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KL00093 Series 4 User Guide | User Manual
The KegLand Series 4 is a super budget friendly kegerator designed primarily for single tap setups with a 50L commercial keg. It can also hold up to 3 x 19L Cornelius Kegs.
Climate Class: T (Tropical)
Refrigerant: R600a
Refrigerant Amount: 40g
Rated Current: 0.80A
Power: 85 Watts
Capacity: 163L
Voltage: 220-240V
Hz: 50-60Hz
19L Ball Lock Kegs - Up to 3 9.5L Ball Lock Kegs - Up to 3 20L and 30L All Stainless Commercial Kegs - up to 2 x 20L kegs or 1 x 20L keg and 1 x 30L keg 50L Keg - 1
Please Note: Heavy Duty Castor Wheels are not compatible with the Series 4 Kegerator Base Fridge with Regulator. Check out the Kegerator for a unit which can be optionally installed with Heavy Duty Castor wheels.
600mm wide
640mm deep
840mm high
890mm high with castors (fridge component only, not including font, guard rail or drip tray)
Series 4 User Guide | Font Kit Assembly
KegLand Kegerators can be configured with different font and tap options.
Depending on the kegerator, you can have from 1 - 8 taps, or possibly more with the Grand Deluxe range.
Fonts and taps can also have different configurations - you may chose standard stainless NukaTaps, the black Stealth Bomber NukaTaps or possibly you need Flow Control NukaTaps (if serving highly carbonated beverages, for example)
Fonts can be a standard tower configuration, a tee bar or a super slim tee bar type.
All KegLand Font Kits (as opposed to Font Only) include beer and gas line, shanks and duotight connectors (where necessary), standard black tap handles for NukaTaps and all required beer and gas line, as well as tee pieces to split the gas line as needed. A 7 in 1 tool for easy font and shank assembly is also required. The exact inclusions depend on the type of font and number of taps - please refer to the product page for the font kit for details.
Please refer to the guide below for the selected font kit assembly
Series 4 User Guide | Troubleshooting
Pouring too quickly
Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
CO2 pressure may be too high. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this for more info
Kegerators are not domestic fridges and thus will make noises that are quite different to a standard domestic fridge. A gurgling or similar noise is quite common, and not considered unusual. The kegerators use a highly efficient refrigerant gas which can sound like gurgling. This is often more noticeable when the fridge is empty or the kegerator is brand new. Any noises are often reduced once the kegerator is filled with kegs due to the large thermal mass of the kegs.
Refrigerant noise is often more noticeable in a new kegerator, as it can take time for the coolant to settle.
To avoid excessive refrigerant noise, it is vital to leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least 24 hours after transit.
In addition, if tipping the kegerator over (to install castors, for example) the kegerator must be tipped towards the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues.
Leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least one hour before switching on after installing castors or tipping the kegerator for any other reason.
If the fan is making excessive noise refer to
If your beer is foaming after checking CO2 pressure, beer line length and kegerator temperature, then possibly the beer is over-carbonated. If this is the gas, then the carbonation level of the beer in the keg will need to be reduced in order to get a good pour.
19L Cornelius Kegs have a PRV (Pressure Relief Valve) which makes releasing excess pressure quite easy. TO fix an over-carbonated 19L keg (or any homebrew keg with a PRV such as a ) follow these steps:
Disconnect the gas line to the keg
Pull the PRV to vent all headspace pressure
Wait a couple of hours and then repeat. DO not reconnect the gas line until the desired carbonation level has dropped
This process can be sped up if the keg is removed from the kegerator and allowed to come to room temperature - CO2 will come out of solution faster at room temperatures. You can also vent the PRV, then close the PRV and shake the keg for 30 seconds, then vent it again. This will help force CO2 out of solution. Please note that this can cause beer or foam to spray from the PRV when venting, so proceed with caution.
Commercial kegs such as 20L, 30L or 50L kegs which are connected to the beer and gas lines by a coupler do not have a PRV, so it is a bit trickier to vent excess carbonation.
If the beer is only slightly over carbonated, the easiest way to reduce carbonation is to turn off the CO2 cylinder valve and pour beer as normal. CO2 will come out of solution as the headspace pressure is purged. This will take a while however, depending on the level of over-carbonation.
To speed this up, remove the keg from the kegerator to allow it to come to room temperature. CO2 will come out of solution faster when the beer is warm.
This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles
Not calibrated properly. If the kegerator is not cooling adequately but the compressor is cycling at the Set Point temperature the kegerator may require .
Hot environment. If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system
Kegerator is too cold
Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform to ensure the correct temperature is maintained
Set Point temperature may be incorrect. . For best results set this to 2°C. Setting too low a temperature may cause freezing or performance issues
Black substance under cold plate
This is excess insulation. This is not uncommon in new kegerators after use. Excess foam insulation may drip from behind the cold plate. This is normal and nothing to worry about - simply clean with a damp microfibre cloth.
Loose wiring. It is possible for the lead to the fan to become slightly loose and contact the blades causing noise. Remove the fan housing and reposition the wire to prevent it from contacting the blades
No castor wheel screws
These are pre-installed. The castor wheel screws are installed in the underneath of the kegerator and simply need to be unscrewed with a 5/16" socket or wrench, or Philips driver
Ice build up on cold plate
Moisture or humidity ingress. If the door is left open or the seals are damaged or dirty then ice can build up on the cold plate. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
EE Error
This is an electrical fault. This can be caused by a faulty Temperature Probe (Thermistor) or a loose connection or damaged or faulty connection. Try replacing the Temperature Probe. Inspect the board for loose or damaged connections
Front display flashing
Board Failure. This can indicate a failure of the front or the . Both boards are designed for easy replacement
No power to kegerator
The circuit may have tripped. Check that the beaker has not tripped. If it has, remove all other appliances form the circuit, reset the breaker and try again
Board failure. This can indicate a failure of the front or the . Both boards are designed for easy replacement
Water is leaking from kegerator
Melted ice build up. If there is too much water, moisture or humidity ingress in the kegerator, the ice build up can overwhelm the evaporator plate at the rear of the kegerator. Defrost the kegerator (if necessary) by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Refer to this guide to fix over-carbonated beer
Pouring too slowly
CO2 pressure may be too low. Most short draw kegerator systems and beers are served at approx. 10-12psi. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info
Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved.
Beer is too foamy/frothy
Beer may be over-carbonated. The keg will need to be de-carbonated by reducing excess CO2 pressure. Typically most beers in a short draw system are served at approx. 10-12psi. Refer to this guide to fix over-carbonated beer
Beer Line may be too short. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can partially freeze the beer in the line. This creates turbulence in the line which can cause excess foam. Ensure the beer lines are not in contact with the cold plate.
Beer may be too warm. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator or leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled
Beer does not have enough head
Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved. Please refer to this Carbonation Chart for more info
Beer Line may be too long. Please refer to this chart for a guide to recommended lengths for beer line of various diameter
Beer may be too cold. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator
(Homebrew) Beer may not have much head. Not all beer styles produce a lot of head - this may be due to the grist of the particular brew or possibly a brewing technique affected the head
No beer comes out of tap
Lines or connections may be blocked. If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the PRV. Remove the liquid post with a socket or spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post
The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can freeze the beer in the line and partially or completely block the flow. Ensure the lines do not come into contact with the cold plate
CO2 cylinder may be empty. If there is insufficient CO2 to pressurise the head space of the keg then beer will not pour. Replace or refill the CO2 cylinder if empty
Keg may be frozen. If the Set Point is too low or there is an issue with the temp probe calibration, the keg(s) may freeze. Check and correct the calibration and Set Point of the kegerator
Beer is too warm
Kegerator may not be cold enough. Check and adjust the Set Point of the kegerator. 2°C is typically the correct temperature to achieve a good pour
Keg may not be cold enough. Leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled. This can take up to 24 hours (for example) with a room temperature 50L keg
Kegerator may need calibrating. Check the actual internal temperature of the kegerator. If this is much higher than the indicated temperature then perform Offset Calibration to ensure the correct temperature is maintained
Font not cool enough. Direct the Font Fan tubing to the top of the font. Cut the Font Fan tubing to the correct length. Cut the tubing at a 45° angle to ensure it remains unobstructed. Ensure the fan is turned on
CO2 Cylinder is empty
Cylinder may be used up. It takes approx 6g of CO2 to dispense 1L of beer at normal serving pressure. Thus, a 2.6kg CO2 cylinder will dispense approx. 8 x 50L kegs. More CO2 will be used if also carbonating the kegs. Refill the CO2 cylinder when empty
Possible Gas Leak. Perform an Isolation Test to check for potential CO2 leaks
Kegerator not cooling to set point temperature
Insufficient clearance. A minimum of 100mm clearance is required on each side of the kegerator to ensure adequate heat dissipation for the condensers. Move the kegerator into open space to improve cooling efficiency
Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
Door left open/not closed properly. If the door is not properly closed or misaligned the kegerator may not cool adequately. Ensure the door is closed and aligned properly
Sides of kegerator are extremely warm
This is normal. The heat generated during refrigerant cooling is radiated from the left and right hand side of the kegerator. During normal operation these can get quite warm/hot. This is typically more apparent when the kegerator is cooling from ambient (so the compressor will be working harder and for longer). NOTE: It is vital that this unit has a minimum of 100mm clearance on each side for adequate cooling performance
Cannot adjust Set Point Temperature
Child Lock engaged. These have a built in Child Lock. To adjust the Set Point temperature, press and hold the Warmer button for 5 seconds until the display flashes (the displayed number is the current Set Point)
Excessive noise from fan
Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up there is likely also ice in the fan housing. The fan lades will hit this when spinning causing excessive noise. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
4mm
1.5 metres – 2 metres
5mm
2 metres – 3 metres
6.35mm
3 metres – 4 metres
Series 4 User Guide | Homebrew/Cornelius Kegs & Disconnects
There are two different styles of Cornelius kegs: Ball Lock and Pin Lock. Pin Lock kegs are not really in common use now. Any Cornelius style kegs purchased from KegLand will have Ball Lock fittings.
Ball Lock fittings can be identified by the posts on the keg or tapping head and require the use of Ball Lock Disconnects:
There are several types of Ball Lock keg available, including standard stainless 19L and 9.5L Cornelius Kegs, stainless Mini Kegs and also OXEBAR kegs in 20L, 8L and 4L sizes. If using Mini Kegs or 4L or 8L OXEBAR Kegs you will also need a ball lock tapping head.
To carbonate and dispense from a homebrew style keg you will need to use disconnects. These come in two different categories which are specific for ball-lock or pin-lock kegs. Balllock kegs require ball-lock disconnects and pin-lock kegs require pin-lock disconnects
Each keg requires a and a . Due to the design of the posts on the keg a liquid disconnect can only be used on the black liquid (OUT) post and a gas disconnect can only be used on the grey gas (IN) post.
Before connecting EVABarrier to duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689
If the EVABarrier has been used previously, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.
Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.
Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.
To remove EVABarrier froma duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.
While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.
Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.
Series 4 User Guide | Preparation & Setup
Remove and check all items from inside the kegerator
Remove any protective film and tape from the kegerator
Inspect kegerator for any damage that may have incurred in transit including liquid or oil marks inside packaging. If any damage is noted contact your retailer
Make sure the kegerator is empty
Carefully lay the kegerator on its side on a soft surface such as carpet, cardboard or a towel. NOTE: Ensure the kegerator is tipped onto the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues
Unscrew the feet from the base of the kegerator
Remove the screws in the base of the kegerator in each corner. These are pre-installed screws that are used to mount the castor wheels. NOTE: These can be quite tight from the factory. A 5/16" socket or wrench will allow more leverage than a Philips driver if required
The two locking castor wheels should be installed towards the front of the kegerator
Position the kegerator back upright and leave for a minimum 1 hour before turning it on to allow the refrigerant gas to settle. If installing the castors shortly after receiving the kegerator, leave the kegerator upright for a minimum of 24 hours before turning it on
NOTE: The screw holes may be filled with foam and have a foil covering. If this is the case push and thread the screws through the foam or foil. The screw will then catch on the thread allowing it to be screwed in completely
Position the guard rail so the feet line up with the holes in the top of the kegerator
Push the feet of the railing firmly into the holes
Align the four holes in the bracket with the four studs on the back of the kegerator
Insert the studs into the holes and then push the bracket down firmly to secure it
Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise
Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder
Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder then tighten further with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench
Ensure the CO2 cylinder is off by turning the cylinder valve handle clockwise
Ensure the regulator dial is completely unscrewed and there is a nylon regulator washer between the type 30 nut and stem and the CO2 cylinder
Hand tighten the nut and stem onto the CO2 cylinder using the knurled grip. MK5 Regulators can be hand tightened due to the new spigot seal design that easily compresses
The MK4 regulator comes as standard with a
Thread the KL06880 duotight fitting onto the regulator by hand, then tighten gently with a 7 in 1 tool or a suitable wrench. NOTE: DO not over tighten as this may cause the duotight fitting to split
Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut
Push the line firmly into the KL06880 duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted up to the line as marked on the fitting (approx. 22mm)
The MK5 regulator comes as standard with an 8mm duotight ball valve and integrated check valve
Ensure the end of 8mm EVABarrier is free of burrs and is a clean, 90° cut
Push the line firmly into the duotight fitting, ensuring it is inserted fully (approx.22mm)
Ensure the ball valve is opened before using the MK5 Regulator
Unscrew one of the caps on the back of the Series X and feed the EVABarrier gas line through the hole
Please refer to the for a detailed guide on the different types of fonts
Please refer to the for assembly instructions for the different types of beer and gas connections
Please refer to the for details on getting the system balanced for a great pour
Series 4 User Guide | Comerrcial Kegs & Couplers
Commercial kegs primarily come in a range of sizes; 20L, 30L and 50L. 50L kegs are the most common size. Commercial kegs come in three main styles: A-type, D-type and S-type. These three types of commercial kegs can be distinguished by the shape of their spear (shown below).
In Australia A-type and D-type kegs are the most common. You will need to buy the specific keg coupler to fit the keg type, make sure that prior to buying a kegerator you know which type of keg you will be using and which keg coupler is required to dispense from this keg.
As a general rule, CUB and related breweries use D-Type Couplers, all other breweries use A-Type Couplers. S-Type Couplers are typically only used for fully imported beers.
The following diagram shows the different ypes of spear available:
Once you have the correct coupler to suit your keg it will need to be assembled and connected to the beer and gas line.
On a keg coupler there is an inlet for gas and an outlet for liquid. The gas inlet is positioned on a 45-degree angle and the liquid outlet is positioned vertically. It is important to connect the gas line and beer line to the correct inlet and outlet.
Inside the KegLand coupler box you will find two types of one-way check valves: a gas duck bill valve and a liquid torpedo check piece.
The duck bill valve is used for the gas inlet and the torpedo check piece or non-return ball is used for the liquid outlet. In a homebrew setting it may only be necessary to use a check valve in the gas inlet to prevent liquid flowing back in to the regulator.
To install the gas duck bill valve, remove the black EPDM washer from inside the 5/8” duotight fitting on the gas inlet and then insert the gas duck bill valve into the opening (as shown below). Then screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler.
To install the liquid torpedo check piece, remove the 5/8” duotight fitting keeping the black EPDM washer in place, then insert the ball and cage (in the order shown below) and then finally screw the duotight fitting back onto the coupler. NOTE: The closed part of the cage must be at the top to hold the ball in place, otherwise this can block the beer from flowing.
Prior to attaching the keg coupler onto the keg make sure that a gas line is connected to the gas inlet and this gas line is connected to a regulator and a beer line is connected to the liquid outlet and this beer line is connected to a tap. Attaching the keg to the keg coupler is usually the last step of the kegerator setup.
Slide the keg coupler over the groove on the top of the keg then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg. NOTE: To fit a 50L keg with an A-type keg coupler into a kegerator or if your keg is a DIN style keg (tall skinny style) you will need to use a KL00390
Push the coupler into the opening of the spear and then rotate firmly clockwise to attach the coupler to the spear. Then firmly depress the handle to tap the keg.
More detailed instructions on how to assemble and operate a keg coupler can be seen in this video:
Before connecting EVABarrier ito duotight push fittings, ensure that the EVABarrier is cut at a straight and clean right angle using a sharp utility knife or (ideally) a KL07689
If the EVABarrier has been used previousLY, it is a good idea to cut off 20mm or so as the end may be marred from the teeth in a duotight collet.
Gen 3 duotight fittings are marked with a depth indicator. You can hold the EVABarrier against the fitting up to the line and make a small mark to ensure you have fully inserted the EVABarrier into the duotight fitting. The EVABarrier must be inserted deeply enough that it is engaged by both internal o-rings - approximately 22mm.
Once inserted, pull on the EVABarrier to ensure it is secure. If it comes out easily please follow the above steps again to ensure a good, tight, secure fit.
NOTE: duotight collets are colour coded to represent the appropriate EVABarrier tubing diameter. 6.35mm collets are green, 8mm are black and 9.5mm are blue
To remove EVABarrier from a duotight fitting, push down on the collet of the duotight fitting. The correct sized notch in a 7 in 1 tool is ideal for this as the collet needs to be held down concentrically.
While holding the collet down, simultaneously pull the EVABarrier out of the fitting.
Once the hose is removed cut the burred end off with a tube cutter or Stanley knife to produce a clean straight cut, this aids with forming an airtight seal.
KegLand Commercial Couplers are supplied with duotight fittings that make connecting EVABarrier gas and beer line quite easy.
However, if you plan on switching couplers or wish to use an alternative connection method that allows a bit more customisation, we recommend replacing the duotight fittings with Ball Lock Posts. When adding Ball Lock Posts to a coupler setup, it is recommended to also add a KL00390 which will make it easier to fit a 50L keg.
You will also need a KL00840 and a KL00833 which will replace the duotight fittings on the coupler and allow you to use Ball Lock Disconnects on the beer and gas line instead
Series 4 User Guide | Quick Start Guide
If kegerator has been moved/delivered do not turn it on unless it has been standing upright for at least 24 hours. Failure to do this will void warranty and may damage the kegerator. Leave the kegerator upright for at least 24 hours before plugging in mains power after receiving and unboxing
Only tip kegerator onto right hand side (as seen from the front), when installing castors etc. Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues
CO2 gas can be dangerous. Make sure to always use CO2 in a well ventilated space
Never exceed 40psi in your keg system
Always flush chemicals from the beer line completely before tapping keg
Always check for gas leaks once the kegerator is set up
Ensure there is at least 100mm clearance on each side of the kegerator after installation. Failure to allow adequate clearance will impact cooling performance and void warranty
Please refer to this video for a detailed guide to setting up a kegerator.
This video is specific to a Series X.1 kegerator, but is worth watching as it has a lot of up to date information about duotight fittings etc.
For detailed, step by step instructions, read on!
Series 4 User Guide | Installation Diagrams
Series 4 User Guide | Operation
Cooler (Down) Button
Warmer (Up) Button
Temperature
Celsius/Fahrenheit Indicator
Fan Indicator
Celsius/Fahrenheit Button
Fan Button
To adjust the Set Point Temperature:
Press and hold the Up button for 5 seconds. The display will flash and show the current Set Point Temperature. This is a Child Safety Lock feature to prevent accidentally changing the Set Point Temperature.
Press the Up or Down buttons to modify and save the Set Point Temperature. When the display stops flashing the new Set Point Temperature will be saved.
NOTE: The Up or Down buttons must be pressed repeatedly to change the temperature. The temperature will not continue to change if the button is held down - this is a child lock feature.
To change the displayed temperature between Celsius and Fahrenheit press the °F/°C button. Press it again to revert to the previous units.
The fan is designed for continuous operation. This will help maintain a consistent temperature. In addition, directing the font fan conduit inside the font can assist with keeping the taps and beer lines cold, which helps to minimise 'first beer foam' issues. If desired the fan can be turned on and off manually using the Fan Button. When the fan is on, the fan icon will be displayed.
If there is a large variance between the displayed temperature (IE the temperature of the internal temperature probe and the actual internal temperature of the kegerator (as measured by a calibrated thermometer) then the Temperature Offset can be adjusted from -10°C to 10°C
A Temperature Offset will offset the displayed temperature by the entered amount.
Thus, if the displayed temperature is 2°C but the actual internal temperature is 4°C, an offset of +2°C is required.
Note: In most cases this is not necessary to be adjusted. There will be minor temperature differences in the kegerator due to airflow etc.
Press and hold the Up and Down buttons for approx 5 seconds - until the display flashes SC
Once the display flashes SC, release the Up or Down buttons and press the °F/°C button. This will display the current Offset Temperature (which should be 0°)
The exterior of the kegerator can be cleaned with a damp microfibre cloth and a mild spray cleaner. Stainless polish may be used on stainless surfaces (such as fonts etc). or solutions may also be used instead.
Monitor the evaporator plate (at the back of the kegerator on top of the compressor). In normal use this should not be filled with water as the heat generated by the compressor will evaporate normal levels of water. If there is excessive water in the evaporator plate or it is overflowing please refer to
The interior of the kegerator may be cleaned in the same manner. It is not uncommon for some mould to be present inside the kegerator due to the nature of use. If present, clean with a mild mould remover spray and a damp microfibre cloth. Be careful to not get mould spray on any fittings such as keg posts or disconnects.
Once the desired value is displayed it will be saved after the display stops flashing (approx. 5 seconds)
The display will revert to the current kegerator temperature. This will be different to the value displayed before the offset adjustment was made if the operation was performed correctly.
Series 4 User Guide | Balancing Lines & CO2 Pressure
To ensure you get a consistent pour with the correct amount of head it is important to ensure the length of beer is correlated with the internal diameter of the EVABarrier hose. The suggested length of beer line for each internal diameter is outlined below.
To get a great pour with good head the length of the beer line needs to be adjusted according to the internal diameter of the line and to the carbonation level of the liquid being dispensed. Broadly speaking, the smaller the internal diameter of the beer line the less line is required to get a good flow. For that reason, the standard line used for beer line in all KegLand Font Kits is KL06224 4mm ID x 8mm OD Double Wall EVABarrier
Please refer to this chart for a guide to appropriate beer line length for different diameter line:
KegLand Font Kits come with pre-cut lengths of beer and gas line. These are typically sized to allow at least 1.5m per length and thus do not need to be cut down in size.
If cutting your own lengths of beer line it is best to start at the upper end of the suggested range and cut the beer line down in size until the desired pour speed is achieved. The faster the pour, the more likely you will get too much head/foam in the glass and also a fast pour can 'knock' carbonation out of solution resulting in a beer with too much head but no carbonation!
Thus, for example, if starting with 4mm ID line start with a 2m length and cut down in 100mm lengths until the desired pour is achieved.
4mm ID line is often the best choice in a short draw (kegerator) setup as it means less overall length of beer line is required which means the kegerator will be less cluttered. It also reduces the amount of beer sitting in the lines between pours.
To see how much beer is in the line (approximately) please refer to this table:
The downside of 4mm ID beer line is that it is quite hard to fit over barbs. We highly recommend using duotight fittings instead as they are very easy to use and install. They can also be readily swapped out if required - for example, if you decide to change the number of taps and kegs in your setup. All KegLand kegerator kits come with duotight fittings as standard.
If you are not sure about temperature, carbonation levels and CO2 pressure for serving, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the regulator to 12psi is appropriate for most situations.
To produce the perfect pour, a number of variables need to be balanced. These include the beer line length, carbonation level of the beer and storage temperature of the keg.
The temperature of the beer in the keg correlates directly to the carbonation level. Thus, a beer at 4°C will have less carbonation than a beer at 2°C at the same CO2 pressure.
For most styles of beer, you should be aiming for a carbonation level of between 2.2-2.8 volumes of carbonation. 2.6 volumes of carbonation can be considered a good average level for most beers. If you are unsure of the carbonation level of the beer IE If it is a commercial keg then assume it is at 2.6 volumes of carbonation.
To achieve a specific carbonation level refer to this and match the temperature of the kegerator to the desired carbonation level. Typically kegerators would be set to maintain a temperature between 0-3°C. Typically, 2°C is the perfect temperature for most beer styles.
The pressure at which you dispense the beer should be slightly higher than the carbonation pressure (~10% higher).
For example, to carbonate to 2.6 volumes at 2°C you would carbonate the beer at approximately 11psi and then serve the beer at approximately 12psi.
The pressure at which you serve the beer should be determined as above - thus the carbonation level determines the serving level. Do not try to fix a fast or slow pour by adjusting the pressure. Too low a pressure will result in flat beer, and too high a pressure will cause over-carbonation.
If you think that you have over carbonated your beer you may need to release the Pressure in the keg and then set it to your desired pressure according to the carbonation chart above. Do not release pressure in the keg by pulling the PRV on the regulator as this can result in liquid being pulled into the regulator and potentially causing damage to the regulator.
If you wish to have beers of different carbonation levels in the kegerator then you can use a KL10870 to have two different serving pressures. Alternatively a KL15035 can be installed on the gas lines which allows individual control of each line.
This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles
2m
20ml
40ml
6mm
3m
28ml
84ml
4mm
1.5 metres – 2 metres
5mm
2 metres – 3 metres
6.35mm
3 metres – 4 metres
4mm
1.5m
12.5ml
19ml
5mm
Series 4 User Guide | Leak & Pressure Testing
Performing a CO2 leak test is important to ensure that your system will hold pressure and that there are no leaks in any connections in the system.
If there are any leaks this can result in the CO2 cylinder becoming empty in a short period.
Initial pressure testing can be performed in two different ways. If leaks are detected an Isolation Test can help determine the location of he leak.
Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised
Once pressurised, turn the valve handle on the CO2 cylinder clockwise until the valve is turned off
Wait for at least two hours then check the pressure reading on the right hand (low pressure) gauge of the regulator
If the pressure reading has not changed (so is still reading ~20psi) then there are no leaks in the system
If the pressure has dropped a noticeable amount then it is very likely there is a leak in the system. Use Method 2 - Detergent Bubble Test to locate the leak. Note: Even if this test is passed it is quite a good idea to perform this test in any case
Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution
Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 40-50psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to ensure the system is properly pressurised. Note: We use a higher pressure in order to make any leaks easier to detect. Ensure there is no beer in the keg as it may become over-carbonated
If any CO2 leaks are detected, if can be helpful to perform an Isolation Test to determine where the leak is in the system
Attach all disconnects to an empty keg. If there is liquid in the keg this will give a poor reading as CO2 will become absorbed into solution
Set the pressure on the CO2 regulator to 20psi. Wait for the empty keg to fill with CO2 to 20psi to ensure the system is properly pressurised
Series 4 User Guide | Different Keg Types
When setting up a kegerator system at home, it is important to understand the differences between the two main types of keg on the market.
The different kegs require different gas and beer line fittings inside the kegerator. Other components of the kegerator (taps, font etc) are interchangeable. The way in which the beer line and gas line is attached to the keg is the main point of difference.
We divide kegerators into two types: Commercial (Brewery Made) Kegerator setups and Homebrew Kegerator setups. Kegs in both types are available in multiple sizes.
It is possible to mix and match keg styles in the one kegerator, provided the kegs are small enough to fit. Simply use the correct connection (coupler or ball lock disconnects) on ach beer and gas line to allow this.
For example, you may wish to have a TALOS keg of craft beer on tap, as well as on demand soda water in a 19L keg. In that case, one beer/gas line would be terminated with an A Type Coupler, and the other would have a gas and a liquid ball lock disconnect.
Choose the type of connector used to see how to set each gas line up
Connections to check include:
• The connection between the CO2 cylinder and the regulator • All duotight connections including the 8mm x FFL duotight connected to the regulator, ball lock disconnects and keg coupler, the 6.5mm x 8mm duotight reducers connected to the short shanks and the 8mm duotight tee pieces • Around ball lock disconnects and keg couplers when they are connected to the keg • Around the lid of a Cornelius keg • Make sure to remove the ball lock disconnects from the posts of the ball lock keg and check the post itself for leaks
IMPORTANT: Do not spray any duotight fittings with StellarSan or phosphoric acid solution to perform a leak test.
Turn valve of CO2 cylinder fully off.
Fully unwind the (anti clockwise) the regulator knob
Remove Gas Disconnect from the keg
(If using) Remove Gas Disconnect from gas inlet of kegerator
(If possible) Weigh the CO2 cylinder
Wait at least 12 hours
After at least 12 hours, if there is a leak in the system we can determine roughly where the leak is after isolating
If the weight of the CO2 cylinder has gone down noticeably, the cylinder possibly has a leak
If the pressure on the regulator has gone down, the regulator, gas line or fittings may have a leak
Test the keg(s) by pulling the PRV. If no CO2 is released then the keg may have a leak.
Once the general location of the leak has been determined by isolation testing, perform a in order to locate the leak precisely.
NOTE: It is safe to submerge duotight fittings and EVABarrier in water when locating leaks. Regulators cannot be safely immersed
Series 4 User Guide | Single, Double & Triple Font Kit Assembly
