy to determine when to stop the transfer.
A is an easy and inexpensive way to automatically stop the transfer. Simply place the Flow Stopper on the Gas Post of the target keg (you can use a longish length of line in order to add a Spunding Valve to this as well).
A simple method is to place the keg on before filling. TARE the weright to zero once everything is assembled, and stop filling at around 18.5kg - this will ensure the keg is filled below the gas dip tube.
If the beer has been cold crashed prior to transfer, then you can use the condensation line on the keg as a guide.
For a more precise guide for transferring cold crashed beer, a is a great way to help gauge fill volume during the transfer.
FermZilla All Rounder 30L & 60L | Pressure Transfers
One of the main advantages of a pressurisable FermZilla is the ability to transfer the finished beer into a keg under pressure. This enables a closed transfer with neither the keg nor the FermZilla needing to be opened so that it is possible to all but completely eliminate the risk of oxidation/O2 ingress.
This is a fantastic boon for the avid homebrewer - avoiding oxidation when transferring helps all beers, especially modern hoppy styles such as NEIPAs.
Whilst fermenting under pressure can be performed using just the CO2 generated during fermentation, most pressure transfers will require a source of CO2 and a regulator. Options for this include a refillable or and a . If space is limited a cylinder and a are great options.
There are two easy ways to transfer your beer under pressure. The first step is to sanitise and purge the keg to be filled with CO2.
Once the keg has been cleaned and rinsed, completely fill the keg with sanitiser solution such as StellarSan diluted to the correct ratio
Invert the keg for 120 seconds, then put the right way up to make sure that all surfaces some into contact with the sanitiser
Connect the keg to CO2 at around 10psi. Pull the PRV a couple of times to purge the small amount of headspace
Next we need to push the sanitiser out of the keg. Ideally connect the full keg to an empty, clean keg. Connect the two Liquid (Out) Posts with a short length of line. Put a Spunding Valve on the Gas Post of the empty keg. Use this to vent pressure in the empty keg at around 5psi. The pressure differential will push the sanitiser from the full keg to the empty keg
If you do not have an empty keg then the sanitiser can be transferred into any vessel of around 20L, or simply emptied into the sink.
Once the transfer is complete, the empty keg will now be sanitised and purged of O2. It will also have some residual pressure which is ideal for transferring from the FermZilla
A can also be repurposed to detect sanitiser rather than beer - check out this video. It is a great way to automate this process.
Before transferring the finished beer into a keg, we want to ensure that it is completely fermented. Taking a gravity reading over three consecutive is is the best way to ensure this. If the reading is stable for three consecutive days we can be sure that the fermentation is finished.
Before transferring the completed beer, it is ideal to cold crash the beer.
Cold crashing is quite simple if you have temperature control for your FermZilla. Simply set the temperature to -1-2°C (or as low as you can if it will not go this low). Once the desired cold crash temperature has been achieved, leave the finished beer at this temperature for 2-4 days. This will 'cold crash' the finished beer. Cold crashing helps a lot with getting solids such as hop matter, yeast and other solids in suspension to drop out of the beer. It also helps to compact the trub in the fermenter. Cold crashing is therefore very beneficial for transferring a clean beer into the keg, minimising trub in the keg.
If you cannot cold crash that is OK. The integrated filter on the floating dip tube will assist greatly in preventing hop matter etc from being transferred into the keg.
IMPORTANT: Before cold crashing, you must add pressure to the FermZilla. Positive pressure of approximately 10psi is required. before cold crashing. This is because as the beer gets chilled, CO2 in the headspace will be absorbed into solution. If there is not sufficient pressure (CO2) in the head space, this can cause negative pressure in the FermZilla which can cause the tank to be deformed once the atmospheric pressure is higher than the internal pressure.
Ideally, hooking the FermZilla to CO2 at around 10psi when cold crashing will prevent this, and also help to carbonate the beer before it is transferred.
To transfer the finished beer using pressure you will need a transfer line (a short length of line with a liquid disconnect on each end) and a Spunding Valve, as well as a purged, empty keg.
Following the guide to , you will have a sanitised, O2 free keg with a small amount of residual pressure in it.
Connect the FermZilla to a regulated source of CO2. Set the regulator to ~10psi
Turn the handle of the Spunding Valve clockwise (so that it does not let out pressure). Put the Spunding Valve on the Gas In Post of the sanitised keg
Adjust the Spunding Valve until it is venting at a pressure slightly lower than the pressure in the FermZilla (~7psi). Starting the transfer with a small pressure difference will help to minimise foaming issues
Connect the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to the Liquid Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the )
The pressure differential will 'push' the finished beer into the keg
Once the transfer is under way, you can adjust the Spunding Valve down to about 5psi. The greater pressure differential will speed up the transfer process
Once the transfer is complete, disconnect the transfer line from both posts. Remove the Spunding Valve from the keg. Remove the gas line from the FermZilla
Congratulations! The finished beer is now kegged and ready to go. It should now be p[laced in a kegerator or similar ready for dispensing. If it was fermented and cold crashed under pressure then it will already be partially or completely carbonated. Connect the keg to CO2 at 10-12psi to complete carbonation if required
Another method of pressure transferring the completed beer is a Closed Loop Gravity Transfer. This method is very useful if you wish to do a completely closed transfer (whereby no CO2 is vented during the process). This can be beneficial for super oppy beers as no hop aroma will be 'blown off' during the transfer process.
Another benefit of a closed transfer is that no additional CO2 is required - the residual pressure in the FermZIlla should be sufficient.
A Closed Loop transfer is effectively a siphon. Thus, the keg must be lower than the FermZilla for the transfer to complete.
Following the guide to , you will have a sanitised, O2 free keg with a small amount of residual pressure in it.
Ensure that there is at least 5psi (ideally ~10psi) pressure in the FermZilla
Position the FermZilla and the keg so that the FermZilla is higher than the keg
Connect the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to the Liquid Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the )
Provided there is less pressure in the keg than the FermZilla, beer will start to transfer. If beer does not begin to flow, pull the PRV of the keg to lower the pressure in the keg until the transfer begins
Once the transfer is underway, connect the Gas Post of the FermZilla to the Gas Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the ). This will keep the pressures equalised between the FermZilla and the keg, enabled the transfer to complete as a siphon
Once the transfer is complete, disconnect the transfer line from both liquid posts. Remove the gas line from the FermZilla and the keg
Congratulations! The finished beer is now kegged and ready to go. It should now be p[laced in a kegerator or similar ready for dispensing. If it was fermented and cold crashed under pressure then it will already be partially or completely carbonated. Connect the keg to CO2 at 10-12psi to complete carbonation if required
NOTE: There are several ways to either stop the transfer automatically once the keg is full, or alternatively to monitor the process so that it is easy to determine when to stop the transfer.
A is an easy and inexpensive way to automatically stop the transfer. Simply place the Flow Stopper on the Gas Post of the target keg (you can use a longish length of line in order to add a Spunding Valve to this as well).
A simple method is to place the keg on before filling. TARE the weright to zero once everything is assembled, and stop filling at around 18.5kg - this will ensure the keg is filled below the gas dip tube.
If the beer has been cold crashed prior to transfer, then you can use the condensation line on the keg as a guide.
For a more precise guide for transferring cold crashed beer, a is a great way to help gauge fill volume during the transfer.
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Cleaning
Cleaning is essential in order to ensure that you have trouble free fermentation and minimise the risk of infection or contamination. The recommended cleaner for the FermZilla range is . may also be used however it is important to limit contact time to 30 minutes or less as prolonged contact time with StellarClean PBW can degrade PET. StellarOxy is sufficient in most situations. StellarCleam PBW can be more effective on oils (for example, if using a large amount of dry hops in the FermZilla it can be preferable to use StellarClean.
Once cleaned the FermZilla should also be sanitised. is the recommended sanitiser for interior surfaces. For exterior fittings such as carbonation caps etc, we recommend spraying with
NOTE: The FermZilla must be cleaned and sanitised before use.
Carefully release all pressure from the FermZilla vessel and collection container
Remove the FermZilla collection container, tri-clover butterfly Valve and the lid
Rinse the walls of the FermZilla vessel, collection container, lid and butterfly valve (including the external face of the butterfly valve) with cold water. A garden hose is particularly useful for rinsing and dislodging yeast/hop matter
Use a non-abrasive cloth (microfibre cloths are ideal) to remove any stuck on particulate matter from the walls of the FermZilla, lid, collection vessel and butterfly valve
Reattach the butterfly valve and close the valve, leaving the collection vessel unattached
Rinse the collection vessel by filling it with cold water and or according to the instructions on the tub, attach the lid and shake to dislodge any yeast/hop matter
Then fill the FermZilla with cold water and the correct dosage of or according to the instructions on the tub. After 30 minutes of soaking, gently wipe away any soiling with a soft cloth. Make sure not to use harsh scrubbers that may scratch the plastic and create ideal places for batch-ruining bacteria to hide. NOTE: If using StellarClean it is important to limit contact time to 30 minutes
If there is a large amount of hops or yeast coating the walls of the fermenter it is best to perform a longer overnight wash using . Do not leave StellarClean in the vessel for longer than 30 minutes as this can damage the tank
Remove the lid and drain the StellarClean or StellarOxy solution by opening the butterfly valve and then rinse thoroughly using cold water - a garden hose is ideal for this
Fill the FermZilla and collection vessel with cold water again and add according to the instructions on the bottle. Reattach the lid and shake the full FermZilla to coat all surfaces - contact time of 60 seconds is required for StellarSan to be effective. It is safe to leave StellarSan (at the correct dilution) in the tank. However, prolonged contact with StellarSan can cause harmless discolouration of the silicon dip tube
The is ideal for cleaning a FermZIlla.
Assemble the Bucket Blaster according to the
Connect the Bucket Blaster to power, ensuring a Drip Loop is used as per the instructions
Fill the Bucket Blaster with water that is less than 40°C until the pump is fully submerged.
The the suggested correct dosage of or to the bucket. Ensure it is correctly diluted
Carefully release all pressure from the FermZilla vessel and collection container
Remove the FermZilla collection container, tri-clover butterfly Valve and the lid
Rinse the walls of the FermZilla vessel, collection container, lid and butterfly valve (including the external face of the butterfly valve) with cold water. A garden hose is particularly useful for rinsing and dislodging yeast/hop matter. This step is optional when using a Bucket Blaster but will help ensure thorough cleaning and speed the process up
Reattach the butterfly valve and collection container and ensure the valve is open
Place the FermZilla upside down on the stand and insert the spray wand and jet into the opening of the vessel
Turn the pump on and allow the Bucket Blaster to do the rest
Once the FermZIlla is clean, repeat the cleaning process using clean water (no more than 40°C) to thoroughly rinse the FermZilla
Fill the FermZilla and collection vessel with cold water again and add according to the instructions on the bottle. Reattach the lid and shake the full FermZilla to coat all surfaces - contact time of 60 seconds is required for StellarSan to be effective. It is safe to leave StellarSan (at the correct dilution) in the tank. However, prolonged contact with StellarSan can cause harmless discolouration of the silicon dip tube
If krausen or sticky wort has contacted the PRV you will need to clean the PRV to ensure it still activates at 35psi.
This can be easily done by releasing the pressure in the FermZilla by pulling on the ring pull until no pressure is left in the vessel, then unscrew the PRV.
Submerge this PRV in StellarClean solution to remove any sticky residue. Once all the residue has been removed, rinse and then sanitise the PRV with StellarSan or ethyl kill solution and screw back in to the pressure lid. The Carbonation Caps can also be removed, dismantled and cleaned in the same manner.
It is recommended to clean the PRV and Carbonation Caps every few brews to ensure that no sticky wort build up causes issues.
When fermenting under pressure or if fermentation has been particularly active or vigourous krausen or beer may enter the Spunding Valve. In this situation the Spunding Valve will need to be disassembled and cleaned to ensure it operates correctly.
Follow these steps to disassemble and clean a Spunding Valve
Completely remove the yellow adjustment knob and spring
Unscrew the four large screws on the face of the Blowtie Spunding Valve and the two small screws on the housing of the integrated pressure gauge
Remove the integrated pressure gauge housing and the integrated pressure gauge by gently pulling up on the dial
Remove the face of the BlowTie Spunding Valve
Remove the diaphragm assembly
Remove the collets on the duotight fittings
Remove the o-rings within the duotight fittings
Soak all components in StellarClean solution for 30 minutes and then reassemble
This process is also covered in this video

































FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Tips, Tricks & Accessories
The FermZIlla range is distinguished by being pressure capable fermenters which allow fermenting and transferring beer under pressure. There are also a number of super handy accessories available to improve your beer and your brewing! The FermZilla range has a number of advantages over more traditional fermenters on the market.
As a pressure capable fermenter, the FermZilla can be treated as an all in one fermentation and dispensing unit. If the FermZilla is equipped for pressure fermentation, simply ferment and cold crash as normal. Once the cold crash is complete, there is no need to transfer to a keg.
Simply connect the FermZilla to CO2 using the Gas Post, and connect a tap of some kind to the Liquid Post. Once connected (and the beer is chilled and carbonated) you are good to go!
Recommended taps include the NukaTap Mini FC Disconnect Kit, the Nylon Composite Pluto Gun and the duo-Bronco/duo-Picnic Party Tap. These are all great options to have to hand for pulling samples during fermentation (to check gravity etc).
To harvest the yeast from a fermentation it is as simple as waiting for fermentation to be complete. Ideally perform a cold crash to cause yeast in suspension to flocculate out. Once fermentation is done and the beer is transferred, simply close the Butterfly Valve and remove the Collection Container.
The Collection Container can then simply be capped and placed in the fridge to be pitched into the next brew. Otherwise the yeast and trub can be carefully decanted in sanitised jars or similar and stored in the fridge until ready to use. Yeast harvested and stored in this manner will remain viable for approximately one month.
It is always best to minimise introducing oxygen (O2) into the beer once fermentation is underway. Oxidation can cause off flavours (typically described as a 'cardboard' taste). Oxidation can also seriously impact hop flavour and aroma, resulting in a loss of both flavour and aroma. Low Oxygen Dry Hopping procedures are great for hoppy beer styles such as NEIPAs, XPAs, Pale Ales etc.
The FermZilla Tri-conical offer low oxygen dry hopping capability with very few extra required parts and is quite easy and quick to introduce into your normal fermentation schedule.
To use the Collection Container for LODO (Low Dissolved Oxygen) dry hopping replace once of the black PCO1881 caps with a KL10788 Carbonation Cap. This allows you to easily connect CO2 to the collection container. Use the other post to attach a Red PRV 1881 Cap Combo.
To use the Collection Container for dry hopping, it must first be cleaned and sanitised. It is quite useful to have a separate Collection Container for this purpose. These instructions assume that the Collection Container has already been removed, cleaned and sanitised and the Butterfly Valve is closed on the FermZilla Tri-Conical.
Place the required dry hops in the sanitised Collection Container
Attach the Collection Container to the the 3" Butterfly Valve at the base of the FermZilla Tri-Conical
Set your regulator to between 5-10psi and connect the gas ball lock disconnect to the Carbonation Cap on the Collection Container
While connected and pressurised, pull the PRV on the Collection Container several times. This will purge and refill the container with CO2, effectively displacing the O2 in the Collection Container
Once purged, disconnect the CO2 and open the Butterfly Valve to introduce the hops into the FermZilla tank
The Hop Bong is a fantastic way to dry hop in a FermZilla without introducing O2 (LODO). The Hop Bong is suitable for all pressure capable FermZillas (the Tri-Conical and the All Rounder). It can be purchased as a standalone unit (if you have the required Carbonation Caps, dip tube etc) or as a complete kit.
The Hop Bong assembly can be attached at the start of fermentation. It can also be added to the lid at any stage - simply keep the 2" Butterfly Valve closed until the Hop Bong has been attached.
Remove the lid of the Hop Bong by undoing the 2" Tri Clover clamp
Add the required dry hop to the Hop Bong
Replace the lid on the Hop Bong and secure the 2" Tri-Clover clamp
Set your regulator to between 5-10psi and connect the gas ball lock disconnect to the Carbonation Cap on the Hop Bong
While connected and pressurised, pull the PRV on the lid of the Hop Bong several times. This will purge and refill the container with CO2, effectively displacing the O2 in the Hop Bong
Once purged, disconnect the CO2 and open the Butterfly Valve to introduce the hops into the FermZilla tank
For more information and detailed instructions for the Hop Bong, please refer to this video
The RAPT Pill Hydrometer & Thermometer is the perfect accessory for the FermZilla range! Unlike stainless fermenters, the FermZilla is made of transparent PET. PET is easy to clean, sanitary and also transparent to WiFi signals, making the use of a network capable floating hydrometer such as the RAPT Pill very simple. Using the RAPT Pill connected to your home network (or to another RAPT device such as a RAPT Temperature Controller via Bluetooth) you can get near real time gravity and temperature readings from directly inside the FermZilla! This unlocks powerful and easy fermentation and temperature control and is a highly recommended upgrade.
More more information please refer to this video
The RAPT - Fermentation Chamber is the most capable Fermentation Chamber on the market. It was designed from the ground up to hold 2 x 30L FermZilla All Rounders, 1 x 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical (with or without Hop Bong) or 1 x FermZilla 60L All Rounder or 55L Tri-Conical. With built in heating and cooling, WiFi and Bluetooth* connectivity and connection and control via the RAPT ecosystem it is the easiest and most advanced method of fermentation control on the market!
*Bluetooth connectivity works only in conjunction with a RAPT Pill Hydrometer & Thermometer
For more information, please refer to this video
The FermZilla range can also be used in conjunction with a glycol chiller such as the G20 - Glycol Chiller
You will need to install a thermowell for the temperature probe and also a cooling coil such as the Temp Twister. All FermZilla lids have ports marked for drilling in order to fit these accessories. Otherwise, a pre-drilled lid can also be purchased. These can also be installed in the 2" TC Pressure Lid which enables the use of the Hop Bong in conjunction with a glycol setup.
Due to the shape of the FermZIlla range (the conical shape of the Tri-Conical FermZilla and the rounded base of the All Rounder) you can skip the whirlpool in the kettle and just transfer everything! The hops and trub will simply settle out. You can then use the Collection Container of the Tri-Conical to dump this (if desired). In addition, when transferring under pressure, we are only drawing clear beer from the surface during the process, greatly minimising the amount of solids that can make their way into the keg.
By attaching a ball lock post to the bottom of the Collection Container, you now have a variety of removable options at your fingertips.
You can connect a KL21821 sanitised duo-Bronco / duo-Picnic Party Tap mounted to a KL24235 6.35mm duotight Disconnect to allow to take hydrometer samples. Simply slip some 10mm hose over the end of the tap and you now have a simple bottling gun!
Just make sure the FermZilla is elevated so that gravity can carry the beer down to the bottle. You may need to remove some of the trub and yeast sediment before using this method to get clear beer. Crash chilling after fermentation will make the trub compact faster.
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Assembly
Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached
Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring
Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring
Use one of the bottle caps to close of one of the holes in the lid
Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve
Push the three piece airlock into the silicone bung then push both parts into the remaining hole in the lid
Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached
Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring
On the underside of the lid, push the silicone dip tube firmly onto the barb of the yellow Carbonation Cap*
Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve
Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring or Easy Grip Lid Ring
*Cutting the silicone dip tube so that the ball float just rests at the base of the FermZilla tank will give the best results when transferring the finished beer
Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached
Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring
Place the thread lid ring over the lid before assembling - once the Carbonation Caps are in place this will not fit over them
Thread a red and a yellow KL10788 Carbonation Caps onto each post. Do not overtighten - these are a wedge seal. Overtightening can crack the posts which will prevent a pressure seal
On the underside of the lid, push the silicone dip tube firmly onto the barb of the yellow Carbonation Cap*
Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve
Assemble the Butterfly Valve and Hop Bong. A 2" Tri-Clover clamp and beaded seal i used to secure the butterfly valve to the lid, and the Hop Bong to the butterfly valve. We recommend fitting a PRV 1881 Cap Combo to the side outlet of the Hop Bong
Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring
*Cutting the silicone dip tube so that the ball float just rests at the base of the FermZilla tank will give the best results when transferring the finished beer
Insert a bolt into a hole of each of the handles
Screw a nut onto the bolt. Don’t tighten this nut yet
Place the handles around the collar of the FermZilla as shown in the image below.
Insert the second bolt into the remaining holes on the handle and screw the remaining nut onto this bolt
Tighten the two nuts while holding the bolts to prevent them from spinning. Do not overtighten as it can warp the opening of the FermZilla. The handles should be able to freely rotate around the neck of the FermZilla. If they cannot rotate then it is too tight
*Stainless Handle Assembly not included with FermZIlla Easy-Grip models
Place the 3” tri-clover seal and butterfly valve onto the 3” tri-clover ferrule on the tank
Best practice is to use a small amount of food grade lube on the seal before assembly
Fasten the butterfly valve in place onto the tank using the 3” tri-clover 3-piece clamp, ensuring that the seal is seated in the groove on the butterfly valve and tank
Note: It is good practice to lubricate tri-clover seals using food-grade lube to help form a hermetic seal
IMPORTANT: Depressurise the vessel prior to disassembling the butterfly dump valve.
To release the pressure in the vessel, pull the ring on the PRV on the lid until there is no audible hissing heard (this is caused by CO2 escaping from the tank)
Once the vessel is depressurised the butterfly valve can be removed by loosening the 3” tri-clover clamp which holds the butterfly valve in place
The Collection Container has many uses. The primary function is for collecting and harvesting yeast. However, it can also be used for several other purposes such as:
Reagent Bottle
Dry Hopping Bottle
Beer Sampling Bottle
Collection and disposal of unwanted turb or hop material
Carbonation of small samples
Yeast culturing container
The FermZilla 600ml Collection Container is made from heat resistant Tritan plastic. This is robust, heat and chemical resistant and can also handle extended contact with hot liquid at 100°C (212°F)
Note: The current generation of 600ml Tri-Conical Collection Containers are made from a reformulated version of Tritan which is substantially tougher. This makes it more resistant to damage (if dropped etc) and less likely to crack if excessive force is used (when threading carbonation caps, for example).
This generation can be identified by a small raised circle on the base next to the cap thread - see below
Best practice is to use a small amount of food grade lube on the seal before assembly
The caps on the 600ml collection jar can be replaced with red and yellow KL10788 Carbonation Caps or a PCO1881 threaded PRV Cap Combo as desired
Place the 3" beaded tri-clover seal in the groove on the top of the collection container.
Assemble this against the corresponding groove in the 3" tri-clover butterfly valve, and fasten with the 3” tri-clover 3-piece clamp, ensuring that the seal is seated in the groove on the butterfly valve and collection container
It is extremely important that if you have wort in the Collection Container attached that you keep the butterfly valve open during the entirety of the fermentation process. The butterfly valve should only be closed once fermentation has ceased which is to be determined by three consecutive days of the same Specific Gravity reading.
To remove the Collection Container once fermentation has ceased it is important to depressurise the entire system. To release the pressure in the vessel, open the butterfly valve if necessary (note: this will already be open during normal fermentation) and pull the ring on the PRV until there is no audible hissing from the PRV. It is also a good idea to loosen one of the carbonation caps on the collection vessel to ensure the Collection Container is completely depressurised.
Once the system is depressurised the butterfly valve should then be closed if there is liquid in the FermZilla. Then the Collection Container can be detached from the butterfly valve by removing the lower 3” tri-clover 3-piece clamp. This clamp can then be used to secure the lid on the collection jar if desired.
If the Collection Container is sealed after removing it is vital that fermentation cannot continue as this can cause unregulated pressure build up. We recommend storing Collection Containers in the fridge to help prevent this possibility.
Note: The Stainless Steel Float with Silicone Dip Tube and Mesh Filter (optional or part of the Pressure Brewing Pack) must be cut to the correct length before use.
For most situations, cutting the dip tube so that it sits at the base of the FermZilla when the tube is gently curved. We want the dip tube to be able to reach the bottom of the vessel but not so long that it will rest against the sides when transferring. See images below (Tri-Conical on the left, All Rounder on the right)
To gauge the correct length, lower the dip tube into the vessel until the desired length is acheived. Cut the dip tube where it reaches the top oif the neck of the FermZilla. Once cut to the correct length push it onto the yellow Carbonation Cap. Note: Carbonation Caps are Multi Posts, so can be used for gas or liquid. We use yellow for liquid and red (DANGER) for gas in order to be consistent and minimise the risk of error.
The Ball Float can be positioned in the optional float positions on the filter, using the three hoops on the filter. The filter will sit lower in solution when the ball float is attached closer to the end - see below
The best way to accurately apply the graduation sticker to the FermZilla tank is to first fill the tank with 5L of water.
This can be done using an accurate jug, or by weighing out 5kg water.
Once filled with 5L water, apply the graduation sticker so that ithe 5L line is level with the water. Ensure the FermZilla is on a level surface to ensure correct placement.
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Inclusions


G20 Glycol Chiller | Initial Setup & Testing
If Glycol Chiller has been moved/delivered do not turn it on unless it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours. Failure to do this will void warranty and may damage the unit. Leave the Glycol Chiller upright for at least 24 hours before plugging in mains power after receiving and unboxing
Ensure there is at least 100mm of clearance on each side of the Glycol Chiller to allow adequate airflow. Faailure to allow adequate ventilation will reduce performance, increase power consumption and void warranty
This Glycol Chiller is not intended for cooling wort from boiling or temperatures above 50°C. Using the chiller to cool liquids above 50°C can overload the compressor and will void warranty
Do not run the pumps dry or allow the reservoir to ice over. Ensure the pumps are always submerged when in operation. Running the pumps dry or incresed resistance due to ice formation can damge the pumps.
Whenever the glycol chiller is operating and cooling the reservoir the pumps should be operating to keep the liquid in the reservoir agitated and avoid ice formation
Replace propylene glycol solution every 12 months to avoid potential damage to pumps, lines or reservoir
Let the glycol chiller sit for at least 24 hours after delivery or after sitting on its side before turning the unit on
Ensure there is adequate ventilation (at least 100mm on each side of the glycol chiller)
Check for any signs of damage which may have occurred during shipping
First, attach the Sight Glass to the G20 by firmly pushing the included 9.5mm duotight Tee Pieces onto the push fit tubing on the front of the unit as shown.
Check that there are 9.5mm duotight plugs in the opposite end. Install the EVABarrier Sight Glass bewteen the two fittings as shown. Pull firmly on the duotight fittings ensuring they are locked in place.
Next install two lengths of 10mm ID silicone tubing to the OUT barbs. Connect each of these to the adjacent IN barbs as shown. This is to loop the input and output for testing.
With the G20 unplugged fill the reservoir with water until the water level reaches the top of the sight glass
Install the temeprature probes - push the male connector of the temperature probe into the female socket by each temeprature controller.
First, attach the preassembled Sight Glass to the G20 by threading the 1/2" Quick Swivel Connector onto the corresponding 1/2" male thread on the front of the G20 as shown.
Lock the Sight Glass assembly in place as indicated.
The JoinTech fittings form a dry break, so for testing there is no requirement to loop the input and output as with the non JoinTech G20.
With the G20 unplugged fill the reservoir with water until the water level reaches the top of the sight glass
Install the temeprature probes - push the male connector of the temperature probe into the female socket by each temeprature controller as in the above diagram.
Perform a leak test and cooling test on your system to ensure that all connections are water tight, the pumps are operational and the glycol chiller is chilling the reservoir correctly
With the G20 unplugged fill the reservoir with water until it reaches the top of the sight glass
Check for any signs of leaks around the exterior of the G20
Ensure 10mm ID silicone tubing is attached as shown above - not required for JoinTech
Plug the G20 in using the provided IEC cable and turn the red power switch on
Set the temperature on each temperature controller on the front of the G20 to 2°C
Hold the ‘Up’ button for 3 seconds until the number is flashing (this flashing number is your set temperature)
Press the ‘Down’ button to decrease the set temperature and press the ‘Up’ button to increase the set temperature
Check that each pump is operating correctly
This can be determined by looking for water flow through the silicone tubes or by placing the outlet hose into a jug and ensuring that liquid is being pumped out of the hose into the jug
Set the temperature on the STC-1000 controller on the rear of the G20 above the IEC plug to 2°C
Hold the ‘S’ button until F1 is displayed
Press ‘S’ again which will enter temperature adjustment mode
Then hold ‘S’ and up or down buttons simultaneously to adjust the set point temperature of the reservoir
Once the desired temperature has been entered, press and release the power key to save the parameter
NOTE: Refer here for the full
Performing this test you can get a rough guide of the cooling factor of the glycol chiller when not under load. To determine this note the starting temperature of the water in the reservoir and then measure how long it takes to drop the temperature to 2°C
Prior to putting any beer into the fermenter for cooling you should leak test your whole system. Refer to specific to the G20 for this.
Set the temperature on the temperature controller to 2C and test that there are no leaks in the system including into the fermenter itself.
After all testing is complete, empty the reservoir by removing the plug on the bottom 3/8” duotight fitting on the nylon sight tube. This can be achieved by removing the blue retaining clip on the duotight fitting and pushing in on the collar as you pull on the plug. After you have drained the reservoir put the plug retaining clip back in place.
The system has now been tested for cooling and leaks and is ready to be used to cool a fermenter.
The G20 can be operated with either just water in the reservoir or both water and glycol to reduce the freezing point of water.
For fermentation control, a glycol mix is greatly preferred as the cooling power of the G20 will be much higher than if used wit water alone. This is because the glycol lowers the freezing point so the reservoir can be set to -5°C or lower (depending on ambient, the water/glycol mix and other factors)
IMPORTANT: If you are only using water in the reservoir and not glycol then do not set the temperature of the reservoir below 2°C
Fill the reservoir to the top of the sight galss with water or a water/glycol mix
if the reservoir is filled with water set the reservoir temperature controller to 2°C. If using glycol solution the reservoir temperature can be set below 2°C according to the table below.
Ensure the cooling coils are submerged. The amount of glycol required to be added to the reservoir depends on the desired set temperature of the reservoir which is dependent on a number of factors including how many fermenters are being cooled, the ambient temperature the fermenters are in and heat ingress etc. Use the table below to determine what percentage of glycol you require.
The reservoir temeprature is controlled with the STC-1000 Temperature Controller.
To set the reservoir temperature:
Hold the ‘S’ button until F1 is displayed
Press ‘S’ again which will enter temperature adjustment mode
Then hold ‘S’ and up or down buttons simultaneously to adjust the set point temperature of the reservoir
Once the desired temperature has been entered, press and release the power key to save the parameter
NOTE: Refer here for the full
Do not set the Set Point Temperature of the reservoir below 2°C if using water (instead of a glycol solution) in the reservoir (AKA an icebank setup)
Refer to the below for recommended Set Point Temerpares with corresponding glycol percentage
You can measure the glycol percentage using a calibrated refractometer and comparing to the specific gravity at 21°C in the above table.
We would advise running a 20% glycol solution. However, if you do not have a jacketed fermenter or have the fermenter in a very warm environment you can run it at a higher glycol concentration. The pumps are not designed to be run with a glycol concentration higher than 30% hence it is not advised to exceed this glycol concentration. Doing so may damage the pumps.
0
0.0°C
1.000
10
-3.3°C
1.006
20
-7.8°C
1.015
30
-13.3°C
1.024



















G20 Glycol Chiller | Operation
The temperature of the reservoir is controlled by the STC-1000 controller at the rear of the G20.
Locate the STC-1000 Temperature Controller
Hold the ‘S’ button until F1 is displayed
Press ‘S’ again which will enter temperature adjustment mode
Then hold ‘S’ and up or down buttons simultaneously to adjust the set point temperature of the reservoir
Once the desired temperature has been entered, press and release the power key to save the parameter
Set the temperature on the temperature controller for the reservoir to between -2° and -6°C if using glycol.
Do not set this to a temperature lower than recommended according to this table. If you are only using water in the reservoir and not glycol then do not set the temperature of the reservoir to below 2°C
NOTE: Refer here for the full STC-1000 Instruction manual
For fermentation control, a glycol mix is greatly preferred as the cooling power of the G20 will be much higher than if used wit water alone. This is because the glycol lowers the freezing point so the reservoir can be set to -5°C or lower (depending on ambient, the water/glycol mix and other factors)
IMPORTANT: If you are only using water in the reservoir and not glycol then do not set the temperature of the reservoir below 2°C
The G20.1 includes temperature controllers on the front of the G20 which controls the switching on and off of the submersible pumps and can also be wired to control an external heating source.
To maintain the desired fermentation temperature, set the front controller(s) connected to the fermenter cooling coil or jacket to the desired set point temperature. Ensure the temperature probe for that controller is in a thermowell for the correct fermenter, or taped to the outside of the fermenter and insulated.
To adjust the parameters of the temperature controllers on the front of the G20 follow these steps
The Cool Indicator flashes during startup delay
The Cool Indicator illuminates when cooling is active
The Heat Indicator* flashes during startup delay
The Heat Indicator* illuminates when heating is active
Heating is not installed in the Glycol Chiller. The heating relay can be optionally connected to a heating device
Hold the Down button for 3 seconds to turn the controller on or off
Hold the Up button for 3 seconds to display the current Set Point Temperature
The Set Point Temperature can be adjusted whether the controller is On or Off
Hold the ‘Up’ button for 3 seconds until the number on the display starts flashing (this number is the current set point temperature)
Press the ‘Down’ button to decrease the set temperature or press the ‘Up’ button to increase the set temperature
Once the correct Set Point Temperature is reached, release the buttons and the temperature will be saved once the display stops flashing. If the controller was off when this procedure started it will also turn off.
If the unit emits an alarm, press any key to cancel the alarm
Hold the “Up” and “Down” buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. The first menu code FO will appear on the display
Press the “Up” or “Down” buttons to cycle through the parameters F0-F13
Press both the “Up” and “Down” buttons simultaneously to alter the parameter which appears on the display
Press the “Up” or “Down” buttons to change the set value of the parameter selected
If there is no key operation within 5 seconds then the parameter will be set with the displayed value.
The parameters which can be modified are outlined below
F0
SetPoint range
-40.0 - 90.0
10.0
°C
F1
Minimum value for Set Point
-40.0 - F0
-40.0
°C
F2
Maximum value for Set Point
F0 - 90.0
90.0
°C
F3
Cooling Hysteresis
0.1 - 10.0
0.5
°C
F4
Heating Hysteresis
0.1 - 10.0
0.5
°C
F5
Temperature Probe Calibration
-10.0 - 10.0
0
°C
F6
Cooling Start Delay
1.0 - 10.0
1
Minute
F7
Cooling Start Delay after Power Failure
0 - 300
10
Second
F8
Heating Start Delay
1 - 10.0
1
Minute
F9
Heating Start Delay after Power Failure
0 - 300
10
Second
F10
Max temperature before alarm activation
F11 - 99.9
90.0
°C
F11
Min temperature before alarm activation
-45.0 - F10
-40.0
°C
F12
Alarm Delay
1 - 120
1
Minute
F13
Toggle Celsius/Fahrenheit
0-1
F
N/A
To change any settings on the rear STC-1000 Temperature Controller please refer here for the full STC-1000 Instruction manual
If the glycol solution has been stored for an extended period of time then it is suggested to replace the solution, despite glycol having antimicrobial properties.
To replace the glycol empty the reservoir using the drainage port and then refill with the required concentration of glycol using a refractometer to confirm the concentration.
NOTE: It is recommended to drain and replace the gylcol solution every 12 months to avoid freezing issues, as glycol can break down and lose effectiveness over time
Clean out dust from the radiator periodically to maintain optimum efficiency
Grand Deluxe 3 | Operation
Display Set Point or (in Programming Mode) select Paramater of confirm operation
Begin Manual Defrost Cycle
Increase displayed value or (in Programming Mode) cycle through displayed values
Decrease displayed value or (in Programming Mode) cycle through displayed values
Push theButton - this will display the current Set Point Temperature
To Adjust the Set Point Temperature
Hold theButton for 3 seconds until the display shows the current Set Point and the °C or °F symbol starts flashing
Use the or buttons to change the Set Point Temperature
Press theManual Defrost Button for more than 2 seconds to start a defrost cycle manually. The Defrost indicator will illuminate
The Dixell Controller has several advanced programabble features that can be tailired for individual situtations. In most ases, the default values will suit. However, as this is a commercial unit, we recommend programming the Defrost Cycle to a suitable length and interval to avoid ice build up. If ice is allowed to build up inside the compressor housing, this will negatively affect performance and potentially void warranty.
Enter the Programming mode by pressing the Button and or buttons for 3 seconds. The °C or °F symbol will start flashing
Select the required parameter using theor buttons
When the desired parameter is displayed, press the Button to display the current stored value of the parameter
Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter
Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter
To exit Programming Mode, press the Button and thebutton or wait for 15 seconds without pushing any buttons. This revert the controller.
The following parameters can be selected and adjusted in Programming Mode. To adjust any parameter, enter and navigate to the desired parameter
Hysteresis is the allowed differential from the Set Point Temperature before the compressor (cooling) operates. Thus, if the Set Point Temperature is 2°C and the Hysteresis is 2°C then the compressor will operate when the internal temperature reads 4°C, and it will continue to operate until the Set Point Temperature of 2°C is reached. The default hysteresis is 2°C, which is appropriate for most circumstances.
Note: Decreasing the hysteresis can increase power consumption
Enter and navigate to Hy using theor buttons
The Differential Range can be adjusted between 0.1-25°C or 1-45°F. The default is 4°C
Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Hysteresis
Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter
Enter and navigate to LS using theor buttons
The Minimum Set Point can be adjusted down to -55°C or -67°F. The default is 0°C
Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Minimum Set Point
Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter
Enter and navigate to US using theor buttons
The Maximum Set Point can be adjusted up to 99°C or °F. The default is 10°C
Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Maximum Set Point
Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter
If there is a large variance between the displayed temperature (IE the temperature of the internal temperature probe and the actual internal temperature of the kegerator (as measureed by a calibrated thermometer) then the Temperature Offset can be adjusted from -9.9°C to +9.9°C
A Temperature Offset will offset the displayed temperature by the entered amount.
Thus, if the displayed temperature is 2°C but the actual internal temperature is 4°C, and offset of +2°C is required.
Note: In most cases this is not necessary to be adjusted. There will be minor temperature differences in the kegerator due to airflow etc. This may also be pre-adjusted in the factory.
Enter and navigate to ot using theor buttons
The Probe Calibration Offset can be adjusted from -9.9°C to +9.9°C. This may be at a value other than 0°C due to factory calibration.
Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Probe Calibration Offset
Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter
Enter and navigate to CF using theor buttons
Use theor buttons to cycle the display between Cesius (°C) and Fahrenheit (°F)
Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter
The Grand Deluxe 3 range are commercial units. As such, they have very powerful compressors. It is important that an adequate Defrost Cycle is programmed in to ensure that ice does not build up on the cooling fins. Failure to program an adequate defrost cycle can reduce the performance of the unit and may also void warranty.
Enter and navigate to id using theor buttons
The Defrost Interval can be adjusted from 0-99 hours. The default is 6
Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Defrost Interval
Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter
Enter and navigate to Nd using theor buttons
The Maximum defrost length can be adjusted from 0-99 minutes. The default is 20
Use theor buttons to change the value of the parameter to the desired Defrost length
Press the Button to store the new parameter. This will also move to the next parameter



On
Compressor enabled
Flashing
Compressor Delay active
On
Defrost in progress
On
Fan enabled
Flashing
Fan on delay after Defrost
OR
On
Current Temperature
OR
Flashing
Programming Mode Active

KegLand Undercover / Build In / Semi-Integrated Kegerator | Troubleshooting
Pouring too quickly
Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
CO2 pressure may be too high. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this for more info
Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Refer to to fix over-carbonated beer
Pouring too slowly
CO2 pressure may be too low. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this for more info
Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved.
Beer is too foamy/frothy
Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Typically most beers in a short draw system are served at approx. 10-12psi. Refer to to fix over-carbonated beer
Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can partially freeze the beer in the line. This creates turbulence in the line which can cause excess foam. Ensure the beer lines are not in contact with the cold plate.
Beer may be too warm. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator or leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled
Beer does not have enough head
Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved. Please refer to this for more info
Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
Beer may be too cold.
(Homebrew) Beer may not have much head. Not all beer styles produce a lot of head - this may be due to the grist of the particular brew or possibly a brewing technique affected the head
No beer comes out of tap
Lines or connections may be blocked. If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the PRV. Remove the liquid post with a socket or spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post
The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can freeze the beer in the line and partially or completely block the flow. Ensure the lines do not come into contact with the cold plate
CO2 cylinder may be empty. If there is insufficient CO2 to pressurise the head space of the keg then beer will not pour. Replace or refill the CO2 cylinder if empty
Keg may be frozen. If the Set Point is too low or there is an issue with the temp probe calibration, the keg(s) may freeze. Check and correct the and Set Point of the kegerator
Beer is too warm
Kegerator may not be cold enough. Check and of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour
Keg may not be cold enough. Leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled. This can take up to 24 hours (for example) with a room temperature 50L keg
Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform to ensure the correct temperature is maintained
Font not cool enough. Direct the Font Fan tubing to the top of the font. Cut the Font Fan tubing to the correct length. Cut the tubing at a 45° angle to ensure it remains unobstructed. Ensure the fan is turned on
CO2 Cylinder is empty
Cylinder may be used up. It takes approx 6g of CO2 to dispense 1L of beer at normal serving pressure. Thus, a 2.6kg CO2 cylinder will dispense approx. 8 x 50L kegs. More CO2 will be used if also carbonating the kegs. Refill the CO2 cylinder when empty
Possible Gas Leak. Perform an to check for potential CO2 leaks
Kegerator not cooling to set point temperature
Set Point may be too high. Check and of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour
Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
Front vents may be covered. The UnderCover kegerator is designed to be built into a typical 600mm cabinet and thus does not require celarance at the sides or rear. The front vents require ventilation. Ensure that these are not covered or cooling performance and warranty may be affected
Door left open/not closed properly. If the door is not properly closed or misaligned the kegerator may not cool adequately. Ensure the door is closed and aligned properly
Not calibrated properly. If the kegerator is not cooling adequately but the compressor is cycling at the Set Point temperature the kegerator may require .
Hot environment. If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system
Kegerator is too cold
Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform to ensure the correct temperature is maintained
Set Point temperature may be incorrect. . For best results set this to 2°C. Setting too low a temperature may cause freezing or performance issues
How to adjust Set Point Temperature
Press the Up or Down buttons to select the desired et Point. Press the SET button to save the Set Point
Excessive noise from fan
Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up there is likely also ice in the fan housing. The fan lades will hit this when spinning causing excessive noise. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
Loose wiring. It is possible for the lead to the fan to become slightly loose and contact the blades causing noise. Remove the fan housing and reposition the wire to prevent it from contacting the blades
Ice build up on cold plate
Moisture or humidity ingress. If the door is left open or the seals are damaged or dirty then ice can build up on the cold plate. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
EE Error
This is an electrical fault. This can be caused by a faulty Temperature Probe (Thermistor) or a loose connection or damaged or faulty connection. Try replacing the Temperature Probe. Inspect the board for loose or damaged connections
Water is leaking from kegerator
Melted ice build up. If there is too much water, moisture or humidity ingress in the kegerator, the ice build up can overwhelm the evaporator plate at the rear of the kegerator. Defrost the kegerator (if necessary) by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
4mm
1.5 metres – 2 metres
5mm
2 metres – 3 metres
6.35mm
3 metres – 4 metres
If your beer is foaming after checking CO2 pressure, beer line length and kegerator temperature, then possibly the beer is over-carbonated. If this is the gas, then the carbonation level of the beer in the keg will need to be reduced in order to get a good pour.
19L Cornelius Kegs have a PRV (Pressure Relief Valve) which makes releasing excess pressure quite easy. TO fix an over-carbonated 19L keg (or any homebrew keg with a PRV such as a 20L OXEBAR keg) follow these steps:
Disconnect the gas line to the keg
Pull the PRV to vent all headspace pressure
Wait a couple of hours and then repeat. DO not reconnect the gas line until the desired carbonation level has dropped
This process can be sped up if the keg is removed from the kegerator and allowed to come to room temperature - CO2 will come out of solution faster at room temperatures. You can also vent the PRV, then close the PRV and shake the keg for 30 seconds, then vent it again. This will help force CO2 out of solution. Please note that this can cause beer or foam to spray from the PRV when venting, so proceed with caution.
Commercial kegs such as 20L, 30L or 50L kegs which are connected to the beer and gas lines by a coupler do not have a PRV, so it is a bit trickier to vent excess carbonation.
If the beer is only slightly over carbonated, the easiest way to reduce carbonation is to turn off the CO2 cylinder valve and pour beer as normal. CO2 will come out of solution as the headspace pressure is purged. This will take a while however, depending on the level of over-carbonation.
To speed this up, remove the keg from the kegerator to allow it to come to room temperature. CO2 will come out of solution faster when the beer is warm.
This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles
Series X User Guide | Troubleshooting
Kegerators are not domestic fridges and thus will make noises that are quite different to a standard domestic fridge. A gurgling or similar noise is quite common, and not considered unusual. The kegerators use a highly efficient refrigerant gas which can sound like gurgling. This is often more noticeable when the fridge is empty or the kegerator is brand new. Any noises are often reduced once the kegerator is filled with kegs due to the large thermal mass of the kegs.
Refrigerant noise is often more noticeable in a new kegerator, as it can take time for the coolant to settle.
To avoid excessive refrigerant noise, it is vital to leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least 24 hours after transit.
In addition, if tipping the kegerator over (to install castors, for example) the kegerator must be tipped towards the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues.
Leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least one hour before switching on after installing castors or tipping the kegerator for any other reason.
If the fan is making excessive noise refer to
If your beer is foaming after checking CO2 pressure, beer line length and kegerator temperature, then possibly the beer is over-carbonated. If this is the gas, then the carbonation level of the beer in the keg will need to be reduced in order to get a good pour.
19L Cornelius Kegs have a PRV (Pressure Relief Valve) which makes releasing excess pressure quite easy. TO fix an over-carbonated 19L keg (or any homebrew keg with a PRV such as a ) follow these steps:
Disconnect the gas line to the keg
Pull the PRV to vent all headspace pressure
Wait a couple of hours and then repeat. DO not reconnect the gas line until the desired carbonation level has dropped
This process can be sped up if the keg is removed from the kegerator and allowed to come to room temperature - CO2 will come out of solution faster at room temperatures. You can also vent the PRV, then close the PRV and shake the keg for 30 seconds, then vent it again. This will help force CO2 out of solution. Please note that this can cause beer or foam to spray from the PRV when venting, so proceed with caution.
Commercial kegs such as 20L, 30L or 50L kegs which are connected to the beer and gas lines by a coupler do not have a PRV, so it is a bit trickier to vent excess carbonation.
If the beer is only slightly over carbonated, the easiest way to reduce carbonation is to turn off the CO2 cylinder valve and pour beer as normal. CO2 will come out of solution as the headspace pressure is purged. This will take a while however, depending on the level of over-carbonation.
To speed this up, remove the keg from the kegerator to allow it to come to room temperature. CO2 will come out of solution faster when the beer is warm.
This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles
Series 4 User Guide | Troubleshooting
Kegerators are not domestic fridges and thus will make noises that are quite different to a standard domestic fridge. A gurgling or similar noise is quite common, and not considered unusual. The kegerators use a highly efficient refrigerant gas which can sound like gurgling. This is often more noticeable when the fridge is empty or the kegerator is brand new. Any noises are often reduced once the kegerator is filled with kegs due to the large thermal mass of the kegs.
Refrigerant noise is often more noticeable in a new kegerator, as it can take time for the coolant to settle.
To avoid excessive refrigerant noise, it is vital to leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least 24 hours after transit.
In addition, if tipping the kegerator over (to install castors, for example) the kegerator must be tipped towards the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues.
Leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least one hour before switching on after installing castors or tipping the kegerator for any other reason.
If the fan is making excessive noise refer to
If your beer is foaming after checking CO2 pressure, beer line length and kegerator temperature, then possibly the beer is over-carbonated. If this is the gas, then the carbonation level of the beer in the keg will need to be reduced in order to get a good pour.
19L Cornelius Kegs have a PRV (Pressure Relief Valve) which makes releasing excess pressure quite easy. TO fix an over-carbonated 19L keg (or any homebrew keg with a PRV such as a ) follow these steps:
Disconnect the gas line to the keg
Pull the PRV to vent all headspace pressure
Wait a couple of hours and then repeat. DO not reconnect the gas line until the desired carbonation level has dropped
This process can be sped up if the keg is removed from the kegerator and allowed to come to room temperature - CO2 will come out of solution faster at room temperatures. You can also vent the PRV, then close the PRV and shake the keg for 30 seconds, then vent it again. This will help force CO2 out of solution. Please note that this can cause beer or foam to spray from the PRV when venting, so proceed with caution.
Commercial kegs such as 20L, 30L or 50L kegs which are connected to the beer and gas lines by a coupler do not have a PRV, so it is a bit trickier to vent excess carbonation.
If the beer is only slightly over carbonated, the easiest way to reduce carbonation is to turn off the CO2 cylinder valve and pour beer as normal. CO2 will come out of solution as the headspace pressure is purged. This will take a while however, depending on the level of over-carbonation.
To speed this up, remove the keg from the kegerator to allow it to come to room temperature. CO2 will come out of solution faster when the beer is warm.
This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles
Pouring too quickly
Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
CO2 pressure may be too high. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info
Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Refer to this guide to fix over-carbonated beer
Pouring too slowly
CO2 pressure may be too low. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info
Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved.
Beer is too foamy/frothy
Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Typically most beers in a short draw system are served at approx. 10-12psi. Refer to this guide to fix over-carbonated beer
Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can partially freeze the beer in the line. This creates turbulence in the line which can cause excess foam. Ensure the beer lines are not in contact with the cold plate.
Beer may be too warm. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator or leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled
Beer does not have enough head
Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info
Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
Beer may be too cold. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator
(Homebrew) Beer may not have much head. Not all beer styles produce a lot of head - this may be due to the grist of the particular brew or possibly a brewing technique affected the head
No beer comes out of tap
Lines or connections may be blocked. If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the PRV. Remove the liquid post with a socket or spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post
The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can freeze the beer in the line and partially or completely block the flow. Ensure the lines do not come into contact with the cold plate
CO2 cylinder may be empty. If there is insufficient CO2 to pressurise the head space of the keg then beer will not pour. Replace or refill the CO2 cylinder if empty
Keg may be frozen. If the Set Point is too low or there is an issue with the temp probe calibration, the keg(s) may freeze. Check and correct the calibration and Set Point of the kegerator
Beer is too warm
Kegerator may not be cold enough. Check and adjust the Set Point of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour
Keg may not be cold enough. Leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled. This can take up to 24 hours (for example) with a room temperature 50L keg
Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform Offset Calibration to ensure the correct temperature is maintained
Font not cool enough. Direct the Font Fan tubing to the top of the font. Cut the Font Fan tubing to the correct length. Cut the tubing at a 45° angle to ensure it remains unobstructed. Ensure the fan is turned on
CO2 Cylinder is empty
Cylinder may be used up. It takes approx 6g of CO2 to dispense 1L of beer at normal serving pressure. Thus, a 2.6kg CO2 cylinder will dispense approx. 8 x 50L kegs. More CO2 will be used if also carbonating the kegs. Refill the CO2 cylinder when empty
Possible Gas Leak. Perform an Isolation Test to check for potential CO2 leaks
Kegerator not cooling to set point temperature
Insufficient clearance. A minimum of 100mm clearance is required on each side of the kegerator to ensure adequate heat dissipation for the condensers. Move the kegerator into open space to improve cooling efficiency
Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
Door left open/not closed properly. If the door is not properly closed or misaligned the kegerator may not cool adequately. Ensure the door is closed and aligned properly
Not calibrated properly. If the kegerator is not cooling adequately but the compressor is cycling at the Set Point temperature the kegerator may require Calibration.
Hot environment. If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system
Kegerator is too cold
Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform Offset Calibration to ensure the correct temperature is maintained
Set Point temperature may be incorrect. Check the Set Point temperature. For best results set this to 2°C. Setting too low a temperature may cause freezing or performance issues
Sides of kegerator are extremely warm
This is normal. The heat generated during refrigerant cooling is radiated from the left and right hand side of the kegerator. During normal operation these can get quite warm/hot. This is typically more apparent when the kegerator is cooling from ambient (so the compressor will be working harder and for longer). NOTE: It is vital that this unit has a minimum of 100mm clearance on each side for adequate cooling performance
Cannot adjust Set Point Temperature
Child Lock engaged. These have a built in Child Lock. To adjust the Set Point temperature, press and hold the Warmer button for 5 seconds until the display flashes (the displayed number is the current Set Point)
Excessive noise from fan
Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up there is likely also ice in the fan housing. The fan lades will hit this when spinning causing excessive noise. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
Black substance under cold plate
This is excess insulation. This is not uncommon in new kegerators after use. Excess foam insulation may drip from behind the cold plate. This is normal and nothing to worry about - simply clean with a damp microfibre cloth.
Loose wiring. It is possible for the lead to the fan to become slightly loose and contact the blades causing noise. Remove the fan housing and reposition the wire to prevent it from contacting the blades
No castor wheel screws
These are pre-installed. The castor wheel screws are installed in the underneath of the kegerator and simply need to be unscrewed with a 5/16" socket or wrench, or Philips driver
Ice build up on cold plate
Moisture or humidity ingress. If the door is left open or the seals are damaged or dirty then ice can build up on the cold plate. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
EE Error
This is an electrical fault. This can be caused by a faulty Temperature Probe (Thermistor) or a loose connection or damaged or faulty connection. Try replacing the Temperature Probe. Inspect the board for loose or damaged connections
Front display flashing
Board Failure. This can indicate a failure of the front LCD Temperature Control board or the Main Circuit Board. Both boards are designed for easy replacement
No power to kegerator
The circuit may have tripped. Check that the beaker has not tripped. If it has, remove all other appliances form the circuit, reset the breaker and try again
Board failure. This can indicate a failure of the front LCD Temperature Control board or the Main Circuit Board. Both boards are designed for easy replacement
Water is leaking from kegerator
Melted ice build up. If there is too much water, moisture or humidity ingress in the kegerator, the ice build up can overwhelm the evaporator plate at the rear of the kegerator. Defrost the kegerator (if necessary) by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
4mm
1.5 metres – 2 metres
5mm
2 metres – 3 metres
6.35mm
3 metres – 4 metres

Pouring too quickly
Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
CO2 pressure may be too high. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info
Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Refer to this guide to fix over-carbonated beer
Pouring too slowly
CO2 pressure may be too low. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info
Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved.
Beer is too foamy/frothy
Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Typically most beers in a short draw system are served at approx. 10-12psi. Refer to this guide to fix over-carbonated beer
Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can partially freeze the beer in the line. This creates turbulence in the line which can cause excess foam. Ensure the beer lines are not in contact with the cold plate.
Beer may be too warm. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator or leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled
Beer does not have enough head
Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info
Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
Beer may be too cold. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator
(Homebrew) Beer may not have much head. Not all beer styles produce a lot of head - this may be due to the grist of the particular brew or possibly a brewing technique affected the head
No beer comes out of tap
Lines or connections may be blocked. If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the PRV. Remove the liquid post with a socket or spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post
The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can freeze the beer in the line and partially or completely block the flow. Ensure the lines do not come into contact with the cold plate
CO2 cylinder may be empty. If there is insufficient CO2 to pressurise the head space of the keg then beer will not pour. Replace or refill the CO2 cylinder if empty
Keg may be frozen. If the Set Point is too low or there is an issue with the temp probe calibration, the keg(s) may freeze. Check and correct the calibration and Set Point of the kegerator
Beer is too warm
Kegerator may not be cold enough. Check and adjust the Set Point of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour
Keg may not be cold enough. Leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled. This can take up to 24 hours (for example) with a room temperature 50L keg
Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform Offset Calibration to ensure the correct temperature is maintained
Font not cool enough. Direct the Font Fan tubing to the top of the font. Cut the Font Fan tubing to the correct length. Cut the tubing at a 45° angle to ensure it remains unobstructed. Ensure the fan is turned on
CO2 Cylinder is empty
Cylinder may be used up. It takes approx 6g of CO2 to dispense 1L of beer at normal serving pressure. Thus, a 2.6kg CO2 cylinder will dispense approx. 8 x 50L kegs. More CO2 will be used if also carbonating the kegs. Refill the CO2 cylinder when empty
Possible Gas Leak. Perform an Isolation Test to check for potential CO2 leaks
Kegerator not cooling to set point temperature
Insufficient clearance. A minimum of 100mm clearance is required on each side of the kegerator to ensure adequate heat dissipation for the condensers. Move the kegerator into open space to improve cooling efficiency
Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
Door left open/not closed properly. If the door is not properly closed or misaligned the kegerator may not cool adequately. Ensure the door is closed and aligned properly
Not calibrated properly. If the kegerator is not cooling adequately but the compressor is cycling at the Set Point temperature the kegerator may require Calibration.
Hot environment. If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system
Kegerator is too cold
Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform Offset Calibration to ensure the correct temperature is maintained
Set Point temperature may be incorrect. Check the Set Point temperature. For best results set this to 2°C. Setting too low a temperature may cause freezing or performance issues
Sides of kegerator are extremely warm
This is normal. The heat generated during refrigerant cooling is radiated from the left and right hand side of the kegerator. During normal operation these can get quite warm/hot. This is typically more apparent when the kegerator is cooling from ambient (so the compressor will be working harder and for longer). NOTE: It is vital that this unit has a minimum of 100mm clearance on each side for adequate cooling performance
Cannot adjust Set Point Temperature
Child Lock engaged. These have a built in Child Lock. To adjust the Set Point temperature, press and hold the Warmer button for 5 seconds until the display flashes (the displayed number is the current Set Point)
Excessive noise from fan
Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up there is likely also ice in the fan housing. The fan lades will hit this when spinning causing excessive noise. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
Black substance under cold plate
This is excess insulation. This is not uncommon in new kegerators after use. Excess foam insulation may drip from behind the cold plate. This is normal and nothing to worry about - simply clean with a damp microfibre cloth.
Loose wiring. It is possible for the lead to the fan to become slightly loose and contact the blades causing noise. Remove the fan housing and reposition the wire to prevent it from contacting the blades
No castor wheel screws
These are pre-installed. The castor wheel screws are installed in the underneath of the kegerator and simply need to be unscrewed with a 5/16" socket or wrench, or Philips driver
Ice build up on cold plate
Moisture or humidity ingress. If the door is left open or the seals are damaged or dirty then ice can build up on the cold plate. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
EE Error
This is an electrical fault. This can be caused by a faulty Temperature Probe (Thermistor) or a loose connection or damaged or faulty connection. Try replacing the Temperature Probe. Inspect the board for loose or damaged connections
Front display flashing
Board Failure. This can indicate a failure of the front LCD Temperature Control board or the Main Circuit Board. Both boards are designed for easy replacement
No power to kegerator
The circuit may have tripped. Check that the beaker has not tripped. If it has, remove all other appliances form the circuit, reset the breaker and try again
Board failure. This can indicate a failure of the front LCD Temperature Control board or the Main Circuit Board. Both boards are designed for easy replacement
Water is leaking from kegerator
Melted ice build up. If there is too much water, moisture or humidity ingress in the kegerator, the ice build up can overwhelm the evaporator plate at the rear of the kegerator. Defrost the kegerator (if necessary) by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
4mm
1.5 metres – 2 metres
5mm
2 metres – 3 metres
6.35mm
3 metres – 4 metres


Series X Plus User Guide | Troubleshooting
Pouring too quickly
Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
CO2 pressure may be too high. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this for more info
Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Refer to to fix over-carbonated beer
Pouring too slowly
CO2 pressure may be too low. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this for more info
Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved.
Beer is too foamy/frothy
Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Typically most beers in a short draw system are served at approx. 10-12psi. Refer to to fix over-carbonated beer
Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can partially freeze the beer in the line. This creates turbulence in the line which can cause excess foam. Ensure the beer lines are not in contact with the cold plate.
Beer may be too warm. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator or leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled
Beer does not have enough head
Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved. Please refer to this for more info
Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
Beer may be too cold.
(Homebrew) Beer may not have much head. Not all beer styles produce a lot of head - this may be due to the grist of the particular brew or possibly a brewing technique affected the head
No beer comes out of tap
Lines or connections may be blocked. If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the PRV. Remove the liquid post with a socket or spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post
The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can freeze the beer in the line and partially or completely block the flow. Ensure the lines do not come into contact with the cold plate
CO2 cylinder may be empty. If there is insufficient CO2 to pressurise the head space of the keg then beer will not pour. Replace or refill the CO2 cylinder if empty
Keg may be frozen. If the Set Point is too low or there is an issue with the temp probe calibration, the keg(s) may freeze. Check and correct the and Set Point of the kegerator
Beer is too warm
Kegerator may not be cold enough. Check and of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour
Keg may not be cold enough. Leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled. This can take up to 24 hours (for example) with a room temperature 50L keg
Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform to ensure the correct temperature is maintained
Font not cool enough. Direct the Font Fan tubing to the top of the font. Cut the Font Fan tubing to the correct length. Cut the tubing at a 45° angle to ensure it remains unobstructed. Ensure the fan is turned on
CO2 Cylinder is empty
Cylinder may be used up. It takes approx 6g of CO2 to dispense 1L of beer at normal serving pressure. Thus, a 2.6kg CO2 cylinder will dispense approx. 8 x 50L kegs. More CO2 will be used if also carbonating the kegs. Refill the CO2 cylinder when empty
Possible Gas Leak. Perform an to check for potential CO2 leaks
Kegerator not cooling to set point temperature
Insufficient clearance. A minimum of 100mm clearance is required on each side of the kegerator to ensure adequate heat dissipation for the condensers. Move the kegerator into open space to improve cooling efficiency
Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
Door left open/not closed properly. If the door is not properly closed or misaligned the kegerator may not cool adequately. Ensure the door is closed and aligned properly
Not calibrated properly. If the kegerator is not cooling adequately but the compressor is cycling at the Set Point temperature the kegerator may require .
Hot environment. If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system
Kegerator is too cold
Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform to ensure the correct temperature is maintained
Set Point temperature may be incorrect. . For best results set this to 2°C. Setting too low a temperature may cause freezing or performance issues
Sides of kegerator are extremely warm
This is normal. The heat generated during refrigerant cooling is radiated from the left and right hand side of the kegerator. During normal operation these can get quite warm/hot. This is typically more apparent when the kegerator is cooling from ambient (so the compressor will be working harder and for longer). NOTE: It is vital that this unit has a minimum of 100mm clearance on each side for adequate cooling performance
Cannot adjust Set Point Temperature
Child Lock engaged. These have a built in Child Lock. , press and hold the Warmer button for 5 seconds until the display flashes (the displayed number is the current Set Point)
Excessive noise from fan
Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up there is likely also ice in the fan housing. The fan lades will hit this when spinning causing excessive noise. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
Black substance under cold plate
This is excess insulation. This is not uncommon in new kegerators after use. Excess foam insulation may drip from behind the cold plate. This is normal and nothing to worry about - simply clean with a damp microfibre cloth.
Loose wiring. It is possible for the lead to the fan to become slightly loose and contact the blades causing noise. Remove the fan housing and reposition the wire to prevent it from contacting the blades
No castor wheel screws
These are pre-installed. The castor wheel screws are installed in the underneath of the kegerator and simply need to be unscrewed with a 5/16" socket or wrench, or Philips driver
Ice build up on cold plate
Moisture or humidity ingress. If the door is left open or the seals are damaged or dirty then ice can build up on the cold plate. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
EE Error
This is an electrical fault. This can be caused by a faulty Temperature Probe (Thermistor) or a loose connection or damaged or faulty connection. Try replacing the Temperature Probe. Inspect the board for loose or damaged connections
Front display flashing
Board Failure. This can indicate a failure of the front or the . Both boards are designed for easy replacement
No power to kegerator
The circuit may have tripped. Check that the beaker has not tripped. If it has, remove all other appliances form the circuit, reset the breaker and try again
Board failure. This can indicate a failure of the front or the . Both boards are designed for easy replacement
Water is leaking from kegerator
Melted ice build up. If there is too much water, moisture or humidity ingress in the kegerator, the ice build up can overwhelm the evaporator plate at the rear of the kegerator. Defrost the kegerator (if necessary) by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
Kegerators are not domestic fridges and thus will make noises that are quite different to a standard domestic fridge. A gurgling or similar noise is quite common, and not considered unusual. The kegerators use a highly efficient refrigerant gas which can sound like gurgling. This is often more noticeable when the fridge is empty or the kegerator is brand new. Any noises are often reduced once the kegerator is filled with kegs due to the large thermal mass of the kegs.
Refrigerant noise is often more noticeable in a new kegerator, as it can take time for the coolant to settle.
To avoid excessive refrigerant noise, it is vital to leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least 24 hours after transit.
In addition, if tipping the kegerator over (to install castors, for example) the kegerator must be tipped towards the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues.
Leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least one hour before switching on after installing castors or tipping the kegerator for any other reason.
If the fan is making excessive noise refer to General Troubleshooting
4mm
1.5 metres – 2 metres
5mm
2 metres – 3 metres
6.35mm
3 metres – 4 metres
If your beer is foaming after checking CO2 pressure, beer line length and kegerator temperature, then possibly the beer is over-carbonated. If this is the gas, then the carbonation level of the beer in the keg will need to be reduced in order to get a good pour.
19L Cornelius Kegs have a PRV (Pressure Relief Valve) which makes releasing excess pressure quite easy. TO fix an over-carbonated 19L keg (or any homebrew keg with a PRV such as a 20L OXEBAR keg) follow these steps:
Disconnect the gas line to the keg
Pull the PRV to vent all headspace pressure
Wait a couple of hours and then repeat. DO not reconnect the gas line until the desired carbonation level has dropped
This process can be sped up if the keg is removed from the kegerator and allowed to come to room temperature - CO2 will come out of solution faster at room temperatures. You can also vent the PRV, then close the PRV and shake the keg for 30 seconds, then vent it again. This will help force CO2 out of solution. Please note that this can cause beer or foam to spray from the PRV when venting, so proceed with caution.
Commercial kegs such as 20L, 30L or 50L kegs which are connected to the beer and gas lines by a coupler do not have a PRV, so it is a bit trickier to vent excess carbonation.
If the beer is only slightly over carbonated, the easiest way to reduce carbonation is to turn off the CO2 cylinder valve and pour beer as normal. CO2 will come out of solution as the headspace pressure is purged. This will take a while however, depending on the level of over-carbonation.
To speed this up, remove the keg from the kegerator to allow it to come to room temperature. CO2 will come out of solution faster when the beer is warm.
This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the regulator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles

Series X Plus User Guide | Commercial Kegs & Couplers
Commercial kegs primarily come in a range of sizes; 20L, 30L and 50L. 50L kegs are the most common size. Commercial kegs come in three main styles: A-type, D-type and S-type. These three types of commercial kegs can be distinguished by the shape of their spear (shown below).
In Australia A-type and D-type kegs are the most common. You will need to buy the specific keg coupler to fit the keg type, make sure that prior to buying a kegerator you know which type of keg you will be using and which keg coupler is required to dispense from this keg.
As a general rule, CUB and related breweries use D-Type Couplers, all other breweries use A-Type Couplers. S-Type Couplers are typically only used for fully imported beers.
The following diagram shows the different ypes of spear available:
Once you have the correct coupler to suit your keg it will need to be assembled and connected to the beer and gas line.
On a keg coupler there is an inlet for gas and an outlet for liquid. The gas inlet is positioned on a 45-degree angle and the liquid outlet is positioned vertically. It is important to connect the gas line and beer line to the correct inlet and outlet.
Inside the KegLand coupler box you will find two types of one-way check valves: a gas duck bill valve and a liquid torpedo check piece.
The duck bill valve is used for the gas inlet and the torpedo check piece or non-return ball is used for the liquid outlet. In a homebrew setting it may only be necessary to use a check valve in the gas inlet to prevent liquid flowing back in to the regulator.
To install the gas duck bill valve, remove the black EPDM washer from inside the 5/8” duotight fitting on the gas inlet and then insert the gas duck bill valve into the opening (as shown below). Then screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler.
To install the liquid torpedo check piece, remove the 5/8” duotight fitting keeping the black EPDM washer in place, then insert the ball and cage (in the order shown below) and then finally screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler. NOTE: The closed part of the cage must be at the top to hold the ball in place, otherwise this can block the beer from flowing.
Prior to attaching the keg coupler onto the keg make sure that a gas line is connected to the gas inlet and this gas line is connected to a regulator and a beer line is connected to the liquid outlet and this beer line is connected to a tap. Attaching the keg to the keg coupler is usually the last step of the kegerator setup.
Slide the keg coupler over the groove on the top of the keg then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg. NOTE: To fit a 50L keg with an A-type keg coupler into a kegerator or if your keg is a DIN style keg (tall skinny style) you will need to use a KL00390 Low Profile Elbow Bend
Push the coupler into the opening of the spear and then rotate firmly clockwise to attach the coupler to the spear. Then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg.
More detailed instructions on how to assemble and operate a keg coupler can be seen in this video:
Before connecting EVABarrier ito duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689 Tube Cutter
If the EVABarrier has been used previousLY, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.
Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.
Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.
NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue
To remove EVABarrier froma duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.
While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.
Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.
KegLand Commercial Couplers are supplied with duotight fittings that make connecting EVABarrier gas and beer line quite easy.
However, if you plan on switching couplers or wish to use an alternative connection method that allows a bit more customisation, we recommend replacing the duotight fittings with Ball Lock Posts. When adding Ball Lock Posts to a coupler setup, it is recommended to also add a KL00390 Low Profile Elbow Bend which will make it easier to fit a 50L keg.
You will also need a KL00840 Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Liquid and a KL00833 Cornelius Type Ball Lock Post 5/8 Gas which will replace the duotight fittings on the coupler and allow you to use Ball Lock Disconnects on the beer and gas line instead





