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FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Important Information
This instruction sheet contains vital information that is related to the safe usage and handling of the FermZilla Tri-Conical Unitank.
It is vital that you read this instruction sheet from front to back before using the product!
THIS IS FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY WHEN USING A PRESSURISABLE FERMENTAION VESSEL
Do not loosen the tri-clover clamps when the FermZilla is under pressure. Purge all pressure in the FermZilla and the collection container before loosening the tri-clover clamps
When not under pressure do not expose to liquids above 55°C (131°F). Only clean, wash or sanitise the fermenter with cold water
When under pressure do not expose to any temperatures above 35°C (95°F)
Keep the fermenter out of direct sun or heat. Do not expose to UV rays of any sort
If using a heat belt to warm the fermenter then only have the heat belt sitting below the liquid level. Do not use an unregulated heat source, only use heat sources which are plugged into a temperature controller
Under no circumstances apply more than 2.5bar (35psi) to the fermenter. Do not connect an unregulated pressure source. If you connect external pressure source ensure it has independent PRV pre-set to 35psi or below
A spunding valve set below 35psi must always be connected to the FermZilla when fermenting under pressure or connected to the recipient keg when performing a closed transfer. Recommended range for pressure fermenting is 10-12psi
Do not tamper with the pressure relief valve. Only use the red or yellow coloured pressure relief valve supplied by KegLand
If vigorous fermentation is experienced and krausen or wort has contacted the PRV, ensure the PRV is removed and cleaned before putting the FermZilla under pressure
If the fermenter is scratched, damaged or has been under any physical duress; do not use the fermenter under pressure without hydro-testing
If you use the fermenter under pressure hydro test the fermenter every 24 months to ensure it is safe to use
Only use chemical cleaners and sanitizers that are approved by Kegland. These include: KL05371 (effective for sanitising the exterior of the FermZilla) , KL05357 (mixed to the correct dilution), KL05494 (not to be left in the FermZilla for more than 30 minutes), KL07405 . Or contact for more information regarding other compatible chemical cleaning products
Always keep the butterfly valve open during fermentation. Only close the butterfly valve once fermentation has ceased and hydrometer readings are stable for 3 consecutive days
Open the butterfly valve and ensure the system (including the collection container) is depressurized prior to removing the collection container
Do not over tighten carbonation caps onto the threads of the lid or collection container. Doing so can result in the thread being stripped or cracked. We recommend using KL10788 Multi Gas Post Plastic Carbonation Cap (available in (gas) and (liquid)
Do not over tighten the stainless-steel handles onto the neck of the FermZilla
Avoid lifting the FermZilla while full. If filled with wort avoid moving the FermZilla to prevent sticky wort from preventing the PRV from operating
Always conduct a leak test prior to beginning fermentation
Lubricating the Butterfly valve gate and all O-rings will prolong the life of the unit. We recommend
When fermenting under pressure, a PRV alone is not sufficient. A must be used to ensure pressure dos not build beyond safe limits.
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions
KL25898 | KL25904 | KL47296 | KL47302 | FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | User Guide
Now with 3 Inch Tri-Clover ferrule moulded into the tank and a 600mL Collection Container with a 3 Inch Tri-clover connection. Tri Clover fittings are the gold standard for sanitary design and effortless removal. This unit was born from customer feedback we received on the Gen 2 Model. No more complicated dump valve designs here, just simplicity.
Brew with confidence in the new Tri-Clover FermZilla Range.
The FermZilla allows many of the benefits of much more expensive stainless conical fermenters but with the additional benefit of being able to see the fermentation process in action and also ferment at pressures up to 2.4bar. This is an incredible product at an extremely attractive price point in all the different sizes and models.
YES, it is by far the easiest Conical PET fermenter to disassemble and clean! Simply release all pressure inside the vessel and detatch the tri clover clamps. All parts come apart easily and can be cleaned and sanitised individually with no effort.
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Operation
The FermZIlla range (excluding the non pressure rated FermZilla Flat Bottom) are designed to be optimally used with CO2 pressure. They are not really designed for gravity only operation in the same manner as a fermenter with a tap.
However, there are some workarounds that can allow this, although it is not recommended.
If you intend to use FermZilla under pressure it is strongly advised to perform a leak test prior to commencing fermentation.
This will require access to an external pressure source such as a CO2 cylinder with a Type 30 MK4 regulator. To thoroughly pressure test the FermZilla it is best to perform a pressure decay leak test.
Assemble the FermZIlla according to the instructions
Pressurise the empty FermZilla to a minimum of 15psi (but not more than 35psi)
Turn the CO2 cylinder off and leave to sit for a few hours
Check the pressure in the FermZilla. If it has decreased substantially then there may be a leak that will need to be identified before using the FermZilla under pressure
A leak can occur from the Carbonation Caps, the lid, the butterfly valve assembly and/or the Collection Container assembly
To locate the leak you can pressurise the FermZilla and spray with soapy water to look for bubbles. Bubbles will identify the source of the leak. You can also fill a bucket with water and submerge both the Collection Container assembly and the lid of the FermZilla under water. Again, bubbles will identify exactly where the leak is.
Once the leak has been located, remove and inspect any fittings. If there is damage (such as a crack) then the fitting may need to be replaced. If a seal is damaged it may need to be replaced. If no damage is found then reassemble using food safe lube and retest.
Pressure Fermentation is a fantastic tool to have in your fermenting arsenal. In the commercial brewing world, most beers are fermented under pressure to some degree due to the size and shape of the tanks used. This means that the pressure at the bottom of the tank is quite significant even if no pressure has been applied to the tank.
Fermenting under pressure can have several positive benefits.
1: It can allow elevated temperatures with no off flavours. This in turn can lead to a faster and complete fermentation.
2: Fermenting under pressure can suppress esters and off flavours, leading to a cleaner beer in the glass.
3: Fermenting under pressure means that the CO2 produced in large quantities during fermentation can be dissolved back into solution - thus you can achieve complete carbonation y the time the beer is ready to keg.
NOTE: Not all beers styles are suited to pressure fermentation. Styles such as Belgian beers and Saisons rely on yeast expression and character and thus they are not really good candidates for pressure fermentation.
To ferment under pressure you will need either the Complete Pressure Brewing Kit:
Or you will need to purchase the following accessories for your FermZilla (NOTE: Required accessories can differ according to model. Check the product page or contact KegLand if unsure)
2 x KL10788 (we like to use for Gas, for Liquid for easy identification)
1 x KL17060
1 x KB03529
To transfer your finished beer you wll also need some spare transfer line and 2 x . If you do not have spare transfer line then the is ideal
For a comprehensive guide to Pressure Fermentation please check out this article:
To ferment under pressure simply replace the black plastic caps on the FermZilla lid with Carbonation Caps. Ensure the Silicon Dip Tube is cut to the correct length and connected to one of the caps using the barb.
Instead of using the airlock we will use a to control the pressure build up in the tank. Best practice is to not allow pressure build up for the first 24 hours after pitching yeast. This is because pressure can inhibit yeast growth.
For most fermentations, we recommend setting the Spunding Valve to allow pressure to build to 10-12psi. Under no circumstances should pressure be allowed to go to or higher than 35psi.
WARNING: If fermenting at high temperatures (above 35psi) do not also ferment under pressure. The combination of high temperature fermentation and pressure can cause failure.
WARNING: Ensure the butterfly valve is open during active fermentation, especially when fermenting under pressure. Failure to leave this open can cause unregulated pressure to build up in the Collection Container which can cause failure. The Butterfly Valve may be closed before filling the FermZilla with wort or after fermentation has finished and the gravity reading has been stable for three consecutive days.
To set the Spunding Valve two methods can be used.
Wind in the handle of the Spunding Valve (clockwise) and connect it to an empty, pressurised vessel with ball lock posts - a keg is ideal. Ensure the pressure in the keg is higher than the desired set pressure. Slowly unscrew the handle of the Spunding Valve until the desired pressure is reached. Once the Spunding Valve is just venting at the desired pressure it can be removed and put on the FermZilla
Once active fermentation is underway CO2 will be produced quite quickly. You can connect the Spunding Valve to the Gas Post of the FermZIlla and turn the handle clockwise. Pressure will build up over a few hours and thus you can check the FermZilla and valve every 15 minutes and adjust until the desired pressure is reached. NOTE: It is important to constantly monitor the FermZIlla when setting pressure manually in order to ensure there is no possibility of over pressurising the tank
When fermenting under pressure ensure that the FermZilla is depressurised prior to closing the Butterfly Valve, Removing the Collection Container or removing the FermZilla Lid
Once fermentation is finished, best practice is to the beer before transferring to your desired packaging.
To ensure that fermentation is complete before transferring, take a gravity reading across three consecutive days. If the gravity reading is stable and in the expected range we can be sure that fermentation is completed and the beer is ready!
As a pressure capable fermenter, the FermZilla range is the ideal fermenter for transferring into kegs. This can be easily done with no mess, fuss or risk of oxidation using a once the beer is finished.
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Identifying & Fixing Leaks
If you suspect that your FermZilla has a leak it is important to properly test this.
Leak testing is not typically viable when fermentation is in progress. It is also possible to mis-identify the FermZilla as having a leak due to factors such as CO2 dissolving into solution (during cold crash, for example) or other factors.
Unless the tank itself is cracked (in which case it will need to be replaced) then the All Rounder range can only leak from the lid or neck of the FermZilla.
There are two ways to test and identify the location of a leak.
Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with food grade lube
Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)
Spray or lightly sponge the entirety of the lid and neck of the FermZilla with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Ensure the lid collar, the whole of the lid and the Carbonation Caps, threads and PRV are covered.
Examine the lid and neck for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the lid or neck of the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak
If any leaks are detected, please refer to
Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with
Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)
Half fill a suitable bucket or container (large enough to fit the FermZilla) with cold water
Unless the tank itself is cracked (in which case it will need to be replaced) then the Tri-Conical range can only leak from the lid, Collection Container or Butterfly Valve assembly of the FermZilla.
There are two ways to test and identify the location of a leak.
Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with
Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)
Spray or lightly sponge the entirety of the lid and neck of the FermZilla with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Ensure the lid collar, the whole of the lid and the Carbonation Caps, threads and PRV are covered.
Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with
Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)
Half fill a suitable bucket or container (large enough to fit the FermZilla) with cold water
Once a leak has been identified the cause of the leak needs to be determined and corrected.
If the leak is from the lid itself or the neck of the FermZilla then remove the lid and inspect the threads of the FermZilla tank for cracking. If a crack is located then the tank will need to be replaced.
Remove and insect the lid o-ring from the inner lid. Inspect the o-ring for burrs, cuts or damage. If this is damaged it will need to be replaced with a
Inspect the threads of the and the for cracks, nicks or damage. If this is the source of the leak it will need to be replaced.
Once parts are inspected and/or replaced as needed, ensure the o-ring and threads are lubricated with food grade lube and repeat the above tests.
If the lid is still leaking make sure that the stainless-steel handles are not too tight. Loosen these\ handles (or remove) and then perform another leak test. The handles should only be hand tight as too tight can result in distortion of the neck of the Fermzilla
Inspect the threads on the Collection Container. If any cracks are found this will need to be replaced. Ensure that the threads are lubed and the Carbonation Caps are only hand tightened when replacing fittings.
Inspect the for nicks or damage. If these are damaged they will need to be replaced.
If no physical issues are found carefully reassemble the Collection Container and Butterfly Valve. Lubricate the beaded seals and all threads with food grade lube. Reassemble and retest the FermZilla.
If you are still experiencing issues please send through a video to the email showing where the leak is occurring (leak test) and photos of the condition of the lid and o-ring.
If a steady stream of bubbles, or slow but regular bubbles are visible, then the FermZilla may have a leak
If the exact position of the leak cannot be determined (if the vessel is not large enough to see the whole lid, for example) then perform a Detergent Bubble Test to identify the location of the leak
Spray or lightly sponge the threads/caps/Carbonation Caps of the Collection Container with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Also spray or lightly sponge the Butterfly Valve assembly and the flange and clamps of the assembly
Examine the bottom assembly (Collection Container, Butterfly Valve and 2" TC flange) for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak
If any leaks are detected, please refer to Fixing Leaks
After checking the lid, lower the FermZIlla into the vessel so that the bottom assembly (Collection Container, Butterfly Valve and 2" TC flange) are submerged
If a steady stream of bubbles, or slow but regular bubbles are visible, then the FermZilla may have a leak
If the exact position of the leak cannot be determined (if the vessel is not large enough to see the whole lid, for example) then perform a Detergent Bubble Test to identify the location of the leak
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Tips, Tricks & Accessories
The FermZIlla range is distinguished by being pressure capable fermenters which allow fermenting and transferring beer under pressure. There are also a number of super handy accessories available to improve your beer and your brewing! The FermZilla range has a number of advantages over more traditional fermenters on the market.
As a pressure capable fermenter, the FermZilla can be treated as an all in one fermentation and dispensing unit. If the FermZilla is equipped for pressure fermentation, simply ferment and cold crash as normal. Once the cold crash is complete, there is no need to transfer to a keg.
Simply connect the FermZilla to CO2 using the Gas Post, and connect a tap of some kind to the Liquid Post. Once connected (and the beer is chilled and carbonated) you are good to go!
Recommended taps include the NukaTap Mini FC Disconnect Kit, the Nylon Composite Pluto Gun and the duo-Bronco/duo-Picnic Party Tap. These are all great options to have to hand for pulling samples during fermentation (to check gravity etc).
To harvest the yeast from a fermentation it is as simple as waiting for fermentation to be complete. Ideally perform a cold crash to cause yeast in suspension to flocculate out. Once fermentation is done and the beer is transferred, simply close the Butterfly Valve and remove the Collection Container.
The Collection Container can then simply be capped and placed in the fridge to be pitched into the next brew. Otherwise the yeast and trub can be carefully decanted in sanitised jars or similar and stored in the fridge until ready to use. Yeast harvested and stored in this manner will remain viable for approximately one month.
It is always best to minimise introducing oxygen (O2) into the beer once fermentation is underway. Oxidation can cause off flavours (typically described as a 'cardboard' taste). Oxidation can also seriously impact hop flavour and aroma, resulting in a loss of both flavour and aroma. Low Oxygen Dry Hopping procedures are great for hoppy beer styles such as NEIPAs, XPAs, Pale Ales etc.
The FermZilla Tri-conical offer low oxygen dry hopping capability with very few extra required parts and is quite easy and quick to introduce into your normal fermentation schedule.
To use the Collection Container for LODO (Low Dissolved Oxygen) dry hopping replace once of the black PCO1881 caps with a KL10788 . This allows you to easily connect CO2 to the collection container. Use the other post to attach a .
To use the Collection Container for dry hopping, it must first be cleaned and sanitised. It is quite useful to have a separate for this purpose. These instructions assume that the Collection Container has already been removed, cleaned and sanitised and the Butterfly Valve is closed on the FermZilla Tri-Conical.
Place the required dry hops in the sanitised Collection Container
Attach the Collection Container to the the 3" Butterfly Valve at the base of the FermZilla Tri-Conical
Set your regulator to between 5-10psi and connect the gas ball lock disconnect to the Carbonation Cap on the Collection Container
The Hop Bong is a fantastic way to dry hop in a FermZilla without introducing O2 (LODO). The Hop Bong is suitable for all pressure capable FermZillas (the Tri-Conical and the All Rounder). It can be purchased as a (if you have the required Carbonation Caps, dip tube etc) or as a .
The Hop Bong assembly can be attached at the start of fermentation. It can also be added to the lid at any stage - simply keep the 2" Butterfly Valve closed until the Hop Bong has been attached.
Remove the lid of the Hop Bong by undoing the 2" Tri Clover clamp
Add the required dry hop to the Hop Bong
Replace the lid on the Hop Bong and secure the 2" Tri-Clover clamp
Set your regulator to between 5-10psi and connect the gas ball lock disconnect to the Carbonation Cap on the Hop Bong
For more information and detailed instructions for the Hop Bong, please refer to this video
The is the perfect accessory for the FermZilla range! Unlike stainless fermenters, the FermZilla is made of transparent PET. PET is easy to clean, sanitary and also transparent to WiFi signals, making the use of a network capable floating hydrometer such as the RAPT Pill very simple. Using the RAPT Pill connected to your home network (or to another RAPT device such as a via Bluetooth) you can get near real time gravity and temperature readings from directly inside the FermZilla! This unlocks powerful and easy fermentation and temperature control and is a highly recommended upgrade.
More more information please refer to this video
The is the most capable Fermentation Chamber on the market. It was designed from the ground up to hold 2 x 30L FermZilla All Rounders, 1 x 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical (with or without Hop Bong) or 1 x FermZilla 60L All Rounder or 55L Tri-Conical. With built in heating and cooling, WiFi and Bluetooth* connectivity and connection and control via the RAPT ecosystem it is the easiest and most advanced method of fermentation control on the market!
*Bluetooth connectivity works only in conjunction with a
For more information, please refer to this video
The FermZilla range can also be used in conjunction with a glycol chiller such as the
You will need to install a for the temperature probe and also a cooling coil such as the . All FermZilla lids have ports marked for drilling in order to fit these accessories. Otherwise, a can also be purchased. These can also be installed in the which enables the use of the Hop Bong in conjunction with a glycol setup.
Due to the shape of the FermZIlla range (the conical shape of the Tri-Conical FermZilla and the rounded base of the All Rounder) you can skip the whirlpool in the kettle and just transfer everything! The hops and trub will simply settle out. You can then use the Collection Container of the Tri-Conical to dump this (if desired). In addition, when transferring under pressure, we are only drawing clear beer from the surface during the process, greatly minimising the amount of solids that can make their way into the keg.
By attaching a ball lock post to the bottom of the Collection Container, you now have a variety of removable options at your fingertips.
You can connect a KL21821 sanitised duo-Bronco / duo-Picnic Party Tap mounted to a KL24235 6.35mm to allow to take hydrometer samples. Simply slip some 10mm hose over the end of the tap and you now have a simple bottling gun!
Just make sure the FermZilla is elevated so that gravity can carry the beer down to the bottle. You may need to remove some of the trub and yeast sediment before using this method to get clear beer. Crash chilling after fermentation will make the trub compact faster.
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Pressure Transfers
One of the main advantages of a pressurisable FermZilla is the ability to transfer the finished beer into a keg under pressure. This enables a closed transfer with neither the keg nor the FermZilla needing to be opened so that it is possible to all but completely eliminate the risk of oxidation/O2 ingress.
This is a fantastic boon for the avid homebrewer - avoiding oxidation when transferring helps all beers, especially modern hoppy styles such as NEIPAs.
Whilst fermenting under pressure can be performed using just the CO2 generated during fermentation, most pressure transfers will require a source of CO2 and a regulator. Options for this include a refillable 2.6kg or 6kg CO2 Cylinder and a MK5 Regulator. If space is limited a KegLand Branded Sodastream cylinder and a Mini 360 regulator are great options.
There are two easy ways to transfer your beer under pressure. The first step is to sanitise and purge the keg to be filled with CO2.
Once the keg has been cleaned and rinsed, completely fill the keg with sanitiser solution such as StellarSan diluted to the correct ratio
Invert the keg for 120 seconds, then put the right way up to make sure that all surfaces some into contact with the sanitiser
Connect the keg to CO2 at around 10psi. Pull the PRV a couple of times to purge the small amount of headspace
Next we need to push the sanitiser out of the keg. Ideally connect the full keg to an empty, clean keg. Connect the two Liquid (Out) Posts with a short length of line. Put a Spunding Valve on the Gas Post of the empty keg. Use this to vent pressure in the empty keg at around 5psi. The pressure differential will push the sanitiser from the full keg to the empty keg
If you do not have an empty keg then the sanitiser can be transferred into any vessel of around 20L, or simply emptied into the sink.
Once the transfer is complete, the empty keg will now be sanitised and purged of O2. It will also have some residual pressure which is ideal for transferring from the FermZilla
A can also be repurposed to detect sanitiser rather than beer - check out this video. It is a great way to automate this process.
Before transferring the finished beer into a keg, we want to ensure that it is completely fermented. Taking a gravity reading over three consecutive is is the best way to ensure this. If the reading is stable for three consecutive days we can be sure that the fermentation is finished.
Before transferring the completed beer, it is ideal to cold crash the beer.
Cold crashing is quite simple if you have temperature control for your FermZilla. Simply set the temperature to -1-2°C (or as low as you can if it will not go this low). Once the desired cold crash temperature has been achieved, leave the finished beer at this temperature for 2-4 days. This will 'cold crash' the finished beer. Cold crashing helps a lot with getting solids such as hop matter, yeast and other solids in suspension to drop out of the beer. It also helps to compact the trub in the fermenter. Cold crashing is therefore very beneficial for transferring a clean beer into the keg, minimising trub in the keg.
If you cannot cold crash that is OK. The integrated filter on the floating dip tube will assist greatly in preventing hop matter etc from being transferred into the keg.
IMPORTANT: Before cold crashing, you must add pressure to the FermZilla. Positive pressure of approximately 10psi is required. before cold crashing. This is because as the beer gets chilled, CO2 in the headspace will be absorbed into solution. If there is not sufficient pressure (CO2) in the head space, this can cause negative pressure in the FermZilla which can cause the tank to be deformed once the atmospheric pressure is higher than the internal pressure.
Ideally, hooking the FermZilla to CO2 at around 10psi when cold crashing will prevent this, and also help to carbonate the beer before it is transferred.
To transfer the finished beer using pressure you will need a transfer line (a short length of line with a liquid disconnect on each end) and a Spunding Valve, as well as a purged, empty keg.
Following the guide to , you will have a sanitised, O2 free keg with a small amount of residual pressure in it.
Connect the FermZilla to a regulated source of CO2. Set the regulator to ~10psi
Turn the handle of the Spunding Valve clockwise (so that it does not let out pressure). Put the Spunding Valve on the Gas In Post of the sanitised keg
Adjust the Spunding Valve until it is venting at a pressure slightly lower than the pressure in the FermZilla (~7psi). Starting the transfer with a small pressure difference will help to minimise foaming issues
Another method of pressure transferring the completed beer is a Closed Loop Gravity Transfer. This method is very useful if you wish to do a completely closed transfer (whereby no CO2 is vented during the process). This can be beneficial for super oppy beers as no hop aroma will be 'blown off' during the transfer process.
Another benefit of a closed transfer is that no additional CO2 is required - the residual pressure in the FermZIlla should be sufficient.
A Closed Loop transfer is effectively a siphon. Thus, the keg must be lower than the FermZilla for the transfer to complete.
Following the guide to , you will have a sanitised, O2 free keg with a small amount of residual pressure in it.
Ensure that there is at least 5psi (ideally ~10psi) pressure in the FermZilla
Position the FermZilla and the keg so that the FermZilla is higher than the keg
Connect the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to the Liquid Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the )
NOTE: There are several ways to either stop the transfer automatically once the keg is full, or alternatively to monitor the process so that it is easy to determine when to stop the transfer.
A is an easy and inexpensive way to automatically stop the transfer. Simply place the Flow Stopper on the Gas Post of the target keg (you can use a longish length of line in order to add a Spunding Valve to this as well).
A simple method is to place the keg on before filling. TARE the weright to zero once everything is assembled, and stop filling at around 18.5kg - this will ensure the keg is filled below the gas dip tube.
If the beer has been cold crashed prior to transfer, then you can use the condensation line on the keg as a guide.
For a more precise guide for transferring cold crashed beer, a is a great way to help gauge fill volume during the transfer.
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Assembly
Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached
Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring
Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Hydro Test Guide
This instruction sheet contains vital information that is related to safely performing a hydro test of a FermZilla tank which is past its Hydro Test date. It is vital that you read this instruction sheet from front to back before performing this test!
THIS IS FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY
Hydrotesting is a simple process that anyone can do at home with relatively basic tools and equipment.
If you have any doubts in the process or do not have time to do the hydrotest then once the tank has expired you should not continue to use the tank under pressure. Replacement new tanks can be purchased from KegLand Distributors
All FermZillas have a Date Stamp on the tank body as below
This date is the date after which the tank needs to be Hydro Tested before using under pressure.
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Cleaning
Cleaning is essential in order to ensure that you have trouble free fermentation and minimise the risk of infection or contamination. The recommended cleaner for the FermZilla range is . may also be used however it is important to limit contact time to 30 minutes or less as prolonged contact time with StellarClean PBW can degrade PET. StellarOxy is sufficient in most situations. StellarCleam PBW can be more effective on oils (for example, if using a large amount of dry hops in the FermZilla it can be preferable to use StellarClean.
Once cleaned the FermZilla should also be sanitised. is the recommended sanitiser for interior surfaces. For exterior fittings such as carbonation caps etc, we recommend spraying with
NOTE: The FermZilla must be cleaned and sanitised before use.
Carefully release all pressure from the FermZilla vessel and collection container
Once purged, disconnect the CO2 and open the Butterfly Valve to introduce the hops into the FermZilla tank
While connected and pressurised, pull the PRV on the lid of the Hop Bong several times. This will purge and refill the container with CO2, effectively displacing the O2 in the Hop Bong
Once purged, disconnect the CO2 and open the Butterfly Valve to introduce the hops into the FermZilla tank
The pressure differential will 'push' the finished beer into the keg
Once the transfer is under way, you can adjust the Spunding Valve down to about 5psi. The greater pressure differential will speed up the transfer process
Once the transfer is complete, disconnect the transfer line from both posts. Remove the Spunding Valve from the keg. Remove the gas line from the FermZilla
Congratulations! The finished beer is now kegged and ready to go. It should now be p[laced in a kegerator or similar ready for dispensing. If it was fermented and cold crashed under pressure then it will already be partially or completely carbonated. Connect the keg to CO2 at 10-12psi to complete carbonation if required
Once the transfer is underway, connect the Gas Post of the FermZilla to the Gas Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the Big Jumper). This will keep the pressures equalised between the FermZilla and the keg, enabled the transfer to complete as a siphon
Once the transfer is complete, disconnect the transfer line from both liquid posts. Remove the gas line from the FermZilla and the keg
Congratulations! The finished beer is now kegged and ready to go. It should now be p[laced in a kegerator or similar ready for dispensing. If it was fermented and cold crashed under pressure then it will already be partially or completely carbonated. Connect the keg to CO2 at 10-12psi to complete carbonation if required
Use one of the bottle caps to close of one of the holes in the lid
Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve
Push the three piece airlock into the silicone bung then push both parts into the remaining hole in the lid
Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached
Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring
On the underside of the lid, push the silicone dip tube firmly onto the barb of the yellow Carbonation Cap*
Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve
Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring or Easy Grip Lid Ring
*Cutting the silicone dip tube so that the ball float just rests at the base of the FermZilla tank will give the best results when transferring the finished beer
Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached
Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring
Place the thread lid ring over the lid before assembling - once the Carbonation Caps are in place this will not fit over them
Thread a red and a yellow KL10788 Carbonation Caps onto each post. Do not overtighten - these are a wedge seal. Overtightening can crack the posts which will prevent a pressure seal
On the underside of the lid, push the silicone dip tube firmly onto the barb of the yellow Carbonation Cap*
Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve
Assemble the Butterfly Valve and Hop Bong. A 2" Tri-Clover clamp and beaded seal i used to secure the butterfly valve to the lid, and the Hop Bong to the butterfly valve. We recommend fitting a to the side outlet of the Hop Bong
Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring
*Cutting the silicone dip tube so that the ball float just rests at the base of the FermZilla tank will give the best results when transferring the finished beer
Insert a bolt into a hole of each of the handles
Screw a nut onto the bolt. Don’t tighten this nut yet
Place the handles around the collar of the FermZilla as shown in the image below.
Insert the second bolt into the remaining holes on the handle and screw the remaining nut onto this bolt
Tighten the two nuts while holding the bolts to prevent them from spinning. Do not overtighten as it can warp the opening of the FermZilla. The handles should be able to freely rotate around the neck of the FermZilla. If they cannot rotate then it is too tight
*Stainless Handle Assembly not included with FermZIlla Easy-Grip models
Place the 3” tri-clover seal and butterfly valve onto the 3” tri-clover ferrule on the tank
Best practice is to use a small amount of food grade lube on the seal before assembly
Fasten the butterfly valve in place onto the tank using the 3” tri-clover 3-piece clamp, ensuring that the seal is seated in the groove on the butterfly valve and tank
Note: It is good practice to lubricate tri-clover seals using food-grade lube to help form a hermetic seal
IMPORTANT: Depressurise the vessel prior to disassembling the butterfly dump valve.
To release the pressure in the vessel, pull the ring on the PRV on the lid until there is no audible hissing heard (this is caused by CO2 escaping from the tank)
Once the vessel is depressurised the butterfly valve can be removed by loosening the 3” tri-clover clamp which holds the butterfly valve in place
The Collection Container has many uses. The primary function is for collecting and harvesting yeast. However, it can also be used for several other purposes such as:
Reagent Bottle
Dry Hopping Bottle
Beer Sampling Bottle
Collection and disposal of unwanted turb or hop material
Carbonation of small samples
Yeast culturing container
The FermZilla 600ml Collection Container is made from heat resistant Tritan plastic. This is robust, heat and chemical resistant and can also handle extended contact with hot liquid at 100°C (212°F)
Note: The current generation of 600ml Tri-Conical Collection Containers are made from a reformulated version of Tritan which is substantially tougher. This makes it more resistant to damage (if dropped etc) and less likely to crack if excessive force is used (when threading carbonation caps, for example).
This generation can be identified by a small raised circle on the base next to the cap thread - see below
Best practice is to use a small amount of food grade lube on the seal before assembly
The caps on the 600ml collection jar can be replaced with red and yellow KL10788 Carbonation Caps or a PCO1881 threaded PRV Cap Combo as desired
Place the 3" beaded tri-clover seal in the groove on the top of the collection container.
Assemble this against the corresponding groove in the 3" tri-clover butterfly valve, and fasten with the 3” tri-clover 3-piece clamp, ensuring that the seal is seated in the groove on the butterfly valve and collection container
It is extremely important that if you have wort in the Collection Container attached that you keep the butterfly valve open during the entirety of the fermentation process. The butterfly valve should only be closed once fermentation has ceased which is to be determined by three consecutive days of the same Specific Gravity reading.
To remove the Collection Container once fermentation has ceased it is important to depressurise the entire system. To release the pressure in the vessel, open the butterfly valve if necessary (note: this will already be open during normal fermentation) and pull the ring on the PRV until there is no audible hissing from the PRV. It is also a good idea to loosen one of the carbonation caps on the collection vessel to ensure the Collection Container is completely depressurised.
Once the system is depressurised the butterfly valve should then be closed if there is liquid in the FermZilla. Then the Collection Container can be detached from the butterfly valve by removing the lower 3” tri-clover 3-piece clamp. This clamp can then be used to secure the lid on the collection jar if desired.
If the Collection Container is sealed after removing it is vital that fermentation cannot continue as this can cause unregulated pressure build up. We recommend storing Collection Containers in the fridge to help prevent this possibility.
Note: The Stainless Steel Float with Silicone Dip Tube and Mesh Filter (optional or part of the Pressure Brewing Pack) must be cut to the correct length before use.
For most situations, cutting the dip tube so that it sits at the base of the FermZilla when the tube is gently curved. We want the dip tube to be able to reach the bottom of the vessel but not so long that it will rest against the sides when transferring. See images below (Tri-Conical on the left, All Rounder on the right)
To gauge the correct length, lower the dip tube into the vessel until the desired length is acheived. Cut the dip tube where it reaches the top oif the neck of the FermZilla. Once cut to the correct length push it onto the yellow Carbonation Cap. Note: Carbonation Caps are Multi Posts, so can be used for gas or liquid. We use yellow for liquid and red (DANGER) for gas in order to be consistent and minimise the risk of error.
The Ball Float can be positioned in the optional float positions on the filter, using the three hoops on the filter. The filter will sit lower in solution when the ball float is attached closer to the end - see below
The best way to accurately apply the graduation sticker to the FermZilla tank is to first fill the tank with 5L of water.
This can be done using an accurate jug, or by weighing out 5kg water.
Once filled with 5L water, apply the graduation sticker so that ithe 5L line is level with the water. Ensure the FermZilla is on a level surface to ensure correct placement.
The Date Stamp on the FermZilla tank is 24 months after the manufacture date. This is a good guide as to when the tank requires hydro testing.
However, if the FermZilla has been correctly stored in the original, unopened carton then it is not required to Hydro Test until 24 months from the date of purchase.
The tank will remain in 'as new' condition when stored correctly in an unopened carton as it is not exposed to UV or chemicals etc.
Please make a note of the date of purchase of the FermZilla and ensure it is Hydro Tested 24 months from the date of purchase
Do not perform the Hydro Test with an empty tank
Fill the tank with water to the brim before testing.
The reason it is important to fill the tank with water when testing is because water is incompressible. This means in the event that the tank fails the test the resulting rupture will be safe. If the tank is filled with compressible gas such as CO2 then the failure will have significantly more stored energy and the resultant failure can be much more dangerous.
Thus it is important to completely fill the tank with water prior to testing
Assemble the FermZilla (if required). Fill the tank to the brim with water
Remove the red 2.5bar PRV from the FermZilla lid and replace with a grey 6.5bar PRV. NOTE: Ensure this PRV is swapped back for the red 2.5bar PRV immediately the test is complete. DO not operate the FermZilla with the incorrect PRV installed
Once the FermZilla is filled with water and the lid in place, slowly apply pressure to the tank. It is important to apply pressure in a controlled manner. There are two methods to apply pressure in a controlled manner
Connect mains pressure water to a length of 6.35mm EVABarrier with an inline regulator and liquid disconnect. You can use a KL13888 duotight - 6.35mm (1/4'') x 3/4 inch BSP Thread Female to connect to a 3/4" tap outlet, or a KL17756 6.35mm Diverter Valve 1/2" BSP to connect to a standard under sink outlet
Use a short length of KL42789 Black Lightshield 6.35mm EVABarrier, a KL26918 6.35mm Inline Regulator and a KL24235 6.35mm duotight Disconnect - Liquid to make a mains connected water line with inline regulation and a liquid disconnect to attach to the liquid post on the FermZilla
Connect a KL11532 duotight 0-150psi push in gauge to a KL20756 8mm duotight Disconnect - Gas. This will be used on the FermZilla to accurately measure the pressure in the tank
Ensure the Inline Regulator is set to 0psi - the yellow knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise. Connect the liquid disconnect to the liquid post of the FermZilla.
Connect the gas disconnect and gauge to the gas post of the FermZIlla
Slowly turn the yellow handle of the Inline Regulator until the pressure reaches 4 bar (60psi). Confirm this pressure on the gauge attached to the gas post of the FermZilla. Note: It is normal for the FermZilla tank to swell in size and stretch during the hydro test
Once 4 bar has been reached, stop increasing pressure. Leave everything connected for 1 minute. Remove the liquid disconnect (connecting the tank to mains pressure water). Inspect the FermZilla tank. If the tank has not failed then the FermZilla has been successfully passed the Hydro Test and does not need testing for a further 24 months
If there are any visible cracks or damage, or if the tank ruptures then the Hydro Test has failed and the tank will need to be replaced
Fill a Cornelius Keg and the FermZilla to be tested completely with water
Connect the Cornelius Keg to a regulated gas source such as a KL01489 2.6kg or KL01496 6kg CO2 cylinder and and a KL07429 MK4 Type 30 Regulator
Ensure the line out from the regulator is terminated with a gas disconnect such as a KL20756 8mm duotight Disconnect - Gas
Ensure the regulator is set to 0psi - the knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise
Daisy chain the Cornelius Keg from the Liquid (Out) Post of the keg to the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to be tested using a length of EVABarrier and 2 x Liquid Disconnects. A length of KL06224 and 2 x KL20749 is ideal for this
Connect a KL11532 to a KL20756 . This will be used on the FermZilla to accurately measure the pressure in the tank. Connect the gas disconnect and gauge to the gas post of the FermZIlla
Slowly and in a controlled manner adjust the regulator until the pressure reaches 4 bar (60psi). Confirm this pressure on the gauge attached to the gas post of the FermZilla. Ensure that water is being transferred into the FermZilla, not gas. Note: It is normal for the FermZilla tank to swell in size and stretch during the hydro test
Once 4 bar has been reached, stop increasing pressure. Leave everything connected for 1 minute. Remove the liquid disconnect connect the keg to the FermZIlla. Inspect the FermZilla tank. If the tank has not failed then the FermZilla has been successfully passed the Hydro Test and does not need testing for a further 24 months
If there are any visible cracks or damage, or if the tank ruptures then the Hydro Test has failed and the tank will need to be replaced
Remove the FermZilla collection container, tri-clover butterfly Valve and the lid
Rinse the walls of the FermZilla vessel, collection container, lid and butterfly valve (including the external face of the butterfly valve) with cold water. A garden hose is particularly useful for rinsing and dislodging yeast/hop matter
Use a non-abrasive cloth (microfibre cloths are ideal) to remove any stuck on particulate matter from the walls of the FermZilla, lid, collection vessel and butterfly valve
Reattach the butterfly valve and close the valve, leaving the collection vessel unattached
Rinse the collection vessel by filling it with cold water and StellarOxy or Stellarclean according to the instructions on the tub, attach the lid and shake to dislodge any yeast/hop matter
Then fill the FermZilla with cold water and the correct dosage of StellarOxy or StellarClean according to the instructions on the tub. After 30 minutes of soaking, gently wipe away any soiling with a soft cloth. Make sure not to use harsh scrubbers that may scratch the plastic and create ideal places for batch-ruining bacteria to hide. NOTE: If using StellarClean it is important to limit contact time to 30 minutes
If there is a large amount of hops or yeast coating the walls of the fermenter it is best to perform a longer overnight wash using StellarOxy. Do not leave StellarClean in the vessel for longer than 30 minutes as this can damage the tank
Remove the lid and drain the StellarClean or StellarOxy solution by opening the butterfly valve and then rinse thoroughly using cold water - a garden hose is ideal for this
Fill the FermZilla and collection vessel with cold water again and add StellarSan according to the instructions on the bottle. Reattach the lid and shake the full FermZilla to coat all surfaces - contact time of 60 seconds is required for StellarSan to be effective. It is safe to leave StellarSan (at the correct dilution) in the tank. However, prolonged contact with StellarSan can cause harmless discolouration of the silicon dip tube
The Bucket Blaster is ideal for cleaning a FermZIlla.
Assemble the Bucket Blaster according to the instructions
Connect the Bucket Blaster to power, ensuring a Drip Loop is used as per the instructions
Fill the Bucket Blaster with water that is less than 40°C until the pump is fully submerged.
The the suggested correct dosage of or to the bucket. Ensure it is correctly diluted
Carefully release all pressure from the FermZilla vessel and collection container
Remove the FermZilla collection container, tri-clover butterfly Valve and the lid
Rinse the walls of the FermZilla vessel, collection container, lid and butterfly valve (including the external face of the butterfly valve) with cold water. A garden hose is particularly useful for rinsing and dislodging yeast/hop matter. This step is optional when using a Bucket Blaster but will help ensure thorough cleaning and speed the process up
Reattach the butterfly valve and collection container and ensure the valve is open
Place the FermZilla upside down on the stand and insert the spray wand and jet into the opening of the vessel
Turn the pump on and allow the Bucket Blaster to do the rest
Once the FermZIlla is clean, repeat the cleaning process using clean water (no more than 40°C) to thoroughly rinse the FermZilla
Fill the FermZilla and collection vessel with cold water again and add according to the instructions on the bottle. Reattach the lid and shake the full FermZilla to coat all surfaces - contact time of 60 seconds is required for StellarSan to be effective. It is safe to leave StellarSan (at the correct dilution) in the tank. However, prolonged contact with StellarSan can cause harmless discolouration of the silicon dip tube
If krausen or sticky wort has contacted the PRV you will need to clean the PRV to ensure it still activates at 35psi.
This can be easily done by releasing the pressure in the FermZilla by pulling on the ring pull until no pressure is left in the vessel, then unscrew the PRV.
Submerge this PRV in StellarClean solution to remove any sticky residue. Once all the residue has been removed, rinse and then sanitise the PRV with StellarSan or ethyl kill solution and screw back in to the pressure lid. The Carbonation Caps can also be removed, dismantled and cleaned in the same manner.
It is recommended to clean the PRV and Carbonation Caps every few brews to ensure that no sticky wort build up causes issues.
When fermenting under pressure or if fermentation has been particularly active or vigourous krausen or beer may enter the Spunding Valve. In this situation the Spunding Valve will need to be disassembled and cleaned to ensure it operates correctly.
Follow these steps to disassemble and clean a Spunding Valve
Completely remove the yellow adjustment knob and spring
Unscrew the four large screws on the face of the Blowtie Spunding Valve and the two small screws on the housing of the integrated pressure gauge
Remove the integrated pressure gauge housing and the integrated pressure gauge by gently pulling up on the dial
Remove the face of the BlowTie Spunding Valve
Remove the diaphragm assembly
Remove the collets on the duotight fittings
Remove the o-rings within the duotight fittings
Soak all components in StellarClean solution for 30 minutes and then reassemble
This process is also covered in this video
FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L & 55L | Inclusions
