Troubleshooting
Series X User Guide | Troubleshooting
Beer is not pouring or not pouring well
Pouring too quickly
Pouring too slowly
Beer may not be fully carbonated. Leave the keg hooked up to CO2 until full carbonation is achieved.
Beer is too foamy/frothy
The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can partially freeze the beer in the line. This creates turbulence in the line which can cause excess foam. Ensure the beer lines are not in contact with the cold plate.
Beer may be too warm. Increase the Set Point of the kegerator or leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled
Beer does not have enough head
(Homebrew) Beer may not have much head. Not all beer styles produce a lot of head - this may be due to the grist of the particular brew or possibly a brewing technique affected the head
No beer comes out of tap
Lines or connections may be blocked. If the beer contains a lot of hop matter there could be hop matter stuck in the liquid dip tube or liquid post of the keg. To fix this, release the pressure in the keg by pulling on the PRV. Remove the liquid post with a socket or spanner. Remove the liquid dip tube and ensure no hop matter is blocking the dip tube or the post
The beer lines may be frozen. If the beer line comes in contact with the cold plate in the fridge it can freeze the beer in the line and partially or completely block the flow. Ensure the lines do not come into contact with the cold plate
CO2 cylinder may be empty. If there is insufficient CO2 to pressurise the head space of the keg then beer will not pour. Replace or refill the CO2 cylinder if empty
Beer is too warm
Keg may not be cold enough. Leave the keg in the kegerator until it is fully chilled. This can take up to 24 hours (for example) with a room temperature 50L keg
Font not cool enough. Direct the Font Fan tubing to the top of the font. Cut the Font Fan tubing to the correct length. Cut the tubing at a 45° angle to ensure it remains unobstructed. Ensure the fan is turned on
Gas Issues & Gas Leaks
CO2 Cylinder is empty
Cylinder may be used up. It takes approx 6g of CO2 to dispense 1L of beer at normal serving pressure. Thus, a 2.6kg CO2 cylinder will dispense approx. 8 x 50L kegs. More CO2 will be used if also carbonating the kegs. Refill the CO2 cylinder when empty
Kegerator cooling issues
Kegerator not cooling to set point temperature
Insufficient clearance. A minimum of 100mm clearance is required on each side of the kegerator to ensure adequate heat dissipation for the condensers. Move the kegerator into open space to improve cooling efficiency
Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
Door left open/not closed properly. If the door is not properly closed or misaligned the kegerator may not cool adequately. Ensure the door is closed and aligned properly
Hot environment. If you are in a very hot environment remove the font tube from the font tower and instead direct it into the kegerator to improve air flow throughout the fridge. This is because of ‘heat ingress’ into the system
Kegerator is too cold
General Troubleshooting
Sides of kegerator are extremely warm
This is normal. The heat generated during refrigerant cooling is radiated from the left and right hand side of the kegerator. During normal operation these can get quite warm/hot. This is typically more apparent when the kegerator is cooling from ambient (so the compressor will be working harder and for longer). NOTE: It is vital that this unit has a minimum of 100mm clearance on each side for adequate cooling performance
Cannot adjust Set Point Temperature
Excessive noise from fan
Ice build up. If there is visible ice build up there is likely also ice in the fan housing. The fan lades will hit this when spinning causing excessive noise. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
Black substance under cold plate
This is excess insulation. This is not uncommon in new kegerators after use. Excess foam insulation may drip from behind the cold plate. This is normal and nothing to worry about - simply clean with a damp microfibre cloth.
Loose wiring. It is possible for the lead to the fan to become slightly loose and contact the blades causing noise. Remove the fan housing and reposition the wire to prevent it from contacting the blades
No castor wheel screws
These are pre-installed. The castor wheel screws are installed in the underneath of the kegerator and simply need to be unscrewed with a 5/16" socket or wrench, or Philips driver
Ice build up on cold plate
Moisture or humidity ingress. If the door is left open or the seals are damaged or dirty then ice can build up on the cold plate. If there is visible ice build up on the cold plate this will act as an insulator and prevent the cavity of the kegerator from cooling properly. Defrost the kegerator by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
EE Error
This is an electrical fault. This can be caused by a faulty Temperature Probe (Thermistor) or a loose connection or damaged or faulty connection. Try replacing the Temperature Probe. Inspect the board for loose or damaged connections
Front display flashing
No power to kegerator
The circuit may have tripped. Check that the beaker has not tripped. If it has, remove all other appliances form the circuit, reset the breaker and try again
Water is leaking from kegerator
Melted ice build up. If there is too much water, moisture or humidity ingress in the kegerator, the ice build up can overwhelm the evaporator plate at the rear of the kegerator. Defrost the kegerator (if necessary) by turning it off until the ice has melted. Once defrosted, locate and correct the source of moisture ingress. Note: Do not try to remove the ice physically as this may damage the refrigerant lines and is not covered under warranty
Kegerator Noise
Kegerators are not domestic fridges and thus will make noises that are quite different to a standard domestic fridge. A gurgling or similar noise is quite common, and not considered unusual. The kegerators use a highly efficient refrigerant gas which can sound like gurgling. This is often more noticeable when the fridge is empty or the kegerator is brand new. Any noises are often reduced once the kegerator is filled with kegs due to the large thermal mass of the kegs.
Refrigerant noise is often more noticeable in a new kegerator, as it can take time for the coolant to settle.
To avoid excessive refrigerant noise, it is vital to leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least 24 hours after transit.
In addition, if tipping the kegerator over (to install castors, for example) the kegerator must be tipped towards the right hand side (as seen from the front). Tipping the kegerator towards the inlet side of the compressor will decrease the chance of oil migrating into refrigerant line which can cause cooling and noise issues.
Leave the kegerator upright and undisturbed for at least one hour before switching on after installing castors or tipping the kegerator for any other reason.
Beer Line Length Guide
4mm
1.5 metres – 2 metres
5mm
2 metres – 3 metres
6.35mm
3 metres – 4 metres
How To Fix An Over Carbonated Keg
If your beer is foaming after checking CO2 pressure, beer line length and kegerator temperature, then possibly the beer is over-carbonated. If this is the gas, then the carbonation level of the beer in the keg will need to be reduced in order to get a good pour.
19L Corny Keg
Disconnect the gas line to the keg
Pull the PRV to vent all headspace pressure
Wait a couple of hours and then repeat. DO not reconnect the gas line until the desired carbonation level has dropped
This process can be sped up if the keg is removed from the kegerator and allowed to come to room temperature - CO2 will come out of solution faster at room temperatures. You can also vent the PRV, then close the PRV and shake the keg for 30 seconds, then vent it again. This will help force CO2 out of solution. Please note that this can cause beer or foam to spray from the PRV when venting, so proceed with caution.
Commercial Keg
Commercial kegs such as 20L, 30L or 50L kegs which are connected to the beer and gas lines by a coupler do not have a PRV, so it is a bit trickier to vent excess carbonation.
If the beer is only slightly over carbonated, the easiest way to reduce carbonation is to turn off the CO2 cylinder valve and pour beer as normal. CO2 will come out of solution as the headspace pressure is purged. This will take a while however, depending on the level of over-carbonation.
To speed this up, remove the keg from the kegerator to allow it to come to room temperature. CO2 will come out of solution faster when the beer is warm.
Carbonation Chart
This chart is an easy way to determine the required CO2 pressure to achieve the desired carbonation level. As a general rule, setting the kegerator to 2°C and the reguator to 12psi will suit almost all beer styles
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