Introducing the Gen3 FermZilla Tri-Conical

Now with 3 Inch Tri-Clover ferrule moulded into the tank and a 600mL Collection Container with a 3 Inch Tri-clover connection. Tri Clover fittings are the gold standard for sanitary design and effortless removal. This unit was born from customer feedback we received on the Gen 2 Model. No more complicated dump valve designs here, just simplicity.

Brew with confidence in the new Tri-Clover FermZilla Range.

The FermZilla allows many of the benefits of much more expensive stainless conical fermenters but with the additional benefit of being able to see the fermentation process in action and also ferment at pressures up to 2.4bar. This is an incredible product at an extremely attractive price point in all the different sizes and models.

What's new the difference between Gen2 and Gen3? 1. Moulded 3 inch tri clover ferrule in the body of the FermZilla tank 2. 3 inch Tri-Clover Butterfly Valve 3. 3 Inch Tri-Clover 600mL Collection Container

Is it easier to clean / take apart than the Gen2?

YES, it is by far the easiest Conical PET fermenter to disassemble and clean! Simply release all pressure inside the vessel and detatch the tri clover clamps. All parts come apart easily and can be cleaned and sanitised individually with no effort.

This instruction sheet contains vital information that is related to the safe usage and handling of the FermZilla Tri-Conical Unitank.

It is vital that you read this instruction sheet from front to back before using the product!

THIS IS FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY WHEN USING A PRESSURISABLE FERMENTAION VESSEL

1. Do not loosen the tri-clover clamps when the FermZilla is under pressure. Purge all pressure in the FermZilla and the collection container before loosening the tri-clover clamps

FermZIlla Lid Assembly

Lid Assembly | Caps and Airlock

1. Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached

2. Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring

3. Place the lid onto the neck of the tank and screw down the threaded lid ring

4. Use one of the bottle caps to close of one of the holes in the lid

5. Ensure the Red PRV is placed into the pressure relief valve

6. Push the three piece airlock into the silicone bung then push both parts into the remaining hole in the lid

1. Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached

2. Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring

3. Thread a and a KL10788 Carbonation Cap onto each post. Do not overtighten - these are a wedge seal. Overtightening can crack the posts which will prevent a pressure seal

*Cutting the silicone dip tube so that the ball float just rests at the base of the FermZilla tank will give the best results when transferring the finished beer

1. Ensure the lid assembly has the o-ring attached

2. Apply some food grade lubricant to the o-ring to extend the life of this o-ring and threads. Adding lubricant will also improve the sealing ability of the o-ring

3. Place the thread lid ring over the lid before assembling - once the Carbonation Caps are in place this will not fit over them

*Cutting the silicone dip tube so that the ball float just rests at the base of the FermZilla tank will give the best results when transferring the finished beer

1. Insert a bolt into a hole of each of the handles

2. Screw a nut onto the bolt. Don’t tighten this nut yet

3. Place the handles around the collar of the FermZilla as shown in the image below.

4. Insert the second bolt into the remaining holes on the handle and screw the remaining nut onto this bolt

*Stainless Handle Assembly not included with FermZIlla Easy-Grip models

1. Place the 3” tri-clover seal and butterfly valve onto the 3” tri-clover ferrule on the tank

2. Best practice is to use a small amount of on the seal before assembly

3. Fasten the butterfly valve in place onto the tank using the 3” tri-clover 3-piece clamp, ensuring that the seal is seated in the groove on the butterfly valve and tank

Note: It is good practice to lubricate tri-clover seals using food-grade lube to help form a hermetic seal

IMPORTANT: Depressurise the vessel prior to disassembling the butterfly dump valve.

1. To release the pressure in the vessel, pull the ring on the PRV on the lid until there is no audible hissing heard (this is caused by CO2 escaping from the tank)

2. Once the vessel is depressurised the butterfly valve can be removed by loosening the 3” tri-clover clamp which holds the butterfly valve in place

The Collection Container has many uses. The primary function is for collecting and harvesting yeast. However, it can also be used for several other purposes such as:

• Reagent Bottle

• Dry Hopping Bottle

• Beer Sampling Bottle

• Collection and disposal of unwanted turb or hop material

The FermZilla 600ml Collection Container is made from heat resistant Tritan plastic. This is robust, heat and chemical resistant and can also handle extended contact with hot liquid at 100°C (212°F)

Note: The current generation of 600ml Tri-Conical Collection Containers are made from a reformulated version of Tritan which is substantially tougher. This makes it more resistant to damage (if dropped etc) and less likely to crack if excessive force is used (when threading carbonation caps, for example).

This generation can be identified by a small raised circle on the base next to the cap thread - see below

1. Best practice is to use a small amount of on the seal before assembly

2. The caps on the 600ml collection jar can be replaced with and KL10788 Carbonation Caps or a as desired

3. Place the 3" beaded tri-clover seal in the groove on the top of the collection container.

It is extremely important that if you have wort in the Collection Container attached that you keep the butterfly valve open during the entirety of the fermentation process. The butterfly valve should only be closed once fermentation has ceased which is to be determined by three consecutive days of the same Specific Gravity reading.

To remove the Collection Container once fermentation has ceased it is important to depressurise the entire system. To release the pressure in the vessel, open the butterfly valve if necessary (note: this will already be open during normal fermentation) and pull the ring on the PRV until there is no audible hissing from the PRV. It is also a good idea to loosen one of the carbonation caps on the collection vessel to ensure the Collection Container is completely depressurised.

Once the system is depressurised the butterfly valve should then be closed if there is liquid in the FermZilla. Then the Collection Container can be detached from the butterfly valve by removing the lower 3” tri-clover 3-piece clamp. This clamp can then be used to secure the lid on the collection jar if desired.

If the Collection Container is sealed after removing it is vital that fermentation cannot continue as this can cause unregulated pressure build up. We recommend storing Collection Containers in the fridge to help prevent this possibility.

Note: The (optional or part of the Pressure Brewing Pack) must be cut to the correct length before use.

For most situations, cutting the dip tube so that it sits at the base of the FermZilla when the tube is gently curved. We want the dip tube to be able to reach the bottom of the vessel but not so long that it will rest against the sides when transferring. See images below (Tri-Conical on the left, All Rounder on the right)

To gauge the correct length, lower the dip tube into the vessel until the desired length is acheived. Cut the dip tube where it reaches the top oif the neck of the FermZilla. Once cut to the correct length push it onto the yellow Carbonation Cap. Note: Carbonation Caps are Multi Posts, so can be used for gas or liquid. We use yellow for liquid and red (DANGER) for gas in order to be consistent and minimise the risk of error.

The Ball Float can be positioned in the optional float positions on the filter, using the three hoops on the filter. The filter will sit lower in solution when the ball float is attached closer to the end - see below

The best way to accurately apply the graduation sticker to the FermZilla tank is to first fill the tank with 5L of water.

This can be done using an accurate jug, or by weighing out 5kg water.

Once filled with 5L water, apply the graduation sticker so that ithe 5L line is level with the water. Ensure the FermZilla is on a level surface to ensure correct placement.

27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions

27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Tri Clover Lid

27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong

27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Dimensions - Hop Bong + Butterfly Valve

27L & 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Easy-Grip Pressure Fermenter Starter Kit

• 1 x KL28240 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical Tank or 1 x KL28257 55L FermZilla Tri-Conical Tank

• 1 x Lid assembly - KL47319 FermZilla Easy-Grip Threaded Lid Ring, KL11402 Pressure Lid, KL05333 Red 35psi PRV and KL11426 lid o-ring

• 1 x KL01618 Strip Stick on Thermometer

• 1 x Level Indicator (Graduation) Sticker (Litres and Gallons) - KL11433 or KL11440

• 1 x KL27571

• 2 x KL25799

• 2 x KL25805

• 1 x KL30366

• 2 x KL10788 (for Gas Posts)

• 2 x KL10788 (for Liquid Posts)

• 1 x KL17060 (You will need to cut this to your desired depth)

• 1 x KB03529

• 1 x FermZilla Tri-Conical Tank with Metal Neck Ring - KL28240 or KL28257

• 1 x KL11419

• 1 x KL13079

• 1 x Lid assembly - KL11396 , KL11402 , KL05333

• 1 x Gen3 FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L or 55L Starter Kit with handle ()

• 2 x KL10788 (for Gas Posts)

• 2 x KL10788 (for Liquid Posts)

• 1 x KL17060 (You will need to cut this to your desired depth)

• 1 x Gen3 FermZilla Tri-Conical 27L or 55L Starter Kit with handle ()

• 1 x FREE* KL15042

• 1 x KB10897

If you suspect that your FermZilla has a leak it is important to properly test this.

Leak testing is not typically viable when fermentation is in progress. It is also possible to mis-identify the FermZilla as having a leak due to factors such as CO2 dissolving into solution (during cold crash, for example) or other factors.

Leak Testing | 30L & 60L All Rounder FermZillas

Unless the tank itself is cracked (in which case it will need to be replaced) then the All Rounder range can only leak from the lid or neck of the FermZilla.

There are two ways to test and identify the location of a leak.

Detergent Bubble Test

1. Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with food grade lube

2. Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)

3. Spray or lightly sponge the entirety of the lid and neck of the FermZilla with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Ensure the lid collar, the whole of the lid and the Carbonation Caps, threads and PRV are covered.

4. Examine the lid and neck for bubble formation. We are looking for bubbles forming and escaping due to CO2 escaping from the lid or neck of the FermZilla - this indicates the presence of a leak

5. If any leaks are detected, please refer to

1. Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with

2. Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)

3. Half fill a suitable bucket or container (large enough to fit the FermZilla) with cold water

Unless the tank itself is cracked (in which case it will need to be replaced) then the Tri-Conical range can only leak from the lid, Collection Container or Butterfly Valve assembly of the FermZilla.

There are two ways to test and identify the location of a leak.

1. Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with

2. Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)

3. Spray or lightly sponge the entirety of the lid and neck of the FermZilla with a detergent or StellarSan solution. Ensure the lid collar, the whole of the lid and the Carbonation Caps, threads and PRV are covered.

1. Ensure the FermZilla is empty. Assemble the FermZIlla according to instructions ensuring all threads, seals and o-rings are lightly lubricated with

2. Pressurise the FermZilla to approximately 20psi (no higher than 35psi)

3. Half fill a suitable bucket or container (large enough to fit the FermZilla) with cold water

Once a leak has been identified the cause of the leak needs to be determined and corrected.

If the leak is from the lid itself or the neck of the FermZilla then remove the lid and inspect the threads of the FermZilla tank for cracking. If a crack is located then the tank will need to be replaced.

Remove and insect the lid o-ring from the inner lid. Inspect the o-ring for burrs, cuts or damage. If this is damaged it will need to be replaced with a

Inspect the threads of the and the for cracks, nicks or damage. If this is the source of the leak it will need to be replaced.

Once parts are inspected and/or replaced as needed, ensure the o-ring and threads are lubricated with food grade lube and repeat the above tests.

If the lid is still leaking make sure that the stainless-steel handles are not too tight. Loosen these\ handles (or remove) and then perform another leak test. The handles should only be hand tight as too tight can result in distortion of the neck of the Fermzilla

Inspect the threads on the Collection Container. If any cracks are found this will need to be replaced. Ensure that the threads are lubed and the Carbonation Caps are only hand tightened when replacing fittings.

Inspect the for nicks or damage. If these are damaged they will need to be replaced.

If no physical issues are found carefully reassemble the Collection Container and Butterfly Valve. Lubricate the beaded seals and all threads with food grade lube. Reassemble and retest the FermZilla.

If you are still experiencing issues please send through a video to the email showing where the leak is occurring (leak test) and photos of the condition of the lid and o-ring.

Cleaning is essential in order to ensure that you have trouble free fermentation and minimise the risk of infection or contamination. The recommended cleaner for the FermZilla range is StellarOxy. Stellarclean may also be used however it is important to limit contact time to 30 minutes or less as prolonged contact time with StellarClean PBW can degrade PET. StellarOxy is sufficient in most situations. StellarCleam PBW can be more effective on oils (for example, if using a large amount of dry hops in the FermZilla it can be preferable to use StellarClean.

Once cleaned the FermZilla should also be sanitised. StellarSan Sanitizer is the recommended sanitiser for interior surfaces. For exterior fittings such as carbonation caps etc, we recommend spraying with Ethyl Sanitiser Spray

NOTE: The FermZilla must be cleaned and sanitised before use.

Cleaning The FermZilla

1. Carefully release all pressure from the FermZilla vessel and collection container

2. Remove the FermZilla collection container, tri-clover butterfly Valve and the lid

3. Rinse the walls of the FermZilla vessel, collection container, lid and butterfly valve (including the external face of the butterfly valve) with cold water. A garden hose is particularly useful for rinsing and dislodging yeast/hop matter

4. Use a non-abrasive cloth (microfibre cloths are ideal) to remove any stuck on particulate matter from the walls of the FermZilla, lid, collection vessel and butterfly valve

5. Reattach the butterfly valve and close the valve, leaving the collection vessel unattached

6. Rinse the collection vessel by filling it with cold water and or according to the instructions on the tub, attach the lid and shake to dislodge any yeast/hop matter

7. Then fill the FermZilla with cold water and the correct dosage of or according to the instructions on the tub. After 30 minutes of soaking, gently wipe away any soiling with a soft cloth. Make sure not to use harsh scrubbers that may scratch the plastic and create ideal places for batch-ruining bacteria to hide. NOTE: If using StellarClean it is important to limit contact time to 30 minutes

8. If there is a large amount of hops or yeast coating the walls of the fermenter it is best to perform a longer overnight wash using . Do not leave StellarClean in the vessel for longer than 30 minutes as this can damage the tank

9. Remove the lid and drain the StellarClean or StellarOxy solution by opening the butterfly valve and then rinse thoroughly using cold water - a garden hose is ideal for this

10. Fill the FermZilla and collection vessel with cold water again and add according to the instructions on the bottle. Reattach the lid and shake the full FermZilla to coat all surfaces - contact time of 60 seconds is required for StellarSan to be effective. It is safe to leave StellarSan (at the correct dilution) in the tank. However, prolonged contact with StellarSan can cause harmless discolouration of the silicon dip tube

The is ideal for cleaning a FermZIlla.

1. Assemble the Bucket Blaster according to the

2. Connect the Bucket Blaster to power, ensuring a Drip Loop is used as per the instructions

3. Fill the Bucket Blaster with water that is less than 40°C until the pump is fully submerged.

If krausen or sticky wort has contacted the PRV you will need to clean the PRV to ensure it still activates at 35psi.

This can be easily done by releasing the pressure in the FermZilla by pulling on the ring pull until no pressure is left in the vessel, then unscrew the PRV.

Submerge this PRV in StellarClean solution to remove any sticky residue. Once all the residue has been removed, rinse and then sanitise the PRV with StellarSan or ethyl kill solution and screw back in to the pressure lid. The Carbonation Caps can also be removed, dismantled and cleaned in the same manner.

It is recommended to clean the PRV and Carbonation Caps every few brews to ensure that no sticky wort build up causes issues.

When fermenting under pressure or if fermentation has been particularly active or vigourous krausen or beer may enter the Spunding Valve. In this situation the Spunding Valve will need to be disassembled and cleaned to ensure it operates correctly.

Follow these steps to disassemble and clean a Spunding Valve

1. Completely remove the yellow adjustment knob and spring

2. Unscrew the four large screws on the face of the Blowtie Spunding Valve and the two small screws on the housing of the integrated pressure gauge

3. Remove the integrated pressure gauge housing and the integrated pressure gauge by gently pulling up on the dial

This process is also covered in this video

The FermZIlla range (excluding the non pressure rated FermZilla Flat Bottom) are designed to be optimally used with CO2 pressure. They are not really designed for gravity only operation in the same manner as a fermenter with a tap.

However, there are some workarounds that can allow this, although it is not recommended.

If you intend to use FermZilla under pressure it is strongly advised to perform a leak test prior to commencing fermentation.

This will require access to an external pressure source such as a CO2 cylinder with a Type 30 MK4 regulator. To thoroughly pressure test the FermZilla it is best to perform a pressure decay leak test.

1. Assemble the FermZIlla according to the instructions

This instruction sheet contains vital information that is related to safely performing a hydro test of a FermZilla tank which is past its Hydro Test date. It is vital that you read this instruction sheet from front to back before performing this test!

THIS IS FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY

Hydrotesting is a simple process that anyone can do at home with relatively basic tools and equipment.

If you have any doubts in the process or do not have time to do the hydrotest then once the tank has expired you should not continue to use the tank under pressure. Replacement new tanks can be purchased from KegLand Distributors

All FermZillas have a Date Stamp on the tank body as below

This date is the date after which the tank needs to be Hydro Tested before using under pressure.

Advantages Of Pressure Transfers

One of the main advantages of a pressurisable FermZilla is the ability to transfer the finished beer into a keg under pressure. This enables a closed transfer with neither the keg nor the FermZilla needing to be opened so that it is possible to all but completely eliminate the risk of oxidation/O2 ingress.

This is a fantastic boon for the avid homebrewer - avoiding oxidation when transferring helps all beers, especially modern hoppy styles such as NEIPAs.

Whilst fermenting under pressure can be performed using just the CO2 generated during fermentation, most pressure transfers will require a source of CO2 and a regulator. Options for this include a refillable 2.6kg or 6kg CO2 Cylinder and a MK5 Regulator. If space is limited a KegLand Branded Sodastream cylinder and a Mini 360 regulator are great options.

There are two easy ways to transfer your beer under pressure. The first step is to sanitise and purge the keg to be filled with CO2.

Sanitising and Purging Kegs

1. Once the keg has been cleaned and rinsed, completely fill the keg with sanitiser solution such as StellarSan diluted to the correct ratio

2. Invert the keg for 120 seconds, then put the right way up to make sure that all surfaces some into contact with the sanitiser

3. Connect the keg to CO2 at around 10psi. Pull the PRV a couple of times to purge the small amount of headspace

4. Next we need to push the sanitiser out of the keg. Ideally connect the full keg to an empty, clean keg. Connect the two Liquid (Out) Posts with a short length of line. Put a Spunding Valve on the Gas Post of the empty keg. Use this to vent pressure in the empty keg at around 5psi. The pressure differential will push the sanitiser from the full keg to the empty keg

5. If you do not have an empty keg then the sanitiser can be transferred into any vessel of around 20L, or simply emptied into the sink.

6. Once the transfer is complete, the empty keg will now be sanitised and purged of O2. It will also have some residual pressure which is ideal for transferring from the FermZilla

A can also be repurposed to detect sanitiser rather than beer - check out this video. It is a great way to automate this process.

Before transferring the finished beer into a keg, we want to ensure that it is completely fermented. Taking a gravity reading over three consecutive is is the best way to ensure this. If the reading is stable for three consecutive days we can be sure that the fermentation is finished.

Before transferring the completed beer, it is ideal to cold crash the beer.

Cold crashing is quite simple if you have temperature control for your FermZilla. Simply set the temperature to -1-2°C (or as low as you can if it will not go this low). Once the desired cold crash temperature has been achieved, leave the finished beer at this temperature for 2-4 days. This will 'cold crash' the finished beer. Cold crashing helps a lot with getting solids such as hop matter, yeast and other solids in suspension to drop out of the beer. It also helps to compact the trub in the fermenter. Cold crashing is therefore very beneficial for transferring a clean beer into the keg, minimising trub in the keg.

If you cannot cold crash that is OK. The integrated filter on the floating dip tube will assist greatly in preventing hop matter etc from being transferred into the keg.

IMPORTANT: Before cold crashing, you must add pressure to the FermZilla. Positive pressure of approximately 10psi is required. before cold crashing. This is because as the beer gets chilled, CO2 in the headspace will be absorbed into solution. If there is not sufficient pressure (CO2) in the head space, this can cause negative pressure in the FermZilla which can cause the tank to be deformed once the atmospheric pressure is higher than the internal pressure.

Ideally, hooking the FermZilla to CO2 at around 10psi when cold crashing will prevent this, and also help to carbonate the beer before it is transferred.

To transfer the finished beer using pressure you will need a transfer line (a short length of line with a liquid disconnect on each end) and a Spunding Valve, as well as a purged, empty keg.

Following the guide to , you will have a sanitised, O2 free keg with a small amount of residual pressure in it.

1. Connect the FermZilla to a regulated source of CO2. Set the regulator to ~10psi

2. Turn the handle of the Spunding Valve clockwise (so that it does not let out pressure). Put the Spunding Valve on the Gas In Post of the sanitised keg

3. Adjust the Spunding Valve until it is venting at a pressure slightly lower than the pressure in the FermZilla (~7psi). Starting the transfer with a small pressure difference will help to minimise foaming issues

Another method of pressure transferring the completed beer is a Closed Loop Gravity Transfer. This method is very useful if you wish to do a completely closed transfer (whereby no CO2 is vented during the process). This can be beneficial for super oppy beers as no hop aroma will be 'blown off' during the transfer process.

Another benefit of a closed transfer is that no additional CO2 is required - the residual pressure in the FermZIlla should be sufficient.

A Closed Loop transfer is effectively a siphon. Thus, the keg must be lower than the FermZilla for the transfer to complete.

Following the guide to , you will have a sanitised, O2 free keg with a small amount of residual pressure in it.

1. Ensure that there is at least 5psi (ideally ~10psi) pressure in the FermZilla

2. Position the FermZilla and the keg so that the FermZilla is higher than the keg

3. Connect the Liquid Post of the FermZilla to the Liquid Post of the keg using a transfer line (such as the )

NOTE: There are several ways to either stop the transfer automatically once the keg is full, or alternatively to monitor the process so that it is easy to determine when to stop the transfer.

A is an easy and inexpensive way to automatically stop the transfer. Simply place the Flow Stopper on the Gas Post of the target keg (you can use a longish length of line in order to add a Spunding Valve to this as well).

A simple method is to place the keg on before filling. TARE the weright to zero once everything is assembled, and stop filling at around 18.5kg - this will ensure the keg is filled below the gas dip tube.

If the beer has been cold crashed prior to transfer, then you can use the condensation line on the keg as a guide.

For a more precise guide for transferring cold crashed beer, a is a great way to help gauge fill volume during the transfer.

The FermZIlla range is distinguished by being pressure capable fermenters which allow fermenting and transferring beer under pressure. There are also a number of super handy accessories available to improve your beer and your brewing! The FermZilla range has a number of advantages over more traditional fermenters on the market.

Dispensing from a FermZilla

As a pressure capable fermenter, the FermZilla can be treated as an all in one fermentation and dispensing unit. If the FermZilla is equipped for pressure fermentation, simply ferment and cold crash as normal. Once the cold crash is complete, there is no need to transfer to a keg.

Simply connect the FermZilla to CO2 using the Gas Post, and connect a tap of some kind to the Liquid Post. Once connected (and the beer is chilled and carbonated) you are good to go!

Recommended taps include the NukaTap Mini FC Disconnect Kit, the Nylon Composite Pluto Gun and the duo-Bronco/duo-Picnic Party Tap. These are all great options to have to hand for pulling samples during fermentation (to check gravity etc).

Yeast Harvesting (Tri-Conical series)

To harvest the yeast from a fermentation it is as simple as waiting for fermentation to be complete. Ideally perform a cold crash to cause yeast in suspension to flocculate out. Once fermentation is done and the beer is transferred, simply close the Butterfly Valve and remove the Collection Container.

The Collection Container can then simply be capped and placed in the fridge to be pitched into the next brew. Otherwise the yeast and trub can be carefully decanted in sanitised jars or similar and stored in the fridge until ready to use. Yeast harvested and stored in this manner will remain viable for approximately one month.

It is always best to minimise introducing oxygen (O2) into the beer once fermentation is underway. Oxidation can cause off flavours (typically described as a 'cardboard' taste). Oxidation can also seriously impact hop flavour and aroma, resulting in a loss of both flavour and aroma. Low Oxygen Dry Hopping procedures are great for hoppy beer styles such as NEIPAs, XPAs, Pale Ales etc.

The FermZilla Tri-conical offer low oxygen dry hopping capability with very few extra required parts and is quite easy and quick to introduce into your normal fermentation schedule.

To use the Collection Container for LODO (Low Dissolved Oxygen) dry hopping replace once of the black PCO1881 caps with a KL10788 . This allows you to easily connect CO2 to the collection container. Use the other post to attach a .

To use the Collection Container for dry hopping, it must first be cleaned and sanitised. It is quite useful to have a separate for this purpose. These instructions assume that the Collection Container has already been removed, cleaned and sanitised and the Butterfly Valve is closed on the FermZilla Tri-Conical.

1. Place the required dry hops in the sanitised Collection Container

2. Attach the Collection Container to the the 3" Butterfly Valve at the base of the FermZilla Tri-Conical

3. Set your regulator to between 5-10psi and connect the gas ball lock disconnect to the Carbonation Cap on the Collection Container

The Hop Bong is a fantastic way to dry hop in a FermZilla without introducing O2 (LODO). The Hop Bong is suitable for all pressure capable FermZillas (the Tri-Conical and the All Rounder). It can be purchased as a (if you have the required Carbonation Caps, dip tube etc) or as a .

The Hop Bong assembly can be attached at the start of fermentation. It can also be added to the lid at any stage - simply keep the 2" Butterfly Valve closed until the Hop Bong has been attached.

1. Remove the lid of the Hop Bong by undoing the 2" Tri Clover clamp

2. Add the required dry hop to the Hop Bong

3. Replace the lid on the Hop Bong and secure the 2" Tri-Clover clamp

4. Set your regulator to between 5-10psi and connect the gas ball lock disconnect to the Carbonation Cap on the Hop Bong

For more information and detailed instructions for the Hop Bong, please refer to this video

The is the perfect accessory for the FermZilla range! Unlike stainless fermenters, the FermZilla is made of transparent PET. PET is easy to clean, sanitary and also transparent to WiFi signals, making the use of a network capable floating hydrometer such as the RAPT Pill very simple. Using the RAPT Pill connected to your home network (or to another RAPT device such as a via Bluetooth) you can get near real time gravity and temperature readings from directly inside the FermZilla! This unlocks powerful and easy fermentation and temperature control and is a highly recommended upgrade.

More more information please refer to this video

The is the most capable Fermentation Chamber on the market. It was designed from the ground up to hold 2 x 30L FermZilla All Rounders, 1 x 27L FermZilla Tri-Conical (with or without Hop Bong) or 1 x FermZilla 60L All Rounder or 55L Tri-Conical. With built in heating and cooling, WiFi and Bluetooth* connectivity and connection and control via the RAPT ecosystem it is the easiest and most advanced method of fermentation control on the market!

*Bluetooth connectivity works only in conjunction with a

For more information, please refer to this video

The FermZilla range can also be used in conjunction with a glycol chiller such as the

You will need to install a for the temperature probe and also a cooling coil such as the . All FermZilla lids have ports marked for drilling in order to fit these accessories. Otherwise, a can also be purchased. These can also be installed in the which enables the use of the Hop Bong in conjunction with a glycol setup.

Due to the shape of the FermZIlla range (the conical shape of the Tri-Conical FermZilla and the rounded base of the All Rounder) you can skip the whirlpool in the kettle and just transfer everything! The hops and trub will simply settle out. You can then use the Collection Container of the Tri-Conical to dump this (if desired). In addition, when transferring under pressure, we are only drawing clear beer from the surface during the process, greatly minimising the amount of solids that can make their way into the keg.

By attaching a ball lock post to the bottom of the Collection Container, you now have a variety of removable options at your fingertips.

You can connect a KL21821 sanitised duo-Bronco / duo-Picnic Party Tap mounted to a KL24235 6.35mm to allow to take hydrometer samples. Simply slip some 10mm hose over the end of the tap and you now have a simple bottling gun!

Just make sure the FermZilla is elevated so that gravity can carry the beer down to the bottle. You may need to remove some of the trub and yeast sediment before using this method to get clear beer. Crash chilling after fermentation will make the trub compact faster.