All Grain Recipe Kit - American Wheat Beer - Wheat It! - KB18577
Last updated
Last updated
This is a brilliantly simple witbier kit. You can brew it as is and end up with a delicious, thirst quenching quaffer. You can also use it as a base for experimentation - add coriander and orange to the boil like a traditional Belgian Witbeer, or try adding fruit at the end of fermentation. Maybe throw in a dry hop for a bit of zing - the sky is the limit with this baby!
2kg x Pilsner Malt (Pale Malt) - Barrett Burston (AUS) 2kg x Wheat Malt - Barrett Burston (AUS)
First, clean all equipment if not already ready clean.
Refer to the instructions on the label of your no-rinse sanitiser for dosage and usage instructions.
Strike Water
20.75L
Sparge Water
7.3L
Calcium Chloride
0.1g
Epsom
0.2g
Gypsum
0.2g
Mash pH
5.3
Pre-boil Volume
25.9L
Mash Temperature
65°C
Bring your wort to a boil. Set your temperature above 100°c to ensure a constant boil - this will ensure the elements stay on. Keep an eye on the kettle as you raise towards a boil to avoid a messy boil over
Once a rolling boil is reached start your timer.
Add hops as required according to the Boil Schedule. (A 60 minute addition is boiled for 60 minutes, a 10 minute addition is added with 10 minutes left to the end of the boil).
Chilling: Do the following with 10 minutes left of the boil to sanitise the chiller: If using an immersion chiller, insert this into the kettle. If using a counterflow or plate chiller connect them to the kettle pump and begin recirculating.
For whirlpool hops (when required) you will get the best result cooling the wort to around 80°C first.
No Chill: If doing the No-Chill method with a Whirlpool Hop addition, we recommend stirring the kettle until the temperature drops below at least 90°c to minimise additional bitterness extraction. Then transfer to your cube or bladder and allow wort to cool to ambient. If there are no whirlpool hops transfer thew beer as soon as the boil is finished. NOTE: No Chill can impact bitterness levels due to extended time at above isomerisation temperatures. We recommend cutting the boil hop time in half to compensate (so a 60 minute addition becomes 30 minutes, etc)
Chilling: Use your desired chilling method to get the wort close to pitching temperature or a few degrees above ground water temperature and then transfer to a clean and sanitised fermenter.
Boil Time
60 minutes
18g Hallertau Blanc hops
60
30
36g Hallertau Blanc hops
60
30
Ideally, the temperature of the wort should be at pitching temp before adding the yeast. If the wort is too hot then sit the fermenter in an ice bath or fermentation fridge until the temperature of the wort has cooled down to close to the target pitching temperature.
18°c
Ensure that the lid remains on the fermenter as much as possible and the thermometer is sanitised prior to each measurement to avoid contamination of your beer
Add the entire contents of the yeast sachet(s) to your fermenter by gently sprinkling the yeast across the top of the wort
This step is the most important to get great tasting finished beer. Half fill your airlock or blow-off jar with no-rinse sanitiser at the correct dilution.
Raising the temperature at the end of fermentation is known as a diacetyl rest, and is important to ensure full attenuation and to allow the yeast to clean up the off flavours that can be produced as a result of fermentation.
SG-1.025
Day 0-4
18°c
1.025-1.014
Day 4-7
22°c Ramp over 3 days
Until FG Stablises
Until FG Stablises
24°c
Try to maintain the fermentation within the yeast's ideal temperature range until fermentation is nearly complete, at which stage the fermenter can be moved somewhere warmer for the diacetyl rest.
18°c
24°c
Once fermentation is done, it is time to transfer your finished beer! Ideally, cold crashing at -1°C for 3 days will give the best results before transferring. To determine that fermentation has finished, check the gravity over three consecutive days. If it is stable across three consecutive days then fermentation is done and the beer can be safely transferred to your bottles, cans or keg. Do not transfer until fermentation is complete.
During the packaging process the most important rule is to keep air in the form of oxygen out of the beer. Check out the links for best practice of how to do this depending on method used.
Brewery: or
Cooling Wort:
No Chill:
Fermenter: OR
Temperature Control: OR
Refractometer:
Packaging: , , or
Cleaning Chemicals: OR
Non-Rinse Sanitiser:
Instant Sanitising Spray:
We recommend using for this. All 'cold side' equipment - spoon, fermenter, airlock, bottles etc must also be sanitised. All equipment that will come into contact with your brew post boil must be sanitised with a quality no-rinse sanitiser such as . For sanitising external fittings we recommend
(Optional) If using and , add these with 15 minutes left in the boil.
Use the schedule below as your target temperatures throughout fermentation. If possible adjust the temperature in accordance with gravity changes rather than timed steps for the fastest and healthiest fermentation. A is a great way to make this easy!
Yeast Specific RAPT Profile:
Automated RAPT Ale Yeast Profile - Bluetooth Bonded Pill ONLY:
An easy way to get consistently great beer is to get a cheap/free fridge from Gumtree or FaceBook and make a fermentation chamber paired with a and controlled by a . Otherwise, buy a ready to go for the ultimate in fermentation control. Using a in conjunction with a RAPT Temperature Controller or Fermentation Chamber also unlocks automated profiles which takes all the guesswork out of fermentation control! Note that if you are using a pressure capable fermenter you will get the best results at around 5-12psi. Allow pressure to build up with a spunding valve 24 hours after pitching. For healthy yeast it is important to not apply any pressure for the first 24 hours to avoid inhibiting yeast growth.
Bottling your beer: Use KegLand or KegLand. Please refer to our detailed beginners guide for bottling from a fermenter .
Kegging: We would suggest carbonating and dispensing at 10-12 psi at 2°C for best results. Refer to our detailed beginners guide for kegging from a fermenter .
Canning: To transfer your finished beer into cans we would suggest kegging and carbonating at 11psi at 2°C then transferring to cans. Refer to our detailed beginners guide for canning .
All done! Congratulations on making a delicious beer! Any questions - don't hesitate to contact the friendly staff on
Heat the strike water to the right temperature to achieve the correct mash temperature. Typically this will be 6-8°C higher than the mash temperature, although brewing system, size of grain bill and ambient temperature can have an effect. You can use on Brewfather.
(Optional) Add the (if using) to the strike water. The salt additions are based on an RO water profile. If using another source of water, checkout the water calculator on
Once strike temperature is achieved, add your milled malt and stir thoroughly to ensure there are no dough balls. Check the mash temperature and adjust as needed. NOTE: Also include rice hulls with this brew - 2-3 handfuls for a single batch, 4-6 handfuls for a double batch
Let the grain bed sit for 10 minutes, then begin recirculation.
(Optional) Check mash pH and adjust with acid as required.
Follow the Mash profile in the table below. Towards the end of the mash, preheat sparge water to 75°c.
(Optional) Raise the temperature to 75°C for a Mash Out step and hold for 10 minutes.
Once the mash is complete, lift the malt pipe and allow the wort to drain into the kettle.
Add your sparge water at 75°C to the malt pipe, until you reach pre-boil volume.